JP2007146319A - Fabric for opal finish and method for producing opal finished fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a fabric for opal finish capable of dealing with high demands of opal finished fabric with upgrading of a textile product as a fashion and diversification and to provide a method for producing an opal finished fabric having stretchability and swelling feeling and being colored in different colors. <P>SOLUTION: The fabric for opal finish comprises a non-opal finish fiber composed of an opal finished fiber (1) containing a polyester fiber modified with a third component having an alkali metal sulfonate group and a conjugate fiber (2) that is conjugated in a side-by-side type or eccentric sheath-core type of polymers having different physical properties and has crimps, to which a sizing agent containing an opal finish agent is attached. The method for producing the opal finished fabric comprises heat-treating the fabric for opal finish, treating the fabric with a hot aqueous solution of NaOH and dissolving and removing the opal finished fiber of the part printed with the sizing agent containing the opal finish agent. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

  [0001] The present invention relates to a method for producing a fabric for removal processing and a stretchable removal fabric.

  Recently, with the sophistication and diversification of fashion, there is an increasing demand for a stretchable fabric with stretchability, but it cannot be said that a satisfactory one has been developed yet. JP-A-2000-282377 (Patent Document 1) provides a quaternary ammonium salt to a fiber fabric sheet containing atmospheric pressure dyeable modified polyester fiber as an essential component, and steaming at a treatment temperature of 100 to 110 ° C. After performing the above, there is disclosed a method for removing a fiber fabric sheet that is steam-heat-treated with an alkaline aqueous solution. According to this method, since the heat-treatment temperature is low, the polyurethane elastic yarn is less damaged. However, this method is costly because it is a stretchable fabric made of polyurethane elastic yarn, and there is a problem of contamination at the time of dyeing disperse dyes. Also, in applications such as swimsuits, there are problems such as poor chlorine fastness and weather resistance. There is.

  Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2003-20562 (Patent Document 2) discloses a different shrinkage mixed fiber having a BWS difference of 10% or more, comprising a low shrinkage yarn having a single fiber fineness of 1 dtex or less and a high shrinkage yarn having a single fiber fineness of 2 dtex or more. “Stretchable polyester that removes the low-shrinkage side of blended yarn by printing a paste containing an alkaline substance on a fabric made using a yarn and a latently crimped yarn having a single fiber fineness of 2 dtex or more. A process for producing a cut-off fabric is disclosed. However, this method has a restriction that the fiber to be removed is “single fiber fineness of 1 dtex or less”, so it is necessary to consider the wear resistance of the fabric, pilling, etc. You can only get what you did. Further, the non-extracted fiber is greatly damaged under the condition that the extractant is an alkaline substance and NaOH described in the examples is used.

JP 2000-282377 A JP 2003-20562 A

  The subject of the present invention is that there is an increasing demand for stretchable fabrics that can be stretched in accordance with the sophistication and diversification of textile products as fashion. An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a discharge-processed fabric which has a property and a feeling of swelling, and can be dyed with different colors.

The present invention relates to a composite having crimps in which a polymer having different physical properties is combined with a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath-core type, with a discharge fiber (1) including a polyester fiber modified with a third component having an alkali metal sulfonic acid group. It exists in the fabric for a discharge process comprised from the non-discharge fiber containing a fiber (2), and the paste containing a discharge agent has adhered.
Furthermore, the present invention provides a discharge-processed fabric in which the above-described discharge processing fabric is subjected to a heat treatment and then subjected to a hot water treatment with an aqueous NaOH solution to dissolve and remove the discharge fibers in the discharge paste printing part. In the manufacturing method.

  According to the present invention, different colors can be expressed on the stretchable fabric, a complex expression excellent in design is possible, and a stretchable fabric can be obtained. Contribute to diversification.

