JP2003003325A - Polyester fiber and raised fabric produced by using the fiber - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a polyester fiber having excellent raising property in the production of a raised fabric and suitable for the production of a raised fabric having excellent raising property and soft touch and provide a raised fabric produced by using the fiber. SOLUTION: The polyester fiber is composed mainly of a polyester and satisfies the formulas (1) to (3) at the same time. 2%<=ε0.2 <=30%...(1); SHW<=20%...(2); and ISa /ISb >=0.8...(3) wherein ε0.2 is structure-integration parameter, SHW is hot water shrinkage, ISa is initial tensile modulus (cN/dtex) after dry-heat treatment and ISb is initial tensile modulus (cN/dtex) before dry-heat treatment.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn which is suitable for producing a raised fabric which has excellent raising properties when producing a raised fabric and is excellent in raising property and softness. It is a thing.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A double-sided raised knitted fabric made by raising a single-knit sinker pile knitted fabric composed of pile yarns and other yarns is used for outer garments such as jackets. Conventionally, spun yarns such as cotton and acrylic have been often used for such double-sided brushed knitted fabrics, but polyester has come to be widely used because of their excellent easy care properties and low cost. Came. Further, not only polyester spun yarns but also filaments have come to be used. For example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 62-47983 discloses a method for producing a high bulky double-sided brushed knitted fabric having uniform and long hairs made of polyester filament yarns. Has been done. However, there is a problem with the raising property in the raising process, such as the need to increase the number of times of raising the cloth for obtaining the high bulky property.

[0003]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention overcomes the above problems in the process of producing a napped fabric, has an excellent raising property which cannot be achieved by the conventional methods, and has a raising property and a soft feeling. It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester fiber capable of easily and economically obtaining a good polyester raised fabric.

[0004]

The inventors of the present invention have arrived at the present invention as a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems. Means for solving the above-mentioned problems, that is, the first aspect of the present invention is a polyester fiber characterized in that the main component is polyester, and the following properties (1) to (3) are simultaneously satisfied: % ≤ ε _0.2 ≤ 30% (1) SHW ≤ 20% (2) IS _a / IS _b ≥ 0.8 (3) (where ε _0.2 is the structural integrity parameter, SHW
Represents the hot water shrinkage, IS _a represents the initial tensile elastic modulus (cN / dtex) after the dry heat treatment, and IS _b represents the initial tensile elastic modulus (cN / dtex) before the dry heat treatment. ) The second is the polyester fiber according to claim 1, which satisfies the following characteristics: SG _b ≧ 1.350 SG _a −SG _b ≧ 0.02 (where SG is the specific gravity of the fiber (g / cm ^3). ), And the subscript b represents before dry heat treatment and a represents after dry heat treatment.) The third is the polyester fiber according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyester fiber is a highly oriented undrawn yarn. The 4th is a napped cloth which uses the polyester fiber in any one of Claims 1-3 for at least one part.

The present invention will be described in detail below. The polyester in the present invention has terephthalic acid or naphthalenedicarboxylic acid as a main acid component, and at least one glycol, preferably at least one alkylene glycol selected from ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol and tetramethylene glycol as a main glycol component. Target polyester. Further, it may be a polyester in which a part of the terephthalic acid component or the naphthalenedicarboxylic acid component is replaced with another difunctional carboxylic acid component, and / or a part of the glycol component is the above-mentioned glycol or other component other than the main component. The polyester may be replaced with the diol component of.

Examples of the dicarboxylic acid include oxalic acid, malonic acid,
Succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, decanedicarboxylic acid, dodecanedicarboxylic acid, tetradecanedicarboxylic acid, hexadecanedicarboxylic acid, 1,3-cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, 1,3-cyclo Pentanedicarboxylic acid,
Saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids exemplified by 1,2-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid and dimer acid, or their ester forming properties Unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids exemplified by derivatives, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid or the like, or ester-forming derivatives thereof, orthophthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 5- (alkali metal) sulfoisophthalic acid, diphenic acid 1,3-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 1,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,7-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 4,4′-biphenyldicarboxylic acid, 4,4'-biphenyl sulfone dicarboxylic acid 4,4'-biphe Aromatic dicarboxylic acids such as nyl ether dicarboxylic acid, 1,2-bis (phenoxy) ethane-p, p'-dicarboxylic acid, pamoic acid, anthracene dicarboxylic acid, and ester-forming derivatives thereof are mentioned. Of these dicarboxylic acids, terephthalic acid and naphthalenedicarboxylic acid are preferred.

