JP2003020562A - Method for producing polyester burn-out finished fabric having stretchability - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for producing a polyester-based burn-out finished fabric composed of a polyester-based fiber, having adequate stretchability and a thin raised fiber-like appearance and having good clarity in pattern edge obtained after burn-out finishing. SOLUTION: A fabric is prepared by using a combined filament yarn obtained by interlacing and combining a polyester filament yarn having a thin fineness, having <=1 decitex fineness of constituting single yarn with a polyester filament yarn having thick fineness, having a boiling water shrinkage larger by >=10% than that of the polyester filament yarn having thin fineness and >=2 decitex fineness of constituting single yarn and a latent crimping polyester filament yarn having >=2 decitex fineness of constituting single yarn having latent crimpability. The resultant fabric is subjected to heat treatment for developing crimping of the latent crimping polyester filament yarn and burn-out finishing for burning out the thin-fineness polyester filament yarn of a printed part by printing a paste agent containing an alkaline substance.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention
In addition, the present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester edible cloth having a thin raised fabric and elasticity.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a method of removing foods, a cellulosic fiber such as rayon or cotton, or a mixed or woven fabric thereof with acid is acid-treated to partially remove the cellulosic fiber. There is an opal processing method to obtain a watermark pattern. As a method for producing a similar effect on a cloth made of polyester fibers, a polyester-based fiber having different alkali solubility is mixed to form a cloth, and the cloth is printed with an alkali paste to remove the alkali easily soluble side of the printing section. A method of melting a fiber to obtain a watermark pattern has been proposed. In this case, as an example of a combination of fibers having different alkali solubilities, a third component is copolymerized to obtain an alkali easily soluble polyester, and the polymer alone is used as fibers.
Alternatively, there are a combination of a composite spinning of this polymer and an alkali hardly soluble polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate and a fiber made of an alkali hardly soluble polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate, and a combination of fibers having different fineness. Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2000-64182 discloses raising the fineness side of a fabric having a combination of fibers made of the same component and having a fineness different by 10 times or more, and applying an alkaline draining solution to the raised surface to apply fineness to the printing portion. A method has been proposed in which fibers on the fineness side are dissolved and removed to obtain a watermark pattern. However, none of these methods has yielded a fabric which simultaneously satisfies the stretchability, the raised appearance, and the clearness of the pattern after the food is removed.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and is a cloth made of polyester fiber, which has appropriate stretchability and has a thin raised appearance. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a polyester-based fastened processed fabric, and additionally to provide a method for producing a polyester-based fastened processed fabric that also satisfies the clarity at the time of a mold after the fastening. It is intended.

[0004]

The present invention achieves the above object, and a fine polyester filament fiber having a fineness of the constituent single yarn of 1 decitex or less, and the fine polyester filament fiber. A mixed filament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 10% or more and a fineness of a constituent single yarn of 2 decitex or more and a polyester filament fiber yarn entangled with each other and a latent crimping property. A heat treatment for causing the crimp of the latently crimpable polyester filament fibers to develop on a fabric made of latently crimpable polyester filament fibers having a fineness of 2 decitex or more, and a paste containing an alkaline substance. A method for producing a polyester fast-discharging fabric having elasticity, which is characterized by performing a discharging process in which a fine-fineness polyester long-fiber yarn is discharged by printing an agent, and the fineness after splitting treatment is 1 deci A split 繊型 polyester filament yarns box or less, the fineness of the large and configurations single yarn boiling water shrinkage of 10% or more than 該割 繊型 polyester filament yarns 2
Using a mixed filament yarn in which a fine filament polyester filament yarn having a decitex or more is entangled and mixed, and a latent crimpable polyester filament fiber yarn having a latent crimp and a constituent single yarn having a fineness of 2 decitex or more The split fabric processing to split the split polyester long fiber yarn, the heat treatment process to develop the crimp of the latent crimpable polyester continuous fiber yarn, and the sizing agent containing the alkaline substance on the fabric A gist of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a polyester edible fabric having stretchability, which is characterized by carrying out an edging process in which the polyester fine fiber yarn of the fine fineness of the printed portion is laid out.

[0005]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The present invention will be described in detail below.
In the present invention, first, a fine-fiber polyester filament fiber having a fineness of the constituent single yarn of 1 decitex or less and a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 10% or more larger than that of the fine-fineness polyester filament fiber have a fineness of 2 decitex or more. Using a mixed filament yarn obtained by entanglement and mixing of a large fineness polyester filament fiber and a latent crimping polyester filament fiber having a latent crimping constituent single yarn with a fineness of 2 decitex or more. And fabricate.

