JP2003055837A - Polyester fiber and napped fabric using the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a polyester fiber having excellent raising property when producing a napped fabric and suitable for producing the napped fabric excellent in napping property and soft feeling and a napped fabric using the fiber. SOLUTION: This polyester fiber is mainly composed of a polyester and simultaneously satisfies the following characteristics (1): 2%<=ε0.2 <=30%, (2): ISa /ISb >=0.9, and (3): Im/(dtpf)<2> >=450 [wherein ε0.2 is integrated parameter of a structure; ISa is an initial tensile modulus (cN/dtex) after dry heat treatment; ISb is an initial tensile modulus (cN/dtex) before dry heat treatment; Im is a cross sectional secondary moment (μm<4> ); and dtpf is single yarn fineness (dtex)].

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester fiber suitable for producing a napped fabric which has excellent raising properties when producing a napped fabric and which is excellent in fluffiness and softness.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A double-sided raised knitted fabric obtained by raising a single-knit sinker pile knitted fabric consisting of pile yarns and other yarns is used for outer clothing such as jackets. Conventionally, spun yarns such as cotton and acrylic have been widely used for such double-sided brushed knitted fabrics, but in recent years, polyester is often used because of their excellent easy care properties and low cost. It's coming. Further, not only polyester spun yarns but also filaments have come to be used. For example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 62-47983 discloses a method for producing a high bulky double-sided brushed knitted fabric having uniform and long hairs made of polyester filament yarns. Has been done. However, there is a problem with the raising property in the raising process, such as the need to increase the number of times of raising the cloth for obtaining the high bulky property. In addition to the nap property, the nap property of the napped fabric after napping is important, but when the strength and elastic modulus of the fiber after the process is lowered due to the thermal history in the relaxing heat treatment process and the dyeing process, the nap property is raised. There are problems such as a remarkable decrease and a so-called "fatigue" phenomenon in which the elasticity is decreased.

[0003]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention overcomes the above-mentioned problems in the process of producing a napped fabric, has excellent raising and raising properties which cannot be achieved by the conventional method, and further has an elastic property. It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester fiber capable of obtaining a polyester napped fabric having good elasticity.

[0004]

The inventors of the present invention have arrived at the present invention as a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems. That is, the present invention has the following configurations. 1. The main component is polyester, and the following (1)-
A polyester fiber which simultaneously satisfies the characteristics of (3). 2% ≦ ε _0.2 ≦ 30% (1) IS _a / IS _b ≧ 0.9 (2) Im / (dtpf) ² ≧ 450 (3) (where ε _0.2 is the structural integrity parameter and IS _a is initial tensile elastic modulus after dry heat treatment the (cN / dtex), initial tensile modulus before iS _b are dry heat treatment the (cN / dtex), Im is a monofilament second moment (μm ^4), dtpf is It represents the single yarn fineness (decitex).) 2. The polyester fiber as described in 1 above, which has the following characteristics. SHW ≦ 20% SG _b ≧ 1.350 SG _a −SG _b ≧ 0.02 (where SHW represents boiling water shrinkage, SG represents specific gravity of fiber (g / cm ³ ), and subscript b represents boiling water. A before processing
Indicates after boiling water treatment. ) 3. 3. The polyester fiber as described in 1 or 2 above, wherein the polyester fiber is a highly oriented undrawn yarn. 4. A napped fabric, wherein the polyester fiber according to any one of the above 1 to 3 is used at least in part.

The present invention will be described in detail below. The polyester in the present invention has terephthalic acid or naphthalenedicarboxylic acid as a main acid component, and at least one glycol, preferably at least one alkylene glycol selected from ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol and tetramethylene glycol as a main glycol component. Target polyester. Further, it may be a polyester in which a part of the terephthalic acid component or the naphthalene dicarboxylic acid component is replaced with another difunctional carboxylic acid component, and / or a part of the glycol component is the above-mentioned glycol other than the main component or other. The polyester may be replaced with the diol component of.

