GB2422107A - Skin whitening composition - Google Patents

Skin whitening composition Download PDF

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Publication number
GB2422107A
GB2422107A GB0525990A GB0525990A GB2422107A GB 2422107 A GB2422107 A GB 2422107A GB 0525990 A GB0525990 A GB 0525990A GB 0525990 A GB0525990 A GB 0525990A GB 2422107 A GB2422107 A GB 2422107A
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Prior art keywords
composition
weight
skin
stage
cribosum
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GB2422107B (en
GB0525990D0 (en
Inventor
Stephen Peter Barton
Stewart Paul Long
Marie Annette Godfrey
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Boots Co PLC
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Boots Co PLC
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • A61K8/9711Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
    • A61K8/975
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

A cosmetic composition comprising a synergistic mixture of two or more skin whitening agents selected from the group consisting of: [a] undecylenoyl phenylalanine; [b] agarum cribosum; and [c] actinidia chinesis. Also disclosed is the use of the composition to lighten skin colour, treat age spots and tone skin colour.

Description

I
Title - smetic Compositions This invention relates to cosmetic compositions, and in particular to cosmetic compositions for topical application to improve the appearance of the skin.
As skin ages, it undergoes changes which affect its appearance. For example, the skin can lose its tone and develop differently pigmented areas.
The development of unsightly darkened areas on the skin occurs for a number of reasons. For example, as the skin ages, there is an increasing tendency to develop age spots or senile lentigines. These are commonly seen as flat brown spots on the backs of the hands or temples. It is thought that these spots are associated with areas of chronic sun damage. These gradually develop over time. Other reasons for undesired darkened pigmentation on the skin may include birthmarlcs, freckles, blemishes and discoloured scarring. Additionally, some consumers in the East Asian market may find darker pigmented skin undesirable and accordingly there is a large market for products that are able to lighten natural skin tone and increase the radiance and brightness of skin.
Accordingly, it is desired to provide an improved skincare product for topical application which may be used to improve or enhance the appearance of the skin, Particularly to reduce or inhibit the formation of darkened skin pigmentation.
A number of ingredients, for example, hydroquinone arbutin, one of the active components of bearberry (Arctostaphy(os uva-ursi) extract, liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) extract and it's active components, ascorbic acid and derivatives and kojic acid are amongst ingredients that have been shown or are reputed to have skin lightening activity. However, many existing skin whitening actives do not have a good safety profile or are not effective enough or have poor efficacy at levels safe for topical application to the skin.
Therefore, there is a need for improvements in terms of safe and effective * * a.. * SIS * I * * a * a * a a S S * S * . * * . a I I * * S S. *5 I * a.. . compositions for application to the skin for reducing or inhibiting undesired skin pigmentation, such as age spots. It is desired to provide a skincare composition which is effective to reduce undesired areas of darkened skin pigmentation, but which does not irritate the skin.
It has now been found that when certain combinations of skin whitening agents are combined in a composition for topical application, a synergistic effect for improving or enhancing the appearance of the skin occurs, particularly in treating undesired darkened pigmentation.
Accordingly, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a synergistic mixture of two or more skin whitening agents selected from the group consisting of: a) Undecylenoyl phenylalanine; b) Agarum cribosum; and c) Actinidia chiner,sjs.
A cosmetic composition comprising the above synergistic mixture has a number of advantageous properties. For example, the compositions have been found to have valuable effects in treating undesired skin pigmentation, particularly in lightening areas of darkened skin. They may also be useful to reduce or inhibit the formation of darkened skin pigmentation. The compositions are also useful to improve or enhance the appearance of skin, for example skin tone and colour. Furthermore, the compositions are nonirritating and are well tolerated by the skin. In addition, there is not competitive activity between the different actives in reducing undesired pigmentation which would reduce the synergistic effect. The synergistic effect also allows significantly less total skin whitening agent to be employed in the formulations compared to standard quantities of whitening agent. The manufacturers recommended dosages of the materials are significantly higher than the levels used which have shown synergistic action.
Accordingly, it is thus easier to formulate into a cosmetically acceptable * . Se. a St. * S I S S I S * I I I a a S I. a a S a I
I I S IS S IS
S. S 5 IS. S composition for the Consumer to provide a composition with pleasant skin feel which may be easily applied and spread evenly over the skin.
The skin whitening agents useful in the present invention are: a) Undecylenoyi phenylalanine an aminoacid derivative, which is most preferably used in the form of the product sold under the trade name SEPIWHITE by S.E.P.p.l.C 75 Quai d'Orsay, 75321 Paris cedex 07, France.
b) Agarum cribosum, an algae extract, which is most preferably used in the form of the product sold under the trade name LIGHTSKIN by SILAB of BP213 - 19108 Brive, Cedex, France; and c) Actinidia chinensis, a plant extract, which is most preferably used in the form of the product sold under the trade name SYNERLIGHT by Gattefossé (UK) Limited, Arc House, Terrace Road South, Binfield, Bracknell, UK [The SYNERLIGHT product comprises Actinidia chinensis extract (59.6% w/w) in admixture with inter a/ia Sophora angustifolia root extract (0.9% w/w)J; The above ingredients are further defined in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th Ed, 2004. In a preferred aspect of the invention Actinjdia chinensis is combined with Sophora angustifolia, more preferably in a ratio of 30:1 to 10:1 parts by weight, especially 50:1 to 80:1 parts by weight, particularly about 65:1. Accordingly, where reference is made herein to Actinidia chinensis, this also includes the optional presence of Sophora angustifolia.
In one embodiment, compositions may comprise two skin whitening agents selected from Undecylenoyl phenylalanine Agarum cribosum and Actinidja chinensis. In another embodiment, compositions comprise the combination of Undecylenoyl phenylalanine Agarum cribosum and Actinidia chinensis.
* * a.. * *s.
* . a S S. . * a S S * a S a. * a S. . a * *. a *.
S. S S **fr * Preferably, Undecylenoyi phenylalanine is combined with Agarum cribosum or Actinidia chinensis. Preferably, Agarum cribosum is combined with Undecylenoyl phenylalanine or Actinidia chinensis. Preferably, Actinidia chinensis is combined with Undecylenoyl phenylalanine or Agarum cribosum.
In preferred compositions the total concentration of the skin whitening agents used in accordance with the present invention is at least 0.01% by weight, more preferably at least 0.02% by weight and most preferably at least 0.05% by weight. In further preferred compositions, the total concentration of skin whitening agents according to the present invention is less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 4% by weight, most preferably less than 2% by weight and especially less than 2.5% by weight. The total concentration of skin whitening agents according to the present invention may therefore fall in the range from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 4% by weight, most preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight and especially from 0.05 to 2% by weight.
