JP2003166152A - Elastic warp knitted fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain an elastic warp knitted fabric which is suitably used for inner wears such as foundations and for sports wears such as active wears, swimming wears or leotards, is uniform in all directions, and has good extensibility and recoverability. <P>SOLUTION: This elastic warp knitted fabric obtained by knitting elastic yarns and non-elastic yarns is characterized in that elasticity characteristics in the warp direction, in the weft direction, in the direction of 45° to the warp direction, and in the direction of 45° to the weft direction satisfy the following expression: 1<P+80/P-15≤5 [P+80 is an elongation force (cN) at the third 80% elongation, when the 80% elongation treatment of the knitted fabric are carried out three times; P-15 is a tension force (cN) on the recovery of 15% at the third elongation treatment, when the 80% elongation treatment of the knitted fabric are carried out three times]. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2003,JPO

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to an elastic warp knitted fabric having good stretchability and recoverability and a method for producing the same.

More specifically, the present invention relates to an elastic warp knitted fabric that is suitable for innerwear such as foundations and activewear, sportswear such as swimwear and leotards, and has good stretchability and recoverability in all directions. .

[0003]

2. Description of the Related Art Heretofore, elastic warp knitted fabrics have been used for applications requiring elasticity such as innerwear and sportswear.

Elastic warp knitted fabrics used for innerwear and the like are required to have excellent extensibility and recoverability, and to be functionally improved such that they can be adjusted depending on the wearer's body shape.

Elastic warp knitted fabrics used for sportswear and the like have the following ability to follow the movement of the body, ease of attachment and detachment,
Comfort is required when putting on and taking off.

The elastic warp knitted fabric is characterized in that the stretchability and recovery in the warp direction are higher than those in the transverse direction.

[0007]

When designing and manufacturing innerwear and sportswear, patterning, cutting and sewing are performed with reference to the direction in which the stretchability and recovery of the knit used are high. . However, since the stretchability and recoverability differ depending on the direction of the knitted fabric, there is a problem in that the patterning is restricted, and the amount of the removed parts per piece of the cloth is reduced, and the loss is increased.

Further, in recent years, sportswear is required to have stretchability adapted to a worn portion, and there is an increasing demand for using a knitted fabric having excellent isotropy.

However, it has not been possible to obtain the same knitted fabric in the warp direction, the weft direction and the warp direction or the weft direction and the 45 ° direction in terms of stretchability and recoverability.

An object of the present invention is to provide an elastic warp which is suitable for innerwear such as foundations and activewear, sportswear such as swimwear and leotards, and which has good stretchability and recoverability in all directions. It is to provide a knitted fabric and a manufacturing method thereof.

[0011]

The elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention comprises:
The following means are adopted to solve the above problems.

That is, an elastic warp knitted fabric knitted from an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn, which has a warp direction and a weft direction,
Also, the elastic warp knitted fabric is characterized in that the stretching property in the direction of 45 ° with respect to the warp direction and / or in the direction of 45 ° with respect to the weft direction satisfies the following formula.

1 <P + 80 / P-15 ≦ 5 (where P + 80: elongation force (cN) P- at the third 80% elongation when the knitted fabric is stretched and stretched three times at an elongation rate of 80%. 15: Tensile force (cN) when the knitted fabric is stretched three times at an elongation rate of 80% and recovered to 15% in the third stretch treatment.) The method for producing an elastic warp-knitted fabric of the present invention is In order to solve the above problems, the following means are adopted.

That is, when the elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn are used for knitting, the elastic yarn is overlapped by two needles and knitted through the entire thread, which is a method for producing an elastic warp knitted fabric.

[0015]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention is knitted from an elastic yarn and a non-elastic yarn. As the elastic thread used in the present invention, polyurethane elastic thread, polyether ester elastic thread, polyamide elastic thread, or the like, or
A thread-shaped so-called rubber thread made of natural rubber, synthetic rubber, or semi-synthetic rubber, or an elastic thread obtained by compounding or mixing with other organic synthetic resin body mainly composed of these is preferable, and the thread itself has rubber-like elasticity. Those having are preferred.

The elastic yarn may be either a monofilament or a multifilament.

