CA1139277A - Pocket construction - Google Patents

Pocket construction

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Publication number
CA1139277A
CA1139277A CA000351743A CA351743A CA1139277A CA 1139277 A CA1139277 A CA 1139277A CA 000351743 A CA000351743 A CA 000351743A CA 351743 A CA351743 A CA 351743A CA 1139277 A CA1139277 A CA 1139277A
Authority
CA
Canada
Prior art keywords
pocket
panel
blank
garment
garment panel
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
CA000351743A
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Joseph W.A. Off
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Haggar Co
Original Assignee
Haggar Co
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Haggar Co filed Critical Haggar Co
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of CA1139277A publication Critical patent/CA1139277A/en
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/20Pockets; Making or setting-in pockets

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Abstract

POCKET CONSTRUCTION

ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE
In a method of constructing pockets, a pocket blank is preferably folded first along both longitudinal edges, and then transversely so that the edges are inside the two resultant pocket panels. The inner pocket panel is adhesively secured to the inside of a garment, followed by formation of a slit of uredete mined shape in the adhesive connection therebetween.
The edges of the slit are then folded back and adhesively secured to produce a pocket slot. Preferably, a pocket welt is secured next across the bottom of the slot. If desired, another welt or a pocket flap can be secured across the top of the slot followed by placement of a facing strip thereover. Stitched bar tacks are then provided adjacent the slot, after which the pocket panels are closed and sealed to complete construction of the pocket.
In another embodiment, a pocket blank is positioned beneath a pocket opening formed in the garment panel. The lower edge of the opening is then folded back and adhesively secured to one end of the pocket blank. If desired, a stitch can be added to reinforce interconnection of the garment and pocket blank. A facing strip is attached near other end of the pocket blank so that the strip covers the pocket opening after the pocket blank is transversely folded and sealed to complete construction of the pocket.

Description

1139z~7 BACKGRO[~ND AND SU~MARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates generally to a method of making pockets, and more particularly to a method of making pockets in any garment requiring pockets.
In the manufacture of garments, pockets are provided chiefly as a convenient means for carr~iny useful articles. Such useful items may include, for example, currency, change, keys, a wallet, a handkerchief and so forth. The pockets are integrated into the garment and take the yeneral form of a pouch open at one 1~ end to perrnit easy access to the contents.
'.~o basic types of pocket construction are used. In the patch-type pocket, a layer or patch of material is attached directly to the outside surface of the garment. The patch pocket is usually sewn only at the side and bottom edges so that articles can be received between the garment and pocket layers through the unsecured upper end. Patch pockets are thus easily constructed and attached to the garment, and are utilized most popularly in garments having less formal or leisure applications. In contrast to the patch-type pocket, the standard pocket is positioned on 2U the inside of the garment. A slot in the garment permits access to the standard pocket. Consequently a standard pocket occupies a hidden, protected location in the garment, which therefore presents a rnuch neater, finished appearance. However, construction of the standard pocket requires numerous manual operations including material cutting, positioning, sewing and trimming. These manual operations are time consuming and therefore expensive in terms of both labor and material expenditure.

_ 3- _ ~3C32'~7 In accordance with one aspect of the invention there is provided in a pocket construction method of the type wherein a generally rectangular pocket blank is connected to a garment panel adjacent to a pocket opening formed by removal of a corner of the garment panel, said pocket blank being transversely folded to form inner and outer pocket panels and being secured along the longitudinal edges of the pocket panels to seal the pocket, the improvement comprising the steps of: folding a portion of the garment panel defining said pocket opening backwardly over a portion of the inner pocket panel; and adhesively securing the inner pocket panel of the pocket blank to the garment panel.
In accordance with another aspect of the invention there is provided a pocket construction, comprising: a garment panel; said garment panel having a pocket opening formed by removal of a corner of the garment panel; a length of material defining a pocket blank; said pocket blank being positioned adjacent to the pocket opening in said garment panel and being folded transversely into inner and outer pocket panels interconnected at the lower ends by a fold; means located along a portion of the pocket opening for adhesively interconnecting the inner pocket panel and said garment panel; and means for securing the top ends and longitudinal edges of the pocket panels to co~plete construction of the pocket.

Z~7 The present inven~ion comprises a method of constructing pockets in yarments which overcomes the foregoing and other problems lony since associated with the prior art. In accordance with the broader aspects of the invention, a length of pocket material is folded to provide two pocket panels interconnected by a fold with the obverse sides thereof facing inwardly.
Preferably, ~ortions of both longitudinal edges of the folded pocket are aahesively secured in one embodiment of the invention before securing the inner pocket panel to the inside surface of the garment. A pocket slot is then formed in the garment and selected components of the pocket are then assembled before adhesively securing the remaining peripheries of the pocket panels. In another embodiment, a pocket blank is positioned beneath a pocket opening formed in the garment panel before the edye thereof is folded back and adhesively secured to the pocket blank. By these rnethods, garment pockets are constructed from the interior o~ the garment with a minimurn number of manual operations.
In accordance with more specific aspects of the
2~ invention, a length of material defining a pocket blank is first provided. Preferably, three areas of fusible adheshive material are located on the same side of the pocket blank; along portions of both longitudinal edyes, and transversely in a strip near one end thereof. The pocket blank is first folded along the longitudinal edges, and later transversely so that each folded edye portion having fusible adhesive material thereon is adjacent th~ remaining portion of the same folded edge.

