GB2603231A - Natural cosmetic cleanser - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic product for cleansing and conditioning keratinous fibres, in particular human hair, comprising 6-18 wt% of at least one alky(oligo)glycoside; 0.01-5 wt% at least one mono and/or diester of glycerol and a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-24 carboxylic acid ester; and 0.01-5 wt% trimethylglycine. The alkyl(oligo)glycoside may be of the formula RO-[G]x, wherein R is an alkyl radical having 6-24 carbon atoms; G is a sugar radical having 5-6 carbon atoms; and x is 1-10, particularly wherein R is C8-18 and x is 1-3. The least one alky(oligo)glycoside may be selected from caprylyl, decyl, lauryl and/or coco glycosides. The cosmetic product may further comprise at least one anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, zwitterionic surfactant, or mixtures thereof. The cosmetic product may further comprise at least one C2-6 polyol, in particular an alditol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol. The alditol may be selected from mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol, xylitol, or mixtures thereof. The cosmetic product may comprise at least one vegetable and/or mineral oil in a proportion by weight of 0.01-5 wt%. The cosmetic product may be substantially free of alkoxylated compounds.

Description

"Natural cosmetic cleanser" The invention relates to the field of cosmetics and concerns cosmetic products for the cleansing and care of keratinous fibres, in particular human hair, comprising alkyl (oligo)glycosides, glycerol partial esters and trimethylglycine.

Environmental aspects are playing an increasingly important role in the manufacture of cosmetic products. Consumers attach particular importance to the careful use of resources and low-energy production processes. However, in the overall product of cosmetic agent, increasing importance is also being attached to a high proportion of ingredients that do not pollute the environment, such as microplastics.

In the context of a more sustainable use of raw materials and energy, it remains desirable to use only those cosmetic raw materials for cosmetic products that can be obtained from renewable raw materials using as little energy as possible. However, a reduction in quantity or even a complete IS replacement of undesirable or problematic substances can only be undertaken if suitable alternatives are available which also exhibit the properties desired for the intended application. Thus, attempts have been made in recent years to eliminate alkoxylated surfactants and emulsifiers in cosmetic products for the treatment of skin and/or hair, in particular in cosmetic cleansing products.

DE 102014203267A1 disclosed cleaning preparations comprising at least 95% ingredients of natural origin.

An essential component of these cleaning preparations are anionic surfactants, preferably anionic sulfate surfactants. This ensures, among other things, the achievement of satisfactory foam quantities.

However, there is a consumer demand for natural, mild, caring cleansing agents that do not contain sulphate surfactants, but still have an optimal balance between excellent foaming and care properties.

The task underlying the invention is to provide a cosmetic cleansing agent which is produced in a resource-and environmentally-friendly manner and which is balanced in terms of good foaming properties and excellent hair and/or scalp care properties.

It should preferably be possible to dispense with the use of anionic sulfate surfactants in the preparation of such cosmetic cleansing agents.

The tasks underlying the invention are solved by the subject matter of claim 1.

The cosmetic products according to the invention contain, as a first essential ingredient, higher amounts of at least one alkyl (oligo)glycoside as a washing-active surfactant.

Alkyl(oligo)glycosides are extremely mild, skin-compatible nonionic surfactants that are biodegradable and can be combined with other surfactants. It was found that it is not necessary to use sulfate surfactants and/or other anionic surfactants as main surfactants for providing compositions according to the invention having good foaming properties.

Suitable alkyl(oligo)glycosides can be used as the sole surfactant or as the main surfactant in combination with -preferably sulfate-and alkoxy group-free -further surfactants.

Suitable alkyl (oligo)glycosides within the meaning of the present invention are understood to be compounds of the general formula RO-[G]x, in which R is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x is a number between 1 and 10. They can be obtained by relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

The alkyl and alkenyl (oligo)glycosides may be derived from aldoses and ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The preferred alkyl and alkenyl (oligo)glycosides are thus IS alkyl and alkenyl (oligo)glucosides.

