GB2615406A

GB2615406A - Hair treatment product with improved care effect

Info

Publication number: GB2615406A
Application number: GB2218674.6A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Battermann Marlene; Kerl Sylvia
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2021-12-14
Filing date: 2022-12-12
Publication date: 2023-08-09
Anticipated expiration: 2042-12-12
Also published as: GB2615406B; GB202218674D0; DE102021214287A1; FR3130140A1

Abstract

A hair treatment composition comprising: 0.01-5 wt% ester formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and a hydroxycarboxylic acid; 0.01-5 wt% trimethylglycine; and a carrier. The hydroxycarboxlic acid may be an alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid such as lactic acid. The ester may be myristyl lactate. The hair treatment composition may additionally comprise 0.1-25 wt% surfactant, e.g. 0.1-10 wt% cationic surfactant(s). The composition may comprise: (i) 0.5-10 wt% anionic surfactant(s); (ii) 0.5-20 % amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant(s); mixtures of (i) and (ii). The composition may comprise 0.01-10 wt% moisturizing active selected from ceramides, plant extracts, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, polyols, lactic acid, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, carbitol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ethers, medium-chain triglycerides, urea, or mixtures thereof. The composition may be free from silicones and/or mineral oils. Also disclosed is the use of the hair treatment composition to improve the gloss, handling, smoothness, and/or combability of the hair.

Description

HAIR TREATMENT PRODUCT WITH IMPROVED CARE EFFECT

Technical Field

[01] The invention relates to hair treatment agents containing esters of certain hydroxycarboxylic acids and trimethylglycine in a cosmetic carrier, and to the use of the agents for the care of hair.

Background

[2] The importance of hair care products is constantly increasing, not least due to the heavy strain on hair such as coloring or perming, frequent cleaning with shampoos and subsequent drying under hairdryer heat, as well as environmental pollution.

[3] At the same time, the topic of sustainability, characterized by a steadily growing consumer need in this regard, is increasingly moving into the focus of cosmetics manufacturer's.

[4] Depending on their form of packaging, classic hair care products usually contain silicones and/or mineral oils as well as quaternary ammonium compounds, such as cationic surfactants and cationic (quaternized) cellulose and/or guar polymers.

[5] However, the tried-and-tested active care ingredients have deficits in terms of their biodegradability, which is why efforts are being made in the provision of more sustainable hair care products to avoid silicones and/or cationic polymers and still achieve an equivalent care effect.

[6] DE 102019134958 proposed hair care products free of silicones and mineral oils based on a combination of trimethylglycine, medium-chain triglycerides, specific diols and alkylquats. The hair care products have good care benefits such as improved combing wet and dry hair.

[7] However, the products known from the prior art cannot yet meet all the requirements of hair care products with increased sustainability.

[8] The task of the present invention was therefore to provide hair treatment agents in which the use of classic care active ingredients can be dispensed with, and which nevertheless ensure excellent care of the hair fibers.

[9] The active care ingredients used should preferably be of natural origin and have good biodegradability.

[10] In addition, it is desirable to have simple, low-energy production and resulting hair treatment products that are stable, have an attractive appearance, and do not exhibit negative storage characteristics.

Description

[11] A first object of the invention is therefore a hair treatment composition which, in a cosmetic carrier, is -based on its total weight -.

a) 0.01 -5 wt.% of an ester formed from a C8 -C24 alcohol and a hydroxycarboxylic acid, b) 0.01 -5 wt.% Trimethylglycine.

[12] The combination of active care ingredients a) and b) in the hair treatment compositions of the invention makes it possible to dispense with silicones, mineral oils and/or quaternary ammonium compounds without having to accept any disadvantages in care performance.

[13] Hair treated with agents according to the invention exhibits particularly good detangling and combing properties. Their appearance is shiny, and they feel smooth, soft, and silky.

[14] Compared to conventional care active ingredients, active ingredients a) and b) exhibit significantly better biodegradability, thus enabling the provision of more sustainable products.

[15] In addition, optical advantages of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention over conventional hair care formulations, those containing cleansing surfactants, could be observed, because by replacing cationic polymers (such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) with the care active ingredient combination a) and b), care cleansing compositions of high transparency can be provided.