Preferred compositions comprise the skin whitening agents according to the present invention in individual concentrations from 0.01 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 1.0% by weight, most preferably from 0.05 to 1.0% by weight and especially 0.05-0.5% by weight of the composition. For example, Undecylenoyl phenylalanine may be present in a concentration of from 0.01 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.02 tol % by weight, most preferably from 0.05 to 1.0% by weight and especially from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight of the composition; Agarum cribosum may be present in a concentration of from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 tol% by weight, most Preferably from 0.4 to 1.0% by weight and especially 0.40.6% by weight of the composition; Actinidia chinensis may be present in a concentration of from 0.01 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 1 % by weight, most preferably from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight and especially o. 1- 0.5% by weight of the composition.
* S 555 * *5S * S S S * S S * S S S * S S S* S I S I I S a S ** I 55 S. S 5.11 5 Preferred synergistic combinations of skin whitening agents are: a) Undecylenoyl phenylalanine and Agaruni cribosum; b) Undecylenoyl phenylalanine and Actinidia chinensis: C) Agarum cribosum and Actinidia chinensis.
In such preferred compositions the ratio of Undecylenoyl phenylalanine to Agarum cribosum may be in the range 1:1 to 1:20 parts by weight, preferably 1:2 to 1:10 parts by weight, most preferably 1:4 to 1:10 parts by weight and especially 1:3 to 1:7 parts by weight, such as 1:5 parts by weight. Preferably, the ratio of Undecylenoyl phenylalanine to Actinidia chinensis is in the range 1:20 to 1:2 parts by weight, more preferably 1:10 to 1:2 parts by weight and most preferably 1:10 to 1:4 parts by weight, such as 1:2 parts by weight.
Preferably the ratio of Agarum cribosum to Actinidia chinensis is in the range 10:1 to 1:10 parts by weight, including 10:1 to 1:1 parts by weight, preferably 5:1 to 1:5 parts by weight, most preferably 2:1 to 1:2 parts by weight, such as 1:1 parts by weight. Preferred percentages of such preferred compositions are given in the last preceding paragraph but one.
Especially preferred combinations are: a) Undecylenoyi phenylalanine and Agarum cribosum; b) Agarum cribosum and Actinidia chinensis.
Suitable cosmetic compositions into which the synergistic mixture of the present invention may be incorporated may include lipsticks, foundations, lip balms, face creams, eye creams, hand creams, face washes, body washes, shower gels, bath foams, mousses, foaming cleansers, toner cleansers, aftersuns, moisturisers and face masks. Suitable formulation types comprise aqueous or oily solutions or dispersions or emulsions or a gels, including creams, serums, pastes, lotions, milks, ointments, salves, sticks, spray, roll- on, powders, aqueous gels, suspension dispersions and emulsions, be they S * .** S 555 * S I 5 * S I * * a * * * SS I * * S S S S * SI S 5.
S* S * S.. S w/o, olw, w/o/w or o/w/o. Preferably, any solvent system comprises water.
Further components may be added to the composition as is well-known to those skilled in the art.
Suitable oils for the oil phase of the oily dispersions and the oil phase of the water-in-oil and oil-in-water emulsions of the present invention may comprise
for example:
a) hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin or mineral oils; b) waxes such as beeswax or paraffin wax; c) natural oils such as sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil, shea butter or jojoba oil; d) silicone oils such as dimethicone, cyclomethicone or cetyldimethicone; e) fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate; f) fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol; or g) mixtures thereof, for example, the blend of waxes available commercially under the trade name Cutina (Henkel).
The emulsifiers used may be any emulsifiers known in the art for use in water-in-oil or Oil-in-water emulsions. It has been found that Particularly effective water-in-oil and Oil-in-water sunscreen compositions can be prepared by using an emulsifier or mixture of emulsifiers selected from known cosmetically acceptable emulsifiers which include: a) sesquioleates such as sorbitan sesquioleate, available commercially for example under the trade name Arlacel 83 (Id), or polygIyceryj2 sesquioleate; b) ethoxylated esters of derivatives of natural oils such as the polyethoxylated ester of hydrogenated castor oil available commercially for example under the trade name Arlacel 989 (ICI); c) silicone emulsifiers such as silicone polyols available commercially for example under the trade name ABIL WSO8 (Th. Goldschmidt AG); d) anionic emulsifiers such as fatty acid soaps e.g. potassium stearate * S *I5 S Oil * S S S * S S * S U * * S S S. S 5 * S S * I S Si S 55 is S 5 I.e S and fatty acid sulphates e.g. sodium cetostearyl sulphate available commercially under the trade name Dehydag (Henkel); e) ethoxylated fatty alcohols, for example the emulsifiers available commercially under the trade name Brij (id); f) sorbitan esters, for example the emulsifiers available commercially under the trade name Span (iCl); g) ethoxylated sorbitan esters, for example the emulsifiers available Commercially under the trade name Tween (lCI); h) ethoxylated fatty acid esters such as ethoxylated stearates, for example the emulsifiers available commercially under the trade name Myrj (Id); i) ethoxylated mono-, di-, and tri-glycerides, for example the emulsifiers available commercially under the trade name Labrafil (Alfa Chem.); j) flofl-iofljc self-emulsifying waxes, for example the wax available COmmercially under the trade name Polawax(Croda); k) ethoxylated fatty acids, for example, the emulsifjers available commercially under the trade name Tefose (Alfa Chem.); or I) mixtures thereof.
Additional skincare actives known to have benefit on the skin may also be added. Examples include anti-acne actives eg salicylic acid, vitamins eg Vitamin A or retinol, anti-wrinkle or anti-ageing actives such as peptides and promoters of collagen and/or elastin production, hydroxy acids, anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatories, anti-microbials eg triclosan, other skin-lightening actives such as mulberry or ascorbic acid derivatives, anti-fungals, skin Conditioners eg panthenol, organic or inorganic sunscreens eg butyl and titanium dioxide, plant extracts and the active principals from these, skin identical lipids such as Ceraniides, moisturisers and other materials to promote the repair of the skin barrier such as hyaluronic acid and other suitable materials that are known to those skilled in the art.
* a.1. a *ss * * a S S a S S S I S S a I S. I * a. S S S * 55 a ** a * *5I a Preservatives may be added to the composition, such as 2-bromo-2nitropropanel,3-diol (bronopol, which is available commercially under the trade name Myacjcje RTM), benzyi alcohol, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, phenoxy ethanol, propyl paraben, sodium methyl paraben, sodium ethyl paraben, sodium dehycJroaceta Polyhexamethylenebigufl hydrochloride isothiazolone and sodium propyl paraben, suitably in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition.
Thickeners viscosity modifying agents and/or gelling agents may be added to the composition, such as acrylic acid polymers e.g. available commercially under the trade name Carbopol (B.F. Goodrich) or modified celluloses e.g. hydroxyethylcellulose available commercially under the trade name Natrosol (Hercules) or hydroxypropyImethy cellulose, amine oxides, block polymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide (for example, those available from BASF Wyandotte under the trade name "Pluronic" RTM), PVM, MA, or a decadiene crosspojymer (available under the trade name Stabilez 60), ethoxylated fatty alcohols, salt (NaCl), phthaljc acid amide, polyvinyl alcohols, fatty alcohols and alkyl galactomanna available under the trade name N-Hance from Hercules, suitably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight of the composition.
