GB2595956A - Silicone-free leave-in hair serums comprising a modified polysaccharide and a plant based oil - Google Patents
Silicone-free leave-in hair serums comprising a modified polysaccharide and a plant based oil Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
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Abstract
Silicone-free leave-in hair serums are disclosed comprising: a) a hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride having an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,000,000 to about 3,500,000 g/mol; and b) a plant-based oil. Also disclosed is a method of repairing split ends comprising applying said silicone-free leave-in hair serums to the hair.
Description
SILICONE-FREE LEAVE-IN HAIR SERUMS COMPRISING A MODIFIED
POLYSACCHARIDE AND A PLANT BASED OIL
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular silicone-free leave-in hair serums, comprising a modified polysaccharide and a plant-based oil. The compositions exhibit surprisingly effective long-lasting repair of split ends. The serums may be used in the care of keratin fibres. The invention also relates to a method of repairing split ends comprising applying the silicone-free leave-in hair serum to the hair.
BACKGROUND
[0002] Split ends are a phenomenon that manifest themselves in the hair fibres becoming porous and in splitting of the individual hairs from their ends. Split ends are caused inter alia by severe mechanical stressing of the hair, for example by frequent brushing, back-combing or combing against high combing resistance. High combing resistance in dry hair can be caused by damage to the hair surface, static charging or tackiness attributable to residues of hair sprays. The danger of split ends is also increased by weakening of the hair structure which can be caused by frequent or careless application of chemical treatments, as for example in permanent waving or coloring.
[0003] Accordingly, there has been no shortage of attempts to regenerate hair damaged by split ends by applying suitable preparations, i.e, to stop the advance of split ends and to repair the split hairs.
[0004] Previous attempts to formulate a hair serum that have beneficial split end repair often use silicone-based ingredients to achieve the desired effects. Further, the serums have tended to be heavy formulations that weigh down the hair. The disadvantages of these silicones include the reduced penetration of active ingredients and auxiliaries into the hair due to wetting of the hair surface and the hair styling being hampered by the wetting of the hair surface. Further, due to their persistence in the environment, it is preferable to dispense with the use of cyclomethicones. The provision of low-silicone or silicone-free care products is therefore a relevant task in the field of hair cosmetics. However, silicone-free leave-on products do not always exhibit the same caring properties as silicone-based products, and it is a challenge to formulate cosmetically acceptable formulations at the care levels of silicones, without using silicones. Accordingly, it is desirable to provide a hair serum that is silicone-free and that has enhanced split-end properties.
[0005] The objective is achieved in accordance with the invention by a silicone-free leave-in hair serum comprising: a) hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride having an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,000,000 to about 3,500,000 gimol; and b) and a plant-based oil.
[0006] The serums as disclosed herein surprisingly result in increased care performance of hair formulations, especially with regard to the repair of split hair ends. It was surprisingly found that a combination of a guar as defined herein and a plant-based oil enables semipermanent repair of split hair ends through the use of a leave-in hair serum. Not only are the condition of split ends improved by the use of the inventive combination, but also the full length of the hair is cared for. The serum has the additional advantage that it achieves these objectives without the need for a silicone-based ingredient, and it is provided in a lightweight formulation.
BRIEF SUMMARY
[0007] The object of the present disclosure is solved by the subject-matter of the independent claims, wherein further embodiments are incorporated in the dependent claims.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0008] The following detailed description is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the disclosure or the application and uses of the subject matter as described herein. Furthermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory presented in the preceding background or the following detailed description.
[0009] The present invention also provides a method of repairing split ends comprising applying to the hair a hair serum as defined herein.
[0010] The present invention also provides the use of a hair serum as defined herein for repairing split ends.
100111 The invention summarised above will now be illustrated in further detail [0012] Component (a) in the inventive hair serum is a hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride having an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,000,000 to about 3,500,000 g/mol Preferably, the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,300,000 to about 2,900,000 g/mol. Average molecular weight can be measured by any suitable means, as will be well understood by the skilled person. For example, static light scattering measurements can be performed using Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC). A suitable system is GPC-MALS (multi angle light scattering).
100131 A further characteristic of the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is its viscosity; suitably, the viscosity ranges from about 600 to about 1200 mPa.s, more preferably from about 750 to about 850 mPa.s. In all instances disclosed herein, the viscosity is the Brookfield RVT viscosity measured at about 25°C and about 20 rpm, Spindle 2, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water.
100141 A particularly preferred hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride for use in the present invention is present in the raw material Polycare® Split Therapy, available from Solvay.
100151 The total amount of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride may range from about 0.001 to about 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the serum. The best effects were observed when the amount of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride ranges from about 0.05 to about 3.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the serum, for example from about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, suitably from about 0.1 to about 1 wt%.
10016] Component (b) in the inventive hair serum is a plant-based oil Such oils are suitable for inclusion in a cosmetic and derived from plants. Examples include synthetic derivatives of plant oils, but essential oils derived from plants are preferred.
100171 Suitable plant-based oils may be selected from Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Duleis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Oil, Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil (tsubaki oil), Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Lady's Smock oil, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifoli a Seed Oil, Amaranthus Spinosus Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, bamboo oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil, Mallow oil, Corylus Americana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil, Canola Oil, Sasanqua oil, Simmondsi a Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Rambutan oil, Sclerocarya Bin-ea Seed Oil, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Oil, or mixtures thereof 100181 Suitably, just one plant-based oil is included in the hair serum of the present invention. Alternatively, two or more plant-based oils are included in the hair serum of the present invention.
100191 A preferred oil is Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil. This oil may also be referred to by non-INC1 names such as Grape Seed Oil and Grape Kernel Oil.
