WO2018087578A1

WO2018087578A1 - Hair care compositions and methods for using such compositions

Info

Publication number: WO2018087578A1
Application number: PCT/IB2016/001595
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ana Carla MACEDO
Original assignee: Rhodia Poliamida E Especialidades S.A.
Priority date: 2016-11-09
Filing date: 2016-11-09
Publication date: 2018-05-17

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair care composition comprising a) at least two cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS), cetrimonium chloride (CTAC), behentrimonium chloride (BTAC), behenamidopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA) and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SAPDMA), b) at least one amphoteric surfactant, wherein the active weight ratio b) / a) is greater than 1.

Description

HAIR CARE COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR USING SUCH COMPOSITIONS

The present invention relates to hair care compositions and methods for using such compositions.

In particular the present invention relates to hair care compositions exhibiting both conditioning and cleansing properties for the simultaneous washing and conditioning of the hair.

Shampoo compositions based essentially on conventional surface-active agents of, in particular, anionic, non-ionic and/or amphoteric type, are used for washing the hair.

These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove dirt initially present on the hair.

Although having good washing power, these base compositions possess cosmetic properties that remain fairly weak, in particular as the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleansing treatment can result, in the long term, in more or less marked damage to the hair, damage related in particular to the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins present in or at the surface of the hair.

This is the reason why most of the hair care compositions further comprise additional cosmetic agents known as conditioners or conditioning agents, which are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects brought about by the various treatments or attacks to which keratinous materials are more or less repeatedly subjected. These conditioners can also improve the cosmetic behavior of the keratinous materials.

The most commonly used conditioning agents, especially in hair care formulations, are cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and/or silicone derivatives.

In recent times there is an increasing demand for hair care compositions with higher cosmetic performance, allowing "one shot" washing and conditioning of the hair and including safe, environment friendly and/or natural ingredients.

Several formulations have been tested in the literature, but it remains a challenge to find out a formulation providing a cosmetic performance, notably in terms of softness, detanglability, shine, spreadability, along with cleansing, while being stable over time (no separation of phases). Generally speaking, the presence of relatively high amounts of cleansing agents in the hair conditioning formulations has the adverse effect to cause phase separation. Viscosity can also be affected in those cases.

This is the reason one of the major challenges when incorporating relative high amounts of cleansing agents into a hair conditioning composition is to benefit from the cleansing and conditioning properties while maintaining satisfactory softness, detanglability, shine, spreadability, along with cleansing properties and without negatively impacting viscosity and/or stability of the overall composition.

It is thus an object of the present invention to address the ever increasing demand in the market for hair care cleansing and conditioning compositions that contain relative high amounts of cleansing agents, while maintaining satisfactory viscosity, stability and conditioning properties.

Another object of the present invention is to provide hair care cleansing and conditioning compositions which exhibit good conditioning properties, such as ease of detangling, softness and shine properties, and a satisfactory viscosity.

The Applicant has now discovered unexpectedly that a hair care composition containing a particular combination of cationic and amphoteric surfactants in a specific ratio, makes it possible to achieve the objective as outlined above.

All amounts are in % by weight of active relative to the total weight of the composition. The term "active weight" means the real weight of active, and not the total weight of product as it is. For example, the active weight of 1.5g of a given raw materials that is 80% active, in fact 1.2g.

The subject of the invention is thus a hair care composition comprising:

a) at least two cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS), cetrimonium chloride (CTAC), behentrimonium chloride (BTAC), behenamidopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA) and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SAPDMA),

b) at least one amphoteric surfactant,

wherein the active weight ratio b) / a) is greater than 1.

The present invention is also directed toward the use of such a composition for simultaneously washing and conditioning the hair. Surprisingly it has been found that the specific surfactant combination in the specific ratio according to the invention makes it possible to achieve at the same time ah acceptable compromise between the following attributes: viscosity of the composition, cleansing properties and conditioning properties, while maintaining stability.

The compositions of the invention can confer on the hair, a noteworthy treating effect which is revealed in particular by an ease of detangling, as well as a contribution on softness and shine without major feeling of greasiness.

