JP2005145945A - Skin function-activating cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To use the fruit components of Morinda citrifolia as a skin function-activating cosmetic composition and also reduce its strange smell which becomes an obstacle against its practical use and further to make sure of the development of its effect. <P>SOLUTION: The subject cosmetic composition is provided by maturing the fruits of M. citrifolia and using a sufficiently fermented filtrate as the skin function-activating cosmetic composition. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

The present invention relates to a skin function-activating cosmetic composition capable of improving the occurrence of skin function deterioration, such as wrinkles and blemishes and skin elasticity, by suppressing hyperkeratosis of the epidermis, tyrosinase, collagenase and the like. is there.

In recent years, the quality of cosmetics in Japan has become excellent due to improvements in composition purity and advances in manufacturing technology. However, there is also a sudden deterioration in the function of the target skin and scalp and hair, and the demand for safe and effective skin function activating cosmetics and their constituent compositions has increased compared to the previous level. Yes. Although skin function deterioration is directly caused by UV stimulation, acceleration of deterioration is often due to disturbance of endocrine balance or increasing stress. The rapid trend toward modernization calls for further increasing the need for skin function activation efforts. By the way, the trend of modernization of life is the improvement of nutrition in daily life (increased active oxygen that impedes skin function), the length of light time in life time, and the chance of contact with others in life time (especially with males) ( (This leads to disruption of hormone balance). (~ "Aging and hormones" by Seiichiro Kawashima, The University of Tokyo Press).

In the prior art, a number of cosmetic compositions have been tried to be incorporated into cosmetics in order to suppress deterioration of skin function, but none of them has yet reached the requirement that it should be effective and safe. . For example, in the clinical report on the hydroquinone and kojic acid pigmentation, which is the most effective in evaluating tyrosinase inhibitory function, in the use of hydroquinone 7% ointment and kojic acid 4% ointment, “each alone requires long-term treatment, and While the withdrawal was incomplete, side effects (user judgment) were 25% and 7.7%, respectively. (NTT West Osaka Hospital, “Pharmaceutical Journal” VOL37, NO.2)

Among those proposed as measures for improving the skin condition, there is a Yaeyama Aoki fruit extract or a pressed product or a pulverized product, but these substances all have a peculiar odor that can be called a bad odor, and its application as a cosmetic composition is However, it has not yet been put into practical use, since it greatly impairs the functionality that cosmetics should have and makes the user himself or herself feel uncomfortable.
JP 2001-199871 A JP 2001-213733 A JP 2001-213752 A JP 2001-213753 A JP 2001-213755 A JP 2001-213758 A JP 2002-121112 A

  The problem to be solved is to reduce the off-flavor raw material odor that impedes the practical use of the Yaeyama Aoki fruit component as a skin function activating cosmetic composition, and to ensure the effect.

  The present invention is characterized by using a liquid obtained by ripening and further fermenting Yaeyama Aoki fruit as a skin function activating cosmetic composition. That is, the invention according to claim 1 relates to a skin function-activating cosmetic composition comprising a fermented liquor ripening fruit actual fermented liquid, and the invention according to claim 2 is that the skin function to be activated is an ability to suppress hyperkeratosis of the epidermis. The present invention relates to a skin function activating cosmetic composition comprising a fermented liquor of Yaeyama Aoki.

The skin function activating cosmetic composition comprising the real fermented liquor of Yaeyama Aoki according to the present invention improves skin hyperkeratinization and suppresses skin wrinkle increase and prevents tyrosinase activation by using the blended cosmetic. It has an excellent effect on skin function activation, such as preventing collagenase activation and helping to maintain skin flexibility.

The Yaeyama Aoki fruit component used in the present invention is a filtrate obtained by sufficiently fermenting the fruits of ripeness. In this form, the Yaeyama Aoki fruit component has a lower molecular weight and a greater function expression than its extract, pulverized product, and pressed product.

  The ripening fruit real fermented liquor used in the present invention is obtained by aging and fermenting the fruit of Morae citrifolia, which is a Rubiaceae plant. That is, the fruit of Yaeyama Aoki is harvested by ripening it to white yellow (pale yellow), washed with normal water (purified water), put in a storage tank and sealed. Continue ripening for about 4-6 weeks and ferment naturally. Thereafter, the tank is opened, the fermentation broth is filtered and sterilized by a known method. (However, a pasteurization method is preferably used.)