The index number x in the general formula RO-[G]x indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of monoglycosides and oligoglycosides, and represents a number between 1 and 10. While x must always be an integer in the individual molecule and, above all, can assume the values x = 1 to 6, the value x for a particular alkyl (oligo)glycoside is an analytically determined mathematical quantity that is usually a fractional number. Preferred alkyl and alkenyl (oligo)glycosides have an average degree of oligomerization x of 1.1 to 3.

From an application perspective, alkyl and alkenyl (oligo)glycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7, and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4, are preferred.

The alkyl and alkenyl radical R may be derived from primary alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, such as caprylic alcohol, capryl alcohol, caprin alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof Preferred alkyl (oligo)glucosides are those in which R is C8-C18 alkyl and have a DP of from 1 to 3.

Particularly preferred are the alkyl oligoglucosides known under the INCI designations caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and/or coco glucoside.

In a first preferred version, cosmetic products according to the invention comprise at least one alkyl (oligo)glycoside a) of the formula RO-[G]x, in which R is an alkyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x (degree of oligomerization) is a number from 1 to 10, preferably alkyl (oligo)glucosides having a C8-C18 alkyl radical and a degree of oligomerization from 1 to 3, in particular caprylyl/capryl glucosides, decyl glucosides, lauryl glucosides and/or coco glucosides.

Alkyl(oligo)glycosides are used in the cosmetic products according to the invention in an amount of from 6% to 18% by weight (the amounts being based on the total weight of the cosmetic products). Preferred amounts are from 7% to 17% by weight, more preferably from 7.5 to 16% by weight, particularly preferably from 8 to 15% by weight and especially preferably from 8.5% to 14% by weight.

Particularly preferred are compositions comprising caprylyl/capryl glucosides, decyl glucosides, lauryl glucosides and/or coco glucosides in the amounts mentioned above.

For optimal product properties, it may be advantageous for some versions of the compositions according to the invention (such as shampoos) if alkyl(oligo)glycosides a) are used as the main surfactant in the mixture with anionic (dl)) and/or amphoteric (and/or zwitterionic) surfactants (d2)).

Carboxylate surfactants are the preferred anionic surfactants dl) as they are available from natural IS sources, have a high foaming power, are well tolerated by the skin and support the stable incorporation of water-insoluble skin care substances. Moreover, carboxylate surfactants may benefit the cleaning ability and the more thorough and faster rinsing ability of the compositions according to the invention.

Carboxylate surfactants as used in the present invention preferably include - aclglycinates acylsarcosinates, acyl lactylates, - acylglutamates, acylaspartates acyltaurates, acyl isethionates, - sulfosuccinates and the corresponding salified forms of the abovementioned surfactants, the acyl groups comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferred are anionic carboxylate surfactants consisting of the groups mentioned above, as well as their corresponding salified forms, in which the acyl groups comprise 10 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Examples of particularly suitable anionic carboxylate surfactants are the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and/or alkanolamine salts of cocoyl glycinate, cocoyl sarcosinate, lauroyl sarcosinate, myristoyl sarcosinate, oleyl sarcosinate, lauroyl lactylate, stearoyl lactylate, cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl glutamate, stearoyl glutamate, lauroyl aspartate, palmitoyl aspartate, (C1-C4 alkyl) cocoyl taurate, (C1-C4 alkyl) lauroyl taurate, (C1-C4 alkyl) oleyl taurate, (C1-C4 alkyl) cocoyl isethionate, (C1-C4 alkyl) lauroyl isethionate, lauryl sulfosuccinate, lauryl sulfoacetate and/or any mixtures thereof.

Acylglutamates are particularly preferred.

Anionic surfactants -preferably carboxylate surfactants -can preferably be used in the products according to the invention in an amount of from 0 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 6% by weight and especially preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic products.

In another preferred version, the products according to the invention comprise at least one anionic carboxylate surfactant dl) selected from acyl glycinates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, acyl partates, acyl taurates, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinates, and the corresponding salified forms, wherein the acyl groups comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

I5 In the case where the cosmetic products according to the invention contain anionic surfactants d1) (for example when they are packaged as shampoo), it is advantageous that they are present in a certain weight ratio to the alkyl (oligo)glycosides.

Preferably they are used in admixture with alkyl (oligo)glycoside(s), particularly preferably in a ratio by weight of alkyl (oligo)glycoside(s) a) to the sum of all anionic surfactants dl) of 5: 1 to 1: 1.