Examples of the dicarboxylic acid include oxalic acid, malonic acid,
Succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, decanedicarboxylic acid, dodecanedicarboxylic acid, tetradecanedicarboxylic acid, hexadecanedicarboxylic acid, 1,3-cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, 1,3-cyclo Pentanedicarboxylic acid,
Saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids exemplified by 1,2-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid and dimer acid, or ester forming properties thereof Unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids exemplified by derivatives, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid and the like, or ester-forming derivatives thereof, orthophthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 5- (alkali metal) sulfoisophthalic acid, diphenic acid 1,3 naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 1,4 naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 1,5 naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6 naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,7 naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 4,4′-biphenyldicarboxylic acid, 4,4'-biphenyl sulfone dicarboxylic acid, 4,4'-biphe Aromatic dicarboxylic acids exemplified by nyl ether dicarboxylic acid, 1,2-bis (phenoxy) ethane-p, p'-dicarboxylic acid, pamoic acid, anthracene dicarboxylic acid, and ester-forming derivatives thereof. Of these, terephthalic acid and naphthalenedicarboxylic acid are preferred.

As polyvalent carboxylic acids other than these dicarboxylic acids, ethanetricarboxylic acid, propanetricarboxylic acid, butanetetracarboxylic acid, pyromellitic acid, trimellitic acid, trimesic acid, 3,4,3 ', 4'-biphenyltetracarboxylic acid Examples thereof include carboxylic acids, and ester-forming derivatives thereof.

As glycol, ethylene glycol,
1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 2,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2
-Cyclohexanediol, 1,3-Cyclohexanediol, 1,4-Cyclohexanediol, 1,2-Cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,3-Cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,4-Cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,4
-Cyclohexanediethanol, 1,10-decamethylene glycol, 1,12 dodecanediol, polyethylene glycol, polytrimethylene glycol, polytetramethylene glycol, and other aliphatic glycols, hydroquinone, 4,4'-dihydroxybisphenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) ben
Zen, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl) sulfone, bis (p-hydroxyphenyl) ether, bis (p-hydroxyphenyl) sulfone, bis (p-hydroxyphenyl) methane, 1,2-bis (p
-Hydroxyphenyl) ethane, bisphenol A, bisphenol C, 2,5-naphthalenediol, aromatic glycols exemplified by glycols obtained by adding ethylene oxide to these glycols, and the like. Among these glycols, ethylene glycol and 1 ,
4-butylene glycol is preferred.

As polyhydric alcohols other than these glycols, trimethylolmethane, trimethylolethane,
Examples include trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, glycerol, hexanetriol and the like.

As the hydroxycarboxylic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, hydroxyacetic acid, 3-hydroxybutyric acid, p-hydroxybenzoic acid, p- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzoic acid, 4-hydroxycyclohexanecarboxylic acid, Alternatively, ester-forming derivatives thereof and the like can be mentioned.

Examples of the cyclic ester include ε-caprolactone, β-propiolactone, β-methyl-β-propiolactone, δ-valerolactone, glycolide and lactide.

Examples of the ester-forming derivative of polyvalent carboxylic acid or hydroxycarboxylic acid include these alkyl esters, acid chlorides, acid anhydrides and the like.

In the polyester of the present invention, it is particularly preferable that 80 mol% or more of the repeating units of the polyester composed of the dicarboxylic acid component and the diol component are ethylene terephthalate units or ethylene naphthalate.

For the purpose of imparting dyeability to a cationic dye, it is also possible to copolymerize a compound having an ionic group represented by 5-alkali metal sulfoisophthalic acid and an ester-forming derivative thereof.

In these polyester fibers, a small amount of any other polymer, antioxidant, antistatic agent, dye improving agent, dye, pigment, antibacterial agent, fluorescent whitening agent, dull agent, micropore forming agent, etc. The additive may be contained.

