GB2239876A

GB2239876A - Elastic waistbands for garments

Info

Publication number: GB2239876A
Application number: GB9024339A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Patrick Lyons
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1989-11-09
Filing date: 1990-11-08
Publication date: 1991-07-17
Anticipated expiration: 2010-11-08
Also published as: GB2250301A; GB2239876B; GB9024339D0; GB9200239D0; GB2250301B

Abstract

Waistband (20) includes a strip of elastic material (23) located on the outer side of a garment and covered with a band of covering material (21). The covering material (21) is folded about the strip of elastic material (23), and the two materials (21) and (23) are fed from above the garment material (24) to the sewing point of a sewing machine, where the materials are sewn together. A second band of material (22) is folded and fed from beneath the garment material (24). Apparatus for attaching the elastic waistband (20) to a garment (24), comprises an electronic motoring unit 200 for feeding the strip of elastic material, a folder (100) for folding the first band of material (21) about the strip of elastic material (23) and a guide for guiding garment material, the elastic material and the band of material to a sewing point Y of a sewing machine Z. The apparatus also includes a folder (110) for folding and guiding the second band of material (24) to the sewing point of the sewing machine. <IMAGE>

Description

ELASTIC WAISTBANDS FOR GARMENTS The present invention relates to elastic waistbands for garments, a method of manufacturing elastic waistbands for garments and apparatus for manufacturing elastic waistbands for garments.

The most common elastic waistband in use today is known as the elastic wrap around waistband, which comprises a double width of band material folded equidistantly about the edge of a garment material, with a strip of elastic material located between one side of an edge of garment material and one width of the band material. The entire band is sewn together usually with four rows of parallel stitching.

A sample of a prior art elastic wrap around waistband is shown in Figure 1 which is a cross-sectional view of the band. The garment material is designated as A, the band material as B, the elastic material as E and the four rows of stitching as S. It will be seen however that a gap G exists between the folded over edge of the band material B and above the upper edge of the elastic material E. Due to the presence of the gap G, the edge or lip of the band is sloppy. A further disadvantage with this type of band is that the front and rear width of the band have to be of the same material type, colour, etc..

A second type of elastic waistband in common use is the "grown on" waistband in which the waistband is formed from the actual material of the garment and the elastic material inserted into the fold of the material as shown in Figure la. Technically, however, the item shown in Figure la is not an actual waistband but an elasticated top. In the "grown on" waistband or elasticated top shown in Figure la, the garment material A is folded over to form an envelope F within which the elastic material E is located. As in Figure 1 the waistband is sewn together by four rows of stitches S.

In this type of waistband, only one type of material, i.e.

the garment material, is used, resulting in a waste of material to produce the envelope F.

A major disadvantage with both of the above waistbands is that the strip of elastic material is on the inside of the garment, therefore the smoother finish is on the inside of the garment.

The object of the invention is to alleviate the disadvantages associated with prior art elastic waistbands.

The present invention provides an elastic waistband for a garment, wherein the waistband includes a strip of elastic material located on the outer side of the garment, the strip of elastic material being covered with a band of material, the sides of which are folded about the strip of elastic material so that the edges of the sides of the band of material are planar, with no space being left between at least one edge of the strip of elastic material and the band of material folded about the or each edge of the strip of elastic material.

Advantageously, the waistband has an outer band of material and an inner band of material with the strip of elastic material being within the outer band of the material, with the upper edge of the inner band being below the upper edge of the outer band, whereby no lip is produced on the waistband.

Conveniently, an additional strip of material is located between the upper edges of the outer and inner bands so that a further strip extends above the upper edge of the waistband to form a frill or the like.

The invention also provides a method of attaching an elastic waistband to a garment, comprising the steps of feeding garment material to the sewing point of a sewing machine, folding a first band of material about a strip of elastic material by folding the sides of the first band of material about the strip of elastic material so that the edges of the sides of the first band of material are planar, with no space being left between at least one edge of the strip of elastic material and the first band of material about the or each edge of the strip of elastic material and feeding the first band of material and strip of elastic material to the sewing point of the sewing machine, and sewing the materials together to the garment material.

Conveniently, the method includes the step of folding and guiding a second band of material to the sewing point of the sewing machine, so as to form a two piece band with the first band being at one side of the garment material and the second band being at the other side of the garment material.

Advantageously, the method also includes metering the strip of elastic material using an electronic metering means.