By the expression "composition having a satisfactory viscosity" it is meant here a composition that has an apparent viscosity comprised between 1 ,500 and 50,000 cps, for instance comprised between 10,000 and 40,000 cps, for instance comprised between 20,000 and 35,000 cps, for instance comprised between 20,000 and 30,000 cps. The apparent viscosity of each composition was measured after 24-hours in a temperature- controlled chamber (25 ± 2°C), using a Rheometer TA Instruments Model HR-2 with cone-plate system. The measurement of the flow curve was performed by varying the shear rate between 0-150 s^"1 and 150-0 s^"1 for 3 minutes, with the ramp at 25°C. Viscosity was also measured compared to flow rate.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention has an apparent viscosity greater than 15,000 cps, for instance greater than 20,000 cps. By the expression "conditioning the hair" or "improved conditioning" it is meant the improvement of ease of detangling and/or ease of combing, softness and/or shine.

Ease of detangling may be determined by the measurement of the time required for detangling the hair by using the wider teeth of a comb. The shorter the detangling time, the easier to detangle the hair is.

Ease of combing may be determined by the measurement of the work required for combing the hair by using the wider teeth of a comb. The lower the combing work, the easier to comb the hair is.

Softness, or hair feel, and shine may be assessed by an expert panel using sensorial tests on hair care on length and tips.

The composition of the invention is a hair care composition, preferably a hair conditioning and cleansing composition, also called "cleansing conditioner".

Elsewhere in the specification and claims, individual numerical values, or limits, can be combined to form additional non-disclosed and/or non-stated ranges For the avoidance of any doubt the amounts of surfactant refer to the actual amount of active surfactant compound present in the composition. In other words, it does not include the residue which may be present as an impurity in a commercially available surfactant mixture, or water when presenting in an aqueous solution.

Cationic Surfactants (a))

The composition of the invention comprises a) at least two cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS), cetrimonium chloride (CTAC), behentrimonium chloride (BTAC), behenamidopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA) and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SAPDMA).

Advantageously, a) consists in 2 cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS), cetrimonium chloride (CTAC), behentrimonium chloride (BTAC), behenamidopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA) and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SAPDMA).

It is particularly preferred to have a) which consists in behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS) and stearamidopropl dimethylamine (SAPDMA).

The total amount of a) is preferably ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric surfactant (b))

The composition of the present invention comprises b) at least one amphoteric (or zwitterionic) surfactant.

Said amphoteric (or zwitterionic) surfactant b) is advantageously selected from the group consisting of (i) amphoacetates and amphodiacetates, (ii) amphodipropionates (iii) amphosulfonates (iv) sultaines, (v) alkylbetaines and (vi) alkylamidopropyl betaines. The composition of the invention may comprise for example (i) an amphoacetate of formula: ,

RCONHCH₂CH₂N— CH₂CH₂OH

CH₂COO^~M where R is an aliphatic group of 8 to 22 carbon atoms and M is a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, b) is an amphoacetate, for example sodium cocoamphoacetate or sodium lauroamphoacetate, more preferably sodium lauroamphoacetate.

The composition of the invention may comprise for example (i) an amphodiacetate of formula:

CH₂COCriv1⁺

RCONCH2CH2N— CH2CH2OH

CH₂CGCTM⁺ where R is an aliphatic group of 8 to 22 carbon atoms and M is a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, b) is an amphodiacetate, more preferably disodium cocoamphodiacetate. The composition of the invention may comprise for example (ii) an amphodipropionate of formula:

where RCO- represents the fatty acids derived from coconut oil (coco acyl). According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, b) is an amphodipropionate, more preferably disodium cocoamphodipropionate.

The composition of the invention may comprise for example (iii) an amphosulfonate of formula:

where RCO = C6 - C24 acyl (saturated or unsaturated) or mixtures thereof and M+ = monovalent cation, such as sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate (RCO- = lauroyl and M+ = Na+).

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, b) is an amphosulfonate, more preferably sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate.

In another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises (iv) at least one sultaine.

The composition of the invention may comprise for example a sultaine of formula:

_Ri_ C-NHtCHaXn— — (CH₂)3S03^" where m is 2 or 3, or variants of these in which -(CH2)3S03- is replaced by: OH

i

— CH2"CH^*CH2S03 where R1 is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or alkenyl group having 7 to 22 carbon atoms, and R2 and R3 are each independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyi or carboxyalkyi of 1 to 6 carbon atoms. The sultaine is for example selected from the group consisting of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and lauramidopropyl hydroxysultaine and preferably cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine. In another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises (v) at least one alkylbetaine.