92r1~

Alternatively, th~ areas of fusible adhesive material can be provided on opposite sides of the pocket blank; along portions of both longitudinal ed~es on the obverse side, and transversely in a strip near one end of the reverse side. Such S a pocket blank is simply folded transversely in order to overlap each adhesive edge portion.
In accordance with the preferred conscruction, the fusible adhesive material in the vicinity of the fold interconnectiny the inner and outer pocket blank panels is then activated to adhesively secure the bottom section of the pocket.
Preferably, activation of the fusible adhesive material is accomplished by engaging the pocket blank with a heated press, ultrasonic means, or a radiant source capable of convertiny the adhesive frorn solid to plastic state.
After the pocket blank panels have been folded and adhesively secured in part, the inner pocket panel is adhesively secured to the inside surface of the garment by activating the transverse strip of fusible adhesive material. A slit, from which the pocket opening is constructed, is then formed through the 2~ adhesive connection between the garment and inner pocket panel.
Depending upon the particular type of pocket desired, any of several welt, flap and facing strip combinations can be adhesively secured across or within the pocket opening. Stitched ~ar tacks are tnen provided at each end of the pocket opening to mechanically interconnect the garment, inner pocket panel and selected pocket comporlents. At this juncture, the internal asser~l~ly oE the pocket can be inspected before closing and adhesively securing the remainillg section of the outer pocket panel to the inner pocket panel to complete the pocket construction.

1~3~ 7 Accordiny to anoth~r embodiment of the invention, a ~ocket blank is positioned on the inside surface of a garment panel beneath a pocket opening formed therein. The pocket blank is substantially similar to that employed in the f irst inventive embodiment, except that one end thereof is trisnmed to correspond with the lower edge of the particular pocket opening. The lower edge of the opening is then folded back and adhesively secured to the pocket blank. If desired, a sti~ch can be added along the edge of the pocket opening to reinforce interconnection of the pocket blank and garment panel.
A facing strip is then positioned to cover the pocket openiny when the pocket blank is later folded transversely to form inner and outer pocket panels. Preferably, the facing strip lS is attached to the lower end of the pocket blank so that the strip is properly positioned upon folding of the pocket blank.
Constructioll of the pocket is completed by adhesively securing the remaininy periphery of the folded pocket blank. Stitched bar tacks can be provided at the ends of the pocket openiny to mechanically interconnect the garment and pocket, if desired.

11~9~

DESCRIPTION OF THE ~RAWINGS
A more complete understanding of the invention may be had by reference to the following Detailed Description when taken in conjunction with the accompanying Drawings, wherein:
FIGURE 1 is a block diagram illustrating a method of constructing pockets for garments incorporating the invention;
FIGURE 2 is an illustration of a lenyth of pocket material useful in forming a pocket blank;
FIGURE 3 is an illustration of the pocket blank shown in FIGUR~' 2 after foldiny;
FIGURE 4 is an illustration of the folded pocket blank positioned on the inside of a garment panel;
FIGURES 5, 6, and 7 are illustrations of successive steps in a method of constructing pockets in accordance with the inventiorl;
FIGURE 8 is an illustration of the inside surface of a ~arMent having a pocket formed in accordance with the invention;
FIGURE 9 is an illustration of the outside surface of a garment having a pocket formed in accordance with the invention;
2~ FIGURE 10 is an illustration of an alternative to the pocket blank shown in FIGURE 2;
FIGURE 11 is a sectional view taken yenerally along lines 11-11 in FIGURE 9;
FIGURE 12 is an illustration of the outside surface of a garment having a pocket formed in accordance with a first modification of the invention;

1~92'-~7 FIGURE 13 is a pa~ti~l sectional view taken generally along lines 13-13 in FIGURE 12;
FIGURE 14 is an illustration of the outside surface of a garment having a pocket formed in accordance with a second modification of the invention;
FIGURE 15 is a partial sectional view taken generally along lines 15-15 in FIGURE 14;
FIGURE, 16 is an illustration of the outside surface of a ~arment haviny a pocket formed in accordance with a third modification of the invention;
FIGURE 17 is a partial sectional view taken generally along lines 17-17 in FIGURE 16;
FIGURES 18 and 19 are illustrations of a pocket blank useful in a method of constructing pockets according to a second embodiment of the invention;
FIGURE 20 is an illustration of an alternative to the pocket blank shown in FIGURES 18 and 19;
FIGURES 21-24 are illustrations of steps in the pocket construction method according to the second embodiment of the 2~ invention;
FIGURES 25 and 26 are sectional views taken along lines 25-25 and 26-26 of FIGURE 23 in the direction of the arrows;
FIGURE 27 is a sectional view similar to E`IGURE 26;
E'IGURE 28 is an illustration of the outside surface of a garment after completion of the pocket; and EIGUXES 29-33 are illustrations showing modifications of the second embodiment of the invention.