Sequestering agents may be added to the composition, such as ethylenedjamine tetraacetic acid and salts thereof, suitably in an amount of from about 0.005% to about 0.5% by weight of the composition.
The composition may also include waxes such as cocoa butter, suitably in an amount of from about 1 % to about 99% by weight of the composition The composition may also comprise suitable cosmetically acceptable diluents, carriers and/or propellants such as dimethyl ether.
* I *** * Ia.
* . I a I I I * a, S * a I SS I a I I S I * I. I II II S *,. I The composition may also include pearlising agents such as stearic monoethanolamide, suitably in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition Perfumes may be added suitably in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of the composition as may water soluble dyes such as tartrazine, suitably in an amount of from about a trace amount (such as I x 1 0- %) to about 0.1 % by weight of the composition.
The composition may also include pH adjusting agents such as sodium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanol, triethanolamine, suitably in an amount of from about 0.01 % to about 10% by weight of the composition.
The composition may be buffered by means well known in the art, for example by use of buffer systems comprising succinic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and acceptable salts thereof, phosphoric acid, mono- or disodjum phosphate and sodium carbonate. Suitably, the composition may have a pH between about 3 and about 10, preferably between about 4 and about 8.
Surfactants may be included, such as cosmetically acceptable salts of alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl and alkylamidoalkyl betaines, ethoxylated alcohols, polyethylene glycol carboxylates, acceptable salts of alkyl sulphates (such as ammonium lauryl sulphate), acceptable salts of alkyl ether sulphates (such as ammonium laureth sulphate or sodium laureth sulphate), sulphosuccinates (such as disodium laureth sUlphosuccinate), amphoacetates and amphodiacetates (such as cocoamphodiacetate) alkylpolyglucoside and alcohol sulphonates The compositions of the present invention may additionally comprise other components which will be well known to those skilled in the art. These include, for example, emollients such as isopropyl myristate or triglycerides of fatty acids eg lauric triglyceride or capric/caprylic triglyceride, such as the tri- glyceride available Commercially under the trade name Miglyol 810 (Huls * S tee * Ce.
* a a S * a a o * * * * S a SI I * a a a a a * ** a a.
C. S a a.. S UK); moisturisers such as D-panthenoI humectants such as glycerin or 1,3- butylene glycol; antioxidants such as DL-a-tocopheryl acetate or butylateci emulsion stabilising salts such as sodium chloride, sodium citrate or magnesium sulphate; film formers to assist spreading on the surface of the skin such as alkylated polyvinylpyrrolidon e.g. available commercially under the trade name Antaron (GAF) and colourings.
In a further aspect of the present invention, there is provided a skincare method, comprising application to the skin of an animal, particularly a human, subject of a composition according to the present invention. According to a yet further aspect, there is provided the use of a composition according to the present invention to improve or enhance the appearance of the skin of an animal subject, particularly a human. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the compositions may be used to reduce or inhibit the formation of darkened skin pigmentation, especially to lighten skin colour, for example in the treatment of age spots, birthmarks, freckles and the like. In a still further embodiment of the present invention, the compositions may be used to enhance the tone of the skin, Particularly to enhance brightness, tone and radiance of the skin and to even out skin tone and colour.
The invention will now be described in greater detail, by way of illustration only, with reference to the following Examples, in which the ingredients referred to by the trade names SEPI WHITE, LIGHTSKIN and SYNERLITE are as described above.
ample 1 - Anti-aQeing Hand Cream %w/w Aqua to 100 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnama 7.5 C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 6 Glycerin 5.8 Butyl methoxydibenzoylme0 3 a a.* 0 I I I I * a o a u I I I S II I I I a I I S I* S I. I I eI S Butyrospermu parkii 2 Ethylhexyl salicylate 2 C18-36 acid glycol ester 1.5 Glyceryl stearate 1 Cetyl alcohol 1 PEG-i 00 stearate 0.98 Cyclopentasiloxane I Dimethicone 0.9 Polyacrylamide emulsion 2 Cyclohexasijoxane 0.5 Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 Butylene glycol 0. 4 Dimethiconoj 0.5 Acrylates/vinyi isodecanoate crosspolymer 0.12 Palmitoyl pentapeptide..3 0.00015 Sepiwhite 0.10 Lightskin 0.5 Lupinus albus 0.021 Tetrasodjum EDTA 0.05 Preservative q.s Perfume q.s Method Stage 1.
Mix together ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone butyl methoxydjbenzoylmethafle Butyrospermum parkii, ethyihexyl salicylate, C18-36 acid glycol ester, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-i 00 stearate and Sepiwhjte and heat to 70-75 C to melt the waxes.
* a aa. * a a a I * S # * b I * 5 5 5 5) S I S S 55 a a.
a. , *. a Stage 2.
Add acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate copolymer to water and homogenise for 2 minutes. Add glycerin, tetrasodium EDTA and butylene glycol to water phase and heat to 70-75 C.
Stage 3.
Add Stage 1 to stage 2 and homogenise for 2 minutes. Add cyclopentasiloxane cyclohexasiloxane and dimethjconoi and stir. Cool to below 40 C. Add palmitoyl pentapeptide3 Lupinus albus, Lightskin, tocopheryl acetate, preservative and perfume and mix. Add polyacrylamide and mix until uniform.
ExamDle 2 - Intensive anti-aqejnQ treatment %w/w Aqua to 100 Dimethicone 2.9 Glycerin 6.6 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2 Cetyl alcohol 2 Glyceryl stearate I PEG-i 00 stearate 0.98 Butylene glycol 0.75 Polyacrylamide emulsion 1.5 Xanthan Gum 0.1 Dimethiconol 0.13 Palmitoyl pentapeptide3 0. 0003 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 Preservative q.s Synerlight 0.1 Lightskin 0.5 * * lie * ill $ I * S I * I S I I I II I. 4 I S a I 1 4 S4 t 4 II, S Method Stage 1.
Mix together C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-i 00 stearate and heat to 70-75 C to melt the waxes.
Stage 2.
Add tetrasodjum EDTA and butylene glycol to water phase and heat to 7075 C.
Stage 3.
Add Stage I to stage 2 and homogenise for 2 minutes. Add dimethiconol and stir. Cool to below 40 C. Disperse xanthan gum in glycerine and add to bulk with stirring. Add palmitoyl pentapeptide3 Lupinus albus, Lightskjn, Synerlight and preservative and mix. Add polyacrylamide and mix until uniform.