The composition of the invention may comprise for example an alkylbetaine of formula:

where R1 is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or alkenyl group having 7 to 22 carbon atoms, and R2 and R3 are each independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

R1 may, in particular, be a mixture of C12 and C14 alkyl groups derived from coconut so that at least half, preferably at least three quarters, of the groups R1 has 10 to 14 carbon atoms. R2 and R3 are preferably methyl.

The alkyl betaine is for example selected from the group consisting of cocobetaine, laurylbetaine and cetylbetaine and preferably cocobetaine.

In still another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises (vi) at least one alkylamidopropyl betaine, for example selected from the group consisting of cocamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, and oleamidopropyl betaine, preferably cocamidopropyl betaine.

The total amount of b) in the composition according to the invention is preferably ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Weight ratio

An important parameter of the composition of the present invention is the active weight ratio b) / a), which is greater than 1 , advantageously greater than 1.2, and more preferably greater than 1.3. Advantageously, the active weight ratio b) / a) is lower than 4, advantageously lower than 3, and more preferably lower than 2.5.

A particularly preferred range for the active weight ratio b) / a) is between 1.3 and 2.5. Rheoloqy modifier agent

In one aspect, the composition of the present invention may further comprise a rheology modifier agent. It is advantageously at least one nonionic polysaccharide. In one embodiment, the composition comprises only one nonionic polysaccharide.

The nonionic polysaccharide can be a modified nonionic polysaccharide or a non- modified nonionic polysaccharide. The modified nonionic polysaccharide may comprise hydroxyalkylations. In the context of the present application, the degree of hydroxyalkylation (molar substitution or MS) of the modified nonionic polysaccharides means the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the polysaccharides. In one embodiment, the MS of the modified nonionic polysaccharide is in the range of 0 to 3. In another embodiment, the MS of the modified nonionic polysaccharide is in the range of 0.1 to 3. In still another embodiment, the MS of the modified nonionic polysaccharide is in the range of 0 .1 to 2.

The nonionic polysaccharide of the present invention may be especially chosen from glucans, modified or non-modified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables, for instance yellow pea, and tubers, for instance potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arables, gum tragacanths, ghatti gums, karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans such as guars and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof. Among the celluloses that are especially used are hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses. Mention may be made of the products sold under the names Klucel® EF, Klucel® H, Klucel® LHF, Klucel® MF and Klucel® G by the company Aqualon, and Cellosize® Polymer PCG-10 by the company Amerchol, and HEC, HPMC K200, HPMC K35M by the company Ashland.

In one embodiment, the nonionic polysaccharide is a nonionic guar. The nonionic guar can be modified or non-modified. The non-modified nonionic guars include the products sold under the name Vidogum® GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro®-Guar 50 and Jaguar® C by the company Soivay. The modified nonionic guars are especially modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups that may be mentioned, for example, are hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guars are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides, with the guar so as to obtain a guar modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The nonionic polysaccharide, such as the nonionic guar, of the present invention may have an average Molecular Weight (Mw) of between 100,000 daltons and 3,500,000 daltons, preferably between 500,000 daltons and 3,500,000 daltons.

The preferred nonionic polysaccharide is a guar modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

In one preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a second rheology modifier agent, which is an anionic polysaccharide, advantageously selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, succinoglycan, alginate and carrageenan, preferably xanthan gum.

The total amount of rheology modifier agent in the composition of the invention is advantageously varying from 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Emollient

In another embodiment, the composition of the invention may further comprise at least one emollient, preferably a liquid fatty ester. The liquid fatty ester according to the invention is preferably of the below formula:

R1-COO R2 (I)

in which:

- R1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally mono- or

polyhydroxylated hydrocarbon-based radical, containing from 5 to 31 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 7 to 21 carbon atoms, and

- R2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally mono- or

polyhydroxylated hydrocarbon-based radical, containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms. Preferably, R1 is a linear or branched alkyl (saturated) radical containing 7 to 21 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 17 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 15 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R2 is a linear alkyl (saturated) radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a branched alkyl (saturated) radical containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, especially from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

More preferably, R2 is a branched saturated alkyl radical containing from 3 to 12 carbon atoms.

