WO2019205086A1

WO2019205086A1 - A hair cleansing composition containing natural oils

Info

Publication number: WO2019205086A1
Application number: PCT/CN2018/084803
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jingbo RUAN; Zebao JIA; Tan WANG; Zhaoxia Bao; Xiaopeng Hong
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co., Ltd.; Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2018-04-27
Filing date: 2018-04-27
Publication date: 2019-10-31
Also published as: WO2019206471A1

Abstract

A transparent cosmetic composition, in particular a hair cleansing composition, comprising at least one natural oil in a high amount, especially an amount of not less than 1% by weight, a specific solubilizer, and selected thickening agents. The composition is a transparent, especially clear, long-term and good foaming composition, providing high quality care to the hair.

Description

A Hair Cleansing Composition containing Natural Oils

Technical field

The invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and relates to a transparent cosmetic composition, in particular a hair cleansing composition, comprising natural oils. The composition provides the hair with improved physical-optical properties. The composition is transparent, ideally clear, thus having an attractive optical appearance. The composition combines the deliverance of caring compounds to the hair with an appealing appearance of the composition.

Background art

The entire human body, with the exception of the lips, the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, is covered with hair, albeit for a large part barely visible. Because of the many nerve endings at the hair root, hair reacts sensitively to external influences such as wind or touch and is therefore a part of the sense of touch that should not be underestimated. However nowadays, the most important function of human head hair lies in helping to create the appearance of the person in a characteristic manner. Similarly to the skin, it fulfils a social function since, via its outward appearance, it contributes considerably to interpersonal relations and to the self-esteem of an individual via its outward appearance.

The hair consists of the hair shaft and the hair root. The hair shaft protrudes freely from the skin, and is a keratinized (dead) section of the hair. The hair shaft represents the actual visible part of the hair, which is continually renewed. The hair root sticks in the skin and is the living part of the hair. The hair shaft is composed of three layers: the central part, which is called medulla, is regressed in humans, often completely missing; followed by the cortex; and cuticle as the outermost layer, comprising up to ten horny layers.

Provided there are no pathological changes, it is virtually impossible to improve human hair in its freshly grown condition. The part of the hair in the vicinity of the scalp accordingly has a virtually closed horny layer. In particular, the horny layer, being the external sheath of the hair, but also the inner region below the cuticle are subjected to particular stress by environmental influences.

Sunlight, mechanical stress by intensive combing or brushing, hair treatments, such as hair colorations, bleaching and permanent waving, but also hair shaping using a hair dryer or other tools can cause damage.

One aim of hair care and thus also of the present invention is to retain the natural state of freshly grown hair over as long a period as possible and, in the case of loss, to restore it. A silky shine, low porosity and a pleasant, smooth feel are features of natural healthy hair.

One possibility to support hair looking healthy and natural is to provide hair with natural oils.

The outermost layer of hair, the cuticle, is build up from shingle-like structures. These structures are mainly composed of keratin. The outermost layer of the cuticle, also called epicuticle, is a rather hydrophobic layer, the hydrophobicity being achieved by 18-methyleicosanoic acid which is covalently bound through thioester linkages to the outer surface of cuticle cells.

Dry or damaged hair may be characterized by the fact that the shingles of the cuticle are not forming an intact outmost layer any more. In consequence, hair may lose natural moisturizing factors and water.

Natural oils may well interact with the outermost layer of the cuticle and help hair to restore the outermost layer, thus preventing a further loss of moisturizing factors and water.

However, to achieve a substantial and long-lasting effect, higher amounts of natural oils have to be applied to hair. Higher amounts of these oils are even more important, if rinse-off compositions are intended to provide hair with natural oils.

A drawback of rinse-off compositions containing high amounts of natural oils, especially amounts of about 1%by weight, is a cloudy and hazy appearance of the compositions. Moreover, the foaming, especially referring to the amount of foam, is bad and said rinse-off compositions often lack stability.

Prior art discloses rinse-off compositions containing natural oils.

WO 2011/113501 A1 describes means for treating hair containing at least four different oils. Three different combinations of oils are included in shampoo compositions. The application remains silent relating to transparency of the compositions.

