JP2003064544A - Blended polyester multifilament yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a spontaneously expanding blended polyester multifilament yarn suitable for woven and knit products such as blouses, suites, pants, jackets and the like in the fields of gentlemen's and women's clothing by solving difference in dyeing with dyes between sheath yarns and core yarns, as, in the conventional spontaneously expanding blended polyester multifilament yarn, the spontaneously expanding sheath yarns are easily dyed as they have low crystallinity, while the shrinking core yarns are difficultly dyed as they have high crystallinity. SOLUTION: The blended polyester multifilament yarn consists of a polyester multifilament (A) having <=20% degree of crystallization (Xρ), >=2.0 decitex monofilament denier, <=0% dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at 160 deg.C dry heat and a polyester multifilament (B) obtained by copolymerizing 5-15 mole% isophthalic acid and having 15-40% dry heat shrinkage at 160 deg.C dry heat.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament mixed yarn for woven and knitting,
More specifically, it is suitable for ladies' thin and medium-weight fabrics such as blouses, suits, pants, etc. that are soft and have excellent bulging feeling, and also have a tight waist, and improve the unevenness in the mixed yarn, and The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament mixed filament yarn which is sufficiently dyed and which is particularly excellent in dyeability in medium and dark colors.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, in order to impart a soft and swelling feeling to a polyester multifilament woven or knitted fabric, one is made of a polyester multifilament that spontaneously expands by heat treatment and the other is made of a polyester multifilament that shrinks by heat treatment. Spontaneous stretched mixed yarn is known. Compared with conventional heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarns, the self-expanding mixed yarns exhibit less difference in yarn length due to less tension of the yarns under the constraint of the fabrics, and the fabrics are excellent in softness and swelling feeling and yet tight. It becomes one that combines the waist.

A polyester multifilament which is melt-spun by a known method is used as the spontaneously extending polyester multifilament. For example, a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a spinning winding speed of 2200 to 3800 m / min is drawn by a twisting machine. Then, a non-contact type or contact type heating device is used to perform relaxation heat treatment to impart the spontaneous elongation ability. On the other hand, as the shrinkable polyester multifilament, a drawn yarn drawn by a drawing machine or a directly drawn yarn by a spin draw method is used.

However, the spontaneously extending polyester multifilament has a low degree of crystal orientation because it is subjected to relaxation heat treatment, the dye is easily dyed in the dyeing process, and conversely, the shrinkable polyester multifilament has a high degree of crystal orientation. The dye is hard to dye. Therefore,
In the case of a woven or knitted fabric, a spontaneously stretched mixed yarn composed of these causes a dyeing difference, which causes unevenness, and there is a problem that a high quality woven or knitted fabric that is difficult to be dyed in a deep color tone cannot be obtained.

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned conventional drawbacks in the spontaneously extending polyester multifilament mixed filament yarn, which is excellent in softness and bulging, yet has a firm elasticity and is A polyester multi-filament blended yarn, which has excellent dyeability in dyeing of core-sheath component and unevenness in the yarn, and is excellent in dyeability of medium to dark colors, and is used in blouses, suits and pants in the field of clothing. An object of the present invention is to provide a polyester multifilament mixed filament yarn that is suitable for women's woven and knitted fabrics and is suitable for spontaneous stretching.

[0006]

That is, the present invention has the following constitution. 1. Crystallinity (Χρ) is 20% or less, single yarn fineness is 2.0
A polyester multifilament mixture comprising a polyester multifilament (A) having a dry heat shrinkage (SHD) of less than 0% at a dry heat of 160 ° C and a polyester multifilament (B) shrinkable by a heat treatment of dry heat of 160 ° C. A polyester multifilament mixed yarn, wherein the polyester multifilament (B) is made of polyester copolymerized with 5 to 15 mol% of isophthalic acid. 2. Dry heat of polyester multifilament (B) 16
The heat shrinkage ratio (SHD) at 0 ° C. is 15 to 40%.