Non-limiting examples of liquid fatty esters useful in the invention include ethyl laurate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2- octyldodecyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monococoate (or octyl monococoate), ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate (or octyl stearate), 2- ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or octyl hydroxystearate), glyceryl triacetyl hydroxyl stearate, decyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, isocetyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, diisopropyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, pentaerythrityl tetracaprylate/tetracaprate, glyceryl oleate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, isosorbide dicaprylate and isoarachidyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty ester used in the invention is chosen from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monococoate (or octyl monococoate), ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate (or octyl stearate), isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or octyl hydroxystearate), glyceryl triacetyl hydroxyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, pentaerythrityl tetracaprylate/tetracaprate, glyceryl oleate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, isosorbide dicaprylate and decyl oleate, and mixtures thereof; and more particularly from isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, isoamyl laurate, glyceryl triacetyl hydroxyl stearate diisopropyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, pentaerythrityl tetracaprylate/tetracaprate, glyceryl oleate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, isosorbide dicaprylate and mixtures thereof. The emollient according to the invention is preferably glyceryl triacetyl hydroxyl stearate.

The total amount of emollient in the composition of the invention is advantageously varying from 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Co-surfactant

In another embodiment, the composition of the invention may further comprise at least one co-surfactant preferably a glycol ester of fatty acid or diacid, more preferably a glycol distearate.

The total amount of co-surfactant in the composition of the invention is advantageously varying from 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Emulsifier

In one aspect, the composition of the invention may further comprise at least one emulsifier preferably an alkoxylated fatty acid or derivative thereof.

Advantageously, the emulsifier is a mono- or poly- alkyl or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid, with said fatty acid being a saturated or unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acid, preferably a unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acid. Suitable fatty acids include saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, (C8-C22), more typically (C12-C18), fatty acids and combinations thereof.

Typical examples of saturated or unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acids include ricinoleic acid, lesquerolic acid, hydroxyerucic acid (16- hydroxydocos-cis-13-enoic acid) or hydroxypalmitoleic acid (12-hydroxyhexadec- ci s-9-enoic acid), and combinations thereof.

Typical examples of saturated or unsaturated non-hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acids include myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, margaric acid, and combinations thereof. In one of the invention embodiments, the emulsifier is a mono- or poly- alkyl or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid, with said fatty acid being a saturated or unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acid, preferably a unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22), more typically (C12-C18), fatty acid.

Said fatty acid may be especially ricinoleic acid derived from natural sources, such as non hydrogenated castor oil.

The emulsifier of the invention is a mono- or poly- alkyl or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid as described previously, that is to say a mono- or poly- alkyl or alkenyl ester of a fatty acid as described previously that has been alkoxylated beforehand with from 2 or more moles of (C2-C4)alkylene oxide units per molecule.

Said fatty acid may have been alkoxylated beforehand with from, for instance 2 or more moles of ethylene oxide units, propylene oxide units, or ethylene oxide-propylene oxide units per molecule.

The number of (C2-C4) alkylene oxide units may for instance range from 2 to 500 moles per molecule, for instance from 5 to 250, for instance from 5 to 100, for instance from 5 to 50, for instance from 10 to 30.

In one of the invention embodiments, the emulsifier is a mono- or poly- alkyl or alkenyl ester of an (C2-C4), more typically C2, alkoxylated fatty acid as described previously, with the number of (C2-C4), more typically C2, alkylene oxide units ranges from 5 to 100, for instance from 5 to 50, for instance from 10 to 30.

The emulsifier of the invention is a mono- or poly- alkyl or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid as described previously, that is to say a mono- or poly- ester of such alkoxylated fatty acid with the ester moieties being an alkyl or an alkenyl group.

The ester moieties may derive from fatty acids, wherein the fatty acid moiety has from about 8 to about 40 carbon atoms, for instance from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, for instance from about 14 to about 20 carbon atoms.

Non limiting examples of fatty acids suitable for making the ester moieties include acids such as myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, ricinoleic, lauric, arachidic, behenic, linoleic, linolenic, margaric, and combinations thereof. These fatty acids may be especially oleic acids, linoleic acid and palmitic acids derived from natural sources, such as palm oil.

