JP4329015B2 - An elastic warp knitted fabric that is lightweight and has excellent stretch characteristics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to an elastic warp knitted fabric that is lightweight and has excellent warp elongation characteristics. More specifically, the present invention relates to an elastic warp knitted fabric excellent in wearing feeling when used for innerwear such as foundation, sportswear and the like.

  Conventionally, as elastic warp knitted fabrics used for foundations, synthetic fiber multifilament yarns knitted on all courses are used as the first cord, elastic yarns composed of the inserted tissue are used as the second cord, and it has excellent hygroscopicity. There is known a back cotton satin net structure in which spun yarns are arranged in the third ridge like cotton yarns. This warp knitted fabric is often used for girdle fabrics and the like because of its moderate power and excellent hygroscopicity. However, although this warp knitted fabric is superior in warp elongation, there is almost no horizontal stretch, so there have been complaints from consumers such as being cramped when worn.

Therefore, a two-spandex lining cotton raschel structure has been developed in which a thin elastic thread is inserted or partially knitted and inserted repeatedly using another ridge in the above-described lining cotton satin net structure. As a result, warp knitted fabrics having excellent warp knitting properties have been developed by allowing two types of spandex to work well in the warp direction and width direction of the fabric (for example, Patent Document 1, Patent Document 1). 2).
JP-A-5-339855 (Claim 1 etc.) JP-A-7-300749 (Claim 1 etc.)

  However, because two types of spandex are used, the basis weight is heavy and thick, and the cost is further increased, so the application is limited. There are problems such as being easy to occur.

  As another method, a back cotton tricot 2 way knitted mainly by a tricot knitting machine, in which an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn are knitted in all courses in a reverse swing, and an elastic yarn is arranged in an insertion structure in a third oscillating machine, Although it is provided, because the elastic yarn is knitted, the fabric is likely to curl and the mixing ratio is high, so only thin elastic yarn can be used, so it is suitable for inners such as shorts, but to some extent like foundation In the field where the correction function is present, the power is not sufficient and it cannot be used.

  An object of the present invention is to provide an elastic light knitted fabric that is lightweight and has excellent stretchability, and has a comfortable fit without feeling cramped or heavy when worn. is there. Another object of the present invention is to provide a production method that can easily make a hygroscopic elastic warp knitted fabric that is lightweight and excellent in the elongation property of the vertical warp.

1. A warp knitted fabric composed of an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn, wherein the inelastic yarn first from the surface forms a knit and an insertion structure, and the knit structure is in a ratio of once every three courses. Yes, the second non-elastic thread from the surface forms a knit structure in all courses, and one type of elastic thread third from the surface is the insertion structure and swings two needles in all courses. insert forming a tissue comprising a made by forming a non-elastic yarn insertion structures in all courses with excellent hygroscopicity from the surface to the fourth, compared to the warp direction elongation rate under 2.25kg load An elastic warp knitted fabric that is light in weight and high in warp knitting, characterized by having a high weft direction of 100% or more.
2. The basis weight is 200 g / m ² or less, the thickness is 0.7 mm or less, the vertical density is 135 courses / 2.54 cm or more and 180 courses / 2.54 cm or less, and the horizontal density is 40 wales / 2.54 cm or more and 55 wales / 2. The elastic warp knitted fabric excellent in extensibility of the vertical warp according to the first aspect, which is 54 cm or less.
3. The elastic warp knitted fabric excellent in extensibility of warp and knitting according to the first or second aspect, wherein the bursting strength is 2.0 kgf or more.
4). A first cloth in which a non-elastic yarn is mixed with a knit and an insertion structure; a second cloth having a structure in which all the courses are knitted; and a third cloth in which one kind of elastic yarn is an insertion structure in all courses. A method for producing an elastic warp knitted fabric in which non-elastic yarns having excellent hygroscopicity are knitted from the 4th ribs made of the inserted tissue in all courses, and the 2nd ribs are loops of 3 courses in the same wale. After making the knitted structure, the non-elastic yarn of the first osseous has formed a knit structure at a rate of once every 3 courses. has one stitch tissue swung in the same direction of the wales, the elastic yarns of the third reed is inelastic yarn of the second reed is shaken two stitches in the same direction in the course that swung wale next, the fourth reed Insert the inelastic yarn with excellent hygroscopicity so that it is unevenly distributed to the back side. Vertically and horizontally method for producing a stretch excellent elastic warp knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that.