The fine polyester long-fiber yarn is a yarn to be eaten in the subsequent drawing process, and in the part which is not drawn, it is important to give the cloth a raised appearance and a touch. Have a different role. This yarn is a yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate or a copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing a polyethylene terephthalate unit with a third component such as isophthalic acid. When it is a copolyester, it may be more easily soluble in alkali than other large fineness polyester filament fibers or latently crimped polyester filament fibers.

The fine polyester fine fiber yarn may have a fiber property of a flat yarn, but a crimped yarn such as a false twisted yarn is preferred because the texture of the fabric becomes softer. When it is a crimped yarn, it is a crimped yarn obtained by false twisting a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn having a birefringence of 30 × 10 −3 to 80 × 10 −3, and the birefringence after the false twisting process. Is a false twisted yarn having a size of 50 × 10 −3 to 150 × 10 −3, which is preferable because it makes it possible to carry out a drawing process with a clean die edge during the subsequent drawing process.

The fine polyester fine filament yarns to be eaten out in the subsequent drafting process can be split to have the fineness of the constituent single yarns of 1 decitex or less. It may be a thread. As shown in FIG. 1, the split-fiber type polyester filament yarn is a yarn produced in a state where the alkali sparingly soluble polymer part (P) and the alkali sparingly soluble polymer part (Q) are joined in the fiber cross section. Thus, the splitting treatment with the alkaline liquid splits the poorly soluble alkali polymer portion (Q) into finenesses of 1 decitex or less. In this case, as the polymer used in the alkali-insoluble polymer portion (Q), polyethylene terephthalate or a copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing a third component in a polyethylene terephthalate unit is used as in the fine polyester filament fiber described above. As the alkali-soluble polymer portion (P), a polyester which is more soluble in alkali than these, for example, a copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing sulfoisophthalic acid is used.

The split-fiber type polyester filament fibers may be flat yarns, but may also be crimped yarns such as false twisted yarns. In the case of a crimped yarn, preferably, a split fiber type polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn having a residual elongation of 100% or more, which is obtained by high-speed spinning at a spinning speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min, has a draw ratio of 1.1. 2 times or less, 18,000
/ D ^1/2 T / M is a crimped yarn that is false twisted with a false twisting number of not more than 50%, and the residual elongation of this crimped yarn is 50 to 100%. However, it is desirable because it enables a clean eating process. Here, D is a numerical value in which the fineness of the split fiber type polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn is expressed in decitex.

The large fineness polyester filament fiber yarn used in the present invention has a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 10% or more higher than the fine filament polyester filament fiber yarn or the split filament type polyester filament fiber yarn, and the fineness of its constituent single yarns. Is 2 decitex or more, and is a yarn that remains as a fabric-constituting yarn in the pattern portion even if it is subjected to a weight reduction action in the removal processing. This large fineness polyester filament yarn is also a yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate or a copolymerized polyester in which a third component such as isophthalic acid is copolymerized in a polyethylene terephthalate unit. In the case of polyethylene terephthalate, the heat treatment during stretching is light. The yarn obtained as described above is used, and as a more stable yarn, a yarn made of a copolyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate unit with about 10 mol% of isophthalic acid is used.

In the present invention, the boiling water shrinkage is measured by the following method. A sample that was wound into a skein 10 times under a tension of 0.09 g / decitex to form a ring,
After applying a load of 0.9 g / decitex to measure the length F of the ring, remove the load and heat-treat for 30 minutes in boiling water.
Air dry. Then, the length G of the ring is measured under a load of 0.9 g / decitex and calculated by the following formula. Boiling water shrinkage (%) = ((F−G) / F) × 100

The fineness polyester long-fiber yarn, the split-type polyester long-fiber yarn and the large-fineness polyester long-fiber yarn used in the present invention may have the same total fineness,
From the point of view of the texture of the cloth, it is preferable that the total fineness of the polyester fine filament yarn having a large fineness is small.

In the present invention, the fine fine polyester filament fibers and the large fine polyester filament fibers or the split filament type polyester filament fibers and the fine polyester filament fibers are entangled and mixed. Used as a yarn for fabric.
This entanglement mixing fiber is performed by performing fluid disturbance processing using an interlace nozzle or a Taslan nozzle. The supply rate of both yarns at this time may be the same, and if the supply rate of the fine polyester fine fiber yarns is increased, the appearance and texture of the fabric can be more raised, which is preferable.

