GB2192458A - Tools for marking out a pattern for the manufacture of garments - Google Patents

Abstract

A pair of tools A, B for marking out a pattern for the manufacture of a garment which does not require darts. Each tool comprises a flat plate having a series of curved edges whose contours conform in shape to the pattern, and a number of scales representing different sizes.There is a scale for use in connection with the difference between the chest size and the bust size which is used to extend the width of the underarm point on the pattern in order to accommodate the bust without darts. <IMAGE>

Description

SPECIFICATION Tools for marking out a pattern for the manufacture of garments The present invention relates to tools for marking out a pattern for the manufacture of garments, in particular modern types of garments for women which do not require the presence of darts~butwhich neverthelesscoverthefemale body shape with a good fit.

When a conventional template is used to produce a pattern blockwhich is a good fit, this may well necessitate modifying the basic block. This will require considerable knowledge and effort.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a system, which produces a bodice block without darts but which gives a good fit for all personal sizes by the simple use of tools. It is a further object to provide a system to produce a flat bodice block that can be used to design a variety of garments in a wide range of sizes.

According to the present invention, there are provided a pair of tools for marking out a pattern for the manufacture of the modern type of garment which does not require the presence of darts and can fit any individual having any particular range of size measurements, each tool comprising a flat plate having a series of curved edges where contours conform in shape to the desired dartless pattern, the tools further comprising scales representing different sizes, the scales including at leastone scale for use in connection with the difference between the chestsize and the bust size which difference is used to extendthewidth of the underarm point on the pattern to envelope the body in a flat block without darts.

Preferably, the tools include a scale for marking the neck depth on the pattern, and a scale for marking the armhole depth on the pattern, preferably from the top left corner of one tool.

Preferably, the tools include curves corresponding to neckline and armhole curves on the garment.

Preferably, the tools include a curve corresponding to the chest-bust difference and the extension of a chest-line atthe underarm point Preferably, the tools include a cut-out with scalesforsleeve construction, a scale for marking a chestline, and a scalefor marking a shoulder point.

Preferably, the tools include curves and scales for marking upper and lower sleeve curves and a chest-bust difference curve extension of the sleeve underarm,and crotch curves and scalesforthe construction of trousers. Preferably, one tool has a square aperture and the other a square projection so thatthe tools can be fixed to each other at right angles.

Tools in accordance with the invention are small, easyto handleandto carry, and can beusedto design a variety of garments in a wide range of sizes.

The garments can be a good fitforthefemale body for which they are intended.

The tools can also be used separately, as will be shown, to mark points orcurvesforthe construction ofthe flat bodice block, the sleeve block, and the trousers block.

The tools are therefore specially designed to have curves corresponding preferably to a neck curve, armhole curve and sleeve curves together with the chest-bust difference curve extension.

Preferably, the scales at the edges and the curves on both tools are used to make a flat bodice which is an exact quarter of the total garment and by cutting it double one can have half the garment part because the back part is the same as the front.

The present system is quite different to other systems because in other systems, affront part is produced including a dart (ortowhich a dart is added), and a different block has to be made forthe back part of the garment which has to be matched with the front on both shoulder line and side seam line. With the system of the present invention, the third dimension factor is designed beyond the chest point producing an original blockforthefemale body and there is no problem in matching front and back since they are the same.

Preferably one tool has a curve and a scale for a neckline curve, an armhole curve, a chest and bust difference curve. It preferably also has scales for neckand armhole depths and acut-outinwhichthe sleeve scales are included.

Preferably, the other tool has upper and lower sleeve curves and a chest-bust difference curve for the sleeve underarm. It also preferably has scales for the neck point and shoulder pointafldfor the chest line.

Preferably the backface ofthefirsttool is used for the construction oftrousers and has a curve forfront and back crotch curves. It preferably also has scales for marking a crease line, a crotch line and other construction lines for making trouser patterns.

The invention may be carried into practice in various ways and one embodiment will now be described by way of example with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which: Figure 1 shows one side ofthetool A; Figure2 shows the working side of the tool B; Figure 3 shows the other side of the tool Atothat shown in Figure 1; Figures 4to 10 illustrate successive stages in drawing a basic bodice block; Figures 11 to 19 illustrate successive stages in drawing a basic sleeve block; and Figure 20 is a comparison between a bodice block prepared by a conventional system with one prepared in accordance with the invention.

Referring to Figures 1 and 2 thetools A and B are 30cm long,7 cm attheirwidest part and 2to 3 mm thick. They each have a front working face, and tool A has a back working face also, used for the construction oftrousers.

Thetool B has a square aperture 21 whiie the tool A has a square protrusion 22 on its front face. The protrusion 22 fits into the aperture 21 so thatthetwo toolsAand B havetheirmajor straight edges at right angles.

The front faces are used to make a flat bodice block, which can be used twice for both front and back garment parts.

The rearface ofthetool Ais shown in Figure3 and is used to mark crotch curves to form a trouser pattern.

The tools have a series of curves astheiredges.

These are marked with scales for making the desired pattern.

On thefrontface of tool Athere arethefollowing scales: Scales No 1 and4for marking neck and armhole depth (based on the chest measurement).

Scales No 6, 7and8for marking neck point and underarm point end for designing the relevant neckline and armhole curves.

Sleeve scales Ml, M2, M3 on the cut-out for marking the sleeve width and sleeve crown position.

On thefrontface oftool B there are thefollowing scales: Scales 2, 3and5for marking the neck point, shoulder point and chest line (based on chest measurement).

Sleeve scales M4, M5, M6for designing lower and upper sleeve curves and for marking the chestand bust difference extension for the underarm sleeve curve.

On the backface oftool Athere are the following scales: Scale ion the vertical edge and scales P2, P3, K andP40n the cut-out. There are also points K and K' on the curve forthe crotch curves.

