FR3113597A1 - Natural cosmetic cleansing agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for cleaning and caring for keratin fibres, in particular human hair, which comprises specific amounts of an alkyl (oligo)glycoside, a glycerol monoester and/or a C8 to C24 carboxylic acid and trimethylglycine. The present invention also relates to the use of cosmetic compositions for cleaning or caring for human hair, in particular the use in the form of shampoo.

Description

Natural cosmetic cleansing agent

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics and relates to cosmetic compositions for cleaning and caring for keratin fibres, in particular human hair, the cosmetic compositions comprising alkyl(oligo)glycosides, partial esters of glycerol and trimethylglycine .

Environmental aspects play an increasing role in the manufacture of cosmetic products. Consumers attach particular importance to the careful use of resources and energy-efficient manufacturing processes. However, in the overall composition of cosmetic products, increasing attention is also paid to a high proportion of ingredients that do not pollute the environment, such as microplastics.

In the context of a more sustainable use of raw materials and energy, it remains desirable to use in cosmetic products only cosmetic raw materials available from renewable raw materials using as little energy as possible. However, the reduction in quantities or even the complete substitution of undesirable or problematic substances can only be carried out if there are suitable alternatives which also have the desired properties for the intended application.

Thus, attempts have been made in recent years to eliminate alkoxylated surfactants and emulsifiers in cosmetic agents intended for the treatment of the skin and/or the hair, in particular in cosmetic cleansing agents.

DE 102014203267A1 discloses cleaning preparations which comprise at least 95% ingredients of natural origin.

Anionic surfactants, preferably sulfated anionic surfactants, are an essential constituent of these cleaning preparations. Among other things, they make it possible to obtain satisfactory amounts of foam.

However, consumers still want natural, gentle, nourishing cleansing compositions that do not contain sulphated surfactants while exhibiting an optimal balance between excellent foaming and caring powers.

The object of the invention is to provide a cosmetic cleansing agent which is prepared in a resource-saving and environmentally friendly manner and which is balanced in terms of good foaming properties and excellent hair and/or leather care power. hairy.

If possible, the use of sulfated anionic surfactants should preferably be avoided in the preparation of these cosmetic cleansing agents.

The objectives of the invention have been achieved by cosmetic compositions for cleaning and caring for keratin fibres, in particular human hair, containing (relative to the total weight of the composition)

a) 6 to 18% by weight of at least one alkyl(oligo)glycoside,

b) 0.01 to 5% by weight of at least one mono- and / or diester of glycerol and a saturated or unsaturated C ₈ to C ₂₄ carboxylic acid, straight or branched chain,

c) 0.01 to 5% by weight of trimethylglycine.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain, as first essential constituent, significant amounts of at least one alkyl(oligo)glycoside as detergent surfactant.

Alkyl(oligo)glycosides are extremely mild and skin-friendly non-ionic surfactants which are biodegradable and can be combined with other surfactants. It has been discovered that it is not necessary to use sulphated surfactants and/or other anionic surfactants as main surfactants to prepare compositions according to the invention having good foam properties.

Suitable APGs can be used as sole surfactants or as the main surfactant in combination with other surfactants, preferably free of sulphate and alkoxy groups.

By suitable alkyl(oligo)glycosides for the purposes of the present invention, is meant compounds of general formula RO-[G]x, in which R represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x represents numbers between 1 and 10. They can be obtained by relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

The alkyl(oligo)glycosides or alkenyl(oligo)glycosides can be derived from aldoses and ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. Preferred alkyl(oligo)glycosides and alkenyl(oligo)glycosides are therefore alkyl(oligo)glucosides and alkenyl(oligo)glucosides.

The subscript x in the general formula RO-[G] _x indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and represents a number between 1 and 10. Then that x in the individual molecule must always be an integer and can in particular take the values x = 1 to 6, the value x for a certain alkyl(oligo)glycoside is an arithmetic parameter determined analytically, which generally represents a fractional number. Preference is given to alkyl(oligo)glycosides and alkenyl(oligo)glycosides having an average degree of oligomerization x of 1.1 to 3.