In a further preferred version, products according to the invention additionally comprise at least one anionic surfactant dl), wherein the weight ratio of alkyl (oligo)glycoside(s) a) to the sum of all anionic surfactants d1) is 5: 1 to 1: 1, more preferably 4: 1 to 1.5: 1 and in particular 3.5: 1 to 2: As amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant(s) d2) one or more surfactants from the following groups are suitable for use in the products according to the invention: Alkyl betaines, alkylamidoalkyl betaines, alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphodiacetates, alkylamphopropionates, alkylamphodipropionates, alkylsultaines, alkylhydroxysultaines, alkylamine oxides, alkylamphoglycmates, alkylimmodiacetates, alkylimmodipropionates, alkylamphopropylsulfonates, alkylamphocarboxyglycinates and alkylamphocarboxypropionates.

Suitable alkyl betaines and/or alkylamidopropyl betaines preferably comprise C4-C24, more preferably C6-C18, particularly preferably C8-C14 alkyl chains, which may be linear or branched, linear being preferred. Particularly preferred alkyl betaines or alkyl amidopropyl betaines are selected from the group consisting of Lauryl Betaine, Coco-Betaine, Behenyl Betaine, Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine, Cetyl Betaine, Cocamidoethyl Betaine, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Coco/Oleamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl Betaine, Dimer Dilinoleamidopropyl Dibetaine, Hydrogenated Tallow Betaine, Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine, lsostearamidopropyl Betaine, Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Lauryl Betaine, Myristyl Betaine, Oleamidopropyl Betaine, Oleyl Betaine, Palmitamidopropyl Betaine, Ricinoleamidopropyl Betaine, Stearamidopropyl Betaine, Stearyl Betaine, Tallowamidopropyl Betaine, Tallow Betaine, Tallow Dihydroxyethyl Betaine, Undecylenamidopropyl Betaine, Sunfloweramidopropyl Betaine, Cetyl Betaine, Lauryl Betaine. Cocamidopropyl betaine is particularly preferred.

Particularly suitable alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphodiacetates, alkylamphopropionates or alkylamphodipropionates are selected from the group consisting of Cocobetainamido Amphopropionate, DEA-Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Caproamphodiacetate, Disodium Caproamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium lsostearoamphodiacetate, Disodium lsostearoamphodipropionate, Disodium Laureth-5 Carboxyamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Oleoamphodipropionate, Disodium PPG-2-lsodeceth-7 Carboxyamphodiacetate, Disodium Stearoamphodiacetate, Disodium Tallowamphodiacetate, Sodium Caproamphopropionate, Sodium Capryloamphoacetate, Sodium Capryloamphopropionate, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Sodium Cocoamphopropionate, Sodium lsostearoamphoacetate, Sodium IS lsostearoamphopropionate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Lauroamphopropionate, Sodium Myristoamphoacetate, Sodium Oleoamphoacetate, Sodium Oleoamphopropionate, Sodium Stearoamphoacetate, Sodium Stearoamphopropionate, Sodium Tallamphopropionate, Sodium Tallowamphoacetate, Sodium Undecylenoamphoacetate and Sodium Undecylenoamphopropionate.

Sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocooamphodiacetate are particularly preferred.

Particularly suitable alkylsultaines or alkylhydroxysultaines are selected from the group consisting of Capryl Sultaine, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Coco-Hydroxysultaine, Coco-Sultaine, Erucamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Lauramidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Lauryl Hydroxysultaine, Lauryl Sultaine, Myristamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Oleamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Tallowamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine.

Particularly suitable alkylamine oxides are selected from the group consisting of Behenamine Oxide, Cocamidopropylamine Oxide, Cocamine Oxide, Decylamine Oxide, Decyltetradecylamine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl C8-10 Alkoxypropylamine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl C9-11 Alkoxypropylamine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl C12-15 Alkoxypropylamine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl Cocamine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl Lauramine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl Stearamine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine Oxide, Hydrogenated Tallowamine Oxide, lsostearamidopropylamine Oxide, Lauramidopropylamine Oxide, Lauramine Oxide, Myristamidopropylamine Oxide, Myristamine Oxide, Palmitamidopropylamine Oxide, Palmitamine Oxide, PEG-3 Lauramine Oxide, Stearamidopropylamine Oxide, Stearamine Oxide, Tallowamidopropylamine Oxide, Tallowamine Oxide, Undecylenamidopropylamine Oxide.