WO 2014/177292 A1 (CN 105163808 A) discloses hair care shampoo compositions containing anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, mono-or dialkanolamides, native oils and cationic polysaccharides, wherein the specific weight ratios of the surfactants and alkanolamides are relevant. In the respective compositions the native oils are contained only in relatively small amounts, 0.01 to 0.3 %by weight. The issue to provide clear oil-containing rinse-off compositions is not referred to.

EP 2328544 B1 (US 20110124542 A1) discloses clear compositions containing surfactants and oils, wherein the oils are stabilized by a mixtures of selected solubilizers. Oils may be contained in an amount of 0.005 to 20 %by weight, but the examples disclose only the amount of 0.2 %by weight of sweet almond oil.

There are already hair shampoo products in the market containing oils, for instance Vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil; an example for such a product is Avon Advance Techniques Supreme Oils, information referring to this product is available in the Mintel data base, number 4626283. Relating to this product there is no disclosure of referring to transparency of the composition.

Starting from the disclosure of prior art there is still a need for transparent, especially clear hair cleansing compositions containing an amount of at least one natural oil of not less than 1%by weight generating a sufficiently high amount of foam upon use and a reliable long-term stability of the composition.

Summary of the invention

Inventors of the present invention found out that a cleansing composition containing natural oils in high amounts combined with selected solubilizers and thickeners will result in a transparent, long-term stable and good foaming composition providing high quality care to the hair

In a first aspect, the present invention provides a transparent, especially clear cosmetic composition for cleansing hair, comprising

- at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant,

- at least one natural oil,

- at least one solubilizer selected from ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oils, and

- at least one thickening agent selected from alkanolamides, ethoxylated fatty acids and ethoxylated fatty acid esters of polyols.

In a further aspect, the composition comprises preferably 0.05 to 5.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.0 %by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition, of at least one natural oil.

Furthermore, the composition may optionally comprise the auxiliary components as listed in the part of "detailed description of the invention" , selected from conditioning components such as cationic polymers and/or selected silicones, anti-dandruff agents, preservatives, pH adjusting compounds, and additives.

In addition to the above components and the auxiliary components, the composition comprises a balance amount of water, so that all the components amount to 100%by weight. The composition according to the invention is an aqueous one, containing water in an amount of at least 48%by weight, preferably at least 52 %by weight, relative to the toal weight of the composition.

In another aspect, the present invention refers to use of at least one solubilizer selected from ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oils and at least one thickening agent selected from alkanolamides, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of polyols in a cosmetic composition for cleansing hair containing at least one natural oil for providing a transparent, especially clear composition. Preferably, the at least one solubilizer selected from ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oils and at least one thickener selected from alkonalamides, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of polyols are used in a cosmetic composition for cleansing hair containing 0.1 to 3.0 %by weight, especially not less than 1%by weight of at least one natural oil, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant for providing a transparent, especially clear composition. More preferably, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and/or PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and Cocamide MEA are used in the cosmetic composition for cleansing hair containing 0.1 to 3.0 %by weight, especially not less than 1%by weight of at least one natural oil, at least one alkylether sulfate and at least one alkyl amidopropyl betaine for providing a transparent, especially clear composition.

In another aspect, the present invention refers to use of a composition of the present invention for providing high-quality care for the hair. The high-quality care results in natural and healthy looking hair.

Detailed description of the invention

The cosmetic composition according to the invention includes at least one natural oil, the natural oil being a triglyceride or triglycerides originated from plants or animals. Triglycerides are esters derived from glycerol and three fatty acids. According to the invention the hair cleansing composition may contain one natural oil or mixtures of natural oils. Preferred natural oils are derived from plants, more preferably being coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil (Prunus Amygdalus (Dulcis) ) , walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil (Persea Gratissima) , tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil (Helianthus Annuus) , tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil (Vitis vinifera) , amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil (O/ea Europaea) , wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, and jojoba oil. Even more preferred is a composition according to the invention which contains grape seed oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil and/or olive oil as natural oil (s) .

