FR3052061A1 - - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic cleaning compositions, which contain a. at least one anionic surfactant and / or a fatty acid soap, b. at least one animal wax and / or animal wax derivative, c. at least one vegetable oil, d. at least one C2-C6 polyol, e. at least one natural thickening agent, f. at least one chamomile extract and g. allantoin, are characterized by excellent skin care properties (soothing effect for the skin, moisturizing properties). In addition, they remain stable in case of conservation and have a pleasant texture.

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics and relates to cleaning compositions having a high care effectiveness, which are based on a mixture of specific active substances, including anionic surfactants and / or fatty acid soaps , animal waxes, vegetable oils, polyols, natural thickeners, chamomile extract and allantoin.

Cosmetic cleaning compositions generally contain surfactants. Because of their excellent foaming properties, anionic surfactants are generally used as primary surfactants; however they may have the disadvantage in higher amounts, soften the skin and eliminate lipids from the outer layers of the skin. If you do not inject lipids during or after cleaning in the form of creams, lotions and / or shower gels, the (sensitive) skin, especially after frequent cleaning with commercially available cleaning agents, may become dry. fragile and sometimes crack.

In the past, many attempts have been made to produce mild care cosmetic cleansers that dry out the skin less, and that make another step of treatment with unnecessary care agents. However, the lack of stability of the mild compositions, which often contain a high proportion of conditioning components, and / or a small proportion of (anionic) surfactants has again and again been problematic. The so-called Cold Creams have been known for a long time, which have been manufactured for several centuries and are essentially based on a mixture of vegetable or animal waxes, oils and water.

However, the products were extremely unstable and quickly became rancid.

Over time, ways to stabilize Cold Creams have been found, with the use of a mineral oil and borax blend in Cold Creams being the most effective.

However, all the products had the disadvantage that they had an undesirable heavy texture and that they left a very unsightly greasy film on the treated skin.

In the application EP 929290A2, the use of borax was abandoned and instead a combination of water, polyols, polyisobutene and silicones were transformed into Cold Cream.

In this way, it has been possible to develop lighter and lighter products that are absolutely suitable for cleaning in the sense of removing makeup. Incorporation (even modern) of Cold Creams in conventional cosmetic cleaning compositions containing surfactants was not possible, however, because the care components of Colds Creams - waxes and oils - could not be stabilized satisfactory.

In addition, there is a growing need for natural, gentle and curative cleaning products in which the use of borax, mineral oils and / or synthetic oils should be avoided as much as possible.

It is an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic, skin-friendly, cleansing cosmetic compositions which contain ingredients of conventional Colds Creams. These must have excellent texture and very good stability and conservation characteristics.

The compositions should also moisturize the skin, and ideally have a calming effect - especially on sensitive and / or irritated skin.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the problems mentioned above are solved remarkably by using cosmetic cleaning compositions in which anionic surfactants and / or soaps with special care substances (animal waxes, vegetable oils). , extracts of chamomile flowers and allantoin) were stabilized in a base containing polyols and water by natural thickeners.

The cleaning compositions are stable in storage and at temperature and have very good care properties: they leave a non-greasy and smooth sensation on the skin after their application and in particular preserve the skin's water balance during and after washing .

In addition, irritated, red and / or itchy skin could be soothed.

A first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic cleaning composition containing a) at least one anionic surfactant and / or a fatty acid soap, b) at least one animal wax and / or an animal wax derivative, c) at least one vegetable oil, d) at least one C2-C6 polyol, e) at least one natural thickening agent, f) at least one chamomile extract and g) allantoin.

The cleaning compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a first preferred embodiment as liquid cleaning compositions, such as liquid soaps, shower gels, shower creams, shower baths, shower balms. and / or bath creams (more?). In this case, they contain the active substances a) to g), preferably in a suitable cosmetic medium. Among them, it is preferable in the context of the invention, an aqueous support which contains (relative to the total weight of cosmetic cleaning compositions) preferably at least 65% by weight, more preferably at least 70% by weight, particularly preferably at least 75% by weight and most preferably at least 80% by weight of water.