Particularly suitable alkylamphoglycinates are selected from the group consisting of Caproamphoglycinate, Capryloamphoglycinate, Cocoamphoglycinate, lsostearoamphoglycinate, Lauroamphoglycinate, Myristoamphoglycinate, Oleoamphoglycinate, Stearoamphoglycinate, Tallowamphoglycinate, Undecylenoamphoglycinate Particularly suitable alkyliminodiacetates or alkyliminodipropionates are selected from the group consisting of Disodium Cocaminopropyl lminodiacetate, Disodium Hydroxyethyliminodiacetate, Disodium Lauriminodiacetate, Disodium Lauriminodipropionate, Disodium Steariminodipropionate, Disodium Tallowiminodipropionate, Sodium C12-15 Alkoxypropyl lminodipropionate, Sodium Cocoiminodiacetate, Sodium Lauriminodipropionate.

Particularly suitable alkylamphopropylsulfonates are selected from Sodium Cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Oleoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Stearoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, Disodium Lauriminobishydroxypropylsulfonate, Disodium Cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Caproamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Capryloamphohydroxypropylsulfonate.

Amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants d2) -preferably alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphodiacetates, alkylamphopropionates, alkylamphodipropionates -may be used in the products according to the invention, preferably in an IS amount of from 0 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 6% by weight and especially preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic products.

In another preferred version, the products according to the invention comprise at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant selected from alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphodiacetates, alkylamphopropionates, alkylamphodipropionates, and the corresponding salified forms, and wherein the alkyl groups comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

In the case where the cosmetic products according to the invention contain amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants d2) (for example when they are packaged as a shampoo), it is advantageous for them to be present in a specific weight ratio to the alkyl (oligo)glycosides. Preferably they are used in admixture with alkyl (oligo)glycoside(s), particularly preferably in a ratio by weight of alkyl (oligo)glycoside(s) a) to the sum of all anionic surfactants dl) of 5: 1 to 1: 1.

In a further preferred version, products according to the invention additionally comprise at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant d2), wherein the weight ratio of alkyl (oligo)glycoside(s) a) to the sum of all amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants d2) 5 is: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 4: 1 to 1.5: 1 and in particular 3.5: 1 to 2: 1.

A further preferred version of the present invention is characterized in that the cosmetic products comprise, in addition to alkyl (oligo)glycosides a), at least one anionic surfactant dl) -preferably an anionic carboxylate surfactant -and at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant d2) -preferably from the group consisting of alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkylamphoacetates and/or alkylamphodiacetates Within this version, it is advantageous if the total surfactant content (based on the total weight of the products) does not exceed 25% by weight. Particularly preferred are total surfactant contents of 10 to 25% by weight, extremely preferred 11 to 22% by weight and especially 11 to 20% by weight.

As a second essential ingredient, cosmetic products according to the invention contain compositions comprising at least one mono-and/or diester of glycerol and a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C8-C24 carboxylic acid in a 0.01% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic products.

Glycerol esters suitable according to the invention are used in the cosmetic products to enhance hair care due to its refatting effect. In addition, they can be combined very well with alkyl(oligo)glycosides.

Preferred are mono-and/or diesters which dissolve very well in the products according to the invention and/or can be emulsified therein without the addition of polymeric and/or alkoxylated nonionic auxiliaries.

Particularly suitable are, for example, mono-and/or diesters of glycerol and caprylic acid, capric acid, lauryl acid, coco acids, palmitic acid, stearic acid, petroselic acid, oleic acid, gadoleic acid, gondoic acid, cetoleic acid, erucic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid, since they are accessible from natural (vegetable) sources and are readily biodegradable.

More preferred are compounds known under the INCI designations glyceryl laurates, glycerin palmitates, glyceryl stearates and/or glyceryl oleates, particularly preferred are glyceryl laurates and/or glyceryl oleates and especially preferred is glyceryl oleates.

