GB2049398A - Pocket construction - Google Patents
Pocket construction Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- GB2049398A GB2049398A GB8014434A GB8014434A GB2049398A GB 2049398 A GB2049398 A GB 2049398A GB 8014434 A GB8014434 A GB 8014434A GB 8014434 A GB8014434 A GB 8014434A GB 2049398 A GB2049398 A GB 2049398A
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- United Kingdom
- Prior art keywords
- blank
- panel
- garment panel
- garment
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/20—Pockets; Making or setting-in pockets
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
Abstract
A pocket blank is folded transversely for form inner and outer pocket panels (24,26). The inner pocket panel is adhesively secured to the inside of a garment (at 20), followed by formation of a slit (32) of predetermined shape in the adhesive connection therebetween. Preferably, a pocket welt is secured next at least across the bottom of the slot followed by placement of a facing strip thereover. The pocket panels are closed and sealed by adhesive (14). In another embodiment, a pocket blank is positioned beneath a pocket opening formed in the garment panel. The lower edge of the opening is then folded back and adhesively secured to one end of the pocket blank. A facing strip is attached near the other end of the pocket blank so that the strip covers the pocket opening after the pocket blank is transversely folded and sealed. <IMAGE>
Description
SPECIFICATION
Pocket construction
Background and summary of the invention
The present invention relates generally to a method of making pockets, and more particularly to a method of making pockets in any garment requiring pockets.
In the manufacture of garments, pockets are provided chiefly as a convenient means for carrying useful articles. Such useful items may include, for example, currency, change, keys, a wallet, a handkerchief and so forth. The pockets are integrated into the garment and take the general form of a pouch open at one end to permit easy access to the contents.
Two basic types of pocket construction are used.
In the patch-type pocket, a layer or patch of material is attached directly to the outside surface of the garment. The patch pocket is usually sewn only at the side and bottom edges so that articles can be received between the garment and pocket layers through the unsecured upper end. Patch pockets are thus easily constructed and attached to the garment, and are utilized most popularly in garments having less formal or leisure applications. In contrast to the patch-type pocket, the standard pocket is positioned on the inside of the garment. A slot in the garment permits access to the standard pocket. Consequently a standard pocket occupies a hidden, protected location in the garment, which therefore presents a much neater, finished appearance. However, construction of the standard pocket requires numerous manual operations including material cutting, positioning, sewing and trimming.These manual operations are time consuming and therefore expensive in terms of both labor and material expenditure.
The present invention comprises a method of constructing pockets in garments which overcomes the foregoing and other problems long since associated with the prior art. In accordance with the broader aspects of the invention, a length of pocket material is folded to provide two pocket panels interconnected by a fold with the obverse sides thereof facing inwardly. Preferably, portions of both longitudinal edges of the folded pocket are adhesively secured in one embodiment of the invention before securing the inner pocket panel to the inside surface of the garment. A pocket slot is then formed in the garment and selected components of the pocket are then assembled before adhesively securing the remaining peripheries of the pocket panels.
In another embodiment, a pocket blank is positioned beneath a pocket opening formed in the garment panel before the edge thereof is folded back and adhesively secured to the pocket blank. By these
methods, garment pockets are constructed from the
interior of the garment with a minimum number of
manual operations.
In accordance with more specific aspects of the
invention, a length of material defining a pocket
blank is first provided. Preferably, three areas of fusible adhesive material are located on the same side of the pocket blank; along portions of both longitudinal edges, and transversely in a strip near one end thereof. The pocket blank is first folded along the longitudinal edges, and later transversely so that each folded edge portion having fusible adhesive material thereon is adjacent the remaining portion of the same folded edge.
Alternatively, the areas of fusible adhesive material can be provided on opposite sides of the pocket blank; along portions of both longitudinal edges on the obverse side, and transversely in a strip near one end of the reverse side. Such a pocket blank is simply folded transversely in order to overlap each adhesive edge portion.
In accordance with the preferred construction, the fusible adhesive material in the vicinity of the fold interconnecting the inner and outer pocket blank panels is then activated to adhesively secure the bottom section of the pocket. Preferably, activation of the fusible adhesive material is accomplished by engaging the pocket blank with a heated press, ultrasonic means, or a radiant source capable of converting the adhesive from solid to plastic state.
After the pocket blank panels have been folded and adhesively secured in part, the inner pocket panel is adhesively secured to the inside surface of the garment by activating the transverse strip of fusible adhesive material. A slit, from which the pocket opening is constructed, is then formed through the adhesive connection between the garment and inner pocket panel. Depending upon the particular type of pocket desired, any of several welt, flap and facing strip combinations can be adhesively secured across or within the pocket opening. Stitched bar tacks are then provided at each end of the pocket opening to mechanically interconnect the garment, inner pocket panel and selected pocket components.At this juncture, the internal assembly of the pocket can be inspected before closing and adhesively securing the remaining section of the outer pocket panel to the inner pocket panel to complete the pocket construction.
According to another embodiment of the invention, a pocket blank is positioned on the inside surface of a garment panel beneath a pocket opening formed therein. The pocket blank is substantially similar to that employed in the first inventive embodiment, except that one end thereof is trimmed to correspond with the lower edge of the particular pocket opening. The lower edge of the opening is then folded back and adhesively secured to the pocket blank. If desired, a stitch can be added along the edge of the pocket opening to reinforce interconnection of the pocket blank and garment panel.