From the point of view of application, the alkyl(oligo)glycosides and alkenyl(oligo)glycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and is in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred.

The alkyl and alkenyl radicals R can be derived from primary alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms such as caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, alcohol cetyl alcohol, palmoyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, alcohol erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, as well as their industrial mixtures.

The preferred alkyl(oligo)glucosides are those in which R represents C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl radicals and which have a DP of 1 to 3.

The alkyloligoglucosides known under the INCI names Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and/or Coco Glucoside are particularly preferred.

In a first preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one alkyl(oligo)glycoside of formula RO-[G] _X , in which R represents an alkyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x (degree of oligomerization) represents a number from 1 to 10, preferably alkyl(oligo)glucosides with a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical and a degree of oligomerization from 1 to 3, in particular Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and/or Coco Glucoside.

The alkyl(oligo)glycosides are used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in an amount of 6 to 18% by weight (amounts indicated relating to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions).

The amounts used are preferably 7 to 17% by weight, more preferably 7.5 to 16% by weight, particularly preferably 8 to 15% by weight and most preferably 8.5 to 14% by weight.

Particularly preferred are compositions which contain Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and/or Coco Glucoside in the aforementioned amounts.

For optimum product properties, it may be advantageous for certain embodiments of the compositions according to the invention (such as shampoos) that the alkyl(oligo)glycosides a) be used as main surfactant in the mixture with anionic surfactants ( d1)) and/or amphoteric (and/or zwitterionic) (d2)).

As anionic surfactants d1), carboxylate surfactants are preferably considered, since they are available from natural sources, they have a high foaming power, they are well tolerated by the skin and they promote the stable incorporation of substances of care insoluble in water. In addition, the carboxylate surfactants can promote the cleaning power and the more thorough and rapid rinsing of the compositions according to the invention.

The term “carboxylate surfactants” is preferably understood within the meaning of the present invention.

- acylglycinates,

- acylsarcosinates,

- acyllactylates

- acylglutamates,

- acylaspartates,

- acyltaurates,

- acylisethionates,

- sulfosuccinates and

- the corresponding salt forms of the above-mentioned surfactants, the acyl groups comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferred are anionic carboxylate surfactants consisting of the aforementioned groups, as well as their corresponding salt forms, in which the acyl groups comprise 10 to 24 carbon atoms and, in particular, 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made, as examples of particularly suitable anionic carboxylate surfactants, of the alkaline, alkaline-earth and/or alkanolamine salts of cocoyl glycinate, cocoyl sarcosinate, lauroyl sarcosinate, myristoyl sarcosinate, oleyl sarcosinate, lauroyl lactylate, stearoyl lactylate, cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl glutamate, stearoyl glutamate, lauroyl aspartate, palmitoyl aspartate, cocoyl (C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl) taurate , (C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl) lauroyl taurate, (C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl) oleyl taurate, (C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl) cocoyl isethionate, (C ₁ -C lauroyl ₄ -alkyl) isethionate, lauryl sulfosuccinate, lauryl sulfoacetate and/or any mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred are the acylglutamates.

Anionic surfactants, preferably carboxylate surfactants, can be used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one anionic carboxylate surfactant d1), chosen from acylglycinates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, acylaspartates, acyltaurates, acylisethionates, sulfosuccinates and their salt forms corresponding, the acyl groups comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

In the case where the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain anionic surfactants d1) (for example when they are packaged in the form of a shampoo), it is advantageous for these surfactants to be present in a certain weight ratio with respect to the alkyl (oligo )glycosides.

They are preferably used as a mixture with one or more alkyl(oligo)glycosides, particularly preferably in a weight ratio between the alkyl(oligo)glycosides a) and the sum of all the anionic surfactants d1) of 5:1 at 1:1.