In one of the invention embodiments, the emulsifier is a mono- or poly- alkenyl ester of an (C2-C4), more typically C2, alkoxylated fatty acid as described previously, the number of (C2-C4) alkylene oxide units ranging preferably from 5 to 100, for instance from 5 to 50, preferably the ester moiety being derived from fatty acids, such as oleic acid, derived from palm oil. Also, the emulsifier can be a mono- or poly- alkyl or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid, wherein the alkyl or alkenyl ester moiety derives from fatty acids having from about 8 to about 40 carbon atoms, for instance from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, for instance from about 14 to about 20 carbon atoms.

Emulsifiers in accordance with the invention may be obtained by esterification of alkoxylated fatty acids, which are commercially available compounds. Such reactions can be implemented by conventional methods which are well known by the skilled person.

Examples of suitable emulsifiers include PEG-18 CASTOR OIL DIOLEATE, which is an oleic acid diester of ethoxylated castor oil in which the average ethoxylation value is 18, and which is sold for instance under the name Marlowet CG.

Mention may be also made of PEG 16 CO Oleate available under the name Alkamuls PEG 16 CO sold by Solvay.

According to anyone of the invention embodiments, said emulsifier is present in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.1 to 5 %, for example from 0.2 to 4 %, for example from 0.5 to 3%.

Fatty alcohol

It can be advantageous for the composition according to the invention to further comprise at least one fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18 linear fatty alcohols.

The fatty alcohol can be present in an amount varying from 0.5 to 15%, preferably 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other ingredients In addition to the compounds indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

A physiologically acceptable medium is a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to the hair. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the substrate to which the composition must be applied, and also to the way in which the composition must be packaged.

According to any one of the invention embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises water in an amount of from 5 to 90 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It may comprise for instance at least 25 %, for instance at least 50 %, for instance at least 60 % of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium can be composed solely of water. According to any one of the invention embodiments, the composition of the invention further comprises at least one water-miscible organic solvent.

According to this embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium can be composed of a mixture of water and of a cosmetically acceptable solvent, such as a lower C1 -C4 alcohols or such as alkylene glycols. The lower C1 -C4 alcohols are preferably

F

chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, and n-butanol. The alkylene glycols are preferably chosen from propylene glycol and glycol ethers.

The composition of the invention may further comprise additional optional ingredients which may bring specific benefits for the intended use. Such optional ingredients may include colorants, pearlescent agents, emollients, hydrating agents, preservatives and pH adjusters. The skilled person is able to select according to general knowledge in the art of formulating shampoos and conditioners, and the vast literature there-related, appropriate such optional ingredients for application purposes.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a benefit agent selected from insoluble or partially insoluble ingredients such as conditioners, hair coloring agents, anti-UV agents, fragrances or essential oils, anti-dandruff agents, and provides enhanced deposition of such benefit agent on the hair.

In one embodiment, the personal care composition of the present invention further comprises from about 0.1 to about 50 % by weight, more, typically from about 0.3 to about 25 % by weight, and still more typically from about 0.5 to 10 % by weight, of one or more benefit agents.

The composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise other ingredients, such as, for example, preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, salicylic acid, methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone, thickeners such as high molecular weight crosslinked polyacrylic acid (carbomer), PEG diester of stearic acid and the like, and viscosity modifiers such as block polymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, electrolytes, such as sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, and polyvinyl alcohol, pH adjusting agents such as citric acid, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, and sodium carbonate, perfumes, dyes, and sequestering agents, such as disodium ethylenediamine tetra-acetate. In general, hair care compositions may optionally comprise, based on 100 % by weight of the personal care composition and independently for each such ingredient, up to about 10%, preferably from 0.5 % to about 5.0 %, of such other ingredients, depending on the desired properties of the hair care composition.

In one specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention further comprises a fragrance material or perfume.

As used herein, the term "fragrance material or perfume" means any organic substance or composition which has a desired olfactory property and is essentially non-toxic. Such substances or compositions include all fragrance material and perfumes that are commonly used in perfumery or personal care compositions. The compounds involved may be natural, semi-synthetic or synthetic in origin.

