FR3110409A1 - "Cleaning compositions with a high proportion of natural components" - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for cleaning and caring for keratin fibres, in particular human hair, which comprises a C8-30 alkyl sulphate, an alkyl (oligo)glycoside and trimethylglycine. The present invention also relates to the use of cosmetic compositions for cleaning or caring for human hair, in particular the use in the form of shampoo.

Description

"Cleaning compositions with a high proportion of natural components"

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for cleaning and caring for keratin fibers, in particular human hair, the cosmetic compositions comprising alkylsulphates, alkyl (oligo) glycosides and trimethylglycine.

Environmental aspects play an increasingly important role in the manufacture of cosmetic products. For consumers, prudent use of resources and energy-efficient manufacturing processes are particularly important. However, even in the overall makeup of cosmetics, attention is increasingly being paid to a high proportion of environmentally friendly ingredients, such as microplastics.

In the context of a more sustainable use of raw materials and energy, it remains desirable to use in cosmetic products only cosmetic raw materials available from renewable raw materials using as little energy as possible. A reduction in the quantity or even a complete exchange of undesirable or problematic substances will only be possible if there are other possibilities which also have the desired properties for the application.

In recent years, for example, attempts have been made to move away from alkoxylated surfactants and emulsifiers in cosmetic agents for the treatment of the skin and / or hair, in particular in cosmetic cleansing agents.

DE 102014203267A1 describes cleaning preparations which contain at least 95% of ingredients of natural origin.

However, these compositions were not always completely satisfactory with regard to the general skincare performance.

The object on which the invention is based is to provide a cosmetic cleaning agent produced in a resource-saving and environmentally friendly manner and the performance of which, which does not affect the cleaning performance, is improved.

The objective on which the invention is based is achieved by a first object of the invention which is a cosmetic composition for cleaning and caring for keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing:

a) at least one C _8-30 alkyl sulphate,

b) at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside and

c) trimethylglycine.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention have the advantage that the hair treated with them can be disentangled very easily in the dry and wet state, and that they exhibit high elasticity and softness after drying.

In addition, it has been possible to completely dispense with conventional raw materials for cosmetic cleaning agents of synthetic origin or based on mineral oil in the manufacture of the compositions according to the invention.

The cosmetic cleansing agents according to the invention contain, as the first essential constituent, at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphate as washing surfactant.

_{C 8} -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphates have been found to form a stable, fine-pored foam even in small amounts, and to be particularly well tolerated by the skin.

C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ alkyl sulphates are preferred and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ alkyl sulphates are particularly preferred, since these anionic surfactants, also called "cocosulphates", are obtained from natural coconut oil and are particularly suitable as ingredients in accordance with the invention. to ECOCERT for use in the compositions according to the invention.

Most preferred are alkali metal salts such as potassium or sodium cocosulphate salts. Sodium cocosulfate (SCS) is particularly preferred.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain (relative to their total weight) preferably 1.0 to 15% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 10% by weight and in particular 2 to 7.5% by weight of 'at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphate.

A preferred embodiment is characterized in that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain a C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ alkyl sulphate, more preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ alkyl sulphate, the counterion being a cosmetically acceptable cation, preferably sodium, the C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkylsulfate being in particular sodium cocosulfate (SCS).

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside as the second essential constituent.

It has been discovered that the combination of C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulphates with alkyl (oligo) glycosides makes it possible to provide extremely gentle and skin-friendly compositions for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular for cleaning the hair, and which also exhibit excellent foam amounts and properties even when used in small amounts.

Alkyl (oligo) glycosides suitable for the purposes of the present invention are compounds of the general formula RO- [G] _x , in which R represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x represents numbers between 1 and 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods in preparative organic chemistry.

Alkyl- and alkenyloligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses and ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl- and alkenyloligoglycosides are therefore alkyl- and alkenyloligoglycosides.

The index x in the general formula RO- [G] _x indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), that is to say the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and represents a number between 1 and 10. Then that x in the individual molecule must always be an integer and above all can take the values x = 1 to 6, the value x for a specific alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined mathematical variable generally representing a fractional number. Preferred are alkyl- and alkenyloligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization x of 1.1 to 3.

From the point of view of application, preferred are alkyl- and alkenyloligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7, in particular is between 1.2 and 1.4.

The alkyl and alkenyl radicals R can be derived from primary alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms such as caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, alcohol cetyl, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, alcohol erucyl and brassidyl alcohol and their industrial mixtures.

