JP2008285790A - Crimped conjugate fiber and method for producing the same, and air permeability-variable woven/knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber and method for producing the woven/knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a crimped conjugate fiber further improved in both moisture-absorbing property and crimpability, and to provide an air permeability-variable woven/knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugate fibers. <P>SOLUTION: The crimped conjugate fiber consists of a conjugate fiber with two components of different moisture-absorbing properties conjugated with each other, having a yarn percentage elongation of ≥20% in a wet condition, and a percentage crimp of 15-35% in a dry condition. The crimped conjugate fiber is obtained by the following step: Conjugate fibers each with the two components of different moisture-absorbing properties conjugated with each other are subjected to crimping to impart the fibers with crimps followed by undergoing alkali reduction to impart the fibers with further crimps so as to effect the percentage crimp. The air permeability-variable woven/knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugate fibers is also provided, which is obtained by the following step: Conjugate fibers each with the two components of different moisture-absorbing properties conjugated with each other are subjected to crimping to impart the fibers with crimps, the resulting crimped conjugate fibers are woven or knitted, followed by subjecting the resultant woven/knitted fabric to alkali reduction, and the crimped conjugated fibers contained therein are then imparted with crimps so as to effect the percentage crimp. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2009,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a crimped composite fiber, an air permeability change woven or knitted fabric containing the crimped composite fiber, and a method for producing the same.

  In recent years, according to dynamic changes in the temperature, humidity, moisture, etc. in the clothes, the breathability in the clothes is reversibly changed, the temperature and humidity in the clothes are controlled, and it is always adjusted to a comfortable state. Many woven and knitted fabrics have been proposed. For example, Patent Document 1 proposes a breathable reversible woven or knitted fabric using a composite fiber in which polyester and polyamide are bonded to a side-by-side type. However, in this polymer combination of composite fibers, since the difference in moisture absorption characteristics is small, the change in air permeability is small, and further improvement is desired.

  Further, as a breathable reversible woven or knitted fabric, for example, in Patent Document 2, using cellulose acetate fiber, in Patent Document 3, using synthetic fiber made of hygroscopic polymer, in Patent Document 4, polyamide The thing using the composite fiber containing is proposed. However, these are mainly aimed at improving the reversibility of the ventilation in the state of the woven or knitted fabric. is there.

JP 2003-41462 A JP 2002-180323 A Japanese Patent No. 10-77544 Japanese Patent No. 6-316813

  The present invention solves such problems in the prior art, and an object of the present invention is to provide a crimped conjugate fiber having further improved moisture absorption characteristics and crimpability, and the crimped conjugate fiber is included. The object is to provide a woven or knitted fabric with variable air permeability.

The first gist of the present invention is a composite fiber in which two kinds of components having different moisture absorption characteristics are joined, and the yarn elongation rate in a wet state is 20% or more, and the crimp rate in a dry state is 15 to 35. % Crimped composite fiber with a crimp rate of%.
The second gist is that the composite fiber joined with two components having different moisture absorption properties is crimped to a crimp rate of 4 to 15%, and then subjected to alkali weight reduction to provide the crimped composite fiber. In the method for producing a crimped composite fiber described above, the crimp rate is 15 to 35%.
The third gist is an air permeability changing woven or knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber.
The fourth gist lies in a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric with air permeability that includes the following steps.
(1) False twisting conditions in which the number of false twists T (t / m) is 11000 / D ^{1/2 to} 35000 / D ^1/2 (D: dtex) to a composite fiber in which two kinds of components having different moisture absorption characteristics are joined (2) Weaving or knitting using the crimped conjugate fiber subjected to the crimping process (3) Alkali weight reduction processing is applied to the woven or knitted fabric, The crimp rate of the crimped composite fiber contained is 15 to 35%.

  According to the present invention, a crimped composite fiber having improved moisture absorption characteristics and crimpability can be provided by performing crimping and alkali weight loss processing on the composite fiber having excellent moisture absorption characteristics. The woven or knitted fabric containing the crimped conjugate fiber is a breathability changing woven or knitted fabric having air permeability changing performance. According to the method of the present invention, the air permeability changing woven or knitted fabric is crimped, woven or knitted. It is possible to obtain the woven or knitted fabric after the weight reduction by alkali treatment.

