JP2006257588A - Stretchable warp knitted fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a stretchable warp knitted fabric that hardly causes splitting or fraying, even when the knitted fabric is used as a clothing to be sewed after cutting as it is, in addition, can adequately develop the excellent performance, for example, the expanding functions such as stretching and elastic power. <P>SOLUTION: The stretchable warp knitted fabric is obtained by knitting non-elastic yarn and elastic yarn in combination and comprises the knitted fabric A in which the nonelastic yarn 10 is shogged alternately by one wale width every one course and the knitted fabric B in which the elastic yarn 20 is shogged alternately by a plural wale width to form loops on all of the courses. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to an elastic warp knitted fabric and a method for producing the same, and in particular, to a warp knitted fabric excellent in elasticity used for inner garments and the like, and a method for knitting and producing such a warp knitted fabric. ing.

In general, elastic warp knitted fabrics have good elasticity and other knitted fabrics by knitting or inserting elastic yarns such as spandex into basic knitted structures made of inelastic yarns such as synthetic fibers. A characteristic is given.
Patent Document 1 discloses a technique for producing a stretch warp knitted fabric that is lightweight and thin, has an appropriate shape-holding force and flexibility, can be applied to a design that emphasizes a silhouette, and is useful for inner garments. Specifically, in a two-sheet tricot knitted fabric, both the inelastic yarn knitted with the front heel and the elastic yarn knitted with the back heel are knitted with a 01/21 structure (denbi structure) of the opening. .
In ordinary garments, when knitting fabric is cut and sewn, the cut edge of the knitted fabric exposed at the edge of the garment is folded back into a narrow width for edge stitching, Edge processing such as sewing tape is required. Without such edge treatment, the yarn is likely to fray from the cut edge of the knitted fabric or torn when a load is applied. Compared to non-stretchable knitted fabrics that do not use elastic yarns, in particular in the case of stretchable warp knitted fabrics, the ends of the non-elastic yarns protrude from the ends of the knitted fabric and cause fraying or elastic yarns. Is easy to be cut.

On the other hand, as an inner garment, a technique has been proposed in which the fabric is sewn freely. The edge part of the garment does not become thick due to the wrapping or edge tape. From the outside, the shape of the inner garment is inconspicuous from the outside of the outer garment, and the fashion is excellent. The stretchability of the edge part is different from the other parts, and only the edge part does not strongly tighten the body, so it can give a good comfort and create a natural silhouette.
In order to use an elastic warp knitted fabric for apparel for sewing such a fabric by cutting it off, it is required that the above-described fraying and tearing are difficult to occur without performing edge treatment.
In Patent Document 2, a 1 × 1 tricot in which an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn are accompanied, and at least one of the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn is knitted by a closing stitch in each knitting needle. The manufacturing technology of the elastic warp knitted fabric which becomes is proposed.
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-81108 JP 2003-201654 A

When the above-mentioned conventional stretch warp knitted fabrics are sewed to produce various garments, there is a problem in that the garment may be torn or frayed while being worn and used. Sometimes. In particular, in clothing, parts that require large expansion and contraction or parts that are repeatedly expanded and contracted tend to tear or fray during use or washing.
The problem of the present invention is that the above-described conventional stretch warp knitted fabric is further improved, and even when used for apparel that is sewn by sewing and for applications that require high quality performance, tearing and fraying are extremely unlikely to occur. Moreover, it is to provide a stretch warp knitted fabric capable of exhibiting practically sufficiently excellent performances such as stretch and power.

The elastic warp knitted fabric according to the present invention is an elastic warp knitted fabric knitted by combining an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn, and the inelastic yarn is left and right with a swing width of one wale per course. Knitting structure A in which loops are formed in all courses by being alternately swung, and knitting structure B in which loops are formed in all courses by the elastic yarn being alternately swung left and right with a width of a plurality of wales per course. With.
[Non-elastic yarn]
The same yarn material as that of a normal warp knitted fabric can be used.
The non-elastic yarn is not limited to a yarn having no elasticity at all, but may be a yarn having less elasticity or stretchability than the elastic yarn. Specifically, in the present specification, the inelastic yarn means a yarn having an elongation of less than 100%. A yarn having an elongation of less than 60% is preferable.