In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention additionally contain at least one anionic surfactant d1), the weight ratio between the alkyl(oligo)glycosides a) and the sum of all the anionic surfactants d1) being from 5:1 to 1:1, more preferably from 4:1 to 1.5:1 and especially from 3.5:1 to 2:1.

As amphoteric surfactant(s) and/or zwitterionic(s) d2), one or more surfactants from the following groups can be envisaged for use in the compositions according to the invention: alkylbetaine, alkylamidoalkylbetaine, alkylamphoacetate, alkylamphodiacetate, alkylamphopropionate, alkylamphodipropionate, alkylsultaine, alkylhydroxysultaine, alkylamine oxide, alkylamphoglycinate, alkyliminodiacetate, alkyliminodipropionate, alkylamphopropylsulfonate, alkylamphocarboxyglycinate and alkylamphocarboxypropionate.

Suitable alkyl betaines and/or alkylamidopropyl betaines preferably comprise C ₄ -C ₂₄ , more preferably C ₆ -C ₁₈ , particularly preferably C ₈ -C ₁₄ alkyl chains, which may be linear or branched, linear chains being preferred. The particularly preferred alkylbetaines or alkylamidopropyl betaines are chosen from the group comprising lauryl betaine, coco-betaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropryl betaine, cetyl betaine, cocamidoethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, coco/oleamidopropyl betaine, decyl betaine, dilinoleamidopropyl betaine dimer, hydrogenated tallow betaine, hydroxylauryl/hydroxymyristyl betaine, isostearamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropryl betaine, lauryl betaine, myristyl betaine, oleamidopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, palmitamidopropyl betaine, ricinoleamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl betaine, stearyl betaine, tallow amidopropyl betaine, tallow betaine, tallow dihydroxyethyl betaine, undecyleneamidopropyl betaine, sunflower amidopropyl betaine, cetyl betaine, lauryl betaine.

Cocamidopropyl betaine is most particularly preferred.

Particularly suitable alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphodiacetates, alkylamphopropionates and alkylamphodipropionates are chosen from the group comprising cocobetainamido amphopropionate, DEA-cocoamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium Disodium Isostearoamphodiacetate, Disodium Isostearoamphodipropionate, Disodium Laureth-5 Carboxyboxyamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Oleoamphodipropionate, Disodium PPG-2-isodeceth-7-carboxyamphodiacetate, Disodium Stearoamphodiacetate, Tallow Amphodiacetate disodium, sodium caproamphopropionate, sodium capryloamphoacetate, sodium capryloamphopropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium isostearoamphoacetate sodium isostearoamphopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium myristoamphoacetate, sodium oleoamphoacetate, sodium oleoamphopropionate, sodium stearoamphoacetate, sodium stearoamphopropionate, sodium tallamphopropionate, sodium tallow amphoacetate, sodium undecylenoamphoacetate and sodium undecylenoamphopropionate.

Sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate are particularly preferred.

Particularly suitable alkylsultaines or alkylhydroxysultaines are selected from the group comprising caprylsultaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, coco-hydroxysultaine, coco-sultaine, erucamidopropylhydroxysultaine, lauramidopropylhydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine, laurylsultaine, myristamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, tallow amidopropylhydroxysultaine.

Particularly suitable alkylamine oxides are selected from the group comprising behenamine oxide, cocamidopropylamine oxide, cocamine oxide, decylamine oxide, decyltetradecylamine oxide, dihydroxyethyl-alkoxypropylamine oxide C8-10 dihydroxyethyl alkoxypropylamine C9-11 oxide, dihydroxyethyl alkoxypropylamine C12-15 oxide, dihydroxyethyl cocamine oxide, dihydroxyethyl lauramine oxide, dihydroxyethyl oxide -stearamine, dihydroxyethyl tallow amine oxide, hydrogenated tallow amine oxide, isostearamidopropylamine oxide, lauramidopropylamine oxide, lauramine oxide, myristamidopropylamine oxide, myristamine oxide, palmitamidopropylamine oxide, palmitamine oxide, PEG-3 lauramine oxide, stearamidopropylamine oxide, stearamine oxide, tallow amidopropylamine oxide, tallow oxide, tallow amine, undecylenamidopropylamine oxide.