Another yarn used in the present invention is a latent crimpable polyester filament fiber yarn having latent crimpability and having a fineness of constituent single yarn of 2 decitex or more. This latent crimpable polyester filament yarn is a yarn obtained by composite spinning of two types of polyethylene terephthalate having different viscosities or two types of polyester having different heat shrinking properties in a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath type. It has a role of developing crimps by heat treatment in a later step and thereby imparting elasticity to the cloth. When using polyethylene terephthalate with different viscosities, the relative viscosity difference is 0.05
The above is preferable. Examples of combinations in which polyesters having different heat-shrinking properties are used are polyesters copolymerized with isophthalic acid and polyethylene terephthalate, and copolymers of isophthalic acid and 2,2-bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane. Examples of the copolymerized polyester, polyethylene terephthalate, and the like. This latently crimped polyester filament fiber is also made of a sparingly soluble alkali polymer so that it will not be eaten out by the drawing process, and the fineness of its single yarn is 2 decitex or more. Further, this latent crimpable polyester continuous fiber yarn develops crimps having a crimp ratio of 30% or more when subjected to moist heat treatment in a tension-free state in order to bring sufficient stretchability to the cloth. preferable.

Here, the crimp rate is measured by the following method. A sample that was wound into a skein 10 times under a tension of 0.09 g / decitex was made into a ring shape, left for 30 minutes under a load of 0.9 / 6000 g / decitex, and then put in boiling water while maintaining this state. Leave for 30 minutes. Then, it is air-dried and a load of 0.9 / 500 g / decitex is applied to measure the length H of the ring. Then remove the load and
The length I is measured by applying a load of 9/20 g / decitex and calculated by the following formula. Crimp ratio (%) = ((I−H) / I) × 100

In the present invention, the cloth means a woven fabric and a knitted fabric, and a fabric is made by using the above-mentioned mixed yarn and latent crimpable polyester long fiber yarn. In the case of a woven fabric, the mixed yarn is a warp yarn. It is preferable to use a latent crimpable polyester filament fiber yarn as a weft for weaving. In the case of knitting, a tricot knitting machine is used to supply the mixed yarn to the front reed and the back crimp to the latent crimpable polyester. It is preferable to supply long-fiber yarn and knit in a satin tone. In the present invention, the latently crimpable polyester continuous fiber yarn may be used as the above-mentioned large fineness polyester continuous fiber yarn. In this case, when making the cloth, it is possible to make the cloth using only the mixed fiber.

In the present invention, the fabric manufactured as described above is subjected to heat treatment and erosion processing. When split polyester type continuous filament yarns are used, split fiber treatment is usually performed before these steps. I do. The splitting treatment is a step of dissolving and removing the easily soluble polymer of the split polyester long fiber yarn by treating with alkali, and producing a fine fineness single yarn by the poorly soluble polymer, depending on the type of the easily soluble polymer. It is desirable to select conditions such as an alkali concentration, a treatment temperature, a treatment time, which can dissolve and remove the easily soluble polymer and which hardly affects the hardly soluble polymer. Normally, caustic soda of 20 to 25 g / liter is used, and the treatment temperature is 8
Processing is performed under the conditions of 0 to 100 ° C. and a processing time of 30 to 60 minutes.

The heat treatment of the fabric causes the latent crimpable polyester filament yarns to develop crimps, thereby providing the fabric with elasticity and exhibiting the shrinking property of the large fineness polyester filament fibers having a large boiling water shrinkage ratio. This is done to give the fabric a raised appearance and texture. This heat treatment is in a tension-free state in order to fully exhibit the crimp expression characteristics and the shrinkage characteristics,
It is preferably carried out by treating with boiling water at normal pressure or high-pressure water up to about 140 ° C. Further, the heat treatment may be carried out at the same time as the above-mentioned splitting treatment when the split filament type polyester filament fiber yarn is used for the cloth, and at the same time as the dyeing when dyeing.

The discharging process is performed by printing a sizing agent containing an alkaline substance on the cloth and splitting the fine-fiber polyester filament fibers or split-fiber type polyester filament fibers to produce fine-fiber polyester filaments. Eating fiber yarn,
This is a process of providing a desired watermark pattern on the cloth. Caustic soda is usually used as the alkaline substance used for the processing of eating out. Any sizing agent may be used as long as it can be printed by mixing with an alkaline substance, and carboxymethyl cellulose or the like can be used. As a printing method, a flat screen method, a roller method, a gravure method, or the like may be appropriately selected depending on a pattern to be printed. After printing a sizing agent containing an alkaline substance, steam treatment is performed at 120 to 140 ° C., neutralization and soaping are performed, and the fine fiber yarn is removed. The fabric of the present invention is dyed and printed as needed, and an antistatic agent and other finishing agents are added.