  The conjugate fiber constituting the crimped conjugate fiber of the present invention is a conjugate fiber in which two kinds of components having different moisture absorption characteristics, that is, a component having low wet heat characteristics and a component having high wet heat characteristics are joined. Here, the hygroscopic property refers to a property of adsorbing and absorbing water vapor on the surface and inside of the fibers constituting the woven or knitted fabric. In the present invention, the two components having different moisture absorption characteristics are preferably a combination having a difference of 3.5 to 10% in the official moisture content (defined by JIS L0105) between the two components. If the difference in the official moisture content is less than 3.5%, it does not have moisture absorption characteristics. If the difference in the official moisture content exceeds 10%, the woven or knitted fabric lacks shape stability.

  Examples of the combination of the two components in the composite fiber include a combination of different polymers such as polyester and polyamide, and a combination of the same type of polymer such as a cellulose ester having a low moisture absorption property and a cellulose ester having a high moisture absorption property. The composite fiber may be obtained by composite spinning into a joint structure using two kinds of components having different moisture absorption characteristics, or a precursor fiber obtained by composite spinning into a joint structure using two kinds of components is post-processed However, it may be obtained by changing to two kinds of components having different moisture absorption characteristics. Moreover, it is preferable for crimping expression that a junction structure is a side-by-side type.

  In the present invention, in particular, two types of cellulose esters having different alkali reactivity are used as a precursor fiber by complex spinning into a joint structure, and the obtained precursor fiber is subjected to alkali weight loss processing to obtain cellulose having a high alkali reactivity. A composite fiber obtained by deesterifying an ester to change it to a component having high moisture absorption properties is preferable.

  Furthermore, the case where a cellulose ester is used will be described using cellulose acetate, which is industrially and generally used as a cellulose ester. Cellulose acetate is a cellulose derivative in which some or all of the hydroxyl groups of cellulose are substituted with acetyl groups, and the theoretical upper limit of substitution is 3.00. Depending on the average degree of substitution, the average degree of substitution is There are various cellulose acetates such as cellulose triacetate of 2.76 or more, cellulose diacetate having an average substitution degree of 2.22 or more and less than 2.60, and cellulose acetate having an average substitution degree of less than 2.22.

  It is conventionally known that cellulose acetate is deacetylated by alkali treatment, and the acetyl group is changed to a hydroxyl group to be celluloseized, and cellulose acetate having a lower average substitution degree becomes easier to deacetylate. Therefore, a cellulose acetate having a low average substitution degree is a cellulose acetate having a high alkali reactivity, and similarly, a cellulose ester having a low average substitution degree can be referred to as a cellulose ester having a high alkali reactivity.

  As described above, the composite fiber preferable in the present invention is a composite fiber that is spun into a joint structure using two types of cellulose esters having different average substitution degrees, and is subjected to alkali treatment on the obtained precursor fiber. This is a composite fiber obtained by deesterifying a cellulose ester having a low average substitution degree, that is, having a high alkali reactivity and converting it into a component having high moisture absorption characteristics. For example, as disclosed in JP-A-7-102419, a precursor fiber production method uses a cellulose triacetate having an average substitution degree of 2.91 and a cellulose diacetate having an average substitution degree of 2.41, and a dry spinning method. Thus, a composite fiber in which cellulose triacetate and cellulose diacetate are joined in a side-by-side manner is used as a precursor fiber.

  Moreover, as shown in JP-A-2004-115933, a cellulose triacetate and a cellulose acetate propionate having a degree of esterification of 1.50 to 3.00 and a cellulose acetate butyrate are combined into a side-by-side type composite fiber, This can also be used as a precursor fiber.