[0020] The amount of component b) -the plant-based oil -may range from about 0.0001 to about 10.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the serum. The best effects were observed when the amount of oil ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the serum, for example from about 0.05 to about 5.0 wt%, suitably from about 0.05 to about 3.0 wt%, more suitably from about 0.07 to about 1.0 wt%.
[0021] The hair serum of the present invention preferably comprises a water-alcoholic carrier material. By this is meant a mixture of water and at least one alcohol. The alcohol component in the water-alcoholic carrier material is preferably present in an amount ranging from about 5.0 to about 30.0 wt%, by total weight of the silicone-free leave-in hair serum.
Preferably, the alcohol component in the water-alcoholic carrier material is present in an amount ranging from about 5.0 to about 25.0 wt%, more preferably from about 10.0 to about 20.0 wt% by total weight of the silicone-free leave-in hair serum.
[0022] The alcoholic component of the water-alcoholic carrier material suitably comprises a monoalcohol (such as ethanol, T-Butyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Alcohol), a diol (such as a glycol), a polyol (such as Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin), an aromatic alcohol (such as Benzyl Alcohol) or a mixture thereof Preferred as the alcoholic component of the water-alcoholic carrier material is a Cl -C10 linear or branched monoalcohol, a Cl -C10 linear or branched diol, a polyol an aromatic alcohol or mixtures thereof [0023] Preferably, the alcoholic component of the water-alcoholic carrier material comprises ethanol and optionally at least one other alcohol. Suitably, the alcoholic component of the water-alcoholic carrier material comprises ethanol and glycerin and optionally at least one other alcohol [0024] The person skilled in the art understands that cosmetic products often contain at least one surfactant selected from cationic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and/or nonionic surfactants.
[0025] Suitably, the hair serum defined herein may comprise one or more surfactants selected from: at least one nonionic surfactant; ii) at least one amphoteri c and/or zwitteri oni c surfactant; iii) at least one cationic surfactant, and/or iv) at least one anionic surfactant.
[0026] Nonionic surfactants may have a hydrophilic end which may be charge neutral, such as an ethoxylate, glycoside, or polyol; such surfactants may not be sensitive to water hardness. Suitable nonionic surfactants as contemplated herein include the following: * addition products of from about 4 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or from about 0 to about 5 mol propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms, or fatty acids containing from about 12 to about 22 C atoms or alkyl phenols containing from about 8 to about 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, * addition products of ethylene oxide and polyglycerine with methylglucos de fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, * C8-C30 fatty acid mono-and -diesters of addition products of from about Ito about 30 mol ethylene oxide or glycerin, for example those with the INCI names PEG(1-10) Glyceryl Cocoate, in particular PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate.
* amine oxides, for example at least one compound with general formula (I) or (II) (It
N N
11 R3C CR3 H3C7 CF o in which R respectively represents a linear or branched, saturated or mono-or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing from about 6 to about 24 carbon atoms, for example containing from about 8 to about IS carbon atoms.
o Suitable surfactants are those with the aforementioned formulae (I) or (II) with the INCI names cocamine oxide, lauramine oxide and/or cocamidopropylamine oxide, which are commercially available from a number of different suppliers.
* sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polysorbates, * fatty acid alkanolamides with the following general formula: o in which R suitably represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms and the residues R' represent hydrogen or the group -(CI-12),,O1, in which n represents the numbers from about 2 or about 3, with the proviso that at least one of the residues R' represents the aforementioned residue (CH2)n0H, o in particular those compounds known by the INCI names Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamide M1PA; * C8-C30 fatty acid mono-and di-esters of addition products of from about 4 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or from about 0 to about 5 mol propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms.
* fatty acid esters of sugars and addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid esters of sugar, * addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, * alkyl(oligo)glucosides, for example compounds with general formula RO-[G]x, in which [G] preferably derives from aldoses and/or ketoses containing from about 5 to about 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose o The index x represents the degree of oligomerization (DO), i.e. the distribution of the mono-and oligo-glycosides. The index x preferably has a value in the range from about 1 to about 10, for example in the range from about 1 to about 3, wherein in this regard, it does not have to be a whole number but may be a fractional number which can be determined analytically.
o Suitable alkyl (ol i go)gl y cosi de s have a degree of oligom erizati on of between from about 1.2 and about 1.5.
o The residue R suitably represents at least one alkyl-and/or alkenyl residue containing from about 4 to about 24 C atoms.
o Examples of alkyl(oligo)glucosides are known by the INC1 names caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and coco glucoside, * mixtures of alkyl(oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, * addition products of from about 5 to about 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil or hydrogenated castor oil, for example PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, * partial esters of polyols containing from about 3 to about 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms, * sterols. "Sterols" should be understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxy group on C3 of the steroid backbone and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and also from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols are also isolated from fungi and yeasts; they are known as mycosterols.
* phospholipids. This primarily means glucose-phospolipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from egg yolk or from plant seeds (for example soy ab ean s).
* hydrogenated castor oil 100271 Preferred fatty alcohol ethoxylates are those in which the fatty alcohol portion of the fatty alcohol ethoxylate has an alkyl chain length of C4-C30, preferably C6-C25, preferred C8-C20, and/or in which the number of ethoxy groups in the fatty alcohol ethoxylate is from about 2 to about 120, preferably from about 4 to about 100, more preferably from about 6 to about 80, more preferably from about 8 to about 60, most preferably from about 10 to about 40.
[0028] Preferably, the or each fatty alcohol ethoxylate is selected from ethoxylates of Beheneth, Ceteareth, Ceteth, Pareth, and Deceth, preferably of Ceteareth, more preferably Ceteareth-20. Preferably, the fatty alcohol propoxylate is PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether.
[0029] Another suitable alkoxyl ate is one which is an alkoxylate of a non-fatty alcohol. For example, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate is an alkoxylated derivative of benzyl alcohol, and useful as a nonionic surfactant.