Natural fibers such as cotton, synthetic fibers such as nylon, semi-synthetic fibers and regenerated fibers can also be used. Any form such as a filament yarn, a spun yarn, and a twisted yarn composed of these fibers may be used.
The thickness of the inelastic yarn can be 16 to 117 dtex, and more preferably 33 to 55 dtex. The non-elastic yarn needs to be thick enough to be covered so that the elastic yarn is not exposed on the surface of the knitted fabric. In addition, if it is as thin and strong as possible, a thin warp knitted fabric can be easily manufactured. If the non-elastic yarn is too thick, the stretchability of the fabric is deteriorated, and the surface texture and feel are also deteriorated. Hot spots are also likely to occur.

In this specification, “hot” is a general term for the phenomenon of fuzz and run that occurs on the cut end face when the elastic warp knitted fabric is cut at the beginning or end of knitting in any direction including the diagonal direction. That means
[Knitting structure A of inelastic yarn]
The knitted structure of the inelastic yarn constitutes the basic structure of the stretch warp knitted fabric.
A non-elastic yarn is provided with a knitting structure A in which a loop is formed in all courses by alternately swinging a non-elastic yarn with a swing width of one wal for each course.
Specifically, a knitting organization generally called a denbi knitting, a 1 × 1 tricot knitting, or the like can be employed. More specifically, a knitted structure having a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 10/12 //, 10/21 //, 01/12 //, and 01/21 // is employed.

Depending on the combination with the knitting structure A of the elastic yarn described later, a difference occurs in the functions and characteristics of the stretch warp knitted fabric.
[Elastic thread]
As the material of the elastic yarn, the same material as the elastic yarn used in a normal stretch warp knitted fabric can be adopted. For example, polyurethane elastic yarn can be used. A highly elastic polyurethane yarn known as spandex can be used. A coated elastic yarn obtained by coating an elastic yarn with an inelastic yarn can also be used.
An elastic yarn having an elongation of 200% or more can be used. Preferably, the elongation is 400% or more.

The thickness of the elastic yarn can be set to 22 to 156 dtex. More preferably, it is 33-78 dtex. The thicker the elastic yarn, the better the stretchability. If the elastic yarn is too thick, the fabric becomes thicker or the appearance quality deteriorates.
[Knitting structure B of elastic yarn]
It has a function of imparting good stretchability to a stretch warp knitted fabric. It also functions to prevent the warp and tear of the elastic warp knitted fabric.
An elastic yarn is provided with a knitting structure B in which a loop is formed in all courses by being alternately swung with a swing width corresponding to a plurality of wales for each course. Here, the swing width for a plurality of wales means a swing width of two wales or more. Normally, it is desirable to set the swing width for 2 wales or 3 wales.

Specifically, a knitting organization generally called a ½ tricot knitting, a ½ code knitting, or the like is employed. More specifically, it has a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 10/23 //, 10/32 //, 01/23 //, and 01/32 //, and the swing direction is the inelastic yarn. Organizational organization that accompanies or goes backwards can be adopted. The knitting structure in which the swinging direction is reverse to the inelastic yarn corresponds to the above-described notation of the knitting structure of the inelastic yarn, 23/10 //, 32/10 //, 23/01 //, and It can also be written as 32/01 //.
[Other organization]
In addition to the specific knitting structures A and B described above, an elastic warp knitted fabric can also be configured by combining another knitting structure using inelastic yarns or elastic yarns. Insert tissue that does not form a loop can also be combined.

For example, it is possible to combine a knitted structure that becomes a pattern or a pattern of inelastic yarn or elastic yarn. If an insertion structure with elastic yarn is added, the expansion and contraction function can be further improved.
[Knitting of elastic warp knitted fabric]
Basically, a knitting device and a knitting method common to ordinary stretch warp knitted fabrics can be applied.
The warp knitting machine used for knitting needs to have two or more ridges. In order to form a pattern or a pattern, or to give a special function, it may be necessary to use a warp knitting machine having three or more wrinkles depending on the knitting structure.
As the warp knitting machine, a tricot knitting machine, a Russell knitting machine, and a knitting machine with a jacquard mechanism can be used.