In a second preferred embodiment, the cleaning compositions according to the invention can be formulated as solid soap bars, synthetic detergents, Combar and / or bath salts. In this case, they contain, in addition to the active ingredients a) to g) (and optionally other ingredients), preferably at most 15% by weight, more preferably 12.5% by weight and particularly preferably at most 10 % by weight, of water (the figures indicated relating to the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning compositions).

It has been found that a number of anionic surfactants and / or particularly mild soaps are suitable for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention. They give the compositions a satisfying foaming power and a rich and creamy foam.

It is particularly advantageous to also be able to use anionic surfactants based on natural raw materials (such as amino acids).

Preferred anionic surfactants a) within the meaning of the present invention may be selected from: - acylsarcosinates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - acyltaurates containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - acylisethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, - acyl glycinates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, - acyl lactylates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, - mono and / or or dialkylsulfosuccinic acid esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and the monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester of sulfosuccinic acid having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, and / or - the sulfates of alkyl and / or alkyl ether sulfate salts of the formula R- (OCH2-CH2) n-SO3X, wherein R is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain alkyl group having 8 to 24 atoms carbon, x, the number 0 or 1 to 12 and X, an alkaline, alkaline earth, ammonium or alkanolamine ion,

Particularly preferred anionic surfactants a) are alkali metal salts, alkaline earth salts and / or ammonium salts of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, acylisethionates, acyl glycinates, acyl taurates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl lactylates and / or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl sulfosuccinates, the alkyl or acyl groups of which each have 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferred are the compounds known under the names INCI Sodium Laureth Suifate, Sodium Myreth Suifate, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyi Lactyate, Sodium Stearoyl Lactyate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Cocoyi Glycinate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyi Glycinate, Sodium Cocoyi Taurate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyi Taurate, Sodium Myristoyi Sarcosinate, Sodium Cocoyi Sarcosinate, Sodium Tallowate, Sodium Palmate and / or Sodium Lardate and mixtures of these.

The proportion of the at least one anionic surfactant a) in the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning compositions according to the first preferred embodiment is preferably 0.10 to 20.00% by weight, particularly preferably 0, 50 to 15.00% by weight and in particular 1.00 to 10.00% by weight.

The term "fatty acid soaps" commonly refers to sodium, potassium or ammonium salts of fatty acids. By "fatty acids" is meant linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated carboxylic acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as, for example, caproic acid, caprylic acid, acid 2 hexhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, isostearic acid, isotridecanoic acid, but also elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, elaesostearic acid , arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Industrial fatty acid mixtures such as can be obtained from vegetable and animal fats and oils, for example, tallow fatty acids, coconut fatty acids, fatty acids, are preferred. of olive oil, palm oil fatty acids, lard fatty acids and / or palm kernel oil fatty acids.

The sodium salts of the following fatty acids are particularly preferred for use in the compositions according to the invention: tallow fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Tallowate), coconut fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Cocoate), fatty acids of olive oil (INCI name: Sodium Olivate), palm oil fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Palmate), lard fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Lardate), and / or fatty acids of palm kernel oil (INCI name: Sodium Palm Kemelate).

The total proportion of fatty acid soaps in the cosmetic cleaning compositions according to the second preferred embodiment is preferably 20.0 to 80.0% by weight, more preferably 30.0 to 75.0% by weight. and particularly preferably 40.0 to 70.0% by weight, the figures shown referring to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

A third preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, acylisethionates and acyl glycinates. acyl taurates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl lactylates and / or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl or acyl groups each contain 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and the at least one fatty acid soap selected from tallow fatty acid sodium salts (INCI name: Sodium Tallowate) coconut fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Cocoate) fatty acids from oil of olive (INCI name: Sodium Olivate), palm oil fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium

Palmate), lard fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Lardate), and / or palm kernel oil fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Palm Kernelate).

In this embodiment, cosmetic cleaning compositions in which the at least one anionic surfactant and / or the fatty acid soap a) are chosen from the compounds known under the INCI Sodium names are particularly preferred. Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Tallowate, Sodium Palmate and / or Sodium Lardate, as well as mixtures thereof.