~392~.~7 D~TAIL~D DE~CRIPTION OF THE INV~NTION
~eferring now to the Drawings, and particularly to FIGURE 1 thereof, there is illustrated a method of constructing pockets incorporatiny the invention. The method includes the S utilization of fusible adhesive materials to eliminate many heretofore required time consuming and costly manual operations in pocket construction. The method of the invention can be used in the manufacture of any garment utilizing pockets. ~se of the netilod results in a strong, durable pocket construction of 1~ pleasing appearance.
Xeferring particularly to FIGURE 2, there is shown a pocket blank 10 useful in the practice of the invention. Pocket blank 10 is de~icted in a flat, unfolded initial condition with the reverse side up. Pocket blank 10 is formed from a length of pocket material 12 having sufficient overall dimensions to allow construction of a pocket having predetermined depth and width. Material 12 can comyrise any natural or synthetic cloth material suitable for use in pocket construction. It will be understood that the exact composition of pocket material 12 is 2U not critical to the practice of the invention.
In particular, pocket blank 10 comprises a rectangular piece of pocket material 12 haviny adhesive areas 14 located adjacent part of both lonyitudinal edges of the reverse side thereof. Adhesive areas 14 can be formed by attaching a thin layer of fusible adhesive rnaterial to the selected locations.
The fusible material is prefera~ly thermally responsive and may comprise ribbons or strips of extruded polyamide, nylon or polyester materials of the type manufactured by General Fabric Fusiny Company of Cincinnati, Ohio. If desired, the fusible adhesive could be extruded directly onto pocket material 12.
Adhesive areas 14 are of predetermined width and length, extending fronl upper end 16 to fold line 18 on material 12. Preferably, pocket blank lO also includes a transverse adhesive area 20 S positioned in spaced, parallel relationship near end 16 and across the reverse side of pocket blank 10. It will thus be apparent that adhesive areas 14 and 20 are formed by applying strips of fusible adhesive Inaterial to the same side of pocket material 12.
Two successive folding steps are then undertaken. The lonyitudinal edges of pocket blank 10 are first folded inwardly in the directions of arrows 22 in FIGURE 2. After this folding step, adhesive areas 14 face the same direction as the obverse side, while adhesive area 20 remains oriented in the reverse direction. Thus, the edge portions of pocket blank 10 face in a direction opposite the original direction. After the folding of both lonyitudinal edges, pocket blank 10 is folded transversely alony fold line 18. As is best shown in FIG~RE 3, pocket blank 10 now comprises inner panel 24 and outer panel 26 interconnected at one end by fold 28. It will thus be apparent that after the lonyitudinal and transverse folding operations, adhesive areas 14 extend continuously between end 16 and fold 2~ within the adjacent, folded longitudinal edges of panels 24 and 26.
~loreover, all raw edges are turned inwardly and are therefore concealed.
With the pocket blank 10 folded as shown in FIGURE 3, activation of the fusible adhesive material between the adjacent longitudinal edyes of panels 24 and 26 next occurs. Activation of the adhesive material is preferably accomplished by engaging 1~L35~Z77 heated means (not shown) with outer panel 26 of pocket blank 10.
The means for activating the adhesive may comprise; for example, a heated press, ultrasonic or microwave means, or a radiant source capable of converting the adhesive from a solid to a plastic state. The temperature generated by and duration of enyayelnent of the activatiny means are sufficient to melt the desired portions of adhesive areas 14, whereby the edges of pocket ~lank 10 are permeated with melted adhesive to become bonded together. It will be appreciated that use of a heated lU press for activatiny the fusible adhesive material to secure the edges of panels 24 and 26 would simultaneously function to press any wrinkles or folds in the edge portions. Furthermore, it will be understood that this means of adhesive connection is strong and durable as well as resistant to garment cleaning processes.
Preferably, only a portion of each adhesive area 14 in the vicinity of folà 2~ is initially activated. Thus, only the lower edye sections of folded pocket blank 10 are adhesively secured at first. This allows the upper section of outer panel 26 to be laid back exposing part of the pocket interior.
Referring momentarily to FI~URE 10, there is shown an alternate pocket blank lOa which could be substituted for pocket blank 10. Pocket blank lOa differs from pocket blank 10 primarily by virtue of the fact that adhesive areas 14 and 20 are located on opposite sides of the length of material 12, rather than on the same side. This eliminates the step of inwardly folding the longitudinal edges prior to the transverse folding operation.
~ith pocket blank lOa, it is necessary only that materiaI 12 be transversely folded alon-3 fold line 18 so that adheive areas 14 1~39~:~77 are inside the resultant panels 24 and 26. It will be appreciated that a relatively narrower length of material 12 can be formed into pocket blank lOa, which results in material savings and therefore cost savinys. Pocket blank lOa rniyht be used, for example, in an inexpensive garment since the exposed edges result in a less finished appearance. Raveling of the edges is prevented, however, by adhesive permeation of rnaterial 12 in areas 14 after activation.
~hile it is preferable that the steps of transversely folding the pocket blank 10 and then adhesively securing the lower edge sections thereof be carried out at this staye of the invention, it will be understood that these steps can occur later wlthout departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
For instance, these steps could take place after the pocket blank 10 is attached to the garment, or after other subsequent steps.
With a section of upper panel 26 laid back as shown in FIGURE 4, the folded pocket blank 10 is then positioned on the inside surface of a yarment 30 wherein the pocket is desired. ~he material of yarment 30 can comprise any natural or synthetic Z0 cloth, the exact composition of which is not critical to the practice of the invention. In particular, the reverse side of panel 24 is placed downward with adhesive area 20 situated over the area in which the pocket slot will be formed. It will be recalled that the placement of adhesive area 20 on pocket blank 10 is preferred but not required in the practice of the invention.
Alternatively, in the absence of adhesive area 20 on pocket blank lo, a corresponding adhesive area initially formed on garment 30 at the location of the pocket slot to be formed can be utilized, 1~9~
i -if desired. With the folded pocket blan~ 10 thus positioned, the fusible material of adhesive area 20 is activated to adhesively secure folded pocket blank 10 to garment 30.
Followiny the step of adhesively securing pocket blank 10 to garment 30, a transverse slit 32 is forMed throuyh garment 30, activated adhesive area 20 and inner panel 24. Slit 32 is thus made through the adhesive connection between pocket blank 10 and garment 30 so that the edges formed thereby are not unattached ~ut are bonded together. The preferred configuration of slit 32 includes Y-shaped ends. This particular slit configuration is most important because two sets of opposing flaps, flap sets 34 and 36, are so formed.