100301 Amphoteric surfactants are understood to be surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cri-C71 alkyl or acyl group, also contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S03H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N- alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-allcyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acids, and alkyl amino acetic acids each having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-coco-alkylaminopropionate, coco-acylaminoethylaminopropionate, and Cu-Cis acyl sarcosine [0031] Surface-active compounds that carry, in the molecule, at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group are referred to as zwitterionic surfactants. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are known as betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coco-alkyl-dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coco-acylaminopropyl -di m ethyl am m oni um glycinate, and 2-alkyl -3 -carboxym ethyl -3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines, each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and also coco-acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Betaine.
100321 Preferably, the hair serum according to the present invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one zwitterionic surfactant.
100331 Cationic surfactants carry a positive charge in their hydrophilic part. This positive charge causes the surfactant molecules to attach themselves to the negatively charged skin and hair surface. In this way they neutralize the charge, prevent hair from flying, have a smoothing effect, increase hair shine and improve wet combability. Primarily they are used in conditioners, hair conditioners and treatments, rarely in shampoos. In addition, cationic surfactants have a co-conservative effect in cosmetic products due to their bactericidal effect, i.e. their bacterial inhibitory effect.
100341 In principle, all cationic surfactants suitable for use on the human body are suitable as cationic surfactants in serums according to the invention. These are characterized by at least one water-solubilizing cationic group, such as for example a quaternary ammonium group, or by at least one water-solubilizing cationizable group, such as for example an amine group and furthermore at least one lipophilic alkyl group having about 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or also by at least one imidazole group or at least one imidazylalkyl group 100351 In general, cationic surfactants are divided into groups according to their structural characteristics. Cationic surfactants a) from at least one of the groups alkylquats, esterquats, quaternary imidazolines, amidoamines and/or cationized amidoamines are particularly suitable for use in the hair serum defined herein.
100361 When present, and regardless of the form of the hair serum, the cationic surfactant is at least one compound selected from the group consisting of the following: i. alkylquats, esterquats, iii. quaternary imidazoline, iv, amidoamines and/or cationized amidoamines and v. mixtures thereof [0037] The cationic surfactant component may comprise at least one compound selected from one or more of the following groups: quaternary ammonium compounds (alkylquats) having at least one C8-C24-alkyl radical, quaternary im dazolines, esterquats, amidoamines each having at least one C8-C24-acyl radical, and mixtures thereof [0038] Particularly preferred quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical are ammonium halides, especially chlorides, and ammonium alkyl sulphates, such as methosulphates or ethosulphates, such as C8-C24 alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, C8-C24 dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and C8-C24 trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride, Steartrimonium Chloride, distearyl di m ethyl ammonium chloride, I auryl di methyl ammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. The alkyl chains of the surfactants mentioned above preferably have 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Preferably, the cationic surfactant component ii) comprises Cetrimonium chloride and/or Behentrimonium Chloride, [0039] When present, the quaternary imidazoline may have the following formula: R16 n-N 0 R 7 X 0 wherein R18 - R16 represents a Cl-C6 alkyl group - R17, R18 independently of one another represent a C7-C27-alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22-alkyl group, and - X-is a physiologically tolerable anion. Suitable such compounds include Quatemium87 (available from Evonik as Van i soft W 575 PG) 100401 Suitable imi dazoli um compounds are known under the INCT names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83, Quatemium-87 and Quatemium-91 A preferred compound is Quatemium-87.
100411 Esterquats are cationic surfactants which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural element and furthermore at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical or C8-C24 acyl radical. The esterquat may have the following formula: ®719 0 X R20 - wherein - R19 and R90 independently of one another represent a Cl-C6-alkyl group or a C2-C6-hydroxyalkyl group, R21, R22 independently of one another represent a C7-C27-alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22-alkyl group, and - X-is a physiologically tolerable anion, 100421 Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quatemized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quatemized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines Such products are marketed under the tradem arks Stepantex0, Dehyquart0 and Armocarea N,N-bi s(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium methosulphates and Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfates are preferred examples of such esterquats, particularly Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate. A further preferred esterquat is Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride. R21 R22
100431 Alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic C8-C24 fatty acids with di-(C2-C3)alkylaminoamines.
Suitable amines may have the following formula: NR23R24R15 wherein - R23, R24 independently of one another represent a Ci-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, and - R25 represents a Cs-C28-alkyl group, preferably a Cm-C22-alkyl group.
10044] The cationic surfactants of the formula NR211t24R75 are amine derivatives, so-called pseudoquats. The organic residues R23, R24 and R25 are directly bound to the nitrogen atom. In the acid pH range these are cationized, i.e the nitrogen atom is then protonated. The physiologically compatible counterions are suitable as counterions. Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine and Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine are particularly preferred as these cationic surfactants.
10045] Anionic surface-active substances that are suitable for use on the human body are suitable as anionic surfactants in the senims according to the invention. These are characterised by a water-soluble-making anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycolether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and also hydroxyl groups can be contained in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps), alkylether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides, acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid monoesters and dialkylesters and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters, linear alkane sulfonates, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates and also alkyl and/or alkenyl phosphates. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkylether sulfates and alkylether carboxylic acids each having 10 to 18 C atoms, preferably 12 to 14 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycolether groups, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups in the molecule. The positively-charged counterion can be selected from any cosmetically-suitable counterion, as well understood by the skilled person. Suitable counterions are alkali metals (preferably sodium or potassium) and ammonium. Examples of such surfactants are the compounds with the INC! names Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Carboxylate. Preferred anionic surfactants are Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate or a mixture thereof.