  Here, the first weight as used herein refers to a weight disposed on the front side of the knitting machine, that is, on the front side of the fabric, and is disposed from the front side of the knitting machine in the second, third and fourth order. . The first thread from the surface is passed through the first thread, the second thread is threaded through the second thread, the third thread is threaded through the third thread, and the fourth thread is threaded. Means organized through the 4th Osa

  According to the present invention, it is possible to provide an elastic light knitted fabric that is lightweight and has excellent longitudinal stretchability and a method for producing the same. Specifically, it is possible to provide a warp knitted fabric having a comfortable fit without feeling cramped or heavy when worn. In addition, it is possible to provide a production method that can easily make an elastic warp knitted fabric that is lightweight and has excellent vertical and horizontal elongation characteristics.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The elastic yarn referred to in the present invention is preferably an elastic fiber obtained by spinning a polymer composition mainly composed of polyurethane. Examples of the polyurethane include known polyurethanes such as polyether, polyester and polycarbonate. Such polyurethane can be obtained by reacting polyisocyanate, polymer diol, and optionally a low molecular polyfunctional active hydrogen compound. Examples of the polyisocyanate include 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 1,4-phenylene diisocyanate, 2,4-tolylene diisocyanate, 2,6-tolylene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,4-cyclohexane. One kind of diisocyanate, 4,4′-dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate or a mixture thereof can be used. Of these, 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate is preferable. The polymer diol is a substantially linear polymer having hydroxyl groups at both ends and a molecular weight of 600 to 7000, for example, a polyether such as polytetramethylene ether glycol, polypropylene ether glycol, polyethylene ether glycol, polypentamethylene ether glycol. Polyols, copoly (tetramethylene · neopentylene) ether diol, copoly (tetramethylene · 2-methylbutylene) ether diol, copoly (tetramethylene · 2,3-dimethylbutylene) ether diol, copoly (tetramethylene · 2,2- Copolyether polyols containing 2 or more types of alkylene groups having 6 or less carbon atoms such as dimethylbutylene) ether diol, adipic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, mazeline , Malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, suberic acid, dodecanedicarboxylic acid, β-methyladipic acid, hexahydroterephthalic acid and one or a mixture of two or more acids with ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene Polyester polyols or polyether ester diols obtained from one or a mixture of two or more glycols such as glycol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, 1,4-dimethylolcyclohexane Any polyol such as polylactone diol and polycarbonate diol can be used.

  The inelastic yarns referred to in the present invention are synthetic fiber multifilaments represented by polyethylene terephthalate, nylon 6, nylon 66, acrylic and acrylate, chemical fibers represented by rayon and acetate, and natural fibers such as cotton and wool. Means.

  The inelastic yarn excellent in hygroscopicity referred to in the present invention has an official moisture content of 2% or more, preferably 4% or more as shown in the JIS-L1070 standard. For example, cotton, nylon, rayon, promix fiber or modified polyester fiber with improved hydrophilicity.

  In the present invention, the first elastic in which the non-elastic yarn is mixed with the knit and the inserted structure, the second elastic made of the structure knitted in all the courses, and one kind of elastic yarn from the inserted tissue in all the courses. It is desirable that the third cord and the yarn having excellent hygroscopicity are knitted from the fourth cord composed of the inserted tissue in all courses.

  It is not preferable that the first elastic non-elastic yarn is only an insertion structure because the yarn is detached from the knitted fabric and does not become a knitting structure. In addition, if only the knit structure is used, the non-elastic yarn makes a loop in all courses, so the yarn is completely restrained and the fabric stretches less, and a large amount of yarn is required to loop. Since the dough becomes heavy or thick, it is not preferable. Preferably, it is desirable to knit at a rate of once every three courses, but this is not a limitation.

  It is desirable that the second elastic non-elastic yarn is knitted in all courses. The second elastic inelastic yarn is an important position for making the ground texture, and affects the physical properties of the fabric, such as burst strength and tear strength. If the second elastic inelastic yarn is not knitted in all the courses, it is not preferable because a hole is formed in the portion, and the burst strength and tear strength are deteriorated.