The elastic yarn may be used as a raw yarn as it is, or may be used as a non-elastic yarn or a processed yarn covered with an elastic yarn.

Polyurethane elastic yarn is particularly preferable as the elastic yarn used in the present invention.

Preferred polyurethane elastic yarns are long-chain diols such as copolyester diols as soft segments, and diphenylmethane as hard segments.
Polyisocyanate elastic yarn mainly containing difunctional isocyanate such as 4,4 diisocyanate and difunctional hydrogen compound as chain extender or polytetramethylene ether glycol as soft segment, diphenylmethane-4,4 diisocyanate as hard segment, chain extension Examples of the agent include polyether elastic yarns containing a low molecular weight difunctional hydrogen compound as a main constituent.

Examples of the polyether-ester elastic yarn include those having polytetramethylene ether glycol as a soft segment and polybutyl terephthalate as a hard segment as main constituent components.

The polyurethane segment of the polyurethane polymer used in the polyurethane elastic yarn which can be used in the present invention has a soft segment (a) such as a long-chain polyether segment, polyester segment or polyether ester segment, isocyanate, and chain extension. And a hard segment (b) which is a relatively short chain segment obtained by reaction with a diamine or a diol as an agent.

As the soft segment (a) of the polyurethane polymer, 1) tetramethylene glycol,
A polyether segment which is a polymer or copolymer obtained from 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, tetrahydrofuran, 3-methyltetrahydrofuran, etc.,
2) ethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol,
Polyester segment obtained from diol such as 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol and dibasic acid such as adipic acid and succinic acid, and 3) poly- (pentane-
1,5-carbonate) diol, poly- (hexane-)
It is preferable to use a polyetherester segment obtained from 1,6-carbonate) diol or the like. Above all, the resistance during elongation is reduced, and the resistance due to guides, needles, etc. is reduced to break the yarn during knitting. From the viewpoint of prevention, it is more preferable to use a copolyether polyol of tetrahydrofuran and 3-alkyltetrahydrofuran. In particular, those using a copolyether polyol having a high degree of polymerization are preferable from the viewpoint of obtaining excellent stretchability.

The polyurethane polymer is prepared by subjecting a prepolymer product obtained by subjecting a hydroxyl-terminated soft segment precursor to a polyaddition reaction with an organic diisocyanate (capping reaction) to chain extension with an amine chain extender or a diol chain extender. Obtainable.

Examples of the organic diisocyanate to be used for the polyurethane polymer include bis- (p-isocyanatophenyl) -methane (hereinafter abbreviated as MDI), tolylene diisocyanate (hereinafter abbreviated as TDI), and bis- (4-.
Isocyanatocyclohexyl) -methane (hereinafter PI
Abbreviated as CM), hexamethylene diisocyanate,
Although 3,3,5-trimethyl-5-methylenecyclohexyl diisocyanate and the like can be used, among them, M
DI is preferred.

As the chain extender, amine chain extenders are preferably used, and for example, diamines such as ethylenediamine, 1,3-cyclohexanediamine and 1,4-cyclohexanediamine are preferably used for forming polyurethane urea. .

The amine chain extender is not limited to only one kind of diamine, and may be composed of plural kinds of amines. Chain terminators can be included in the reaction mixture to help control the final molecular weight of the polyurethaneurea. Generally, a monofunctional compound having active hydrogen, such as diethylamine, can be used as a chain terminator.

The chain extender is not limited to the above amines and may be diols. For example, ethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol,
4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol, 1,2
-Propylene glycol, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,4-cyclohexanediol, 1,4-
Bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, bis (β-
Hydroxyethyl) terephthalate, paraxylylene diol, etc. can be used. The diol chain extender is not limited to only one kind of diol and may be composed of plural kinds of diols. Moreover, you may use together with the compound containing 1 hydroxyl group which reacts with an isocyanate group. In this case, various methods such as a melt polymerization method and a solution polymerization method can be adopted as a method for obtaining such a polyurethane, and the method is not limited.
The polymerization formulation is also not particularly limited, and, for example,
A method of synthesizing polyurethane by simultaneously reacting a polyol, a diisocyanate, and a chain extender composed of a diol can be adopted, and any method may be used.