The particularly suitable alkylamphoglycinates are chosen from the group comprising caproamphoglycinate, capryloamphoglycinate, cocoamphoglycinate, isostearoamphoglycinate, lauroamphoglycinate, myristoamphoglycinate, oleoamphoglycinate, stearoamphoglycinate, tallow amphoglycinate, undecylenoamphoglycinate.

Particularly suitable alkyliminodiacetates and alkyliminodipropionates are selected from the group comprising disodium cocaminopropyl iminodiacetate, disodium hydroxyethyl iminodiacetate, disodium lauriminodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium steariminodipropionate, disodium tallow iminodipropionate, disodium alkoxypropyl sodium C12-15 iminodipropionate, sodium cocoiminodiacetate, sodium lauriminodipropionate.

The particularly suitable alkylamphopropylsulfonates are chosen from sodium cocamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium oleoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium stearoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate,
disodium lauriminobishydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium caproamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium capryloamphohydroxypropylsulfonate.

The amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants d2), preferably alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine, alkylamphoacetate, alkylamphodiacetate, alkylamphopropionate, alkylamphodipropionate, can be used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in one amount of 0 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 6% by weight and most preferably 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant, chosen from alkylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphodiacetates, alkylamphopropionates, alkylamphodipropionates and their corresponding salt forms, and alkyl groups comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

In the case where the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain amphoteric and/or zwitterionic d2) surfactants (for example when they are packaged in the form of a shampoo), it is advantageous for these surfactants to be present in a certain weight ratio with respect to to alkyl(oligo)glycosides.

They are preferably used as a mixture with one or more alkyl(oligo)glycosides, particularly preferably in a weight ratio between the alkyl(oligo)glycosides a) and the sum of all the anionic surfactants d1) of 5:1 at 1:1.

In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention additionally contain at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant d2), the weight ratio between the alkyl(oligo)glycosides a) and the sum of all the surfactants amphoteric and/or zwitterionic d2) being from 5: 1 to 1: 1, preferably from 4: 1 to 1.5: 1 and in particular from 3.5: 1 to 2: 1.

Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that the cosmetic compositions contain, in addition to the alkyl(oligo)glycosides a), at least one anionic surfactant d1) - preferably an anionic carboxylate surfactant - and at least one surfactant amphoteric and/or zwitterionic d2) - preferably from the group of alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkylamphoacetates and/or alkylamphodiacetates.

In this embodiment, it is advantageous that the total content of surfactants (relative to the total weight of the compositions) does not exceed 25% by weight. Particularly preferred are total surfactant contents of 10 to 25% by weight, most preferably 11 to 22% by weight and especially 11 to 20% by weight.

As second essential ingredient, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one mono- and/or diester of glycerol and of a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C ₈ to C ₂₄ carboxylic acid, in a proportion by weight from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

The appropriate glycerol esters according to the invention are used in cosmetic compositions for improving hair care due to their lipid-replenishing effect. In addition, they combine very well with alkyl(oligo)glycosides.

The mono- and/or diesters, which dissolve and/or emulsify very well and without the addition of nonionic polymeric and/or alkoxylated adjuvants in the compositions according to the invention, are preferred.

Particularly suitable are, for example, the mono- and/or diesters of glycerol and of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, coconut acids, palmitic acid, stearic acid, petroselic acid, oleic acid, gadoleic acid, gondoic acid, cetoleic acid, erucic acid, linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid, because they can be obtained from natural (plant) resources and are easily biodegradable.

Compounds known by the INCI names Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate and/or Glyceryl Oleate are more preferred, Glyceryl Laurate and Glyceryl Oleate are more preferred and Glyceryl Oleate is most preferred.