  The composite ratio of the two components in the composite fiber or the precursor fiber is preferably 80:20 to 20:80, more preferably 60:40 to 40:60 in terms of mass ratio. The cross-sectional shape of the composite fiber is not particularly limited, and is selected in consideration of the texture, gloss, and the like of a woven or knitted fabric such as a triangle, a circle, a flat shape, and a Y shape. Furthermore, there are no particular limitations on the single fiber fineness, fineness unevenness, dyeing characteristics and the like of the composite fiber.

  The crimped conjugate fiber of the present invention has a yarn elongation rate of 20% or more, preferably 20% or more and less than 30% in a wet state, and a crimp rate of 15 to 35% in a dry state. In the present invention, the wet state means a state after the sample is immersed in water at a water temperature of 20 ° C. for 1 minute, and the dry state means that the sample is placed in an atmosphere at a room temperature of 20 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65%. The state after standing for 24 hours is said, and the crimp rate is the crimp rate in a dry state unless otherwise specified.

  When the yarn elongation rate is less than 20% in a wet state, when the knitted fabric is humidified, the change in air permeability becomes poor, and the change in temperature and humidity in the clothes due to the woven or knitted fabric is reduced. Dimensional stability when woven or knitted is deteriorated. The crimped conjugate fiber of the present invention preferably has a yarn recovery rate of 70% or more when it is returned from a wet state to a dry state. When the yarn recovery rate is less than 70%, resilience when woven or knitted is reduced, and dimensional stability tends to be deteriorated. Further, if the crimping rate is less than 15%, the feeling of swelling is lacking, and if it exceeds 35%, the passability in the subsequent process is inferior.

  Here, the yarn elongation rate in the wet state is the yarn calculated from the yarn length when a predetermined load (0.59 cN / dtex) is applied in the dry state and the yarn length when the same load is applied in the wet state. The rate of growth. The yarn recovery rate is the yarn return rate calculated from the yarn length when a predetermined load similar to the above is applied in a wet state and the yarn length when the same predetermined load is applied after returning to a dry state. Say.

  The crimped conjugate fiber of the present invention can be produced as follows. That is, the composite fiber joined with two types of components having different moisture absorption characteristics is crimped to a crimp rate of 4 to 15%, and then subjected to an alkali weight loss process to further reduce the crimped composite fiber. It can be obtained by setting the crimp rate to 15 to 35%.

  Crimping is a process that imparts crimp to the fiber to make it bulky, false twisting that continuously twists, heat fixes, and untwists the yarn, pushes the fiber into a narrow box or tube, Once a three-dimensional thread lump is formed, it is sequentially pushed out from the other end, pushed into one thread, pressed into a pair of gears, geared to shape the tooth profile by threading, and once knitted Examples of the knit knitting process include forming a mesh mold and then knitting, but false twisting is preferably used from the viewpoint of cost and versatility.

  In the false twisting process used in the present invention, the false twist feed rate (speed ratio of the supply roller of the supply yarn to the take-off roller in the false twisting machine) is −5% or more for the composite fiber in which two components are joined. If it is less than + 5%, if it is less than -5%, the yarn tension becomes high and fluffing or yarn breakage tends to occur, and if it is + 5% or more, the yarn tension becomes low and the running property of the yarn. Disturbance, yarn breakage, fluff, crimped spots, etc. are likely to occur. Further, the false twisting temperature (heater temperature in the false twisting machine) is preferably set to 100 to 240 ° C. If the temperature is less than 100 ° C., the crimp setting effect is insignificant. Is likely to occur.

In particular, in false twisting, it is necessary to perform false twist conditions (t / m) under false twist conditions of 11000 / D ^{1/2 to} 35000 / D ^1/2 (D: dtex). When the number of false twists (t / m) is less than 11000 / D1 / ² , it is not possible to obtain a sufficient swollen feeling for the false twisted yarn, and when it exceeds 35000 / D1 / ² , fluff and yarn breakage occur frequently. To do. Furthermore, in false twisting, relaxation heat treatment or tension heat treatment may be performed according to the composition of the composite fiber used, and the crimped form is stabilized by the relaxation heat treatment at a relatively low relaxation rate, and the passability in the subsequent process is improved. It becomes good and the orientation is increased by the tension heat treatment, and a uniform false twisted yarn can be obtained.

