JP2010222743A - Tubular knit fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a tubular knit fabric for garments, etc., comprising a jacquard warp knit fabric, and having compatibility between relief expression and color difference expression on both of a front face and a back face of the knit fabric. <P>SOLUTION: The tubular knit fabric has a continuously knitted tubular part having a definite length according to a product pattern by a warp knit texture, the front and back knit fabrics are knit with jacquard textures, at least one of the front and back knit fabrics is knitted by using at least three reeds including a jacquard reed, an elastic yarn is used as a yarn of the jacquard reed among three reeds, textures having lateral swing width varied by jacquard control based on a principal texture are properly combined, and yarns knitted with the remaining reeds are non-elastic yarns and knitted by a double denbigh or a half texture. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2011,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a tubular knitted fabric mainly used for apparel, and more particularly to a tubular knitted fabric capable of satisfying both unevenness expression and color difference expression and a manufacturing method thereof.

  Conventionally, as a tubular knitted fabric by warp knitting used for various types of clothing, etc., a tubular knitted fabric comprising jacquard warp knitted fabrics in which the front and back knitted fabric portions are each knitted by two pieces of jacquard fold The earth is known.

  For example, Patent Document 1 describes a non-sewn fabric for clothing knitted into a cylindrical shape by a double raschel machine with a double jacquard rivet, and Patent Document 2 knitted by a double raschel knitting machine having a jacquard heel. Patent Document 3 describes a knitted fabric for clothing, Patent Document 3 describes a fabric for a non-sewn product knitted into a tubular shape by warp knitting, and Patent Document 4 further describes a clothing product knitted into a tubular shape. The warp knitted fabric is described.

  In these tubular knitted fabrics, it is not considered to make the unevenness expression and the color difference expression compatible on the knitted fabric surface and the back surface, and it is impossible to achieve both.

  That is, in the tubular knitted fabric knitted as described above, the knitted fabric portions on the front and back sides are basically two sheets, and the structure of the other ridges excluding the jacquard ridge structure is based on the chain structure. However, although the surface of the knitted fabric part can express a certain amount of three-dimensional pattern (representation of unevenness) due to changes in the jacquard texture, the degree of unevenness is small, and the expression of color difference (representation of color difference) is not possible. Further, regarding the back side (inner side surface) of the knitted fabric portion, the color difference can be expressed by the different dyeing property of the jacquard cocoon yarn and the other cocoon yarn, but the unevenness cannot be expressed.

JP 2001-164448 A JP 2001-303415 A JP 2004-91971 A Japanese Patent Publication No. 2006-106975

  The present invention relates to a tubular knitted fabric used for apparel and the like made of a jacquard warp knitted fabric, and in particular, a tubular knitted fabric that can achieve both uneven expression and color difference expression on both the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric, and a method for manufacturing the same. Is to provide.

  The present invention that solves the above problems is a tubular knitted fabric in which a cylindrical portion having a predetermined length corresponding to a product pattern is continuously knitted by warp knitting, and the front and back knitting of the tubular knitted fabric Each of the ground portions is knitted with a jacquard organization, and at least one of the front and back knitted fabric portions is knitted using at least three heels including jacquard heels, and the jacquard of at least three heels. The yarn of the card kite is an elastic yarn, and the elastic yarn is knitted by appropriately combining a structure whose lateral swing width is changed by jacquard control with respect to the basic structure, and the yarn knitted by the remaining kite is inelastic The yarn is characterized in that the inelastic yarn is knitted with a double denbi structure or a half structure.

  In the tubular knitted fabric, the elastic yarn knitted by the jacquard ridge is knitted by appropriately combining a cord structure and a chain structure in which the lateral swing width is changed by jacquard control with a denbi structure as a basic structure. It will be.

  In the tubular knitted fabric, the elastic yarn used for the jacquard heel and the non-elastic yarn used for the other heel are each made of a different dyeing yarn that can be dyed with different dyes.

  The present invention also relates to a method for producing a tubular knitted fabric in which tubular portions corresponding to product patterns are continuously knitted, wherein the tubular knitted fabric is formed by a double raschel knitting machine including a jacquard ridge. The front and back knitted fabric parts are knitted with a jacquard organization, and at least one of the front and back knitted fabric parts is knitted using three heels including jacquard heels, and one of the three heels An elastic yarn is arranged on the jacquard cocoon, and the basic structure is knitted by appropriately combining a structure whose lateral swing width is changed by jacquard control, and an inelastic yarn is arranged on the remaining two cocoons, It is characterized by knitting with a double denbi structure or a half structure.