[0046] A mixture of the following surfactants in the hair serum is particularly advantageous: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate and Betaine [0047] As will be well understood by the skilled person, it is common to include one or more fatty compounds in cosmetic compositions. By fatty compounds are meant fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present in both solid form as well as liquids in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
[0048] The hair serums disclosed herein may comprise as an optional component at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C8-C30 alcohol. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include C12-13 alcohols, C12-15 alcohols, C12-16 alcohols, C14-22 alcohols, C16-17 isoalcohols, C20-22 alcohols, arachidyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, hexyldecycloctadecanol, tetradecyleicosanol, coconut alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol.
[0049] The hair serums disclosed herein may further comprise as an optional component saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C8-C30 carboxylic acids and/or their salts.
[0050] The hair serums disclosed herein may comprise as an optional component: * at least one mono di-or tri-ester of glycerin and a fatty acid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and/or * at least one mono-or di-ester of ethylene glycol and a fatty acid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0051] The C8-C30 component of the fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched. Suitable examples include glyceryl stearate and glycol distearate.
[0052] The total amount of optional fatty compounds that may be included in the serums disclosed herein may range from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 1 to I 3 about 15% by weight, particularly preferably from about 2 to about 10% by weight; in each case based on the weight of the serum.
[0053] The hair serum of the present invention may also comprise at least one fat or oil having a melting point of about 20°C or higher. In the context of a solid fat or oil, "solid" means the compound has a melting point of about 20°C or higher. Suitably, the or each fat or oil has a melting point of about 25°C or higher, or about 30°C or higher. Preferably, such a solid fat or oil is naturally occurring. These are caring substances that help to keep both the skin and hair structure healthy. Naturally occurring raw materials have the advantage that they grow back and can therefore be used sustainably. This aspect is also becoming increasingly important for many users.
[0054] Solid fats and oils include fatty acids (triglycerides); both naturally-derived products and hydrogenated derivatives thereof Also included are fatty acids esterified with glycerin to yield mono-, di-, and triglycerides.
[0055] Preferred solid fats and oils include a solid vegetable oil and/or solid vegetable butter. As already mentioned, naturally occurring raw materials have the advantage that they grow again and can therefore be used sustainably. This aspect is also becoming increasingly important for many users. In addition, some vegetable oils or butters, especially when obtained gently at low temperatures, are extremely potent skin and hair care products, as they also contain a variety of certain secondary ingredients, such as vitamins. Particularly preferred are plant butters with a melting point in the range from about 20°C to about 35°C, such as Shea Butter (INCI designation: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter), Mango Butter (INCI designation: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter), Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter), Murumuru Butter (INCI designation: Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter), Cocoa Butter (INCI designation: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter) and/or Cupuacu Butter (INCI designation: Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil, Japan Wax, Synthetic Japan Wax, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter and mixtures thereof Shea butter (INCI designation: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter) is particularly preferred.
100561 In addition to the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride component a) in the hair serums disclosed herein, one or more additional cationic polymers may also be included in the hair semm. Such cationic polymers have conditioning properties, i.e. they give a pleasant feeling to the skin or hair and thus offer added value. The following polymers are particularly suitable: * quatemized cellulose polymers, especially Polyquatemium-10, as they are commercially available under the names Celquat® and Polymer JR®, * hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example the cationic polymers marketed under the trade name SoftCat®, * cationic alkyl pol ygl ycosi des, * cationized honey, the commercial product Honeyquat® 50, * cationic guar derivatives different to the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropylmimonium chloride component a) used in the inventive serum, such as the products marketed under the trade names Cosmedia0Guar, N-Flance0 and Jaguar®, * polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7 * the products commercially available under the names Merquat®100 (poly(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat®550 (dimethyldi allylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers, * Copolymers of vinylpyn-olidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quatemized with diethyl sulfate. Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquatt734 and Gafquat®755 * vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as offered under the names LuviquatO FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HIVI 552, * quatemated polyvinyl alcohol, * and the polymers known as Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 16, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium 74 and Polyquatemium 89.
10057] Particularly preferred cationic polymers are quatemized cellulose polymers, hydrophobically modified quatemized cellulose polymers, cationic guar derivatives and/or cationic polymers based on acrylic acid (derivative), which are particularly preferably selected from the polymers guar hydroxypropyltrimoni um chloride, Polyquaterni um -6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-37 and/or Polyquaternium-67 known by the INCI designations.
[0058] Other cationic polymers obtained from natural sources (in addition to guar), such as a cationic inulin polymer, are also suitable. Inulin is a polysaccharide that belongs to the group of fructans. In addition to a terminal glucose building block, it comprises up to 60 fructose monomers in the chain, each of which is linked to one another via f3-2,1-glycosidic bonds. Inulin may be obtained from the leaves, roots, fruits and/or flowers of composite and/or umbelliferous plants such as Jerusalem artichokes, artichokes and/or parsnips. Cationic inulin polymers particularly suitable according to the invention are canonically modified by reacting hydroxyl groups of the fructose building blocks with reactive quaternary ammonium compounds. Suitable quaternary ammonium compounds are preferably compounds of the following formula NH(RIR2R3R4) X. in which RI, It? and R3 are methyl or ethyl groups and R4 is an epoxy R5 or a halohydrin group Y-CH2-CH(OH)-R5-, R5 a CI-C3-alkylene group, Y is a halide and Xis an anion such as Cl-, Br, I-or HSO4-Particularly suitable cationic inulin polymers (b) for the purposes of this invention correspond to the formula R-O-CH2-CH(OH)-R5-W( RIR2R3)X-, wherein R is inulin and the other radicals have the same meaning as above.