I-laving made slit 32, the flap sets 34 and 36 are folded inwardly against the obverse side of inner panel 24 of pocket blank 10 as shown in FIG~RE 5. This exposes a rectangular opening through garment 30 and one panel of pocket blank 10 which will serve as pocket slot 38. Flap sets 34 and 36 must then be secured in their folded back positions.
The flap sets 34 and 36 are secured down with adhesive ~0 strip 40. In accordance with one construction, strip 40 comprises a rectangular piece of fusible adhesive including a cutout area corresponding to pocket slot 38. Adhesive strip 40 is laid over flap sets 34 and 36 in surrounding relationship with slot 3~.
It will be apparent that more than one separate adhesive strip can ~e positioned over flap sets 34 and 36 adjacent slot 38, if desired. It will be appreciated that adhesive strip 40, or its e~uivalent, could be extruded directly over flap sets 34 and 36, if desired. Adhesive strip 40 preferably consists of a ~iece of extruded adhesive material carried on one side of 1~3~277 a backing layer (not shown). By this means, adhesive strip 40 is laid with the adhesive side downward. The fusible adhesive material of strip 40 can then be activated to secure flap sets 34 and 36 in place. ~ollowiny activation of adhesive strip 40, the backing (not shown) can then be peeled away to expose the top side of the adhesive strip. At this point it will thus be apparent that adhesive areas surround pocket slot 38.
To achieve a pocket construction of the desired type and finish, olle or rnore pocket welts, a pocket flap, a facing 1~ strip, or combinations thereof are next attached. The materials of these pocket corlponents may comprise any natural or synthetic cloth, the exact com~osition of which is not critical to the practice of the invention. If desired, any of these pocket components can comprise a material matching the garment 30.
Depending upon the style or fashion, a welt could also be formed of a material contrasting with yarment 30.
If desired, a welt 44 is first laid over the lower edge of pocket slot 38 and a portion of adhesive strip 40 as shown in EIGURE 6. Welt 44 preferably comprises a relatively narrow 2~ piece of folded material with sufficient length to span panel 24 between adhesive areas 14. The folded edge of welt 44 is positioned across slot 38 to provide a finished appearance to the pocket opening. The fusible material comprising adhesive strip 4~ is then activated to secure welt 44 to panel 24.
If desired, a pocket facing strip can then be laid over welt 44 and the relnaining portion of pocket slot 38 as shown in FIGUR~ 7. Preferably, facing strip 46 is of sufficient width :1139z~7 to cover welt 44 and pocket slot 38 without entirely covering the portion of adhesive strip 40 between slot 38 and end 16.
Thus, the remaining exposed portion of adhesive strip 40 can be subsequently used to adhesively secure the ends of pocket panels S 24 and 26. It will be apparent that a wider faciny strip 46 covering the upyer section of adhesive strip 40 could be utilized.
l~ wider facing strip 46 would preferably include an adhesive area (not shown) along the upper end or the outside surface thereof, by which outer pocket panel 26 would be adhesively secured to facing strip 46 which would be adhesively secured in turn to inner pocket panel 24. As shown in FIGURE 7, facing strip 46 preferably includes adhesive area 48 along the lower end of the outside surface thereof. Adhesive area 48 comprises a layer of fusible adhesive material which will be utilized subsequently to secure outer pocket panel 26 to strip 46.
It will be appreciated that the pocket construction can include a facing strip 46 without welt 44. In the event a facing strip 46 alone is desired, a strip of material (not shown) should first be placed between the lower sections of facing strip 2~ 46 and adhesive strip 40 to act as a buffer. Such a buffer strip (not shown) would be required to prevent facing strip 46 from ~ecoming adhesively secured in surrounding relationship with pocket slot 38. Access to the interior of the pocket construction would therefore be tnaintained.
After positioning of pocket welt 44 and/or pocket facing strip ~6, stitched bar tacks SO are added at each end of pocket slot 38. Tacks 50, only one of which is shown in FIGURE 7, serve 113~3~77 to mechanically interconnec garment 30, irlller pocket panel 24, and the desired pocket components. Tacks 50 also help secure flap set 34 in a folded inward configuration. Thus, tacks 50 function to reinforce the pocket construction, and further cerve to lenà a handmade appearance to the outside of garment 30. As sh~wn, tacks 5~ mechanically interconnect garment 30, panel 24, welt 44, and facing strip 46.
Subsequent to the placernent of tacks 50, the interior assembly of the pocket can be inspected before closing panel 26 and activating the remaining adhesive areas to seal the upper section of the folded pocket blank 10. With panel 26 closed as shown in FIGURE ~, activation of adhesive area 48, the remaining portions of adhesive areas 14 and adhesive strip 40 completes the pocket construction. A cross section of a finished, single welt pocket constructed in accordance with the invention is shown in EIGURE 11. The pocket shown in FIGURE 11 includes optional stitch 45.
Turning now to FIGURES 12 and 13, the step of attaching a second pocket welt 52 as shown can be included in the invention.
In particular, second welt 52 is laid over adhesive strip 40 so as to extend across the upper edge of pockét slot 3~. This step can be carried out eithèr before or after the placement of first welt 44, but prior to the placement of facing strip 46. The fusible material comprising adhesive strip 40 is then activated to secure second welt 52 across pocket slot 3~ to panel 24. If desired, pocket facing strip 46 can then be laid over welts 44 and 52, and the remaining portion of pocket slot 38. Depending 11~92~7 u~on the width of second welt 52, it may be necessary to first position adhesive strip 54 between welt 52 and faciny strip 46 to provide for later sealiny of the upper pocket construction.
It will be apparent that the purpose of adhesive strip 54 could also be served by the initial provision of adhesive areas (not snown) at the a~propriate locations on either second welt 52 or facing strip 46, if desired. As is best shown in FIGURE 13, it will be appreciated that either adhesive strip 40 or adhesive strip 54 can be provided with sufficient width to secure the upper end of pocket panel 26 to inner panel 24 and/or the inside of yarment 30. An optional stitch 55 can be added for reinforcement.
Stitch 55 is similar to optional stitch 45, but is utilized to interconnect second welt 52, the upper half of flap set 36, and inner panel 2~. Stitch 55 preferably extends along substantially the entire width of pocket slot 38. After positioning of welts 44 and 52, and faciny strip 46, stitched bar tacks 50 are added to mechanically interconnect the desired componentsr inner panel ~4 and garment 30. Panel 26 is then closed and sealed in the usual manner to complete the pocket construction. Consequently, it will be understood that the method of the invention can be utilized to construct pockets having double welts.
Referriny to FIGURES 14 and 15, there is shown a simulated double welt 56 which can be incorporated into the invention. In place of single welt 44, welt 56 can be laid over adhesive strip 40 across the lower edge of yocket slot 38 Simulated double welt 56 comprises a length of suitable material folded so as to yive the appearance of a double welt construction.