  In the above-described method for producing a tubular knitted fabric, the elastic yarn disposed on the jacquard ridge is appropriately formed from a dend structure as a basic structure, a chain structure in which the lateral swing width is changed by jacquard control, and a cord structure. It shall be organized in combination.

  As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to provide a tubular knitted fabric that is compatible with unevenness expression and color difference expression on both the knitted fabric surface and the back surface. As a result, as a garment product made of a tubular knitted fabric made of jacquard warp knitted fabric, whichever surface of the knitted fabric portion and the back surface is the product surface, it is unprecedented due to coexistence of unevenness expression and color difference expression. It will have decorativeness and design, and as a result can be used reversibly.

It is the schematic which shows the principal part of the double Russell knitting machine used for manufacture of the cylindrical knitted fabric of this invention. It is the schematic diagram which notched a part of knitting state of the cylindrical knitted fabric of this invention. It is an organization chart of the wrapping state which illustrates jacquard organization (A) (B) (C) used by the present invention. It is a schematic diagram of the convex part formation part (A) and recessed part formation part (B) of the cylindrical knitted fabric of this invention. FIG. 3 is an organization chart of front and back knitted fabric portions of the tubular knitted fabric of Example 1. 5 is a structural diagram of front and back knitted fabric portions of a tubular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1. FIG.

  Next, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

  The tubular knitted fabric 1 of the present invention is provided with a double raschel knitting machine illustrated in FIG. 1, which has two jacquard rods that have two front and rear needle rows and whose lateral movement is controlled by a jacquard device. As shown in FIG. 2, a cylindrical portion 2 having a certain length corresponding to a product pattern such as clothing is continuously knitted repeatedly in the knitting direction with the product pattern as a unit. . FIG. 2 shows an example in which the product pattern of the tubular portion 2 forms a pattern corresponding to clothing such as a shirt, 2a is a front knitted fabric portion that becomes the front body of the product, and 2b is a back that becomes the back body. The knitted fabric part is shown.

  In FIG. 1, N1 and N2 are a large number of front and rear needles arranged in parallel in the knitting machine width direction, T1 and T2 are front and rear needle hooks (trick plates), and L1 to L6 are hooks used for knitting, respectively. Of these, L3 and L4 indicate jacquard jars. The heels L1 to L3 are used for knitting the front knitted fabric portion 1a that becomes the front body of the clothing product, and the heels L4 to L6 are used for knitting the back knitted fabric portion 1b that becomes the back body of the clothing product. Y1 to Y6 indicate knitting yarns that are threaded through the guide portions G1 to G6 of the respective ribs L1 to L6. B1 to B6 indicate beams of the respective knitting yarns.

  In the tubular knitted fabric 1, the front and back knitted fabric portions 2a and 2b are knitted simultaneously by the front and back needle rows, and the front knitted fabric portion 2a and the back knitted fabric portion 2b are further provided with openings for products such as clothing. They are connected and knitted so as to be partially integrated at a portion corresponding to the contour to be excluded, and the tubular portion 2 is knitted so as to form a product pattern such as clothing. The product pattern is knitted repeatedly and continuously in the knitting direction in one row or a plurality of rows in the knitting width direction). Reference numeral 3 in the figure denotes a connecting portion obtained by connecting and knitting the front and back knitted fabric portions 2a and 2b.

  In the knitting of the tubular knitted fabric 1, the front and back knitted fabric portions 2a and 2b are each knitted with a jacquard structure. In the present invention, at least one of the front and back knitted fabric portions 2a and 2b is knitted. Part, that is, the front knitted fabric portion 2a and / or the back knitted fabric portion 2b (both the front and back knitted fabric portions 2a and 2b in the figure) are provided with at least three heel L1 having one jacquard heel L3 or L4. ~ L3 or L4 ~ L6 will be used for knitting, and in particular, one of the three heels L1 to L3 or L4 to L6 is provided with elastic yarn on one jacquard heel L3 or L4. The elastic yarn is knitted by appropriately combining a structure whose lateral swing width is changed by jacquard control with respect to the basic structure of the jacquard ridge.

  For example, as shown in FIG. 3A, the basic structure of the jacquard basket L3 or L4 is changed to a 1 × 1 denbi structure in which stitches are alternately formed with adjacent wales, and the lateral swing width is appropriately changed by jacquard control. The 1 × 2 cord structure that forms a stitch loop over 3 wales as shown in FIG. 5B and the chain structure that forms a stitch loop with the same wale as shown in FIG. Organize.