Usually, the knitting structure A of the inelastic yarn is knitted with a front heel, and the knitting structure B of the elastic yarn is knitted with a back heel. The non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn can be knitted with a reverse heel. In the case of a warp knitting machine having a middle fold, another knitted structure can be knitted with the middle ridge and combined with the knitted structure A of the inelastic yarn and the knitted structure B of the elastic yarn.
The function and characteristics of the elastic warp knitted fabric vary depending on the specific combination of the knitting structure A of inelastic yarn and the knitting structure B of elastic yarn.
Further, by adjusting the yarn supply amount of each yarn, characteristics such as stretchability and design properties can be changed. Normally, the knitting structure A of the inelastic yarn knitted with the front heel is knitted with a yarn supply amount of 700 to 2000 mm / R, and the knitting structure B of the elastic yarn knitted with the back heel is supplied with a yarn supply amount of 800 to 1800 mm. / R (ST. 100%). Here, the yarn feed amount unit [mm / R (ST. 100%)] means the yarn feed amount mm / R when the warp stretch (ST.) Is set to 100%. In the production of an actual warp knitted fabric, when the warp stretch (ST.) Is set to a numerical condition other than 100%, the ST. The yarn feed amount mm / R (ST. 100%) when converted to 100% is set within the specified range.

The knitted warp knitted fabric becomes a stretch warp knitted fabric product through processing steps performed on a normal stretch warp knitted fabric such as a set process, a scouring process, and a dyeing process.
In particular, by the set process, the elastic yarn is bonded by causing thermal fusion at the crossing portion or the stitch portion of the yarns, so that resistance to tearing is increased and burst strength is improved. The processing conditions for the set processing differ depending on the types and characteristics of the inelastic yarn and elastic yarn to be used, but usually heat setting processing at 180 to 195 ° C. is employed.
[Elastic warp knitted fabric]
The produced stretch warp knitted fabric can exhibit excellent stretchability by elastic yarn, that is, elongation and power, and has a good surface due to the combined structure of the knitting structure A of inelastic yarn and the knitting structure B of elastic yarn. It has a texture and is difficult to tear from the cut edge and has an excellent bursting strength.

The fabric thickness of the elastic warp knitted fabric varies depending on the knitting conditions such as the thickness of the yarn to be used, the knitting structure, and the amount of yarn supplied, but can usually be set to 0.3 to 0.6 mm. Preferably, the fabric thickness is 0.4 to 0.5 mm.
As the characteristics of the stretch warp knitted fabric, those excellent in elongation and power are preferable. In particular, it is preferable to have a balance between elongation and power, including both vertical and horizontal directions, preferably even in an oblique direction.
As specific numerical conditions, the longitudinal elongation can be set to 80 to 160% and the power can be set to 400 to 1600 g. The elongation in the horizontal direction can be set to 150 to 370% and the power can be set to 150 to 450 g. More preferably, the elongation in the vertical direction is 90 to 150%, the power is 500 to 1000 g, the elongation in the horizontal direction is 180 to 280%, and the power is 200 to 400 g. Here, elongation and power are measured by conventional methods. Specifically, the elongation is defined by a value measured at the first elongation under a load of 2.25 kgf (44.13 N) in a fabric tensile test. The power is defined by 80% elongation and the value measured at the third elongation.

Properties for evaluating tearing and fraying during use include tear strength and burst strength. Those having high tear strength are preferred, and specifically, the tear strength can be set to 700 CN or more. More preferably, the tear strength is 900 CN. Moreover, a thing with high burst strength is preferable, and it can set to 200 kPa or more of burst strength. More preferably, the burst strength is 300 kPa or more.
In addition, when trying to increase the tear strength or the burst strength, the expansion / contraction function becomes weak. Conversely, when the expansion / contraction function is increased, the tear strength or the burst strength tends to decrease. It is desirable to adjust the yarn to be used and the knitting conditions so that these characteristics can be set in an appropriate range in accordance with the application to be used and the required performance.

[Use]
It can be used for applications in which ordinary stretch warp knitted fabric is used. In particular, it is suitable for various clothing items that require a stretch warp knitted fabric with good appearance and good wearing feeling. Particularly suitable for outer clothing such as sports clothing and inner clothing such as foundation clothing.

The stretch warp knitted fabric according to the present invention combines a specific knitting structure A made of inelastic yarns and a specific knitting structure B made of elastic yarns, and thus has a practically sufficient stretch function such as elongation and power. However, it becomes a stretchable warp knitted fabric having excellent durability in which problems such as tearing and rupture hardly occur at the time of use.
As a result, when used for applications such as inner clothing that sews the fabric, the fit to the body is good and the correction function is effectively demonstrated. However, there is no problem of fraying or tearing from the edge of the garment, and it is possible to provide a garment with excellent durability.