Further, it is also preferable to add another stabilizer within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.

As the solvent used when the polyurethane polymer is made into a solution, N, N-dimethylacetamide (hereinafter abbreviated as DMAc), dimethylformamide, dimethylsulfoxide, N-methylpyrrolidone and the like can be used. , DMAc is the most commonly used solvent.

The solution concentration of the polyurethane polymer is not particularly limited, but is usually preferably 30% or more and 40% or less (based on the total weight of the solution), and particularly preferably 35% or more and 38% or less in the case of the dry spinning method. .

In the present invention, the method for spinning a polyurethane elastic yarn from a polyurethane polymer is not particularly limited, but for example, in the case of 1) a polyurethane elastic yarn using a diol as a chain extender, a melt spinning method, It is preferable to employ a dry spinning method or a wet spinning method,
Further, in the case of 2) a polyurethane elastic yarn using an amine as a chain extender, it is usually preferable to employ a dry spinning method.

During spinning, for the purpose of reducing the friction between the yarn and the guide of the spinning machine, and preventing electrostatic charge, dimethyl silicone, a part of the methyl group of dimethyl silicone is replaced with another alkyl group, It is also preferable that an oil agent such as a silicone oil such as a modified silicone substituted with a phenyl group or an amino group or an oil such as a mineral oil is applied to the yarn, and the oil agent may not be applied. The elastic yarn obtained may have a circular cross section or a flat cross section.

The fineness of the elastic yarn is 22 decitex or more 1
It is preferably 00 decitex or less.

Next, the non-elastic yarn used in the present invention will be described.

The non-elastic yarn used in the present invention may be either filament yarn or spun yarn.

Specifically, as the filament yarn, a synthetic fiber such as rayon, acetate, polyamide, polyester, acrylic, polypropylene, vinyl chloride or the like, or silk (raw yarn) is preferably used, and the embodiment is a raw yarn or a temporary twisted yarn. Alternatively, it may be a yarn-dyed yarn, or a composite yarn of these.

It is preferable that all of these are stable yarns that are easily twisted.

The spun yarn is a staple made of a synthetic fiber such as cotton, wool, hemp, silk or other natural fiber, rayon, polyamide, polyester, acrylonitrile, polypropylene, vinyl chloride, etc. Any spun yarn may be used.

2 if the inelastic yarn is a filament yarn
The range of 2 to 100 decitex is preferable, and 22 to 55
The range of decitex is more preferable.

The present invention is a warp knitted fabric in which elastic yarns and inelastic yarns are knitted. As the warp knit, one kind of fiber may be knitted, or different kinds of fibers may be knitted.

The structure of the present invention is such that two needles of elastic yarn are overlapped and knitted through the entire thread.

The knitting is preferably performed by a tricot knitting machine, a Raschel knitting machine, or the like.

The elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a stretching property in the warp direction and a stretching property in the weft direction, and a stretching property in the direction of 45 ° to the warp direction or in the direction of 45 ° to the weft direction, or The expansion / contraction characteristics in the direction of 45 ° with respect to the vertical direction and in the direction of 45 ° with respect to the horizontal direction satisfy the following formula.

1 <P + 80 / P-15 ≦ 5 (where P + 80: elongation force (cN) P− at the third 80% elongation when the knitted fabric is stretched and stretched three times at an elongation rate of 80%. 15: Tensile force (cN) when the knitted fabric was stretched 3 times at an elongation ratio of 80% and recovered to 15% in the third stretch treatment. It means the long direction, and the horizontal direction means the width direction of the piece.

When the vertical axis is Y and the horizontal axis is X, the directions of 45 ° with respect to the vertical direction and 45 ° with respect to the horizontal direction are as follows. The directions of + 45 ° and −45 ° with respect to the vertical axis Y are respectively referred to. When viewed only with the horizontal axis, + 45 ° and −45 with respect to the horizontal axis X.
Refers to each direction of °.

In the present invention, if the stretchability does not satisfy the above equation, it is difficult to obtain an elastic warp knitted fabric which is easily stretchable in all directions, retains a good tension and is excellent in recoverability. There is.

The elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention is suitably used for sportswear such as swimwear and leotards, or innerwear such as foundations.