The glycerol esters can be added to the compositions according to the invention individually or in the form of a mixture, in pure form or (to facilitate incorporation) in the form of a mixture with water and surfactants. The corresponding products are known and available, for example under the names Antil ^® HS 60, Emulgade ^® EQ or Lamesoft ^® PO 65.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain, relative to their total weight, 0.05 to 4.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.15 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.2 to 3% by weight of glycerol ester b).

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one glycerol ester known by the INCI name Glyceryl Oleate and/or Glyceryl Laurate.

In this embodiment, the compositions according to the invention which contain the Glyceryl Oleate in the quantities mentioned above are particularly preferred.

Trimethylglycine is used in the compositions according to the invention as a third essential component in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions.

In combination with the alkyl(oligo)glycosides a) and optionally other surfactants d1) and/or d2), trimethylglycine has a lather-stabilizing and irritation-reducing effect and reduces the amount of surfactant while maintaining good foam quantities and properties.

Furthermore, trimethylglycine is known as a moisturizing active principle in cosmetic agents and also serves as a hair conditioning component in the compositions according to the invention - in particular as an active principle strengthening the hair fibers.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain trimethylglycine in a proportion by weight of 0.05 to 4.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0. 15 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are preferably presented in an aqueous base. This means preferably a water content of at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 65% by weight and particularly preferably at least 70% by weight (based on the total weight of the compositions cosmetics).

It is possible to add other sparingly soluble or insoluble ingredients to the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, in the aqueous phase, without having to use alkoxylated compounds or polymeric stabilizers for their solubilization and/or their stabilization.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are substantially free of alkoxylated compounds.

As already indicated, the compositions according to the invention have excellent foam properties without it being necessary to add sulphated anionic surfactants.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are substantially free of sulphated anionic surfactants.

In the context of the present invention, the term “substantially free” is understood to mean a maximum content of alkoxylated compounds and/or sulphated surfactants of 0.01% by weight (relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions), which may be contained as impurity or by-product in the commercial products used.

Particularly preferably, the compositions according to the invention do not contain any alkoxylated compound and/or sulphated surfactant.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise other active principles which support or reinforce their cleansing and/or care properties.

Preferred optional active ingredients can be selected, for example, from the group consisting

- active ingredients which improve the hydration of the skin or the scalp, and/or

- oils and/or butters, preferably natural (vegetable) and/or mineral oils and/or vegetable butters, and/or

- plant extracts.

In addition, for some embodiments, a content of active ingredients from the group consisting

- cationic polymers, preferably cationic polymers of natural origin, and/or

- vitamins and/or

- protein hydrolysates and/or

- anti-dandruff agents

can also be beneficial.

By suitable active principles improving the hydration of the skin or the scalp and/or the structure of the hair fibre, is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, preferably polyols (that is to say polyalcohols or physiologically compatible polyhydroxy compounds) having 2 to 20 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.

Typical examples are straight chain, branched or cyclic alkanols having 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or or diglycerol, glycols such as polyethylene glycols and/or polypropylene glycols as well as sugar alcohols (alditols), sugars or sugar derivatives such as mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol, xylitol, fructose, glucose, lactose, galactose and/or sucrose.

Particularly preferred are C ₂ -C ₆ polyols, preferably alditols such as mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol and/or xylitol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, particularly preferably 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, and glycerol is particularly preferred.

The active ingredient(s) improving the hydration of the skin or the scalp and/or the structure of the hair fiber - preferably glycerol - can be used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in a proportion by weight of 0 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one C ₂ -C ₆ polyol, preferably alditols such as mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol and/or xylitol , 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, particularly preferably 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and / or diglycerol, particularly preferably glycerol, in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "natural" oils preferably means vegetable oils, particularly preferably cold-pressed vegetable oils.

"Cold pressed oil" means an oil obtained by cold pressing and/or cold extraction of the respective plant (or part of the respective plant) at a temperature lower than or equal to 40°C, preferably lower than or equal to at 35°C and particularly preferably less than or equal to 30°C.