A triangular cross-section yarn will be described below as an example of the method for producing the polyester fiber of the present invention. For example, after polyethylene terephthalate chips are dried, they are fed to a melt extruder and, while being weighed, Y is added at a spinning temperature of 270 ° C to 300 ° C.
Discharge from a spinneret having a mold discharge hole. It can be obtained by cooling the discharged yarn with a cooling air blown in a perpendicular direction, converging it with a spinning oil agent, and then withdrawing it at a take-up speed in the range of 3500 m / min to 5500 m / min. As another method, after the discharged yarn is cooled in the same manner as above, the spinning speed is set to 25
After taking off at 00m / min ~ 4500m / min, take it off without winding it while heat treating it with a preheating roller heated to 80 ° C to 120 ° C and a heat setting roller heated to 130 ° C to 180 ° C. Can be obtained by At this time, stretching may be performed within the natural stretching ratio.
In addition to this method, the obtained filament can be cut into staples and then used as spun yarn.

As the cross-sectional shape of the polyester fiber of the present invention, various modified cross-sections such as multi-lobed, polygonal, hollow, C, H, T, V, and W-shaped can be adopted.

In the polyester fiber of the present invention, the structural integrity parameter (ε _0.2 ) is required to be 2% to 30%, and when it is lower than 2%, the fluffed fiber has a high elastic modulus and does not fluff. Since it becomes difficult, the surface quality after raising is inferior, which is not preferable. On the other hand, when it is higher than 30%, the elastic modulus of the fiber is low, the elastic modulus is further lowered by the relaxation heat treatment, and the hair raising property of the napped fiber is deteriorated, which is not preferable. It is more preferably 3% to 25%, further preferably 5% to 20%.

Further, in the polyester fiber of the present invention, the initial elastic modulus retention rate (IS _a /
IS _b ) needs to be 0.9 or more, which means that the heat treatment promotes oriented crystallization and improves the elastic modulus. That is, not only the oriented crystallized fiber by such heat treatment has a higher elastic modulus, but also the improvement of the crystallinity improves the cut property when raising the clothing and facilitates the raising. Therefore, when the initial elastic modulus after the heat treatment is lower than the initial elastic modulus before the heat treatment, the modulus after the dyeing step is remarkably decreased, and the hair raising property is deteriorated, and the raising property when raising the clothing is also increased. It is not preferable because it decreases. It is more preferably 0.95 or more.

Further, the polyester fiber of the present invention is required to satisfy the following formula, and when it is not satisfied, hairiness and elasticity are lacking, which is not preferable. More preferably 5
00 or more, more preferably 550 or more. Im / (dtpf) ² ≧ 450 where Im is the minimum moment of inertia of the single fiber (μm
⁴ ), which represents the minimum value in the cross section where the value changes depending on how the neutral axis is taken.

Further, in the polyester fiber of the present invention, the hot water shrinkage ratio (SHW) needs to be 20% or less, and if it exceeds 20%, the pile portion after the relaxation heat treatment becomes high, and the cloth for raising the cloth for woven fabric is increased. Not only the workability is deteriorated, but also the hairiness is deteriorated, which is not preferable. It is more preferably 15% or less.

The specific gravity (SG) of the polyester fiber of the present invention is preferably 1.35 g / cm ³ or more,
If it is less than 1.35 g / cm ³ , the oriented crystallization is insufficient, the effect of promoting oriented crystallization by heat treatment cannot be obtained, and the elastic modulus cannot be improved. More preferably, it is 1.355 g / cm ³ or more.

Further, in the polyester fiber of the present invention, the difference in specific gravity (SG _a -SG _b ) before and after heat treatment is preferably 0.02 g / cm ³ or more, and when it is less than 0.02 g / cm ³ , oriented crystals are obtained. It is not preferable because the promotion of oxidization is insufficient, the cut property at the time of raising is lowered, and the elastic modulus is not improved and the hair raising property is poor, and more preferably 0.025 g / cm ³ or more.