The present invention also provides apparatus for attaching an elastic waistband to a garment, comprising electronic metering means for metering a strip of elastic material, a folder for folding a first band of material about the strip of metered elastic material and a guide for guiding garment material, the elastic material and the band of material to a sewing point of a sewing machine, the folder including means for folding the sides of the first band of the material about the strip of elastic material so that the edges of the sides of the first band of material are planar, with no space being left between at least one edge of the strip of elastic material and the first band of covering material about the or each edge of the first band of material and the folder further including means for mounting it on a sewing machine above the sewing point of the sewing machine.

Advantageously, the apparatus includes a second folder for folding and guiding a second band of material to the sewing point of the sewing machine, so as to form a two piece band with the first band being at one side of the garment material and the second band being at the other side of the garment material.

Conveniently, the electronic metering means includes means for metering a strip of elastic material in a tensioned mode and means for metering the strip of elastic material in a relaxed mode, whereby intermittent elastication may be applied to a garment.

The invention will hereinafter be more particularly described with reference to the accompanying drawings, which illustrate by way of example only, six embodiments of an elastic waistband according to the invention and three additional waistbands that may be manufactured using the same apparatus and one embodiment of apparatus according to the invention.In the drawings: Figures 2 to 9a are cross-sectional views of waistbands as they are presented to a sewing machine; Figure 10 is a perspective view of a sewing machine fitted with the apparatus of the invention showing a strip of elastic material being metered under tension to the sewing point of the machine; Figure 10a is a view similar to Figure 10 except that the strip of elastic is shown being metered to the sewing point of the machine in a relaxed mode; Figure 11a is a plan view of a composite folder forming part of the apparatus of the invention; Figure lib is a side view of the folder; Figure lic, lid, lie and lif are cross-sectional views taken along the lines C-C, D-D, E-E and F-F of Figure gila, respectively; ; Figure 12a is a plan view of a backing folder forming part of the apparatus of the invention; Figure 12b is a side view of the folder; Figure 12c, 12d and 12e are cross-sectional views taken along the lines C-C, D-D, and E-E of Figure 11a, respectively; Figure 13 is a perspective view of a bottom metering bracket forming part of the apparatus of the invention; and Figure 14 is a perspective view showing components of a bracket and guide system forming part of the apparatus of the invention.

Referring to the drawings and initially to Figure 2, the first embodiment of elastic waistband 20 comprises an outer band 21, an inner band 22 and a strip of elastic material 23 sewn onto a garment material 24 by four rows of stitching S.

Although the first embodiment 20 and subsequent embodiments all include four rows of stitching S, it should be borne in mind that two or more rows of stitching S may be used, i.e.

at least two rows with no upper limit except as determined by the particular sewing machine used.

The strip of elastic material 23 is fed from above the material 24 with the outer band 21 which is on top. The bands 21 and 22 come together with the material 24 at the presentation point of the work to the sewing needles. The operator has much greater control on the work and on the strip of elastic material 23 due to the fact that the elastic material 23 fills the outer band 21 and remains flat and unpuckered, although it may be ruched if required.

In this embodiment, it will be noted that the strip of elastic material 23 fits snugly within the band 21. It should be appreciated, however, that the effect of the invention can still be obtained by partially filling the band. This is achieved by fitting snugly the strip of elastic material against the left hand edge or the right hand edge of the band, whilst forming a paper bag or other required effect at the other edge.

In Figure 2, it will also be noted that the top edge of the inner band 22 is dropped back to the first stitching needle.

The materials of the outer band 21, the inner band 22 and the garment 24 may be completely different. The inner band 22 may be just a lining material resulting in a very trim band finish with reduced material cost.

Also, if the stitching used is a chain stitch, the chain formation will be on the inner band 22 and thus is not normally visible on the finished garment. Other forms of stitching may also be used, such as for example lock stitching Figure 3 illustrates the second embodiment 30, which comprises an outer band 31 enclosing a strip of elastic material 32, an inner band 33 sewn onto a garment material 34 and a folded over frill 35. As required, the frill 35 may be of any construction. It need not be a separate piece of material, it may be part of the garment material as shown in the dotted line in Figure 3, thus providing a variation of the second embodiment 30. The end of the frill may be turned up or down.

In the embodiment 40 shown in Figure 4 an outer band of material 41 with a strip of elastic material 42 is sewn onto a garment material 43.

Other embodiments are shown in Figures 5 and 6, with the strips of elastic material 52 and 62 being fed from the top in embodiments 50 and 60 respectively.