Example 3 - Anti-ageing Firming Day Cream %w/w Aqua to 100 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnama0 7.50 Glycerin 7.00 Cl 2-15 alkyl benzoate 5.00 Dimethjcone 3.50 Butyrospermum parkii 3.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoyjmet 3.00 Ethylhexyl salicylate 2.00 Polyglyceryl-3 methylgiucose distearate 2.00 Cetyl alcohol 1.00 PVP/hexadecene copolymer 1.00 Cyclopentasiloxane 1.00 Polyacrylamide emulsion 1.50 Lightskin 1.00 * I Ì * is.
I I I a a a a I I I I. I I. a * * I I 1 4 I II I a; IS I I ale I Synerlight 1.00 Cyclohexasijoxane 0.50 Dimethiconol 0.50 C18-36 acid glycol ester 0.50 Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproijne 0.50 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.25 Acrylates/vinyj isodecanoate crosspolymer 0.10 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 Haematococcus pluvialis powder 0.03 Potassium hydroxide 0.03 Lupinus albus 0.02 Polyglucuronjc acid 0.0045 Palmitoyl pentapeptjde3 0.00015 Preservative q. s Perfume q.s Method Stage 1 Mix together ethyihexyl methoxycinnam C12- C15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone, butyl methoxydjbenzoyjmethafle Butyrosperrnum parkii, ethyihexyl salicylate, polyg lyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, cetyl alcohol, PVP/hexadecene copolymer, C18-36 acid glycol ester, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline and heat to 70-75 C to melt the waxes. Add acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate copolymer and homogenise for 2 minutes.
Stage 2 Add glycerin, potassium hydroxide, and tetrasodjum EDTA to water and heat to 70-75 C.
*. 1:. S..
S I I I I
I. * * . I I I I SI I. S S.. * Stage 3 Add Stage 1 to stage 2 and homogenise for 2 minutes. Add Cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dimethiconol and stir. Cool to below 40 C.
Stage 4 Add palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Haematococcus pluvialis powder, polyglucuronjc acid, Lightskin, Synerlight, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, preservative and perfume and mix. Add pOlyacrylamide and mix until uniform.
Example 4 Skin Liphteninp Serum %w/w Aqua to 100 Octyldocjecanol 6.00 Dimethicone 1.75 Cyclopentasijoxane 1.30 Sodium polyacrylate 1.20 Glycerin 1.00 Synerlight 1.00 Lightskin 1.00 Cyclohexasiloxane 0.65 Dimethiconol 0.26 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.25 Polysorbate 20 0.20 Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer 0.15 Tetrasodjum EDTA 0.05 Panax ginseng 0.01 Morus alba 0.0025 Preservative q.s Perfume q.s I. * S * S * * S * S * * * S * aS * * * * S * * S S. * * S.. * Method Stage 1 Add aqua to main vessel and add tetrasodium EDTA, Morus alba, Panax ginseng. Mix to disperse. With homogenisation add acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer and mix until smooth. Add glycerin and polysorbate 20 and heat to 70-75 C.
Stage 2 Mix together octyldodecanol cycIopentasiloxa and cylohexasioxan and heat to 70-75 C. Add sodium polyacrylate and homogenise until smooth.
Stage 3 Add stage 2 to stage I with homogenisation and mix for 3 minutes. Add dimethicone and dimethiconol and mix until homogeneous.
Stage 4 Cool to below 40 C. Add Synerlight, Lightskin and all remaining materials and mix until homogeneous.
Example 5- Sun Lotion SPF8 %w/w Aqua to 100 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 8 Butylene glycol 5 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.2 Dimethjcone 2 Polyglyceryl-3 methylgiucose distearate 2 PVP/hexadecene copolymer 1.75 Octyl methoxycinnamate 1.7 Theobroma cacao 0.5 Parfum q.s * * *.. S * S S * * * * * I I S * I *I S * * S * I 5 5 II S. * * SI. 5 Tocopheryl acetate 0.2 Acrylates/vinyi isodecanoate crosspolymer 0.15 Potassium hydroxide 0.034 Tetrasodjum EDTA 0.02 Preservative q.s Sepiwhjte 0.05 Lightskin 0.5 Method Stage 1 The EDTA is dispersed into the water. Using a propellor stirrer, the acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer are added and dispersed and hydrated. Butylene glycol is added and the aqueous phase is heated to 70 C.
Stage 2 The C12-15 alkyl benzoate, butyl methoxydibenzoylrnt0 dimethicone, polyglyceryl3 methytglucose distearate, Sepiwhite, PVP/hexadecene copolymer, octyl methoxycinnamate Theobroma cacao and tocopheryl acetate are mixed and heated to 70 C to melt the waxes.
Stage 3 Using a homogeniser, stage 2 is added to stage I and the bulk is mixed until emulsified and uniform. The emulsion is cooled to below 35 C with stirring and Lightskin added. The remaining materials are added and mixed until uniform.
Example 6- Eve Cream %w/w
Aqua to 100 Butylene glycol 6 Paraffinum liquidum 5 * S * * * * * * : S. * * . S * S * ** S S. * * .5S * Octyl methoxycinnamate 4 Dimethjcone 2 Petrolatum 2 Cetearyl octanoate 1.8 Cetearyl alcohol 1.6 Glyceryl stearate 1.5 Cetyl alcohol 1 Prunus dulcis 1 Glycerin 0.57 Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides citrate 0.5 TOcopheryl acetate 0.5 Bisabolol 0.475 Panthenol 0.45 Sodium phosphate 0.42 PEG-20 stearate 0.4 Isopropyl myristate 0.2 Carbomer 0.15 PEG-12 isostearate 0.125 Allantoin 0.1 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 Lactic acid 0.088 Disodium phosphate 0.083 Potassium hydroxide 0.051 Synerlight 0.5 Sepiwhite 0.1 Preservative q.s Method Stage 1 Into the water, citric acid, EDTA, sodium phosphate, disodium phosphate and lactic acid are added and dispersed. Using a homogeniser, carbomer is S * S a * * a S S : : * * * ** * :.
S. * S..
added and hydrated. The aqueous phase is then heated to 70 C.
Stage 2 The paraffinum liquidum, octyl methoxycjnnamate dimethicone, petrolatum, cetearyi octanoate, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, hydrogenated vegetable glycerides citrate, tocopheryl acetate, PEG-20 stearate, Sepiwhite, isopropyl myristate and PEG-12 isostearate are mixed and heated to 70 C to melt the waxes.
Stage 3 Using a homogeniser, stage 2 is added to stage 1 and this is mixed until emulsified and uniform. The emulsion is then cooled to below 35 C using stirring. The remaining materials, including the Synerlight is then added and mixed until uniform.
Example 7-Eye Cream %w/w
Aqua to 100 Butylene glycol 6 Paraffinum liquidum 5 Octyl methoxycinnamate 4 Dimethicone 2 Petrolatum 2 Cetearyl octanoate 1.8 Cetearyl alcohol 1.6 Glyceryl stearate 1.5 Cetyl alcohol I Prunus dulcis 1 Glycerin 0.57 Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides citrate 0.5 Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 Bisabolol 0.475 * . at. * I..
* . I 4 4 S * * I * * * I I. * * * a * I 4 ** a S. * I.. * Panthenol 0.45 Sodium phosphate 0.42 PEG-20 stearate 0.4 Isopropyl myristate 0.2 Carbomer 0.15 PEG-12 isostearate 0.125 Allantoin 0.1 Tetrasodjum EDTA 0.1 Lactic acid 0. 088 Disodium phosphate 0.083 Potassium hydroxide 0.051 Lightskin 0.5 Sepiwhite 0.1 Preservative q.s Method Stage I Into the water, citric acid, EDTA, sodium phosphate, disodium phosphate and lactic acid are added and dispersed. Using a homogeniser, carbomer is added and hydrated. The aqueous phase is then heated to 70 C. Stage 2 The paraffinum liquidum, octyl methoxycinnamate dimethjcone,
petrolatum, cetearyl octanoate, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, hydrogenated vegetable glycerides citrate, tocopheryl acetate, PEG-20 stearate, Sepiwhite, isopropyl myristate and PEG-12 isostearate are mixed and heated to 70 C to melt the waxes.
Stage 3 Using a homogeniser, stage 2 is added to stage I and this is mixed until emulsified and uniform. The emulsion is then cooled to below 35 C using * tat * * . : : * I. * * . I * S a S a. * **. * stirring. The remaining materials, including the Lightskin are then added and mixed until uniform.
mDle 8 - Eye G& %w/w Aqua to 100 PVPNA copolymer 2 Propylene glycol 2 Carbomer 1 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 1 Panthenol I Sodium hydroxide 0.3 Phenoxyethano 0.2 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 Synerlight 0.5 Lightskin 0.5 Method Stage I The EDTA, Methyldibrorno glutaronjtrile and sodium hydroxide were added to the water and dissolved. PVPNA copolymer and Carbomer were added to the water and mixed using a homogeniser to ensure that the polymers were hydrated.
Stage 2 The remaining materials, including the Synerlight and Lightskin were added individually with stirring until the product was homogenous.
* a *** * L.a * * 4 8 * * S * * I * * * 4 I. * * * S * S I * S I. * S.. * ample 9 - Night Cream %w/w Aqua to 100 Glycerin 5 Paraffinum liquidum 4.5 Dicaprylyl maleate 3 Dimethjcone 3 Petrolatum 3 Paraffin 2.9 Cetyl alcohol 2 Steareth-2 2 Glyceryl stea rate 1.5 Butyrospermum parkii 1.5 Steareth-21 I Cera microcristallina 0.262 Buxus chinensis 0.5 Propylene glycol 0.48 Parfum q. s Hydroxyethylceulo5 0.3 Xanthan gum 0.25 Alcohol denat. 0.08 Sodium citrate 0.08 Lecithin 0.075 BHT 0.05 Sepiwhite 0.5 Synerlight 1.00 Citric acid 0.025 Preservative q.s a a * * S * 5 S a * S S I a S I a aa a a, Method Stage 1 Citric acid and sodium citrate are added to the water and dissolved. The hydroxyethylcejlujose is added and hydrated using a propellor stirrer.
Xanthan gum is pre-dispersed in glycerin and added to the bulk. This is stirred until uniform. The aqueous phase is then heated to 70 C.
Stage 2 The paraffinum liquidum, Sepiwhite dicaprylyl maleate, dimethicone, petrolatum, paraffin, cetyl alcohol, steareth-2, glyceryl stearate, steareth-21, cera microcristallina and BHT are mixed and heated to 70 C to melt the waxes.
Stage 3 Using a homogeniser, stage 2 is added to stage I and this is mixed until emulsified and uniform. The emulsion is then cooled to below 35 C using stirring and Synerlight is added. The remaining materials are then added and mixed until uniform.
Examjle 10 - Anti-aqeing Foundation %w/w Aqua to 100 Butylene glycol 9.8 Cetearyl isononanoate 4.9 Dimethicone 3.2 Glycerin 1.96 Silica 1.9 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 1.67 Paraffinum liquidum 1.67 Petrolatum 1. 67 Hydrogenated coco-glycerides 1.67 a *Ia * I $ * * * a a * a a. $ a * I a * * I * Cetearyl octanoate 1.5 Cetearyl alcohol 1.35 Octyl methoxycinnamate 1.28 Talc I Glyceryl stearate 0.95 PEG-i 00 stearate 0.9 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.6 Lactic acid 0.45 Sodium polyacrylate 0.45 Boron nitride 0.42 Sodium PCA 0.4 Tocopheryl acetate 0.4 PVP/hexadecene copolymer 0.4 PEG-20 stearate 0.33 Glycolic acid 0.2 Sodium stearoyl lactyl ate 0.2 lsopropyl myristate 0.17 Tetrasodjum EDTA 0.1 Xanthan gum 0.1 Citric acid 0.06 Alcohol denat. 0.04 Lecithin 0.037 Preservative q.s Pigments q.s Sep iwhite 0.1 Lightskin 0.5 Method Stage 1 Into the water, citric acid, EDTA and lactic acid are added and dispersed.
Xanthan gum is pre-dispersed in butylene glycol and is added to the bulk.
I' *1* * 4.e
I I I * a I
I III
The aqueous phase is then heated to 70 C.
Stage 2 The cetearyl isononanoate dimethicone silica, PVP/hexadecene copolymer, caprylic/capric triglyceride, paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum, hydrogenated coco-glycerides cetearyl octanoate, Sepiwhite, cetearyl alcohol, octyl methoxycinnama0 talc, glyceryl stearate, PEG-I 00 stearate, butyl methoxydjbenzoylmethane tocopheryl acetate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, isopropyl myristate and lecithin oil phase are mixed and heated to 70 C to melt the waxes.
Stage 3 Using a homogeniser, stage 2 is added to stage I and this is mixed until emulsified and uniform. The emulsion is then cooled to below 35 C using stirring. The remaining materials, including the Lightskin are then added and mixed until uniform.
ExamDle 11 - Anti-aqeinci Foundation %w/w Aqua to 100 Butylene glycol 9.8 Cetearyl isononanoate 4.9 Dimethicone 3.2 Glycerin 1.96 Silica 1.9 Caprylicfcapric triglyceride 1.67 Paraffinum liquidum 1.67 Petrolatum 1. 67 Hydrogenated coco-glycerides 1.67 Cetearyl octanoate 1.5 Cetearyl alcohol 1.35 Octyl methoxycinnamate 1.28
I I
I I
I I I
I. I I I * * * *1 * III * Talc 1 Glyceryl stearate 0.95 PEG-I 00 stearate 0.9 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethafle 0.6 Lactic acid 0.45 Sodium polyacrylate 0.45 Boron nitride 0.42 Sodium PCA 0.4 Tocopheryl acetate 0. 4 PVP/hexadecene copolymer 0.4 PEG-20 stearate 0.33 Glycolic acid 0.2 Sodium stearoyl lactylate 0.2 Isopropyl myristate 0.17 Tetrasodium EDTA 0. 1 Xanthan gum 0.1 Citric acid 0.06 Alcohol denat. 0.04 Lecithin 0.037 Preservative q.s Pigments q.s Synerlight 0.5 Lightskin 0.5 Method Stage I Into the water, citric acid, EDTA and Lactic acid are added and dispersed.
Xanthan gum is pre-dispersed in butylene glycol and is added to the bulk.
The aqueous phase is then heated to 70 C. * S
* I * * * S II.
* S * * S 5 S. * * * S S S * SI * S Se * S ** Stage 2 The cetearyl isononanoate, dimethicone Silica, PVP/hexadecene copolymer, caprylic/capric triglyceride, paraffjnum liquidum, petrolatum, hydrogenated coco-glycerides cetearyl octanoate, cetearyl alcohol, octyl methoxycinnamate talc, glyceryl stearate, PEG-I 00 stearate, butyl tocopheryl acetate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, isopropyl myristate and lecithin oil phase are mixed and heated to 70 C to melt the waxes.
Stage 3 Using a homogeniser stage 2 is added to stage 1 and this is mixed until emulsified and uniform. The emulsion is then cooled to below 35 C using stirring. The remaining materials, including the Synerlight and Lightskin are then added and mixed until uniform.
Example 12 - Anti-aqeinQ Hand Cream %w/w Aqua to 100 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.5 C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 6 Glycerin 5.8 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmf0 3 Butyrospermum parkil 2 Ethyihexyl salicylate 2 CI 836 acid glycol ester 1.5 Glyceryl stearate 1 Cetyl alcohol 1 PEG-I 00 stearate 0.98 Cyclopentasiioxan 1 Dimethicone 0.9 Polyacryfamjde emulsion 2 Cyclohexasiloxan 0.5 *ft* ** ft:1 * ft a * * ft ft I. * * I I a ft S II ft ft.
Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 Butylene glycol 0.4 Dimethjconol 0.5 Acrylates/vjnyl isodecanoate crosspolymer 0.12 Palmitoyg pentapeptjde3 0. 00015 Synerlight 0.5 Lightskjn 0.5 Lupinus albus 0.021 Tetrasodium EDTA 0. 05 Preservative q.s Perfume q.s Method Stage 1.
Mix together ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone butyl methoxydjbenzoylmethane Butyrospermurn parkii, ethyihexyl salicylate, Cl 8-36 acid glycol ester, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-i 00 stearate and heat to 70-75 C to melt the waxes.
Stage 2.
Add acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate copolymer to water and homogenise for 2 minutes. Add glycerin, tetrasodium EDTA and butylene glycol to water phase and heat to 70-75 C.
Stage 3.
Add Stage 1 to stage 2 and homogenise for 2 minutes. Add cyclopentasiloxane cyclohexasjloxane and dimethjconol and stir. Cool to below 40 C. Add palmitoyl pentapeptjde-3 Lupinus albus, Synerlight, Lightskjn, tocopheryl acetate, preservative and perfume and mix. Add polyacrylamide and mix until uniform.
*. .. 5:. * * C * * S * * 5 * S ** S S. * S Example 13 - Anti-aqeing Hand Cream %w/w Aqua to 100 Ethyihexyl methoxycinna mate 7.5 C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 6 Glycerin 5.8 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 Butyrospermum parkii 2 Ethyihexyl salicylate 2 Cl 8-36 acid glycol ester 1.5 Glyceryl stea rate 1 Cetyl alcohol I PEG-i 00 stearate 0.98 Cyclopentasijoxane 1 Dimethjcone 0.9 Polyacrylamide emulsion 2 Cyclohexasiloxane 0.5 Tocopheryl acetate 0. 5 Butylene glycol 0.4 Dimethjconoj 0.5 Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer 0.12 Palmitoyl pentapeptjde-3 0.00015 Synerlight 1.0 Lightskin 1.0 Lupinus albus 0.021 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 Preservative q.s Perfume q.s S * * a * * a *** :* * * *.. : 1 30 Method Stage 1.
Mix together ethyihexyl methoxycinnamate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone, butyl methoxydjbenzoylrnet Butyrospermum parkii, ethyihexyl salicylate, C18- 36 acid glycol ester, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-I 00 stearate and heat to 70-75 C to melt the waxes.
Stage 2.
Add acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate copolymer to water and homogenise for 2 minutes.
Add glycerin, tetrasodium EDTA and butylene glycol to water phase and heat to 70- 75 C.
Stage 3.
Add Stage 1 to stage 2 and homogenise for 2 minutes. Add cycJopentasjlox cyclohexasiloxa0 and dimethiconol and stir. Cool to below 40 C. Add palmitoyl Pentapeptide...3, Lupinus albus, Synerlight, Lightskin, tocopheryl acetate, preservative and perfume and mix. Add polyacrylamide and mix until uniform.
Example 14 Skin lichteninq, skin firn-ijnp Serum %wlw Aqua to 100 Cyclopentasiloxane 47.5 Butylene glycol 5.60 Dimethicone crosspolymer 4. 50 Cyclohexasiloxane 4.20 Glycerin 1.70 Dimethicone copolyol 1.00 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 1.00 Lightskin 1.00 Synerlight 1.00 * I : : : * . 1:1 II * * * I I * * ** * :.
I I.. * Polysorbate 20 0.765 Magnesium sulfate 0.75 Retinyl pa Imitate 0. 15 Lupinus albus 0.042 Palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.0003 Palmitoyl tetrapeptjde3 0.00015 Preservative q.s Method Stage I Mix together aqua, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, butylene glycol, magnesium sulfate and polysorbafe 20.
Stage 2 Mix together retinyl palmitate, cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane Stage 3 Mix together dimethicone copolyol, half the dimethjcone crosspolymer and premix from stage 2.
Stage 4 Add stage 1 to stage 3 with slow stirring.
Stage 5 Add Lupinus albus, Synerlight, Lightskin, palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide3 and all remaining materials and mix until homogeneous.
Stage 6 Add the remaining dimethicone crosspolymer and homogenise until smooth. * S a
* S a * * t5* * S * * * * . a a. * * S a.' *5: : :.
Example 15 High SPF Cream %w/w Aqua to 100 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 8.00 Butylene glycol 5.00 Butyl methoxydjbenzoylmethane 4.00 lsotridecy salicylafe 4.00 Octocrylene 3.20 Polyglyceryj...3 methylgiucose distearate 2.50 C18-36 acid glycol ester 2.25 Ethylhexyl salicylate 2.25 Dimethicone 2.00 Titanium dioxide-manganese doped 1.00 Diethylhexyl butamido triazone 0.50 PVP/hexadecane copoJymer 0.50 Acrylates/vinyi isodecanoate crosspolymer 0.10 Polysorbate 20 0.10 Xanthan gum 0.05 Potassium hydroxide 0.03 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.02 Sepiwhite 0.10 Lightskin 1. 00 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.10 Preservative q.s Perfume q.s Method Stage 1 Mix together C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isotridecyl salicylate, polyglyceryl-3 methyiglucose distearate, C18-36 acid glycol ester, dimethicone, PVP/hexadecane
S
* * a 405 :: * ;.* copolymer and Sepiwhite. Heat to 70-75 C. Add butyl methoxydibenzoylmethafle ethylhexyl salicylate and diethylhexyl butamido triazone. Add acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer and homogenise. Add titanium dioxide-manganese doped and homogenise until smooth.
Stage 2 Mix together aqua, butylene glycol, polysorbate 20 and tetrasodium EDTA.
Homogenise in xanthan gum and heat to 70-75 C.
Stage 3 Add stage I to stage 2 and homogenise until smooth and glossy.
Stage 4 Cool to below 40 C and add Lightskin, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and any remaining materials. Mix until homogeneous.
In Vitro Skin Deiigmentation Assy Cell Culture Normal human keratinocytes and melanocytes obtained from healthy human foreskin samples were amplified by cell culture in modified defined media MCDB 153.
The keratinocytes and melanocytes (ratio 1/10) were inoculated on 0.63 cm2 polycarbonate filter inserts in supplemented chemically defined medium and cultured for 11 days at the air-liquid interface. Histology revealed a pigmented stratified epithelium with a compact stratum corneum and a strong resemblance with human epidermis in vivo.
Procedure Five in vitro reconstituted tanned epidermal tissues, aged day 11 (size 0.63cm2) were dosed topically with 1.2 p1 each test agent or combination of test agents for 4 days.
All cultures were incubated at 37 CC, in a 5% CO2 in air atmosphere. After the treatments, all tissues were scored visually before extraction of melanin.
:: :: :* *. : * :.. : tract ion of melanin At the end of the test period cultures were removed from the polycarbonate insert by cutting with a sharp scalpel. The filters with tissue were plunged into 400pl Soluene and heated at 100 C for 45 minutes. The optical density of 100 p1 Soluene extract was measured at 500nm with synthetic melanin as a reference.
All results (visual and optical density) were compared to untreated controls.
The following results were found: Mterial [gmentat ion (% of Conqfl Individual 0.1% Sepiwhite 114 0.25% Sepiwhjte 115 0.5% Lightskin 113 mbinatjon 0.1% Sepiwhite + 0.5% Lightskin 96 A % score of less than 100% showed that the test product had reduced the pigmentation relative to the Control. A % score of greater than 100% showed that the test product had increased the pigmentation relative to the Control.
Accordingly, the combination of Sepiwhite and Lightskin showed a depign-, entatjo effect.
Skin Lightening effects of Various Active Ingredients Used in Handcream to Reduce the ApDearance of Age SDots rocedure Single age spots with approximate diameter 2mm on the backs of hands of medically trained volunteers were photographed. Test compositions containing the concentrations of the combinations listed below were given to volunteers to apply daily to the backs of the hand with the age spot. Photographs were taken at baseline * S S * * * *a.
* . I I S * *. * * : * a *8 **t ** ** :. las *
and after 2 weeks product use and image analysis measurements of lightness/dar55 values carried out to assess the extent of lightening of the age spot.
The results were as follows: %Licjhtening of Age Spot Composition i: 0.1% Sepiwhite + 0.5% Lightskin 14.9% Composition 2: 0.5% Synerlight + 0.5% Lightskin 22.3% These results showed that the above combinations had a useful skin lightening effect and are thus effective to treat age spots.
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* I p * * * I * . : * : :.. :.

Claims (37)

  1. Claims 1. A cosmetic composition comprising a synergistic mixture of two
    or more skin whitening agents selected from the group consisting of: a) Undecylenoyl phenylalanjne* b) Agarum cribosum; and C) Actinidia chinensis.
  2. 2. A composition as claimed in Claim 1 comprising Agarum cribosum.
  3. 3. A composition as claimed in Claim 1 comprising Sophora angustifolia in combination with Actinidia chinensis.
  4. 4. A composition as claimed in either Claim 1 or Claim 2 wherein the synergistic mixture comprises Agarum cribosum in combination with at least one of Undecylenoyl phenylalanjne or Actinidia chinensis.
  5. 5. A composition as claimed in Claim 4 comprising Agarum cribosum in combination with Undecylenoyl phenylalanine or Actinidia chinensis.
  6. 6. A composition as claimed in either Claim 1 or Claim 2 wherein the synergistic mixture comprises Undecylenoyl phenylalanine in combination with at least one of Agarum cribosum or Actinidia chinensis.
  7. 7. A composition as claimed in Claim 6 wherein the synergistic mixture comprises Undecylenoyl phenylalanine in combination with at least one of Agarum cribosum or Actinidia chinensis
  8. 8. A composition as claimed in either Claim I or Claim 2 wherein the synergistic mixture comprises Actinidja chinensis in combination with at least one of Undecylenoyl phenylalanine or Agarum cribosum. * *
    II I * * I I I I. * II I..
  9. 9. A composition as claimed in Claim 8 wherein the synergistic mixture comprises Actinidia chinensis in combination with tJndecylenoyl phenylalanine or Agarum cribosum.
  10. 10. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein the total concentration of skin whitening agents is at least 0.01 % by weight, more Preferably at least 0.02% by weight and most preferably at least 0.05% by weight.
  11. 11. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein the total concentration of skin whitening agents is less than 5% by weight, more Preferably less than 4% by weight and most preferably less than 3% by weight.
  12. 12. A composition as claimed in any one of claims I to 9 wherein the total concentration of skin whitening agents is in the range 0.01 to 5% by weight, more Preferably in the range 0.02 to 4% by weight and most Preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight.
  13. 13. A composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 9 wherein the concentration of each skin whitening agent is in the range 0.01 up to 1 % by weight.
  14. 14. A composition as claimed in Claim 1 wherein the synergistic combination of skin whitening agents comprises: a) Undecylenoyl phenylalanine and Agarum cribosum; b) Undecylenoyl phenylalanine and Actinid,a chinensis; or c) Agarum cribosum and Actinidia chinensis;
  15. 15. A composition as claimed in Claim 1 comprising o.oi to 2% by weight Undecylenoyl phenylalanine more Preferably 0.02 to I % by weight, most preferably 0.05 to 0.5% by weight.
    : : : *.