  In the present invention, the alkali weight reduction processing applied to the composite fiber having a crimp rate of 4 to 15% by crimping is performed in the present invention, in particular, by using two kinds of cellulose esters having different alkali reactivity as the composite fiber to form a composite structure. Therefore, an example of a precursor fiber in which a cellulose ester having a low alkali reactivity and a cellulose ester having a high alkali reactivity are joined will be described below.

  The conditions for alkali weight loss processing are set by the type, concentration, temperature, time, etc. of the alkali agent. For example, the precursor fiber is a precursor fiber in which cellulose triacetate and cellulose diacetate are joined. In this case, when only the cellulose diacetate component is deacetylated to obtain a cellulose component having high moisture absorption characteristics, a 1% by mass aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide is used and treated at a temperature of 60 to 90 ° C. for 15 to 30 minutes.

  In addition, when the precursor fiber is a precursor fiber in which cellulose triacetate having an acetylation degree of 2.9 and cellulose acetate propionate having an esterification degree of 2.5 are joined, only the cellulose triacetate component is deacetylated to absorb moisture. In order to obtain a cellulose component having high characteristics, a 1% by mass aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide is used and treated at a boiling temperature for 30 to 60 minutes. An apparatus used for scouring or dyeing of a filamentous material is used for the alkali weight reduction processing. After the alkali treatment in the alkali weight reduction process, it is preferable to remove excess alkali agent by hot water or hot water treatment. By such alkali weight reduction processing, twisting and crimping appear in the strain of bonding in the fiber of the composite structure.

  The crimped conjugate fiber of the present invention can be a woven or knitted fabric, and the woven or knitted fabric including the crimped conjugate fiber of the present invention has a change in air permeability. The woven or knitted fabric including the crimped composite fiber is determined by the mixed use ratio, the woven structure, and the knitted structure of the crimped composite fiber according to the texture of the target product and the appearance of the product, and is composed only of the crimped composite fiber of the present invention. It may be included, or may be included by knitting or knitting with other fibers. Moreover, the crimped composite fiber of the present invention may be contained in a woven or knitted fabric as a twisted yarn with another fiber. Other fibers mixed with the crimped composite fiber of the present invention include, for example, natural fibers such as koji, hemp, and silk, regenerated fibers such as rayon, and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, and the characteristics of each fiber, For example, a texture such as a glossy feeling, a refreshing feeling, a sharp feeling, a wet feeling, and a reinforcing effect can be given.

The woven or knitted fabric having a change in air permeability of the present invention can be produced as follows. That is, (1) a temporary fiber having a false twist number T (t / m) of 11000 / D ^{1/2 to} 35000 / D ^1/2 (D: dtex) to a composite fiber in which two kinds of components having different moisture absorption characteristics are joined A step of crimping under twisting conditions to make the crimp ratio 4-15%, (2) a step of weaving or knitting using the crimped conjugate fiber subjected to the crimping, (3) a woven or knitted fabric The air permeability change woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained by performing a process of reducing the alkali and setting the crimp rate of the crimped composite fiber to 15 to 35%.

  In the manufacturing method of the air permeability change woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the crimping process is the same as the fiber used, the crimping process is the same as in the manufacturing of the crimped composite fiber, and in the weaving or knitting process, Weaving or knitting using the crimped composite fiber obtained by crimping, although there is no particular limitation on the woven structure, knitting structure, loom, knitting in the weaving or knitting, the air permeability of the present invention Decide in consideration of the application of the changed woven or knitted fabric. In the method for producing a knitted or knitted fabric with air permeability according to the present invention, the alkali weight reducing process is performed in the state of the woven or knitted fabric, particularly in the alkali weight reducing process. The alkali weight reduction process to be applied is performed under the same conditions as in the production of the above-described crimped composite fiber. However, since the object of the alkali weight reduction process is a woven or knitted fabric, dyeing for woven fabric or knitted fabric such as a liquid dyeing machine. It is preferable to use a machine.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. The measurement of each characteristic value in the present invention was based on the following method.