  In addition, an inelastic yarn is arranged on each of the remaining two ridges (ground) L1, L2 or L5, L6, and the inelastic yarn is a double denby structure or a half structure in which a denby structure and a cord structure are combined. Organize by.

  In the case of the present invention, in order to express the color difference, the elastic yarn used for the jacquard kite L3 or L4 and the non-elastic yarn used for the other kites L1, L2 or L5, L6 are basically: Different dyeing yarns that can be dyed with different dyes are used. For example, as an elastic yarn used for Jacquard L3 or L4, a yarn that is non-dyeing to a cationic dye and that can be dyed with an acid dye, such as a yarn in which a nylon yarn is covered with a polyurethane elastic yarn or the like In addition, as the inelastic yarn of the ridge L1, L2 or L5, L6, using a cationic dyeable yarn that is non-dyeing to the acidic dye and that can be dyed with a cationic dye, Knit as above.

  The present invention is knitted as described above, and an elastic yarn jacquard structure made up of jacquard reeds L3 or L4, and a double denbi of inelastic yarn made up of two other reeds (ground) L1, L2 or L5, L6. The cylindrical knitted fabric 1 obtained by combining the structure or the half structure is, for example, one in which the uneven expression and the color difference expression are compatible on both the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric portions 2a and 2b on the knitting. Become.

  That is, the jacquard structure of the elastic yarn is formed into a cord structure or a chain structure by jacquard control with respect to a basic denbi structure, for example, and this is combined with the double denbi structure or half structure of an inelastic yarn, thereby knitting. On the surface of the knitted fabric part on the stand, it is possible to express not only unevenness but also color difference, and on the back side (inside surface) of the knitted fabric part on the knitting, not only color difference expression but also uneven expression. It becomes possible, and both can be achieved.

  The above uneven expression will be described. 4 (A) and 4 (B) are schematic views of a convex portion forming portion and a concave portion forming portion, respectively, in the concavo-convex expression, and the cord structure and chain structure of jacquard yarn (the yarn of Jacquard ridges L3 and L4), The figure of the sinker loop with the structure | tissue of the thread | yarn of the ground structure | tissues other than a jacquard thread | yarn (thread of the heel L1, L2 or L5, L6) is represented. A circle in the figure indicates a stitch forming portion by a knitting needle.

  As shown in FIG. 4 (A), in the convex portion forming portion, the jacquard yarn is under-wrapped between two stitches between courses to form a cord structure extending over 3 wales. Thread L2 or L5 adjacent to the thread is in the opposite direction to the jacquard thread, and other thread L1 or L6 is in the same direction as the jacquard thread (or in the opposite direction as shown in (B)), A double denbi structure is formed between adjacent wales by underwrapping one stitch each. As a result, there are four yarn overlaps between the adjacent wales between the courses, and the direction of the underlap between the jacquard yarn and the yarn of the ground structure adjacent to this (yarn L2 or L5) is It is in the opposite direction. Moreover, since the elastic yarn is used as described above for the jacquard yarn, the jacquard yarn and the yarn of one ground structure are tensioned in the direction in which the knitted fabric is drawn between the wales, The overlap of the yarns in the weft direction (knitting width direction) between the courses is further increased, and the loop density (yarn density) is also increased. Compared to the case, the fabric thickness is larger and higher than a concave portion described later, and convex portions exhibiting a three-dimensional effect are formed on the knitted fabric surface and back surface (sinker loop side). That is, a convex pattern can be expressed by making the organization knitted by the jacquard ridge into a code organization.

  Further, in the recessed portion forming portion, as shown in FIG. 4B, the jacquard yarn has a chain structure that is knitted with the same knitting needle without being underwrapped. In addition, the yarns of the ground structure form a double denbi structure in which each stitch is under-wrapped in the same direction (or in opposite directions as shown in FIG. 5A). As a result, there are two yarn overlaps between adjacent wales between courses, and the fabric thickness is reduced. In particular, since jacquard yarn does not underwrap adjacent wales, even if the jacquard yarn is an elastic yarn, the force that pulls the knitted fabric between the wales is weak, and the overlapping of the knitting yarns Therefore, the yarn density of the knitted fabric becomes sparse compared to the convex portions, and as a result, the fabric thickness becomes thinner than the convex portions, and the surface and the back surface of the knitted fabric portion appear concave. That is, a concave pattern can be expressed by making the structure knitted by the jacquard ridge into a chain structure.