  It is desirable that the elastic yarn of the third cord is an insertion tissue in all courses. If the elastic yarn of the third cord is partially knitted or the knit structure is composed of all courses, the elongation of the fabric becomes extremely worse, the amount of yarn used increases, the fabric becomes thicker, and the fabric weight is heavy. Therefore, it is not preferable. Also, curling and the like are likely to occur and the physical properties are not stable, which is not preferable.

  It is preferable that the non-elastic yarn excellent in hygroscopicity of the fourth cord is composed of an inserted tissue in all courses. If the fourth fiber is not excellent in hygroscopicity, for example, when worn as a girdle, sweat is left uncomfortable, which is not preferable. Further, the yarn is not inserted in all courses, and if it has a knit structure, the fabric becomes thicker and heavier, impairing the appearance, and the yarn is constrained, resulting in poor elongation of the fabric.

  In the present invention, it is desirable that the elongation rate under a load of 2.25 kg (1 kgf = 9.8 N) in both vertical and horizontal directions of the dough is 100% or more. More preferably, it is 150% or more. The elongation rate is preferably high to some extent, but is usually 300% or less.

  When the elongation percentage under a load of 2.25 kg in either direction of the fabric is less than 100%, it is not preferable because it feels cramped and uncomfortable when worn as a foundation. In addition, when either one of the horizontal and vertical sides does not extend, for example, when creating a girdle, it is necessary to cut the fabric while changing the direction of the fabric, which is not preferable from the viewpoint of workability.

In the present invention, the basis weight of the fabric is 200 g / m ² or less, the vertical density is 135 courses / 2.54 cm or more and 180 courses / 2.54 cm or less, and the horizontal density is 40 wales / 2.54 cm or more and 55 wales / 2.54 cm or less. It is desirable to be.

When the basis weight exceeds 200 g / m ² , for example, when it is made into a girdle, it becomes too heavy, which is unfavorable when worn. Further, if the thickness of the fabric exceeds 0.7 mm, for example, when worn as a girdle, there is a possibility that the outer ring will sound and the appearance may be impaired, or it may become stiff when worn. More preferably, it is 0.6 mm or less. If the warp density is less than 135 course, the warp elongation becomes too small, and it is not preferable. If it exceeds 180 course / 2.54 cm, the basis weight becomes too heavy, and the number of knitting racks becomes too high. More preferably, it is 141 courses or more and 165 courses or less. If the horizontal density is less than 40 wales, the horizontal elongation will be unfavorable, and if it exceeds 55 wales, the weight per unit area will increase or the fabric width will become narrow, which is not preferable. More preferably, it is 43 wales or more and less than 50 wales.

  The warp knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a bursting strength of 2.0 kgf or more (1 kgf = 9.8 N). When the bursting strength is less than 2.0 kgf, it is not preferable because it is easily broken when worn as a product or when a warp knitted fabric is sewn. More preferably, it is 3.0 kgf or more, and the bursting strength is preferably high, but it is usually 10.0 kgf or less.

  The elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of a first cloth in which inelastic yarns are mixed with a knit and an insertion structure, a second cloth having a structure in which all the courses are knit, and one kind of elastic yarn in all courses. It is desirable that the yarn having excellent hygroscopicity and the fourth warp knitted fabric having the hygroscopic property is an elastic warp knitted fabric composed of the fourth spine having the insert structure in all courses.

  If the elastic yarn of the third cord comes to the front side, the elastic yarn is difficult to be dyed, which is not preferable because the appearance is impaired. Further, if the hygroscopic fiber yarn of the 4th lead comes to the front side, the hygroscopic material is not arranged on the skin side of the product, which is unpleasant at the time of wearing.

  In the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention, the second osseous has a structure in which a loop of 3 courses is formed in the same wale and then a loop of 3 courses is further formed in the adjacent wales, and the inelastic yarn of the 1st ossa Has a structure in which a knit structure is formed once every three courses, and then one stitch is swung to a wale in the same direction as the second rib. The elastic yarn of the third rib is a non-stretchable yarn of the second rib Desirably, the method is a method for producing an elastic warp knitted fabric in which the strip is swung in the same direction on a course swung to the next wale and the hygroscopic inelastic yarn of the fourth rib is inserted so as to be unevenly distributed on the back side. .

