JP2002114627A - Solid cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To prepare a solid cosmetic excellent in shape retainability, feeling when applied and makeup sustainability. SOLUTION: This solid cosmetic is characterized by comprising (a) a Fischer- Tropsch wax with an average molecular weight of 300-1,200 and (b) at least one kind selected from (b-1) esters each made from disproportionated rosin and/or hydrogenated rosin, a fatty acid and a polyhydric alcohol and (b-2) dimethylpolysiloxanes of formula I (wherein, (t) is an integer of 4-650).

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic. More specifically, the present invention relates to a solid cosmetic having excellent shape retention, feeling during use (expansion upon application), and excellent makeup.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Representative solid cosmetics include lipsticks, lip balms, foundations, pencil-type cosmetics, and hair sticks.

[0003] Of these solid cosmetics, those of the oil type are conventionally known as waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, hardened animal oil, hardened vegetable oil, beeswax, castor oil, jojoba oil and squalane. Powders have been used in a mixed system with liquid oils such as lanolin, various synthetic ester oils, silicone oils, and liquid paraffin.

[0004]

In the above oil-based solid cosmetics, by adjusting the mixing ratio of wax and liquid oil, the performance required for the products of the solid cosmetics, that is, the shape retention property However, it is very difficult to satisfy these feelings at the same time.

The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide an oily solid cosmetic which is excellent in shape retention, feeling of use, and makeup.

[0006]

That is, the present invention provides:
(A) a Fischer-Tropsch wax having an average molecular weight of 300 to 1200, (b) (b-1) an ester comprising a disproportionated rosin and / or a hydrogenated rosin, a fatty acid and a polyhydric alcohol, and (b-2) the following formula ( I)

[0007]

Embedded image (Wherein, t represents an integer of 4 to 650), and one or more selected from dimethylpolysiloxanes represented by the formula (1).

In the above, the amount of the component (a) is 0.1%.
It is preferably from 1 to 50% by weight.

In the above, it is preferable that the compounding amount of the component (b) is 0.1 to 99% by weight.

In the above, the component (b-1) is preferably tri (hydrogenated rosin / isostearic acid) glyceryl.

[0011]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The Fischer-Tropsch wax as the component (a) used in the present invention is a waxy hydrocarbon produced by the Fischer-Tropsch process. In the present invention, the molecular weight is 300 to 1200, preferably 300 to 1200.
1100, particularly preferably 400 to 700 is used. If the molecular weight is less than 300, the solidifying power of the oil will be low, while if it is more than 1200, the melting point will be too high to make the production difficult, which is not preferable. The component (a) is specifically “paraflint C77”, “paraflint C80”,
It is commercially available as "Paraflint H1" (all of which are manufactured by Schumann-Sazor AG) and the like, and these can be preferably used.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, the amount of the component (a) is
It is appropriately determined according to the intended use of the solid cosmetic,
Usually, it is preferably about 0.1 to 50% by weight, particularly about 1 to 30% by weight, based on the total amount of the solid cosmetic. 0.
If the amount is less than 1% by weight, the material becomes extremely soft and may not endure use as a product, while if it exceeds 50% by weight, the product may be too hard to endure use.

In the component (b) used in the present invention,
The ester as the component (b-1) is generally obtained by disproportionating or hydrogenating rosin and then esterifying it with a fatty acid together with a fatty acid. As the ester, for example, the following compounds described in Japanese Patent No. 2072948 are preferably used.

That is, rosin is a resin obtained from pine wood, and contains resin acid as a main component and a small amount of unsaponifiable compounds (for example, hydrocarbons such as monoterpenes, diterpenes, and triterpenes, alcohols, and aldehydes). Such)
including. The obtained rosin may be used as it is, or a purified rosin from which the unsaponifiable material has been removed may be used.

Although the disproportionation reaction is not limited to a specific method, it is generally carried out at a high temperature of about 200 to 300 ° C. using a catalyst such as palladium, nickel and iodine. The contained abietic acid is disproportionated to dehydroabietic acid, dihydroabietic acid and tetrahydroabietic acid.