Next, a method for manufacturing the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention will be described.

In the present invention, when knitting, two elastic threads are used.
It is important that the needles overlap and that the needles go all the way through.

The case where a warp knitting machine having two guide bars is used will be specifically described below.

Elastic yarns are supplied to the back bars of the two guide bars and inelastic yarns are supplied to the front bar. When the elastic thread is all through, when one elastic thread is pulled down by two needles at the same time, a sinker is placed between the needles, and the elastic thread is laid on the upper end of the two needles to perform overlapping.

Two needles of the elastic yarn are overlapped with the back bar, and for example, the second stitch structure with closed eyes indicated by 2-4 / 2-0 /, 2-0 / 2-0, or 4-2. / 0
An example is a double stitch structure with open stitches shown by -2 /.

It is preferable that the non-elastic yarns on the front bar are all threaded, for example, 1 shown by 1-2 / 1-0 /.
/ 1 tricot knitting structure (Denbi), 1/2 tricot knitting structure indicated by 2-3 / 1-0 / (plain code),
2-0 / 0-2 / 2-0-0 / 2-4 / 4-2 / 2-4 / or 1-2 / 1-2 / 1-2 / 1-0 / 1-0 / 1-
6 course satin net knitting structure indicated by 0 /, 2-0 /
The power net knitting structure shown by 2-4 / 4-2 / 4-6 / 4-2 / 2-4 / is illustrated.

The present invention will be further described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing a knitting structure of an example of the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention.

Using a warp knitting machine, a nylon thread or the like is supplied to the front bar as a non-elastic thread, and a polyurethane elastic thread which is an elastic thread is supplied to the back bar. In the back bar, the polyurethane elastic thread is fully threaded, and two needles are overlapped to form a closed stitch second stitch structure shown by 2-0 / 2-4 /. In the front bar, nylon thread is 1/1 tricot. It can be organized as a knitting organization (Denbi).

[0056]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

The method for evaluating the expansion / contraction characteristics of the present invention will be described below. [Stretchability] The stretchability of the elastic warp knitted fabric in the present invention was measured by a measuring method according to JIS L1018. (Stretching force and tension of knitted fabric) 1.5 cm × 16.0 c
The test piece of m was sampled in each of the vertical direction, the horizontal direction, and the direction intersecting with the vertical direction at an angle of 45 degrees, and the test piece had an upper grip width of 2.5 cm, a lower grip width of 3.5 cm, and a pulling interval of 10.0 cm. As a result, it was attached to a constant-speed extension type tensile tester, an elongation of 80% was set, extension recovery was repeated 3 times at a speed of 30 ± 2 cm / min, and an extension force (cN) at 80% extension in the third time, And tense force at the time of 15% recovery (c
N) was read and the average of N = 2 was calculated.

[Example 1] Using a Raschel knitting machine (RSE 4N 56GG) manufactured by KARL MAYER, a non-elastic nylon thread (Dupont nylon, type 665D, 44 decitex) was used for the front bar on the back bar. A lycra thread (“Lycra” (registered trademark), type 906B, 83 decitex manufactured by DuPont), which is an elastic thread, is supplied, and the elastic thread is overlapped by two needles to form 1
I underlapped the needle.

Further, the elastic yarns were all threaded (full set). The non-elastic yarn has a 1/1 tricot (denbi) knitting structure and has a second stitch structure shown in FIG. Table 1 shows the expansion / contraction characteristics.

Using the elastic warp-knitted fabric obtained in Example 1, wear was designed by taking the main axis of the pattern in the warp direction of the knit and wear-designed by taking the main axis of the pattern in the weft direction of the knit. The foundation and pattern of the wear are designed for the main axis of the pattern in a direction intersecting with the warp direction or the weft direction of the knit at 45 degrees, and for the wear designed for the main axis of the pattern in a random direction regardless of the direction of the knit. Sew cycling shorts. These foundations and cycling shorts both fit and stretch according to the movement of the body, and even when the fabric is stretched or contracted, it has an appropriate amount of tension, but it does not cause uncomfortable tension or tension. It had excellent elasticity.