A fourth preferred embodiment is characterized in that - the at least one anionic surfactant a) is present, relative to the total weight of the

Composition, in proportions of from 0.10 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 0.50 to 15.0% by weight and in particular from 1.00 to 10.0% by weight, and / or fatty acid soap a) is present, relative to the total weight of the composition, in proportions of 20.0 to 80.0% by weight, preferably 30.0 to 75.0% by weight and in particular from 40.0 to 70.0% by weight.

Suitable components b) within the meaning of the present invention may be preferably selected from beeswax (Cera Alba), or other insect waxes, whale white, wool wax (lanolin), uropygial fats and / or derivatives of these waxes. Suitable wax derivatives are preferably wax derivatives modified with polyalkylene glycol and / or polyglycerol, because in addition to their care properties they can help the emulsion of vegetable oils. cleaning according to the invention.

At least one animal wax and / or the wax derivative b) must preferably be solid to obtain optimum stability of the compositions according to the invention preferably at 25 ° C., and have a melting range of 45 ° C. to 85 ° C. C, more preferably from 50 ° C to 80 ° C and in particular from 55 ° C to 75 ° C.

The beeswax modified with polyalkylene glycol and / or polyglycerol are particularly preferred in the sense of the present invention, the beeswax derivatives known under the names INCI PEG- (2-25) Beeswax and / or Polyglyceryl- (2-10) Beeswax being especially preferred.

The cleaning compositions according to the invention particularly preferably contain as component b) beeswax or one of the beeswax derivatives known under the names INCI PEG-3 Beeswax, PEG-8 Beeswax and / or Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, preferably beeswax (Cera Alba)

The proportion of the at least one animal wax and / or animal wax derivative b) in the total weight of the compositions according to the invention is preferably 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.05% by weight. to 5.0% by weight and particularly preferably 0.10 to 3.0% by weight.

In a fifth preferred embodiment, the cleaning compositions according to the invention which contain, as wax of animal origin and / or derivative of animal wax, beeswax or other insect wax, white, are preferred. whale wax, wool wax (lanolin), uropygian fat and / or a derivative of these waxes.

In this embodiment, the cleaning compositions according to the invention which contain as animal wax and / or animal wax derivative b) beeswax and / or at least one of the beeswax derivatives known under the names INCI PEG- (2-25) Beeswax and / or Polyglyceryl- (2-10) Beeswax.

In this embodiment, the cleaning compositions according to the invention which contain, as animal wax and / or animal wax derivative, b) beeswax or at least one of beeswax known as INCI PEG-3 Beeswax, PEG-8 Beeswax and / or Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, preferably beeswax. The following oils are preferably used as vegetable oils: c) Coconut oil, almond oil (sweet), walnut oil, peach kernel oil apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, Tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, mango oil, cranberry oil, sea buckthorn oil, meadowfoam seed oil, safflower oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil , bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mauve oil, hazelnut oil, castor oil, oil safflower oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan, butter cocoa and / or shea butter. Particularly preferred are soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, safflower oil, wheat germ oil, l peach kernel oil, cranberry oil, sea buckthorn oil and / or coconut oil and the particularly preferred oil is sunflower oil.

Optimum care results and excellent stability of the cleaning compositions according to the invention have been obtained when a combination of - Beeswax (Cera Alba), PEG-3 - has been used as a mixture of active care ingredients. Beeswax, PEG-8 Beeswax and / or Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax and - soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil , almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, safflower oil , wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, cranberry oil, sea buckthorn oil and / or coconut oil; especially beeswax (Cera Alba) and sunflower oil.

The proportion of the at least one vegetable oil c) in the total weight of the compositions according to the invention is preferably 0.01 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 15.0% by weight. and particularly preferably 0.10 to 10.0% by weight.

In a sixth preferred embodiment, the cleaning compositions according to the invention which contain as vegetable oil c) soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, canola oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, safflower oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, cranberry, sea buckthorn oil and / or coconut oil, especially sunflower oil.

Suitable C2-C6 polyols d) within the meaning of the present invention are preferably polyols having in their molecule 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups.

Examples of preferred Ca-Ce d) polyols are: Ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,3-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, sorbitol or mixtures of these polyols.

Water-soluble alcohols are particularly preferred.

Preferred alcohols are 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, diglycerol and / or dipropylene glycol; glycerol is particularly preferred.