113~277S

As is best shown in FIGURE 15, simulated double welt 56 achieves this purpose by being folded and flattened in an uneven ~
confi~uration. No additional adhesive strips are required when ~sing welt 56. After the positioning of simulated double welt 56, the fusible material comprising adhesive strip 40 is then activated to secure welt 56 to panel 24 across pocket slot 38.
An oytional stitch 57 can be added for reinforcement. Stitch 57 is similar to stitch 45, and is utilized to interconnect double welt 56, the lower half of flap set 36, and inner panel 1~ ; 24. Stitch 57 preferably extends along substantially the entire width of pocket slot 38. If desired, pocket facing strip 46 can then be laid over welt 56 and the remaining portion of pocket slot 38, followed by the placement of stitched bar tacks 50.
Panel 26 can then be closed and sealed in the usual manner.
Consequently, it will be understood that the method of the invention can be utilized to construct a simulated double welt pocket.
With reference now to FIGURES 16 and 17, placement of pocket flap 58 can be incorporated in the method of the invention.
The wi~th of flap 58 is such that it can be positioned within pocket slot 38. Flap 58 can be utilized with or without welt 44 and/or faciny strip 46. Preferably, flap 58 is utilized in conjunction with welt 44 and faciny strip 46. Either before or after the placement of welt 44, flap 58 is positioned within the pocket slot 38 so that the ~pper end of flap 58 overlays adhesive strip 40 adjacent the upper side of slot 38. The fusible material comprising a~hesive strip 40 is activated to secure flap 58 to panel 24. An optional stitch 59 can be added for reinforcement.
Stitch 59 is sirnilar to stitch 45, but is utilized to interconnect 1~3~ 7 flap 58, the upper half of flap set 36, and inner panel 24.
Stitch 59 preferably extends along substantially the entire width of pocket slot 38. If desired, facing strip 46 can then be laid over the upper end of flap 58, welt 44, and over the remaining portion of pocket slot 38. Adhesive strip 60 is positioned between the upper end of flap 58 and facing strip 46 to provide a means for sealing the upper end of the pocket construction. It will be appreciated that adhesive areas (not shown) can be provided initially at the appropriate locations o flap 58 and/or facing strip 46 to function in place of adhesive strip 60, if desired. Stitched bar tacks 50 are then added at each end of slot 38 to mechanically interconnect garment 30, panel 24, and the desired pocket components. It will be understood that tacks 50 do not extend through flap 58. Following formation of tacks 50, panel 26 is closed and the remaining adhesive areas are secured to seal the upper section of the pocket construction.
Consequently, it will be understood that the method of the invention can also be utilized to construct pockets having flaps.
The pocket construction method described above and illustrated in FIGURES 1-17 comprises a first embodiment of the invention which is particularly suited for fabricating back pockets in trousers, or other types of pockets which are located within a garment panel and away from the periphery thereof. The method illustrated in FIGURES 1-17 is not especially desirable for front-type pockets. On the other hand, the pocket construction method shown in FIGURES 18-33 represents a second embodiment of the invention which is suitable for front trouser pockets or other pockets which may be located on a seam at the edge of a garment panel.

Z~77 . .
FIG[~RES 18 and 19 show a pocket blank 70 useful in practicillg the second embodiment of the invention herein.
Pocket blank 70 is illustrated in a flat, unfolded initial condition with the reverse side up in FIGU~E 18. Pocket S blank 70 is defined by a yenerally rectangular len~Jth of pocket material 72 of sufficient size to permit fa;)rication of the desired pocket. Material 72 can comprise any suitable natural or synthetic cloth material, the exact cornposition of which is not critical to the invention.
Adhesive areas 74 are located alongside part of both longitudinal edges of the reverse side of material 72.
Adhesive areas 74 are of predetermined width and extend from lower end 76 at least to transverse fold line 78 on material 72. Prefera~ly, pocket blank 70 also includes a generally transverse adhesive area 80 extending diagonally across the reverse side of material 72. The upper end 82 of pocket blank 70 is also angled or cut diagonally as will be explained more fully hereinafter.
Adhesive areas 74 and 80 can be formed by attaching thin layers of fusible adhesive material to pocket blank 70 in the desired locations, in a fashion similar to that described with regard to pocket blank 10. The fusible material is preferably thermally responsive and rnay comprise ribbons or strips of extruded polyamide, nylon or polyester materials of the type rnanufactured by General Fabric Fusing Company of Cincinnati, Ohio. If desired, fusible adhesive can be extruded directly onto pocket material 72.

As indicated by arrows 84 in FIGURE 18, the longitudinal edges of pocket blank 70 are turned inwardly so that adhesive areas 74 face the same direction as adhesive area 80. FIGURE 19 shows pocket blank 70 after folding the longitudinal edges thereof. It will thus be apparent that pocket blank 70 is substantially similar to pocket blank 10 utilized in the first embodiment of the invention, except that adhesive area 80 and upper end 82 are diagonally rather than perpendicularly oriented with respect to the sides of the pocket blank.
Referring to FIGURE 20, there is shown a pocket blank 70a which may be used as an alternative to pocket blank 70. In pocket blank 70a, adhesive areas 74 are provided on the same side of pocket blank 72 as adhesive area 80, rather than the opposite side thereof. mhis eliminates the step of inwardly folding the longitudinal edges of material 72 but results in a pocket of somewhat less finished appearance by reason of the exposed edges. It will thus be apparent that pocket blank 70a is substantially similar to pocket blank lOa shown in FIGURE 10, except that adhesive area 80 and upper end 82 are diagonally rather than perpendicularly oriented with respect to the side of the pocket blank.
P~eferring to FIGURES 21 and 22, a garment panel 86 wherein a pocket is desired is prepared to receive pocket blank 70. The material of garment panel 86 can comprise any suitable natural or synthetic fabric, the composition of which is not critical to the invention. Garment panel 86 is shown with the inside surface up and can comprise, for example, a left or right front trousers panel.