A facing strip is then positioned to cover the pocket opening when the pocket blank is later folded transversely to form inner and outer pocket panels.
Preferably, the facing strip is attached to the lower end of the pocket blank so that the strip is properly positioned upon folding of the pocket blank. Construction of the pocket is completed by adhesively securing the remaining periphery of the folded pocket blank. Stitched bar tacks can be provided at the ends of the pocket opening to mechanically interconnect the garment and pocket, if desired.
Description ofthe drawings
A more complete understanding of the invention may be had by reference to the following Detailed
Description when taken in conjunction with the accompanying Drawings, wherein:
Figure 1 is a block diagram illustrating a method of constructing pockets for garments incorporating the invention;
Figure 2 is an illustration of a length of pocket material useful in forming a pocket blank;
Figure 3 is an illustration of the pocket blank shown in Figure 2 after folding;
Figure 4 is an illustration of the folded pocket blank positioned on the inside of a garment panel;
Figures 5, 6 and 7 are illustrations of successive steps in a method of constructing pockets in accordance with the invention;
Figure 8 is an illustration of the inside surface of a garment having a pocket formed in accordance with the invention;;
Figure 9 is an illustration of the outside surface of a garment having a pocket formed in accordance with the invention;
Figure 10 is an illustration of an alternative to the pocket blank shown in Figure 2;
Figure 11 is a sectional view taken generally along lines 11-11 in Figure 9;
Figure 12 is an illustration of the outside surface of a garment having a pocket formed in accordance with a first modification of the invention;
Figure 13 is a partial sectional view taken generally along lines 13-13 in Figure 12;
Figure 14is an illustration ofthe outside surface of a garment having a pocket formed in accordance with a second modification of the invention;
Figure 15 is a partial sectional view taken generally along lines 15-15 in Figure 14;;
Figure 16 is an illustration of the outside surface of a garment having a pocket formed in accordance with a third modification of the invention;
Figure 17 is a partial sectional view taken generally along lines 17-17 in Figure 16;
Figures 18 and 19 are illustrations of a pocket blank useful in a method of constructing pockets according to a second embodiment of the invention;
Figure 20 is an illustration of an alternative to the pocket blank shown in Figures 18 and 19; Figures 21-24 are illustrations of steps in the pocket construction method according to the second embodiment of the invention;
Figures 25 and 26 are sectional views taken along lines 25-25 and 26-26 of Figure 23 in the direction of the arrows;
Figure 27 is a sectional view similar to Figure 26;;
Figure 28 is an illustration of the outside surface of a garment after completion of the pocket; and
Figures 29-33 are illustrations showing modifications of the second embodiment of the invention.
Detailed description of the invention
Referring now to the Drawings, and particularly to
Figure 1 thereof, there is illustrated a method of constructing pockets incorporating the invention.
The method includes the utilization of fusible adhesive materials to eliminate many heretofore required time consuming and costly manual operations in pocket construction. The method of the invention can be used in the manufacture of any garment utilizing pockets. Use of the method results in a strong, durable pocket construction of pleasing appearance.
Referring particularly to Figure 2, there is shown a pocket blank 10 useful in the practice of the invention. Pocket blank 10 is depicted in a flat, unfolded initial condition with the reverse side up. Pocket blank 10 is formed from a length of pocket material 12 having sufficient overall dimensions to allow construction of a pocket having predetermined depth and width. Material 12 can comprise any natural synthetic cloth material suitable for use in pocket construction. It will be understood that the exact composition of pocket material 12 is not critical to the practice of the invention.
In particular, pocket blank 10 comprises a rectangular piece of pocket material 12 having adhesive areas 14 located adjacent part of both longitudinal edges of the reverse side thereof. Adhesive areas 14 can be formed by attaching a thin layer of fusible adhesive material to the selected locations. The fusible material is preferably thermally responsive and may comprise ribbons on strips of extruded polyamide, nylon or polyester materials of the type manufactured by General Fabric Fusing Company of
Cincinnati, Ohio. If desired, the fusible adhesive could be extruded directly onto pocket material 12.
Adhesive areas 14 are of predetermined width and length, extending from upper end 16tofold line 18 on material 12. Preferably, pocket blank 10 also includes transverse adhesive area 20 positioned in spaced, parallel relationship near end 16 and across the reverse side of pocket blank 10. It will thus be apparent that adhesive areas 14 and 20 are formed by applying strips of fusible adhesive material to the same side of pocket material 12.
Two successive folding steps are then undertaken.
The longitudinal edges of pocket blank 10 are first folded inwardly in the direction of arrows 22 in
Figure 2. After this folding step, adhesive areas 14 face the same direction as the obverse side, while adhesive area 20 remains oriented in the reverse direction. Thus, the edge portions of pocket blank 10 face in a direction opposite the original direction.
After the folding of both longitudinal edges, pocket blank 10 is folded transversely along fold line 18. As is best shown in Figure 3, pocket blank 10 now comprises inner panel 24 and outer panel 26 interconnected at one end by fold 28. It will thus be apparent that after the longitudinal and transverse folding operations, adhesive areas 14 extend continuously between end 16 and fold 28 within the adjacent, folded longitudinal edges of panels 24 and 26. Moreover, all raw edges are turned inwardly and are therefore concealed.