The polyester fiber of the present invention is preferably a highly oriented undrawn yarn, and in the undrawn state, it is strong and has a low elastic modulus and lacks practicality. Also, since the drawn yarn has high strength,
Difficult to brush and lacks stable processability. Incidentally, the highly oriented undrawn yarn generally has a take-up speed of 2500 m /
Although the yarn is directly drawn and wound for a minute or more, the present invention also includes a yarn in a broad sense, which is drawn within a natural draw ratio.

Next, a method for manufacturing a raised fabric of the present invention will be illustrated. For example, as a method for producing a double-sided raised knit, the polyester fiber produced as described above may be used as a pile yarn as it is, or may be used after being subjected to false twisting and crimping, A normal polyester stretched yarn is used as the ground yarn, and the pile yarn and the ground yarn are knitted by a sinker pile circular knitting machine. After that, it is subjected to a relaxing heat treatment under high pressure or normal pressure, and then dyed. After presetting the dyed knitted fabric, an oil agent is applied if necessary, and the back side is raised first and then both sides are raised. After shirring, a final set is applied to obtain a double-sided brushed knit.

[0026]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described below with reference to examples. The method used for the evaluation of the present invention is as follows.

(Structural integrity parameter; ε _0.2 ) Toyobo Engineering's epsilon meter (Model CT-2
00), sample length 20 cm, hot water treatment temperature 80 ℃, treatment time 30 seconds, load of treatment 0.177 cN / dtex (0.2 g / den) 5 times of measurement, average value It was evaluated by.

(IS: Initial Tensile Elastic Modulus) Tensilon manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd. was subjected to a tensile test at a gauge length of 200 mm, a crosshead speed of 200 mm / min, and a chart speed of 500 mm / min, and the initial tensile elasticity of the obtained SS curve was obtained. The rate was evaluated. The fineness after the treatment was used for the calculation of the initial tensile modulus after the dry heat treatment. Here, the dry heat treatment means heat treatment at 160 ° C. for 30 minutes in a hot air dryer under no load.

(Im: Moment of inertia of area) It is a value determined by the cross-sectional shape expressed by the following equation, y is the distance from the neutral axis, and dA is a minute area. However, in the cross section where the value changes depending on how the neutral axis is taken, I
The neutral axis shall be set so that m is minimized. Im = ∫y ² dA Actually, Im was determined based on the above definition from a fiber cross-sectional photograph magnified 2000 times or more with a scanning electron microscope. In addition, the measurement of Im is performed using various commercially available calculation software from the cross-sectional photograph, or in the case of a relatively simple shape, for example, on the Internet homepage (htt
p: //www.design-craft.net/shiryou/mennseki, http:
//www.offer.ne.jp/chishiki/koushiki#zu/1heimen etc.)
It can be calculated by the calculation formula described above. Further, based on the above definition, it is also possible to calculate by a computer by forming a calculation program.

(SHW: Hot water shrinkage ratio) Heat shrinkage unevenness measuring system (FTA-500; Toray Engineering Co., Ltd.)
The rotation speed of the draw roller (Vd) so that the yarn running tension is kept at 0.4 g between the feed roller that rotates at a speed of 5.0 m / min and the draw roller that can automatically adjust the rotation speed. SHW (%) = (5) measured by a method of running the yarn in a boiling water bath at 100 ° C installed between two rollers while automatically adjusting −Vd) / 5 × 100 Vd: rotation speed of the draw roller (m / min)

(SG; Specific Gravity) An average value of n = 3 measured at 30 ° C. with a density gradient tube made of a mixed solution of calcium nitrate tetrahydrate and pure water.

(Evaluation of texture) Three dyeing and processing engineers who have a long experience in evaluating the texture of polyester fabrics gave a napped fabric with an excellent tactile feel.
Was judged as.