The glycerol esters may be added to the products of the invention individually or as a mixture, in pure form or (to facilitate incorporation) as a mixture with water and surfactants. Corresponding products are known and available, for example under the names Antil® HS 60, Emulgade® EQ or Lamesoft® P065.

Preferably, cosmetic products according to the invention contain -based on their total weight -0.05 to 4.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.15 to 3.5% by weight and especially 0.2 to 3% by weight of glycerol esters b).

In a preferred version, products according to the invention contain at least one glycerol ester known under the INCI designation glyceryl oleate and/or glyceryl laurate. Within this version, products according to the invention are particularly preferred comprising glyceryl oleates in the amounts previously mentioned.

Trimethylglycine is used in the compositions according to the invention as the third essential component in a proportion of 0.01% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the compositions.

Trimethylglycine in combination with alkyl(oligo)glycosides a) -and possibly other surfactants dl) and/or d2)-has a foam-stabilizing and irritation-reducing effect and it permits the reduction of surfactant quantities while maintaining good foam quantities and foam properties.

In addition, trimethylglycine is known as a moisturizing active ingredient in cosmetic products and, in the products according to the invention, also serves as a hair conditioning component, in particular, as an active ingredient that strengthens the hair fibers.

Preferably, cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain trimethylglycine in a proportion of 0.05% to 4.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.15% to 3.5% by weight and especially 0.2% to 3% by weight of the total weight of the compositions.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are preferred in an aqueous base. This is preferably understood to mean a water content of at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least IS 65% by weight and particularly preferably at least 70% by weight (based on the total weight of the cosmetic products) Further ingredients which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in the aqueous phase may be added to the cosmetic products according to the invention without the need to use alkoxylated compounds or polymeric stabilizing agents for their solubilization and/or stabilization.

In a preferred version, the cosmetic products according to the invention are substantially free of alkoxylated compounds.

As stated above, the products according to the invention exhibit excellent foaming properties without the need to add anionic sulfate surfactants to them.

In another preferred version, the cosmetic products according to the invention are substantially free of anionic sulfate surfactants.

For the purposes of the present invention, "substantially free" is understood to mean a maximum content of alkoxylated compounds and/or of sulfate surfactants of 0.01% by weight (based on the total weight of the cosmetic products), which may at most be present as an impurity or by-product in commercial products used.

It is especially preferred that the compositions according to the invention do not contain any alkoxylated compounds and/or sulfate surfactants.

The cosmetic products according to the invention may comprise further active ingredients which support or enhance their cleansing and/or conditioning properties.

Preferred optional active ingredients may be selected, for example, from the group of the - active ingredients which improve the moisture of the skin or scalp and/or oils and/or butters, preferably natural (vegetable) and/or mineral oils and/or vegetable butters, and/or - plant extracts.

Furthermore, for some versions, a content of active ingredients selected from the group consisting of the cationic polymers, preferably cationic polymers of natural origin and/or - vitamins and/or protein hydrolysates and/or antidandruff agents may be an advantage.

For the purposes of the present invention, suitable active ingredients which improve skin or scalp IS moisture and/or hair fiber structure are preferably understood to be polyols (i.e., physiologically compatible polyalcohols or polyhydroxyl compounds) having 2 to 20 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.

Typical examples are straight-chain, branched or cyclic alkanols with 2 to 10, preferably with 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 1,2-propanediol 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, glycols such as polyethylene glycols and/or polypropylene glycols as well as sugar alcohols (alditols), sugars or sugar derivatives such as mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol, xylitol, fructose, glucose, lactose, galactose and/or sucrose.

Particularly preferred are C2-C6 polyols, preferably alditols such as mannitol, isomalfitol, lactitol, sorbitol and/or xylitol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, especially preferred is 1.2-propylene glycol, 1.3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, especially preferred is glycerol.

Active ingredient(s) improving skin or scalp moisture and/or hair fiber structure -preferably glycerol -may be used in the products according to the invention, preferably in a weight proportion of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic products.