  Various components used in ordinary cosmetic quasi-drugs can be blended in the fermented real yam ripening fruits obtained in this way without particular limitation. As various components, waxes, polyhydric alcohols, hydrocarbons, fats and oils, fatty acids, alcohols, esters, amines, amides, metal soaps, gums and water-soluble polymer compounds, surfactants, antioxidants Examples include agents, antiseptics, vitamins, amino acids, organic and inorganic chemicals, herbal extracts and other moisturizers, metal sequestering agents, coloring materials, fragrances, soap bases, and the like. Moreover, there is no limitation in particular in the compounding quantity of these various components to cosmetics etc., What is necessary is just to adjust suitably according to the use of the target cosmetics.

  There is no particular limitation on the blending amount of the real fermented liquor of Yaeyama Aoki, and it may be between 0.1 and 100 (weight)%, but it may be between 1 and 20 (weight)% depending on the intended cosmetic use. Is most preferable.

  The form of use of the fermented liquor fruit fermented fruit according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples include creams, lotions, emulsions, packs, shampoos, rinses, hair tonics, hair restorers, soaps, etc. can do.

Explaining the suppression of hyperkeratinization in the present invention, the hyperkeratinization of the skin is the largest factor that damages so-called beautiful skin and is synonymous with aging of the skin, but the cells made in the epidermal basal layer are keratinized. However, it means that the keratophyte does not progress and accumulates and hardens, deepens the skin groove, and causes dry skin and wrinkles. Hyperkeratinization (hardening) of the epidermal cells prevents the skin moisture from passing through to maintain freshness, delays the excretion of the melanin pigment that has absorbed ultraviolet rays in the epidermal cells, and causes the skin to darken. Also do. Thus, it can be said that suppression of hyperkeratosis is a point of skin function activation.

  Next, tyrosinase inhibition referred to in the present invention is tyrosinase (di-phenol oxidase or catechol oxidase), which is an enzyme in melanocyte granules (melanosomes). That is, it oxidizes tyrosine to produce melanin that absorbs excess light in the skin. Needless to say, overproduction of melanin darkens the color of the skin and leads to the appearance of stains, but the action of tyrosinase is activated not only by the stimulation of ultraviolet rays but also by stress. Increased production of neurotransmitters such as histamine due to stress leads to melanin overproduction through the action of tyrosinase. Needless to say, the recent living environment further accelerates stress.

  Next, with respect to collagenase inhibition according to the present invention, collagenase is a protease that cleaves collagen, which is a connective tissue constituent protein that serves as a bond and support (supports structure) between body tissues and cells. is there. Collagen in the skin creates skin flexibility by weaving skin elastic fibers together with elastin. Collagenase that breaks down collagen is easily activated by deterioration of the living environment, and its activation in the skin is brought about by ultraviolet rays, polluted air, sidestream smoke of tobacco, and the like.

  The skin function activating cosmetic composition of the present invention obtained as described above suppresses hyperkeratinization of the epidermis, tyrosinase, collagenase, etc. Well preventive improvement.

Hereinafter, although the skin function activation cosmetic composition of this invention is demonstrated based on an Example, this invention is not limited to these Examples.
(Example 1) ~ Adjustment of real fermented liquor of Yaeyama Aoki, matured fruit of Yaeyama Aoki (Rubiaceae), thoroughly washed with water, sealed in a 1.5-ton storage tank, sealed and fermented for 6 weeks Let After that, the tank valve is opened and drained while being filtered, and the effluent is pasteurized to obtain a desired fermentation broth.