[0059] Suitable cationic inulin polymers are those that have been cati oni call y modified with cationic hydroxy-Cl-C 3 -al kyl-tri al kyl ammoni um groups, in particular with hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups. Within this design, cationic inulin polymers known under the INCI designation Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin and commercially available are preferred.
[0060] The cationic degree of substitution of cationic inulin polymers, in particular cationic inulins known as hydroxypropyltrimonium inulin (INCI), can be varied and adjusted as required. For the use in the invented cosmetic sertims, it has proved to be particularly preferred if such canonically modified inulin polymers exhibit a higher degree of cationic modification (higher cationic degree of substitution), because this allows better coacervate formation and ultimately better care performance to be achieved in the preparations.
[0061] Suitable cationic inulin polymers have a cationic charge density > 1.5 meq/g, more preferably >2.0 meq/g, especially preferred > 2.5 meq/g, very especially preferred > 3.0 meq/g and especially > 3.5 meq/g. Within this design it is particularly preferred if cationic inulin polymers known under the INCI designation hydroxypropyltrimonium inulin have b) a cationic charge density > 1.5 meq/g, more preferably > 2.0 meq/g, especially preferred > 2.5 meq/g, especially preferred > 3.0 meq/g and especially >3,5 meq/g. Suitable cationic inulin polymers may also have an average molecular weight of from about 2,000 to about 50,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 2,500 to about 40,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 3,000 to about 30,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 3,500 to about 20,000 g/mol and in particular from about 4,000 to about 10,000 g/mol. Within this design it is particularly preferred if cationic inulin polymers known under the INCI designation hydroxypropyltrimonium inulin have n average molecular weight of from about 2,000 to about 50,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 2,500 to about 40,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 3,000 to about 30,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 3,500 to about 20,000 g/mol and in particular from about 4,000 to about 10,000 Wmol.
[0062] Other cationic polymer chosen from cationic polymers of natural origin, preferably cationic polygalactomannan derivatives. Gal actomannan s are polysaccharides consisting of combinations of mannose and galactose monomers in different contents. The mannose units are connected to each other via I3(1-4)-glycosidic bonds; the galactose units via a(1-6)-bonds. The ratio of mannose to galactose monomers varies according to the type and origin of the plant and the temperature at which it grew. In Greek fenugreek gum, the mannose-galactose ratio is about 1:1 (corresponding to a monomer mannose to a monomer galactose); in guar gum, about 2:1; in tara gum, about 3:1; in locust bean gum, about 4:1; and in cassia gum, about 5:1. All galactomannans from these sources are suitable for cationic modification and use as polymers in the invention. Guar gum and/or cassia gum are particularly suitable for use in cosmetic products in accordance with the invention [0063] Like cationic inulin polymers, galactomannans, preferably galactomannans from the above sources, can be cationically modified by reacting the hydroxyl groups of galactomannan polymers with reactive quaternary ammonium compounds. Suitable quaternary ammonium compounds are preferably compounds of the following formula W(12112212; R4) X-in which RI, Ri and R3 are methyl or ethyl groups and IL is an epoxy R5 or a halohydrin group Y-C112-CH(OH)-R5-, R5 is a CI-C3-alkylene group, Y is a halide and Xis an anion such as C1-, Br, or HSO4-. Particularly suitable cationic galactomannan polymers within the meaning of this invention correspond to the formula R-O-CF12-CH(OH)-R5-W( RiR2R3)X-, wherein R represents the respective galactomannan and the other radicals have the same meaning as defined above [0064] Guar and cassia polymers known under the INCI designations guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (different to that used as component (a) in the hair serum disclosed herein) and/or cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride are available from various suppliers, for example under the designations Jaguar®, N-Hance®, Polycare0, Clearhance0, Activsoft0, Guarquat®, Vida-Care®, Jaguar® C-162, Jaguar® C500, Jaguar® Styl 100, N-Hance® 3196, N-Hance® HPCG 1000, Activsoft® C17, Guarquat® C130 KC, Guarquat® CP500 KC, Vida-Care® GHTC and/or Polycare0 Split Therapy are specific examples of cationic polymers of natural origin that are particularly suitable according to the invention [0065] Cationic polymers suitable according to the invention are used in the cosmetic serums according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably in amounts of from about 0.01 to about 3.00 wt.%, more preferably from about 0.02 to about 2.00 wt.%, more preferably from about 0.03 to about 1.00 wt.%, more particularly preferably from about 0.04 to about 0.70 wt.%.
[0066] In addition to the ingredients described above, the hair serums according to the invention may contain at least one active ingredient advantageously selected from the group comprising plant extracts, liquid oils, bitter substances, humectants, perfumes, UV filters, structuring agents such as maleic acid, dyes for staining the serum, active ingredients such as bisabolol and/or allantoin, antioxidants, preservatives such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid, additional viscosity regulators such as salts (NaC1) or polymers, and pH regulators.
[0067] Suitable plant extracts are extracts that can be produced from all parts of a plant.
Usually, these extracts are produced by extracting the entire plant. However, in some cases it may also be preferable to produce extracts exclusively from the flowers and/or leaves of the plant. The most suitable extracts are Paeonia Lactiflora, Rosa Damascena Flower, N4alus Domestica Fruit, Argania Spinosa Shell Powder, Laminaria Saccharina, Cannabis Sativa, Green Tea, Oak Bark, Nettle, Hamamelis, Hops, Camomile, Burdock Root, Horsetail, Hawthorn, Linden Flower, Litchi, Almond, Aloe Vera, Spruce Needle, Horse Chestnut, Sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, Thyme, lemon balm, hemlock, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Boerhavia diffusa roots, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveol ens. The extracts from Paeonia Lactiflora, Rosa Damascena Flower, Malus Domestica Fruit, Argania Spinosa Shell Powder, Laminaria Saccharina, Cannabis Sativa, Green Tea, Nettle, Hamamelis, Camomile, Aloe Vera, Ginseng, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea and/or Boerhavia Diffusa roots are particularly preferred for use in the serums according to the invention. Water, alcohols and their mixtures can be used as extraction agents for the production of the plant extracts mentioned. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol are preferred, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extraction agent and mixed with water. Plant extracts based on water/propylene glycol in a ratio of from about 1:10 to about 10:1 have proven to be particularly suitable. The plant extracts can be used in both pure and diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain approx. 2-80 wt.% active substance and as solvent the extraction agent or mixture of extraction agents used in their extraction. The plant extracts can be used in the hair serums according to the invention (based on the total weight of the product) preferably in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 7.5 % by weight and in particular from about 0.1 to about 5 % by weight.