[16] For the purposes of the present invention, a cosmetic carrier is understood to be an aqueous carrier, an alcoholic carrier, or an aqueous-alcoholic carrier. Hair treatment compositions suitable according to the invention may be present, for example, as a cream, emulsion, dispersion, gel, paste, solution, spray, but also as a surfactant-containing foaming solution such as a shampoo, foam aerosol, foam formulation or other preparation suitable for application to the hair.

[17] Preferably, the cosmetic carrier comprises 10 to 98 wt.%, more preferably 20 to 95 wt.% and 30 to 90 wt.% of water, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[18] As a first essential ingredient, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain -based on their total weight -0.01 -5 wt.% of an ester a) formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and a hydroxycarboxylic acid.

[19] Suitable esters a) enhance the hair care properties of trimethylglycine and increase hair shine.

[20] Particularly suitable for achieving the above care benefits are esters a) formed from a C5-C24 alcohol and an alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid.

[21] In this context, suitable alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids are preferably understood to mean malic acid, citric acid, methionine, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, tartronic acid or tartaric acid.

[22] Esters a) of a C8-C24 alcohol (preferably a C10-C20 alcohol and in particular a C12-C16 alcohol) and lactic acid are particularly preferred and may be selected, for example, from lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate and mixtures thereof [23] A particularly well experienced care effect of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be achieved if myristyl lactate is used as ester a).

[24] The at least one ester a) is preferably used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in an amount of 0.02 -4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.025 -3 wt.%, most preferably 0.04 -2 wt.% and especially 0.05-1 wt.%, the amounts being based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[25] In a particularly preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain esters a) of a C5-C24 alcohol (preferably a C10-C20 alcohol and in particular a 012-Cie alcohol) and lactic acid, very preferably lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate and mixtures thereof and preferably Myristyl Lactate in the amounts previously mentioned.

[26] As a second essential ingredient, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain -based on their total weight -0.01 -5 wt.% trimethylglycine (INCI designation: Betaine).

[27] Trimethylglycine is an amino acid derivative well known for use in cosmetic products and is available from natural sources such as sugar beet molasses. It is marketed by Evonik, for example, under the name Tego® Natural Betaine and is used as a humectant in skin treatment preparations and as a firming active ingredient in hair treatment products.

[28] It was observed that the hair care properties of esters a) can be further improved by adding trimethylglycine. Especially the detangling and combing properties of dry hair as well as the soft hair grip up to the hair ends can be improved by adding trimethylglycine.

[29] Trimethylglycine is preferably used in the hair treatment compositions of the invention in an amount of 0.02 -4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.025 -3 wt.%, most preferably 0.04 -2 wt.% and especially 0.05-1 wt.%, the amounts being based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[30] The hair treatment compositions according to the invention can preferably be made up as conditioning compositions or as cleansing compositions.

[31] In these cases, they contain at least one surfactant in addition to the care active ingredient combination a) + b).

[32] Another preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the hair treatment compositions contain at least one surfactant in a proportion by weight of 0.1 -25 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[33] In the case where the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are made up as cleansing compositions -for example as hair care shampoos -they preferably contain at least one surfactant from the group of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof.

[34] Suitable anionic surfactants (i) in cosmetic hair treatment compositions according to the invention, which are made up as a cleansing composition, are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulphate, sulphonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 C atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide and hydroxyl groups may also be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di-and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, -linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms (Soaps), Ether carboxylic acids of the formula R-0-(CH2-CH20)x-CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, so-called amino acid surfactants, such as * Acylsarcosides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, * Acyltaurides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, * Acylisethionates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, * Acylglutamates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, * Acylglycinates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, * Acylates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, * Acylalaninates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, -Sulphosuccinic acid mono-and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulphosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, -linear alkane sulphonates with 8 to 24 C-atoms, -linear alpha-olefin sulphonates with 8 to 24 C atoms, -Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl ester of fatty acids with 8 to 30 C-atoms, - Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-0(CH2-CH20)x-S03H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0011 to 12, Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25030, - sulphated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and/or hydroxyalkylenepropylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354, - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 C-atoms and Ito 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344, - Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, -Alkyl and/or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula R29(0CH2CH2)n-0 -P -0R3

OX

where R29 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R30 is hydrogen, a radical (CH2CH20)nR29 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or NR31R32R33R34, where R31 to R34 are each independently of the others a Cl-to C4-hydrocarbon radical, - sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula R35C0(AlkO)nS03M in which R35C0-represents a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk represents CH2CH2, CHCH3CH2 and/or CH2CHCHCH3, n represents numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M represents a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5.