The proportion of the at least one C2-C6 polyol d) in the total weight of the compositions according to the invention is preferably 1.0 to 25.0% by weight, more preferably 2.0 to 20.0% by weight. % by weight and particularly preferably 3.0 to 15.0% by weight.

In a seventh preferred embodiment, the cleaning compositions according to the invention which contain as C2-C6 polyol d) 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,6 hexanediol, diglycerol and / or dipropylene glycol, preferably glycerol, are preferred.

By natural thickeners e) within the meaning of the present invention is meant preferably natural hydrocolloids. It has been found that natural hydrocolloids are particularly well suited for stabilizing skin care ingredients b) and c) in a base of water, polyols d) and surfactants a) over a long period of time. period.

In addition, the use of natural hydrocolloids in the compositions according to the invention gave cleaners with a very pleasant texture.

Examples of preferred natural thickening agents e) are:

Polysaccharides such as glucanase, modified and unmodified starches, amylose, amylopectin, dextrans, cellulose and its derivatives (methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose), mannan, xylan, lignin, chitin, chitosans, pectins, alginic acids and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans and carrageenates, agar-agar, gums (arabic, karaya), locust bean gum, galactomannans such as gum guar and its nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), xanthan gum, scleroglucan and mixtures thereof.

Particularly good results in terms of stability and texture of the compositions according to the invention have been obtained when using as natural thickening agent e) at least one carrageenan, and / or carrageenate.

The proportion of the at least one natural thickening agent e) in the total weight of the compositions according to the invention is preferably 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably 0.10 to 2.00% by weight. weight and particularly preferably 0.20 to 1.50% by weight.

In an eighth preferred embodiment, the cleaning compositions according to the invention which contain, as at least one natural thickening agent, e) polysaccharides, such as glucanase, modified and unmodified starches, amyloid amylopectin, dextrans, cellulose and its derivatives (methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose), mannans, xylans, lignins, chitin, chitosans, pectins, alginic acids and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans and carrageenates, agar-agar, gums (arabic, karaya), locust bean gum, galactomannans such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), xanthan gum, scleroglucan and their mixtures.

Particularly preferred cleaning compositions according to the invention in this embodiment contain carrageenans and / or carrageenates as natural thickener e).

The cleaning compositions according to the invention contain at least one camomile extract f) as another essential active substance, which is preferably used in a proportion of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.003 to 0 , 75% by weight and in particular from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the compositions according to the invention. Chamomile extract can be produced by known production methods - for example by grinding - of all parts of the plant or of individual parts of chamomile (such as leaves, flowers, roots), and possibly followed by drying and / or extraction. The extraction usually takes place at high temperatures in an extractor (eg Soxhiet). In this case, the appropriate solvents are used depending on the components soluble in the oil or in the water of the plant (parts of the plant).

As extraction agents for producing the plant extracts mentioned, it is possible to use, for example, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof. The alcohols envisaged are, for example, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol and / or sorbitol, at the once as the sole extractant or in a mixture with water. For example, water / alcohol based plant extracts in a ratio of 1: 10 to 10: 1 have been found particularly suitable.

For the cleaning agents according to the invention, extracts of chamomile flowers are particularly suitable because of their excellent effect of soothing the skin. These can be oil-based, aqueous or hydroalcoholic. Corresponding extracts are commercially available in the mixture with the respective extractant from various suppliers, for example from Cosmetochem, Symrise or Croda.

In a ninth preferred embodiment, the cleaning compositions according to the invention which contain, as camomile extract f), an extract of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oil-based chamomile flowers in a proportion of 0.001 are preferred. at 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.003 to 0.75% by weight and in particular from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the cleaning composition.

In a tenth embodiment according to the invention, the preferred cleaning compositions contain allantoin g) in a proportion of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 0.75% by weight and in particular from 0.010 to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the cleaning compositions. It has been found that the combination of the active substances b), c), f) and g) forms a very effective skincare complex in the cleaning compositions according to the invention which regenerates, not only the dry skin, sensitive and / or irritated and give it more moisture and softness but also reduce or eliminate the feelings of tightness and / or itching. Particularly preferred is a care complex which contains (based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning composition according to the invention): from 0.10 to 3.0% by weight of beeswax (Cera Alba) from 0.10 to 10.0% by weight of sunflower oil, from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight of chamomile flower extract, from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of allantoin.