Preferred are alkyloligoglucosides in which R represents C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl radicals and which exhibit a degree of oligomerization of 1 to 3.

Particularly preferred are the alkyloligoglucosides known under the INCI name Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside and / or Coco Glucoside.

The alkyloligoglycosides can be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.10 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and particularly preferably from 1 to 7. , 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain alkyl (oligo) glycosides of formula RO- [G] _X , in which R represents an alkyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a radical sugar having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x (degree of oligomerization) represents a number from 1 to 10, preferably alkyl (oligo) glucosides with a C _{8 -C 18} alkyl radical and a degree of oligomerization of 1 to 3, in particular Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside and / or Coco Glucoside.

For optimum product properties, it is advantageous that the anionic surfactant a) is present in a certain weight ratio relative to the alkyl (oligo) glycoside / alkyl (oligo) glycosides. A weight ratio between the C _8-30 alkyl sulphate (s) a) and the alkyl (oligo) glycoside (s) b) of 3: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 2.5: 1 to 1: 1 and in particular 2: 1 to 1: 1 has been found to be optimal.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are consequently characterized in that the weight ratio between the C _8-30 alkyl sulphate (s) and the alkyl (oligo) glycoside (s) b) is 3: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 2.5: 1 to 1: 1 and in particular 2: 1 to 1: 1.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain - relative to their total weight -

- 1.00 to 15% by weight of at least one C _8-30 alkyl sulphate,

- 0.10 to 15% by weight of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside,

- 0.01 to 5% by weight of trimethylglycine.

In combination with the surfactants a) and b), trimethylglycine has a foam stabilizing and irritation reducing effect, and allows the amount of surfactant to be reduced while retaining good amounts and foam properties.

In addition, trimethylglycine is known as a moisturizing active ingredient in cosmetic agents and also serves as a hair conditioning component in compositions according to the invention - in particular as an active ingredient strengthening hair fibers.

Trimethylglycine is used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are preferably provided in an aqueous base. This preferably means a water content of at least 70% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight and particularly preferably at least 80% by weight (based on the total weight of the compositions cosmetics).

Other sparingly soluble or insoluble ingredients can be added to the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, in the aqueous phase, without having to use alkoxylated compounds or polymeric stabilizers for their solubilization and / or stabilization.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are substantially free from alkoxylated compounds.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are substantially free from polymer stabilizers, in particular free from acrylic-based polymers.

In the context of the present invention, the term “substantially free” is understood to mean a maximum content of alkoxylated compounds and / or of acrylic-based polymers of 0.01% by weight (relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions), which may be contained as an impurity or by-product in the commercial products used.

Particularly preferably, the compositions according to the invention do not contain any alkoxylated compound and / or acrylic-based polymer.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain other surfactants in addition to the C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulfate (s) and to the alkyl (oligo) glycoside (s). However, the total amount of detergent surfactants should preferably not exceed 15% by weight, more preferably 14% by weight and in particular 12.5% by weight (based on the total weight of the compositions), because otherwise the balance between cleansing, skin softness, and foaming and skincare properties may be altered.

In a preferred embodiment, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants are used as cosurfactants in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

Amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants suitable for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, one or more compounds of formulas (1) to (7) below. In these formulas, the radical R preferably represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical with a linear or branched chain, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, having 7 to 23 carbon atoms (formulas (1) and (2)) or it represents a radical Straight or branched chain alkyl or alkenyl, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated having 8 to 24 carbon atoms (formulas (3) to (7)):

(1)

(2)

(3)

(4)

(5)

(6)

(7)

Preferred amphoteric surfactants of formulas (1) to (7) mentioned above contain, as radical R, predominantly a straight or branched, saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 20, moreover preferred 8 to 18 and in particular 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

Preference is also given to amphoteric surfactants in which the radical R is derived from coconut fat.

Examples of particularly preferred amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants are N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate or 2- alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, the alkyl or acyl groups each having preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate, cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, cocoamidopropyl betaine or / coco, in particular cocoamidopropyl betaine.

The amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants can be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably of 0.5 to 7.5% by weight and of particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one zwitterionic surfactant chosen from the group consisting of N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl glycinate -N, N-dimethylammonium and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, the alkyl or acyl groups preferably having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate, cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate , cocoamidopropyl betaine and / or coconut betaine, in particular cocoamidopropyl betaine, in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

In order to increase the hair care properties, it may be advantageous for the cosmetic compositions according to the invention to additionally contain at least one active hair conditioning principle, which can preferably be obtained from natural sources.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one active principle improving the hydration of the skin or the scalp and / or the structure of the hair fiber, which is preferably chosen from polyols (that is to say (ie polyalcohols or physiologically compatible polyhydroxy compounds) having 2 to 20 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are straight chain, branched or cyclic alkanols having 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and / or diglycerol, glycols such as polyethylene glycols and / or polypropylene glycols as well as sugar alcohols (alditols), sugars or sugar derivatives such as mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol, xylitol, fructose, glucose, lactose, galactose and / or sucrose.