(Yarn elongation rate, Yarn recovery rate)
Using a measuring instrument with a circumference of 1 m, the sample is wound 10 times under a load of 0.01 cN / dtex to make a 10 m cassette. The prepared casserole is subjected to alkali weight reduction for 10 minutes in a 1% by weight aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide, a temperature of 60 to 65 ° C. and a bath ratio of 1: 100, and after drying, treated in hot water at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes. Then, it was left to stand for 24 hours in an atmosphere having a temperature of 20 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65%, followed by natural drying. A load of 0.59 cN / dtex is applied to the dried sample, and the length L0 (cm) after one minute has elapsed is measured as the initial yarn length. Next, the load is removed, and the casserole is immersed in 20 ° C. water for 1 minute to be in a wet state. After excess moisture on the surface is wiped off with a filter paper, a load of 0.59 cN / dtex is applied, and the length L1 (cm) after 1 minute is measured. Furthermore, the casserole is allowed to stand for 24 hours in an atmosphere of room temperature 20 ° C. and relative humidity 65%, and then naturally dried. A load of 0.59 cN / dtex is applied again, and the length L 2 (cm) after 1 minute is measured. To do. From the measured value of each length, the yarn elongation rate and the yarn recovery rate were calculated by the following equations. The average value obtained 5 times was used for the measured value.
Yarn elongation rate (%) = [(L1-L0) / L0] × 100
Yarn recovery rate (%) = [(L1-L2) / (L1-L0)] × 100

(Crimp rate)
Using a measuring instrument with a circumference of 1 m, the sample is wound 10 times under a load of 0.01 cN / dtex to make a 10 m cassette. The prepared casserole was treated in hot water at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes, and then allowed to stand for 24 hours in an atmosphere having a temperature of 20 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65%, followed by natural drying. A load of 1.96 cN / dtex is applied to the dried sample, and the length L1 (cm) after 1 minute is measured. Next, the load is removed, and it is left for 2 minutes in a no-load state. Thereafter, a load of 0.05 cN / dtex was applied, the length L2 (cm) after 1 minute was measured, and the crimp rate was calculated by the following formula. The average value obtained 5 times was used for the measured value.
Crimp rate (%) = [(L1−L2) / L1] × 100

(Air permeability difference)
A woven or knitted fabric was prepared from the sample, and measured with an air permeability tester FX3300 manufactured by Textex Co., Ltd. in an atmosphere of a temperature of 20 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65% in accordance with JIS L1018 general test method (fragile test). The initial air permeability (A) (cm ³ / cm ² / sec) was measured when the moisture content of the woven or knitted fabric was equilibrated in an atmosphere at a temperature of 25 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65%. After weaving the knitted or knitted fabric in water at 20 ° C. for 1 minute and moistening, the re-drying air permeability (B) (cm ³ / cm) when the moisture content is balanced again in an atmosphere at a temperature of 25 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65% cm ² / sec) was measured, and the crimp rate was calculated by the following formula.
Air permeability difference (cm ³ / cm ² / sec) = re-drying air permeability (B) −initial air permeability (A)
If the air permeability difference is 20 or more, the better the air permeability changes, and the greater the air permeability difference, the better the air permeability changing performance.

Example 1
Cellulose acetate composite fiber (110 dtex / 26) obtained by composite spinning of cellulose diacetate having an average degree of substitution of 2.41 and cellulose triacetate having an average degree of substitution of 2.91 to a composite ratio of 50:50 in a side-by-side type by a dry spinning method. Filament (f)) was used as the precursor fiber. For this precursor fiber, a false twister LS-6 type manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd., false twist feed rate -3%, false twist temperature 160 ° C., false twist number 1800 (t / m), tension heat treatment temperature 200 ° C. Then, false twisting was performed under conditions of tension heat treatment feed rate of 0% to prepare false twisted yarn. The crimp rate of the obtained false twisted yarn was 4.5%. A casserole is made from this false twisted yarn, and subjected to alkali weight reduction for 10 minutes in a 1% by weight aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide, a temperature of 60 to 65 ° C., and a bath ratio of 1: 100, dried, and then 90% The hot water treatment for 20 minutes was performed in hot water at 0 ° C. The processed yarn after the alkali weight loss processing had a yarn elongation rate of 24.1%, a yarn recovery rate of 72.9%, and a crimp rate of 25.3%. In addition, for the processed yarn after the alkali weight loss processing, the cross section of the cellulose fiber dyed with a non-dispersed disperse dye was observed, and it was confirmed that only cellulose diacetate with a high reactivity was deesterified and celluloseized. It was done.