Anionic surfactants suitable for the present invention comprise, but are not limited to sulfate, sulfonate, sarcosinate and sarcosine derivatives.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkali-and/or ammonium salts of alkylsulfate and/or alkylethersulfate. It is more preferred, if the alkylsulfates and/or alkylethersulfates are in the form of ammonium or sodium salts. It is also more preferred, if the alkylsulfates and/or alkylethersulfates have alkyl substituents containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, even more preferred are alkylsulfates and/or alkylethersulfates with alkyl substituents containing 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Most preferred are alkylsulfates and/or alkylethersulfates characterized in that the alkyl substituent contains a lauryl group. An example of the most preferred alkylsulfates and/or alkylethersulfates is sodium laureth sulfate.

The at least one anionic surfactant is preferably contained in a total amount of 1 to 30 %by weight, more preferably 5 to 25 %by weight, still more preferably 10 to 20 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the anionic surfactants.

The amphoteric surfactants suitable for the present invention are the substances commonly known in the art to be used in hair care or personal care cleansing composition, such as those described in CN 101164520 A and DE 202015002188 U1. According to the invention, the amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkyl-and/or alkylamidopropyl betaines. It is more preferred, if the alkyl-and/or alkylamidopropyl betaines have alkyl substituents containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Even more preferred are alkyl-and/or alkylamidopropyl betaines with alkyl substituents containing 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Most preferred are alkyl-and/or alkylamidopropylbetaines wherein the alkyl substituent is a lauryl group. Advantageously, lauramidopropyl betaine is used.

The at least one amphoteric surfactant is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.5 to 15 %by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 12.5 %by weight, still most preferably 1.5 to 10 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the amphoteric surfactants.

According to the invention, the at least one solubilizer is selected from ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oils. Adventageously, the degree of ethoxylation of the ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oils ranges from 25 to 100, preferably 30 to 80, more preferably 35 to 70 and most preferably 40 to 60. Examples of very suitable ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oils are PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and/or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil. PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil may be purchased from BASF as

CO 40 and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil may be purchased from BASF as

CO 60 or as Croduret ^TM 60 from Croda or as

HCO 060 from Clariant.

Advantageously, the total amount of one or more solubilizer (s) is in the range from 0.5 to 35 %by weight, preferably in the range from 0.75 to 30 %by weight, more preferably in the range from 1.0 to 25 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The at least one thickening agent is selected from alkanolamides, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of polyols. Polyols may be defined as polyhydric alcohols having at least two hydroxyl groups.

The composition according to the invention contains compounds influencing the consistency of the composition. By adding such compounds the viscosity of the composition can be adjusted. These components will be called thickening agents. They function by enlarging the micelles of the surfactants or by swelling the aqueous phase.

Preferred alkanolamides are the C2 -C4 mono-and/or dialkanolamides of at least one C8 -C24 carboxylic acid. More preferred are ethanol and/or isopropanol amides of C8 -C24 carboxylic acids. C2 -C4 mono-and/or dialkanolamides having the INCI names Cocamide MEA, Cocamide Methyl MEA, Cocamide DEA, Cocamide MIPA, Lauramide MEA, Lauramide DEA, Lauramide MIPA, Palmitoylamide MEA, Palmitoylamide DEA, Stearamide MEA, and Stearamide DEA are especially more preferred. It is most preferred, if Cocamide MEA or Cocamide Methyl MEA is contained in the composition according to the invention. In a further embodiment it is also most preferred, if Cocamide MEA or Cocamide Methyl MEA is contained together with one or more alkanolamide (s) different from Cocamides MEA or Cocamide Methyl MEA.

Advantageously, the at least one alkanolamides is contained in the composition of the present invention in a total amount of 0.3 to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 2.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferred ethoxylated fatty acids are the C8 -C30 fatty acids with a degree of ethoxylation of 50 to 300, preferably 100 to 200. More preferred are C12 -C22 fatty acids. Most preferred are PEG-150 distearate and PEG-150 dioleate. PEG-150 distearate may be purchased as

PEG 6000 DS A from Evonik or as

PEG 6000 DS from Hallstar.