Stability and texture, particularly liquid cleaning compositions according to the invention can be further improved by the addition of a higher fatty alcohol.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "higher fatty alcohols" is intended to mean linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 12 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 26 and in particular from 20 to 24. The arachidic alcohol, Behenyl alcohol and / or lignoceryl alcohol are particularly preferred and behenyl alcohol is more preferred.

The higher fatty alcohol (s) can be used in the cleaning compositions according to the invention preferably in a proportion of 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 2.0 to 8.0% by weight. and in particular from 3.0 to 6.0% by weight of the total weight of the cleaning composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the cleaning compositions according to the invention further comprise a higher alcohol - preferably, behenyl alcohol - in a proportion of 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 2.0 to 8.0% by weight and in particular from 3.0 to 6.0% by weight of the total weight of the cleaning composition.

In another preferred embodiment, it may be advantageous to further increase the softness and / or foaming properties of the cleaning compositions according to the invention that they additionally contain, relative to their weight, from 0.10 to 15%. , 00% by weight, preferably 0.50 to 10.00% by weight and in particular 0.75 to 7.50% by weight of at least one amphoteric, zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactant.

Particularly preferred amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants are those known under the names INCI Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Sodium Cocoamphopropionate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Cocoamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Coco Sultaine, Lauryl Sultaine, Coco Betaine, Lauryl Betaine Cocamidopropylbetain and / or Lauramidopropylbetain and commercially available from several suppliers.

Cocamidopropylbetain and / or Cocoampho (di) acetate are particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkanolamides of fatty acids, preferably the monoalkanolamides of C 8 -C 24 carboxylic acid and / or the di-alkanolamides (C 2 -C 4) of carboxylic acid, and in particular the compounds known under the names INCI Cocamide MEA and / or cocamide MIRA, alkylpoylglucosides, preferably the compounds known under the names INCI Coco Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and / or Decyl Glucoside, the mono and diesters of fatty acid in Ce-Cao of adducts of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide on glycerol, and in particular the compound known under the name INCI PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate, - mono and diesters of fatty acids in Cs -Cao of glycerol, and in particular the compound known by the name INCI Glyceryl Caprylate / Caprate, - glucamides, in particular the compounds known under the names INCI Cocoyl Methyl Glucamide or Lauroyl / Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide.

Cocamide MEA and / or PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate are particularly preferred because of their foam stabilizing and / or nourishing properties.

In addition to the essential and optional ingredients mentioned above, the cosmetic cleaning compositions according to the invention may contain, to further increase the care properties of the agents, at least one other active conditioning substance, preferably an active conditioning substance. skin selected from the group of cationic polymers, and / or vitamins.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example: quaternized cellulose derivatives, as commercially available under the designations

Celquat ® and Polymer JR®, - Hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example the cationic polymers sold under the trade name SoftCat®, - cationic alkylpolyglycosides, - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat® 50, - the cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the trade names Cosmedia®Guar N-Hance® and Jaguar®, - dimethyldiallylammonium salts polymers and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The products commercially available under the names Merquat®100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat®550 (copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide) are examples of these cationic polymers, - vinyipyrrolidone copolymers with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate such as, for example, vinyipyrrolidone copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate and dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate methacrylate. These compounds are commercially available as Gafquat®734 and Gafquat®755, vinylimidazolium vinyipyrrolidone and copolymers as proposed under the designation Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM. 552, a quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-74 and Polyquaternium-89. cationic polysaccharide polymers such as quaternized cellulose polymers, hydrophobically-modified cationic cellulose derivatives and / or cationic guar derivatives, as well as dimethyldiallylammonium polymers and copolymers thereof with esters and acid amides are preferred. acrylic and methacrylic acid. Particularly preferred are cationic polymers known as INCI Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquatemium-37, Polyquaternium-67 Polyquaternium-72, Polyquaternium-6 and / or Polyquaternium-7; Polyquaternium-7 is particularly preferred.