In a further preferred version, cosmetic products according to the invention comprise at least one C2-C6 polyol, preferably alditols such as mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol and/or xylitol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, particularly preferably 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, particularly preferably glycerol, in a weight proportion of 0.01% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic product.

For the purposes of the present invention, "natural" oils are preferably understood to mean vegetable oils, more preferably cold-pressed vegetable oils "Cold pressed oil" is defined as an oil obtained by cold pressing and/or cold extraction of the respective plant (or part of the plant) at a temperature of 40°C or less, preferably 35°C or less and more preferably 30°C or less.

The oils that can be obtained by cold pressing or cold extraction and are suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention are preferably triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides such as amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, bamboo oil, baobab oil, canola oil, safflower oil, pomegranate seed oil, rosehip seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, red currant oil, black currant oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, macadamia nut oil, mallow oil, (sweet) almond oil, mango seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, Brazil nut oil, passion fruit oil, palm kernel oil, peach kernel oil, Rambutan oil, rice bran oil, castor oil, safflower oil, sasanqua oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tea tree oil, grape seed oil, tsubaki oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil and/or meadowfoam oil.

Suitable mineral oils are understood to be liquid or solid hydrocarbons such as petrolatum, ceresin, IS ozokerite, paraffins and/or isoparaffins.

Preferred are paraffins and/or isoparaffins which are liquid at room temperature (20°C).

The -preferably cold-pressed or cold-extracted -vegetable and/or mineral oil(s) is (are) present in the cosmetic products according to the invention preferably in dispersed form, wherein the droplet size of the dispersed oil is from 0.1 to 500 nm, preferably from 0.5 to 300 nm.

The cosmetic products according to the invention contain vegetable and/or mineral oils preferably in a weight proportion of 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.025% to 3% by weight and in particular 0.05% to 1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic products.

In a preferred version, compositions according to the invention contain at least one vegetable and/or mineral oil in a weight proportion of 0.01% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Suitable plant butters are preferably understood to be shea butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, apricot kernel butter, mafura butter, bacuri butter, tucuma butter, ucuuba butter and/or cupuacu butter. Shea butter is particularly preferred.

Plant butters may preferably be used in the cosmetic products according to the invention in a weight proportion of 0.01% to 1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic products. Weight proportions of 0.025% to 0.75% by weight are more preferred, and 0.05% to 0.5% by weight is particularly preferred.

Suitable plant extracts are mainly the extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossom, almond, Aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, date palm, cinnamon tree, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quender, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, knapweed, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root, and ayurvedic plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Safivus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelt, corn, the different varieties of millet (panicle millet, Finger millet, foxtail millet as examples), sugarcane, ryegrass, meadow foxtail, smooth oats, bunchgrass meadow fescue, pipegrass, bamboo, cotton grass, lampbush grasses, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called flame grass or cogon grass), buffalo grass, silt grasses, dogtooth grasses, love grasses, Cymbopogon (lemon grass), Oryzeae (rice), Zizania (wild rice), Beach oats, perennial oats, honey grasses, quaking grasses, meadow grasses, couch grasses, and Echinacea, especially Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (Mc Gregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.). Moench and I5 Echinacea pallida, all kinds of algae, coral moss and seaweed (such as Macrocystis pyrifera extract), all kinds of wine as well as pericarp of Lychee chinensis.

Suitable extracts may be obtained from the fruits, seeds, flowers, roots, leaves and/or barks of the above plants or from the whole plants (seaweeds, kelp).

According to the invention, the plant extracts can be used both in pure and diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain approx. 2% -80 % by weight of active substance and as solvent the extracting agent or extracting agent mixture used in their extraction. Suitable extraction agents are usually water and/or alcohols.

The plant extract(s) may preferably be used in the cosmetic products according to the invention in total amounts of from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0025% to 0.75% by weight and more preferably from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, the amounts being based on the weight of the cosmetic products.

Suitable cationic polymers of natural origin within the meaning of the present invention include, for example: quaternised cellulose derivatives, as referred to under the names Celquat® and Polymer JR® are available on the market, cationic starch derivatives, such as those commercially available under the name Mirustyle®, - hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, such as the cationic polymers sold under the trade name SoftCat®, - cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat® 50, cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products marketed under the trade names Cosmedia®Guar N-Hance® and Jaguar' cationic cassia and/or inulin derivatives, such as those listed under the INCI names Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Hydroxypropyltrimonium lnulin known cationic polymers.