Oils capable of being obtained by cold pressing or cold extraction and which are suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention are understood to mean preferably triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides such as amaranth seed oil , apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, bamboo oil, baobab oil, canola oil, safflower oil, pomegranate seed oil, rosehip oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, red currant oil, black currant oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, macadamia nut oil, mallow oil, almond oil (sweet), mango kernel oil, coconut oil evening primrose oil, olive oil, Brazil nut oil, passion fruit oil, palm kernel oil, peach kernel oil, rambutan oil, rice bran, castor oil, safflower oil, sasanqua oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tea tree oil, grapeseed oil, tsubaki oil, nuts, wheat germ oil and/or meadowfoam oil.

By suitable mineral oils is meant liquid or solid hydrocarbons such as petroleum jelly, ceresin, ozokerite, paraffins and/or isoparaffins.

Paraffins and/or isoparaffins that are liquid at room temperature (20° C.) are preferred.

The vegetable oil or oils, preferably cold pressed or cold extracted, and/or the mineral oil or oils are preferably present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in dispersed form, the size of the droplets of l the dispersed oil being 0.1 to 500 nm, preferably 0.5 to 300 nm.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain vegetable and/or mineral oils preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 3% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one vegetable and/or mineral oil in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Suitable vegetable butters preferably mean shea butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, apricot kernel butter, mafura butter, bacuri butter, tucuma, ucuuba butter and/or cupuacu butter. Shea butter is particularly preferred.

Vegetable butters can be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions. More preferred are proportions by weight of 0.025 to 0.75% by weight, particularly 0.05 to 0.5% by weight are particularly preferred.

Suitable plant extracts include extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom , almond tree, aloe vera, pine needle, horse chestnut, date palm, cinnamon, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, ononis coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root, and Ayurvedic plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala), grasses are such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelt, maize, different varieties of millet (common millet, finger millet or Italian foxtail, for example), cane sugar grass, ryegrass, meadow foxtail, Arrhenatherum elatius, bentgrass, meadow fescue, molinia, bamboo, cotton grass, species of the genus Pennisetum, species of the genus Andropogonodeae ( Imperata Cylindrica also called Red Baron or paillote), Cenchrus Ciliaris, cordgrass, quackgrass, species of the genus Eragrostis, species of the genus Cymbopogon (lemongrass), Oryzeae (rice), species of the genus Zizania ( wild rice), marram grass, Helictotrichon spp., seagrass, brize, bluegrass, Elimus spp. and Echinacea, in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (McGregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Mo ench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), all varieties of seaweed, coral moss and kelp (such as extract of Macrocystis Pyrifera), all varieties of vine, or even extracts of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis.

Suitable extracts can be obtained from the fruits, seeds, flowers, roots, leaves and/or barks of the aforementioned plants or from whole plants (seaweed, kelp).

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention either in a pure form or in a diluted form. When used in diluted form, they generally contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance as well as, as solvent, the extractant or the mixture of extractants used to obtain them. Water and/or alcohols are generally suitable extractants.

The plant extract or extracts can be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, preferably in total amounts ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 0.75% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, the amounts indicated relating to the weight of the cosmetic compositions.

By suitable cationic polymers of natural origin within the meaning of the present invention, one understands for example:

- quaternized cellulose derivatives, commercially available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® ,

- cationic starch derivatives, such as those commercially available under the name Mirustyle ^® ,

- hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example cationic polymers marketed under the trade name ^SoftCat® ,

- cationic alkylpolyglycosides,

- cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

- cationic guar derivatives, in particular the products marketed under the Cosmedia ^® Guar N-Hance ^® and Jaguar ^® trade names,

- cationic cassia and/or inulin derivatives such as the cationic polymers known by their trade name

- Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin.

Preference is given to quaternized cellulose polymers, hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose derivatives and/or cationic guar derivatives.