Monoglyceride sulphates and monoglyceride ether sulphates corresponding to formula (III) as defined for example in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, DE-Al 42 04 70001 by A.K.Biswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and F.U.Ahmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990).

CH20(CH2CH20)x-COR36 CHO(CH20-170)yH CH20(CH2CH20)z-SO3X in which R36C0 represents a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y, and z together represent 0 or numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulphates suitable in the sense of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coco fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulphonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulphates of formula (Ill) are used, in which R36C0 stands for a linear acyl radical with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[35] Preferred anionic surfactants in the sense of the present invention are alkyl sulfates and amino acid surfactants.

[36] C8-C30 alkyl sulfates are particularly preferred because they form a fine-pored, stable foam even in small quantities and are especially well tolerated by the skin. In addition, they exhibit thickening properties in aqueous solutions, which minimizes or eliminates the need for additional thickeners. This enables the provision of particularly mild, caring cleaning compositions.

[37] C 0-C24 alkyl sulfates and C12-C18 alkyl sulfates are quite preferred because these anionic surfactants, also known as "coco sulfates," are obtained from natural coconut oil and, as ECOCERT-compliant ingredients, are particularly suitable for use in the hair treatment compositions of the invention.

[38] Furthermore, "'auntl sulfate" is particularly suitable, the terms "coco sulfate" and "lauryl sulfate" being understood to mean the alkali metal salts, such as potassium or sodium salts, or the ammonium salts of these compounds (such as sodium coco sulfate (SCS) or ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS)).

[39] Anionic surfactants (i) can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention, which are made up as a cleaning composition, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.5 -10 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment compositions.

[40] Preferred feedstock amounts are 0.75-9 wt.%, particularly preferred 1 -Band especially preferred 1 -7.5 wt.%.

[41] Suitable amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (ii) in the sense of the present invention carry both a cationic and an anionic charge in the molecule. Preferably, amphoteric surfactants have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -C00--or -SO3--group, in addition to a preferably C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group, in the molecule. They are also capable of forming inner salts. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are betaines such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,Ndimethylammonium glycinate, for example, cocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethy1-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred amphoteric surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine. Regarding the structure and manufacture of these substances, reference is made to relevant reviews, e.g., J.Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J.Falbe (ed.), "Katalysatoren, Tenside und Mineraloladditive/Catalysts, surfactants and mineral oil additives", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217.

[42] Amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants (ii) can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention, which are made up as a cleansing composition, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.5-20 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment compositions.

[43] Preferred feedstock amounts are 0.75 -19 wt.%, particularly preferred 1 -18 and especially preferred 1 -17.5 wt.%.

[44] In a preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention, which are made up as a cleansing composition, contain, based on their total weight (i) 0.5-10 wt.% of at least one anionic surfactant, (ii) 0.5 -20 wt.% of at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant (iii) or mixtures of (i) and (ii).

[45] Mixtures of (i) and (i) are preferred, as a mixture ensures a particularly good balance between good cleaning ability and low skin dehydration.

[46] In a further preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention, which are made up as a cleansing composition, contain alkyl sulfates and betaines or mixtures thereof in the amounts mentioned above.

[47] Within this embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are particularly preferred which -based on their total weight -contain 0.01 -5 wt.% Lauryl Lactate, Myristyl Lactate, Cetyl Lactate, or mixtures thereof, 0.01 -5 wt.% trimethylglycine, 0.5-10 wt.% Cs-C30 alkyl sulfates, in particular coco sulfate and/or lauryl sulfate salts, 0.5 -20 wt.% betaines, cocamidopropyl betaines.

[48] In the case where the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are present as conditioners, they preferably contain at least one surfactant from the group of cationic surfactants.

[49] In a further preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain -based on its total weight -0.1 to 10 wt.% of at least one cationic surfactant.

[50] Cationic surfactants are surfactants, i.e., surface-active compounds, each with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain only positive charges. Usually, these surfactants are composed of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, the hydrophobic part usually consisting of a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains) and the positive charge(s) being in the hydrophilic head group. Cationic surfactants adsorb at interfaces and aggregate in aqueous solution above the critical micelle formation concentration to form positively charged micelles.