(Example 2)
Using the same precursor fiber (110 dtex / 26f) as used in Example 1, false twist feed rate-4%, false twist temperature 160 ° C, false twist number 2200 (t / m), tension heat treatment temperature 160 ° C, tension heat treatment Alkaline weight loss processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that false twisting was performed by applying false twisting under a feed rate of 2.5%. The false twisted yarn after false twisting has a crimp rate of 6.8%, and the processed yarn after alkali weight reduction has a yarn elongation rate of 23.7%, a yarn recovery rate of 77.7%, and a crimp rate of 25. 0.7%. In addition, for the processed yarn after the alkali weight loss processing, the cross section of the cellulose fiber dyed with a non-dispersed disperse dye was observed, and it was confirmed that only cellulose diacetate with a high reactivity was deesterified and celluloseized. It was done.

(Comparative Example 1)
The same precursor fiber as used in Example 1 (110 dtex / 26f) was used, and an alkali weight reduction process was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 without performing false twisting. The crimp rate of the precursor fiber was 0.3%, and the fiber after alkali weight reduction processing had a yarn elongation rate of 15.1%, a yarn recovery rate of 61.6%, and a crimp rate of 27.1%. In addition, regarding the fiber after alkali weight reduction processing, the cellulose fiber was observed by observing the cross section of the fiber dyed with a non-dyed disperse dye, and it was confirmed that only cellulose diacetate having a high reactivity was deesterified and celluloseized. It was.

(Comparative Example 2)
Using the same precursor fiber (110 dtex / 26f) as used in Example 1, false twist feed rate-4%, false twist temperature 160 ° C, false twist number 3500 (t / m), tension heat treatment temperature 160 ° C, tension heat treatment Alkaline weight loss processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that false twisting was performed by applying false twisting under a feed rate of 2.5%. The false twisted yarn after false twisting has a crimp rate of 16.3%, and the processed yarn after alkali weight reduction processing has a yarn elongation rate of 18.9%, a yarn recovery rate of 82.6%, and a crimp rate of 32. 3%. In addition, for the processed yarn after the alkali weight loss processing, the cross section of the cellulose fiber dyed with a non-dispersed disperse dye was observed, and it was confirmed that only cellulose diacetate with a high reactivity was deesterified and celluloseized. It was done.

(Comparative Example 3)
Using the same precursor fiber (110 dtex / 26f) as used in Example 1, false twist feed rate-4%, false twist temperature 160 ° C, false twist number 900 (t / m), tension heat treatment temperature 160 ° C, tension heat treatment Alkaline weight loss processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that false twisting was performed by applying false twisting under a feed rate of 2.5%. The false twisted yarn after false twisting has a crimp rate of 2.5%, and the processed yarn after alkali weight reduction has a yarn elongation rate of 16.2%, a yarn recovery rate of 65.5%, and a crimp rate of 22 3%. In addition, for the processed yarn after the alkali weight loss processing, the cross section of the cellulose fiber dyed with a non-dispersed disperse dye was observed, and it was confirmed that only cellulose diacetate with a high reactivity was deesterified and celluloseized. It was done.

(Example 3)
Using a false twisted yarn having a crimping rate of 6% obtained by false twisting in Example 2, a knitted fabric was created with a 20G single-neck knitting machine, and then the same as in Example 1 The material was subjected to alkali weight loss processing. Thereafter, using a disperse dye, dyeing was performed at a temperature of 120 ° C. for 30 minutes. The obtained dyed knitted fabric had no change in cellulose content in the constituent fibers, had an air permeability difference of 316.3 cm ³ / cm ² / sec, and had an excellent change in air permeability.