With the pocket blank 10 folded as shown in Figure 3, activation of the fusible adhesive material between the adjacent longitudinal edges of panels 24 and 26 next occurs. Activation of the adhesive material is preferably accomplished by engaging heating means (not shown) with outer panel 26 of pocket blank 10. The means for activating the adhesive may comprise; for example, a heated press, ultrasonic or microwave means, or a radiant source capable of converting the adhesive from a solid to a plastic state. The temperature generated by the duration of engagement of the activating means are sufficient to melt the desired portions of adhesive areas 14, whereby the edges of pocket blank 10 are permeated with melted adhesive to become bonded together.It will be appreciated that use of a heated press for activating the fusible adhesive material to secure the edges of panels 24 and 26 would simultaneously function to press any wrinkles or folds in the edge portions. Furthermore, it will be understood that this means of adhesive connection is strong and durable as well as resistant to garment cleaning processes. Preferably, only a portion of each adhesive area 14 in the vicinity of fold 28 is initially activated, Thus, only the lower edge sections of folded pocket blank 10 are adhesively secured at first. This allows the upper section of outer panel 26 to be laid back exposing part of the pocket interior.
Referring momentarily to Figure 10, there is shown an alternate pocket blank 10a which could be substituted for pocket blank 10. Pocket blank 1 0a differs from pocket blank 10 primarily by virtue of the fact that adhesive areas 14 and 20 are located on opposite sides of the length of material 12, rather than on the same side. This eliminates the step of inwardly folding the longitudinal edges priorto the transverse folding operation. With pocket blank 1 Oa, it is necessary only that material 12 be transversely folded along fold line 18 so that adheive areas 14 are inside the resultant panels 24 and 26. It will be appreciated that a relatively narrower length of material 12 can be formed into pocket blank 10a, which results in material savings and therefore cost savings.Pocket blank 10a might be used, for example, in an inexpensive garment since the exposed edges result in a less finished appearance. Raveling of the edges is prevented, however, by adhesive permeation of material 12 in areas 14 after activation.
While it is preferable that the steps of transversely folding the pocket blank 10 and then adhesively securing the lower edge sections thereof be carried out at this stage of the invention, it will be understood that these steps can occur later without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
For instance, these steps could take place after the
pocket blank 10 is attached to the garment, or after
other subsequent steps.
With a section of upper panel 26 laid back as
shown in Figure 4, the folded pocket blank 10 is then
positioned on the inside surface of a garment 30
wherein the pocket is desired. The material of
garment 30 can comprise any natural or synthetic
cloth, the exact composition of which is not critical to
the practice of the invention. In particular, the
reverse side of panel 24 is placed downward with
adhesive area 20 situated over the area in which the
pocket slot will be formed. It will be recalled that the
placement of adhesive area 20 on pocket blank 10 is
preferred but not required in the practice of the
invention. Alternatively, in the absence of adhesive area 20 on pocket blank 10, a corresponding adhesive area initially formed on garment 30 at the location of the pocket slot to be formed can be utilized, if desired.With the folded pocket blank 10 thus positioned, the fusible material of adhesive area 20 is activated to adhesively secure folded pocket blank 10 to garment 30.
Following the step of adhesively securing pocket blank 10 to garment 30, a transverse slit 32 is formed through garment 30, activated adhesive area 20 and inner panel 24. Slit 32 is thus made through the adhesive connection between pocket blank 10 and garment 30 so that the edges formed thereby are not unattached but are bonded together. The preferred configuration of slit 32 includes Y-shaped ends. This particular slit configuration is most important because two sets of opposing flaps, flap sets 34 and 36, are so formed.
Having made slit 32, the flap sets 34 and 36 are folded inwardly against the obverse side of inner panel 24 of pocket blank 10 as shown in Figure 5.
This exposes a rectangular opening through garment 30 and one panel of pocket blank 10 which will serve as pocket slot 38. Flap sets 34 and 36 must then be secured in their folded back positions.
The flap sets 34 and 36 are secured down with adhesive strip 40. In accordance with one construction, strip 40 comprises a rectangular piece of fusible adhesive including a cutout area corresponding to pocket slot 38. Adhesive strip 40 is laid over flap sets 34 and 36 in surrounding relationship with slot 38. It will be apparent that more than one separate adhesive strip can be positioned over flap sets 34 and 36 adjacent slot 38, if desired. It will be appreciated that adhesive strip 40, or its equivalent, could be extruded directly over flap sets 34 and 36, if desired. Adhesive strip 40 preferably consists of a piece of extruded adhesive material carried on one side of a backing layer (not shown). By this means, adhesive strip 40 is laid with the adhesive side downward. The fusible adhesive material of strip 40 can then be activated to secure flap sets 34 and 36 in place.Following activation of adhesive strip 40, the backing (not shown) can then be peeled away to expose the top side of the adhesive strip. At this point it will thus be apparent that adhesive areas surround pocket slot 38.