Example 1 A polyethylene terephthalate chip having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.63 dl / g was dried, melted using a melt extruder, and discharged from a spinneret having 36 Y-shaped discharge holes. The spinning temperature at this time was 285 ° C, and the discharged yarn was cooled with a cooling air blown from a direction perpendicular to the running direction.
After the yarn was collected at 00 m / min, two of the yarns were combined to obtain a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn of 152 decitex 72 filaments. The polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn is used as a pile yarn, and the knitted fabric is knitted by using a drawn yarn of 110 decitex 72 filaments having a breaking strength of 4.9 cN / dtex, a breakage elongation of 33% and a boiling water shrinkage of 7% as a base yarn. A double-sided raised knitted fabric was obtained by raising the fabric. A raised knitted fabric having excellent raising properties in the raising process, rich in raising properties and elasticity was obtained.

(Example 2) 30 with the first godet roller
After taking it off at 00m / min, after heat-treating it with a 90 ° C second godet roller and a 170 ° C third godet roller,
Two of these yarns were combined to obtain a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn of 152 decitex 72 filaments. A double-sided raised knitted fabric was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except for the above. A raised knitted fabric having excellent raising properties in the raising process, rich in raising properties and elasticity was obtained.

(Comparative Example 1) Double-sided brushing was carried out by the same method as in Example 1 except that a highly oriented undrawn yarn was obtained at a take-up speed of 4200 m / min using a spinneret having 36 round discharge holes. I got a knitted fabric.
Although it is excellent in raising in the raising process,
It was a napped knitted fabric with little feeling of elasticity.

Comparative Example 2 A double-sided raised knitted fabric was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the take-up speed with the godet roller was 3000 m / min. The shrinkage during the relaxation heat treatment was large and the pile height was high, and the napped fibers were disturbed during raising in the raising process. Furthermore, the hairiness after brushing was poor.

(Comparative Example 3) The take-up speed with a godet roller was set to 3000 m / min, and once wound up, it passed through a preheating roller heated to 80 ° C and then to a hot plate heated to 150 ° C. A double-sided raised knitted fabric was obtained in exactly the same manner as in Example 1, except that a yarn stretched 1.75 times while heat setting was used as the pile yarn. Since the raising property in the raising process was low, it was necessary to increase the number of times to raise the needle cloth. In addition, the napped fibers after napping were disturbed, and the napped fibers became pill-like, resulting in poor quality.

[0038]

[Table 1]

[0039]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, a polyester fiber suitable for producing a napped fabric having excellent napping properties when producing a napped fabric, and having excellent fluffing properties and elasticity is also provided. It is possible to obtain the napped fabric used.

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A polyester fiber whose main component is polyester and which simultaneously satisfies the following properties (1) to (3). 2% ≦ ε _0.2 ≦ 30% (1) IS _a / IS _b ≧ 0.9 (2) Im / (dtpf) ² ≧ 450 (3) (where ε _0.2 is the structural integrity parameter and IS _a is The initial tensile elastic modulus (cN / dtex) after dry heat treatment, IS _b the initial tensile elastic modulus (cN / dtex) before dry heat treatment, Im is the second moment of area of the single fiber (μm ⁴ ), and dtpf is Indicates the single yarn fineness (decitex). 2. The polyester fiber according to claim 1, which satisfies the following characteristics. SHW ≦ 20% SG _b ≧ 1.350 SG _a −SG _b ≧ 0.02 (where SHW represents boiling water shrinkage, SG represents specific gravity of fiber (g / cm ³ ), and subscript b represents boiling water. A before processing
Indicates after boiling water treatment. ) 3. The polyester fiber according to claim 1, wherein the polyester fiber is a highly oriented undrawn yarn. 4. A napped fabric comprising the polyester fiber according to any one of claims 1 to 3 as at least a part thereof.