Advantageously, the at least one ethoxylated fatty acid is contained in the composition of the present invention in a total amount of 0.3 to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 2.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferred ethoxylated fatty acid esters of polyols are derived from C8 -C30 fatty acids with a degree of ethoxylation of 100 to 250, preferably 120 to 200. More preferred are esters derived from C12 - C22 fatty acids. Most preferred are PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate and PEG-120 methylglucose trioleate. PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate may be purchased as

120 PLUS from EVONIK or Glucamate ^TM DOE-120 Syrup Thickener from Lubrizol. PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate may be purchased as Crothix ^TM from Croda.

Advantageously, the at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester of polyols is contained in the composition of the present invention in a total amount of 0.3 to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 2.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition of the present invention contains a combination of the thickening agents, described above. It is preferred, if Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamide Methyl MEA and PEG-150 distearate and/or PEG-150 dioleate are contained in the composition of the present invention.

It is preferred, if Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamide Methyl MEA and PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate and/or PEG-120 methylglucose trioleate are contained in the composition of the present invention.

Additionally, it is preferred, if the composition according to the present invention contains NaCI in amounts that a thickening effect is achieved. NaCI is preferably contained in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition of the present invention contains Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamide Methyl MEA and PEG-150 distearate and/or PEG-150 dioleate and NaCI.

Also advantageously, the composition of the present invention contains Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamide Methyl MEA and PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate and/or PEG-120 methylglucose trioleate and NaCI.

According to the invention additional components may be contained.

Advantageously, conditioning components may be comprised. Cationic polymers are useful conditioning components. Such polymers may be of natural origin or synthetic polymers.

The polymers of natural origin may be based on the guar molecule which is modified in such a way that cationic substituents are introduced or substituents which are cationic at specific pH values, specifically at those pH values of the hair cleansing composition. An example of the modified guar molecules is Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, which is a preferred component of the present invention.

Cationic polymers derived from cellulose are also advantageous. As in the case of guar the substituents introduced confer cationic qualities to the cellulose molecule. An example which is preferred in the present invention is Polyquaternium-10. Polyquaternium-10 may be purchased as UCARE ^TM Polymer JR 125, LR 400, and JR 400 from DOW;

SC-230M Polymer and

SC-140CG Polymer from AkzoNobel.

Cationic polymers of synthetic origin may be contained in the composition according to the present invention, for example Polyquaternium 74.

The cationic polymers are used in amounts of 0.001 to 1.5 %by weight, preferably 0.01%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the cationic polymers.

A further class of components conferring care to the hair are selected silicones compounds, especially amodimethicones and polyether modified silicones.

Amodimethicones are polydimethylsiloxanes, which are aminofunctional. In general, the aminofunctionality is due to the substitution of internal or terminal side chain methyl groups by -NH-containing groups. According to the invention, amodimethicones may be purchasesed as 8566 or 8500 from Dow, or AF100, AF200 from Evonik.

Polyether modified silicones are silicone molecules which contain a linear and/or partially crosslinked silicone part and polyethylene glycol substituents. It is preferred, when the polyethylene glycol substituents contain 10 to 20, especially 15 to 18 ethylene glycol units. PEG-17 Dimethicone is a preferred example for this class of silicones. PEG-17 Dimethicone may be purchased as Silsoft 895 dimethicone polyol from Momentive. A further preferred example is PEG-12 Dimethicone. PEG-12 Dimethicone may be purchased as

OFX-0193 Fluid from Dow Corning.

According to the invention it is preferred, if the amodimethicones and polyether modified silicones are contained in an amount of 0.05 to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.1%to 3 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the silicones.

The hair cleansing composition of the present invention may contain anti-dandruff agents. As the composition of the invention is transparent, only those anti-dandruff agents are contained, which do not lead to a turbid or opaque composition. Suitable examples are climbazole or piroctone olamine.

Suitable anti-dandruff agents are contained in an amount of 0.05 to 2.0 %by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the antidandruff.