11392,7 ~ ~ I

To prepare garment panel 86, a pocket opening is formed in one corner thereof. As illustrated, a slit or cut ~8 of predetermined length is made inward from top edge 90 of panel 86. Another slit or cut 92 extends from the end of cut 88 to S side edge 94 of panel 86 so that piece 96 can be removed therefrom. Preferably, a small cut 98 is Inade at t~le junction of cuts 88 and 92 so that the edges of panel 86 defined thereby can be folded back. In addition, another small cut 100 is preferably made in side edye 94 below cut 92 so that a portion ; of the side edge can be folded inwardly. Piece 56 is then removed and discarded or utilized for belt loop construction, as desired.
The pocket blank 70 and an adhesive strip 102 are then positioned on the inside surface of garment panel 86, as shown in FIGUKE 22. Upper end 82 of pocket blank 70 is positioned beneath edge 92a previously formed by cut 92. Adhesive strip 102 is then placed on garment panel ~6 between edge 92a and end 82 of pocket blank 70. Adhesive strip 102 preferably consists of a piece of extruded fusible adhesive material carried on a backing layer (not shown). By this means, strip 102 can 2() be positioned on garment panel 86 and partially activated throu~h the backing layer to secure it in place. The backing layer (not sllown) can then be peeled away to expose the outside of adhesive strip 102.
Referring to FIGURE 23, edge 88a, edge 92a, and that yortion of garment panel edge 94 above cut 100 are then foided inwardly. Preferably, that portion of right edge 9~ is folded inwardly against pocket blank 70 before edge 92a and adhesive strip 102 are folded thereover. Adhesive strip 102 is then activated to bond pocket blan}; 70 to garment panel 86. Activation of the adhesive may be accomplished, for example, with a heated 11~9~

press or other means capable of converting the adhesive from a solid state to a plastic state as previously explained herein witrl reyard to the first inventive embodiment illustrated in ~`IG~RE~ 1-17. Pocket blank 70 is thus adhesively secured at the upper end thereof to garment panel 86.
~n optional reinforcing stitch 104 can be added for yurposes of reinforcement. Stitch 104 extends alongside the lower edye of pocket opening 106 and interconnects pocket blank 70 and garment panel 86. Stitch 104 preferably extends through the outside surface of garment panel 86 to lend a handmade appeararlce to the garment.
Before pocket blank 70 is folded about fold line 78 and closed, a facing strip 108 is attached to the pocket blank in accordance with the preferred practice of the invention.
Facing stri~ 108 is secured to pocket blank 70 by means of adhesive area 80, and is dimensioned to cover pocket opening 106 after closing and sealing the pocket blank. Faciny strip 108 preferably extends across pocket blank 70 between the inwardly folded edye portions thereof and may extend beneath the folded edge portions. It will be understood that facing strip 108 does not cover adhesive areas 74 and is adhesively secured by adhesive area 80 to pocket blank 70 at the lower end of the facing strip only.
Referrin~ to FIGURES 24-26, a second garment panel 110 is preferably joined to garment panel 86 before pocket blank 70 is closed and sealed. Garment panels 86 and 110 are interconnected in conventional fashion by stitching 112 joining edge 9~ of garment panel 86 and edge 114 of panel 110 to form a plain seam. Pocket blank 70 is then folded to position facing strip 108 over pocket opening 106 and close the pocket.

1~3~ 77 Preferably, stitching 112 extends upwardly to interconnect facing strip 108 and second garment panel 110 as can be seen in FIGURE
26. The pocket is sealed by securing the edges of the transversely folded pocket blank 70.
Adhesive areas 74 are utilized to secure the folded pocket blank 70 to garment panel 86. The upper portion of left adhesive area 74 adhesively interconnects pocket blank 70 and the folded back edge portion 88a of garment panel 86. The upper portion of right adhesive area 74 adhesively interconnects pocket blank 70 with the edge of facing strip 108, which is secured to garment panel 86 by seam 112 as shown in FIGURE 26.
In the alternative, as shown in FIGURE 27, the upper portion of right adhesive area 74 can be employed to adhesively connect pocket blank 70 to the folded back edge 114 of garment lS panel 110. One side of folded pocket blank 70 would thus cover a portion of seam 113 to improve the interior finish of the garment.
Referring again to FIGURE 24, stitched bar tacks 116 are provided next through both layers of pocket blank 70, and edge portion 92a of garment panel 86. The bar tacks 115 are located at each end of edge portion 92a as can be seen best in FIGURE 28. The various components of the pocket are thus mechanically interconnected by bar tacks 116, which ma~ also comprise staples, rivets or suitable adhesive if desired. Bar tacks 116 thus function to reinforce the pocket construction and further serve to lend a handmade appearance to the garment.
A waistband of conventional construction is ultimately added over the upper end of closed pocket blank 70 and across the upper edges of panels 86 and 110 in finishing construction of the garment, which has been described as a pair of trousers for purposes of illustration here.

_ . . .

;

I!

!! FIGURE 2~ illustrates a partial front view of trousers 118 incorporating garment panels 86 and 110 with a pocket construction in accordance with the second embodiment of the j invention. The pocket in trousers 118 is a western-type pocket.
l Pocket opening 106 is defined by facing strip 108 in conjunction with the folded, adhesively secured and stitched portions of garment panel 86. A waistband 120 extends across the tops of panels 86 and 110. A right front trousers pocket is shown 1 for illustrative purposes in FIGURE 28; however, it will be l~ understood that the inventive method described herein can be utilized to construct left front trouser pcckets as well.
~ With reference to FIGURES 29 and 30, there is shown ¦l a first modification of the pocket constructed according to the ,¦ second embodiment of the invention. The pocket illustrated l, is basically the pocket shown in FIGURE 2~ except that the cut defining the lower edge of the pocket opening 106 is not notched, but e~tends straiyht to the seam 112 between panels ~6 and 110.
The modification shown in FIGURES 29 and 30 includes the addition Il of pocket welt 122 which is of substantially similar construction 1I to welt 44 utilized in the first inventive embodiment herein.
Welt 122 is positioned on the inside of folded edge portion 92a ¦l and adhesively secured thereto by means of adhesive strip 124 before provision of stitching 126 therethrough, closure of Il pocket blank 70 and provision of bar tacks 116 therethrough.
Ij Prefera~ly, the lower edge of welt 122 is secured to the inner pocket panel of pocket blank 70 with an adhesive strip 127.
The method of constructing pockets according to the second embodiment of the invention can thus be readily modified to generate a welted front pocket construction.