The hydrogenation reaction is not limited to any particular method, but it is generally carried out using a metal catalyst such as palladium, platinum or nickel at room temperature to about 300 ° C., for example, by converting abietic acid to dihydroabietic acid or tetrahydrogen. Hydrogenates to abietic acid. The reaction conditions vary depending on the presence or absence of a solvent and the substance used, but the hydrogen pressure is 10 to 3000 N / cm.
Do about ²

The disproportionated rosin or hydrogenated rosin thus obtained may be used as it is, or may be used after further purification. For example, dehydroabietic acid, dihydroabietic acid, and tetrahydroabietic acid may be isolated and used.

As a purification method, a general method can be used. For example, distillation, recrystallization, solvent extraction, column chromatography, and the like. The distillation is performed under reduced pressure, preferably at about 670 Pa or less. Recrystallization is preferably a method in which disproportionated rosin or hydrogenated rosin is converted into an amine salt, purified with an appropriate solvent such as ethanol, and then returned to an acid.However, it is simply heated and dissolved in a solvent, and then cooled to precipitate. The crystals may be filtered.

One or more disproportionated rosins or hydrogenated rosins can be used.

Examples of the fatty acid include a saturated linear fatty acid having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, a linear monoene fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, a saturated branched fatty acid having 6 to 36 carbon atoms, and a hydroxy having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Fatty acids.

Examples of the saturated linear fatty acid having 6 to 22 carbon atoms include caproic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid,
Examples include capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and behenic acid.

Examples of the straight-chain monoene fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms include palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, and erucic acid.

Examples of the saturated branched fatty acid having 6 to 36 carbon atoms include 2-ethylbutanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 2-butyloctanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, 2-hexyldecanoic acid, 2-heptylundecanoic acid, and methyl-branched fatty acids. Isostearic acid such as isostearic acid having
-Decyltetradecanoic acid;

Examples of the hydroxy fatty acid having 8 to 18 carbon atoms include fatty acids such as 12-hydroxystearic acid, ricinoleic acid, and 9,10-dihydroxystearic acid.

One or more fatty acids can be used.

The polyhydric alcohol is a dihydric or higher polyhydric alcohol.

As the dihydric alcohol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,
Tripropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, tributylene glycol, polybutylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,6 -Hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol, neopentyl glycol, 1,2-hexanedecanediol and the like.

As the trihydric alcohol, glycerin, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, 1,
2,6-hexanetriol and the like.

Examples of the alcohol having a valency of 4 or more include pentaerythritol, diglycerin, triglycerin, tetraglycerin, hexaglycerin, polyglycerin, dipentaerythritol, and polyvinyl alcohol.

One or more polyhydric alcohols can be used.

By subjecting the disproportionated rosin and / or hydrogenated rosin to an esterification reaction between a fatty acid and a polyhydric alcohol, an ester as the component (b-1) is obtained.

The esterification reaction may be a dehydration reaction of an acid and a polyhydric alcohol by heating, or an acid may be converted to an acid chloride and reacted with the polyhydric alcohol. Further, the acid may be reacted with a chloride of a polyhydric alcohol.
Of course, the invention is not limited to these methods.

The degree of esterification may be a total ester or a partial ester. That is, it is only necessary that two or three or more hydroxyl groups in the polyhydric alcohol are esterified.
Specific representative esters are exemplified.

Mono-disproportionated rosin ethylene glycol monocaproate, mono-proportionated rosin ethylene glycol monocaprate, mono-hydrogenated rosin mono-myristate ethylene glycol, mono-hydrogenated rosin mono-palmitate ethylene glycol, mono-hydrogenated rosin mono Ethylene glycol oleate, mono hydrogenated rosin mono 2-ethyl butyrate ethylene glycol, mono hydrogenated rosin mono 2-ethyl hexanoate ethylene glycol, mono disproportionated rosin triethylene glycol monooleate, mono hydrogenated rosin mono 2-
Triethylene glycol ethylbutanoate, mono-hydrogenated rosin polyethylene glycol monoelsinate, mono-disproportionated rosin mono 2-propylene glycol ethyl monohexanoate, glycerol mono-disproportionated rosin mono-oleate, mono-disproportionated rosin mono oleate 2- Glycerol ethylhexanoate, glycerol dihydrogenated rosin monoisostearate (methyl branch), glycerol monotetrahydroabietic acid monoisostearate mono-12-hydroxystearate, mono-2 heptyl monotetrahydroabietic acid-glyceryl undecanoate glyceryl monooleate, monodehydro Abietic acid monolaurate glycerol monooleate, monohydrogenated rosin monoglycerin diglycerin, didehydroabietic acid diricinoleate diglycerin, diproportionation Gin mono 2-heptylundecanoic acid trimethylolpropane, dihydrogenated rosin diisostearate (methyl branched) pentaerythritol, dihydrogenated rosin diisostearate mono-2-decyltetradecanoate dipentaerythritol, monodehydroabietic acid mono 9,10-dihydroxy Polyglycerin stearate; tri (hydrogenated rosin / isostearic acid) glyceryl;

The component (b-1) used in the present invention preferably has a viscosity of about 500 to 2000 cSt (25 ° C .; hereinafter the same), more preferably about 500 to 1500 cSt. As the component (b-1), tri (hydrogenated rosin / isostearate) glyceryl (viscosity 7)
00 to 1000 cSt) and the like are preferably used.

The dimethylpolysiloxane as the component (b-2) has the following formula (I)

[0038]

Embedded image It is represented by In the formula, t represents an integer of 4 to 650, and preferably represents an integer of 4 to 350. The viscosity of the component (b-2) is about 2.5 to 5000 cSt, and particularly preferably about 2.5 to 1000 cSt. If the viscosity is too low, the shape retention will be poor, while if the viscosity is too high, the spread during application will be heavy, which is not preferred.

The component (b) includes the component (b-1) and the component (b)
-2) One or more of the components can be used.

The compounding amount of the component (b) is preferably about 0.1 to 99% by weight based on the total amount of the solid cosmetic of the present invention, and particularly preferably 1 to 99% by weight.
About 90% by weight.

The solid cosmetic of the present invention may contain, if necessary, other waxes, other oils, humectants, preservatives, oxidizing agents, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired, in addition to the above essential components. Inhibitors, ultraviolet absorbers, polymers, surfactants, dyes,
Pigments, powders, drugs, alcohols, solvents, fragrances, and the like are appropriately blended, and can be produced by a conventional method according to the desired product form.

The solid cosmetic product of the present invention may be in the form of a product
For example, makeup cosmetics such as lipstick, lip gloss, lip balm, foundation and eye shadow, and hair cosmetics such as a hair stick and pomade can be mentioned.

The solid cosmetic of the present invention comprises the component (a)
By using the component (b) in combination, it is possible to exhibit excellent effects on shape retention, feeling of use, and makeup. The reason is not clear, but is presumed as follows. In other words, solid cosmetics composed of wax and oil are generally considered to have fine crystals of wax connected to each other in a network to form a skeleton, containing oil therein, and keeping the whole solid. Have been. It is said that the structure of the mixture is determined by the crystal structure and size of the wax, the type of oil, and the like. It is presumed that the structure of the wax-oil mixture according to the constitution of the present invention is optimal for shape retention, feeling of use, and makeup.

[0044]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following Examples, which should not be construed as limiting the present invention. Unless otherwise specified, the amount is shown in% by weight.

(Production method) In the formulations shown in the following Tables 1 to 14, the components (a) and (b), and other additional components such as coloring agents, antioxidants and fragrances were added and heated to 120 ° C. And stirred well to make it uniform. This was poured into a predetermined mold or container, cooled and solidified to produce a solid cosmetic, which was used as an evaluation sample.

In Tables 1 to 14, "Fischer-Tropsch wax ^(*) " refers to "Paraflint C77" (average molecular weight: 530) and "Fischer-Tropsch wax".
^(**) ”is“ Paraflint C80 ”(average molecular weight 630)
For "Fischer-Tropsch wax ^(***) ", "paraflint H1" (average molecular weight 1060) was used.

[Retainability] Evaluation was made visually. (Evaluation criteria) ：: Excellent in solidification (excellent solid form) ○: Somewhat excellent in solidification (somewhat excellent solid form) △: Poor in solidification (paste form) ×: Very poor in solidification (liquid form)

[Usability (Expansion at the time of application)] A professional panel (20 persons) was actually used, and the following five-level sensory evaluation (score) was performed. The average value of the scores was determined, and judged based on the following evaluation criteria. (Score) 5 points: Light spread at application 4 points: Light spread at application 3 points: Normal spread at application 2 points: Spread at application slightly heavy 1 point: Heavy at application (Evaluation criteria) ：: Score (average value) 4.0 to 5.0 points ○: Score (average value) 3.0 to 4.0 points △: Score (average value) 2.0 to 3.0 points × : Score (average value) 1.0 to 2.0

[Cosmetic Mochi] A professional panel (20 persons) was actually used, and the following five-level sensory evaluation (score) was performed. The average value of the scores was determined, and judged based on the following evaluation criteria. (Score) 5 points: Makeup is good 4 points: Makeup is slightly good 3 points: Makeup is normal 2 points: Makeup is slightly bad 1 point: Makeup is bad (Evaluation criteria) ◎: Score (average value) ) 4.0 to 5.0 points ○: Score (average value) 3.0 to 4.0 points △: Score (average value) 2.0 to 3.0 points ×: Score (average value) 1.0 to 2.0 points (Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1 and 2) Lipstick

[0050]

[Table 1]

(Examples 4 to 7) Lipstick

[0052]

[Table 2]

Example 8 Lip Cream

[0054]

[Table 3]

(Examples 9 and 10) Foundation

[0056]

[Table 4]

(Example 11) Eyebrow pencil

[0058]

[Table 5]

(Example 12) Hair stick

[0060]

[Table 6]

(Examples 13 to 15, Comparative Examples 3 to 5) Lipstick

[0062]

[Table 7]

(Examples 16 to 19) Lipstick

[0064]

[Table 8]

Example 20 Lip Cream

[0066]

[Table 9]

(Examples 21 and 22) Foundation

[0068]

[Table 10]

(Example 23) Eyebrow pencil

[0070]

[Table 11]

Example 24 Hair Stick

[0072]

[Table 12]

(Example 25) Lipstick

[0074]

[Table 13]

In Table 13, "Non-aqueous polymer dispersion A" was prepared as follows. That is, methyl methacrylate monomer 15% by weight, ethyl acrylate monomer 25% by weight, polymerization initiator 0.1
5% by weight of a dispersion stabilizer dimethylpolysiloxane graft polymer (molecular weight: about 150,000) was added to 54.9% by weight of a dispersion medium decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
Polymerization was carried out by stirring at 10 ° C. for 10 hours. Then, after performing a demonomerization treatment under reduced pressure, cooling to 25 ° C.
A non-aqueous polymer dispersion A using a volatile silicone dispersion medium having a milky white appearance and an average particle diameter of the dispersed polymer particles of 1 μm was obtained.

(Example 26) Lipstick

[0077]

[Table 14]

[0078]

As described above in detail, according to the present invention, there is provided a solid cosmetic which is excellent in shape retention, feeling of use, and makeup.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) A61K 7/06 A61K 7/06 F term (Reference) 4C083 AA122 AB172 AB232 AB242 AB432 AB442 AC011 AC012 AC022 AC352 AC372 AC422 AC472 AC792 AD022 AD151 AD152 AD162 AD172 AD492 AD512 AD531 AD532 CC12 CC13 CC14 CC32 DD11 DD21 DD31 EE01 EE06 EE07

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. An ester comprising (a) a Fischer-Tropsch wax having an average molecular weight of 300 to 1200, (b) (b-1) a disproportionated rosin and / or a hydrogenated rosin, a fatty acid and a polyhydric alcohol, 2) The following formula (I) Wherein, in the formula, t represents an integer of 4 to 650, one or more selected from dimethylpolysiloxanes. 2. The solid cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the component (a) is 0.1 to 50% by weight. 3. The solid cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the component (b) is 0.1 to 99% by weight. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the component (b-1) is tri (hydrogenated rosin / isostearic acid) glyceryl.
The solid cosmetic according to any one of the above.