  Furthermore, by forming the structure knitted by the jacquard ridge into a denbi structure, a surface having almost no unevenness is exhibited.

  Therefore, the organization to be knitted by the jacquard ridge is knitted by appropriately combining the chain structure and the cord organization appropriately according to the concavo-convex pattern or pattern pattern to be expressed with respect to the basic denbi structure. This makes it possible to express patterns including various uneven patterns.

  In addition, regarding the color difference expression, different dyes (for the elastic yarn used for the jacquard heel L3 or L4 knitted as described above and the inelastic yarn used for the other heel L1, L2 or L5, L6) For example, dyeing with dyes capable of dyeing elastic yarns after knitting (for example, acid dyes) and dyes capable of dyeing non-elastic yarns using knitting dyes that can be dyed with acid dyes and cationic dyes) For example, by performing post-dyeing with dyeing with a cationic dye, the elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn can be dyed in different colors, thereby expressing a color difference pattern on the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric portion. be able to.

  That is, in the case of the tubular knitted fabric of the present invention, by combining a chain structure, denbi structure, cord structure with jacquard ridges L3 or L4 and a double denby structure or half structure with other ridges L1, L2, L5, L6 For example, in a portion where the jacquard structure is a denbi structure or a cord structure, the other crease structure is mainly exposed on the knitted fabric surface (outer side surface). Also, in the part where the jacquard structure is a chain structure, the knitted fabric surface (outer side) is mainly an elastic thread, and the jacquard structure thread (loop part) Will be exposed.

  On the back side (inner side surface) of the knitted fabric part, when the jacquard structure is a denby structure or cord structure part, the sinker loop of the jacquard yarn is exposed, and at the chain structure part, other ridges are mainly used. The tissue will be exposed.

  Therefore, by differently dyeing as described above by post-dyeing after knitting, it is possible to express the color difference of the pattern on the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric portion.

  In the present invention, the stretchability in the weft direction (knitting width direction) can also be arbitrarily adjusted. That is, when the organization knitted by the jacquard ridge is a cord organization or a denbi organization, the knitted portion is highly stretchable in the weft direction (compared to the portion where the jacquard organization is a chain structure), and In the case where the structure knitted by the jacquard ridge is a chain structure, the knitted part is less stretchable in the weft direction (compared to the cord structure or the denbi structure part). Therefore, by appropriately adjusting and setting the range and position of the tissue by the jacquard jar, elasticity can be given to any part, and the elasticity can be arbitrarily adjusted to give functionality as a clothing product. be able to.

  Furthermore, the fabric strength of the tubular knitted fabric can be increased by using a double denbi structure or a half structure as a structure other than the Jacquard reeds.

[Example 1]
Using a double raschel knitting machine (RDPJ6 / 2N-24E manufactured by KARL MAYER) equipped with a jacquard cocoon, 56T30f raw yarn is used as the cation dyeable yarn for 筬 L1, L6, and cation dyeable for 筬 L2, L5 As the yarn, 84T48f false twisted yarn was used, and for Jacquard hooks L3 and L4, polyurethane elastic yarn 44T covered with 44T34f nylon false twisted yarn was used, and each was passed through as a full set. Like the organization, the heels L1, L6 and L2, L5 each knitted the ground structure of the Denbi organization, and the jacquard heels L3, L4 are the front and back knitted fabrics so as to form a pattern with two structures of the chain knitting and the cord knitting Organized the department. At the same time, part of the front and back knitted fabric portions were connected and knitted by a known method so as to form a cylindrical portion corresponding to the product pattern, thereby obtaining a cylindrical knitted fabric.

  After knitting, both dyeings were carried out by a dyeing process using a black cationic dye and a dyeing process using a red acid dye.

  About the obtained cylindrical knitted fabric, a constant load elongation rate (%) and a constant load elongation recovery rate (%) were measured according to the JIS L1096 B-1 method, and the burst strength (kpa) of the fabric was measured according to JIS L10188. Measured according to the 17.1A method (Murren form method). Moreover, the unevenness | corrugation difference (mm) was measured with the thickness measuring device. At the same time, the color difference expression was evaluated as follows. The results are shown in Table 1.