!
Ii ~ 5 -
3~7 ,1 1~ .

FIGURES 31-33 show three other types of front pockets which can be constructed by the method comprising the second embodiment of the invention. The configuration of the folded ,~ edge portion of garment panel 86 which defines the shape ,l of the pocket opening is the only difference between these , three types of pockets. FIGURE 31 shows a scoop type pocket wherein the edge portion 128 is curved rather than angular.
, FIGUR~ 32 shows another form of scoop pocket in which the edge portion 130 of garment panel 86 is J-shaped. FIGURE 33 shows a Ij slash type pocket wherein the edge port,ion 128 extends in a ; straiyht line across one corner of garment panel 86. It will be understood that each of these pockets can be constructed simply by forming the particular pocket opening desired into garment I~ panel 86 and otherwise proceeding in all other respects under the pocket construction method comprising the second embodiment ,1 of the invention.
! From the foregoing, it will be understood that the present invention comprises a method of constructing pockets ,I which incorporates numerous advantages over the prior art. One 1l important advantage deriving from the method of the invention Il involves the fact that numerous manual operations which were l¦ heretofore required in the construction of pockets have been ,l eliminated. Other important benefits derive from the extensive ,1 use of fusible materials in the construction process. A further 25 1l advantage is the fact that all steps of the method, including the steps of adhesively securing sections of the pocket by activation of fusible materials, are performed from the inside "

.1 - 2h -11392~7 ,1 of the garment so that the outside surface of the garment is protected from damage. Other advantages deriving from the use of the invention will readily suggest themselves to those s~illed in I the art.
1l Although particular embodiments of the invention have been illustrated in the accompanying Drawings and described in , the foreyoiny Detail Description, it will be understood that the ! appiication not limited to the embodiments disclosed, but is !, intended to embrace any alternatives, modifications, lC 11 rearrangements and substitutions of parts and elements as fall ! within the spirit and scope of the invention.
. .

~ 27 -

Claims (33)

IN THE CLAIMS:
1. In a pocket construction method of the type wherein a generally rectangular pocket blank is connected to a garment panel adjacent to a pocket opening formed by removal of a corner of the garment panel, said pocket blank being transversely folded to form inner and outer pocket panels with a facing strip connected to said pocket blank, said pocket panels being secured along the longitudinal edges thereof to seal the pocket, the improvement comprising the steps of:
folding a portion of the garment panel defining said pocket opening backwardly over a portion of the pocket blank;
adhesively securing the pocket blank to said garment panel;
positioning the facing strip adjacent to the outer pocket panel such that the pocket opening in the garment panel is covered when the pocket blank is folded transversely; and securing said facing strip to said outer pocket panel.
2. The improvement according to Claim 1, wherein the step of securing the facing strip to the outer pocket panel is characterized by the use of adhesive to effect adhesive interconnection.
3. The improvement according to Claim 1, wherein the pocket blank includes a generally transverse strip of fusible adhesive material attached to one side thereof, and wherein the step of securing the facing strip to the outer pocket panel is accomplished by activating said adhesive strip.
4. The improvement according to Claim 1, including the step of:
providing a stitch adjacent to the pocket opening extending through the garment panel, facing strip and at least one of the pocket panels to reinforce the pocket.
5. A method of constructing a pocket in a garment panel with a generally rectangular pocket blank, comprising the steps of:
forming a pocket opening in the garment panel;
positioning the pocket blank on the garment panel with one end of said blank adjacent to said pocket opening;
folding a portion of the edge of the garment panel defining the pocket opening backward over a portion of the pocket blank;
adhesively securing the pocket blank to the garment panel;
transversely folding the pocket blank to form inner and outer pocket panels interconnected by a fold at one end thereof; and interconnecting the pocket panels along the longitudinal edges thereof to complete construction of the pocket.
6. The method of Claim 5, wherein the step of forming a pocket opening in the garment panel comprises the step of:
removing a corner from said garment panel, said corner being defined by intersecting top and side panel edges.
7. The method of Claim 5, wherein the step of adhesively securing the pocket blank to the garment panel comprises the steps of:
placing adhesive material between the pocket blank and the edge portion of the garment panel folded thereover;
and activating said adhesive material to effect adhesive connection.
8. The method according to Claim 7, wherein the adhesive material is selected from the group consisting of nylon, polyester and polyamide materials.
9. The method of Claim 5, including the step of:
providing a stitch adjacent to the pocket opening extending through the garment panel and at least one of the pocket panels to reinforce the pocket construction.
10. The method of Claim 5, including the step of:
placing a facing strip behind the pocket opening in the garment panel and adjacent to the outer pocket panel; and securing the facing strip to the outer pocket panel.
11. The method of Claim 5, including the steps of:
placing a pocket welt within the pocket opening and adjacent to the folded over portion of the garment panel;
and securing said pocket welt to said garment panel.
12. A method of constructing a pocket in a garment panel with a pocket blank, comprising the steps of:
forming a predetermined pocket opening in the garment panel, said opening being defined by at least one edge of said garment panel;
positioning the pocket blank on the inside surface of said garment panel with one end of said blank adjacent to the pocket opening formed therein;
folding an edge of said garment panel defining the pocket opening backwardly over a portion of the pocket blank;
adhesively interconnecting the pocket blank and garment panel;
positioning a facing strip behind the pocket opening formed in said garment panel;
transversely folding the pocket blank to form inner and outer pocket panels with said facing strip located adjacent to said outer pocket panel;
securing the facing strip to the outer pocket panel;
and interconnecting the inner and outer pocket panels along the longitudinal edges thereof to complete construction of the pocket.
13. The method of Claim 12 wherein the step of adhesively securing the pocket blank to the garment panel comprises the steps of:
placing adhesive material between the pocket blank and the edge portion of the garment panel folded thereover;
and activating said adhesive material to effect adhesive interconnection between the pocket blank and garment panel.
14. The method according to Claim 12, wherein the adhesive material is selected from the group consisting of nylon, polyester and polyamide materials.
15. The method of Claim 12, including the step of:
providing a stitch adjacent to the pocket opening and extending through the garment panel and at least one of the pocket panels to reinforce the pocket.
16. The method of Claim 12, including the steps of:
placing a pocket welt within the pocket opening and adjacent to the folded over portion of the garment panel;
and securing said pocket welt to said garment panel.
17. The method of Claim 12, including the step of:
inwardly folding the longitudinal edges of the pocket blank before the transverse folding step so that said edges are inside the completed pocket.
18. In a pocket construction method of the type wherein a generally rectangular pocket blank is connected to a garment panel adjacent to a pocket opening formed by removal of a corner of the garment panel, said pocket blank being transversely folded to form inner and outer pocket panels and being secured along the longitudinal edges of the pocket panels to seal the pocket, the improvement comprising the steps of:
folding a portion of the garment panel defining said pocket opening backwardly over a portion of the inner pocket panel; and adhesively securing the inner pocket panel of the pocket blank to the garment panel.
19. The improvement according to claim 18, including the steps of:
providing a facing strip;
positioning the facing strip between the pocket panels such that the pocket opening in the garment panel is covered when the pocket blank is transversely folded;
and securing the facing strip to the outer pocket panel.
20. The improvement according to claim 19 wherein the step of securing the facing strip to the outer pocket panel is characterized by the use of adhesive to effect adhesive interconnection.
21. The improvement according to claim 19, wherein the pocket blank includes a generally transverse strip of fusible adhesive material attached to one side thereof, and wherein the step of securing the facing strip to the outer pocket panel is accomplished by activating said adhesive strip.
22. The improvement according to claim 18, including the step of:
providing a stitch along the pocket opening extending through the garment panel and at least one of the pocket panels to reinforce the pocket construction.
23. A pocket construction, comprising:
a garment panel;
said garment panel having a pocket opening formed by removal of a corner of the garment panel;
a length of material defining a pocket blank;
said pocket blank being positioned adjacent to the pocket opening in said garment panel and being folded transversely into inner and outer pocket panels inter-connected at the lower ends by a fold;
means located along a portion of the pocket opening for adhesively interconnecting the inner pocket panel and said garment panel; and means for securing the top ends and longitudinal edges of the pocket panels to complete construction of the pocket.
24. The pocket construction of claim 23, wherein the longitudinal edges of the pocket blank are folded inside the inner and outer pocket panels before being secured.
25. The pocket construction of claim 23, wherein said means for adhesively interconnecting the inner pocket panel and garment panel comprises:
a portion of said garment panel bordering the pocket opening being folded over the top end of the inner pocket panel; and fusible adhesive material disposed between the folded portion of said garment panel and the inner pocket panel for securing said pocket blank to said garment panel.
26. The pocket construction of claim 23, further including:
stitch means extending through said garment panel and at least one of the pocket panels for reinforcing the pocket construction.
27. The pocket construction of claim 23, further including:
a facing strip positioned between the inner and outer pocket panels and behind the pocket opening in said garment panel; and means for securing said facing strip to the outer pocket panel.
28. The pocket construction of claim 23, further including:
a welt positioned inside the pocket opening; and means for securing said welt to the inner pocket panel and garment panel.
29. A pocket construction, which comprises:
a garment panel with a pocket opening formed therein;
a length of material defining a pocket blank;
said pocket blank being positioned adjacent to the pocket opening in said garment panel and being folded transversely into inner and outer pocket panels inter-connected by a fold at the lower ends;
means for adhesively interconnecting the inner pocket panel and garment panel along a portion of the pocket opening;