  If the number of loops of inelastic yarn in the same wale of the second reed is less than 3 courses, the bursting strength tends to be low and spandex is likely to come off, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the number of courses exceeds 3, the appearance becomes coarse and the mesh tone becomes unpreferable.

  It is desirable that the first elastic non-elastic yarn forms a knit structure at a rate of once every three courses, and is then swung by one needle to the wale in the same direction as the second elastic. It is not preferable to knit in all courses or knit twice in 3 courses because the number of yarn restraints increases and the fabric elongation deteriorates and becomes thick. Further, unless one needle is swung in the same direction as the second rib, it is not preferable because a sufficient wale density contributing to the horizontal elongation cannot be put.

  It is desirable that the elastic thread of the third cord is swayed in the same direction along a course in which the non-stretchable yarn of the second cord is swung to the adjacent wale. If the direction of shaking is reversed, it is not preferable because the fabric elongation deteriorates and the appearance is hindered.

It is desirable to insert the hygroscopic fiber yarn of the fourth cord so that it is unevenly distributed to the back side.
If it is not unevenly distributed to the back side as described above, it is not preferable because sufficient hygroscopicity cannot be obtained at the time of wearing and it is uncomfortable.

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples and comparative examples.

(Elongation)
A test piece having a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm was taken from the knitted elastic elastic warp knitted fabric and attached to an Instron type tensile tester at a tensile interval of 10 cm, and loaded with 1.0 kg, 1.5 kg, and 2.25 kg. The elongation at time was measured. Test specimens were taken in both the warp and warp directions in the warp and transverse directions, and measured respectively.

(Burst strength)
It was measured by JIS L1096 A method (Murren type method).

(Weight)
It was measured by JIS L1096 test method.

(thickness)
It was measured by JIS L1096 test method.

Example 1
Using a 28 gauge 4 piece Russell knitting machine, nylon (33 dtex-12f) bright yarn on the front rib (first rib), nylon 33 dtex-12f bright yarn on the second rib, spandex 155 dtex on the third rib, back rib (first rib) 4 os) cotton 60 count / single yarn covered with nylon 17 dtex, cotton covered 60 count x nylon 17 dtex thread, and the structure is 1 s 22/24/22/22/20/22, 2 s 24/24 / 24/20/20/20, 3rd Osa 66/22/44/00/44/22, 4th Osa organized in 00/22/22/22/00/00 organization. Next, it was post-processed under the conditions of prewetting-presetter (190 ° C. * 40 seconds) -dyeing (liquid flow dyeing 100 ° C. * 45 minutes) -final set (175 ° C. * 40 seconds), and 159 courses / 2.54 cm, 45 wales / A warp knitted fabric of 2.54 cm was obtained. The evaluation results of the obtained warp knitted fabric are shown in Table 1. The obtained warp knitted fabric was a warp knitted fabric in which hygroscopic fibers were arranged on the skin side, which was lightweight and had excellent properties of warp and horizontal elongation.

(Example 2)
Using a 28 gauge 4 piece Russell knitting machine, nylon (44 dtex-12f) bright yarn on the front rib (first rib), nylon 44 dtex-12f bright yarn on the second rib, spandex 155 dtex on the third rib, back rib (first rib) 4 os) cotton 60 count / single yarn covered with nylon 17 dtex, cotton covered 60 count x nylon 17 dtex thread, and the structure is 1 s 22/24/22/22/20/22, 2 s 24/24 / 24/20/20/20, 3rd Osa 66/22/44/00/44/22, 4th Osa organized in 00/22/22/22/00/00 organization. Next, it was post-processed under the conditions of prewetter-presetter (190 ° C. * 40 seconds) -dyeing (liquid flow dyeing 100 ° C. * 45 minutes) -final set (175 ° C. * 40 seconds), 154 courses / 2.54 cm, 47 wales / A warp knitted fabric of 2.54 cm was obtained. The evaluation results of the obtained warp knitted fabric are shown in Table 1. The obtained warp knitted fabric was a warp knitted fabric in which hygroscopic fibers were arranged on the skin side, which was lightweight and had excellent properties of warp and horizontal elongation.