[0068] Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that are obtained by acid-catalysed, base-catalysed or enzymatically catalysed breakdown of proteins. The term "protein hydrolysates" is understood in accordance with the invention to also mean total hydrolysates and also individual amino acids and derivatives thereof as well as mixtures of different amino acids. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates usable in accordance with the invention lies between about 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and about 200,000 Daltons, and the molecular weight is preferably from about 75 to about 50,000 Daltons, and very particularly preferably from about 75 to about 20,000 Daltons. Preferred protein hydrolysates include Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Pearl and Hydrolyzed Silk.
[0069] As care substance, the hair serum according to the invention can also contain at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and/or one of the derivatives thereof Here, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors that are usually assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred in accordance with the invention. In particular, Niacinami de (Vitamin B3) and Vitamin E (or a derivative thereof) are preferred.
[0070] The hair serum disclosed herein may also include a perfume. Suitably, a perfume is included in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 0.8% by weight, preferably from about 0.2 to about 0.6 %, relative to the weight of the hair serum.
[0071] A bitter substance is particularly important in cosmetics, household products etc., which are made up in such a way that their shape, colour, haptics etc. appeal to small children or babies and encourage them to play, which could also lead to swallowing. A bitter substance prevents this. Denatonium Benzoate is an extremely strong bitter substance and is therefore particularly effective even at very low concentrations. Furthermore, it is not associated with any known adverse effects.
[0072] Under suitable pH control agents, particularly preferred for use in the serums according to the invention are citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, in particular citric acid and/or lactic acid. The pH regulator may also be a base such as alkanolamines and/or sodium hydroxide.
[0073] Other than the plant-based oil component b) in the inventive serum, examples of oils include liquid oils and hydrocarbon oils. The serums disclosed herein are silicone-free so contain no silicone oils, and no silicones in any form. It is particularly preferred that the serums disclosed herein are silicone-free and contain no hydrocarbon oils. Thus, the preferred liquid oils are particularly those of natural origin.
[0074] More generally, by use of the hair serum according to the invention it is possible to dispense with organosilicon compounds, in particular silicones In the context of the present invention, "silicone-free" is taken to mean that the hair serum is free from organosilicon compounds, in particular free from silicones, trisiloxanes, and silicone oils.
[0075] The serum is suitable for the care of human hair, in particular for use after hair cleansing and optionally after hair conditioning as a leave-on serum. The hair serums disclosed herein may also be useful in hair treatments, and hair packs.
[0076] The present specification is also directed to a method of repairing split ends comprising applying to the hair a hair serum according to the invention. The method includes applying the hair serum as disclosed herein to the hair. The method includes dispensing the hair serum as disclosed herein onto the user's hand, and from the user's hand onto the hair. The method may additionally include rubbing the hair. The method may include the user spreading the hair serum on their hand or hands before application to the hair.
[0077] The invention disclosed herein may also be described by the following statements.
1. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum comprising: a. a hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride having an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,000,000 to about 3,500,000 g/mol; and b. a plant-based oil.
2 A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to statement 1, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,200,000 to about 3,000,000 g/mol.
3. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to statement 1 or 2, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,300,000 to about 2,900,000 g/mol.
4 A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,400,000 to about 2,900,000 g/mol.
5. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has a viscosity ranging from about 600 to about 1200 mPa.s.
6. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has a viscosity ranging from about 750 to about 850 mPa.s.
7. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, wherein the amount of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride ranges from about 0.001 to about 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the serum.
8. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, wherein the amount of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride ranges from about 0.05 to about 3.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the serum.
9 A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, wherein the amount of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride ranges from about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, suitably from about 0.1 to about 1 wt%, based on the total weight of the serum 10. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, wherein the plant-based oil component b) comprises Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Oil, Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Glycine Soj a (Soybean) Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil, Sesamum lndicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil (tsubaki oil), Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Lady's Smock oil, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Amaranthus Spinosus Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, bamboo oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil, Mallow oil, Corylus Americana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil, Canola Oil, Sasanqua oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Rambutan oil, Sclerocaiya Birrea Seed Oil, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Oil, or mixtures thereof 11. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, wherein the plant-based oil component b) comprises Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil.
12. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, wherein the total amount of component b) ranges from about 0.0001 to about 10.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the serum 13. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, wherein the total amount of component b) ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the serum 14. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, wherein the total amount of component b) ranges from about 0.05 to about 5.0 wt%.
15. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, wherein the total amount of component b) ranges from about 0.05 to about 3.0 wt%, suitably from about 0.07 to about 1.0 wt% 16. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, further comprising a water-alcoholic carrier material.
17 A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to statement 16, wherein the alcoholic component of the water-alcoholic carrier material comprises a monoalcohol, a diol, a polyol, an aromatic alcohol or a mixture thereof 18. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to statement 16 or 17, wherein the alcoholic component of the water-alcoholic carrier material comprises a Cl-do linear or branched monoalcohol, a C I -C10 linear or branched diol or a polyol.
19. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any one of statements 16 to 18, wherein the alcoholic component of the water-alcoholic carrier material comprises a CI-CS linear or branched monoalcohol, a Cl-CS linear or branched diol or a polyol.
20. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any one of statements 16 to 19, wherein the alcoholic component of the water-alcoholic carrier material comprises ethanol 21. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any one of statements 16 to 20, wherein the alcoholic component of the water-alcoholic carrier material comprises glycerin.
22. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any one of statements 16 to 21, wherein the alcoholic component of the water-alcoholic carrier material comprises 1-Butyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol or mixtures thereof 23. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, further comprising at least one nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, anionic or cationic surfactant.
24. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, comprising at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one zwitterionic surfactant.
25. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, comprising a zwitterionic surfactant comprising Betaine.
26. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, comprising a non onic surfactant selected from: * addition products of from about 4 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or from about 0 to about 5 mol propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms, * fatty acids containing from about 12 to about 22 C atoms or alkyl phenols containing from about 8 to about 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, * addition products of ethylene oxide and polyglycerine with methylglucos de fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, * C8-C30 fatty acid mono-and -diesters of addition products of from about 1 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide or glycerin, for example those with the INCI names PEG(1-10) Glyceryl Cocoate, in particular PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate.
* amine oxides, for example at least one compound with general formula (I) or (II): N.-----\,./\N--sr° H3C "CH3 (Ti) "ro 1130'4-4.....C113, o in which R respectively represents a linear or branched, saturated or mono-or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing from about 6 to about 24 carbon atoms, for example containing from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.
o Suitable surfactants are those with the aforementioned formulae (I) or (II) with the INCI names cocamine oxide, lauramine oxide and/or cocamidopropylamine oxide, which are commercially available from a number of different suppliers.
* sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polysorbates, * fatty acid alkanolamides with the following general formula: o in which R suitably represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms and the residues R' represent hydrogen or the group (CH2)1101-1, in which n represents the numbers from about 2 or about 3, with the proviso that at least one of the residues R' represents the aforementioned residue -(CH2),,OH, o in particular those compounds known by the INCI names Cocam de 1\TEA and/or Cocamide (\CPA; * C8-C30 fatty acid mono-and di-esters of addition products of from about Ito about 30 mol ethylene oxide with glycerin, in particular the compound known by the INCI name PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, and/or addition products of from about 4 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or from about 0 to about 5 mol propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms.
* fatty acid esters of sugars and addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid esters of sugar, * addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, * alkyl(oligo)glucosides, for example compounds with general formula RO-[G]x, in which [G] preferably derives from aldoses and/or ketoses containing from about 5 to about 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.
o The index x represents the degree of oligomerization (DO), i.e. the distribution of the mono-and oligo-glycosides. The index x preferably has a value in the range from about 1 to about 10, for example in the range from about 1 to about 3, wherein in this regard, it does not have to be a whole number but may be a fractional number which can be determined analytically.
o Suitable alkyl(oligo)glycos des have a degree of oligomerization of between from about 1.2 and about 1.5.
o The residue R suitably represents at least one alkyl-and/or alkenyl residue containing from about 4 to about 24 C atoms.
o Examples of alkyl(oligo)glucosides are known by the INCI names caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and coco glucoside, * mixtures of alkyRoligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, * addition products of from about 5 to about 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil or hydrogenated castor oil, for example PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, * partial esters of polyols containing from about 3 to about 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms, * sterols. "Sterols" should be understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxy group on C3 of the steroid backbone and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and also from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols are also isolated from fungi and yeasts; they are known as mycosterols.
* phospholipids. This primarily means glucose-phospolipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from egg yolk or from plant seeds (for example soy ab ean s).
* hydrogenated castor oil.
27. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, comprising from about 0.1 to about 15.0 wt% of at least one cationic surfactant, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10.0 wt% of at least one cationic surfactant.
28. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, comprising a cationic surfactant selected from: i. a1kylquats, esterquats, iii. quaternary imidazoline, iv, amidoamines and/or cationized amidoamines, v, and mixtures thereof 29 A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, further comprising one or more fatty compounds.
30. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, further comprising at least one fatty acid, fatty alcohol, natural or synthetic wax, a solid vegetable oil or butter, or a natural or synthetic cosmetic oil.
31. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, further comprising one or more additional cationic polymers.
32 A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, further comprising one or more additional cationic polymers selected from Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-89 and mixtures thereof 33. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, further comprising Polyquaternium-37.
34. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any one of statements 31 to 33, wherein the total amount of cationic polymer(s) ranges from about 0.01 to about 3.0 wt%, by weight of the hair serum.
35. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to statement any one of statements 31 to 34, wherein the total amount of cationic polymer(s) ranges from about 0.1 to about 2.0 wt%, by weight of the hair serum.
36. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to statement any one of statements 31 to 35, wherein the total amount of cationic polymer(s) ranges from about 0.2 to about 1.5 wt%, by weight of the hair serum.
37. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, further comprising water in an amount of at least about 60wt%, relative to the total weight of the serum.
38 A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, further comprising water in an amount ranging from about 60 to about 95 wt%, relative to the total weight of the serum 39. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, further comprising water in an amount ranging from about 70 to about 90 wt%, relative to the total weight of the serum 40. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding statement, further comprising at least one active ingredient selected from the group comprising plant extracts, bitter substances, humectants, protein hydrolysates, perfumes, UV filters, structuring agents, dyes for staining the serum, active ingredients such as bisabolol and/or allantoin, antioxidants, preservatives such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid, additional viscosity regulators such as salts (NaC1) or polymers, and pH regulators.
41. A method of repairing split ends comprising applying to the hair a silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any one of statements 1 to 40.