The present invention is a fabric for discharging processing in which a paste containing a discharging agent is attached to a fabric composed of extracted fibers and non-extracting fibers.
It is necessary that the discharging fibers constituting the discharging fabric in the present invention include a polyester fiber modified with a third component having an alkali metal sulfonic acid group. The easy-exhaustability of the fibers can reduce the damage of non-extractable fibers and other extractable fibers, and the discoloration effect can be obtained by being cationic dyeable. Moreover, the effect of maintaining the strength of the non-exhaust portion due to being polyester is also obtained.
As the fiber other than the polyester fiber modified with the third component having an alkali metal sulfonic acid group, the cellulosic fiber such as cotton or rayon is preferably used as the fiber for discharging, and the fiber for polyamide can be discharged. In the present invention, a hot water treatment of an NaOH aqueous solution is performed as a condition for removing the extracted fibers in the present invention, and therefore, those having weak alkali resistance such as silk and wool are not preferable.
The polyester fiber modified with the third component having an alkali metal sulfonic acid group contained in the extracted fiber is preferably contained in the extracted fiber in an amount of 50% by mass or more from the viewpoint of design and discoloration.
In addition, the extracted fiber should just be a fiber which at least one part melt | dissolves with an extractant, and the case where the sheath part of a core sheath fiber melt | dissolves may be sufficient as it.

On the other hand, the non-exhaustable fiber needs to include a composite fiber having crimps in which polymers having different physical properties are combined in a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath-core type. Here, polymers having different physical properties are different in elastic recovery, heat shrinkage, plastic deformation, and the like.
In addition, the non-extracted fibers already have crimps in the state of the fabric, and even under the restraint by the fabric structure, the occurrence of further crimps by heat treatment such as dyeing is good, and the stretchability of the fabric, the feeling of swelling, It is advantageous for improving softness.
Furthermore, it is preferable that the non-extruded fibers have the number of crimps without heat treatment ≧ the number of crimps with heat treatment × 0.5. If the number of crimps is within this range, the processing stability is likely to be improved.

  In addition, the non-extracted fiber used in the present invention does not necessarily have a relaxation process because it does not necessarily require a relaxation treatment for the expression of crimp because the crimp has already developed in the state of the fabric before the removal process. Sufficient stretchability can be obtained while having a feeling of swelling even under processing conditions such as polyurethane elastic fiber knitting and tricot swimwear. In addition, the relaxation treatment is effective in order to use the untwisting torque when twisted, and to release the strain at the time of weaving and knitting, and can be performed as necessary.

As the composite fiber in which the polymer having different physical properties of the present invention is composited in a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath-core type, as long as the elastic recovery, heat shrinkage, plastic deformation and the like are different, even if the same kind of polymers are used, It may be a combination of different polymers.
For example, the composite fiber which consists of a polyethylene terephthalate polymer from which intrinsic viscosity differs, and the combination of polymers from which intrinsic viscosity differs, such as a polyethylene terephthalate and a polybutylene terephthalate, a polyethylene terephthalate, and a polytrimethylene terephthalate, are mentioned.

In particular, polyoxyethylene is a composite fiber in which a high intrinsic viscosity block copolymer composed of a polytetramethylene terephthalate component and a polyoxytetramethylene glycol component and a low intrinsic viscosity polyethylene terephthalate having a viscosity difference of 0.5 or more are combined side by side. It is preferable that the ratio of tetramethylene glycol is 5% by mass to 50% by mass in that sufficient crimp is developed in the state of the fabric before the removal process.
The composite fiber constituting the fabric for discharging according to the present invention may be crimped at the raw yarn stage or may be crimped by heat treatment. Good.
In addition, the content of the composite fiber having crimps in which the pomeres having different physical properties are combined in the side-by-side type or the eccentric sheath-core type in the non-extracted fiber is preferably in the range of 40% by mass to 100% by mass.

  In the present invention, the paste containing an extractant is not particularly limited, and known pastes are used. Natural, processed, such as wheat starch, tragacanth gum, locust bean gum, polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, etc. Semi-synthetic and synthetic pastes can be used alone or in admixture of two or more.

  In the present invention, as a discharging agent used for the discharging process of the discharging cloth, as long as the non-extracting fiber is less damaged and the discharging fiber is discharged, aluminum nitrate, sodium sulfate, Known discharging agents such as polyhydric alcohol ethylene oxide adduct obtained by adding 2 mol or more of ethylene oxide to polyhydric alcohol, polyhydric alcohol ethylene oxide adduct and quaternary ammonium salt can be used. When polyhydric alcohol ethylene oxide adduct added with 2 mol or more of ethylene oxide and quaternary ammonium salt are used, damage to non-extracting fibers is small, and polyamide fibers and cellulose fibers can be used as non-extracting fibers, which is particularly preferable. .