Preferred are quaternized cellulose polymers, hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose derivatives and/or cationic guar derivatives.

Particularly preferred are the cationic polymers known under the INCI designations guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-67 and/or hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed corn starch; guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is particularly preferred.

The cosmetic products according to the invention contain cationic polymers -preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride -preferably in a weight proportion of 0% to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.01% to 1.5% by weight and in particular 0.05% to 1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic products.

Suitable "vitamins" are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives: IS * Vitamin A: the group of substances known as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Al) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The 3-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Vitamin A components include vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate.

* Vitamin B: the vitamin B group or vitamin B complex includes Vitamin B1 (thiamine) "fri Vitamin B2 (riboflavin) Vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are frequently listed under this designation.

"fri Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group, panthenol is preferred.

Applicable derivatives of panthenol are especially the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives include panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.

t Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

* Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

* Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol).

* Vitamin F: the term "vitamin F" usually refers to essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, Mole= acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H: Vitamin H is the compound (3aS,45, 6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-dkimidazole- 4-valeric acid, for which the trivial name biotin has since become established.

Especially preferred are vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from the groups A, B, E and H. Nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and/or panthenol are particularly preferred; nicotinamide and/or panthenol are especially preferred.

The proportion by weight of the vitamin(s), vitamin derivative(s) and/or vitamin precursor(s) in the total weight of the cosmetic products according to the invention is preferably 0.005 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.006 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.008 to 1% by weight and more preferably 0.01 to 0.50% by weight.

Suitable protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that can be obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatic catalyzed degradation of proteins.

Protein hydrolysates of vegetable, animal and/or marine origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates include elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are marketed under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), GelitaSol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda). Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin are preferred, e.g. soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available under the trademarks Gluadin0 (Cognis), DiaMin0 (Diamalt), Lexein® (lnolex) and Crotein® (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used, whereby the underlying protein hydrolysate can be derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnologically produced protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolysates underlying the cationic derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by a chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by an enzymatic hydrolysis and/or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolysate with a molecular weight distribution ranging from about 100 Daltons to several thousand Daltons. Preferred are those cationic protein hydrolysates whose underlying protein fraction has a molecular weight of 100 to 25000 Daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 Daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates are quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof Quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N,Ndimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates can also be further derivatised. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are the products known under the INCI designations and commercially available: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCI, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypftrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltdmonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrmonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Is Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

The weight proportion of the protein hydrolysate(s) in the total weight of the cosmetic products is preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.025% to 3% by weight and in particular 0.05% to 2% by weight.

For purposes of the present invention, suitable anti-dandruff agents include piroctone olamines, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazoles, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts, arnica extracts and/or propanediol caprylates.

Preferred for use in the cosmetic products according to the invention are natural anti-dandruff active ingredients such as the previously mentioned plant extracts and/or anti-dandruff active ingredients accessible from natural sources, such as propanediol caprylates.

The weight proportion of anti-dandruff agents in the total weight of the cosmetic products according to the invention is preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.025% to 4% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05% to 3% by weight.

According to another preferred version of the present invention, the weight proportion, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of ingredients of the cosmetic composition that are essentially of natural origin is 90% by weight or more, particularly preferably 92.5% by weight and especially 95% by weight or more. An ingredient that complies with ISO 16128 or the COSMOS standard shall be considered to be of "essentially natural origin".

Further active ingredients, auxiliary agents and additives which may preferably be present in the cosmetic products according to the invention are, for example: perfumes, UV filters, cyclodextrins, (natural) dyes to color the product, Active ingredients such as bisabolol and/or allantoin, Complexing agents like EDTA, NIA, Nalaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, ceramide. Ceramides are N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogues of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides), - antioxidants, 11) preservatives, such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid, - pH adjusting agents such as citric acid and/or lactic acid, - viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCI).

A second object of the invention is the use of a cosmetic product according to the invention for IS cleaning and caring for human hair, in particular as a shampoo.