a facing strip positioned behind the pocket opening and between the inner and outer pocket panels;
means for securing said facing strip to the outer pocket panel; and means for securing the top ends and longitudinal edges of the pocket panels to complete construction of the pocket.
30. The pocket construction of claim 29, wherein the longitudinal edges of the pocket blank are folded inside the inner and outer pocket panels before being secured.
31. The pocket construction of claim 29, wherein said means for adhesively interconnecting the inner pocket panel and garment panel comprises:
a portion of said garment panel bordering the pocket opening being folded over the top end of the inner pocket panel; and fusible adhesive material disposed between the folded portion of said garment panel and the inner pocket panel for securing said pocket blank to said garment panel
32. The pocket construction of claim 29, further including:
stitch means extending through said garment panel and at least one of the pocket panels for reinforcing the pocket construction.
33. The pocket construction of claim 29, futher including:
a welt positioned inside the pocket opening; and means for securing said welt to the inner pocket panel and garment panel.
CA000351743A 1979-05-25 1980-05-12 Pocket construction Expired CA1139277A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US4233379A 1979-05-25 1979-05-25
US06/042,333 1979-05-25

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
CA1139277A true CA1139277A (en) 1983-01-11

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ID=21921301

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
CA000351743A Expired CA1139277A (en) 1979-05-25 1980-05-12 Pocket construction

Country Status (8)

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JP (1) JPS55158306A (en)
AU (1) AU531683B2 (en)
CA (1) CA1139277A (en)
CH (1) CH643990A5 (en)
DE (1) DE3017678A1 (en)
FR (1) FR2457078A1 (en)
GB (1) GB2049398B (en)
IT (1) IT8048660A0 (en)

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2524879A (en) * 1949-02-21 1950-10-10 Capuano Crescenzo Hip pocket
FR2245309A1 (en) * 1973-09-27 1975-04-25 Dollfus Mieg Et Cie Attaching a pocket to a garment - using lines of thermoplastic adhesive
IL54352A (en) * 1977-07-28 1980-02-29 Haggar Co Method of constructing pockets in garments and pockets so constructed

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2457078A1 (en) 1980-12-19
AU5742280A (en) 1980-11-27
FR2457078B1 (en) 1985-05-17
IT8048660A0 (en) 1980-05-13
CH643990A5 (en) 1984-07-13
JPS55158306A (en) 1980-12-09
GB2049398B (en) 1983-02-23
GB2049398A (en) 1980-12-31
DE3017678A1 (en) 1980-12-04
AU531683B2 (en) 1983-09-01

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