[0020]

EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. Example 1 83 decitex / 167 filaments (filament A, single yarn fineness: 0.5 decitex) of polyester long-fiber yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate and having a boiling water shrinkage of 6% were used as fine-fine polyester long-fiber yarn. Fiber Polyester long-fiber yarn is made of copolyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with isophthalic acid at 10 mol% and has a boiling water shrinkage rate of 21.5%. Thick fiber polyester long-fiber yarn 33 decitex / 12 filament (thread B, monofilament Yarn fineness: 2.75 decitex),
As latent latent crimpable polyester filament yarn, side-by-side type of polyethylene terephthalate and copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing 8 mol% of isophthalic acid and 5 mol% of 2,2-bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane 56 decitex / 12 filaments of latently crimpable polyester continuous fiber yarn (spun yarn C, single yarn fineness: 4.67 decitex, crimping ratio when treated with boiling water in a tensionless state: 52%) subjected to composite spinning I was there. Using the interlacing machine equipped with MK-2 type interlace nozzle manufactured by Awa Spindle Co., Ltd., the overfeed rate of the yarn A is 1.5%, the overfeed rate of the yarn B is 0.7%, and the air pressure is 198 Kpa. The interlaced yarn is entangled and mixed to obtain a mixed yarn, and the above-mentioned mixed yarn is supplied to the front reed by a K-3 type 28 gauge tricot knitting machine manufactured by KARL MAYER. The yarn C was supplied to the reed and knitted with a satin structure. The resulting knitted fabric was scoured with a relaxer at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes with hot water treatment, and pre-set with a tenter at 170 ° C. for 1 minute. Part, Santos OP-10 (manufactured by Sanko Shoji Co., Ltd.) 30 parts, 40 parts of water was used to print a paste prepared with a geometric pattern, and steamed at 175 ° C for 9
After processing for 1 minute, neutralize, soap and 180 with a tenter
The final set at 1 ° C. for 1 minute was performed to obtain a stretch-cored knitted fabric according to the present invention. The obtained knitted fabric had elasticity and had a thin raised fabric-like feel, and a clear pattern with a watermark pattern appeared.

Comparative Example 1 In Example 1, a polyester continuous fiber yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate and having a boiling water shrinkage of 7%, 83 decitex / 72 filaments (yarn A, single yarn fineness: 1.
The same conditions as in Example 1 were used, except that 15 decitex) was used. However, withdrawal was insufficient and a clear watermark pattern could not be obtained. Therefore, when the steam treatment time after printing the sizing agent was set to 15 minutes, a clear watermark pattern was obtained, but the polyester fiber with a large fineness was also reduced, and it was damaged when it was rubbed 100 times with the Gakushin-type abrasion tester. Received.

Example 2 Polyester tere
Spin phthalate at a high spinning speed of 3500 m / min
Obtained birefringence 62 × 10^-3Polyester highly oriented unstretched
Thread 90 decitex / 167 filament, thread speed 25
0m / min, heat treatment temperature 170 ℃, overfeed rate
Set the air pressure to the swirling nozzle to 1.0% and 441 KPa.
The false twisting process is performed with a false twisting device, and the birefringence after the false twisting process is 10
7 x 10^{- 3}, Polyester with a fineness of 5% with boiling water shrinkage
Long-fiber false twist textured yarn (yarn A, single yarn fineness: 0.54 d
The same procedure as in Example 1 except that
An elastic stretchable knitted fabric according to the invention was obtained. The obtained knitted fabric is stretched.
It has a crimping property, has a thin raised brush-like feel, and has a light texture.
A clear pattern appears with a watermark pattern, which is closer to the mold than in Example 1.
Was a clear pattern.