[Comparative Example 1]
Using the same double raschel knitting machine as in Example 1, without using 筬 L1 and L6, using 84T48f false twisted yarn as cation dyeable yarn for 筬 L2 and L5, and for jacquard 筬 L3 and L4 Uses a polyurethane elastic yarn 44T covered with 44T34f nylon false twisted yarn, each threaded with a full set, and as shown in the structure of FIG. 6, the ridges L2 and L5 are knitted with a chain structure, and The card ridges L3 and L4 knit the front and back knitted fabric portions so as to form a pattern with two structures of a chain knitting and a cord knitting. At the same time, part of the front and back knitted fabric portions were connected and knitted by a known method so as to form a cylindrical portion corresponding to the product pattern, thereby obtaining a cylindrical knitted fabric.

  After knitting, as in Example 1, both dyeings were carried out by a dyeing process using a black cationic dye and a dyeing process using a red acidic dye.

  About the obtained cylindrical knitted fabric, the constant load elongation rate (%), the constant load elongation recovery rate (%), the burst strength (kpa) of the fabric, and the unevenness difference (mm) were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. At the same time, the color difference expression was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.

[Evaluation of color difference expression]
○: The measured pattern can be clearly seen in accordance with this. ×: The color difference is weak and blurred.

  As is apparent from the above results, in the case of Example 1, on the surface of the knitted fabric portion of the tubular knitted fabric, the portions where the jacquard ridges L3 and L4 are chain-knitted are concave, and the color is a yarn having a jacquard texture. Red was mainly expressed. Further, the cord-knitted portions of the jacquard jars L3 and L4 are convex, and the color is expressed in black of the ground texture. On the back side (inner side) of the knitted fabric portion of the tubular knitted fabric, the portion where the jacquard ribs L3 and L4 are chain-knitted is concave and the portion where the cord is knitted is convex. The finished part is black, and the corded part is red. That is, both the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric portion had a large unevenness difference and could express a color difference.

  On the other hand, in the case of Comparative Example 1, the surface of the knitted fabric portion of the tubular knitted fabric has a weak degree of unevenness between the chain knitted portion and the cord knitted portion of the jacquard structure, and can hardly express the color difference. It was not. Also, the back surface (inner surface) of the knitted fabric portion had little color difference but almost no unevenness.

  In the case of Example 1, the burst strength of the fabric is higher than that of Comparative Example 1 in both the chain knitting portion and the cord knitting portion.

  The present invention can be suitably used mainly for clothing such as unsewn clothing and other tubular fiber products.

  DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 ... Cylindrical knitted fabric, 2 ... Cylindrical part, 2a, 2b ... Front / back knitted fabric part, 3 ... Connection part.

Claims (5)

A tubular knitted fabric in which cylindrical portions of a certain length corresponding to a product pattern are continuously knitted by warp knitting, and the front and back knitted fabric portions of the tubular knitted fabric are each knitted with a jacquard structure. And
At least one of the front and back knitted fabric parts is knitted using at least three heels including a jacquard heel, and the jacquard heel yarn of the three heels is an elastic yarn, and the elastic yarn Are knitted by appropriately combining structures whose lateral swing width is changed by jacquard control with respect to the basic structure, and the yarn knitted by the remaining ridges is an inelastic yarn, and the inelastic yarn is a double denbi structure or a half A tubular knitted fabric characterized by being knitted with a tissue.   The elastic yarn knitted by the jacquard ridge is knitted by appropriately combining a chain structure having a denbi structure as a basic structure and a lateral swing width changed by jacquard control and a cord structure. Cylindrical knitted fabric.   The cylindrical knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the elastic yarn used for the jacquard kite and the non-elastic yarn used for the other kite are made of differently dyeable yarns that can be dyed with different dyes. A method for producing a tubular knitted fabric in which tubular portions corresponding to a product pattern are continuously knitted, wherein the front and back knitted fabric portions of the tubular knitted fabric are jaculated by a double raschel knitting machine equipped with a jacquard ridge. Organized by card organization,
At least one of the front and back knitted fabric parts is knitted using three folds including jacquard folds, and elastic yarn is arranged on one jacquard fold of the three folds, and the basic structure A tube characterized by knitting by appropriately combining structures whose lateral swing width has been changed by Jacquard control, and arranging a non-elastic yarn on the remaining two ridges and knitting with a double denbi structure or a half structure A method of manufacturing a knitted fabric.   The cylinder according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarn disposed in the jacquard ridge is knitted by appropriately combining a chain structure having a denvi structure as a basic structure and a lateral swing width changed by jacquard control and a cord structure. A method of manufacturing a knitted fabric.

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