_{C 2} -C ₆ polyols are particularly preferred, preferably alditols such as mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol and / or xylitol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and / or diglycerol, particularly preferably 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and / or diglycerol, and glycerol is particularly preferred.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one active principle improving the hydration of the skin or the scalp and / or the structure of the hair fiber - preferably glycerol - preferably in a proportion by weight of 0 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one C ₂ -C ₆ polyol, preferably alditols such as mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol and / or xylitol , 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and / or diglycerol, particularly preferably 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and / or diglycerol, particularly preferably glycerol, in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can also comprise other active principles which support or enhance their cleaning and care properties.

Preferred optional active ingredients can be selected, for example, from the group consisting of

- cationic polymers, preferably cationic polymers of natural origin, and / or

- oils and / or butters, preferably oils and / or natural (vegetable) butters, and / or

- vitamins and / or

- plant extracts and / or

- protein hydrolysates and / or

- anti-dandruff agents.

By appropriate cationic polymers of natural origin within the meaning of the present invention is meant for example:

- quaternized cellulose derivatives, commercially available under the names Celquat® and Polymer JR®,

- cationic starch derivatives, such as those commercially available under the name Mirustyle ^® ,

- hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example cationic polymers sold under the trade name SoftCat ^® ,

- cationic alkylpolyglycosides,

- cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

- cationic guar derivatives, in particular the products marketed under the trade names Cosmedia ^® guar N-Hance ^® and Jaguar ^® .

- cationic cassia and / or inulin derivatives such as the cationic polymers known under the INCI names Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin.

Preferred are quaternized cellulose polymers, cationic hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives and / or cationic guar derivatives.

Particularly preferred are the cationic polymers known under the INCI names Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-67 and / or Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Corn Starch; Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is particularly preferred.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain cationic polymers, preferably Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 2% by weight, more preferably of 0.02 to 1.5% by weight. weight and in particular from 0.03 to 1% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “natural” oils is preferably understood to mean a vegetable oil, particularly preferably a cold-pressed vegetable oil.

By "cold pressed oil" is meant an oil obtained by cold pressing and / or cold extraction of the respective plant (or the respective plant part) at a temperature of 40 ° C or less, preferably of 35 ° C or less and particularly preferably 30 ° C or less.

The oils which can be obtained by cold pressing or cold extraction and which are suitable for use in the agents according to the invention are preferably triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides such as oil of amaranth seeds, l apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, bamboo oil, baobab oil, canola oil, safflower, pomegranate seed oil, rosehip oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, currant oil, blackcurrant oil, jojoba oil, oil coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, macadamia nut oil, mallow oil, almond oil (sweet), mango oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, Brazil nut oil, passion fruit oil, palm kernel oil, peach kernel oil, rambutan oil, bran oil, rice, castor oil, safflower oil, sasanqua oil, sesame oil, hu Soybean, Sunflower Oil, Tea Tree Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Tsubaki Oil, Walnut Oil, Seed Oil wheat and / or cuckoo oil.

The cold-pressed or cold-extracted oil is preferably present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in dispersed form, the size of the droplets of the dispersed oil being from 0.1 to 500 nm, preferably from 0.5. at 300 nm.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain natural oils - preferably cold pressed natural oils - preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 2% by weight, more preferably of 0.025 to 1.5% by weight. weight and in particular from 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

By suitable vegetable butters is preferably meant shea butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, apricot kernel butter, mafura butter, bacuri butter, cocoa butter. tucuma, ucuuba butter and / or cupuacu butter. Shea butter is particularly preferred.

The vegetable butters can be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions. Proportions by weight of 0.025 to 4% by weight are more preferred, 0.05 to 2% by weight are particularly preferred.

The term “appropriate vitamins” is preferably understood to mean the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, as well as their derivatives:

* Vitamin A: The group of substances called vitamins A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). Β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As a component of vitamin A, there may be mentioned, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde as well as vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate.

* Vitamin B: belong among others to the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex,

° vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)

° vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

° vitamin B ₃ . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often presented under this name.

° vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). In this group, panthenol is preferably used. The panthenol derivatives which can be used are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and also the cationically derived panthenols. As examples of said derivatives, mention may be made of panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.

° vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

* Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): may be preferred to use as an ester of palmitic acid, glucosides or phosphates. It may also be preferred to use it in combination with tocopherols.

* Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol).

* Vitamin F: By "vitamin F" we generally mean essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

* Vitamin H: The term “vitamin H” designates the acid compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazol-4-valeric, however commonly called “biotin”.

Particularly preferred are vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, E and H. Particularly preferred are nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol; nicotinamide and / or panthenol are particularly preferred.

The proportion by weight of the vitamin (s), of the derivative (s) of vitamin and / or of the precursor (s) of vitamins in the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning compositions according to the invention is preferably 0.005 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.006 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.008 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.50% by weight.

Suitable plant extracts include extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers , almond, aloe vera, pine needle, chestnut, date palm, cinnamon, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, bugrane, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root, and Ayurvedic plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala), gram such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, different varieties of millet (common millet, finger millet or Italian foxtail for example), cane sugar, ryegrass, black grass, Arrhenatherum elatius, bentgrass, meadow fescue, molinia, bamboo, cotton grass, species of the genus Pennisetum, species of the genus Andropogonodeae ( Imperata Cylindrica also called Red Baron or straw hut), Cenchrus Ciliaris, spartines, houndstooth quackgrass, species of the genus Eragrostis, species of the genus Cymbopogon (lemongrass), Oryzeae (rice), species of the genus Zizania ( wild rice), ammophiles, species of the genus Helictotrichon, swells, brize, bluegrass, species of the genus Elimus and coneflowers, in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (Mc Gregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), all types of algae, coral mosses and kelp (such as Macrocystis pyrifera extract), all types of wine and Litchie chinensis pericarp.

Suitable extracts can be obtained from the fruits, seeds, flowers, roots, leaves and / or bark of the above-mentioned plants or from whole plants (algae, kelp).

Plant extracts can be used according to the invention either in a pure form or in a diluted form. When used in diluted form, they generally contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance as well as, as solvent, the extractant or the mixture of extractants used to obtain them. Water and / or alcohols are generally suitable extractants.

The plant extract or extracts can be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, preferably in total amounts ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.75% by weight and by weight. in particular from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, the amounts indicated relating to the weight of the cosmetic compositions.

The term “suitable protein hydrolysates” is understood to mean mixtures of products which can be obtained by degradation by acid, alkaline or enzymatic catalysis of proteins.

Protein hydrolysates of plant, animal and / or marine origin can be used.

Examples of protein hydrolysates of animal origin are elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be in the form of salts. Such products are for example sold under the trade names Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).

Preferred are protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin, for example hydrolysates of soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat. Such products are for example available under the trade names Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda).

It is also possible to use hydrolysates of cationic proteins, the basic protein hydrolyzate possibly being of animal origin, for example obtained from collagen, milk or keratin, of plant origin, for example obtained from wheat, corn. , rice, potato, soya or almonds, of marine origin, for example derived from fish or algae collagen, or derived from protein hydrolysates derived from biotechnologies. The protein hydrolysates underlying the cationic derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical hydrolysis, in particular alkaline or acidic, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or by a combination of the two types of hydrolysis. Protein hydrolysis typically results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of from about 100 daltons to several thousand daltons. Preferred are cationic protein hydrolysates in which the basic protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5,000 daltons. In addition, the term “quaternary amino acids and their mixtures” is understood to mean hydrolysates of cationic proteins. Quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as the halides of N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro -n-propyl) -ammonium. In addition, it is also possible to transform the hydrolysates of cationic proteins into derivatives. Classic examples of hydrolysates and cationic protein derivatives are the products available commercially and known under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydroxypropyl Hydroxypropyl Hair Keratin, Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl / myristyl Ether HCl, hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropy l Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium Soy-79- Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium Soyote-79- 79- Hydrolyote Protein 79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

The proportion by weight of the protein hydrolyzate (s) relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 3% by weight and in particular of 0.05 to 2% by weight.

For the purposes of the present invention, suitable anti-dandruff agents are piroctones, olamine, climbazole, zinc, pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulphide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts, extracts of arnica and / or propanediol caprylate.

It is preferred to use in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention natural anti-dandruff active ingredients such as the plant extracts mentioned above and / or anti-dandruff active ingredients available from natural sources such as propanediol caprylate.