(Example 2): Preparation of cream-A cream is prepared with the following composition.
Stearic acid 10.0
Cetanol 2.0
Lanolin 1.0
Isopropyl myristate 3.0
Polyethylene glycol monostearate 1.5
Triethanolamine 0.8
Sorbitol 4.0
Paraben 0.1
Yaeyama Aoki maturity fruit fermentation liquid of Example 1 1.0
Fragrance 0.1
Purified water balance <br/> Total 100.0 (% by weight)

(Test Example 1): Test for improvement of hyperkeratosis 12 women (45 to 55 years old) who have confirmed and confirmed themselves that they have dry skin. B divided into two groups, and in both cases, a commercially available fluorescent marker (oil-based) is applied to 1.5 cm square size at the same position inside both forearms, and then re-coated at the same position after 12 hours. From the next day before bedtime, Group A repeatedly applied the cream of Example 2 on the site where the right arm fluorescent marker was applied, washed with water when waking up, and applied at bedtime. In Group B, the cream prepared by removing the fermented liquid of Example 1 from the cream of Example 2 was continuously applied in the same manner as in Group A, and used as a target example. Measure the number of days until the confirmation of disappearance of the right arm fluorescent marker for each left arm ratio. The average number of days ratio in group B 6 persons When the disappearance confirmation days for each person in group A is shortened by 10% or more, this is effective. Somewhat valid, less than that is invalid. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Test Example 2): Tyrosinase Inhibition Test The tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the real fermented liquor (Yamayama Aoki) ripening result (Example 1) was carried out using a method for determining dopachrome by the method of Mr. S-himano. That is, L-Tyrosine (1 mg / 1 ml), tyrosinase (manufactured by Sigma, 1 mg = 4000 U / ml), phosphate buffer solution (pH 6.8, 0.1 M), test solution (hydroquinone solution to 0.1%, 0 .01%, 0.001%, 0.0001%) and distilled water are prepared and subjected to a predetermined operation. The absorbance at 475 nm and 480 nm is measured to create a calibration curve. 1%) at 475 nm, and the tyrosinase activity-inhibiting ability when the standard is 0 is taken as a hydroquinone equivalent amount by a calibration curve.
Results-Tyrosinase activity inhibitory ability of fermentation broth of Example 1> Hydroquinone 0.01% tyrosinase activity inhibitory ability.

(Test Example 3)-The measurement of the collagenase activity inhibitory action of the real fermented liquor of Yaeyama Aoki in Example 1 was carried out by a partial modification of the Wunsch-Heidrich method (Biopharmaceutical Journal, 42, 249 (1998)). That is, the enzyme solution was collagenase N-2 from Streptomyces parvulas sub-sp. citronus (made by Nitta Gelatin) at 0.1 mg / ml, and the substrate solution by pZ-petide (4-phenylazobenzoylcarbonyl-Pro-Leu-Gly-D-Arg.H ₂ O, Bachem feinc-hemikalian AG). 5 mg / ml was prepared using 0.1 Mt-ris buffer (pH 7.1, containing 20 mM Cacl ₂ ).
Add 0.05 ml of enzyme solution and 0.4 ml of substrate solution to 0.06 ml of fermented liquid of Example 1, react at 37 ° C. for 30 minutes, stop the reaction by adding 1 ml of 0.5 mM citric acid solution, and add 5 ml of ethyl acetate. In addition, after extracting and centrifuging, the absorbance “T” of the ethyl acetate layer at 320 nm was measured using ethyl acetate as a control. A blank “B” was obtained using water instead of the enzyme solution, and a control “C” was obtained using water instead of the sample of Example 1.
Collagenase activity inhibition rate (%) = 100 × {1 − (“T” − “B”) / “C” − “B”}. The collagenase activity inhibition rate of the fermentation broth of Example 1 was 79%.

(Example 3) Soybean Aoki ripening fermented liquid of Example 1 2.5
Palm oil fatty acid 18.0
Palm oil fatty acid 20.0
Glycerol 14.0
Potassium hydroxide 5.0
Triethanolamine 25.0
Distilled water balance <br/> Total 100.0 (% by weight)
(Control 1)
The soap made by blending 5.0% by weight of the Yamae Aoki fruit pressurizing solution instead of the fermented real yak Yamaoki fruit of Example 1 in the soap formulation of Example 3.
(Control 2)
A soap made from the soap formulation of Control Example 1 without the Yaeyama Aoki fruit pressurizing solution.

Eleven women aged 17 to 61 years old have the soaps of (Control 2), (Control 1), and (Example 3) as samples and wash each face for 3 days, and wash the face when taking a bath. The condition after use was examined. The results are shown in (Table 2).

Claims (2)

  A skin function-activating cosmetic composition comprising a fermented liquor of Yaeyama Aoki.   The skin function activating cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the skin function to be activated is an epikeratosis suppression function.