Particularly preferred are the cationic polymers known under the INCI names Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-67 and/or Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Corn Starch; most particularly preferred is Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain cationic polymers, preferably Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

By "suitable vitamins" is preferably meant the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, as well as their derivatives:

* Vitamin A: the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As a component of vitamin A, mention may be made, for example, of vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate.

* Vitamin B: belong among others to the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex:

> vitamin B ₁ (thiamin)

> vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

> vitamin B ₃ . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often presented under this name.

> vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). From this group, panthenol is preferably used. Panthenol derivatives which can be used are, in particular, panthenol esters and ethers, pantolactone and also cationically derived panthenols. Mention may be made, by way of examples of said derivatives, of panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic derivatives of panthenol.

> vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

* Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

* Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol).

* Vitamin F: “vitamin F” generally means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

* Vitamin H: The term "vitamin H" refers to the compound (3aS,4S, 6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeric acid, however commonly called "biotin".

Particularly preferred are vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, E and H. Particularly preferred are nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and/or panthenol; nicotinamide and/or panthenol are particularly preferred.

The proportion by weight of the vitamin(s), of the vitamin derivative(s) and/or of the vitamin precursor(s) in the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention is preferably 0.005 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.006 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.008 to 1% by weight and especially 0.01 to 0.50% by weight.

By "suitable protein hydrolysates" is meant the mixtures of products which can be obtained by degradation by acid, alkaline or enzymatic catalysis of proteins.

Use may be made of protein hydrolysates of vegetable, animal and/or marine origin.

Protein hydrolysates of animal origin are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are for example sold under the trade names Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois ^® (Interorgana), Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and ^Kerasol® (Croda).

Preference is given to protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin, for example soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat hydrolysates. Such products are for example available under the trade names Gluadin ^® (Cognis), DiaMin ^® (Diamalt), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda).

It is also possible to use cationic protein hydrolysates, the base protein hydrolyzate possibly being of animal origin, for example derived from collagen, milk or keratin, of vegetable origin, for example derived from wheat, corn , rice, potato, soya or almonds, of marine origin, for example derived from fish or algae collagen, or derived from protein hydrolysates derived from biotechnologies. The protein hydrolysates underlying the cationic derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical hydrolysis, in particular alkaline or acid, by enzymatic hydrolysis and/or by a combination of the two types of hydrolysis. Protein hydrolysis generally yields a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to cationic protein hydrolysates whose base protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5,000 daltons. Additionally, quaternary amino acids and mixtures thereof are understood as cationic protein hydrolysates. Quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often accomplished using quaternary ammonium salts such as N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro -n-propyl)-ammonium. Additionally, cationic protein hydrolysates can also be derivatized. Classical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are the commercially available products known under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyz ed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl, Hydrolyzed Case Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Protein, Steardimonium Hydrolyzed Silk Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hyd roxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium- 79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

The proportion by weight of the protein hydrolyzate(s) relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 3% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 2% by weight.

Within the meaning of the present invention, suitable anti-dandruff agents are piroctones, olamine, climbazole, zinc, pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulphide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts, arnica extracts and/or propanediol caprylate.

It is preferred to use in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention natural anti-dandruff active principles such as the plant extracts mentioned above and/or anti-dandruff active principles available from natural sources such as propanediol caprylate.

The proportion by weight of anti-dandruff agents in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 4% by weight and particularly preferably from 0 .05 to 3% by weight.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the proportion by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of the ingredients of the cosmetic composition which are substantially of natural origin is greater than or equal to 90% by weight, particularly preferably equal to 92.5% by weight and in particular greater than or equal to 95% by weight. An ingredient conforming to the ISO 16128 standard or the COSMOS standard should be considered as “essentially of natural origin”.

Other active principles, adjuvants and additives which can preferably be contained in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are for example:

- the perfumes,

- UV filters,

- cyclodextrins,

- (natural) dyes for coloring the agent,

- active ingredients such as bisabolol and/or allantoin,

- complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

- ceramides. By ceramides is meant N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogues of these lipids (called pseudo-ceramides),

- antioxidants,

- preservatives, such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid,

- pH adjusting agents such as citric acid and/or lactic acid,

- viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).