To achieve a pocket construction of the desired type and finished, one or more pocket welts, a pocket flap, a facing strip, or combinations thereof are next attached. The materials of these pocket components may comprise any natural or synthetic cloth, the exact composition of which is not critical to the practice of the invention. If desired, any of these
pocket components can comprise a material match
ing the garment 30. Depending upon the style or fashion, a welt could also be formed of a material contrasting with garment 30.
If desired, a welt 44 is first laid over the lower edge
of pocket slot 38 and a portion of adhesive strip 40 as
shown in Figure 6. Welt 44 preferably comprises a
relatively narrow piece of folded material with
sufficient length to span panel 24 between adhesive
areas 14. The folded edge of welt 44 is positioned
across slot 38 to provide a finished appearance to the pocket opening. The fusible material comprising adhesive strip 40 is then activated to secure welt 44 to panel 24.
If desired, a pocket facing strip can then be laid over welt 44 and the remaining portion of pocket slot 38 as shown in Figure 7. Preferably, facing strip 46 is of sufficient width to cover welt 44 and pocket slot 38 without entirely covering the portion of adhesive strip 40 between slot 38 and end 16. Thus, the remaining exposed portion of adhesive strip 40 can be subsequently used to adhesively secure the ends of pocket panels 24 and 26. It will be apparent that a wider facing strip 46 covering the upper section of adhesive strip 40 could be utilized. A wider facing strip 46 would preferably include an adhesive area (not shown) along the upper end of the outside surface thereof, by which outer pocket panel 26 would be adhesively secured to facing strip 46 which would be adhesively secured in turn to inner pocket panel 24.As shown in Figure 7, facing strip 46 preferably includes adhesive area 48 along the lower end of the outside surface thereof. Adhesive area 48 comprises a layer of fusible adhesive material which will be utilized subsequently to secure outer pocket panel 26 to strip 46.
It will be appreciated that the pocket construction can include a facing strip 46 without welt 44. In the event a facing strip 46 alone is desired, a strip of material (not shown) should first be placed between the lower section of facing strip 46 and adhesive strip 40 to act as a buffer. Such a buffer strip (not shown) would be required to prevent facing strip 46 from becoming adhesively secured in surrounding relationship with pocket slot 38. Access to the interior of the pocket construction would therefore be maintained.
After positioning of pocket welt 44 and/or pocket facing strip 46, switched bar tacks 50 are added at each end of pocket slot 38. Tacks 50, only one of which is shown in Figure 7, serve to mechanically interconnect garment 30, inner pocket panel 24, and the desired pocket components. Tacks 50 also help secure flap set 34 in a folded inward configuration.
Thus, tacks 50 function to reinforce the pocket construction, and further serve to lend a handmade appearance to the outside of garment 30. As shown, tacks 50 mechanically interconnect garment 30, panel 24, welt 44, and facing strip 46.
Subsequent to the placement of tacks 50, the interior assembly of the pocket can be inspected before closing panel 26 and activating the remaining adhesive areas to seal the upper section of the folded pocket blank 10. With panel 26 closed as shown in Figure 8, activation of adhesive area 48, the remaining portions of adhesive areas 14 and adhesive strip 40 completes the pocket construction. A cross section of a finished, single welt pocket constructed in accordance with the invention is shown in Figure 11. The pocket shown in Figure 11 includes optional stitch 45.
Turning now to Figures 12 and 13, the step of attaching a second pocket welt 52 as shown can be included in the invention. In particular, second welt 52 is laid over adhesive strip 40 so as to extend across the upper edge of pocket slot 38. This step can be carried out either before or after the placement of first welt 44, but prior to the placement of facing strip 46. The fusible material comprising adhesive strip 40 is then activated to secure second welt 52 across pocket slot 38 to panel 24. If desired, pocket facing strip 46 can then be laid over welts 44 and 52, and the remaining portion of pocket slot 38.
Depending upon the width of second welt 52, it may be necessary to first position adhesive strip 54 between welt 52 and facing strip 46 to provide for later sealing of the upper pocket construction. It will be apparentthatthe purpose of adhesive strip 54 could also be served by the initial provision of adhesive areas (not shown) at the appropriate locations on either second welt 52 or facing strip 46, if desired. As is best shown in Figure 13, it will be appreciated that either adhesive strip 40 or adhesive strip 54 can be provided with sufficient width to secure the upper end of pocket panel 26 to inner panel 24 and/or the inside of garment 30. An optional stitch 55 can be added for reinforcement. Stitch 55 is similar to optional stitch 45, but is utilized to interconnect second welt 52, the upper half of flap set 36, and inner panel 24.Stitch 55 preferably extends along substantially the entire width of pocket slot 38. After positioning of welts 44 and 52, and facing strip 46, stitched bar tacks 50 are added to mechanically interconnect the desired components, inner panel 24 and garment 30. Panel 26 is then closed and sealed in the usual manner to complete the pocket construction. Consequently, it will be understood that the method of the invention can be utilized to construct pockets having double welts.
Referring to Figures 14 and 15, there is shown a simulated double welt 56 which can be incorporated into the invention. In place of single welt 44, welt 56 can be laid over adhesive strip 40 across the lower edge of pocket slot 38. Simulated double welt 56 comprises a length of suitable material folded so as to give the appearance of a double welt construction.
As is best shown in Figure 15, simulated double welt 56 achieves this purpose of being folded and flattened in an uneven W configuration. No additional adhesive strips are required when using welt 56.