[51] Examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds which may carry one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms as hydrophobic radicals quaternary phosphonium salts substituted with one or more alkyl chains having a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms or tertiary sulfonium salts.

[52] Furthermore, the cationic charge can also be part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g., an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring) in the form of an onium structure. In addition to the functional unit that carries the cationic charge, the cationic surfactant may also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case with esterquats.

[53] Examples of suitable quaternary ammonium compounds are compounds of formula (X) wherein -R12, R13, R14 independently represent a Ci-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, R15 represents a C8-C28 alkyl group and X-is for a physiologically compatible anion, [54] Preferably, R12, R13 and R14 independently represent a methyl group, an ethyl group, or a 2-hydroxyethyl group. R12, R13 and R14 are particularly preferred methyl groups.

[55] The radical R15 represents a C8-C28 alkyl group. Preferably R15 represents a C12 alkyl group, a C14 alkyl group, a C16 alkyl group, a C18 alkyl group, a C20 alkyl group or a C22 alkyl group. The above-mentioned alkyl groups are preferably linear. R15 stands for a linear C16 alkyl group, a linear C18 alkyl group or a linear C20 alkyl group.

[56] Particularly preferred cationic surfactants of formula (X) are, for example, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride or mixtures thereof.

[57] Also suitable are cationic imidazolium compounds of the formula (XI) wherein -R16 for represents a Ci-C6 alkyl group R17, R18 independently of one another represent a C7-C27 alkyl group, and X-stands for a physiologically compatible anion, [58] Particularly preferred compounds of formula (XI) are known under the INCI designation quaternium-87.

[59] Also, particularly suitable are esterquats. Esterquats are known substances that contain at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1.2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart® and Armocare®. The products Armocare® VGH-70, an N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80 and Dehyquart® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

[60] Particularly suitable esterquats are the compounds of formula (XII), ®1 0 0 II 0 ---\\ 0 wherein R19, R20 independently represent a Ci-C6 alkyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, R21, R22 are independently a C7-C27 alkyl group, and X-stands for a physiologically compatible anion, [61] Particularly suitable esterquats according to formula (XII) are those under the INCI designations Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Dioleylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Dioleylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate or mixtures thereof.

[62] X-in the formulas (X) to (XII) stands in each case for a physiologically compatible anion. Suitable physiologically compatible anions are halide (especially chloride or bromide), hydrogen sulfate, sulfate, benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, acetate, citrate, lactate, tartrate, methyl sulfate (H3C0503-), methyl sulfoant or trifluoromethanesulfonate. A-stands for chloride, bromide or for methyl sulfate (H300S03-).

[63] Other suitable cationic surfactants include amidoamines, permanent cationic amidoamines and mixtures thereof [64] Particularly suitable amidoamines may be selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyldimethylamine, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmamidopropyldimethylamine, or mixtures thereof. Brassicamidopropyldimethylamine Behenamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine or mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

[65] Particularly suitable permanently cationic amidoamines may be selected from behenamidopropylethyldirrioniurn ethosilliate, behenamidopropyl-PC-dimonium chloride, olearnidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, oleamidopropyl-PG-dirnoriiiim chloride, cocamidopropylethyldirrioniurn ethosulfate, cocarnidopropyitrimoniurn chloride, Ricinolearnidopropylethyldirrioniumethosultate, Rinoleamidopropyitrinioniumchlor d Ricinolearnidopropyltdrnoniummethosulfate, Steararnidopropylethyldirrionumethosulfate,

I

stearamidopropyi trimonium, methosulfate, undecylenamidopropyl trimonium methosulfate, lauramidopropyi PG dimonium chloride, canolamidopropyl ethyl dimonium ethosulfate, or mixtures thereof, [66] The conditioning properties of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be further increased by adding further components.

[67] Preferred further ingredients that can support the conditioning effect of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention include.

- non-ionic surfactants or non-ionic emulsifiers, moisturizing active ingredients, - Fatty alcohols,

- Vegetable oils

- or mixtures thereof [68] In a further preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention additionally contain -based on their total weight -0.1 -10 wt.% of at least one non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier.

[69] Suitable non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers include: - Sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide to sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polysorbates, - Alkyl(oligo)glucoside, Mixtures of alkyl(oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercially available product Montanov168 and Monatov® 202, Partial esters of polyols with 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids with 8 to 22 C atoms, Polyglycerol esters of polyglycerol with 2 to 20 glycerol units and fatty acids with 8 to 24 C atoms, Sterols. Sterols are a group of steroids that carry a hydroxyl group on C atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated from animal tissue (zoosterols) as well as from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, sfigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts.