The hair cleansing composition of the present invention may comprise preservatives, which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations. However, it is preferred to use benzoic acid and/or sodium benzoate, sorbic acid and/or sodium sorbate, and/or salicylic acid and/or sodium salicylate. More preferred is a composition according to the present invention containing sodium benzoate.

Advantageously, the total amount of benzoic acid and/or sodium benzoate, sorbic acid and/or sodium sorbate, and/or salicylic acid and/or sodium salicylate is 0.05 to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 1.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a further embodiment the preservatives Benzyl Alcohol, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof are contained in the composition according to the present invention.

Advantageously, the preservatives Benzyl Alcohol, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, and/or Phenoxyethanol are contained in the composition of the present invention in a total amount of. 0.0001 to 5.0 %by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 2.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the preservatives.

In a further embodiment suitable combinations of preservatives chosen from the group of benzoic acid and/or sodium benzoate, sorbic acid and/or sodium sorbate, and/or salicylic acid and/or sodium salicylate and from the group of Benzyl Alcohol, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol may be contained in the composition according to the present invention.

The pH value of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted by all means suitable for a cosmetic composition. However, it is preferred, if suitable amounts of a-and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and/or glycolic acid, are contained to adjust the pH value to a pH value ≤ 7.0. It is even more preferred, if citric acid is contained to adjust the pH value of the composition according to the present invention.

Additionally, further additives may be contained in the composition according to the invention, for example:

- UV filters,

- additional thickening agents, such as gelatin or plant gum, for example,

agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, flaxseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g.,

methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose, and carboxymethyl cellulose,

starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin, and

dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such as, e.g., bentonite,

- active substances such as vitamins and plant extracts,

- complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid, and phosphonic acids,

- ceramides; ceramides are understood to be N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs thereof (so-called pseudo-ceramides) ,

- antioxidants.

The composition according to the present invention may be contained in every suitable packaging allowing a simple withdrawal from the packaging. However, as the composition of present invention is transparent, especially packaging containers being translucent or transparent are preferred. A transparent packaging and a clear composition convey the impression of cleanliness.

Although the composition of the present invention is mainly directed to a hair cleansing composition, said composition is suited as well in the field of skin cleansing.

Preparation method

The composition of the present invention can be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a hair cleansing composition. The process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques. For example, the methods as disclosed in DE 202015002188 U1 and CN 101164520 A may be suitable.

Specifically, compositions of the present invention and comparative compositions are preferably produced by the following procedure. Table I discloses a basic composition for which the process of making is illustrated. The procedure is applicable for all compositions described herein.

For manufacturing a batch of one of the compositions mentioned in the present invention, an IKA RW20 digital or IKA Eurostar stir equipment and a stirrer, e.g. a paddle stirrer is used.

- Combine the anionic surfactant and the thickening agent (s) , for example Sodium Laureth Sulfate, PEG-150 Distearate and Cocamide MEA, to phase A and heat phase A to 75℃, while stirring for about 15 minutes;

- Phase B: Dissolve the cationic polymer, for example Polyquaternium-10, in an appropriate amount of water at room temperature (25℃) ;

- Add phase B to A, resulting in A+B;

- Phase C: Amphoteric surfactant, for example lauramidopropylbetaine;

- Add phase C to phase A+B, resulting in A+B+C;

- Phase D: Dissolve perfume and natural oil, for instance Vitis Vinifera seed oil, in the solubilizer, for example PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil;

- Phase E: Dissolve a pH-adjuster, for instance citric acid, in water;

- Phase F: Dissolve a preservative in a suitable solvent, for instance sodium benzoate in water;

- Combine phase A+B+C with the phases D, E, and F, stir for about 20 minutes.

The composition according to the present invention should have viscosity values in a defined range. Advantageously, viscosity values range from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa·s. A Brookfield viscosimeter, type DV-II, is used to determine the viscosity values. The measurements are conducted at 25℃, using a 3#spindle at a speed of 100 rpm. If different speeds are necessary, the respective values are indicated.