After the positioning of simulated double welt 56, the fusible material comprising adhesive strip 40 is then activated to secure welt 56 to panel 24 across pocket slot 38. An optional stitch 57 can be added for reinforcement. Stitch 57 is similar to stitch 45, and is utilized to interconnect double welt 56, the lower half of flap set 36, and inner panel 24. Stitch 57 preferably extends along substantially the entire width of pocket slot 38. If desired, pocket facing strip 46 can then be laid over welt 56 and the remaining portion of pocket slot 38, followed by the placement of stitched bar tacks 50. Panel 26 can then be closed and sealed in the usual manner. Consequently, it will be understood that the method of the invention can be utilized to construct a simulated double welt pocket.
With reference now to Figures 16 and 17, place mentofpocketflap 58 can be incorporated in the method of the invention. The width of flap 58 is such that it can be positioned within pocket slot 38. Flap 58 can be utilized with or without we It 44 and/or facing strip 46. Preferably, flap 58 is utilized in conjunction with welt 44 and facing strip 46. Either before or after the placement of welt 44, flap 58 is positioned within the pocket slot 38 so that the upper end of flap 58 overlays adhesive strip 40 adjacent the upper side of slot 38. The fusible material comprising adhesive strip 40 is activated to secure flap 58 to panel 24. An optional stitch 59 can be added for reinforcement. Stitch 59 is similar to stitch 45, but is utilized to interconnect flap 58, the upper half of flap set 36, and inner panel 24.Stitch 59 preferably extends along substantially the entire width of pocket slot 38. If desired, facing strip 46 can then be laid over the upper end of flap 58, welt 44, and over the remaining portion of pocket slot 38. Adhesive strip 60 is positioned between the upper end of flap 58 and facing strip 46 to provide a means for sealing the upper end of the pocket construction. It will be appreciated that adhesive areas (not shown) can be provided initially at the appropriate locations on flap 58 and/or facing strip 46 to function in place of adhesive strip 60, if desired. Stitched bar tacks 50 are then added at each end of slot 38 to mechanically interconnect garment 30, panel 24, and the desired pocket components. It will be understood that tacks 50 do not extend through flap 58.Following formation of tacks 50, panel 26 is closed and the remaining adhesive areas are secured to seal the upper section of the pocket construction. Consequently, it will be understood that the method of the invention can also be utilized to construct pockets having flaps.
The pocket construction method described above and illustrated in Figures 1-17 comprises a first embodiment of the invention which is particularly suited for fabricating back pockets in trousers, or other types of pockets which are located within a garment panel and away from the periphery thereof.
The method illustrated in Figures 1-17 is notespe- cially desirable for front-type pockets. On the other hand, the pocket construction method shown in
Figures 18-33 represents a second embodiment of the invention which is suitable for front trouser pockets or other pockets which may be located on a seam at the edge of a garment panel.
Figures 18 and 19 show a pocket blank 70 useful in practicing the second embodiment of the invention herein. Pocket blank 70 is illustrated in a flat, unfolded initial condition with the reverse side up in
Figure 18. Pocket blank 70 is defined by a generally rectangular length of pocket material 72 of sufficient size to permit fabrication of the desired pocket.
Material 72 can comprise any suitable natural or synthetic cloth material, the exact composition of which is not critical to the invention.
Adhesive areas 74 are located alongside part of both longitudinal edges of the reverse side of material 72. Adhesive areas 74 are of predetermined width and extend from lower end 76 at least to transverse fold line 78 on material 72. Preferably, pocket blank 70 also includes a generally transverse adhesive area 80 extending diagonally across the reverse side of material 72. The upper end 82 of pocket blank 70 is also angled or cut diagonally as will be explained more fully hereinafter.
Adhesive areas 74 and 80 can be formed by attaching thin layers of fusible adhesive material to pocket blank 70 in the desired locations, in a fashion similar to that described with regard to pocket blank 10. The fusible material is preferably thermally responsive and may comprise ribbons or strips of extruded polyamide, nylon or polyester materials of the type manufactured by General Fabric Fusing
Company of Cincinnati, Ohio. If desired, fusible adhesive can be extruded directly onto pocket material 72.
As indicated by arrows 84 in Figure 18, the longitudinal edges of pocket blank 70 are turned inwardly so that adhesive areas 74 face the same direction as adhesive area 80. Figure 19 shows pocket blank 70 after folding the longitudinal edges thereof. It will thus be apparent that pocket blank 70 is substantially similar to pocket blank 10 utilized in the first embodiment of the invention, except that adhesive area 80 and upper end 82 are diagonally rather than perpendicularly oriented with respect to the sides of the pocket blank.
Referring to Figure 20, there is shown a pocket blank 70a which may be used as an alternative to pocket blank 70. In pocket blank 70a, adhesive areas 74 are provided on the same side of pocket blank 72 as adhesive area 80, rather than the opposite side thereof. This eliminates the step of inwardly folding the longitudinal edges of material 72 but results in a pocket of somewhat less finished appearance by reason of the exposed edges. It will thus be apparent that pocket blank 70a is substantially similar to pocket blank 10a shown in Figure 10, except that adhesive area 80 and upper end 82 are diagonally rather than perpendicularly oriented with respect to the side of the pocket blank.