Phospholipids. Among these are the glucose-phospolipids, which are obtained as lecithins or phospahtidylcholines from e.g., egg yolks or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans), [70] Suitable alkyl (oligo)glycosides can be selected from compounds of the general formula of RO-[G]", in which [G] is preferably derived from aldoses and/or ketosis with 5-6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.

[71] The index number x stands for the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e., the distribution of mono-and oligoglycosides. The index number x preferably has a value in the range from 1 to 10, particularly preferably in the range from 1 to 3, whereby it may not be an integer but a fractional number that can be determined analytically.

[72] Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo)glycosides have a degree of oligomerization between 1.2 and 1.5. The radical R preferably represents at least one alkyl and/or alkenyl radical containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

[73] Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo)glycosides are the compounds known under the INCI designations caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, or mixtures thereof [74] In a preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain at least one alkyl (oligo)glycoside as a non-ionic surfactant or non-ionic emulsifier, in particular caprylyl/capryl glucosides, decyl glucosides, lauryl glucosides, coco glucosides, arachidyl glucosides or mixtures thereof.

[75] In a further preferred embodiment, it may be advantageous if the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside. Such blends are available, for example, under the trade name Montanov® 202. It is a non-ionic emulsifier that is free of palm oil and has better biodegradability than common -mostly alkoxylated -non-ionic emulsifiers.

[76] In a further preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention additionally contain -based on its total weight -from 0.01 to 10 wt.% of at least one moisturizing active ingredient.

[77] In the context of the present invention, moisturizing agents means ceramides, plant extracts, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, polyols, lactic acid, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylates, carbitol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, medium chain triglycerides, urea, or mixtures thereof.

[78] The hair treatment compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more moisturizing active ingredients from one or more of these groups.

[79] For the purposes of the present invention, suitable polyols are preferably understood to mean polyalcohols (or polyhydroxyl compounds) having 2 to 20 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples of polyols suitable according to the invention are ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol (pentylene glycol), 1,3-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, sugar alcohols such as sorbitol mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol, xylitol, fructose, glucose, lactose, galactose or mixtures of these polyols.

[80] Particularly preferred are glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methy1-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glyco1,1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the above substances. Very preferred are 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, dipropylene glycol and/or diglycerol.

[81] Glycerol and pentylene glycol are particularly preferred.

[82] For the purposes of the present invention, medium-chain triglycerides are understood to be glycerol esters of glycerol and fatty acids with 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular caprylic/capric triglycerides.

[83] In a preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain as moisturizing active ingredient Glycerin, Pentylene glycol, - Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride - or mixtures thereof in a proportion by weight of 1 -6 wt.% of the total weight of hair treatment products.

[84] In a further preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention additionally contain -based on its total weight -0.01 -10 wt.% of at least one vegetable oil, a fatty alcohol, or mixtures thereof [85] As suitable fatty alcohols, hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain saturated, mono-or polyunsaturated, branched, or unbranched fatty alcohols with 6 to 30, preferably 10 to 22 and very preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Applicable in the sense of the invention are, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, °leyl alcohol, erucal alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, °leyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and their guerbet alcohols, this list being intended to be exemplary and not limiting.

[86] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohols are obtainable from natural fatty acids, usually assuming recovery from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction.

[87] Preferably, hair treatment compositions according to the invention -in particular, hair treatment compositions according to the invention that are made up as contitioners -contain stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof [88] Preferably, hair treatment compositions according to the invention -in particular, hair treatment compositions according to the invention that are made up as conditioners -contain stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof [89] As suitable natural (vegetable) oils, hair treatment compositions according to the invention may include Ricinus Communis (castor) seed oil, crambo seed oil, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, Argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, currant seed oil, Jojoba oil, cocoa butter, flaxseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, manila oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, canola oil, rice bran oil, sea buckthorn fruit pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, wild rose oil, the liquid portions of coconut oil or mixtures thereof.

[90] In another preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain 0.01 -1 wt.% apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, olive oil or mixtures of these oils.