  Moreover, as for the fabric for a discharging process of this invention, the paste containing a discharging agent should just adhere to arbitrary patterns, and arbitrary design expression and a different color expression are possible.

Next, a method for producing a discharge-processed fabric using the above-described discharge-processed fabric will be described.
In the present invention, it is necessary to heat-treat the discharging fabric and then perform a hot water treatment with an aqueous NaOH solution to dissolve and remove the discharging fibers in the discharging paste printing part.
The heat treatment of the fabric for removal processing is necessary for sufficiently discharging the polyester fiber modified with the third component having an alkali metal sulfonic acid group, and is dry heat treatment at 190 ° C. or superheated steam at 170 to 180 ° C. Treatment conditions are preferred. Moreover, the hot water treatment of the NaOH aqueous solution for dissolving and removing the extraction fibers printed with the extraction paste uses a hot aqueous solution having a hot water temperature of 70 ° C. to 100 ° C. and an NaOH concentration of 5 to 15 g / l. It is preferable to carry out the removal processing fabric in a bath while shaking for 30 to 60 minutes.

Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. In addition, evaluation of each characteristic value in an Example was implemented with the following method.
(Measurement of intrinsic viscosity [η] of polymer)
The polymer was dissolved in a 1: 1 mixed solvent of phenol and tetrachloroethane and measured at 25 ° C. with an Ubbelohde viscometer.
(Number of crimps without heat treatment)
The measurement was performed according to JIS L1015 except that no heat treatment was performed. However, the measurement was carried out after leaving the yarn unwound from Pahn left undisturbed at 20 ° C. and humidity 65% RH for 72 hours or more.
(Number of crimps with heat treatment)
Measurement was performed in accordance with JIS L1015. However, the heat treatment was performed according to the following method. In addition, the measurement was performed after leaving the yarn unwound from Pahn left unattended at 20 ° C. and humidity 65% RH for 72 hours or more.
Heat treatment condition: Double the composite fiber that was crushed 5 times with a measuring instrument, apply a load of 0.0147 mN / Tex, hang it on the stand, let it stand for 30 minutes, then put it in boiling water while maintaining its state 30 Treated for minutes and then air dried.

[Example 1]
A regular false twisting process was performed on an 84 dtex x 48 filament triangular section yarn made of a polymer obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 2.25 mol% 5-Na sulfoisophthalic acid and 5 mol% adipic acid at a false twisting temperature of 160 ° C. The air-blended fibers of the extracted fiber and 33 dtex × 12 filament 66 nylon triangular cross section were used for the front. On the back, a block copolymer having [η] of 1.29 and a polyethylene of [η] of 0.51 comprising 70% by mass of a polytetramethylene terephthalate component and 30% by mass of a polyoxytetramethylene glycol component as non-exhaustable fibers A 28 gauge half of a tricot knitting machine was knitted using a composite fiber of 56 dtex × 12 filaments in which a terephthalate polymer was bonded side-by-side at a composite ratio of 1/1. The number of crimps of this composite fiber without heat treatment was 23.3 / 25 mm, and the number of crimps with heat treatment was 22.6 / 25 mm.