The foamabilty of compositions containing surfactants may be determined by the method of Ross-Miles. Additionally, the stability of foam may be measured. The amount of foam is evaluated by determining the height of foam in [mm] under standardized conditions.

The turbidity values that are disclosed in the present specification have been determined using a turbidity measuring device (2100N TURBIDMETER from HACH) , with distilled water with a value of NTU＜0.1 serving as standard. The samples were undiluted. NTU is an abbreviation of Nephelometric Turbidity Unit.

Small turbidity values indicate clear compositions (values up to 30 NTU) . High turbidity values are determined for compositions, which are cloudy and/or hazy (values greater than 100 NTU) . The turbidity values of opaque compositions are not determinable.

In the meaning of the present invention “transparent” means that a composition has an NTU of 30 or less.

One aim of the present invention was to provide an aqueous, transparent, especially clear composition containing natural oils in relatively high amounts. It became apparent that the addition of specific solubilizers and thickening agents had a significant effect on the turbidity of the composition.

Variations in the concentration of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and Vitis Vinifera seed oil showed that raising the amount of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and keeping the concentration of Vitis Vinifera seed oil constant (Table II, Example 3 to 5; Figure 1) , clear compositions could be achieved, if the weight ratio of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor to Vitis finifera seed oil increased, especially ratios equal or greater than 5: 1 resulted in clear solutions. The amount of the thickening agent, Cocamide Methyl MEA was kept constant.

In a second series of experiments the effect of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil was compared (Table III, Figure 2) . By the incorporation of PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil in compositions according to the invention clear preparations could be achieved, too. The turbidity values and the photographs reveal that the incorporation of PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil provides slightly better results.

Furthermore, different natural oils were analyzed (Table IV, Figure 3) . It became apparent that there are slight differences in the amount of solubilizer needed referring to the different analyzed oils. Whereas for Vitis vinifera seed oil 5 parts of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is sufficient to solubilize one part of Vitis Vinifera seed oil, for Persea gratissima oil and Prunus Amygdalus dulcis oil 8 parts of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil are needed to solubilize one part of the respective oil and for Olea Europaea Fruit Oil and Helianthus Annuus seed oil 10 parts of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil are necessary to solubilize one part of the respective oil.

Besides providing transparent, especially clear compositions, the preparations have to be pourable from the packaging, but they must not be thin fluid. To characterize this property, viscosity measurements were conducted. Viscosity values greater than 1000 mPa·sare suitable viscosity values indicating pourable, but not thin fluid compositions. To improve the viscosity values, combinations of Cocamide MEA together with further thickening agents were analyzed (Table V, Figure 4) . The concentrations of Vitis vinifera seed oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, and Cocamide MEA were kept constant. The addition of NaCI in an amount of 1%by weight resulted in an increase of the viscosity value, but the preparation was still too thin fluid. If a further solubilizer was incorporated in the compositions, the viscosity values increased, indicating a further improvement of the preparations. The addition of PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate resulted in the highest viscosity values and also the best preparations in relation to flowability.

To evaluate the long-term stability, preparations containing PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (solubilizer) , Vitis vinifera seed oil (natural oil) and Cocamide MEA alone (example 26) , and Cocamide MEA together with PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (example 28) were kept at room temperature for 1, 30, 90 and 180 days. The viscosity values were determined at the respective times. It became apparent that only the preparations according to example 28 were transparent and stable over the time analyzed. For preparations showing suitable viscosity values and hence a good flowability, combinations of thickening agents were advantageously, especially combinations of cocamide MEA and PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate. Furthermore, said preparations were clear and built a very sufficient foam. The addition of Acrylates Copolymer (table VI, figure 5, example 27) together with Cocamide MEA did not result in transparent preparations.

Summing up, it is to be stated that transparent, especially clear, compositions containing natural oils in higher amounts, especially amounts greater than 1%by weight, by incorporating specific solubilizers and selected thickening agents. Moreover said compositions have a good flowability and long-term stability.

Many of the preparations were analyzed in relation to the foam. A sufficient foam is indicated by a “foam height” ≥120 mm. For most of the preparations analyzed a sufficient amount of foam could be shown.