[91] Particularly good stability and particularly good hair care results (especially with regard to hair shine and sensory properties (such as softness and smoothness) without the occurrence of over conditioning (oily, weighed-down hair) can be achieved if the hair treatment compositions according to the invention do not contain any further fatty phase components -especially silicone oils and/or mineral oils -in addition to the active ingredients mentioned above.

[92] In a further preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are therefore free from silicones and/or mineral oils.

[93] For the purposes of the present application, "free from" is understood to mean that the hair treatment compositions according to the invention do not contain any freely added silicones and/or mineral orls. 11 silicones and/or mineral oils are present as by-products in commercial products used, their proportion by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is preferably a maximum of 0.25 wt %, more preferably a maximum of 0.10 wt.%.

[94] The hair treatment products according to the invention may contain further optional active substances if these do not impair the efficacy or the production of the products. Facultative active ingredients include: -Protein hydrolysates, -vitamins, -anti-dandruff active ingredients: -carbohydrates, biochinones, -purines.

- Ectoin; - UV-Filter substances, -Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid, - Expanding agents such as urea, aliantoin, carbonates or hydantoin, - Dyes for coloring the agent, although this is not preferred according to the invention, - Complex:rig agents such as EDTA, NTA, p-alan:nediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, - Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono-and distearate, - Pigments, pH adjusting agents such as citrc acid, lactic acid; glutarnic acid and/or succinic acid, Thickening agents such as NaCI or natural hydrocolloids such as xanthan gum: Caesalpinia spinosa gum or mixtures thereof, -Blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N20, dirnethyi ether, CO2 and -Antioxidants, -Perfume oiis, fragrances, and odoriferous substances, although this is not preferred according to the invention, provided that the perfume oils, fragrances; and odoriferous substances are synthetic.

[951 The hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably have a pH in the range from 2 to 6, more preferably from 2.5 to 5.5 and from 3 to 5.

[96] The invention may be characterized by the following numbered statements: 1. Hair treatment composition containing in a cosmetic vehicle, by its total weight a) 0.01 -5 wt.% of an ester formed from a Cs -C24 alcohol and a hydroxycarboxylic acid, b) 0.01 -5 wt.% trimethylglycine.

2. Hair treatment composition according to statement 1, comprising the ester a) in an amount of 0.02 -4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.025 -3 wt.%, very particularly preferably 0.04 -2 wt.% and especially 0.05-1 wt.%, the amounts being based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

3. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the ester a) is formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and an alphahydroxycarboxylic acid.

4. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the ester a) is formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and an alphahydroxycarboxylic acid selected from malic acid, citric acid, methionine, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, tartronic acid or tartaric acid.

5. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the ester a) is formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and lactic acid.

6. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the ester a) is selected from lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate or mixtures thereof 7. Hair treatment composition according to statement 6, wherein the ester a) is myristyl lactate.

8. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, comprising trimethylglycine in an amount of 0.02 -4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.025 -3 wt.%, very particularly preferably 0.04 -2 wt.% and especially 0.05-1 wt.%, the amounts being based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

9. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, comprising at least one surfactant in a proportion by weight of 0.1 -25 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

10. Hair treatment composition according to statement 9, containing -based on its total weight - (i) 0.5-10 wt.% of at least one anionic surfactant, (ii) 0.5 -20 wt.% of at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant (iii) or mixtures of (i) and (ii).

11. A hair treatment composition according to any one of statements 9 or 10, comprising an anionic alkyl sulfate surfactant, a betaine surfactant, or mixtures thereof.

12. A hair treatment composition according to any one of statements 1 to 9, comprising -based on its total weight -0.1 to 10 wt.% of at least one cationic surfactant.

13. A hair treatment composition according to any one of statements 10 to 12, containing -based on its total weight -additionally 0.1 -10 wt.% of at least one non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier.

14. Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, comprising -based on its total weight -additionally 0.01 to 10 wt.% of at least one moisturizing active ingredient.

15. A hair treatment composition according to statement 14, wherein the at least one moisturizing active ingredient is selected from ceramides, plant extracts, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, polyols, lactic acid, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, carbitol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ethers, medium chain triglycerides, urea, or mixtures thereof.

16. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, containing -based on its total weight -additionally 0.01 -10 wt.% of at least one vegetable oil, a fatty alcohol, or mixtures thereof 17. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, comprising a natural oil selected from Ricinus Communis (castor) seed oil, cramp seed oil, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, Argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, currant seed oil, Jojoba oil, cocoa butter, flaxseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, canola oil, rice bran oil, sea buckthorn fruit pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, wild rose oil, the liquid portions of coconut oil or mixtures thereof 18. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, comprising a fatty alcohol selected from stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof 19. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, which is free from silicones and/or mineral oils.

20. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements in the embodiment of a shampoo.

21. A hair treatment composition according to any one of statements 1 to 19 in the embodiment of a rinse-off or leave-in hair care composition.

22. A hair treatment composition according to any one of statements 1 to 19 in the embodiment of a hair styling or hair styling composition.

23. Use of a hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements for the care of hair.

24. Use according to statement 23 to improve the Gloss, Handles, Smoothness, Combability of hair.

25. A process for using a hair treatment composition according to any one of statements 1 to 22, the process comprising applying the hair treatment composition to the hair and optionally a rinsing step with water after an exposure time of the hair treatment composition of from 10 seconds to 10 minutes.

[97] The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of present invention without, however, limiting it.

Examples

[98] The following hair treatment compositions according to the invention were prepared (the amounts refer to [wt.%]): 1) Hair care shampoos 1 2 Cocamidopropyl betaine 16 3 Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate 4 Sodium Coco Sulfate 5 Jojoba oil 0.1 Glycerine 2 2 Coco glucosides 2.5 Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside 0.6 0.6 Myristyl Lactate 0.3 0.5 Trimethylglycine (Betaine) 1 1 Sodium chloride 1 1 Water, preservative, perfume, pH adjuster ad 100 ad 100 2) Conditioner 1 2 Cetearyl Alcohol 4 3 Glycerine 4 3 Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride 2 1 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1 Glyceryl Stearate 0.5 Avocado oil 0.5 Arachidyl Alcohol 0.3 Caesalpinia spinosa gum 0.08 Myristyl Lactate 0.25 0.5 Trimethylglycine (Betaine) 0.3 1 Water, preservative, perfume, pH adjuster ad 100 ad 100 3) Hair care spray 1 2 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3 Cetearyl Alcohol 1 Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride 1.5 Pentylene glycol 1 Glycerine 0.5 2 Arachidyl Alcohol 0.6 Trimethylglycine (Betaine) 1 1 Behenyl Alcohol 0.4 Arachidyl Glucoside 0.3 Argan oil 0.05 Myristyl Lactate 0.5 0.2 Alcohol denat. 25 PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate 2 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 1.25 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.2 Cetrimonium Chloride 0.125 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein 0.1 Water, preservative, perfume, pH adjuster ad 100 ad 100 [99] All hair care compositions 1) to 3) provide treated hair with excellent care benefits, improved(s) shine, feel, softness and combability.

[100] Their action is the same as that of classic hair care products (based on silicones, mineral oils and/or cationic polymers).

[101] Hair care shampoos 1) also have the advantage over classic care shampoos of high transparency and an exceptionally fine-pored, creamy foam. The use of cationic deposition polymers can be omitted to achieve the previously mentioned maintenance benefits.

Claims

Claims: 1 Hair treatment composition containing, in a cosmetic carrier, a) 0.01 -5 wt.% of an ester formed from a CB -C24 alcohol and a hydroxycarboxylic acid, b) 0.01 -5 wt.% trimethylglycine.
2. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ester a) is formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and an alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid.
3. Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ester a) is formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and lactic acid.
4. The hair treatment composition of claim 3, wherein the ester a) comprises or consists of myristyl lactate.
5. Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one surfactant in a proportion by weight of 0.1 -25 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
6. Hair treatment composition according to claim 5, comprising, based on its total weight (i) 0.5-10 wt.% of at least one anionic surfactant, (ii) 0.5 -20 wt.% of at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant (iii) or mixtures of (i) and (H).
7. Hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising -based on its total weight -0.1 -10 wt.% of at least one cationic surfactant.
8. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising -based on its total weight -additionally 0.01 to 10 wt.% of at least one moisturizing active ingredient selected from ceramides, plant extracts, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, polyols, lactic acid, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carbwojlate, carbitol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ethers, medium-chain triglycerides, urea, or mixtures thereof.
9. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding claims, which is free from silicones and/or mineral oils.
10. Use of a hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims for the care of hair, for the improvement of the -Gloss, - Handles, - Smoothness, -Combability of hair.