The cosmetic cleaning compositions according to the invention comprise cationic polymers - preferably polyquatemium-7 - in a proportion of 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.10 to 2.00% by weight. weight and in particular from 0.20 to 1.50% by weight in the total weight of the cleaning compositions.

Suitable "vitamins" are preferably vitamins, provitamins and the following vitamin precursors, and their derivatives: • Vitamin A: the group of substances called vitamins A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3, 4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). Carotenep is provitamin of retinol. The vitamin A components contemplated are, for example, retinoic acid and its esters, retinal, and retinol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate.

• Vitamin B: Vitamin B or vitamin B complex includes> vitamin B (thiamine)> vitamin B2 (riboflavin)> and vitamin B3. This designation groups the nicotinic acid compounds and the nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide). > Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol oil). Within this group, panthenol is preferably used. Suitable panthenol derivatives which can be used are, in particular, esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and cationically derived panthenols. Representative derivatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and cationic derivatives of panthenol. > Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxine and pyridoxal). • Vitamin C ascorbic acid: use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. • Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). • Vitamin F: The term "vitamin F" usually includes essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. • Vitamin H: Vitamin H refers to the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid for which the trivial name of biotin has prevailed in the meantime.

The vitamins, provitamins and precursors of the vitamin A, B, E and H are particularly preferred. Nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol are particularly preferred; nicotinamide is even more particularly preferred.

The proportion by weight of the vitamin (s), vitamin derivative (s) and / or vitamin precursor (s) in the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning compositions according to the invention preferably represents 0.005 to 2.00% by weight, more preferably 0.006 to 1.50% by weight, particularly preferably 0.008 to 1.00% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.50% by weight. Other active substances, excipients and adjuvants that can be used in the cosmetic cleaning compositions according to the invention are, for example: UV filters, structuring agents such as maleic acid or lactic acid, dyes for coloring the product, - pH-modifying substances, such as, for example, α- and α-hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, - agents complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, acid-alanine-diacetic acid and phosphonic acids, ceramides. By ceramides is meant N-acylsphingosine (sphingosine fatty acid amide) or synthetic analogues of these lipids ("pseudo-ceramides"), propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air, antioxidants, pearlescent agents such as EGDS or PEG-3 Distearate, opacifying agents such as compounds known under the INCI name Styrene / Acrylates-Copolymer, compounds perfume, - a viscosity regulator such as electrolyte salts (NaCl).

A second subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a combination comprising a) at least one anionic surfactant and / or a fatty acid soap, b) at least one animal wax and / or a wax derivative (c) at least one vegetable oil, (d) at least one C2-C6 polyol, (e) at least one natural thickening agent, (f) at least one chamomile extract and (g) allantoin in the cleaning agents for the skin to rinse, in order to improve - the effectiveness of the care; the soothing effect for the skin; moisturizing properties; - stability; and - the texture of the skin care agent.

Regarding other preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been exposed to the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Examples: I. The following liquid cosmetic cleaning preparations were prepared (the figures indicated are expressed in% by weight):

1,3: shower balm; 2: bath cream; 4: liquid soap; 5, 6: shower cream

The cosmetic cleaning compositions according to the invention of Examples 1 to 6 have, compared to the control formulations (which lack one or more active substances a) to g)) improved stability and texture. They have a lasting effect on rough and / or flaky skin and give a smooth, smooth skin feeling that can still be felt for a long time after rinsing the compositions. II. The cosmetic cleansing preparation was prepared according to the following invention (the figures indicated are expressed in% by weight):

Claims (15)