As polyvalent carboxylic acids other than these dicarboxylic acids, ethanetricarboxylic acid, propanetricarboxylic acid, butanetetracarboxylic acid, pyromellitic acid, trimellitic acid, trimesic acid, 3,4,3 ', 4'-biphenyltetracarboxylic acid Examples thereof include carboxylic acids, and ester-forming derivatives thereof.

As glycol, ethylene glycol,
1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 2,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2
-Cyclohexanediol, 1,3-Cyclohexanediol, 1,4-Cyclohexanediol, 1,2-Cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,3-Cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,4-Cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,4
-Cyclohexanediethanol, 1,10-decamethylene glycol, 1,12 dodecanediol, polyethylene glycol, polytrimethylene glycol, polytetramethylene glycol, and other aliphatic glycols, hydroquinone, 4,4'-dihydroxybisphenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) ben
Zen, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl) sulfone, bis (p-hydroxyphenyl) ether, bis (p-hydroxyphenyl) sulfone, bis (p-hydroxyphenyl) methane, 1,2-bis (p
-Hydroxyphenyl) ethane, bisphenol A, bisphenol C, 2,5 naphthalenediol, aromatic glycols exemplified by glycols obtained by adding ethylene oxide to these glycols, and the like. Among these glycols, ethylene glycol and 1 ,
4-butylene glycol is preferred.

As polyhydric alcohols other than these glycols, trimethylolmethane, trimethylolethane,
Examples include trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, glycerol, hexanetriol and the like.

As the hydroxycarboxylic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, hydroxyacetic acid, 3-hydroxybutyric acid, p-hydroxybenzoic acid, p- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzoic acid, 4-hydroxycyclohexanecarboxylic acid, Alternatively, ester-forming derivatives thereof and the like can be mentioned.

Examples of the cyclic ester include ε-caprolactone, β-propiolactone, β-methyl-β-propiolactone, δ-valerolactone, glycolide and lactide.

Examples of the ester-forming derivative of polyvalent carboxylic acid or hydroxycarboxylic acid include these alkyl esters, acid chlorides, acid anhydrides and the like.

In the polyester of the present invention, it is particularly preferable that 80 mol% or more of the repeating units of the polyester composed of the dicarboxylic acid component and the diol component are ethylene terephthalate units or ethylene naphthalate.

For the purpose of imparting dyeability to a cationic dye, it is also possible to copolymerize a compound having an ionic group represented by 5-alkali metal sulfoisophthalic acid and an ester-forming derivative thereof.

In these polyester fibers, a small amount of any other polymer, antioxidant, antistatic agent, dye improving agent, dye, pigment, antibacterial agent, fluorescent whitening agent, dull agent, micropore forming agent, etc. The additive may be contained.

The polyester fiber of the present invention is obtained by, for example, drying polyethylene terephthalate chips, supplying the melt to a melt extruder, and then discharging it from a spinneret having circular discharge holes at a spinning temperature of 270 ° C. to 300 ° C. while measuring. The discharged yarn is cooled by a cooling air blown in a perpendicular direction, converged by a spinning oil agent, and then a take-up speed of 3500 m / min to 50
Obtained by collecting in the range of 00 m / min. Further, as another method, the discharged yarn is cooled in the same manner as described above, taken up at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min to 4000 m / min, and then continuously wound at 80 ° C. to 10 ° C.
Preheat roller heated to 0 ° C and 130-170 ° C
It can be obtained by taking it off while heat-treating it with a heat-setting roller that has been heated. In addition to this method, the obtained filament can be cut into staples and then used as spun yarn.