Referring to Figures 21 and 22, a garment panel 86 wherein a pocket is desired is prepared to receive pocket blank 70. The material of garment panel 86 can comprise any suitable natural or synthetic fabric, the composition of which is not critical to the invention. Garment panel 86 is shown with the inside surface up and can comprise, for example, a left or right front trousers panel.
To prepare garment panel 86, a pocket opening is formed in one corner thereof. As illustrated, a slit or cut 88 of predetermined length is made inward from top edge 90 of panel 86. Another slit or cut 92 extends from the end of cut 88 to side edge 94 of panel 86 so that piece 96 can be removed therefrom.
Preferably, a small cut 98 is made at the junction of cuts 88 and 92 so that the edges of panel 86 defined thereby can be folded back. In addition, another small cut 100 is preferably made in side edge 94 below cut 92 so that a portion of the side edge can be folded inwardly. Piece 96 is then removed and discarded or utilized for belt loop construction, as desired.
The pocket blank 70 and an adhesive strip 102 are then positioned on the inside surface of garment panel 86, as shown in Figure 22. Upper end 82 of pocket blank 70 is positioned beneath edge 92a previously formed by cut 92. Adhesive strip 102 is then placed on garment panel 86 between edge 92a and end 82 of pocket blank 70. Adhesive strip 102 preferably consists of a piece of extruded fusible adhesive material carried on a backing layer (not shown). By this means, strip 102 can be positioned on garment panel 86 and partially activated through the backing layer to secure it in place. The backing layer (not shown) can then be peeled away to expose the outside of adhesive strip 102.
Referring to Figure 23, edge 88a, edge 92a, and that portion of garment panel edge 94 above cut 100 are then folded inwardly. Preferably, that portion of right edge 94 is folded inwardly against pocket blank 70 before edge 92a and adhesive strip 102 are folded thereover. Adhesive strip 102 is then activated to bond pocket blank 70 to garment panel 86. Activation of the adhesive may be accomplished, for example, with a heated press or other means capable of converting the adhesive from a solid state to a plastic state as previously explained herein with regard to the first inventive embodiment illustrated in Figures 1-17. Pocket blank 70 is thus adhesively secured at the upper end thereof to garment panel 86.
An optional reinforcing stitch 104 can be added for purposes of reinforcement. Stitch 104 extends alongside the lower edge of pocket opening 106 and interconnects pocket blank 70 and garment panel 86.
Stitch 104 preferably extends through the outside surface of garment panel 86 to lend a handmade appearance to the garment.
Before pocket blank 70 is folded about fold line 78 and closed, a facing strip 108 is attached to the pocket blank in accordance with the preferred practice of the invention. Facing strip 108 is secured to pocket blank 70 by means of adhesive area 80, and is dimensioned to cover pocket opening 106 after closing and sealing the pocket blank. Facing strip 108 preferably extends across pocket blank 70 between the inwardly folded edge portions thereof and may extend beneath the folded edge portions. It will be understood that facing strip 108 does not cover adhesive areas 74 and is adhesively secured by adhesive area 80 to pocket blank 70 at the lower end of the facing strip only.
Referring to Figures 24-26, a second garment panel 110 is preferably joined to garment panel 86 before pocket blank 70 is closed and sealed. Garment panels 86 and 110 are interconnected in conventional fashion by stitching 112 joining edge 94 of garment panel 86 and edge 114 of panel 110 to form a plain seam. Pocket blank 70 is then folded to position facing strip 108 over pocket opening 106 and close the pocket. Preferably, stitching 112 extends upwardly to interconnect facing strip 108 and second garment panel 110 as can be seen in Figure 26. The pocket is sealed by securing the edges of the transversely folded pocket blank 70.
Adhesive areas 74 are utilized to secure the folded pocket blank 70 to garment panel 86. The upper portion of left adhesive area 74 adhesively interconnects pocket blank 70 and the folded back edge portion 88a of garment panel 86. The upper portion of right adhesive area 74 adhesively interconnects pocket blank 70 with the edge of facing strip 108, which is secured to garment panel 86 by seam 112 as shown in Figure 26.
In the alternative, as shown in Figure 27, the upper portion of right adhesive area 74 can be employed to adhesively connect pocket blank 70 to the folded back edge 114 of garment panel 110. One side of folded pocket blank 70 would thus cover a portion of seam 113 to improve the interior finish of the garment.
Referring again to Figure 24, stitched bar tacks 116 are provided next through both layers of pocket blank 70, and edge portion 92a of garment panel 86.
The bar tacks 116 are located at each end of edge portion 92a as can be seen best in Figure 28. The various components of the pocket are thus mechanically interconnected by bar tacks 116, which may also comprise staples, rivets or suitable adhesive if desired. Bar tacks 116 thus function to reinforce the pocket construction and further serve to lend a handmade appearance to the garment. A waistband of conventional construction is ultimately added overthe upper end of closed pocket blank 70 and across the upper edges of panels 86 and 110 in finishing construction of the garment, which has been described as a pair of trousers for purposes of illustration here.
