GB2595574A - Hair compositions comprising a modified polysaccharide and an aminosilicone - Google Patents

Hair compositions comprising a modified polysaccharide and an aminosilicone Download PDF

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GB2595574A
GB2595574A GB2105629.6A GB202105629A GB2595574A GB 2595574 A GB2595574 A GB 2595574A GB 202105629 A GB202105629 A GB 202105629A GB 2595574 A GB2595574 A GB 2595574A
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hair
composition according
hair composition
group
oil
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GB202105629D0 (en
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Scheunemann Volker
Nebel Monika
Poppe Elisabeth
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)

Abstract

Hair composition comprising: a hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride having an average molecular weight 2,000,000-3,500,000 g/mol (and preferable a viscosity from 600-1200 mPas); and a polyorganosiloxane prepared from an amine-functionalized siloxane and an alkoxysilane, preferably Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer. The composition may be a hair shampoo or hair conditioner. The composition may comprise 5.0-50 % anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic surfactant, preferably 0.1-15.0 % cationic surfactant. Also disclosed is the use of the composition for repairing split ends and a method of repairing split ends comprising applying the composition onto the hair.

Description

HAIR COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A MODIFIED POLYSACCHARIDE AND AN AMINOSILICONE
TECHNICAL FIELD
100011 The invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular hair compositions, comprising modified polysaccharide and at least one aminosilicone. The compositions exhibit surprisingly effective repair of split ends. The compositions may be used in the care of keratin fibres. The invention also relates to a method of repairing split ends comprising applying the hair composition to the hair.
BACKGROUND
[0002] Split ends are a phenomenon that manifest themselves in the hair fibres becoming porous and in splitting of the individual hairs from their ends. Split ends are caused inter alia by severe mechanical stressing of the hair, for example by frequent brushing, back-combing or combing against high combing resistance. High combing resistance in dry hair can be caused by damage to the hair surface, static charging or tackiness attributable to residues of hair sprays. The danger of split ends is also increased by weakening of the hair structure which can be caused by frequent or careless application of chemical treatments, as for example in permanent waving or coloring.
[0003] Accordingly, there has been no shortage of attempts to regenerate hair damaged by split ends by applying suitable preparations, i.e. to stop the advance of split ends and to repair the split hairs.
[0004] The repair of split hair ends has so far only been possible by using so-called hair tip fluids, which must be used in addition to the daily hair care products. Silicone-containing hair tip fluids have been found to work only until the next hair wash. They weigh down the hair and must be applied to the tips of the hair in an additional application step.
[0005] Previous attempts have not always been entirely satisfactory in the case of products which are rinsed off from thc hair after application (so-called rinse-off products), such as for example shampoos and hair conditioners/treatments.
[0006] The provision of hair compositions that have a beneficial effect in terms of split end repair is therefore a relevant objective in the field of hair cosmetics.
BRIEF SUMMARY
[0007] The object of the present disclosure is solved by the subject-matter of the independent claims, wherein further embodiments are incorporated in the dependent claims.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0008] The following detailed description is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the disclosure or the application and uses of the subject matter as described herein. Furthermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory presented in the preceding background or the following detailed description.
[0009] The objective is achieved in accordance with the invention by a hair composition comprising: a) hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride having an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,000,000 to about 3,500,000 g/mol, and b) a polvorganosiloxane prepared from: (i) an amine-functionahzed siloxane; and (ii) an alkoxysilane. The hair composition may take any form; preferred is a shampoo, conditioner or treatment [0010] The compositions as disclosed herein surprisingly result in increased care performance of hair formulations, especially with regard to the repair of split hair ends. It was surprisingly found that a combination of a guar as defined herein and specific silicones as defined herein enables semi-permanent repair of split hair ends through the use of rinse-off hair care formulations. The inventive combination also improves wet and dry combability and reduces hair breakage. The compositions comprising the combination can be hair shampoos as well as conditioners or treatments. Thus, for the first time, split ends can be repaired semi-permanently using rinse-off formulations; the use of an additional anti-split product is not necessary.
[0011] The present invention also provides a method of repairing split ends comprising applying to the hair a hair composition as defined herein.
10012] The present invention also provides the use of a hair composition as defined herein for repairing split ends.
[00131 The invention summarised above will now be illustrated in further detail.
[0014] Component (a) in the inventive hair composition is a hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride having an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,000,000 to about 3,500,000 g/mol. Preferably, the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,300,000 to about 2,900,000 g/mol. Average molecular weight can be measured by any suitable means, as will be well understood by the skilled person. For example, static light scattering measurements can be performed using Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC). A suitable system is GPC-MALS (multi angle light scattering).
[0015] A further characteristic of the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is its viscosity suitably, the viscosity ranges from about 600 to about 1200 mPa.s, more preferably from about 750 to about 850 mPa.s. In all instances disclosed herein, the viscosity is the Brookfield AVT viscosity measured at 25°C and 20 rpm, Spindle 2, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water.
[0016] A particularly preferred hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride for use in the present invention is present in the raw material Polycarele Split Therapy, available from Solvay.
[00171 The total amount of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride may range from about 0.001 to about 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. The best effects were observed when the amount of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride ranges from about 0.05 to about 3.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition, for example from about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, suitably from about 0. Ito about I wt%.
[0018] Component (b) in the inventive hair composition is a polyorganosiloxane prepared from: (i) an amine-functionalized siloxane; and (i1) an alkoxvsilane. Thus, a required feature of the component b) polvorganosiloxane is that it has amine-functionality.
[0019] Advantageously, the am no-functionalised polyorganosiloxane is a 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of formula (X),
CH A CH
I 3 1 r I Si 0 L si o1s [io 0 II 3 B± I a 1 CH3cN2 CH3
OS
in which A denotes a structural unit (I), (II), or (III) bound via 0-
CH 30±M
CH 3 (I) ?Hs +i-047* H2 (II) (I11), or an oligomeric or polymeric residue bound via -0-containing structural units of formulas (1), (11), or (III), or half of an oxygen connecting atom to a structural unit (III), or denotes -OH, denotes a bond to one of the structural units (I), (11), or (ITT), or denotes a terminal group B (Si-bound) or D (0-bound), B denotes an -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3, -0-Si(CH3)20H, -0-Si(CH3)20CH3 group, CH, CH3 Si 0],i[si 0±D CH3
HN
NH2 (X), D denotes an -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)20H, -Si(CH3)20CH3 group, a, b, and c denote integers from about 0 to about 990, with the provision that a + b + c> m n, and o denote integers from about 2 to about 990.
[0020[ The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is in the range from about 3 to about 500 nm, preferably in the range from about 5 to about 60 nm.
[0021] Structural units of formulas (I), (TO, and (III) can be present statistically distributed in the molecule, but the silicones used according to the present invention can also be block copolymers made up of blocks of the individual structural units, in which context the blocks can in turn be present in statistically distributed fashion.