The cross-sectional shape of the polyester fiber of the present invention is not limited to a circle, but may be multileaf, polygon, hollow, flat, C,
A modified cross section such as H, T, V or W may be used.

In the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn of the present invention,
And the structural integrity parameter (ε _0.2) Is 2% to 30%
It is necessary to be
Fiber has a high elastic modulus, resulting in a hard surface.
Not good. On the other hand, if it exceeds 30%, the elastic modulus of the fiber
Is low, and the elastic modulus is further reduced by relaxing heat treatment
However, it is preferable because the raised fiber becomes poor in hair raising property.
Absent. It is more preferably 3% to 25%, and even more preferably
It is preferably 5% to 20%.

In the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn of the present invention, the hot water shrinkage (SHW) needs to be 20% or less, and if it exceeds 20%, the pile portion after the relaxation heat treatment becomes high, and the needle Not only is the fabric raising processability deteriorated, but the hair raising property is also reduced, which is not preferable. It is more preferably 15% or less.

Further, in the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn of the present invention, the initial elastic modulus ratio (IS _a / IS _b ) after heat treatment needs to be 0.8 or more, which is due to the orientation crystal by heat treatment. It means that the elasticity is promoted and the elastic modulus is improved. That is, not only the oriented crystallized fiber by such heat treatment has a higher elastic modulus, but also the improvement of the crystallinity improves the cut property when raising the clothing and facilitates the raising. Therefore, when the initial elastic modulus after the heat treatment is lower than the initial elastic modulus before the heat treatment, the modulus after the dyeing step is remarkably decreased, and the hair raising property is deteriorated, and the raising property when raising the cloth for the cloth is also increased. It is not preferable because it decreases. More preferably,
It is 0.9 or more.

The specific gravity (SG) of the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn of the present invention is preferably 1.35 or more, and when it is less than 1.35, oriented crystallization is insufficient,
The effect of promoting oriented crystallization by heat treatment cannot be obtained and the elastic modulus cannot be improved. More preferably, it is 1.355 or more.

Further, the highly oriented polyester unoriented yarn of the present invention has a difference in specific gravity (S) before and after dry heat treatment at 160 ° C. for 30 minutes.
G _a −SG _b ) is preferably 0.02 or more,
If it is less than 0.02, the promotion of oriented crystallization is insufficient, the cut property at the time of raising is not only lowered, but also the elastic modulus is not improved and the hair raising property is deteriorated, which is not preferable, and more preferably 0.025. That is all.

Next, a method for manufacturing the napped cloth of the present invention will be illustrated. For example, as a method for producing a double-sided raised knit, the polyester fiber produced as described above may be used as a pile yarn as it is, or may be used after being subjected to false twisting and crimping, A normal polyester stretched yarn is used as the ground yarn, and the pile yarn and the ground yarn are knitted by a sinker pile circular knitting machine. After that, it is subjected to a relaxing heat treatment under high pressure or normal pressure, and then dyed. After presetting the dyed knitted fabric, an oil agent is applied if necessary, and the back side is raised first and then both sides are raised. After shirring, a final set is applied to obtain a double-sided brushed knit.

[0024]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described below with reference to examples. The method used for the evaluation of the present invention is as follows.

(Structural integrity parameter; ε _0.2 ) Toyobo Engineering's ε meter (Model CT-
200), sample length 20 cm, hot water treatment temperature 8
0 ° C, processing time 30 seconds, processing load 0.177 cN /
The measurement was performed 5 times under the condition of dtex (0.2 g / den), and the average value was evaluated.

(SHW: hot water shrinkage ratio) Heat shrinkage unevenness measuring system (FTA-500; Toray Engineering Co., Ltd.)
The rotation speed of the draw roller (Vd) so that the yarn running tension is kept at 0.4 g between the feed roller that rotates at a speed of 5.0 m / min and the draw roller that can automatically adjust the rotation speed. SHW (%) = (5) measured by a method of running the yarn in a boiling water bath at 100 ° C installed between two rollers while automatically adjusting −Vd) / 5 × 100 Vd: rotation speed of the draw roller (m / min)

(IS: Initial Tensile Elastic Modulus) Tensileon manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd. was subjected to a tensile test at a gauge length of 200 mm and a crosshead speed of 200 mm / min, and the initial tensile elastic modulus of the obtained SS curve was evaluated. The fineness after the treatment was used for the calculation of the initial tensile modulus after the dry heat treatment. Here, the dry heat treatment means heat treatment at 160 ° C. for 30 minutes in a hot air dryer under no load.