FIG. 1 schematically shows an individual knitting structure of each yarn constituting the elastic warp knitted fabric, and FIG. 2 schematically shows a knitting structure at the time of knitted elastic warp knitting.
In FIG. 1, the knitting structure A of the inelastic yarn 10 knitted by the front ridge [F] of the knitting device is alternately swung left and right with a swing width of one wal for each course, and is closed in all courses. The loop is formed.
The knitting structure B of the elastic yarn 20 knitted by the back heel [B] is alternately swung left and right with a swing width of 2 wales per course to form a closed loop in all courses.
When the knitting structures A and B of both yarns are combined, they are represented by the following symbols.

Knitted structure A = inelastic yarn 10, front ridge [F]: 10/12 //.
Knitting structure B = elastic yarn 20, back ridge [B]: 10/23 //.
In the knitting structure of the entire knitted fabric shown in FIG. 2, the inelastic yarn 10 and the elastic yarn 20 are entangled in a loop at all stitches. The non-elastic yarn 10 and the elastic yarn 20 are accompanied by waving between the wales in the same direction, but the mutual swinging widths are different.
With only the knitting structure A of the non-elastic yarn 10, the entanglement between the non-elastic yarns 10 of adjacent wales is weak, and it is easy to tear between the wales. When the knitting structure of the elastic yarn 10 is accompanied with the same knitting width as the knitting structure A of the non-elastic yarn 10, the knitting structure has the same characteristics, so that the entanglement between the elastic yarns 10 is weak. Like the inelastic yarn 10, it becomes easy to tear between the wales.

On the other hand, in the knitted structure B, the elastic yarn 20 having a large swing width crosses and entangles with the two elastic yarns 10 of adjacent wales, so that the integrity or connection strength between the wales is improved. Thus, the reinforcing effect for preventing tearing can be satisfactorily exhibited.
As for the surface property of the stretchable warp knitted fabric, a fine finish by the knitted structure A of the inelastic yarn 10 and a good surface texture can be obtained. Since the elastic yarn 20 is hidden by the knitting structure A of the non-elastic yarn 10, the elastic yarn 20 is not exposed to the surface too much and the surface texture is not impaired.
Further, when the knitted fabric after the knitting is set, the elastic yarn 20 is fused and integrated with each other at each loop portion or at the intersection of the yarns. The loop of the elastic yarn 20 is fixed, and the loop of the inelastic yarn 10 with which the elastic yarn 20 is entangled is also fixed. Even if the loop portion is fixed, the elastic yarn 20 can exhibit good stretchability between the loops. As a result, an expansion / contraction function with appropriate elongation and power can be exhibited. Even if the expansion and contraction is repeated, the knitting form does not collapse. If each loop is in a fixed state, when a tearing force is applied to the elastic warp knitted fabric, it is effectively suppressed that the tear extends beyond the loop.

[Another embodiment]
In the embodiment shown in FIG. 3, the knitting structure of each yarn in the stretch warp knitted fabric is basically the same as that in the above embodiment, but is partially different.
The knitted structure A of the non-elastic yarn 10 is different from the above-described embodiment in that one of the left and right loops is open and the other side is closed.
In the knitting structure B of the elastic yarn 20, the left and right swing directions are opposite to those in the above embodiment. The elastic yarn 20 and the inelastic yarn 10 intersect in opposite directions between the wales.

When the knitting structures A and B of both yarns are combined, they are represented by the following symbols.
Knitted structure A = inelastic yarn 10, front ridge [F]: 10/21 //.
Knitted structure B = elastic yarn 20, back ridge [B]: 23/10 //.
In this way, even if the basic knitting organization is the same, all the loops are not closed, but some loops are combined with the opening, and the knitted stretcher The surface texture of the knitted fabric may change, and there may be differences in properties such as stretchability, tear resistance and burst strength.
According to the use and required performance of the elastic warp knitted fabric, it is possible to select a combination of a closing line and an opening line in each loop, and accompany or reverse.

The stretch warp knitted fabric according to the present invention was manufactured and its performance was evaluated.
As a knitting device, a Raschel machine manufactured by KARL MAYER, type RSE4N3K was used.
[Example 1]
<Thread usage and knitting structure>
Each knitting structure shown in FIG. 1 was knitted using the following yarns to produce a stretch warp knitted fabric shown in FIG.
Front collar [F]: Nylon 66, 44T-34 Bright (Toray Industries, Inc.)
Back bag [B]: Lycra, 44T-127C (manufactured by Operontex)
The yarn feed amount of each yarn is as follows.