(Comparative Example 1)
Using a 28 gauge 3 piece Russell knitting machine, nylon 44 dtex-12f bright yarn on the front piece (first piece), spandex 155 dtex on the second piece, and cotton 60 count / single piece on the back piece (third piece) Cotton covered 60th count covered with nylon 17dtex x nylon 17dtex yarn used, the first texture 24/24/24/20/20/20, the second texture 66/22/44/00/44/22, the third Osa organized in 00/22/22/22/00/00 organization. Next, it was post-processed under the conditions of prewetting-presetter (190 ° C. * 40 seconds) -dyeing (liquid flow dyeing 100 ° C. * 45 minutes) -final set (175 ° C. * 40 seconds), and 154 courses / 2.54 cm, 40 wales / A warp knitted fabric of 2.54 cm was obtained. The evaluation results of the obtained warp knitted fabric are shown in Table 1. The obtained warp knitted fabric is lightweight but has almost no horizontal stretchability. It became cramped when worn as a product.

(Comparative Example 2)
Using a 28 gauge four piece Russell knitting machine, nylon 33 dtex-12f bright yarn on the front piece (first piece), spandex 44 dtex on the second piece, spandex 155 dtex on the third piece, back piece (fourth piece) Cotton covered 60th cotton / single yarn covered with nylon 17dtex 60x nylon 17dtex yarn used, the structure is 1st 20/20/20/24/24/24, 2nd 22/44/22/66 / 22/44, 3rd Osa 00/44/22 · 66/22/44, 4th Osa organized in 22/00/00/00/22/22 organization. Next, it was post-processed under the conditions of prewetting-presetter (190 ° C. * 40 seconds) -dyeing (liquid flow dyeing 100 ° C. * 45 minutes) -final set (175 ° C. * 40 seconds), 180 courses / 2.54 cm, 48 wales / A warp knitted fabric of 2.54 cm was obtained. The evaluation results of the obtained warp knitted fabric are shown in Table 1. Although the obtained warp knitted fabric had the characteristic which was excellent in the length and width extensibility, the fabric weight was heavy and it became dissatisfied with a feeling of wear.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to provide an elastic warp knitted fabric that is light in weight and has excellent vertical stretch properties and a method for producing the same, and more specifically, according to the present invention, it is worn when used in innerwear such as foundations or sportswear. An elastic warp knitted fabric excellent in feeling and a rational manufacturing method thereof can be provided.

Claims (4)

A warp knitted fabric composed of an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn, wherein the inelastic yarn first from the surface forms a knit and an insertion structure, and the knit structure is in a ratio of once every three courses. Yes, the second non-elastic thread from the surface forms a knit structure in all courses, and one type of elastic thread third from the surface is the insertion structure and swings two needles in all courses. insert forming a tissue comprising a made by forming a non-elastic yarn insertion structures in all courses with excellent hygroscopicity from the surface to the fourth, compared to the warp direction elongation rate under 2.25kg load An elastic warp knitted fabric that is light in weight and high in warp knitting, characterized by having a high weft direction of 100% or more. The basis weight is 200 g / m ² or less, the thickness is 0.7 mm or less, the vertical density is 135 courses / 2.54 cm or more and 180 courses / 2.54 cm or less, and the horizontal density is 40 wales / 2.54 cm or more and 55 wales / 2. The elastic warp knitted fabric excellent in extensibility of the warp sideways according to claim 1, wherein the elastic warp knitted fabric is 54 cm or less.   The elastic warp knitted fabric excellent in extensibility of the vertical warp according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the bursting strength is 2.0 kgf or more. A first cloth in which a non-elastic yarn is mixed with a knit and an insertion structure; a second cloth having a structure in which all the courses are knitted; and a third cloth in which one kind of elastic yarn is an insertion structure in all courses. A method for producing an elastic warp knitted fabric in which non-elastic yarns having excellent hygroscopicity are knitted from the 4th ribs made of the inserted tissue in all courses, and the 2nd ribs are loops of 3 courses in the same wale. After making the knitted structure, the non-elastic yarn of the first osseous has formed a knit structure at a rate of once every 3 courses. has one stitch tissue swung in the same direction of the wales, the elastic yarns of the third reed is inelastic yarn of the second reed is shaken two stitches in the same direction in the course that swung wale next, the fourth reed Insert the inelastic yarn with excellent hygroscopicity so that it is unevenly distributed to the back side. Vertically and horizontally method for producing a stretch excellent elastic warp knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that.