    I * * a *0 * * a 4 6
  16. 16. A composition as claimed in Claim 1 comprising 0.05 to 4% by weight Agarum cribosum more Preferably 0.1 tol% by weight, most Preferably 0.4 to 0.6% by weight.
  17. 17. A composition as claimed in Claim I comprising 0.01-4% by weight Actinidia chinensis, more Preferably 0.05 to 1% by weight, most preferably o.i to 0.5% by weight.
  18. 18. A composition as claimed in Claim 14 wherein the ratio of Undecylenoyi phenylaJanjn to Agarum cribosum is in the range 1:1 to 1:20 parts by weight, Preferably 1:2 to 1:10 parts by weight, most Preferably 1:3 to 1:7 parts by weight.
  19. 19. A composition as claimed in Claim 14 wherein the ratio of Agarum cribosum to Actinidia chinensis is in the range 10:1 to 1:10 parts by weight, Preferably 5:1 to 1:5 parts by weight, most Preferably 2:1 to 1:2 parts by weight.
  20. 20. A composition as claimed in Claim 14 wherein the ratio of Undecylenoyi phenylajanine to Actinidia chinensis is in the range 1:20 to 1:2 parts by weight, Preferably 1:10 to 1:2 parts by weight, most Preferably 1:10 to 1:4 parts by weight.
  21. 21. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, which has the form of an aqueous or oily solution or dispersion or emulsion or a gel.
  22. 22. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, which is in the form of an emulsion.
  23. 23. A composition as claimed in Claim 23, wherein the emulsion is an oilin-water emulsion.
  24. 24. A composition as claimed in Claim 23, wherein the emulsion is a waterin-oil emulsion.
    *. I:. * I,.
    * , * I a II a * I $ a a * a * :.. : cc 39
  25. 25. A composition as claimed in Claim 21, which is in the form of an aqueous gel.
  26. 26. A composition as claimed in any Preceding claim, which comprises an aqueous solvent system.
  27. 27. A composition as claimed in any Preceding claim, which comprises one or more excipients selected from the group Consisting of emulsifiers, emollients, lipids, humectants or moisturisers, binders, Conditioning agents, emulsion stabilising salts, preservatives, chelating agents or sequestering agents, abrasives, pH adjusters, surfactants, perfumes and colourings.
  28. 28. A composition as claimed in any Preceding claim, which is selected from lipsticks, foundations, lip balms, face creams, eye creams, hand creams, face washes, body washes, shower gels, bath foams, mousses, foaming cleansers, toner Cleansers, aftersuns, moisturisers, and face masks.
  29. 29. A composition as claimed in any Preceding claim, which is formulated in a form selected from gels, creams, serums, pastes, lotions, milks, ointments, salves, sticks, spray, roll-on, powders, solutions, suspension dispersions and emulsions.
  30. 30. A composition as claimed in any Preceding claim further comprising one or more skincare active ingredients, preferably selected from anti- acne actives, vitamins, anti-wrinkle or anti-ageing actives, hydroxy acids, anti- oxjdants anti- inflammatories, anti-microbials, other skin-lightening actives anti- fungals, skin conditioners, sunscreens, plant extracts, skin identical lipids, moisturisers and materials to promote the repair of the skin barrier.
  31. 31. A skincare method, comprising application to the skin of an animal, Particularly a human, subject of a composition as claimed in any Preceding claim.
  32. 32. Use of a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1-30 to improve or enhance the appearance of the skin of an animal subject, Particularly a human. a *
    * * e * a * * * * S * S. * * S * I * S * :,. :
  33. 33. Use as claimed in claim 32 to treat undesired skin pigmentation, preferably to reduce or inhibit the formation of darkened skin pigmentation.
  34. 34. Use as claimed in either one of claims 32 or 33 to lighten skin colour.
  35. 35. Use as claimed in any one of claims 32 to 34 to treat age spots.
  36. 36. Use as claimed in Claim 32 to enhance the tone of the skin.
  37. 37. Use as claimed in Claim 36 to even out skin tone and skin colour.
    o', S
    I
    I I
    II *. II I. I., *
GB0525990A 2004-12-23 2005-12-21 Cosmetic compositions Expired - Fee Related GB2422107B (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GBGB0428274.5A GB0428274D0 (en) 2004-12-23 2004-12-23 Cosmetic compositions

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EP1541715B1 (en) * 2003-12-09 2012-03-28 General Electric Company Method of inhibiting corrosion in a steam condensate system
WO2014179520A1 (en) * 2013-05-01 2014-11-06 The Procter & Gamble Company Cosmetic compositions and methods for inhibiting melanin synthesis
WO2016040757A1 (en) * 2014-09-12 2016-03-17 The Procter & Gamble Company Cosmetic compositions and methods for inhibiting melanin synthesis
CN108969444A (en) * 2018-09-19 2018-12-11 陈洁珍 One kind removing black eye, crease-resistant Firm anti-age corrective eye treatment cream and preparation method thereof

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JP2001206836A (en) * 2000-01-27 2001-07-31 Kose Corp Skin preparation for external use
WO2003061618A1 (en) * 2002-01-22 2003-07-31 Societe Industrielle Limousine D'application Biologique (Silab) Method for obtaining an active principle from agarum cribosum, particularly for prevention of pigmentation
US20050118119A1 (en) * 2002-01-25 2005-06-02 Corinne Stoltz Use of a compound inactivating the kinase a protein in a composition containg a cosmetically acceptable medium in order to lighten the skin

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JP2001206836A (en) * 2000-01-27 2001-07-31 Kose Corp Skin preparation for external use
WO2003061618A1 (en) * 2002-01-22 2003-07-31 Societe Industrielle Limousine D'application Biologique (Silab) Method for obtaining an active principle from agarum cribosum, particularly for prevention of pigmentation
US20050118119A1 (en) * 2002-01-25 2005-06-02 Corinne Stoltz Use of a compound inactivating the kinase a protein in a composition containg a cosmetically acceptable medium in order to lighten the skin

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1541715B1 (en) * 2003-12-09 2012-03-28 General Electric Company Method of inhibiting corrosion in a steam condensate system
WO2014179520A1 (en) * 2013-05-01 2014-11-06 The Procter & Gamble Company Cosmetic compositions and methods for inhibiting melanin synthesis
WO2016040757A1 (en) * 2014-09-12 2016-03-17 The Procter & Gamble Company Cosmetic compositions and methods for inhibiting melanin synthesis
JP2017527579A (en) * 2014-09-12 2017-09-21 ザ プロクター アンド ギャンブルカンパニー Cosmetic composition and method for inhibiting melanin synthesis
CN108969444A (en) * 2018-09-19 2018-12-11 陈洁珍 One kind removing black eye, crease-resistant Firm anti-age corrective eye treatment cream and preparation method thereof
CN108969444B (en) * 2018-09-19 2021-02-02 青岛生康盛生物科技有限公司 Black eye removing, anti-wrinkle firming and repairing eye cream and preparation method thereof

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