A second subject of the invention is the use, in particular in the form of a shampoo, of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for cleaning and caring for human hair.

As regards other preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been said about the compositions according to the invention applies.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the object of the present invention without limiting it thereto.

Examples:

The following cosmetic compositions according to the invention were prepared (the amounts indicated are expressed in [% by weight]):

1 2 3 4 Alkyl(oligo)glycoside 6 – 18 Coco Glucoside, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside and/or Lauryl Glucoside 7.5 – 16 8 – 15 8.5 – 14 Glycerol monoester and/or C ₈ -C ₂₄ carboxylic acid diester 0.01 – 5 Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate and/or Glyceryl Oleate 0.01 – 5 Glyceryl Oleate 0.1 – 4 0.1 – 4 Trimethylglycine 0.01 – 5 0.1 – 4 0.2 – 3 0.2 – 3 Anionic surfactant 0 – 8 1 – 6 Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate 1.5 – 5 Amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant 0 – 8 1 – 6 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.5 – 5 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 1.5 – 5 Glycerol 0.01 - 10 0.05 - 7.5 0.1 – 5 Cationic polymer 0 – 2 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.01 – 1 Cold pressed natural oil 0.01 – 5 0.05 – 1 Apricot kernel oil 0.05 – 1 0.05 – 1 Perfume, preservative, pH adjusting agent q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Water Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100

Claims (13)

Cosmetic composition for cleaning and caring for keratin fibres, in particular human hair, containing (relative to the total weight of the composition)
a) 6 to 18% by weight of at least one alkyl(oligo)glycoside,
b) 0.01 to 5% by weight of at least one mono- and / or diester of glycerol and a saturated or unsaturated C ₈ to C ₂₄ carboxylic acid, straight or branched chain,
c) 0.01 to 5% by weight of trimethylglycine. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, containing alkyl(oligo)glycosides a) of formula RO-[G] _X , in which R represents an alkyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms of carbon and x (degree of oligomerization) represents a number from 1 to 10, preferably containing alkyl(oligo)glucosides having a C ₈ to C ₁₈ alkyl radical and a degree of oligomerization from 1 to 3, in particular Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and/or Coco Glucoside. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one glycerol ester known by the INCI names Glyceryl Oleate and/or Glyceryl Laurate. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, additionally containing at least one anionic surfactant (d1)) and/or at least one amphoteric surfactant and/or at least one zwitterionic surfactant (d2)). Cosmetic composition according to Claim 4 containing at least one anionic carboxylate surfactant d1), chosen from acylglycinates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, acylaspartates, acyltaurates, acylisethionates, sulfosuccinates and their corresponding salt forms, the acyl groups comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 4 containing at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant, chosen from alkylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphodiacetates, alkylamphopropionates, alkylamphodipropionates and their corresponding salt forms, and the alkyl groups comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 4 or 5, in which the weight ratio between the alkyl(oligo)glycoside a) and the sum of all the anionic surfactants d1) is from 5: 1 to 1: 1, preferably from 4:1 to 1.5:1 and especially from 3.5:1 to 2:1. Cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 4 or 6, in which the weight ratio between the alkyl(oligo)glycoside a) and the sum of all the amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants d2) is from 5: 1 to 1: 1 , preferably from 4: 1 to 1.5: 1 and in particular from 3.5: 1 to 2: 1. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one C ₂ -C ₆ polyol, preferably alditols such as mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol and/or xylitol, 1,2 -propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, particularly preferably 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and/or diglycerol, particularly preferably glycerol, in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims containing at least one vegetable and/or mineral oil in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, which is substantially free of sulphated anionic surfactants. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, which is substantially free of alkoxylated compounds. Use, in particular in the form of a shampoo, of a cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 1 to 12 for cleaning or caring for human hair.