[F]: Yarn supply amount 1020 mm / R
[B]: Yarn supply amount 1300 mm / R (ST. 100%)
<Knitting properties>
Elongation: 124% in the vertical direction and 269% in the horizontal direction.
Power: 930 g in the vertical direction and 234 g in the horizontal direction.
Tear strength 1050CN.
Burst strength 372 kPa.
Wrapping and tearing properties: When the knitted fabric is cut in various directions or positions diagonally and vertically, and the presence or absence of fluffing at the cut end and the occurrence of run-out is verified. Had good quality. Even if it was torn by hand from the cut edge, it was not easily torn.

[Example 2]
Each knitted structure shown in FIG. 3 was knitted using the following yarns to produce a stretch warp knitted fabric.
Front collar [F]: Nylon 66, 44T-34 full dull (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.)
Back bag [B]: Lycra, 44T-127C (manufactured by Operontex)
The yarn feed amount of each yarn is as follows.
[F]: Yarn supply amount 1150 mm / R
[B]: Yarn supply amount 1320 mm / R (ST. 100%)
<Knitting properties>
Elongation: 97% in the vertical direction and 205% in the horizontal direction.

Power: 930 g in the vertical direction and 355 g in the horizontal direction.
Tear strength 897CN.
Burst strength 318 kPa.
Fraying property and tearability: good as in Example 1.
[Comparative Example 1]
Each knitted structure shown in FIG. 4 was knitted using the following yarns to produce a stretch warp knitted fabric.
Front collar [F]: Nylon 66, 44T-34 Bright (Toray Industries, Inc.)
Back bag [B]: Lycra, 44T-127C (manufactured by Operontex)
The yarn feed amount of each yarn is as follows.

[F]: Yarn supply amount 1020 mm / R
[B]: Yarn supply amount 710 mm / R (ST. 100%)
<Knitting properties>
Elongation: 157% in the vertical direction and 295% in the horizontal direction.
Power: 249 g in the vertical direction and 141 g in the horizontal direction.
Tear strength 837CN.
Burst strength 288 kPa.
Fraying property and tearing property: As in Examples 1 and 2, it was difficult to cause fraying, but it could be torn by applying a large force by hand.

  The stretch warp knitted fabric of the present invention can be used as a material for inner clothing, for example. It has excellent properties such as expansion and contraction functions and compensation functions required for inner garments. Providing highly fashionable inner garments that do not require fraying or tearing from the edge of the cut, so there is no need to wrap around the edges, the entire body is thin, has a good feeling of wear, and is less noticeable in appearance. Can do.

The knitting | organization organization chart of the elastic warp knitted fabric showing embodiment of this invention Each knitting organization chart knitting the elastic warp knitted fabric of the previous figure Another knitting organization chart of each yarn of the elastic warp knitted fabric as another embodiment Conventional knitting organization chart of each yarn of stretch warp knitted fabric

Explanation of symbols

10 Inelastic thread 20 Elastic thread F Front hook B Back hook

Claims (5)

An elastic warp knitted fabric knitted by combining non-elastic yarn and elastic yarn,
The knitting structure A in which the inelastic yarn is alternately swung left and right with a swing width of one wal for each course to form a loop in all courses;
A stretch warp knitted fabric provided with a knitting structure B in which the elastic yarn is alternately swung left and right with a swing width corresponding to a plurality of wales per course to form a loop in all courses. The inelastic yarn has a thickness of 16 to 117 dtex;
The elastic warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarn has a thickness of 22 to 156 dtex. The knitted structure A of the inelastic yarn has a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 10/12 //, 10/21 //, 01/12 //, and 01/21 //
The knitted structure B of the elastic yarn has a repeating unit selected from the group consisting of 10/23 //, 10/32 //, 01/23 //, and 01/32 //, and the swing direction is the above The elastic warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the elastic warp knitted fabric accompanies or reverses the inelastic yarn. The elongation in the vertical direction is 80 to 160%, the power is 400 to 1600 g,
The elongation in the horizontal direction is 150 to 370% and the power is 150 to 450 g.
Tear strength is 700 CN or more,
The stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which has a burst strength of 200 kPa or more. A method for producing the elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4,
Using a warp knitting machine with two or more wrinkles,
The knitting structure A made of the inelastic yarn is knitted at a yarn feed amount of 700 to 2000 mm / R by a front ridge,
A method for producing a stretch warp knitted fabric in which the knitted structure B made of elastic yarn is knitted with a back yarn by a yarn supply amount of 800 to 1800 mm / R (ST. 100%).

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