[0022] The * on the free valences of structural units (f), (II). or (HI) denotes a bond to one of the structural units (1), (11), or (III) or a terminal group B (Si-bound) or D (0-bound).
[0023] The silicones used according to the present invention can be trirnethylsilyl-terminated at both ends (D = -Si(CH3)3, B = -0-Si(CH3)3), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxv-or dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated at one or two ends. Silicones used particularly preferably in the context of the present invention have at least one terminal dimethylsilylhydroxy group, i.e. are selected from silicones in which B = -0-Si(CH3)20H and D = -Si(CH3)3 B = -0-Si(CH3)20H and D = -Si(CH3)20H B = -0-Si(CH3)20H and D = -Si(CH3)20CH3 B = -0-Si(CH3)3 and D = -Si(CH3)20H B = -0-Si(CH3)20C1-h and D = -Si(CH3)20H.
[0024] In structural unit (III), residue A can denote 1. a structural unit (I), (II), or (III) bound via -0-, or 2, an oligomeric or polymeric residue bound via -0-containing structural units of formulas (1), (11), and (III), or 3. half of an oxygen atom connecting to a structural unit (III), or can denote -OH.
In the first case, structural unit (ITT) becomes one of the structural units (ITTa), (11Th), or (ITTc):
H
CH H30 /-", " Si 0] D H m Si 0-17D 0 H ) 1-* (Mb),
AI
Si 0-17D *-Hi-Ofe CN\ (Mc), where in = n = o = 1, and A resp. D are as defined above.
[0025] In the second case, in the formulas (IIIa), (IIIb), and (IIIc) recited above the indices m, n, and o can denote integers from about 2 to about 990. The second case also, however, covers oligomeric or polymeric residues that contain at least two different structural units of formulas (1), (11), or (III), as depicted in formula (111d):
CH A CH CH CH
I 3 ir I I 3 I 3 0±D CH3 Si o b,[ Ti 0 Si 0 Si CH, a N) CH3 (Ind), in which a, b, and c denote integers from about 0 to about 990, with the provision that a + b + c > 0, and n and o denote integers from about 1 to about 990.
[0026] In the third case, A denotes half of an oxygen atom connecting to a stmctural unit (111) (depicted in structural unit (111e)) or denotes -OH (depicted in structural unit (1110) i,N....,"...1 oI
OH
r 1 r 1 CN\ H a-2 0 (Iue), [0027] As already mentioned, the structural units of formulas (I), (TT), and (TIT) can preferably be present in statistically distributed fashion. Amino-functionalised polyorganosiloxanes preferably used according to the present invention contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of formula (X) CH3A CH, CH B-Hli 0 1a[Si0]0[ Si 0 lb I 3 CH30)CH3 14 Ti 0 cH3
H (X)
in which A denotes a structural unit (1), (II), or (ITT) bound via -0-, or an oligomeric or polymeric residue bound via -0-containing structural units of fommlas (1), (11), or (111), or half of an oxygen atom connecting to a structural unit (III), or denotes -OH, B denotes an -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3, -0-Si(C113)201-L, -0-Si(C1-13)20CH3 group, D denotes an -H, -Si(CI-13)3, -Si(CI-13)20H, -Si(CH3)200-13 group, a, b, and c denote integers from about 0 to about 990, with the provision that a + b + c> n, and o denote integers from about 1 to about 990.
[0028] Stmctural formula (X) is intended to illustrate the fact that the siloxane groups n and o do not obligatorily need to be bound directly to an end grouping B rcsp. D. Instead, in preferred formulas (X) a> 0 or b > 0, and in particularly preferred formulas (X) a> 0 and b > 0, i.e. the terminal grouping B resp. D is preferably bound to a dimethylsiloxy grouping. In formula (X) as well, the siloxane units a, b, c, n, and o are preferably statistically distributed.
[0029] The silicones represented by formula (X) and used according to the present invention can also be trimethylsilyl-terrninated at both ends (D = -Si(CH3)3, B = -0-Si(CH3)3), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-or dimethylsilylmethoxy-tenninated at one or two ends. Silicones used particularly preferably in the context of the present invention have at least one terminal dimethylsilylhydroxy group, i.e. are selected from silicones in which B = -0-SliCH3)20H and D = -Si(CH3)3 B = -0-Si(CH3)20H and D = -Si(CH3)20H B = -0-Si(CH3)20H and D = -Si(CH3)20CH3 B = -0-Si(CH3)3 and D = -Si(CH3)20H B = -0-Si(CH3)20C1-h and D = -Si(CH3)20H.
These 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones of formulas (X), which respectively comprise at least one of the structural units of formula (I), (II), and (IH), result in surprisingly large improvements in the hair properties of the hair treated in accordance with the method according to the present invention, in particular in tremendously improved hair protection and color protection in the context of oxidative hair coloring.
[0030] In formula (X) as well, residue A can denote 1. a structural unit (1), (11), or (111) bound via -0-, or 2. an oligomeric or polymeric residue bound via -0-containing structural units of fommlas (I), (II), and (III), or 3. half of an oxygen atom connecting to a structural unit (III), or can denote -OH.
[0031] By analogy with the statements regarding structural unit (I11), formula (X) is thus refined to one of formulas (Xa). (Xb). (Xc), (Xd,). (Xe), or (Xf): CH3 H3C--4 o-fri D / CH 0 CH3 CH, I 3 -I i, s, 0 I s, 0]o[ sl, 0 B±Si 0 Jai_ b CH3 N) CH, ---,.. In[
HN/ (Xa) N H2 H3C-Si 0±D CH, 0 CH 0 la [ ],[ Si 0 CH3cr) CH3 CH3 in [ Si 0±D CH3 HN/ A r -Si 017D CH, 0 B_[ I B-[-Si 0 13[ CH 2 3N\ 0^1 CH3 CH, CH, 1 I 0±D i ° jo[ S1 i ° Si 0 CH, CH,
HN (Xc) (X)
CH, A CH, [ [ 81-0][3[ Ti 0 CH, 301) CH, i 0-17D CH, CH, CH3 B-[-Si-0][a Si 0 i-0 CI H3 () SI CH, HN..---CI H, I 1 CH, L,NH2 Si 0 ti[ Ti 0-i7D 1.---.. CH, (Xd)
CO CH CH
<N,,) 3 3 CH3 CH, Si B±SI i 0 la [ 0 JnL]0D CH, CH3 CH3C-1\1) HN/ (Xe) CH3 OH CH, 013[ 0 0 ol CH3 co) CH, ()a) [0032] Structural unit (III) resp. the siloxane units o in formulas (X) can via group A. constitute nest structures resp. partial cage structures when A denotes half of an oxygen atom connecting to a structural unit (III).
CH CH
I 3 I 3 Si oird Si 0H7D CH3
HN
[0033] A preferred aminofunctional polydimethylsiloxane has the MCI name Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer. Such a silicone is available from Wacker Chemical Corporation under the name Belsil ADM 8301E.
[0034] The amount of aminofunctional polydimethylsiloxane may range from about 0.0001 to about 10.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. The best effects were observed when the amount of aminofunctional polydimethylsiloxane ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition, for example from about 0.05 to about 5.0 wt%, suitably from about 0.05 to about 3.0 wt%, more suitably from about 0.07 to about 1.0 wt%.
[0035] The person skilled in the art understands that cosmetic products often contain at least one surfactant selected from cationic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and/or nonionic surfactants.
[0036] Suitably, the hair composition defined herein comprises one or more surfactants selected from: at least one cationic surfactant; ii) at least one anionic surfactant; iii) at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant; and/or iv) at least one nonionic surfactant.
[0037] Suitably, the hair composition of the present invention is used as a hair conditioner or hair treatment, in which case the hair composition preferably comprises at least one cationic surfactant and optionally at least one anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactant.
[0038] Cationic surfactants carry a positive charge in their hydrophilic part. This positive charge causes the surfactant molecules to attach themselves to the negatively charged skin and hair surface. In this way they neutralize the charge, prevent hair from flying, have a smoothing effect, increase hair shine and improve wet combability. Primarily they are used in conditioners, hair conditioners and treatments, rarely in shampoos. in addition, cationic surfactants have a co-conservative effect in cosmetic products due to their bactericidal effect, i.e. their bacterial inhibitory effect.
[0039] In principle, all cationic surfactants suitable for use on the human body are suitable as cationic surfactants in compositions according to the invention. These are characterized by at least one water-solubilizing cationic group, such as for example a quaternary ammonium group, or by at least one water-solubilizing cationizable group, such as for example an amine group and furthermore at least one lipophilic alkyl group haying about 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or also by at least one imidazole group or at least one imidazylalkyl group.
[0040] In general, cationic surfactants are divided into groups according to their structural characteristics. Cationic surfactants a) from at least one of the groups alkylquats, esterquats, quaternary imidazolines, amidoamines and/or cationized amidoamines are particularly suitable for use in the hair composition defined herein [0041] When present, and regardless of the form of the hair composition, the cationic surfactant is at least one compound selected from the group consisting of the following: i. alkylquats, esterquats, in. quaternary imidazoline, iv. amidoamines and/or cationized amidoamines and v. mixtures thereof [0042] The cationic surfactant component may comprise at least one compound selected from one or more of the following groups: quaternary ammonium compounds (alkylquats) having at least one C8-C24-alkyl radical, quaternary imidazolines, esterquats, amidoamines each having at least one C8-C24-acyl radical, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] Particularly preferred quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical are ammonium halides, especially chlorides, and ammonium alkyl sulphates, such as methosulphates or ethosulphates, such as C8-C24 alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides. C8-C24 dial kyl dim ethylamm on ium chlorides and C8-C24 trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride, Steartrimonium Chloride, distearyl dimethylammonium ehloride,lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetyhnethylammonium chloride. The alkyl chains of the surfactants mentioned above preferably have 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Preferably, the cationic surfactant component ii) comprises Cetrimonium chloride and/or Beh entrim on ium Chloride.
[0044] When present, the quaternary imidazoline may have the following formula: R16 N® R18
X
wherein Rth represents a Cl -C6 alkyl group R17. R18 independently of one another represent a C7-C27-alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22-alkyl group, and X-is a physiologically tolerable anion. Suitable such compounds include Quaternium-87 (available from Evonik as Varisoft W 575 PG).
[0045] Suitable imidazolium compounds are known under the INC1 names Quatemium- 27, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87 and Quaternium-91. A preferred compound is Quatemium-87.
[0046] Esterquats are cationic surfactants which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural element and furthermore at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical or C8-C24 acyl radical. The esterquat may have the following formula: e T19 x e R21 0 R20 0 R22 wherein RI9 and R20 independently of one another represent a C1-C6-alkyl group or a C2-C6-hydroxyalkyl group, R21, R2 independently of one another represent a C7-C27-alkyl group, preferably a C 1 0-C22-alkyl group, and X-is a physiologically tolerable anion, [0047] Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quatenized ester salts of fatty acids with dictlaanolaIkylamincs and quatcmizcd ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trademarks Stepantexk, Dehyquartk and Annocarek. N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium methosulphates and Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfates are preferred examples of such esterquats, particularly Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate. A further preferred esterquat is Bchcnoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride.
[0048] Alkylarnidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic Cs-C24 fatty acids with di-(C1-C3)alkylaminoamines.
[0049] Suitable amines may have the following formula: NR231224R25 wherein R23, R24 independently of one another represent a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, and R25 represents a Cs-C2s-alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22-alkyl group.
100501 The cationic surfactants of the formula NR23R24R25 arc amine derivatives, so-called pseudoquats. The organic residues R. R24 and R25 are directly bound to the nitrogen atom. In the acid pH range these are cationized, i.e. the nitrogen atom is then protonated. The physiologically compatible counterions are suitable as counterions. Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine and Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine are particularly preferred as these cationic surfactants [0051] The cationic component may comprise or consist of a mixture of one or more alkylquats and one more amidoamines is preferred, for example a mixture of Quatemium87, Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride, Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate and Behentrimonium Chloride.
10052] Suitably, the hair composition of the present invention is used as a hair shampoo, so the hair composition preferably comprises at least one anionic surfactant, and optionally at least one cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactant. Suitably, such a shampoo comprises at least one anionic surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant, and optionally at least one amphoteric, zwitterionic or cationic surfactant.
10053] Regardless of the form of the hair composition defined herein, examples of the anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants are as follows.
10054] Anionic surface-active substances that are suitable for use on the hmnan body are suitable as anionic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention. These are characterised by a water-soluble-making anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycolether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and also hydroxyl groups can be contained in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps), alkylether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides, acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid monoesters and dialkylesters and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters, linear alkane sulfonates, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, alkylsulfates and alkylether sulfates and also alkyl and/or alkenyl phosphates. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkylether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids each having 10 to 18 C atoms, preferably 12 to 14 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycolether groups, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups in the molecule. The positively-charged counterion can be selected from any cosmetically-suitable counterion, as well understood by the skilled person. Suitable counterions are alkali metals (preferably sodium or potassium) and ammonium. Examples of such surfactants are the compounds with the INC1 names Sodium Laurcth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Carboxylate. Preferred anionic surfactants are Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Launil Sulfate or a mixture thereof.
[0055] Surface-active compounds that carry, in the molecule, at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group are referred to as zwitterionic surfactants. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are known as betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coco-alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coco-acylaminopropyl-dimethylammonimn glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxvmethy1-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines, each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and also coco-acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocoamidopropyl Betaine [0056] Amphotcric surfactants are understood to be surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cs-C34 alkyl or acyl group, also contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SOH group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N- alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N -hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acids, and alkyl amino acetic acids each having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-coco-alkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and Cu-Cs acyl sarcosine.
100571 Nonionic surfactants may have a hydrophilic end which may be charge neutral, such as an ethoxylate, glycoside, or polyol; such surfactants may not be sensitive to water hardness. Suitable nonionic surfactants as contemplated herein include the following: * addition products of from about 4 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or from about 0 to about 5 mol propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms, or fatty acids containing from about 12 to about 22 C atoms or alkyl phenols containing from about 8 to about 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, * addition products of ethylene oxide and polyglycerine with methylglucos de fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, * C8-C30 fatty acid mono-and -diesters of addition products of from about I to about 30 mol ethylene oxide or glycerin, for example those with the INCI names PEG(1-10) Glyceryl Cocoate, in particular PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate.
* amine oxides, for example at least one compound with general formula (1) or (11): o in which R respectively represents a linear or branched, saturated or mono-or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing from about 6 to about 24 carbon atoms, for example containing from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.
o Suitable surfactants are those with the aforementioned formulae (I) or (II) with the INCI names cocamine oxide, lauramine oxide ancUor cocamidopropylamine oxide, which are commercially available from a number of different suppliers.
* sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polysorbates, * fatty acid alkanolarnides with the following general formula: o in which R suitably represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms and the residues R' represent hydrogen or the group (CHz)^OH, in which n represents the numbers from about 2 or about 3, with the proviso that at least one of the residues R' represents the aforementioned residue -(CH2),,OH, o in particular those compounds known by the INCI names Cocarnide MEA and/or Cocamide MIPA, * C8-C30 fatty acid mono-and di-esters of addition products of from about 1 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide with glycerine, in particular the compound known by the INCI name PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate; and/or addition products of from about 4 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or from about 0 to about 5 mol propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms.
* fatty acid esters of sugars and addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid esters of sugar, * addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, * alkyl(oligo)glucosides, for example compounds with general formula RO-rGlx, in which I GI preferably derives from aldoscs andIor ketoses containing from about 5 to about 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.
o The index x represents the degree of oligomerization (DO), i.e. the distribution of the mono-and oligo-glycosides. The index x preferably has a value in the range from about 1 to about 10, for example in the range from about 1 to about 3, wherein in this regard, it does not have to be a whole number but may be a fractional number which can be determined analytically.
o Suitable alkyl(oligo)glycosides have a degree of oligomerization of between from about 1.2 and about 1.5.
o The residue R suitably represents at least one alkyl-and/or alkenyl residue containing from about 4 to about 24 C atoms.
o Examples of alkyl(oligo)glucosides are known by the INC1 names caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, taunt glucoside and coco glucoside, * mixtures of alkyl(oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, * addition products of from about 5 to about 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil or hydrogenated castor oil, for example PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, * partial esters of polyols containing from about 3 to about 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms, * sterols. "Sterols" should be understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxy group on C3 of the steroid backbone and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and also from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytostcrols are ergosterol, stigmastcrol and sitosterol. Sterols are also isolated from fungi and yeasts: they are known as mycosterols.
* phospholipids. This primarily means glucose-phospolipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from egg yolk or from plant seeds (for example soyabeans).
* hydrogenated castor oil.
[0058] Preferred fatty alcohol ethoxylates are those in which the fatty alcohol portion of the fatty alcohol ethoxylate has an alkyl chain length of C4-C30, preferably C6-C25, preferred C8-C20, and/or in which die number of ethoxy groups in the fatty alcohol ethoxylate is from about 2 to about 120, preferably from about 4 to about 100, more preferably from about 6 to about 80, more preferably from about 8 to about 60, most preferably from about 10 to about 40.
[0059] Preferably, the or each fatty alcohol ethoxylate is selected from ethoxylates of Beheneth, Ceteareth, Ceteth, Pareth, and Deeeth, preferably of Ceteareth, more preferably Ceteareth-20. Preferably, the fatty alcohol propoxylate is PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether.
[0060] Another suitable alkoxylate is one which is an alkoxylate of a non-fatty alcohol.
For example, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate is an alkoxylated derivative of benzyl alcohol, and useful as a nonionic surfactant 100611 A mixture of the following surfactants in a shampoo composition is particularly advantageous: Sodium Laureth Sulfate; Cocoamidopropyl Betaine; Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate: Coeamide ME*, and PEG-7 Glyeeryl Cocoatc.
[0062] A mixture of the following surfactants in a conditioner composition is particularly advantageous: Quatemium-87, Bchenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride, Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate and Behentrimonium Chloride.
[0063] As will be well understood by the skilled person, it is common to include one or more fatty compounds in cosmetic compositions. By fatty compounds are meant fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present in both solid form as well as liquids in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
[0064] The hair compositions disclosed herein may comprise as an optional component at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C8-C30 alcohol.
[0065] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include C12-13 alcohols, C12-15 alcohols, C 12-16 alcohols, C14-22 alcohols, C16-17 isoalcohols, C20-22 alcohols, arachidyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, hexyldecycloctaclecanol, tetradccyleicosanol, coconut alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostemyl alcohol, stcaryl alcohol and lauryl alcohol. Preferably, the fatty alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of arachidyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristvl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, hexyldecycloctadecanol, tetradecyleicosanol, coconut alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol. More preferably, the fatty alcohol may be cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof [0066] The hair compositions disclosed herein may further comprise as an optional component saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C8-C30 carboxylic acids and/or their salts, preferably C 10-C22 carboxylic acids and/or their salts and in particular coconut acids, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid and mixtures thereof and/or the salts of these acids. Stearic acid and palmitic acid and/or the salts of these acids, in particular stearic acid and palmitic acid, are particularly suitable.
[0067] The hair compositions disclosed herein may comprise as an optional component: * at least one mono-, di-or tri-ester of glycerin and a fatty acid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and/or * at least one mono-or di-ester of ethylene glycol and a fatty acid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
The C8-C30 component of the fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched. Suitable examples include glyceryl stearate and glycol distearate.
[0068] The total amount of fatty compounds included in the compositions disclosed herein (other than the fatty fat or oil component a) ranges from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 1 to about 15% by weight, particularly preferably from about 2 to about 10% by weight; in each case based on the weight of the composition.
[0069] Alternatively or in addition to the fatty compounds described above, the hair composition of the present invention may also comprise at least one fat or oil having a melting point of 20°C or higher. In the context of a solid fat or oil, "solid" means the compound has a melting point of 20°C or higher. Suitably, the or each fat or oil has a melting point of 25°C or higher, or 30°C or higher. Preferably, component (a) is a naturally occurring solid fat or oil, or mixture thereof These are caring substances that help to keep both the skin and hair structure healthy. Naturally occurring raw materials have the advantage that they grow back and can therefore be used sustainably. This aspect is also becoming increasingly important for many users.
[0070] Solid fats and oils include fatty acids (triglycerides); both naturally-derived products and hydrogenated derivatives thereof Also included are fatty acids esterified with glycerin to yield mono-, di-, and triglycerides.
[0071] Preferred solid fats and oils include a solid vegetable oil and/or solid vegetable butter. As already mentioned, naturally occurring raw materials have the advantage that they grow again and can therefore be used sustainably. This aspect is also becoming increasingly important for many users. in addition, some vegetable oils or butters, especially when obtained gently at low temperatures, are extremely potent skin and hair care products, as they also contain a variety of certain secondary ingredients, such as vitamins. Particularly preferred are plant butters with a melting point in the range from about 20°C to about 35°C, such as Shea Butter (INCI designation: BuNrospennum Parkii (Shea) Butter), Mango Butter (1NCi designation: Butyrospennum Parkii (Shea) Butter), Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter), Munimum Butter °NCI designation: Astrocatyum Murumum Seed Butter), Cocoa Butter (INCI designation: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter) and/or Cupuacu Butter (INCI designation: Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), Cocos Nucifem (Coconut) Oil, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil, Japan Wax, Synthetic Japan Wax, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter and mixtures thereof Shea butter (INCA designation: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter) is particularly preferred.
[0072] In addition to the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride component a) in the hair compositions disclosed herein, one or more additional cationic polymers may also be included in the hair composition. Such cationic polymers have conditioning properties, i.e. they give a pleasant feeling to the skin or hair and thus offer added value. The following polymers arc particularly suitable: * quatemized cellulose polymers, especially Polyquatemium-10, as they are commercially available under the names Celquatt and Polymer JR®, * hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example the cationic polymers marketed under the trade name SoftCatk, * cationic alkyl polyglycosides, * cationized honey, the commercial product Honeyquatt 50, * cationic guar derivatives different to the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride component a) used in the inventive composition, such as the products marketed under the trade names Cosmedia®Guar, N-Hancet and Jaguar®, * polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methamylic acid, in particular Polyquatemium-6 and Polyquatem um-7 * the products commercially available under the names Merquatt 100 (poly(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquatle550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers, * Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quatemized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrOate and methacrylate, such as vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quatemized with diethyl sulfate. Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquatt734 and Gafquatte755 * vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as offered under the names Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, * quatemated polyvinyl alcohol, * and the polymers known as Polyquatemium 2, Polyquatemium 16, Polyquatemium 17, Polyquatemium 18, Polyquatemium-24, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquatemium-32, Polyquatemium-37, Polyquatemium 74 and Polyquatemium 89.
[0073] Particularly preferred cationic polymers are quatemized cellulose polymers, hydrophobically modified quatemized cellulose polymers, cationic guar derivatives and/or cationic polymers based on acrylic acid (derivative), which are particularly preferably selected from the polymers guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride Polyquatemium-6, Polyquatemium-7, Polyquatemium-10, Polyquatemium-37 and/or Polyquatemium-67 known by the INCI designations.
[0074] Other cationic polymers obtained from natural sources On addition to guar), such as a cationic inul in polymer, are also suitable. Inul in is a polysaccharide that belongs to the group of fmctans. In addition to a terminal glucose building block, it comprises up to 60 fructose monomers in the chain, each of which is linked to one another via 13-2,1-glycosidic bonds. Munn may be obtained from the leaves, roots, fruits and/or flowers of composite and/or umbelliferous plants such as Jerusalem artichokes, artichokes and/or parsnips. Cationic inulin polymers particularly suitable according to the invention are cationically modified by reacting hydroxyl groups of die fructose building blocks with reactive quaternary ammonium compounds. Suitable quaternary ammonium compounds are preferably compounds of the following formula N-E(RIR2R3R4) X-in which RI, 122 and R1 are methyl or ethyl groups and R1 is an epoxy R5 or a halohydrin group Y-CF12-CH(OH)-Rs-, R5 a Cl-C3-alkylene group, Y is a halide and X is an anion such as Cl-, Br, Ior HSO4-. Particularly suitable cationic inulin polymers (b) for the purposes of this invention correspond to the formula R-0-0-12-CH(OH)-125-N+( RiR2123)X-, wherein R is inulin and the other radicals have the same meaning as above.
[0075] Suitable cationic inulin polymers are those that have been cationically modified with cationic hydroxv-C1-C3-alkyl-triaIkylammonium groups, in particular with hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups. 'Within this design, cationic inulin polymers known under the NC! designation Hydroxypropyltrimonium inulin and commercially available are preferred.
[0076] The cationic degree of substitution of cationic inulin polymers, in particular cationic inulins known as hydroxypropyltrimonium inulin (1NCI), can be varied and adjusted as required. For the use in the invented cosmetic compositions, it has proved to be particularly preferred if such cationically modified inulin polymers exhibit a higher degree of cationic modification (higher cationic degree of substitution), because this allows better coacervate formation and ultimately better care performance to be achieved in the preparations.
[0077] Suitable cationic inulin polymers have a cationic charge density > 1.5 meq/g, more preferably >2.0 meq/g, especially preferred > 2.5 meq/g, very especially preferred > 3.0 meq/g and especially > 3.5 meq/g. Within this design it is particularly preferred if cationic inulin polymers known under the INC1 designation hydroxypropyltrimonium inulin have b) a cationic charge density > 1.5 meq/g, more preferably > 2.0 meq/g, especially prefen-ed > 2.5 meq/g, especially preferred >3.0 meq/g and especially >3.5 meq/g. Suitable cationic inulin polymers may also have an average molecular weight of about 2,000 to 50,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 2,500 to about 40,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 3,000 to about 30,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 3,500 to about 20,000 g/mol and in particular 4,000 to 10,000 g/mol. Within this design it is particularly preferred if cationic inulin polymers known under the NCI designation hydroxypropyltrimonium inulin have n average molecular weight of about 2,000 to 50,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 2,500 to about 40,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 3,000 to about 30,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 3,500 to about 20,000 g/mol and in particular from about 4,000 to about 10,000 g/mol.
[0078] Other cationic polymer chosen from cationic polymers of natural origin, preferably cationic polygalactomannan derivatives. Galactomannans are polysaccharides consisting of combinations of mannose and galactose monomers in different contents. The mannose units are connected to each other via 13( I -4)-glycosidic bonds; the galactose units via a(1-6)-bonds. The ratio of mannose to galactose monomers varies according to the type and origin of the plant and the temperature at which it grew. In Greek fenugreek gum, the mannose-galactose ratio is about I: I (corresponding to a monomer mannose to a monomer galactose); in guar gum, about 2:1; in tara gum, about 3:1; in locust bean gum, about 4:1; and in cassia gum, about 5:1. All galactomannans from these sources are suitable for cationic modification and use as polymers in the invention cosmetic compositions. Guar gum and/or cassia gum are particularly suitable for use in cosmetic products in accordance with the invention.
[0079] Like cationic inul in polymers, galactomannans, preferably galactomannans from the above sources, can be cationicallv modified by reacting the hydroxyl groups of galactomannan polymers with reactive quaternary ammonium compounds. Suitable quaternary ammonium compounds are preferably compounds of the following fommla N(RIR2R3R4) X-in which RI, R2 and R3 are methyl or ethyl groups and R4 is an epoxy R5 or a halohydrin group Y-CH2-CH(OH)-R5-, R5 is a C1-C3-alkylene group, Y is a halide and Xis an anion such as Cl, Br, P or HSO4-. Particularly suitable cationic galactomannan polymers within the meaning of this invention correspond to the formula R-O-CH2-CH(OH)-Rs-W( IFIR2R3)X-, wherein R represents the respective galactomannan and die other radicals have the same meaning as defined above.
[0080] Guar and cassia polymers known under the INCI designations guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (different to that used as component (a) in the hair composition disclosed herein) and/or cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride are available from various suppliers, for example under the designations Jaguar®, N-Hancet, Polycarek, Clearhancek, Activsoft®, Guarquatt, Vida-Caret. Jaguar® C-162, Jaguar® C500, Jaguar® Styl 100, N-Hancet 3196, N-Flancek HPCG 1000, Activsoftk C17, Guarquatk C130 KC, Guarquatk CP500 KC, Vida-Caret GHTC and/or Polycarek Split Therapy are specific examples of cationic polymers of natural origin that are particularly suitable according to the invention.
[0081] Cationic polymers suitable according to the invention are used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably in amounts of about 0.01 to 3.00 wt.%, more preferably from about 0.02 to about 2.00 wt.%, more preferably from about 0.03 to about 1.00 wt.%, more particularly preferably from about 0.04 to about 0.70 wt.%.
[0082] As is well understood by the skilled person, hair compositions, particularly shampoos, conditioners and treatments, are frequently formulated as oil-in-water emulsions. The hair compositions of the present invention may therefore be in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. The water content of such emulsions may be at least 60wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition, suitable at least 70wt%. A suitable range for the water content is from about 60 to about 95 wt%, for example from about 70 to about 90 wt%.
[0083] Suitable methods to product the compositions of the present invention for example in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, are well known to the skilled person.
[0084] In addition to the ingredients described above, the hair compositions according to the invention may contain at least one active ingredient advantageously selected from the group comprising plant extracts, liquid oils, bitter substances, humectants, protein hydrolysates, perfumes, UV filters, structuring agents such as maleic acid, dyes for staining the composition, active ingredients such as bisabolol ancUor allantoin, antioxidants, preservatives such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid, additional viscosity regulators such as salts (NaC1) or polymers, and pH regulators.
[0085] Suitable plant extracts are extracts that can be produced from all parts of a plant.
Usually, these extracts are produced by extracting the entire plant. However, in some cases it may also be preferable to produce extracts exclusively from the flowers and/or leaves of the plant. The most suitable extracts are Paeonia Lactiflora, Rosa Damascena Flower, MMus Domestica Fruit, Argania Spinosa Shell Powder, Laminaria Sacthaiina, Cannabis Sativa, Green Tea, Oak Bark, Nettle, Hamamelis, Hops, Camomile, Burdock Root, Horsetail, Hawthorn, Linden Flower, Litchi, Almond, Moe Vera, Spruce Needle, Horse Chestnut, Sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, Thyme, lemon balm, hemlock, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root. Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Boerhavia diffusa roots. Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveolens. The extracts from Paeonia Tactiflora, Rosa Damascena Flower, Malus Domestica Fruit, Argania Spinosa Shell Powder, Laminaria Saccharina, Cannabis Saliva, Green Tea, Nettle, Hamamelis, Camomile, Aloe Vera, Ginseng, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea and/or Boerhavia Diffusa roots are particularly preferred for use in the compositions according to the invention. Water, alcohols and their mixtures can be used as extraction agents for the production of the plant extracts mentioned. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol are preferred, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extraction agent and mixed with water. Plant extracts based on water/propylene glycol in a ratio of about 1:10 to 10: I have proven to be particularly suitable. The plant ex-tracts can be used in both pure and diluted form. If they are used in diluted foim, they usually contain approx. 2-80 wt.% active substance and as solvent the extraction agent or mixture of extraction agents used in their extraction. The plant extracts can be used in the hair compositions according to the invention (based on the total weight of the products) preferably in an amount of about 0.01 to 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 7.5 °./0 by weight and in particular from about 0.1 to about 5 % by weight.
[0086] Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that are obtained by acid-catalysed, base-catalysed or enzymatically catalysed breakdown of proteins. The term "protein hydrolysates" is understood in accordance with the invention to also mean total hydrolysates and also individual amino acids and derivatives thereof as well as mixtures of different amino acids. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates usable in accordance with the invention lies between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000 Daltons, and the molecular weight is preferably from about 75 to about 50,000 Daltons, and very particularly preferably from about75 to about 20,000 Daltons. Preferred protein hydrolysates include Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Pearl and Hydrolyzed Silk.
[0087] As care substance, the hair composition according to the invention can also contain at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and/or one of the derivatives thereof. Here, vitamins, provitam ins and vitamin precursors that are usually assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H arc preferred in accordance with the invention. In particular, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and Vitamin E (or a derivative thereof) are preferred.
[0088] The hair composition disclosed herein may also include a perfume. Suitably, a perfume is included in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 0.8 % by weight, preferably from about 0.2 to about 0.6 "/O, relative to the weight of the hair composition.
[0089] A bitter substance is particularly important in cosmetics, household products etc., which are made up in such a way that their shape, colour, haptics etc. appeal to small children or babies and encourage them to play, which could also lead to swallowing. A bitter substance prevents this. Denatonium Benzoate is an extremely strong bitter substance and is therefore particularly effective even at very low concentrations. Furthermore, it is not associated with any known adverse effects.
[0090] Under suitable pH control agents, particularly preferred for use in the compositions according to the invention are citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, in particular citric acid and/or lactic acid. The pH regulator may also be a base such as alkanolamines and/or sodium hydroxide.
[0091] Examples of oils include liquid oils, hydrocarbon oils, and silicone oils. It is particularly preferred that the compositions disclosed herein are contain no hydrocarbon oils. Thus, the preferred liquid oils and particularly those of natural origin.
[0092] Suitable oils are perfume oils and/or vegetable triglyceride oils, such as coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soya oil, cotton seed oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm oil, Palm seed oil, mango seed oil, cranberry oil, sea buckthorn oil, lady's smock oil, safflower oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, Wheat gerrn oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, maize oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, manila oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil and/or quinoa oil.
[0093] The invention also concerns a shampoo comprising the hair composition as disclosed herein.
[0094] The invention also concerns a conditioner comprising the hair composition as disclosed. The conditioner is suitable for the care of human hair, in particular for use after hair cleansing as a leave-on or rinse-off composition. The hair compositions disclosed herein may also be useful in hair treatments, and hair packs.
[0095] The tenns 'leave-on' and 'rinse-off mean that the composition is either left in the hair for a relatively short time, for example for less than one minute if necessary, or for a few minutes or one hour, until it is rinsed out again, or that the composition remains in the hair until the next hair wash, which may be a few days. Both have certain advantages. If the composition remains on the hair for a long time, the full care potential of all ingredients can be exploited, whereas a composition to be rinsed out in a short time can also contain ingredients that have a good care effect but whose prolonged retention in the hair would be unpleasant. Preferred in the sense of the present invention are rinse-off compositions.
[0096] The present specification is also directed to a method of repairing split ends comprising applying to the hair a hair composition according to the invention. The method includes applying the hair composition as disclosed herein to the hair. The method includes dispensing the hair composition as disclosed herein onto the user's hand, and from the user's hand onto the hair. The method may additionally include rubbing the hair. The method may include the user spreading the hair oil on their hand or hands before application to the hair.
[0097] The method as disclosed herein may also include additional, optional steps. in one example, such steps may include air drying the hair, drying the hair using heat, styling the hair, and any other suitable step that is known to an individual skilled in the art of hair treatment.
The invention disclosed herein may also be defined by the following statements.
1. A hair composition comprising: a) a hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyhrimonium chloride having an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,000,000 to about 3,500,000 g/mol; and b) a polyorganosiloxane prepared from: (i) an amine-functionalized siloxane; and (ii) an alkoxysilanc.
2. A hair composition according to statement I, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,200,000 to about 3,000,000 g/mol 3. A hair composition according to statement 1 or 2, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,300,000 to about 2,900,000 g/mol.
4. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,400,000 to about 2,900,000 g/mol 5. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has a viscosity ranging from about 600 to about 1200 mPa.s.
6. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has a viscosity ranging from about 750 to about 850 mPa.s.
7. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, wherein the amount of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride ranges from about 0.001 to about 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
8. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, wherein the amount of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride ranges from about 0.05 to about 3.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
9. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, wherein the amount of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride ranges from about 0.1 to about 2 wt%, suitably from about 0.1 to about 1 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
10. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, wherein the amount of aminofunctional polydimethylsiloxane ranges from about 0.0001 to about 10.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
11. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, wherein the amount of aminofunctional polydimethylsiloxane ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
12. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, wherein the amount of aminofunctional polydimethylsiloxane ranges from about 0.05 to about 5.0 wt%.
13. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, wherein the amount of aminofunctional polydimethylsiloxane ranges from about 0.05 to about 3.0 wt%, suitably from about 0.07 to about 1.0 wt%.
14. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, further comprising from about 5.0 to about 50.0 wt% of at least one anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
15. A hair composition according to any preceding statement further comprising at least one anionic surfactant, and optionally at least one nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
16. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, further comprising at least one anionic surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant, and optionally at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
17. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, comprising an anionic surfactant which comprises at least one water-soluble-making anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group haying 8 to 30 C atoms, optionally containing glycol or polyglycol ether groups, hydroxyl, ester, ether or amide groups.
18. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, comprising an anionic surfactant comprising at least one of: a. linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps), b. alkylether carboxylic acids, c. acyl sarcosides d. acyl taurides, c. acyl isethionatcs, sulfosuccinic acid monoesters and dialkylesters and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters, g. linear alkane sulfonates, h. linear alpha-olefin sultanates, 1. alkylsulfates and alkylether sulfates, and i* alkyl and/or a1kenyl phosphates.
19. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, comprising an anionic surfactant selected from Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Wroth Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Carboxylate and mixtures thereof 20. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, comprising an anionic surfactant selected from Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryi Sulfate or a mixture thereof 21. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, comprising a zwitterionic surfactant selected from a betaine, coco-acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate, an N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, an N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,Ndimethylammonium glycinate haying 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group, and a 2-alky1-3-carboxymethy1-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline having 8 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group.
22. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, comprising a zwitterionic surfactant comprising Cocoamidopropyl Botanic, 23. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, comprising a nonionic surfactant selected from: * addition products of from about 4 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or from about 0 to about 5 mol propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms, * fatty acids containing from about 12 to about 22 C atoms or alkyl phenols containing from about 8 to about 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, * addition products of ethylene oxide and polyglycerine with methylglucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, * C8-C30 fatty acid mono-and -diesters of addition products of from about 1 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide or glycerin, for example those with the INCI names PEG(1-10) Glyceryl Cocoate, in particular PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate.
* amine oxides, for example at least one compound with general formula (I) or (II): f) o in which R respectively represents a linear or branched, saturated or mono-or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing from about 6 to about 24 carbon atoms, for example containing from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.
o Suitable surfactants are those with the aforementioned formulae (I) or (II) with the INC.! names cocamine oxide, lauramine oxide and/or cocamidopropylamine oxide, which are commercially available from a number of different suppliers.
* sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polysorbates, * fatty acid alkanolamides with the following general formula: o in which R suitably represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms and the residues R' represent hydrogen or the group (CF12).OFT in which n represents the numbers from about 2 or about 3, with the proviso that at least one of the residues R' represents the aforementioned residue -(CH2)110H, o in particular those compounds known by the INCI names Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamidc MIPA; * C8-C30 fatty acid mono-and di-esters of addition products of from about 1 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide with glycerine, in particular the compound known by the INCI name PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate; and/or addition products of from about 4 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or from about 0 to about 5 mol propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms.
* fatty acid esters of sugars and addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid esters of sugar, * addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, * alkyl(oligo)glitcosides, for example compounds with general formula RO-[G]x, in which [Gi preferably derives from aldoses and/or ketoses containing from about 5 to about 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.
o The index x represents the degree of oligomerization (DO), i.e. the distribution of the mono-and oligo-glycosides. The index x preferably has a value in the range from about 1 to about 10, for example in the range from about 1 to about 3, wherein in this regard, it does not have to be a whole number but may be a fractional number which can be determined analytically.
o Suitable alkyl(oligo)glycosides have a degree of oligomerization of between from about 1.2 and about 1.5.
o The residue R suitably represents at least one alkyl-and/or alkenyl residue containing from about 4 to about 24 C atoms.
o Examples of alkyl(oligo)glucosides are known by the INCI names capry.flyUcapr3.4 glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and coco glucoside, * mixtures of alkyl (ol igo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, * addition products of from about 5 to about 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil or hydrogenated castor oil, for example PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, * partial esters of polyols containing from about 3 to about 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms, * sterols. "Sterols" should be understood to mean a group of steroids which can-y a hydroxy group on C3 of the steroid backbone and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and also from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytostcrols are ergosterol, stigmastcrol and sitostcrol. Sterols are also isolated from fungi and yeasts; they arc known as mycostcrols.
* phospholipids. This primarily means glucose-phospolipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from egg yolk or from plant seeds (for example soyabeans).
* hydrogenated castor oil.
24. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, comprising a nonionic surfactant comprising a Betaine, preferably Coeoamidopropyl Betaine 25. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, comprising from about 0.1 to about 15.0 wt% of at least one cationic surfactant.
26. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, comprising from about 0.5 to about 10.0 wt% of at least one cationic surfactant.
27. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, comprising a cationic surfactant selected from: i. alkylquats, csterquats, quatemn imidazoline, iv. amidoamines and/or cationized am doamines, v. and mixtures thereof.
28. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, comprising one or more of Quaternium-87, Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride, Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate and Behentrimonium Chloride.
29. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, which is a hair shampoo. This statement may also be termed "A shampoo comprising a hair composition according to any preceding statement".
30. A hair composition according to any one of statements from about I to about 28, which is a hair conditioner. This statement may also be termed "A conditioner comprising a hair composition according to any one of statements from about Ito about 28".
31. A hair composition according to statement 30, which is a leave-in hair conditioner.
32. A hair composition according to statement 30, which is a rinse-off hair conditioner.
33. A hair composition according to any one of statements from about I to about 28, which is a hair serum. This statement may also be termed "A serum comprising a hair composition according to any one of statements from about 1 to about 28".
34. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, further comprising one or more fatty compounds.
35. A hair composition according to any preceding statement further comprising at least one fatty acid, fatty alcohol, natural or synthetic wax, a solid vegetable oil or butter, or a natural or synthetic cosmetic oil 36. A hair composition according to any preceding statement further comprising, one or more additional cationic polymers.
37. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, further comprising water in an amount of at least 60wM, relative to the total weight of the composition, more suitably in an amount ranging from about 60 to about 95 wt%, for example from about 70 to about 90 wt%.
38. A hair composition according to any preceding statement, further comprising at least one active ingredient selected from the group comprising plant extracts, bitter substances, humectants, protein hydrolysates, perfumes, UV filters, structuring agents, dyes for staining the composition, active ingredients such as bisabolol and/or allantoin, antioxidants, preservatives such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid, additional viscosity regulators such as salts NaCl)( or polymers, and pH regulators.
39. A method of repairing split ends comprising applying to the hair a hair composition according to any one of statements from about 1 to about 38.
40. Use of a hair composition according to any one of statements from about I to about 38 to repair split ends.
Examples
[0098] The following compositions were prepared and found to exhibit surprising improvements in terms of semi-permanent repair of split ends [0099] Hair shampoo: Ingredient (INCI name) wt.% Sodium Laureth Sulfate 10 Cocoamidopropyl Betaine 4,0 Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate 4,0 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride* 0,5 Cocain i de MEA 0,8 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 1,0 N iacinamide 0,3 Citric acid 0,8 Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer** 0,10 Panthenol 0,5 Sodium chloride 1,3 Water, preservatives and minor ingredients, for example perfume ad 100 *provided as Polycare Split Therapy -manufactured by Solvay ** provided as Belsil ADM 8301E -manufactured by Wacker Hair conditioner: Ingredient ([MCI name) wt.% Quatemium-87 0,75 Glycol Distearate 1,0 Cetcaryl Alcohol 5.0 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride* 0,2 Polyq uatemium-37 0,4 Butnospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 1,5 Behenoyl PG -Trimonium chloride 1,5
_
Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonnun Methosulfate 0,3 Behentrimonium Chloride 0,4 Lactic acid 0,1 Pentasodium Pentetate 0,8 Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer** 0,3 Water, preservatives and minor ingredients, for example perfume ad 100 *provided as Polycare Split Therapy -manufactured by Solvay ** provided as Belsil ADM 8301E -manufactured by Wacker 101001 It will be appreciated that the invention may be modified within the scope of the appended claims.
101011 While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in the foregoing detailed description, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations exist. It should also be appreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments are only examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or configuration of the various embodiments in any way. Rather, the foregoing detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with a convenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment as contemplated herein. It being understood that various changes may be made in the function and arrangement of elements described in an exemplary embodiment without departing from the scope of the various embodiments as set forth in the appended claims.

Claims (7)

  1. CLAWS: 1. A hair composition comprising: a) a hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride having an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,000,000 to about 3,500,000 g/mol; and b) a polyorganosiloxane prepared from: (i) an amine-functionalized siloxane; and (ii) an alkoxysilane.
  2. 2. A hair composition according to claim I, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has an average molecular weight ranging from about 2,400,000 to about 2,900,000 g/mol.
  3. 3. A hair composition according to claims 1 or 2, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has a viscosity ranging from about 600 to about 1200 mPa.s.
  4. 4. A hair composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has a viscosity ranging from about 750 to about 850 mPa.s.
  5. 5. A hair composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyorganosiloxane is a 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of formula (X), CH3 A CH CH3 CH3 I 3 Si 0 in [ 0+D B_[ i0 [ Si0 [ Si 0 b a ° I CH3 CH3 CH, 0 HN (X), in which A denotes a structural unit (1), (11), or (111) bound via -0-CH, -Fli-O± C H, (I)C H I 3 NH2A(111), or an oligomeric or polymeric residue bound via -0-containing structural units of formulas (I), (II), or (III), or half of an oxygen connecting atom to a structural unit (TII), or denotes -OH, denotes a bond to one of the structural units (1), (11), or (III), or denotes a tenninal group B (Si-bound) or D (0-bound), B denotes an -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3, -0-Si(CH3)20H, -0-Si(CH3)20CH3 group, D denotes an -H, -Si(C113)3, -Si(CH3)20H, -Si(CH3)20013 group, a. b, and c denote integers from about 0 to about 990, with the provision that a + b + c >0, m, n, and o denote integers from about 2 to about 990.
  6. 6. A hair composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the am inofunctional polydimethylsiloxane comprises or consists of Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer.
  7. 7. A hair composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is a hair shampoo A hair composition according to claim 7, further comprising from about 5.0 to about 50.0 wt% of at least one anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.9. A hair composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is a hair conditioner.ID. A hair composition according to claim 9, further comprising from about 0.1 to about 15.0 wt% of at least one cationic surfactant.11. A method of repairing split ends comprising applying to the hair a hair composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.12. Use of a hair composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for repairing split ends.
GB2105629.6A 2020-04-21 2021-04-20 Hair compositions comprising a modified polysaccharide and an aminosilicone Active GB2595574B (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

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DE102020205000.7A DE102020205000A1 (en) 2020-04-21 2020-04-21 HAIR COMPOSITIONS MADE OF A MODIFIED POLYSACCHARIDE AND AN AMINOSILICONE

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DE (1) DE102020205000A1 (en)
FR (1) FR3109308B1 (en)
GB (1) GB2595574B (en)

Non-Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
Mintel GNPD (mintel.com), Record ID 3817509, "Repair ISM Conditioner" Cutrin, Feb 2016 *
Mintel GNPD Record ID 5859477, "Defense Shampoo" Rica, Jul 2018 *
Mintel GNPD, Record ID 5734555, "Rebuilding and Repairing Mask" Cosmetica Italy, Jun 2018 *

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FR3109308B1 (en) 2023-06-09
GB2595574B (en) 2022-11-09
GB202105629D0 (en) 2021-06-02
DE102020205000A1 (en) 2021-10-21
FR3109308A1 (en) 2021-10-22

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