Preferred fragrance materials and perfumes may be assigned to the classes of substance comprising the hydrocarbons, aldehydes or esters. The fragrances and perfumes also include natural extracts and/or essences, which may comprise complex mixtures of constituents, i.e. fruits such as almond, apple, cherry, grape, pear, pineapple, orange, lemon, strawberry, raspberry and the like; musk, flower scents such as lavender, jasmine, lily, magnolia, rose, iris, carnation and the like; herbal scents such as rosemary, thyme, sage and the like; woodland scents such as pine, spruce, cedar and the like.

In one embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.01 to 10 % by weight of the fragrance material or perfume based on the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.1 to 5 % by weight of the fragrance material or perfume based on the total weight of the composition. In still another embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.2 to 2 % by weight of the fragrance material or perfume based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the present invention is used in a manner know in the art, for example by application of the composition to the hair and optionally rinsing the composition off of the hair with water.

According to any one of the invention embodiments, the composition of the invention may have a pH comprised between 4 and 1 1 , for instance between 4 and 6. According to any one of the invention embodiments, the composition of the invention may be prepared using a concentrated flowable composition.

The invention is also directed toward concentrates that are suitable to prepare a composition of the invention.

Concentrates including a mixture of surfactants and/or conditioning agents and/or solubilizer are advantageous as their use would reduce the need to transport a plurality of individual components.

Personal care compositions are usually prepared by mixing individual surfactants, solubilizers and conditioning agents. These components may be supplied as concentrated solutions which are diluted and/or and combined in appropriate ratios by the formulator. The invention covers any concentrate to be used as component ingredient to prepare a composition of the invention, and especially to concentrates containing limited levels of water (more advantageous from a cost and environmental perspective).

According to one embodiment, the present invention also covers any concentrate that can be used to prepare a composition of the invention.

The viscosity of the composition of the invention is satisfactory per se.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may further comprise a thickener.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise less than 5 % by weight of an additional thickener.

In particular, a composition of the invention may comprises less than 5 % by weight of polymeric thickener(s), relative to the total weight of composition, for instance less than 3 % by weight, for instance less than 2 % by weight, for instance less than 1 % by weight. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise substantially no polymeric thickener, i.e. from 0 to less than 0.1 % by weight of polymeric thickener per 100 % by weight of the composition, for instance no polymeric thickener, i.e. 0 % by weight of polymeric thickener per 100 % by weight of the composition.

To thicken and stabilize compositions containing vegetable oils, stabilizers such as crosslinked acrylic polymers of the Carbopol type are frequently used. However, these stabilizers can have the drawback of reducing the cosmetic performance. For instance, in the case of shampoos, using such synthetic polymers makes the hair more laden (charged or loaded) and coarser.

Therefore, according to anyone of the invention embodiments, a composition of the invention comprises less than 5 % by weight of one crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and of a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, for instance one crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer, relative to the total weight of composition, for instance less than 3 % by weight, for instance less than 2 % by weight, for instance less than 1 % by weight, or even comprise no, i.e. 0 % by weight, of one crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and of a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, for instance one crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer.

EXAMPLES

The invention will now be described in further detail by way of the following non limiting examples, wherein the abbreviations have the usual meaning in the art. The temperatures are indicated in degrees centigrade (°C) and the other parameters in the respective current units, "q.s." means "quantity sufficient".

Evaluation methodologies

Sensorial assessment, half-head test on head

An in-vivo head bleached Caucasian hair was used for the sensorial assessment. Length of hair: 40 cm.

Sensorial analysis was performed by a trained expert panelist, following the standardized protocol described below.

Standard pre-washinq procedure: The in-vivo head was wetted for 1 min under tap water at 35°C. A standard shampoo of 10 active wt. % of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), was used. An amount of 20 ml of this standard shampoo was massaged into the hair for 90 seconds. The in-vivo head was then rinsed for 2 min under running tap water at 35°C. Cleansing conditioner application and evaluation: The hair was divided to two equal parts: 10 ml of cleansing conditioner was added to each side of the head and massaged into the hair for 60 seconds. During this phase these properties were evaluated: foam amount, ease of spreading, richness, hair feel. Then, hair treatment is left for 3 min. Each side of the head was then rinsed for 60 seconds under running tap water at 35°C. During this phase the ease of rinsing, the cleanliness and the hair feel (softness) was evaluated. On wet state, the ease of detangling (using medium tooth comb), the hair feel and the hair care from roots to tips was evaluated. Each side of the head was then dried using the blow drier (maximum air flow and temperature). During this phase the drying time was measured. Each side of the hair was then combed (using medium tooth comb) and the hair feel, cleanliness, lightweightness, manageability, shine and softness was evaluated.

Viscosity Measurement

The viscosity of the formulation was measured after 24 hours in a temperature-controlled chamber (25 ± 2°C), using a Rheometer TA Instruments Model HR-2 with cone-plate system. The measurement of the flow curve was performed by varying the shear rate between 0-150 s^"1 and 150-0 s^"1 for 3 minutes, with the ramp at 25°C. Viscosity was also measured compared to flow rate.

The following hair cleansing conditioning composition was prepared. The raw materials used are identified by the INCI names and/or by the trade names. All the ingredients are expressed as active weight per cent of the total formulation. Example 1 :

INC. names Formulation 1

BTMS 1.5

SAPDMA 1

Propylene Glycol 0.5

Cetearyl Alcohol 7

PEG 16 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 2

Sodium Benzoate 0.4

Hydroxypropyl Guar 0.5

Salicylic Acid 0.2

Sodium Lauroamphoacetate 3.5 (in active) Citric Acid q.s to pH ~4.5

Glyceryl triacetyl hydroxystearate 1

Glycol Distearate 1

Xanthan Gum 0.3

Water qs to 100

Formulation protocol

Water is charged in a beaker and heated to ~75°C. SAPDMA is added, diluted and pH is adjusted to ~4.5. Then, BTMS is added until dilution. Hydroxypropyl guar and xantham gum are added and stirring is increased. PEG16 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, propylene glycol, sodium lauroamphoacetate, glycol distearate and cetearyl alcohol are added and formulation is mixed for 5 min. Glyceryl Triacetyl Hydroxystearate is added then and formulation is mixed for more 5 min. When temperature is lower than 40°C, fragrance and preservatives are added and mixed for more 5 min. In the end, pH is adjusted between 4- 4.5.

Stability tests

Below are the results of the stability study performed according to internal stability procedure over 90 days under different conditions of temperature (5°C, 25°C and 45°C).

45°C lday 7days lSday 30days

Rheometer Viscosity (cP) @

25°C 26881 OK OK OK PH 4.51 4.55 4.51 4.51

White White White White

Appearance cream cream cream cream

We can conclude that formulations are stable under above mentioned conditions.

The following commercial hair cleansing conditioning composition was also tested. The raw materials used are identified by the INCI names and/or by the trade names.

Comparative A:

L'Oreal® Hair Expertise EverCreme: This formulation has only one cationic surfactant and a ratio amphoteric/cationic greater than 1.

1. Water,

2. Cetearyl Alcohol,

3. Sodium Cocoamphopropionate,

4. Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate,

5. Behentrimonium Chloride,

6. Fragrance,

7. Isopropyl Alcohol,

8. Caprylyl Glycol,

9. Glycerin, Tocopherol,

10. Hexyl Cinnamal,

11. Linalool, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil,

12. Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil,

13. Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil,

14. Caramel,

15. CI 19140.

Performances tests

Below are the results of the sensorial tests performed according to the above detailed procedure for formulation 1 and comparative formulation A.

Fine hair wit l highlights

Parameters Comparative A Formulation 1

Ease of spreading 4.0 5.0

Richness/Penetration signal 5.0 4.0

Foam 5.0 4.0

Detangling (application) 5.0 3.0 Ease of rinsing 3.0 5.0

Cleanness of roots (wet) 2.0 4.0

Detangling (wet) 4.0 5.0

Softness (wet) 5.0 4.0

Homogeneity (wet) 5.0 4.0

Softness (tips)(wet) 5.0 3.0

Lightweight feel(wet) 3.0 3.0

Speed of Drying (dry) 2.0 4.0

Manageability (dry) 4.0 5.0

Hair Shine (dry) 5.0 5.0

Softness (lengths)(dry) 4.0 5.0

Softness (tips) (dry) 4.0 4.0

Homogeneity (dry) 5.0 4.0

Fly Away (dry) 5.0 3.0

Hair Bounce (dry) 1.0 5.0

Untied effect (dry) 1.0 4.0

Lightweight feel(dry) 1.0 5.0

Cleanness of roots (dry) 2.0 4.0

Conclusion:

Formulation 1 , which includes the particular combination of 2 cationic surfactants of the invention together with a specific ratio between the amount of amphoteric surfactant/ cationic surfactant, makes it possible to achieve at the same time an acceptable compromise between the following attributes: viscosity of the composition, light formula (non-greasy effect) and conditioning on target area, while leaving hair clean, soft and shiny.