42. Use of a silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any one of statements 1 to 40 to repair split ends.
Example
The following semm was prepared and found to exhibit surprising improvements in terms of semi-permanent repair of split ends.
Ingredient (INCI name) Quantity wt% Alcohol denat. 14.00 Glycerin 2.00 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1.00 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 1.00 Betaine 0.85 Polyquatemium-37 0.65 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.20 Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil 0.10 Lactic Acid 0.05 Hydrolyzed Keratin 0.04 T-Butyl Alcohol 0.015 Sodium Hydroxide 0.0125 Isopropyl Alcohol 0.010 Benzyl Alcohol 0.006 Water, preservatives and minor ingredients, for example perfume ad 100 *provided as Polycare Split Therapy -manufactured by Solvay [0078] While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in the foregoing detailed description, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations exist. It should also be appreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments are only examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or configuration of the various embodiments in any way. Rather, the foregoing detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with a convenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment as contemplated herein. It being understood that various changes may be made in the function and arrangement of elements described in an exemplary embodiment without departing from the scope of the various embodiments as set forth in the appended claims.
Claims (14)
- CLAIMS: 1. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum comprising: a) a hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride having an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,000,000 to about 3,500,000 g/mol; and b) a plant-based oil.
- 2. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to claim 1, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,300,000 to about 2,900,000 g/mol.
- 3. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has a viscosity ranging from about 600 to about 1200 mPa. s.
- 4. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding claim, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has a viscosity ranging from about 750 to about 850 mPa.s.
- 5. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding claim, wherein the plant-based oil comprises Viti s Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Oil, Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Melaleuca Altemifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil (tsubaki oil), Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Lady's Smock oil, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Amaranthus Spinosus Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, bamboo oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, CucurbitaPepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil, Mallow oil, Corylus Americana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil, Canola Oil, Sasanqua oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Rambutan oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Oil, or mixtures thereof
- 6. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding claim, wherein the plant-based oil comprises Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil.
- 7. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding claim, further comprising a water-alcoholic carrier material, preferably a water-ethanolic carrier.
- 8. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any preceding claim, further comprising from about 1.0 to about 20.0 wt% of at least one anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, by total weight of the silicone-free leave-in hair serum
- 9. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to claim 8, comprising from about 0.5 to about 10.0 wt% of at least one nonionic surfactant, by total weight of the silicone-free leave-in hair serum.
- 10. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the or each nonionic surfactant is selected from PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate or a mixture thereof
- 11. A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any one of claims 8 to 10, comprising from about 0.5 to about 10.0 wt% of at least one zwitterionic surfactant, by total weight of the silicone-free leave-in hair serum.
- 12 A silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to claim 11, wherein the zwitterionic surfactant comprises Betaine.
- 13 A method of repairing split ends comprising applying to the hair a silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any one of claims 1 to 12.
- 14. Use of a silicone-free leave-in hair serum according to any one of claims Ito 12 for repairing split ends.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
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DE102020205003.1A DE102020205003A1 (en) | 2020-04-21 | 2020-04-21 | SILICONE-FREE LEAVE-IN HAIR SERRES INCLUDING A MODIFIED POLYSACCHARIDE AND VEGETABLE OIL |
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GB202103725D0 GB202103725D0 (en) | 2021-04-28 |
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GB2595956B GB2595956B (en) | 2022-10-12 |
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GB2103725.4A Active GB2595956B (en) | 2020-04-21 | 2021-03-17 | Silicone-free leave-in hair serums comprising a modified polysaccharide and a plant based oil |
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DE (1) | DE102020205003A1 (en) |
FR (1) | FR3109311B1 (en) |
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Citations (4)
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US20160095809A1 (en) * | 2014-10-03 | 2016-04-07 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Method of improved volume and combability using personal care composition comprising a pre-emulsified formulation |
WO2018206425A1 (en) * | 2017-05-10 | 2018-11-15 | Rhodia Operations | Hair repair composition |
WO2019048193A1 (en) * | 2017-09-06 | 2019-03-14 | Evonik Degussa Gmbh | Composition containing a quaternary ammonium compound, in particular for the preparation of care and cleaning formulations |
CN105878128B (en) * | 2016-06-06 | 2019-04-16 | 上海华银日用品有限公司 | It is a kind of containing moisturizer without silicon transparent shampoo and preparation method thereof |
-
2020
- 2020-04-21 DE DE102020205003.1A patent/DE102020205003A1/en active Pending
-
2021
- 2021-03-17 GB GB2103725.4A patent/GB2595956B/en active Active
- 2021-04-14 FR FR2103838A patent/FR3109311B1/en active Active
Patent Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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US20160095809A1 (en) * | 2014-10-03 | 2016-04-07 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Method of improved volume and combability using personal care composition comprising a pre-emulsified formulation |
CN105878128B (en) * | 2016-06-06 | 2019-04-16 | 上海华银日用品有限公司 | It is a kind of containing moisturizer without silicon transparent shampoo and preparation method thereof |
WO2018206425A1 (en) * | 2017-05-10 | 2018-11-15 | Rhodia Operations | Hair repair composition |
WO2019048193A1 (en) * | 2017-09-06 | 2019-03-14 | Evonik Degussa Gmbh | Composition containing a quaternary ammonium compound, in particular for the preparation of care and cleaning formulations |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
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DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 30 August 2018 (2018-08-30), ANONYMOUS: "02 2in1 Aroma Shower Gel & Shampoo", XP055690445, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/5939749/ Database accession no. 5939749 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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DE102020205003A1 (en) | 2021-10-21 |
FR3109311B1 (en) | 2023-11-24 |
GB2595956B (en) | 2022-10-12 |
GB202103725D0 (en) | 2021-04-28 |
FR3109311A1 (en) | 2021-10-22 |
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