Figure 28 illustrates a partial front view of trousers 118 incorporating garment panels 86 and 110 with a pocket construction in accordance with the second embodiment of the invention. The pocket in trousers 118 is a western-type pocket. Pocket opening 106 is defined by facing strip 108 in conjunction with the folded, adhesively secured and stitched portions of garment panel 86. Awaistband 120 extends across the tops of panels 86 and 110. A right front trousers pocket is shown for illustrative purposes in Figure 28; however, it will be understood that the inventive method described herein can be utilized to construct left front trouser pockets as well.
With reference to Figures 29 and 30, there is shown a first modification of the pocket constructed according to the second embodiment of the invention. The pocket illustrated is basically the pocket shown in Figure 28 except that the cut defining the lower edge of the pocket opening 106 is not notched, but extends straight to the seam 112 between panels 86 and 110. The modification shown in Figures 29 and 30 includes the addition of pocket welt 122 which is of substantially similar construction to welt 44 utilized in the first inventive embodiment herein.
Welt 122 is positioned on the inside of folded edge portion 92a and adhesively secured thereto by means of adhesive strip 124 before provision of stitching 126 therethroug h, closure of pocket blank 70 and provision of bar tacks 116 therethrough.
Preferably, the lower edge of welt 122 is secured to the inner pocket panel of pocket blank 70 with an adhesive strip 127. The method of constructing pockets according to the second embodiment of the invention can thus be readily modified to generate a welted front pocket construction.
Figures 31-33 show three other types of front pockets which can be constructed by the method comprising the second embodiment of the invention. The configuration of the folded edge portion of garment panel 86 which defines the shape of the pocket opening is the only difference between these three types of pockets. Figure 31 shows a scoop type pocket wherein the edge portion 128 is curved rather than angular. Figure 32 shows another form of scoop pocket in which the edge portion 130 of garment panel 86 is J-shaped. Figure 33 shows a slash type pocket wherein the edge portion 128 extends in a straight line across one corner of garment panel 86.
It will be understood that each of these pockets can be constructed simply by forming the particular pocket opening desired into garment panel 86 and otherwise proceeding in all other respects under the pocket construction method comprising the second embodiment of the invention.
From the foregoing, it will be understood that the present invention comprises a method of constructing pockets which incorporates numerous advantages over the prior art. One important advantage deriving from the method of the invention involves the fact that numerous manual operations which were heretofore required in the construction of pockets have been eliminated. Other important benefits derive from the extensive use of fusible materials in the construction process. A further advantage is the fact that all steps of the method, including the steps of adhesively securing sections of the pocket by activation of fusible materials, are performed from the inside of the garment so that the outside surface of the garment is protected from damage. Other advantages deriving from the use of the invention will readily suggest themselves to those skilled in the art.
Although particular embodiments of the invention have been illustrated in the accompanying Drawings and described in the foregoing Detail Description, it will be understood that the application not limited to the embodiments disclosed, but is intended to embrace any alternatives, modifications, rearrangements and substitutions of parts and elements as fall within the spirit and scope of the invention.
Claims (23)
1. A pocket construction method in which a generally rectangular pocket blank is connected to a garment panel adjacent to a pocket opening formed by removal of a corner of the garment panel, said pocket blank being transversely folded to form inner and outer pocket panels with a facing strip connected to said pocket blank, said pocket panels being secured along the longitudinal edges thereof to seal the pocket, the method also comprising::
folding a portion ofthe garment panel defining said pocket opening backwardly over a portion of the pocket blank,
adhesively securing the pocket blank to said garment panel,
positioning the facing strip adjacent to the outer pocket panel such that the pocket opening in the garment panel is covered when the pocket blank is folded transversely, and
securing said facing strip to said outer pocket panel.
2. A pocket construction according to Claim 1, wherein the step of securing the facing strip to the outer pocket panel is characterized by the use of adhesive to effect adhesive interconnection.
3. A pocket construction according to Claim 1, wherein the pocket blank includes a generally transverse strip of fusible adhesive material attached to one side thereof, and wherein the step of securing the facing strip to the outer pocket panel is accomplished by activating said adhesive strip.
4. A pocket construction according to any of
Claims 1 to 3 including the step of:
providing a stitch adjacent to the pocket opening extending through the garment panel, facing strip and at least one of the pocket panels to reinforce the pocket.
5. A pocket constructed according to the method of any-of Claims 1 to 4.
6. A method of constructing a pocket in a garment panel comprising the steps of:
forming a pocket opening in the garment panel;
positioning a pocket blank on the garment panel with one end of said blank adjacent to said pocket opening;
folding a portion of the edge ofthe garment panel defining the pocket opening backward over a portion ofthe pocket blank;
adhesively securing the pocket blank to the garment panel;
transversely folding the pocket blank to form inner and outer pocket panels interconnected by a fold at one end thereof; and
adhesively interconnecting the pocket panels along the longitudinal edges thereof to complete construction of the pocket.
7. The method of Claim 6, wherein the step of forming a pocket opening in the garment panel comprises the step of:
removing a corner from said garment panel, said corner being defined by intersecting top and side panel edges.
8. The method of Claim 6 or Claim 7, wherein the step of adhesively securing the pocket blank to the garment panel comprises the steps of:
placing adhesive material between the pocket blank and the edge portion of the garment panel folded thereover; and
activating said adhesive material to effect adhesive connection.
9. The method according to Claim 8, wherein the adhesive material is selected from nylon, polyester and polyamide materials.