The embodiment 50 includes a single frill element between the outer and inner bands 51 and 53.

With reference to Figure 7, the sixth embodiment 70, comprises an inner band 71 within which a strip of elastic material 72 is located. The garment material 73 is on top of the work and is folded over to produce a loose folded over frill 74. In this embodiment, the strip of elastic 72 is fed from the bottom for ease of presentation of the work. The length L of the frill 74 may be adjusted to any required length.

In the seventh embodiment 80 as shown in Fig. 8, the inner band 81 with a strip of elastic material 82 located within the band can be sewn onto the garment material 83 at any desired location. Again the strip of elastic material 82 is fed from the bottom of the work.

In Figure 9, the strip of elastic material 92 is fed from the bottom in the embodiment 90. The outer band 91 which contains no elastic is shorter in length than the inner band 93, thus enabling the material of the inner band to be viewed over the upper edge of the outer band. The embodiment 90A shown in Figure 9a is similar to embodiment 90 except that the strip of elastic material 92 is located in the outer band 91.

The apparatus of the invention is shown in Figures 10 and 1ova, mounted on an industrial sewing machine Z and includes a composite elastic feed and outer band folder 100 mounted above the sewing point Y of the sewing machine Z and a backing band folder 110 mounted below the sewing point Y.

An electronic metering unit 200 meters a strip of elastic material 23 into the composite folder 100. A strip of outer band material 21 is fed into the folder 100 from spool 220. The electronic metering unit 200 includes a step motor 202 which drives a set of elastic metering rollers 204, and an electronic programmable control box 206.

A synchronizer mounted on the handwheel (none of which are shown in the drawings) of the sewing machine Z monitors the speed of the sewing machine. A corresponding signal is sent from the synchronizer to the control box 206 from which pulses are sent along cable 210 to the step motor 202 which rotates the metering rollers 204 in a direct ratio to the speed of the sewing machine. The particular ratio chosen is selected by the user and will be determined by the type of work being carried out.

In the arrangement shown in Figure 10, the apparatus is set up for the production of the first embodiment of elastic waistband 20. Thus, the inner band 22 is fed through the folder 110 to the sewing point Y. The strip of elastic 23 is metered into the composite folder 100 under tension from the electronic metering unit 200 which also records the length of elastic that is metered through.

The arrangement shown in Figure 10a is for the production of a waistband with intermittent elastication, i.e. a waistband in which portions of the elastic is under tension and other alternate portions are relaxed. To achieve this effect, the strip of elastic must be metered alternately, through the composite folder 100 under tension as in Figure 10 to give a ruched effect and without tension as in Figure 1ova. To ensure that the elastic is not under tension, the metering unit 200 advances the strip of elastic material 23 to form a loop 25. As the attached band 20 incorporating the strip of elastic is fed through the sewing machine Z, the metering unit 200 operates to maintain the loop, so that the strip of elastic material may be fed into the composite folder 100 substantially under the effect of gravity and with no tension being applied to the elastic.

After the required length of band 20 has been produced in relaxed mode, the control box 206 sends a signal to the step motor 202 to cause it to operate in reverse to return elastic material back through the elastic metering rollers 204 until the strip of elastic material is put under tension to enable the desired ruched effect to be produced.

Referring now to Figures ila and lib, the folders 100 and 110 will now be described in detail. The outer band of material 21 and the strip of elastic material 23 (not shown in Figures 11 and 12) are fed into the entrance of composite folder 100, the outer band of material into aperture 101 and the strip of elastic material into aperture 102. The outer band of material is folded around the strip of elastic material by folding edges 103 and in the folded condition exits between guide rails 104 to be presented from above to the sewing point Y of the sewing machine Z. Figures lic to 11f illustrate how the folder 100 achieves the folding action as the material progresses through it.

Similarly, in Figures 12a and 12b, the inner band of material 22 enters aperture 111 and is folded according to the shape of the folding edges 113 and advances out between guide rails 114 of the folder 110 which is located below the sewing point of the sewing machine Z. As may be seen in some of the foregoing embodiments, elastic material may be used on the inner side of the garment, thus elastic material is fed from below the sewing point v. To achieve this effect, the arrangement of the folders 100 and 110 is reversed. Thus, the composite folder 100 and the electronic metering unit 200 are mounted on the sewing machine below the sewing point Y. The other folder 100 is then mounted above the sewing point Y.

Provided on the sewing machine Z is a bottom metering bracket 120 (see Figures 10, 10a and 13) to which may be attached the electronic metering unit 200.