The proportion by weight of anti-dandruff agents in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 4% by weight and particularly preferably from 0 0.05 to 3% by weight.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the proportion by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of the ingredients of the cosmetic composition which are substantially of natural origin is greater than or equal to 90% by weight, particularly preferably is equal to 92.5% by weight and in particular is greater than or equal to 95% by weight. An ingredient conforming to ISO 16128 or COSMOS should be considered as "predominantly of natural origin".

Other active ingredients, adjuvants and additives which may preferably be contained in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are, for example:

- the perfumes,

- UV filters,

- cyclodextrins,

- dyes (natural) to color the agent,

- active ingredients such as bisabolol and / or allantoin,

- chelating agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

- ceramides. By ceramides is meant N-acylsphingosine (sphingosine fatty acid amides) or synthetic analogues of these lipids (called pseudo-ceramides),

- antioxidants,

- preservatives, such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid,

- pH adjusting agents such as citric acid and / or lactic acid,

- viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).

A second object of the invention is the use, in particular in the form of a shampoo, of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for cleaning and caring for human hair.

With regard to other preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been said about the compositions according to the invention applies.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the object of the present invention without limiting it thereto.

Examples:

The following cosmetic compositions according to the invention were prepared (the amounts indicated are expressed in [% by weight]):

1 2 3 Sodium Coco Sulfate 1.0 - 15.0 2.0 - 7.5 5.0 APG 0.1 - 15.0 Coconut Glucoside 1.0 - 7.5 2.7 Trimethylglycine 0.01 - 5.0 0.1 - 3.0 1.0 Amphoteric surfactant 0.1 - 10.0 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.0 - 5.0 2.2 Glycerol 0.01 - 10.0 0.1 - 5.0 2 Cationic polymer 0.01 - 2.0 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.03 - 1.0 0.05 Cold pressed natural oil 0.01 - 2.0 Almond oil 0.05 - 1.0 0.1 Shea Butter 0.05 - 3.0 Citric acid 0.1 - 0.5 0.1 - 0.5 0.4 Sodium chloride 0 - 0.5 0 - 0.5 0.8 Water Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 pH 4.5 - 5.0 4.5 - 5.0 4.8 ± 0.2

A reference shampoo was prepared, comprising (in [% by weight):

- 7.5% by weight of coconut sulphate,

- 7.5% by weight of coconut glucoside,

- 0.3% by weight of Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride,

- small quantities

° citric acid

° sodium chloride,

° sodium benzoate

- water (complement up to 100)

Composition 3 according to the invention and the reference composition were subjected to a half-face test, in which it was observed that the hair treated with composition 3 can be better disentangled in the wet and dry state and exhibit more of softness, suppleness and elasticity.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition for cleaning and caring for keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing:
a) at least one C _8-30 alkyl sulphate,
b) at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside and
c) trimethylglycine. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 containing (relative to the total weight of the composition)
- 1.00 to 15% by weight of at least one C _8-30 alkyl sulphate,
- 0.10 to 15% by weight of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside,
- 0.01 to 5% by weight of trimethylglycine. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is substantially free from alkoxylated compounds. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio between the C _8-30 alkyl sulphate (s) a) and the alkyl (oligo) glycoside (s) b) is 3: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 2.5: 1 to 1: 1 and in particular 2: 1 to 1: 1. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing a C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ alkyl sulphate, more preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ alkyl sulphate, the counterion being a cosmetically acceptable cation, preferably sodium, the C _8-30 alkylsulfate being in particular sodium cocosulfate (CSC). Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing alkyl (oligo) glycosides of formula RO- [G] _X , in which R represents an alkyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x (degree of oligomerization) represents a number from 1 to 10, preferably containing alkyl (oligo) glucosides having a C _{8 -C 18} alkyl radical and a degree of oligomerization of 1 to 3, in in particular Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside and / or Coco Glucoside. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one C ₂ -C ₆ polyol, preferably alditols such as mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol and / or xylitol, 1,2 -propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and / or diglycerol, particularly preferably 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and / or diglycerol, particularly preferably glycerol, in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one zwitterionic surfactant chosen from the group consisting of N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N- glycinate. dimethylammonium and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, the alkyl or acyl groups preferably having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably containing cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate, cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, betaine cocoamidopropyl and / or coconut betaine, in particular cocoamidopropyl betaine, in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the proportion by weight of ingredients of natural origin (relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition) is greater than or equal to 90% by weight, preferably is greater than or equal 92.5% by weight and in particular is greater than or equal to 95% by weight. Use, in particular in the form of a shampoo, of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 9 for cleaning or caring for human hair.