Brief description of the Figures

Fig. 1 shows the experiments evaluating the influence of different amounts of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil on transparency of compositions containing varying amounts of Vitis Vinifera seed oil (Table II) ;

Fig. 2 shows the comparison of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (Table III) ;

Fig. 3 shows the analysis of different natural oils (Table IV) ;

Fig. 4 shows the studies on the improvement of viscosity values (Table V) ; and

Fig. 5 shows the stability tests (Table VI) .

Examples:

Table I: Basic composition and process to produce it

The amounts given are referring to the raw materials; if necessary, the respective active content is given in parentheses.

Table II: Influence of different amounts of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil on the transparency of compositions containing varying amounts of Vitls Vinifera Seed Oil

Example	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8
INCI\name of the test sample	OT 1	OT 16	OT 26	OT 17	OT 18	OT 27	OT 5	OT 7
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (25%)	50, 4	50, 4	50, 4	50, 4	50, 4	50, 4	50, 4	50, 4
Cocamide Methyl MEA	1, 2	1, 2	1, 2	1, 2	1, 2	1, 2	1, 2	1, 2
Polyquaternium-10	0, 3	0, 3	0, 3	0, 3	0, 3	0, 3	0, 3	0, 3
Aqua	39	38, 8	38, 3	37, 8	37, 3	32	31	25
Lauramidopropyl Betaine (30%)	8	8	8	8	8	8	8	8
Sodium Benzoate	0, 4	0, 4	0,4	0, 4	0, 4	0, 4	0, 4	0, 4
Parfum	0, 5	0, 5	0, 5	0, 5	0, 5	0, 5	0, 5	0, 5
Citric Acid	0, 2	0, 2	0, 2	0, 2	0, 2	0, 2	0, 2	0, 2
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil			0, 5	1	1, 5	6	7	12
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil (grape)		0, 2	0, 2	0, 2	0, 2	1	1	2

Viscosity [mpa·s] 100 RPM	875	673	202	102	88	26	32	162
Foam [mm]	191	118			178	151	153	150
Turbidity [NTU]	3, 28	1261	1127	15, 4	7, 34	10, 1	1, 87	2, 3

The amounts are given in weight %and are referring to the raw materials; if necessary, the respective active content is given in parentheses.

Table III: Comparison of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Table IV: Analysis of different natural oils

Table V: Studies on the improvement of viscosity values

^＊Viscosity measurement: 12 RPM

Table VI: Stability tests

Example	26	27	28
INCI Name\sample name	OT33	OT	34	OT 35
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (25%)	50, 4	50, 4	50, 4
Cocamide MEA	1, 2	1, 2	1, 2
PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate			1
Polyquaternium-10	0, 3	0, 3	0, 3
Aqua	25	21, 6	24
Lauramidopropyl Betaine (30%)	8	8	8
Sodium Benzoate	0, 4	0, 4	0, 4
Parfum	0, 5	0, 5	0, 5
Citric Acid	0, 2	0, 2	0, 2
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil	12	12	12
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil (grape)	2	2	2
Sodium Hydroxide (1 0%)		0, 4
Acrylates Copolymer (30%)		3

Turbidity [NTU]	＞4000	＞4000	2, 6
Foam [mm]	81	92	142
Viscosity [mpa·s] 1 day	1765 ^＊＊	9138 ^＊＊＊	5237 ^＊＊＊＊
Viscosity [mpa·s] 30 days	unstable ^＊	2979 ^＊＊＊	5051 ^＊＊＊＊
Viscosity [mpa·s] 90 days	Unstable	1326	5016
Viscosity [m. pa·s] 1 80 days	unstable	584	4939

^＊phase separation

^＊＊viscosity measurement: 50 RPM

^＊＊＊viscosity measurement: 12 RPM

^＊＊＊＊Viscosity measurement: 20 RPM.