claims 1. Cosmetic cleaning composition containing: a) at least one anionic surfactant and / or a fatty acid soap, b) at least one animal wax and / or an animal wax derivative, c) at least one vegetable oil d) at least one C2-C6 polyol; e) at least one natural thickening agent; f) at least one chamomile extract; and g) allantoin. 2. Cosmetic cleaning composition according to claim 1, in which the at least one anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, acylisethionates and acyl glycinates. acyl taurates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl lactoylates and / or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl or acyl groups each contain 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably the compounds known under the names INCI Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Tallowate, Sodium Palmate and / or Sodium Lardate and mixtures thereof, and - the at least one acne soap. ide gras is selected from the sodium salts of tallow fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Tallowate) coconut fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Cocoate) olive oil fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Olivate ), palm oil fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Palmate), lard fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Lardate), and / or palm kernel oil fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Palm Kernelate) preferably from the compounds known by the names INCI Sodium Tallowate, Sodium Palmate and / or Sodium Lardate and mixtures thereof. 3. Cosmetic cleaning composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which - the at least one anionic surfactant a) is present, relative to the total weight of the composition, in proportions of 0.10 to 20. , 0% by weight, preferably from 0.50 to 15.0% by weight and in particular from 1.00 to 10.0% by weight, and / or - the fatty acid soap a) is present, by relative to the total weight of the composition, in proportions of 20.0 to 80.0% by weight, preferably from 30.0 to 75.0% by weight and in particular from 40.0 to 70.0% by weight . A cosmetic cleaning composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one animal wax and / or its derivative b) are selected from beeswax, or other insect waxes, white whale, wool wax (lanolin), uropygian fats and / or derivatives of these waxes. 5. Cosmetic cleaning composition according to claim 4, wherein the at least one animal wax and / or its derivative b) are chosen from beeswax and / or at least one of the beeswax derivatives known in the art. the INCI names PEG- (2-25) Beeswax and / or Polyglyceryl- (2-10) Beeswax, preferably from beeswax or one of the beeswax derivatives known under the names INCI PEG-3 Beeswax, PEG-8 Beeswax and / or Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, and particularly preferably beeswax. 6. Cosmetic cleaning composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one animal wax and / or its derivative b) are present, relative to the total weight of the composition, in a proportion of 0.01. 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5.0% by weight and in particular 0.10 to 3.0% by weight. The cosmetic cleaning composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one vegetable oil c) selected from soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil, palms, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame, soybean oil, safflower oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, cranberry oil, sea buckthorn oil and / or coconut oil - preferably sunflower oil. 8. Cosmetic cleaning composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one vegetable oil c) is present, relative to the total weight of the composition, in a proportion of 0.01 to 20.0%. by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15.0% by weight and in particular from 0.10 to 10.0% by weight. A cosmetic cleaning composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one C2-C6 polyol d) is 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, diglycerol and / or dipropylene glycol, preferably glycerol. 10. Cosmetic cleaning composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one C2-C6 polyol d) is present, relative to the total weight of the composition, in a proportion of 1.0 to 25. , 0% by weight, preferably from 2.0 to 20.0% by weight and in particular from 3.0 to 15.0% by weight. 11. Cosmetic cleaning composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one natural thickener e) is selected from polysaccharides such as glucanase, modified and unmodified starches, amylose, amylopectin. , dextrans, cellulose and its derivatives (methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose), mannans, xylans, lignins, chitin, chitosans, pectins, alginic acids and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans and carrageenates, agar-agar, gums (arabic, karaya), locust bean gum, galactomannans such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), xanthan gum, scleroglucan and mixtures thereof, preferably from carrageenans and / or carrageenates. 12. Cosmetic cleaning composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one natural thickening agent e) is present, relative to the total weight of the composition, in a proportion of 0.01 to 3.00. % by weight, preferably from 0.10 to 2.00% by weight and in particular from 0.20 to 1.50% by weight. A cosmetic cleaning composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing chamomile extract f), an aqueous, hydroalcoholic, oil-based chamomile flower extract, which is present, based on total weight. of the composition, in a proportion of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.003 to 0.75% by weight and in particular from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight. 14. Cosmetic cleaning composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing, relative to the total weight of the composition, allantoin g) in a proportion of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 0.75% by weight and in particular from 0.010 to 0.5% by weight. 15. Cosmetic use of a combination comprising, a) at least one anionic surfactant and / or a fatty acid soap, b) at least one animal wax and / or an animal wax derivative, c) at least one vegetable oil, d) at least one C2-C6 polyol, e) at least one natural thickening agent, f) at least one chamomile extract and g) allantoin in the cleaning agents for the skin to be rinsed, so to improve - the effectiveness of the care; - the soothing effect for the skin; - moisturizing properties; - stability; and - the texture of the skin care agent.