10. The method of any of Claims 6 to 9, including the step of:
providing a stitch adjacent to the pocket opening extending through the garment panel and at least one of the pocket panels to reinforce the pocket construction.
11. The method of any of Claims 6 to 9 including the step of:
placing a facing strip behind the pocket opening in the garment panel and adjacent to the outer pocket panel; and
securing the facing strip to the outer pocket panel.
12. The method of any of Claims 6 to 9 including the steps of:
placing a pocket welt within the pocket opening and adjacent to the folded over portion of the garment panel; and
securing said pocket welt to said garment panel.
13. A pocket constructed according to the method of any of Claims 6 to 12.
14. A method of constructing a pocket in a garment panel with a pocket blank, comprising the steps of:
forming a predetermined pocket opening in the garment panel, said opening being defined by at least one edge of said garment panel:
positioning the pocket blank on the inside surface of said garment panel with one end of said blank adjacent to the pocket opening formed therein;
folding an edge of said garment panel defining the pocket opening backwardly over a portion of the pocket blank;
adhesively interconnecting the pocket blank and garment panel;
positioning a facing strip behind the pocket opening formed in said garment panel;
transversely folding the pocket blank to form inner and outer pocket panels with said facing strip located adjacent to said outer pocket panel;
securing the facing strip to the outer pocket panel; and
adhesively interconnecting the inner and outer pocket panels along the longitudinal edges thereof to complete construction of the pocket.
15. The method of Claim 14, wherein the step of adhesively securing the pocket blank to the garment panel comprises the steps of:
placing the adhesive material between the pocket blank and the edge portion of the garment panel folded thereover; and
activating said adhesive material to effect adhesive interconnection between the pocket blank and garment panel.
16. The method according to Claim 14 or Claim 15, wherein the adhesive material is selected from nylon, polyester and polyamide materials.
17. The method of any of Claims 14to 16 including the step of:
providing a stitch adjacent to the pocket opening and extending through the garment panel and at least one of the pocket panels to reinforce the pocket.
18. The method of any of Claims 14to 17 including the steps of:
placing a pocket welt within the pocket opening and adjacent to the folded over portion of the garment panel; and
securing said pocket welt to said garment panel.
19. The method of any of Claims 14to 18 including the step of:
inwardly folding the longitudinal edges of the pocket blank before the transverse folding step so that said edges are inside the completed pocket.
20. The pocket constructed according to the method of Claims 14to 19.
21. The method of any of Claims 6 to 19 wherein the pocket blank is of generally rectangular form.
22. A method of constructing a pocket in a garment panel substantially as herein before particularly described and as illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
23. A pocket constructed in accordance with the method of Claim 22.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US4233379A | 1979-05-25 | 1979-05-25 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
GB2049398A true GB2049398A (en) | 1980-12-31 |
GB2049398B GB2049398B (en) | 1983-02-23 |
Family
ID=21921301
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
GB8014434A Expired GB2049398B (en) | 1979-05-25 | 1980-05-01 | Pocket construction |
Country Status (8)
Country | Link |
---|---|
JP (1) | JPS55158306A (en) |
AU (1) | AU531683B2 (en) |
CA (1) | CA1139277A (en) |
CH (1) | CH643990A5 (en) |
DE (1) | DE3017678A1 (en) |
FR (1) | FR2457078A1 (en) |
GB (1) | GB2049398B (en) |
IT (1) | IT8048660A0 (en) |
Family Cites Families (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US2524879A (en) * | 1949-02-21 | 1950-10-10 | Capuano Crescenzo | Hip pocket |
FR2245309A1 (en) * | 1973-09-27 | 1975-04-25 | Dollfus Mieg Et Cie | Attaching a pocket to a garment - using lines of thermoplastic adhesive |
IL54352A (en) * | 1977-07-28 | 1980-02-29 | Haggar Co | Method of constructing pockets in garments and pockets so constructed |
-
1980
- 1980-04-14 AU AU57422/80A patent/AU531683B2/en not_active Ceased
- 1980-04-30 CH CH337280A patent/CH643990A5/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1980-04-30 JP JP5642180A patent/JPS55158306A/en active Pending
- 1980-05-01 GB GB8014434A patent/GB2049398B/en not_active Expired
- 1980-05-08 DE DE19803017678 patent/DE3017678A1/en not_active Withdrawn
- 1980-05-12 CA CA000351743A patent/CA1139277A/en not_active Expired
- 1980-05-13 IT IT8048660A patent/IT8048660A0/en unknown
- 1980-05-22 FR FR8011408A patent/FR2457078A1/en active Granted
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
IT8048660A0 (en) | 1980-05-13 |
DE3017678A1 (en) | 1980-12-04 |
FR2457078A1 (en) | 1980-12-19 |
GB2049398B (en) | 1983-02-23 |
FR2457078B1 (en) | 1985-05-17 |
CH643990A5 (en) | 1984-07-13 |
AU531683B2 (en) | 1983-09-01 |
AU5742280A (en) | 1980-11-27 |
JPS55158306A (en) | 1980-12-09 |
CA1139277A (en) | 1983-01-11 |
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Legal Events
Date | Code | Title | Description |
---|---|---|---|
PCNP | Patent ceased through non-payment of renewal fee |