(SG; Specific gravity) The average value of n = 3 measured at 30 ° C. with a density gradient tube made of a mixed solution of calcium nitrate tetrahydrate and pure water.

(Evaluation of texture) Three dyeing and processing engineers who have a long experience in evaluating the texture of polyester fabric judged the napped fabric to have a soft feeling as ◯, and those not so as x.

Example 1 A polyethylene terephthalate chip having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.63 dl / g was dried, melted using a melt extruder, and discharged from a spinneret having 36 discharge holes. The spinning temperature at this time was 286 ° C., and the discharged yarn was cooled by a cooling air blown from a direction perpendicular to the running direction, and after applying a spinning oil solution, 410 was applied by a godet roller.
After being taken up at 0 m / min, two of the yarns were combined to obtain a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn of 152 decitex 72 filaments. Such polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn was used as a pile yarn, and the breaking strength was 4.9 cN / dtex and the breaking elongation was 3
A double-sided raised knitted fabric was obtained by using a drawn yarn of 110 decitex 72 filaments having a hot water shrinkage of 3% and 3% as a base yarn. A napped knitted fabric having excellent napping property in the napping step, rich napping property, and soft feeling was obtained.

(Embodiment 2) First godet roller 3
After taking it off at 000 m / min, it was heat-treated with a second godet roller at 90 ° C. and a third godet roller at 160 ° C., and then two yarns were combined to obtain 152 decitex 72.
A double-sided raised knitted fabric was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that a highly oriented polyester unoriented yarn of filament was obtained. A raised knitted fabric having excellent raising properties in the raising process, rich in raising properties and soft feeling was obtained.

Comparative Example 1 A double-sided raised knitted fabric was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the take-up speed with the godet roller was 3000 m / min. The shrinkage during the relaxation heat treatment was large, the pile height was high, and the napped fibers were disturbed during raising in the raising process. Furthermore, the hairiness after brushing was poor.

(Comparative Example 2) The take-up speed with a godet roller was set to 3000 m / min.
After passing through the preheating roller heated to 1, the temperature was set on a hot plate heated to 150 ° C., and the yarn stretched 1.75 times was used for the pile yarn in the same manner as in Example 1 except for using both sides. A raised knitted fabric was obtained. Since the raising property in the raising process was low, it was necessary to increase the number of times to raise the needle cloth. Further, the napped fibers after napping were disturbed, and the feel of the napped portion was hard and the quality was poor.

[0034]

[Table 1]

[0035]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn suitable for producing a napped fabric which has excellent raising properties when producing a napped fabric, and which is excellent in fluffiness and softness. And it becomes possible to obtain a napped fabric using the same.

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A polyester fiber whose main component is polyester and which simultaneously satisfies the following characteristics (1) to (3). 2% ≤ ε _0.2 ≤ 30% (1) SHW ≤ 20% (2) IS _a / IS _b ≥ 0.8 (3) (where ε _0.2 is the structural integrity parameter, SHW
Represents the hot water shrinkage, IS _a represents the initial tensile elastic modulus (cN / dtex) after the dry heat treatment, and IS _b represents the initial tensile elastic modulus (cN / dtex) before the dry heat treatment. ) 2. The polyester fiber according to claim 1, which satisfies the following characteristics. SG _b ≧ 1.350 SG _a −SG _b ≧ 0.02 (where SG represents the specific gravity (g / cm ³ ) of the fiber, and the subscript b represents before dry heat treatment and a represents after dry heat treatment.) 3. The polyester fiber according to claim 1, wherein the polyester fiber is a highly oriented undrawn yarn. 4. A napped fabric comprising the polyester fiber according to any one of claims 1 to 3 as at least a part thereof.