Claims

A cosmetic composition for cleansing hair, comprising

- at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant,

- at least one natural oil,

- at least one solubilizer selected from ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oils, and

- at least one thickening agent selected from alkanolamides, ethoxylated fatty acids and ethoxylated fatty acid esters of polyols.
The composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the composition comprises 0.1 to 3.0 %by weight, preferably not less than 1.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one natural oil.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition comprises the auxiliary components selected from conditioning components such as cationic polymers and/or selected silicones, anti-dandruff agents, preservatives, pH adjusting compounds, and additives.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition comprises a balance amount of water, so that all the components amount to 100%by weight.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition contains water in an amount of at least 48%by weight, preferably at least 52 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one natural oil is derived from plants.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one natural oil is chosen from coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil (Prunus Amygdalus (Dulcis) ) , walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil (Persea Gratissima) , tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil (Helianthus Annuus) , tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil (Vitis vinifera) , amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil (O/ea Europaea) , wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, and jojoba oil.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one natural oil is chosen from grape seed oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil and/or olive oil.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant is chosen from alkylsulfates and/or alkylethersulfates.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the anionic surfactant is a sodium laureth sulfate.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant is contained in a total amount of 1 to 30 %by weight, preferably 5 to 25 %by weight, more preferably 10 to 20 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and referring to the active content of the anionic surfactant (s) .
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one amphoteric surfactant is chosen from alkyl-and/or alkylamidopropyl betaines.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is lauramidopropyl betaine.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one amphoteric surfactants is contained in a total amount of 0.5 to 15 %by weight, preferably 1.0 to 12.5 %by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 10 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one solubilizer is selected from ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oils, having a degree of ethoxylation ranging from 25 to 100, preferably 30 to 80, more preferably 35 to 70 and most preferably 40 to 60.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one solubilizer is chosen from PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and/or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one solubilizer is contained in a total amount of 0.5 to 35 %by weight, preferably 0.75 to 30 %by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 25 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is selected from C2-C4 mono-and/or dialkanolamides of at least one C8-C24 carboxylic acid.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is selected from ethanol and/or isopropanol amides of C8-C24 carboxylic acids.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is selected from Cocamide MEA, Cocamide Methyl MEA, Cocamide DEA, Cocamide MIPA, Lauramide MEA, Lauramide DEA, Lauramide MIPA, Palmitoylamide MEA, Palmitoylamide DEA, Stearamide MEA, and/or Stearamide DEA.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is selected from Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamide Methyl MEA.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening agent, chosen from alkanolamides, is contained in a total amount of 0.3 to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 2.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is chosen from ethoxylated fatty acids, having a degree of ethoxylation of 50 to 300, preferably 100 to 200.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is chosen from ethoxylated C12-C22 fatty acids
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is selected from PEG-150 distearate and/or PEG-150 dioleate.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening agent, chosen from ethoxylated fatty acids, is contained in a total amount of 0.3 to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 2.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is chosen from ethoxylated fatty acid esters of polyols being derived from C8-C30 fatty acids and having a degree of ethoxylation of 100 to 250, preferably 120 to 200.
The composition according to claim 27 characterized in that the ethoxylated fatty acid esters of polyols having a degree of ethoxylation of 100 to 250 are derived from C12-C22 fatty acids.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening agent, chosen from ethoxylated fatty acid esters of polyols, is selected from PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate and/or PEG-120 methylglucose trioleate.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the at least one thickening agent, chosen from ethoxylated fatty acid esters of polyols, is contained in a total amount of 0.3 to 5 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 2.5 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that additionally NaCI is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 %by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that additionally at least one cationic polymer is contained, preferably at least one cationic polymer of natural origin.
The composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the cationic polymer is Polyquaternium-10.
Use of at least one solubilizer, selected from ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oils, and at least one thickening agent, selected from alkonalamides, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of polyols, in a cosmetic composition for cleansing hair containing at least one natural oil for providing a transparent composition.
The use according to claim 34 characterized in that 0.1 to 3.0 %by weight, preferably not less than 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one natural oil is contained.
The use according to claim 34 or claim 35 characterized in that the at least one solubilizer is PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and/or PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and that Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamide Methyl MEA are contained.
Use of the composition according to any of claims 1-33 for providing care for the hair.