The marking of a patternforonefrontquarterofa blouse or dress will now be described in more detail in orderto illustrate the invention.

To draw the basic bodice block (dartless): Figure 4 Fold a long piece of paper.

PlacethetoolsAand B atthe upper left edgeso that they snap into pIece at a right angle. Holding them steadily in this position, mark the personal size number (e.g. 42) on scales 1,2,3 and 4.

Figure 5 Lowertool B so that its rightangle is at the personal scale point 4. Mark the personalnumberon scale 5. This gives the basic points for the pattern.

Figure 6 Use tool A for marking neck curve.

Figure 7 Connect scale points 2 and 3forthe shoulder line.

Figure 8 Connect scale points 3 and 5 using thearmhole curve oftool A.

Place the arrow at scale point 5.

Figure 9 Markthe chest line by connecting scale points 4 and 5.

Place scale 8 (chest-bust difference) at scale 5 extending the chest line, then mark the appropriate curve for the chest-bust difference.

For example: with a chest measurement of 84cm (personal sizenumber42) and a bust measurement of 92 cm (a half ofthis figure being 46),the chest-bust difference is 46-42 = 4. In this case, mark4 at scale 8.

Figure 10 To complete the pattern, starting from the right angle measure 1/2 the total bodice measurement.

Drawthewaistline. Drawanotherline2cm below waistline to al low fr breast fullness. This is the gathering line. Draw a vertical from the underarm point 8 to the gathering line. This is a vertical guideline.

Connect point 8 with the gathering line at a point 2 cm insidethevertical guideline.

The beauty and simplicity of this method is that it is not necessary to make another pattern for the back.

On the front block which is on double paper mark2 cm below the top rig ht angle. Connect this pointto the neck point. This gives the back neck curve.

To separate front and back patterns, cut both pattern pieces at the back neck curve, then cut the front neck curve for the front bodice.

The pattern thus made is the left-hand pattern - piece.

Place this on two thicknesses offabricforthe right-handgarmentand useCFandCBlinesforgrain lines.

To drawa sleeve block: To make a suitable sleeve block for any flat bodice block use the sleeve scales (centre cut) of tools A and B in the following manner using the same personal size number as for the bodice i.e. halfthechest measurement: Figure 11 Take a folded paper witch the paperfold on the right hand vertical.

Draw a horizontal at right angls to the fold.

Figure 12 Place tool A with the sleeve scale arrow on the fold and mark the sleeve scale 1 (S1 ) on the horizontal.

This first horizontal give you the sleeve block width.

Figure 13 Draw a vertical from scale point 1; Figure 14 Place tool A on the left vertical so that sleeve scales 2 and 3 are on the line. Mark the size number on scales 2 and 3.

Figure 15, 16 At scale point S2 and S3 draw horizontals. These are the second and third sleeve horizontals.

Markthe mid-point on the second horizontal for the sleeve curves meeting point (Figure 6).

Todrawtheupperand lowersleeve curves, use the curves on tool B, always starting from the relevant arrow.

Figure 17 Putthe upper sleeve arrow on the second horizontal at the mid-point. Connectto the first horizontal right hand corner for sleeve crown.

Figure 18 Place the lower sleeve curve arrow at scale point S3 on the block and connect to the second horizontal midpoint.

Figure 19 To complete the lower sleeve curve, place the sleeve scale S6 at the scale point3, extending the third horizontal to the left. Mark the chest-bust differenceonthis lower curve.

The sleeve itself can then be completed in a conventional manner, with cuffs added if desired.

Figure 20 compares a blocka' b' c' d' prepared by a conventional system with a block abc d prepared in accordance with the invention using tools A and B.

The conventional block a' b' cd' requires darts to modify the shape ofthe pattern so that it is a correct fit This is not necessarywith the block a b c d ofthe present invention since the female body shape is taken account of by the use of the chest-bust measurement.

Claims (12)

1. A pair oftools for marking outa patternforthe manufacture ofthe modern type of garmentwhich does not require the presence ofdarts and can fit any individual having any particular range of size measurements, each tool comprising a flat plate having a series of curved edges where contours conform in shape to the desired dartless pattern, the tools further comprising scales representing different sizes, the scales including at least one scale for use in connection with the difference between the chestsizeandthe bust size which difference is used toextendthewidthoftheunderarm pointonthe pattern to envelope the body in a flat blockwithout darts.

2. Apairoftoolsasclaimedinclaim 1 including a scale for marking the neck depth on the pattern.

3. Apairoftools as claimed in claim 1 orclaim2 including a scale for marking the armhole depth.

4. A pair oftools as claimed in any preceding claim including curves corresponding to neckline and armhole cu curves on the garment.

5. A pair of tools as claimed in any preceding claim including a scale and a curve corresponding to the chest-bust difference and the extension of a chest-line atthe underarm point.

6. Apairoftools as claimed inanypreceding claim including a cut-out-with scales for sleeve construction.

7. A pair of tools as claimed in any preceding claim including a scale for marking a chestline.

8. A pairoftools as claimed in any preceding claim including a scale for marking ashoulderpoint.

9. A pair of tools as claimed in any preceding claim including curves and scalesformarking upper and lower sleeve curves and a chest-bust difference curve extension ofthe sleeve underarm.

10. A pair of tools asclaimed in any preceding claim including crotch curves and scales for the construction oftrousers.

11. A pair of tools as claimed in any preceding claim in which one tool has a square aperture and the other a square projection so that the tools can be fixed to each other at rig ht angles.

12. A pair of tools for marking out a patternfor the manufacture of a garment constructed and arranged substantiallyas herein specifically described with reference to and as shown in the accompanying drawings.