Example 3 As split long polyester filament yarn, 13.3% by mass of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 6000 and having an 8-divided cross section shown in FIG. 1 as an easily soluble alkali polymer and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate were used. A copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing 2.5 mol% of an acid is used, polyethylene terephthalate is used as a poorly soluble polymer, and the ratio of the poorly soluble polymer and the readily soluble polymer is 8: 2, and the spinning speed is 3000.
Highly oriented unstretched split fiber type polyester with residual elongation of 110% obtained by high-speed spinning at m / min was used at a yarn speed of 300 m / mi.
n, a heat treatment temperature of 170 ° C., a draw ratio of 1.01, and a false twisting device with a false twisting device set to an air pressure of 294 KPa to the swirling nozzle (the false twisting number was 780 T / M), and the false twisting process was performed. 100 decitex / 48 filaments of split filament type polyester filament false twisted yarn with residual elongation of 75% and boiling water shrinkage of 5% (filament D, single yarn fineness after splitting: 0.21 decitex) As the thick fiber polyester long fiber yarn (yarn B) and the latent crimpable polyester long fiber yarn (yarn C), the same yarn as in Example 1 was used. With an interlacing machine equipped with Awa Spindle Co., Ltd. MK-2 type interlace nozzle, the overfeed rate of yarn D is 2.0%, and the overfeed rate of yarn B is 0.7%.
Then, by interlacing with air pressure of 147 Kpa, entangled and mixed fibers are obtained to obtain a mixed yarn, and the mixed yarn is used as a warp and the yarn C is used as a weft.
A satin woven fabric having a satin design of 5 sheets was woven at a weft density of 2.54 cm and a weft density of 133 / 2.54 cm. The resulting woven fabric was scoured with a relaxer at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes along with hot water, pre-set at 170 ° C. for 1 minute with a tenter, and then flat screen method was used to remove caustic soda 50.
The paste prepared with 50% of the concentration of 50 parts, 20 parts of Santos OP-10 (combined sizing agent manufactured by Sanko Shoji Co., Ltd.) and 50 parts of water is printed on a geometric pattern and treated with steam at 175 ° C. for 9 minutes. After neutralizing, soaping, and final setting at 180 ° C. for 1 minute with a tenter, a stretchable desiccating fabric according to the present invention was obtained. The obtained woven fabric had stretchability, had a thin raised fabric-like feel, and had a clear watermark pattern with a clear pattern.

[0024]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric having a thin brushed appearance and touch and having a comfortable stretchability and an appropriate stretchability, and having a molecular orientation as fine fibers. When using a small amount of fibers, a clearer pattern at the time of molding can be obtained.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an example of a cross section of a split filament type polyester filament fiber yarn that can be used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

P Alkali easily soluble polymer part Q Alkali sparingly soluble polymer part

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification code FI theme code (reference) D06Q 1/02 D06M 101: 32 // D06M 101: 32 5/02 G F term (reference) 3B154 AA07 AB19 BA01 BA07 BB11 BB32 BD01 BE04 BE05 BF30 DA30 4L031 AA18 AB09 AB31 BA11 CA01 CA10 DA00 DA05 4L036 MA05 MA17 MA25 MA33 PA05 PA20 PA26 PA33 RA04 UA02 UA06 4L049 AA06 BA33 BA34 BA39 DA12 DA13 DA23

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A fine fine polyester filament fiber having a fineness of 1 decitex or less, and a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 10% or more and a fineness of 2 of the constituent single yarn. Using a mixed filament yarn in which a fine filament polyester filament yarn having a decitex or more is entangled and mixed, and a latent crimpable polyester filament fiber yarn having a latent crimp and a constituent single yarn having a fineness of 2 decitex or more Heat treatment to develop the crimp of latently crimpable polyester filament fiber, and printing a sizing agent containing an alkaline substance to remove the fine filament polyester filament yarn from the imprinting section. A method for producing a stretchable polyester desiccating fabric, which is characterized by performing a desiccation process. 2. A split filament type polyester continuous fiber yarn having a fineness of 1 decitex or less after splitting treatment, and a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 10% or more higher than that of the split filament type polyester continuous fiber yarn and a constituent single yarn. A mixed filament yarn in which a fine-fineness polyester filament fiber yarn having a fineness of 2 decitex or more is entangled and mixed, and a latent crimpable polyester filament fiber having latent crimping property and a constituent single yarn having a fineness of 2 decitex or more Splitting process for splitting split polyester long fiber yarns into fabric made by using yarn, heat treatment process for developing crimp of latent crimpable polyester long fiber yarns, and paste containing alkaline substance A method for producing a polyester edible fabric having stretchability, which comprises performing an edging process in which an agent is printed and the fine polyester filament fiber yarn of the printed portion is laid out. 3. A fine-definition polyester continuous fiber yarn is a crimped yarn obtained by false twisting a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn having a birefringence of 30 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ , and false twisting the same. The method for producing a stretchable polyester edible fabric according to claim 1, wherein the subsequent birefringence is 50 × 10 ^{−3 to} 150 × 10 ⁻³ . 4. The method for producing a stretchable polyester edible fabric according to claim 2, wherein the split filament polyester filament yarn is a crimped yarn obtained by false twisting a highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn.