JP2005132729A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To prepare a cosmetic having a good moist (emollient) feeling in a wide range of cosmetic fields such as a cream, a milky lotion, a lipstick or an ointment by formulating a mixed fatty acid ester having excellent water hydration properties with the cosmetic. <P>SOLUTION: This cosmetic is obtained by formulating the mixed fatty acid ester prepared by carrying out an esterification reaction of a polyglycerol having 2-15 average degree of polymerization calculated from the hydroxyl value with a dimer acid of a 36C aliphatic dibasic acid and a 12-22C saturated fatty acid and/or a 12-22C unsaturated fatty acid. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic containing a mixed fatty acid ester having excellent water repellency.

Conventionally, oil-based raw materials have been widely used as the main raw materials for cosmetics, and are used as important ingredients in creams and emulsions for the purpose of suppressing the transpiration of moisture from the skin and improving the feeling of use. Oily raw materials include natural oil components such as vegetable oils and animal oils, these fats and oils, higher alcohols and higher fatty acids refined and separated from waxes, hydrocarbon oils obtained by fractional purification of petroleum crude oils, or synthesized esters There is oil. Among them, lanolin has been evaluated as an oil agent with good skin protection due to its excellent water repellency and skin affinity, and has been used in many cosmetics including basic cosmetics and makeup cosmetics. However, it has drawbacks as a cosmetic raw material in terms of hue and odor. In addition, since it is a natural product, there are problems such as inconsistent quality and acidification over a long period of time. For this reason, lanolin derivatives have been developed in which some of the constituents of lanolin are extracted or reacted with other substances, but the water-holding property, which is the greatest characteristic of lanolin, has been impaired. . Therefore, alternative materials for lanolin have been developed. For example, Patent Literatures 1 and 2 describe several water-containing oil agents. However, among these, there is no description of an oil agent having a high water holding performance exceeding the water holding rate of lanolin and derived from plants.
JP 11-246354 A JP 2002-255738 A

  The problem to be solved by the present invention is to develop an oily raw material having a high water holding property equal to or higher than that of lanolin, and to provide a cosmetic containing this oily raw material.

  As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found that a mixed fatty acid ester obtained by esterifying a specific polyglycerin and a specific fatty acid can solve the above problems, and It came to be completed. That is, the present invention relates to polyglycerin having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 15 calculated from the hydroxyl value, dimer acid of an aliphatic dibasic acid having 36 carbon atoms, saturated fatty acid and / or unsaturated fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. It is related with the cosmetics which mix | blend the mixed fatty acid ester obtained by esterifying.

  By blending the mixed fatty acid ester having excellent water-holding property of the present invention with a cosmetic, a cosmetic with a good moist feeling can be obtained. The mixed fatty acid ester of the present invention can also be used as an alternative raw material for lanolin.

  The present invention is described in detail below.

  The polyglycerin having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 15 used in the mixed fatty acid ester of the present invention is a polyglycerin having an average degree of polymerization calculated from the hydroxyl value of 2 to 15, preferably 2 to 10.

  The dimer acid, which is an aliphatic dibasic acid having 36 carbon atoms, used for the mixed fatty acid ester of the present invention is not particularly limited, and the dimer acid pure content obtained using an unsaturated fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms as a raw material is 70. % Or more, preferably 80% or more. The dimer acid content in the mixed fatty acid used for esterification is 10 to 70% by weight, preferably 20 to 50% by weight. Outside the above range, the desired water retention cannot be exhibited.

  Further, the saturated fatty acid and / or unsaturated fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, which is a fatty acid to be mixed, is not particularly limited. , Linoleic acid, erucic acid and the like, and one or more of these are used. In the mixed fatty acid used for esterification, the content of saturated fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or unsaturated fatty acid is 30 to 90% by weight, preferably 40 to 80% by weight. Outside the above range, the desired water retention cannot be exhibited.

  The esterification rate of the mixed fatty acid with respect to the polyglycerol of the present invention is 70 to 100%, preferably 90 to 100%. A cosmetic compounded with a mixed fatty acid ester having an esterification rate of less than 70% is sticky and has poor usability.

  The manufacturing method of the mixed fatty acid ester of this invention can be performed with the following method. A predetermined amount of mixed fatty acid is charged into polyglycerin. In this case, it does not matter whether each fatty acid is mixed and then charged into polyglycerin or each fatty acid is charged into polyglycerin one by one as long as a predetermined amount of each fatty acid is finally charged. Next, after adding an alkali catalyst such as sodium hydroxide to the polyglycerin charged with the mixed fatty acid, an esterification reaction is carried out according to a conventional method under normal pressure or reduced pressure. A cosmetic comprising the mixed fatty acid ester of the present invention can be prepared by a known cosmetic preparation method using the mixed fatty acid ester obtained by the above esterification reaction.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example demonstrate this invention concretely, the scope of the present invention is not limited by these Examples.

<Example 1>
The mixed fatty acid ester was synthesized as follows. In addition, all the polyglycerol and fatty acid used for the Example and the comparative example are plant origin products.
A mixed fatty acid consisting of 100 g of diglycerin, 213 g of behenic acid, 340 g of oleic acid, and 172 g of dimer acid is put in a reaction vessel, 0.2 g of sodium hydroxide is added, and then under a nitrogen stream at 250 ° C. for 10 hours. Reaction was performed to obtain 782 g of mixed fatty acid ester.

<Example 2>
A mixed fatty acid consisting of 100 g of diglycerin, 107 g of behenic acid, 340 g of oleic acid, and 345 g of dimer acid was placed in a reaction vessel and reacted under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain 842 g of a mixed fatty acid ester.

<Comparative example 1>
The mixed fatty acid ester was synthesized as follows.
100 g of diglycerin, 427 g of behenic acid and 340 g of oleic acid were put in a reaction vessel and reacted under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain 823 g of a mixed fatty acid ester.

<Comparative example 2>
100 g of diglycerin and 679 g of oleic acid were put in a reaction vessel and reacted under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain 736 g of a fatty acid ester.

(Water retention test)
While stirring 1 g of the sample obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples and 9 g of petroleum jelly, water was gradually added dropwise until water was removed, and the amount of water held in the sample (10 g) was expressed in percentage. Indicated. The measurement results are shown in Table 1. It can be seen that the mixed fatty acid esters of Examples 1 and 2 have a water retention rate of about 200% higher than that of lanolin and are excellent in water retention. On the other hand, the esterified products of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were insufficient (inferior to lanolin) in terms of water retention.

(Preparation of cosmetics)
Various cosmetics were prepared by blending the mixed fatty acid esters of Examples and Comparative Examples. In addition, the blending ratio and the preparation method of cosmetics were described in the following blending examples 1 to 4 and blending comparative examples 1 and 2. In addition, 20 healthy panelists performed sensory evaluations on usability such as “moist feeling” and “no stickiness”. Evaluation was carried out according to the following absolute evaluation criteria in five levels, and the average value of the scores was determined using a four-level criterion.
・ Absolute evaluation criteria ・ 4-step criteria (rating): (evaluation) (average score): (determination)
5 points: Very good 4.5 points or more: ◎
4 points: Good 4.0 points or more and less than 4.5 points: ○
3 points: Normal 3.0 points or more and less than 4.0 points: △
2 points: Slightly less than 3.0 points: ×
1 point: Defect In addition, each sample was visually observed for 1 month in a thermostatic bath at 50 ° C., and the temporal stability was evaluated according to the following criteria.
・ Standard No change in state: ○
There are state changes such as separation: ×
Table 2 shows the results of sensory evaluation and temporal stability evaluation. The cosmetics of Formulation Examples 1 to 4 were excellent in usability such as “moist feeling” and “no stickiness” and stability over time. On the other hand, the cosmetics of Formulation Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were not satisfactory in terms of usability and stability over time.

(1) Formulation Example 1 Emollient cream phase A (% by weight)
Mixed fatty acid ester of Example 1 5.00
Squalane 7.50
Decaglyceryl monomyristate 2.00
Stearic acid 3.50
Glycerol monostearate 2.00
Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 5.00
Phase B Glycerin 7.00
10% -potassium hydroxide aqueous solution 1.00
Purified water 67.00
Phase A was dissolved at 80 ° C., and phase B heated to 80 ° C. was gradually added to emulsify. After emulsification, the emulsion was cooled to 35 ° C. to obtain an emollient cream.

(2) Formulation Example 2 Milky Lotion Phase A (wt%)
Mixed fatty acid ester of Example 2 2.50
Decaglyceryl monooleate 1.00
Phase B 1% -carboxyvinyl polymer 5.00
10% -potassium hydroxide aqueous solution 1.00
1,3-butylene glycol 5.00
Glycerin 2.00
Purified water 83.50
Phase A was dissolved at 80 ° C., and phase B heated to 80 ° C. was gradually added to emulsify. After emulsification, the mixture was cooled to 35 ° C. to obtain a milky lotion.

(3) Formulation Example 3 Lipstick Phase A (wt%)
Mixed fatty acid ester of Example 1 20.00
Ceresin 23.50
Castor oil 27.00
Liquid paraffin 15.00
Carnauba Arrow 7.00
Candelilla Row 5.00
Phase B titanium oxide 2.00
Red pigment 0.50
A phase A is heated at 80 ° C. and uniformly dissolved, then cooled and uniformly kneaded with a roll mill. Phase B was added thereto and defoamed, then poured into a mold and rapidly cooled to obtain lipstick.

(4) Formulation Example 4 Ointment base A phase (wt%)
Mixed fatty acid ester of Example 2 10.00
Liquid paraffin 13.00
Vaseline 10.00
Cetyl alcohol 10.00
Decaglyceryl monoisostearate3.00
Phase B Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.00
Purified water 53.00
Phase A was dissolved at 80 ° C., and phase B heated to 80 ° C. was gradually added to emulsify. After emulsification, the mixture was cooled to 35 ° C. to obtain an ointment base.

(1) Formulation Comparative Example 1 Emollient Cream Phase A (% by weight)
Mixed fatty acid ester of Comparative Example 1 5.00
Squalane 7.50
Decaglyceryl monomyristate 2.00
Stearic acid 3.50
Glycerol monostearate 2.00
Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 5.00
Phase B Glycerin 7.00
10% -potassium hydroxide aqueous solution 1.00
Purified water 67.00
Phase A was dissolved at 80 ° C., and phase B heated to 80 ° C. was gradually added to emulsify. After emulsification, the emulsion was cooled to 35 ° C. to obtain an emollient cream.

(2) Formulation Comparative Example 2 Milky Lotion Phase A (wt%)
Fatty acid ester of Comparative Example 2.50
Decaglyceryl monooleate 1.00
Phase B 1% -carboxyvinyl polymer 5.00
10% -potassium hydroxide aqueous solution 1.00
1,3-butylene glycol 5.00
Glycerin 2.00
Purified water 83.50
Phase A was dissolved at 80 ° C., and phase B heated to 80 ° C. was gradually added to emulsify. After emulsification, the mixture was cooled to 35 ° C. to obtain a milky lotion.

By blending the mixed fatty acid ester having excellent water-holding property of the present invention with a cosmetic, a cosmetic with a good moist feeling can be obtained. Moreover, the cosmetics containing the mixed fatty acid ester of the present invention have a good moist feeling (emollient) and can be used in a wide range of applications such as creams, milky lotions, lipsticks and ointments.

Claims (1)

A polyglycerin having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 15 calculated from the hydroxyl value is esterified with a dimer acid of an aliphatic dibasic acid having 36 carbon atoms and a saturated fatty acid and / or unsaturated fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Cosmetics containing the mixed fatty acid ester obtained.