Figure 14 shows in greater detail the support bracket 130 for supporting the composite folder 100 and electronic metering unit 200 above the sewing point Y and the support bracket 140 for supporting the folder 110. The spool 220 is mounted on shaft 222 and retained in position by a spring loaded collar 132. Also mounted on the bracket 130 is an elongate arm 131 which supports the strip of elastic material 23 prior to it being fed into the metering rollers 204. The folder 110 is mounted on the sewing machine Z by the support 140. The material for the inner band 22 is stored on spool 221 which is mounted on shaft 223 and retained in position by spring loaded collar 133.

In summary, the elastic waistbands produced as a result of this invention are of a very high quality finish. This is due to the fact that no lip is produced where the edge of the elastic material engages with the covering band, and the edges of a two piece band do not coincide. The band within which the elastic material is located is flat, thus giving a smooth finish which adds to the appearance of a garment when the elastic is located on the outside of the garment. In such a situation also, the elastic material hides the bump which is caused by the insertion of the body fabric. There is no "bubbling" on the outside of the waistband.

Whilst the term "waistband" is used throughout the specification, it should be borne in mind that the term includes such elements of clothing items as cuffs, braces and the like where a strip of elastic material is enclosed within an envelope of fabric.

Claims

1. Apparatus for attaching an elastic waistband to a garment, comprising electronic metering means for metering a strip of elastic material, a folder for folding a first band of material about the strip of metered elastic material and a guide for guiding garment material, the elastic material and the band of material to a sewing point of a sewing machine, the folder including means for folding the sides of the first band of the material about the strip of elastic material so that the edges of the sides of the first band of material are planar, with no space being left between at least one edge of the strip of elastic material and the first band of material about the or each edge of the strip of elastic material and the folder further including means for mounting it on a sewing machine above the sewing point of the sewing machine.

2. Apparatus for attaching an elastic waistband to a garment according to claim 1, wherein the apparatus includes a second folder for folding and guiding a second band of material to the sewing point of the sewing machine, so as to form a two piece band with the first band being at one side of the garment material and the second band being at the other side of the garment material.

3. Apparatus for attaching an elastic waistband to a garment according to either Claim 1 or Claim 2, in which the electronic metering means includes means for metering a strip of elastic material in a tensioned mode and means for metering the strip of elastic material in a relaxed mode, whereby intermittent elastication may be applied to a garment.

4. A method of attaching an elastic waistband to a garment, comprising the steps of feeding garment material to the sewing point of a sewing machine, folding a first band of material about a strip of elastic material by folding the sides of the first band of material about the strip of elastic material so that the edges of the sides of first band of material are planar, with no space being left between at least one edge of the strip of elastic material and the first band of covering material about the or each edge of the strip of elastic material and feeding the first band of material and strip of elastic material to the sewing point of the sewing machine, and sewing the materials together to the garment material.

5. A method of attaching an elastic waistband to a garment according to claim 4, wherein the method includes the step of folding and guiding a second band of material to the sewing point of the sewing machine, so as to form a two piece band with the first band being at one side of the garment material and the second band being at the other side of the garment material.

6. A method of attaching an elastic waistband to a garment according to claim 4 or claim 5, including metering the strip of elastic material using an electronic metering means.

7. An elastic waistband for a garment, wherein the waistband includes a strip of elastic material located on the outer side of the garment, the strip of elastic material being covered with a band of material, the sides of which are folded about the strip of elastic material so that the edges of the sides of the band of material are planar, with no space being left between at least one edge of the strip of elastic material and the band of material folded about the or each edge of the strip of elastic material.

8. An elastic waistband according to claim 7, wherein the waistband has an outer band of material and an inner band of material with the strip of elastic material being within the outer band of the material, with the upper edge of the inner band being below the upper e(t & of the outer band, whereby no lip is produced on the waistband.

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9. An elastic waistband according to claim 7 or claim 8, wherein an additional strip of material is located between the upper edges of the outer and inner bands so that a further strip extends above the upper edge of the waistband to form a frill or the like.

10. An elastic waistband for a garment substantially in accordance with any of the embodiments herein described with reference to and as shown in Figures 2 to 9a of the accompanying drawings.

11. A method of attaching an elastic waistband to a garment substantially as herein described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

12. An apparatus for attaching an elastic waistband to a garment substantially as herein deazRibed with reference to and as shown in Figures 10 to 14 of the accompanying drawings.