(Comparative Example 4)
Using the same precursor fiber (110 dtex / 26f) as used in Example 1 and creating a knitted fabric with a 20G single-knitting machine without performing false twisting, the same as in Example 1, The material was subjected to alkali weight loss processing. Thereafter, staining was performed at 120 ° C. for 30 minutes in the same manner as in Example 3. The obtained dyed knitted fabric was a cellulosic portion of the constituent fibers that was uncolored, had an air permeability difference of 260.4 cm ³ / cm ² / sec, and had a normal air permeability.

Example 4
A pile knitted fabric using a false twisted yarn having a crimp rate of 6% obtained by false twisting in Example 2 as a backing and using a false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate fiber (167 dtex / 30f) as a pile fabric. After creation, the knitted fabric was subjected to alkali weight reduction processing in the same manner as in Example 1. Thereafter, staining was performed at 120 ° C. for 30 minutes in the same manner as in Example 3. The obtained dyed knitted fabric was a cellulosic portion of the constituent fibers of the lining having no coloration, a difference in air permeability of 16.9 cm ³ / cm ² / sec, and a change in air permeability was low.

(Comparative Example 5)
Pile knitting using the same precursor fiber (110 dtex / 26f) as used in Example 1 for the backing without performing false twisting, and false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate fiber (167 dtex / 30f) for the pile After creating the ground, the knitted fabric was subjected to alkali weight reduction processing in the same manner as in Example 1. Thereafter, staining was performed at 120 ° C. for 30 minutes in the same manner as in Example 3. The obtained dyed knitted fabric was a cellulosic portion of the constituent fibers of the lining having no coloration, a difference in air permeability of 7.1 cm ³ / cm ² / sec, and a change in air permeability was low.

  The present invention further improves the moisture absorption characteristics and crimping performance of the crimped composite fiber in the state of the woven or knitted fabric by applying a crimping process to the composite fiber having excellent moisture absorption characteristics and then reducing the alkali after the woven or knitted fabric. Therefore, the knitted or knitted fabric of the present invention has an effect of automatically adjusting the temperature and humidity inside the garment during sweating, particularly innerwear and sportswear such as pants and shirts. It is suitable for apparel use such as.

It is a schematic diagram which shows an example of the process process for obtaining the crimped conjugate fiber of this invention.

Explanation of symbols

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Supply thread 2 Supply roller 3 1st heater 4 False twisting spindle 5 1st take-up roller 6 2nd heater 7 1st take-up roller 8 Winding machine

Claims (7)

  A composite fiber in which two kinds of components having different moisture absorption characteristics are joined, and has a crimp rate of 20% or more when wet and a crimp rate of 15 to 35% when dry. Composite fiber.   The crimped conjugate fiber according to claim 1, wherein a difference in official moisture content between the two components is 3.5 to 10%.   The crimped conjugate fiber according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one of the two components is a cellulose ester.   After crimping the composite fiber bonded with two components having different moisture absorption characteristics to a crimp rate of 4 to 15%, alkali reduction is applied to reduce the crimp rate of the crimped composite fiber. The method for producing a crimped composite fiber according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the content is 15 to 35%. The scissors according to claim 4, wherein false crimping is performed under crimping conditions of a false twist number (t / m) of 11000 / D ^{1/2 to} 35000 / D ^1/2 (D: dtex). A method for producing a compressed composite fiber.   An air permeability change woven or knitted fabric comprising the crimped conjugate fiber according to any one of claims 1 to 3. The manufacturing method of the air-permeability change woven / knitted fabric which consists of the following processes.
(1) False twisting conditions in which the number of false twists T (t / m) is 11000 / D ^{1/2 to} 35000 / D ^1/2 (D: dtex) to a composite fiber in which two kinds of components having different moisture absorption characteristics are joined (2) Weaving or knitting using the crimped conjugate fiber subjected to the crimping process (3) Alkali weight reduction processing is applied to the woven or knitted fabric, The crimp rate of the crimped composite fiber contained is 15 to 35%.

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