With regard to further preferred versions of the use according to the invention, what has been said with regard to the products according to the invention applies The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it to these.

Examples

The following invention-based cosmetic products have been manufactured (the quantities given are based on weight %): 1 2 3 4 Alkyl (oligo)glycoside 6-18 Coco Glucoside, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside and/or Lauryl Glucoside 7.5 -16 8-15 8.5 -14 Glycerol mono-and/or di-C8-C24 carboxylic acid esters 0.01 -5 Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl 0.01 -5 Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate and/or Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl oleates 0.1 -4 0.1 -4 Trimethylglycine 0.01 -5 0.1 -4 0.2 -3 0.2 -3 anionic surfactant 0 -8 1 -6 Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate 1.5 -5 amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant 0 -8 1 -6 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.5 -5 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 1.5 -5 Glycerine 0.01 -10 0.05 -7.5 0.1 -5 cationic polymer 0 -2 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.01 -1 natural, cold-pressed oil 0.01 -5 0.05 -1 Apricot kernel oil 0.05 -1 0.05 -1 Perfume, preservative, ph-activator q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Claims (2)

1. Patent claims: 1 Cosmetic product for the cleansing and care of keratinous fibres, in particular human hair, comprising, relative to the total weight of the product, a) 6% to 18% by weight of at least one alkyl (oligo)glycoside, b) 0.01% to 5% by weight of at least one mono-and/or diester of glycerol and a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C24 carboxylic acid, and c) 0.01% to 5% by weight of trimethylglycine.
2. 2. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, comprising alkyl(oligo)glycosides a) of the formula RO-[G]x, wherein R is an alkyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms! IS G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and x (degree of oligomerization) is a number from 1 to 10, 3 Cosmetic product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one alkyl(oligo)glycosides a) comprises a C8-C18 alkyl radical and a degree of oligomerization of 1 to 3, 4 Cosmetic product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one alkyl(oligo)glycosides a) comprises caprylyl/capryl glucosides, decyl glucosides, lauryl glucosides and/or coco glucosides.Cosmetic product according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one glycerol ester known by the INCI name glyceryl oleates and/or glyceryl laurates.6 Cosmetic product according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one anionic surfactant (di)) and/or at least one amphotenc surfactant and/or at least one zwitterionic surfactant (d2)).7 The cosmetic product according to claim 6, comprising at least one anionic carboxylate surfactant d1) chosen from acyl glycinates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, acyl partates, acyl taurates, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinates and the corresponding salified forms, the acyl groups comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.8 Cosmetic product according to claim 6, comprising at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant d2) chosen from alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphodiacetates, alkylamphopropionates, alkylamphodipropionates and the corresponding salified forms, and in which the alkyl groups comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.9 The cosmetic product according to any one of claims 6 or 7, wherein the weight ratio of the alkyl (oligo)glycoside a) to the sum of all anionic surfactants d1) 5 is: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 4: 1 to 1.5: 1 and in particular 3.5 1 to 2: 1.10. The cosmetic product according to any one of claims 6 or 8, wherein the weight ratio of the alkyl (oligo)glycoside a) to the sum of all amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants d2) 5 is 1 to 1: 1, preferably 4: 1 to 1.5: 1 and in particular 3.5: 1 to 2: 1.11. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one C2-C6 polyol.lc 12 Cosmetic product according to claim 11, wherein the at least one C2-C6 polyol comprises at least one of an alditol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol.13. Cosmetic product according to claim 12, wherein the at least one alditol comprises mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol and/or xylitol.14. Cosmetic product according to claims 11 or 12, wherein the at least one C2-C6 polyol comprises glycerol.15. Cosmetic product according to any one of claims 11-14, wherein the at least one C2-C6 polyol is present in a weight proportion of 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the cosmetic product.16. Cosmetic product according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one vegetable and/or mineral oil in a proportion by weight ranging from 0.01% to 5% of the total weight of the product.17. Cosmetic product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic product is substantially free of anionic sulfate surfactants.18. Cosmetic product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic product is substantially free of alkoxylated compounds.19. Use of a cosmetic product according to any one of claims 1 to 18 for cleaning or caring for human hair, in particular as a shampoo.