[0061]

[Table 1]

[Comparative Example 1] Using the knitting machine used in Example 1, using the same yarn as in Example 1, the non-elastic yarn has a 1/2 tricot knitting structure and the elastic yarn is 1/1 tricot (denbi). ) A half tricot knitting structure shown in FIG. 2 as a structure was knitted.

Comparative Example 2 Using the knitting machine used in Example 1, and using the same yarn as in Example 1, the 6-course satin net knitting structure shown in FIG. 3 was knitted.

Using the elastic warp-knitted fabrics obtained in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, wear was designed by taking the main axis of the pattern in the warp direction of the knit and wear-designing the main axis of the pattern in the weft direction of the knit. For the garments and knitted fabrics with the main axis of the pattern in the warp direction or the direction intersecting with the weft direction at 45 degrees, and for the garment designed with the main axis of the pattern taken in a random direction regardless of the direction of the knit, Foundation and cycling shorts (spats) were sewn. These foundations and cycling shorts are designed with the main axis of the pattern in the warp direction of the knit and are designed to fit the movement of the body and expand and contract to provide uncomfortable bracing despite having moderate tension. It has excellent stretchability without feeling, but the one designed with wear by taking the main axis of the pattern in the weft direction of the knit has an excessive tension and a feeling of tension, and The garment designed with the main axis of the pattern intersecting with the horizontal direction at 45 degrees does not fit the movement of the body, and the fabric is slackened or the tension is insufficient,
I felt a sense of disrespect. That is, Comparative Example 1
The elastic warp-knitted fabrics obtained by (2) and (2) have uneven stretchability in any of the warp direction, the weft direction, and the direction intersecting the warp direction (the weft direction) at 45 degrees. Due to restrictions on how to take it, the loss of fabric increased.

[0065]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, it is easy to stretch in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction and the vertical direction or all the directions intersecting the horizontal direction at 45 degrees, and the tension force is moderately high and high at the time of low elongation. It is possible to provide an elastic warp knitted fabric that has an appropriate stretching force and a tension force that is not too high even when stretched, and that has an excellent restoring force without sagging even when highly stretched. When designing a sewn product, there is no restriction on how to take patterns, and the obtained sewn product also expands and contracts to fit the movements of the body, and even when the fabric is stretched or contracted, it is appropriate. Suitable for innerwear such as foundations and activewear, sportswear such as swimwear, leotards, etc., which have excellent elasticity without unpleasant tension or tension, despite having tension. It is.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing a knitting structure of an example of an elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention.

2 is a schematic view showing a knitting structure of an elastic warp knitted product in Comparative Example 1. FIG.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view showing a knitting structure of an elastic warp knitted product in Comparative Example 2.

Front page continuation (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification code FI theme code (reference) A41D 31/00 502 A41D 31/00 502D 503 503K D04B 21/18 D04B 21/18 F term (reference) 3B011 AA01 AB11 AC17 3B029 HA01 HB00 4L002 AA05 AA06 AB02 AC01 CA01 CA04 EA06 FA02 FA03

Claims (7)

[Claims] 1. An elastic warp knitted fabric composed of elastic yarns and non-elastic yarns, the warp direction and the weft direction, and the direction of 45 ° to the warp direction and / or 45 ° to the weft direction. Elastic warp knitted fabric characterized by stretchability in the direction of the following formula. 1 <P + 80 / P-15 <= 5 (Here, P + 80: Stretching force (cN) at the time of 80% extension of the third time when the knitted fabric is stretched and stretched three times at an extension rate of 80% P-15: Knitted fabric The elastic force (cN) when recovering up to 15% in the third expansion / contraction process when the expansion / contraction process was performed 3 times at an elongation rate of 80%) 2. The elastic warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarns are overlapped by two needles and knitted through the entire thread. 3. The elastic warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarn is a polyurethane elastic yarn. 4. The elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarn is made of a polyurethane elastomer whose polyol component is a copolyether polyol of tetrahydrofuran and 3-alkyltetrahydrofuran. Warp knit. 5. A method for producing an elastic warp knit, wherein when knitting using an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn, the elastic yarn is overlapped by two needles and knitted through the entire yarn. 6. A sportswear comprising the elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4. 7. An innerwear comprising the elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4.