The obtained tricot knitted fabric was expanded and passed through a continuous scouring in a boiling water scouring bath, and subsequently subjected to an intermediate set at 190 ° C. Then, the following discharge paste was printed on the flower pattern, dried at 110 ° C for 2 minutes, and then pulled out. A fabric for erosion processing was obtained. Crimps were developed in the non-extracted fibers used for the back.
Next, dry heat treatment was performed at 190 ° C for 2 minutes, then washed with hot water, drained with NaOH 10g / l aqueous solution at 80 ° C for 30 minutes, washed with water, neutralized with weak acid, and dyeing was performed under the following conditions. did. As a result, the surface was dyed with red and blue different colors with a cationic dye and an acid dye, and the excised floral pattern portion had 66 nylon fibers dyed red and crimped fibers not dyed. A tricot knitted fabric excellent in clear translucency and excellent in design and stretchability was obtained.
(Exhausting paste)
Glycerin ethylene oxide 10 mol adduct 10 parts Quaternary ammonium salt * 2.5 parts Fine gum G17 (Dye made by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.) 6 parts Water 81.5 parts * [C ₁₂ H ₂₅ N (CH _{2 C 6 H 5) (CH} 2 CH 2 O) m H] (CH 2 CH 2 O) n H)] + Cl- ( mixed products m + n = 2~8)
(Dyeing conditions)
Cathilon Blue CD-FBLH
(Cationic dye manufactured by Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1% owf
Kayanol Red NB (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd. acid dye) 0.5% owf
Catillon Salt W New Conch (Precipitating agent manufactured by Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1% owf
100 ° C x 40 minutes

[Comparative Example 1]
Knitting, discharge processing, and dyeing under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that 44 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn (product name: Lycra) manufactured by Toray DuPont Co., Ltd. was used instead of the non-exhaust fiber of Example 1. As a result of processing, the polyurethane elastic yarn became brittle and yellowed due to poor feeling of swelling. Further, the color of the non-excavated portion was also yellowish as compared with Example 1.

[Example 2]
A warp yarn with 33 dtex x 12 filament round cross section made of polyethylene terephthalate homopolymer and S-twisted 1500 T / M, and then steamed at 80 ° C for 40 min. 56 dtex, which is a composite spinning of side-by-side 1: 1 of a high-shrinkage copolyester mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8 mol% of isophthalic acid, which is a carnivorous fiber, and a polyester consisting essentially of ethylene terephthalate units. A 12-filament crimped composite fiber subjected to S twist 1200 T / M twist and subjected to steam treatment at 80 ° C. for 40 minutes, and the extracted fiber used in Example 1 to S twist 120 T / M A plain woven fabric was woven using what was twisted with M.
The plain woven fabric was subjected to a scouring relaxation process for 60 minutes with hot water at 110 ° C., an intermediate set of 190 ° C. was applied, and then the same discharging paste as in Example 1 was printed on the flower pattern and dried at 110 ° C. for 2 minutes. A fabric for pitting and drainage processing was obtained. Crimps appeared in the non-extracted fibers.
Subsequently, dry heat treatment was performed at 190 ° C. for 2 minutes, followed by washing with hot water, followed by degassing treatment with an aqueous solution of NaOH 10 g / l at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes, followed by washing with water and neutralizing and washing with a weak acid. As a result, there was obtained a discharge-processed cloth having excellent stretchability in the weft direction and excellent clear translucency in the pattern having some stretch in the warp direction. The raw machine was processed with a warp density of 73 / 吋, a weft density of 95 / 吋, a finished warp density of 115 / 吋, and a weft density of 105 / 吋.

[Comparative Example 2]
A fabric for a discharge process was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 2 except that the following discharge agent was printed as the discharge paste. Crimps appeared in the non-extracted fibers.
Subsequently, the same process as Example 2 was performed except having processed NaOH aqueous solution at normal temperature. As a result, there existed portions where the extracted fibers were not sufficiently removed, and the pattern of the printed portion did not appear clearly, and the product was inferior.
(Exhausting paste)
NaOH 25 parts SRK Paste C (Furukawa Chemical Co., Ltd.) 70 parts Water 5 parts

Claims (3)

  A composite fiber (2) having crimps in which a polymer having different physical properties is combined with a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath-core type, and a discharge fiber (1) including a polyester fiber modified with a third component having an alkali metal sulfonic acid group The fabric for the discharge process which is comprised from the non-exhaust fiber containing this and to which the paste containing a discharge agent adheres. The fabric for discharging according to claim 1, wherein the composite fiber of (2) satisfies the following formula.
Number of crimps without heat treatment ≧ Number of crimps with heat treatment × 0.5   A heat-treating process for the fabric for discharging according to claim 1 or 2, followed by hot water treatment with an aqueous NaOH solution to dissolve and remove the discharged fibers in the discharging paste printing part. Production method.