The present description will be described in more detail below. The polyester multifilament (A) of the present invention has a dry heat of 16
The dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at 0 ° C is less than 0%,
Substantially self-expanding. The polyester multifilament (A) can be produced by a usual melt spinning method, and for example, the spinning winding speed is 2200 to 380.
A highly oriented unstretched yarn of 0 m / min may be stretched by a twisting machine and then subjected to a relaxation heat treatment using a non-contact type or contact type heating device to impart a spontaneous stretching ability. Then, when mixed with the shrinkable polyester multifilament (B) described below, a sufficient yarn length difference due to the difference in shrinkage is developed, and a woven or knitted fabric that is soft and excellent in swelling feeling and bulkiness can be obtained. When the dry heat shrinkage (SHD) at dry heat of 160 ° C exceeds 0%, the difference in yarn length is insufficient, and there is no difference from the conventional different shrinkage mixed yarn, and the tension of the yarn under the constraint of the woven fabric. The woven and knitted fabrics cannot be sufficiently soft, and the woven and knitted fabric is excellent in bulging and bulkiness.

The polyester multifilament (A) of the present invention must have a crystallinity (Χρ) of 20% or less, more preferably 15% or less. The polyester multifilament (A) is, for example, a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a spinning winding speed of 2200 to 3800 m / min, drawn by a twisting machine, and then subjected to a relaxation heat treatment using a non-contact type or a contact type heating device. It is possible to obtain a relatively low crystallinity (Χρ), and by suppressing it to 20% or less, when the woven or knitted fabric is dyed for the first time, the exhaustion rate of the dye becomes high, and the medium dark color or black color is developed. The property is improved, and a high-quality woven or knitted fabric can be obtained. Further, the single yarn fineness is preferably 2.0 decitex or more, and if it is less than 2.0 decitex, there is a concern that it may appear whited and a deep shade cannot be obtained.

The term "polyester multifilament" as used in the present invention means polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing terephthalic acid as a carboxylic acid and ethylene glycol as a glycol component. It may be polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing the components. Further, in addition to a matting agent such as titanium oxide and a fine pore forming agent such as kaolinite, an antistatic agent may be added in a small amount. The cross-sectional shape of the polyester multifilament of the present invention may be an ordinary round cross-section, or any shape such as multi-lobed, polygonal, hollow, flat, and other specially-shaped cross-section can be applied.
Further, the total fineness of the polyester multifilament mixed yarn is not particularly limited, but may be appropriately adopted in the range of 50 to 300 decitex in consideration of the use for ladies' clothing. Further, the ratio of the spontaneously extending polyester multifilament (A) and the contracting polyester multifilament (B) is not limited, but is 4
A ratio of 0:60 to 60:40 is a suitable range.

The polyester multifilament (B) that shrinks by heat treatment at dry heat of 160 ° C. must be a polyester filament in which 5 mol% or more and 15 mol% or less of isophthalic acid is copolymerized as the third component. Originally
Since the polyester filament whose acid component is terephthalic acid has high crystallinity, it cannot be said that it is excellent in dyeability. When mixed with a polyester multifilament (A) having a low degree of crystallinity and excellent dyeability, a dyeing difference occurs, which causes flutter in a woven or knitted fabric. Color and black were difficult to be dyed uniformly and it was difficult to make a high-quality woven or knitted fabric. Therefore, by copolymerizing 5 mol% or more and 15 mol% or less of isophthalic acid as a third component among the acid components, crystallization of polyester multifilamen is suppressed, dyeability is improved, and dyeing with low crystallinity is performed. Excellent polyester multifilament (A)
When mixed with, the difference in dyeing and dyeing becomes small, and when it is woven or knitted, the unevenness is improved and it becomes easy to dye deep color tone, especially dark color in the middle, and black, and it should be a high quality woven and knitted fabric. Became possible. If the copolymerization of isophthalic acid as the third component is less than 5 mol%, the crystallization cannot be sufficiently suppressed, so that the dye is difficult to be dyed, and if the copolymerization of isophthalic acid exceeds 15 mol%, in melt spinning. Thread breakage occurs frequently and the operability deteriorates, making it impossible to carry out industrial production.

The polyester multifilament (B) copolymerized with 5 to 15 mol% of isophthalic acid must have a heat shrinkage (SHD) of 15 to 40% at 160 ° C. dry heat. is there. This is so that the polyester multifilament mixed filament yarn containing the polyester multifilament (B) can be used as a medium strong twist yarn in a woven or knitted fabric by using a double twister or the like. Heat shrinkage (SH at 160 ° C dry heat
When D) exceeds 40%, a medium high-twist yarn is twisted in the cylinder by using a double twister, and when the vacuum twist setting is performed, the difference in heat shrinkage ratio of the polyester multifilament (B) between the inner and outer layers of the cylinder is When it is made into a woven or knitted product, it causes problems such as dyeing, weaving defects such as steps, difference in dyeing, uneven width, and rareness. Conversely, if it is less than 15%, the polyester multifilament (B) is 5
Since it is technically difficult to copolymerize isophthalic acid in an amount of not less than 15 mol% and not more than 15 mol%, trying causes a yarn break in the melt spinning and drawing steps of the polyester multifilament (B).

The self-expanding polyester multifilament (A) and the shrinkable polyester multifilament (B) of the present invention must be mixed as a converging means, but they are looped by a known interlace nozzle or a disturbed air flow. , A slack forming Taslan nozzle is used and mixed. When using an interlace nozzle to mix fibers, the number of entanglements is 30 to 70 cores / m
By setting the degree to about, yarn breakage and yarn cracking do not occur in the subsequent process, and interlaced marks do not appear in the case of making a woven or knitted product, and a polyester multi-filament mixed fiber having good handling and quality can be obtained.

The physical property values of the present invention are based on the following measurements. First, the measurement of crystallinity (Χρ) will be described. Crystallinity (ρ) Using a density gradient tube adjusted with an aqueous calcium nitrate solution, at a temperature of 30 ° C ± 0.1 ° C,
The sufficiently defoamed sample was put into a density gradient tube, the position of the sample in the density gradient tube after standing for 16 hours was read from the scale and converted into a specific gravity value, and the crystallinity (Χρ) was calculated by the following formula. . In addition, the average value of the number of times of the test was 5 was used as the measured value. Χρ = [dk (d-da)] / [d (dk-da)] × 100 (%) dk = 1.47 g / cm ³ (density of PET perfect crystal) da = 1.331 g / cm ³ (PET perfect amorphous density) d = density of sample (g / cm ³⁾

Next, the dry heat shrinkage (S
The method of measuring HD) will be described. (SHD) First load 1/10 with tap reel of appropriate frame circumference
Take a cassette wound with [g / decitex] eight times, apply a load of 1/30 [g / decitex] to the cassette, and measure its length L0 [mm]. Then remove the load 1
Immerse the maze in boiling water for 30 minutes while applying a load of / 1000 [g / decitex]. Then, the case is taken out of the boiling water, dried at 60 ° C. for 30 minutes, and then heat-treated in an oven at a dry heat of 160 ° C. under a load of 1/1000 [g / decitex]. After cooling, a load of 1/30 [g / decitex] is applied again and the length L1 [mm] at that time is measured. The dry heat shrinkage (SHD) is calculated by the following formula. SHD [%] = (L0-L1) × 100 / L0

[0015]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but of course the present invention is not limited to the examples.

(Example 1) Polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal resin was used to obtain a polyester multifilament round cross-section undrawn yarn 33 decitex 12 filaments by an ordinary melt spinning method. After being wound up, the stretching ratio is 1.671 using a stretching machine and the stretching temperature is 8
It was drawn at 0 ° C. to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn of 22 filaments of 12 decitex. The undrawn yarn is subjected to relaxation heat treatment 3
The multifilament after the relaxation heat treatment had 3 decitex 12 filaments, and had a crystallinity (Χρ) of 19.3% and a dry heat shrinkage (SHD) of -5.4%. The relaxation heat-treated multifilament 33 decitex 12 filaments and isophthalic acid 10 mol% as a third component were copolymerized with 41 decitex 24 filament ultrahigh-shrink polyester multifilament yarn having a dry heat shrinkage (SHD) of 24%. The fiber is mixed with the degree of entanglement of 50 pieces / m, and is 74
A decitex 36 filament spontaneously stretched polyester multifilament mixed filament yarn was used. S twist 4 in the mixed yarn
00 (T / M) twisted yarn to make warp, weft 1
67 decitex 96 filament SZ twist 1800
Twisting yarn (T / M) was applied and woven into a plain weave having a greige density of 162 warps / inch and weft 70 threads / inch. Next, a normal refining, alkali weight reduction (weight reduction rate: 15%), dyeing (black) dyeing process is applied to obtain a finish density of 186 pieces / inch.
A dyed cloth having 85 lines / inch was obtained. The dyed cloth had a very small difference in dyeing between the self-expanding multifilament and the shrinking multifilament, so that it was a woven fabric with no color tone and a deep tone. In addition, women's blouses, shirts, which have a feeling of softness, swelling, bulkiness, and a firm waist,
The fabric has a completely new texture suitable for pants.

(Comparative Example 1) Polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal resin was used to obtain a polyester multifilament round cross-section undrawn yarn 33 decitex 12 filaments by an ordinary melt spinning method. After being wound up, the stretching ratio is 1.671 using a stretching machine and the stretching temperature is 8
It was drawn at 0 ° C. to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn of 22 filaments of 12 decitex. The undrawn yarn is subjected to relaxation heat treatment 3
The multifilament after the relaxation heat treatment had 3 decitex 12 filaments, and had a crystallinity (Χρ) of 19.3% and a dry heat shrinkage (SHD) of -5.4%. A relaxation-heat treated multifilament, 33 decitex 18 filaments, and a high shrinkage multifilament yarn having an SHD of 18% were mixed at a degree of entanglement of 50 / m to obtain a polyester multifilament mixed yarn of 66 decitex 30 filaments. An S twist of 400 (T / M) was applied to the mixed yarn and used as a warp, and a woven fabric was woven and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a dyed fabric. With respect to the texture of the dyed cloth, as in Example 1, it has an elegant soft feeling without sticking, has a bulky feeling, and has a tight waist, and is suitable for women's blouses, shirts and pants, The fabric has a completely new texture. However, a dyeing difference occurs between the self-expanding multifilament and the contracting multifilament, which is irritated and has a poor depth.

(Example 2) Polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal resin was used to obtain a polyester multifilament uncross-drawn yarn 33 decitex 12 filaments having a round cross section by a usual melt spinning method. After being wound up, the stretching ratio is 1.671 using a stretching machine and the stretching temperature is 8
It was drawn at 0 ° C. to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn of 22 filaments of 12 decitex. The undrawn yarn is subjected to relaxation heat treatment 3
With 3 decitex 12 filaments, the multifilament after the relaxation heat treatment had a crystallinity (Χρ) of 19.3% and a dry heat shrinkage (SHD) of -5.4%. Highly shrinkable polyester multifilament yarn of 48 decitex 48 filaments having a dry heat shrinkage (SHD) of 24%, which is obtained by copolymerizing relaxation-heat-treated bifilament of 33 decitex 12 filaments and 10 mol% of isophthalic acid as a third component. And the fiber is mixed with a degree of entanglement of 50 / m,
A 148 decitex 72 filament self-expanding polyester multifilament blended yarn was used. A SZ twisted 1800 (T / M) twisted yarn was applied to the mixed yarn using a double twister, and twist fixing was performed at 60 ° C. for 40 minutes. After the twist-fixing was performed, the spontaneously stretched polyester multi-filament mixed fiber was used for both the warp and the weft, and woven into a cashmere design having a greige density of 148 warps / inch and 82 wefts / inch. Then, the usual scouring, alkali weight reduction (weight reduction rate: 12%), and dyeing (black) dyeing steps were performed to obtain a dyed cloth having a finishing density of 170 fibers / inch and weft 98 fibers / inch. The dyed cloth had a very small difference in dyeing between the self-expanding multifilament and the shrinking multifilament, so that it was a woven fabric with no deepening and deep color tone. In addition, it had a soft feeling, a bulging feeling, a bulky feeling, and a firm and firm feeling,
Ladies' blouses, shirts, and pants have been made into a completely new woven fabric suitable for black formal.

[0019]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The polyester multifilament mixed filament yarn of the present invention uses a self-expanding polyester multifilament as a sheath yarn, so that it has a soft and swelling feeling and a bulky feeling, and shrinkage obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid as a core yarn. Since the polyester multifilament is used, the difference in dyeing between the filaments of the core-sheath is small. Therefore, the woven fabric composed of the polyester multi-filament mixed yarn of the present invention is free from unevenness, is very dull, and exhibits excellent dyeability, and in particular, it is excellent in color development of dark color and black in the middle, and is soft and swelling feeling. It is possible to obtain a polyester multi-filament mixed fiber which is suitable for ladies' woven fabric having a feeling of bulkiness.

Claims (2)

[Claims] A polyester multifilament (A) having a crystallinity (Χρ) of 20% or less, a single yarn fineness of 2.0 decitex or more, and a dry heat shrinkage (SHD) of less than 0% at a dry heat of 160 ° C. And a polyester multifilament (B) which shrinks by heat treatment at a dry heat of 160 ° C., wherein the polyester multifilament (B) is a polyester obtained by copolymerizing 5 to 15 mol% of isophthalic acid. A polyester multi-filament mixed filament yarn characterized by comprising 2. The heat shrinkage (SHD) of the polyester multifilament (B) at a dry heat of 160 ° C. is 15 to 40.
% Of the polyester multifilament mixed yarn according to claim 1.