Sensorial assessments confirmed that Formulation 1 exhibits very good conditioning properties, especially in terms of ease of detangling, softness and shine properties.

Comparative Formulation A, which contains only one cationic surfactant, is a heavy formula. Its viscosity is the same, but with less spreadability. Moreover during the sensorial assessment, less softness is evidenced in wet and dry state for Comparative Formulation A, compared to Formulation 1 of the invention.

Claims

1. A hair care composition comprising:

b) at least one amphoteric surfactant,

wherein the active weight ratio b) / a) is greater than 1.

2. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein a) consists in 2 cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS), cetrimonium chloride (CTAC), behentrimonium chloride (BTAC), behenamidopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA) and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SAPDMA).

3. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein a) consists in behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS) and stearamidopropl dimethylamine (SAPDMA).

4. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of a) is from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein b) is selected from the group consisting of (i) amphoacetates and amphodiacetates, (ii) amphodipropionates (iii) amphosulfonates (iv) sultaines, (v) alkylbetaines and (vi) alkylamidopropyl betaines, preferably b) is an amphoacetate, more preferably sodium lauroamphoacetate.

6. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of b) is from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the active weight ratio b) / a) is greater than 1.2, preferably greater than 1.3.

8. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the active weight ratio b) / a) is lower than 4, preferably lower than 3, and more preferably lower than 2.5.

9. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the active weight ratio b) / a) is between 1.3 and 2.5.

10. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, further comprising a rheology modifier agent being at least one nonionic polysaccharide.

1 1. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the nonionic polysaccharide is a guar modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

12. The composition according to claim 10 or 11 , wherein the composition comprises a second rheology modifier agent, which is anionic polysaccharide, preferably xanthan gum.

13. The composition according to anyone of claims 10 to 12, wherein the total amount of rheology modifier agent is from 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one emollient, preferably an ester, even more preferably chosen from the group consisting of ethyl laurate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monococoate (or octyl monococoate), ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate (or octyl stearate), 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or octyl hydroxystearate), glyceryl triacetyl hydroxyl stearate, decyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, isocetyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, diisopropyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, pentaerythrityl tetracaprylate/tetracaprate, glyceryl oleate, sodium isostearoyi lactylate, isosorbide dicaprylate and isoarachidyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof, preferably glyceryl triacetyl hydroxyl stearate.

15. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one co-surfactant preferably a glycol ester of fatty acid or diacid, more preferably a glycol distearate.

16. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one emulsifier preferably an alkoxylated fatty acid or derivative thereof.

17. The composition according to claim 16 wherein the emulsifier is a mono- or poly- alkyl or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid, with said fatty acid being a saturated or unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acid, preferably a unsaturated hydroxylated (C8- C22) fatty acid.

18. The composition according to claims 16 or 17, wherein the emulsifier is a mono- or poly- alkyl or alkenyl ester of an (C2-C4) alkoxylated fatty acid, with the number of (C2- C4) alkylene oxide units ranging preferably from 5 to 100, for instance from 5 to 50.

19. The composition according to claims 16 to 18, wherein the emulsifier is a mono- or poly- alkyl or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid, wherein the alkyl or alkenyl ester moiety derives from fatty acids having from about 8 to about 40 carbon atoms, for instance from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, for instance from about 14 to about 20 carbon atoms.

20. The composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18 linear fatty alcohols.

19. The composition according to claim 20, wherein the fatty alcohol is present in an amount varying from 0.5 to 15%, preferably 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Use of a composition as defined in anyone of the preceding claims for simultaneously washing and conditioning the hair.

22. A method for simultaneously washing and conditioning the hair, wherein said method comprises treating the hair in need thereof with the hair composition of claim 1.