FR3130589A1 - Compact care and/or make-up powder - Google Patents

Compact care and/or make-up powder Download PDF

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Publication number
FR3130589A1
FR3130589A1 FR2113876A FR2113876A FR3130589A1 FR 3130589 A1 FR3130589 A1 FR 3130589A1 FR 2113876 A FR2113876 A FR 2113876A FR 2113876 A FR2113876 A FR 2113876A FR 3130589 A1 FR3130589 A1 FR 3130589A1
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France
Prior art keywords
powder
ester
composition according
composition
compact
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
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FR2113876A
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French (fr)
Inventor
Camille BERTAUD
Marie-Line RIZZO
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LVMH Recherche GIE
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LVMH Recherche GIE
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Publication date
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Priority to FR2113876A priority Critical patent/FR3130589A1/en
Publication of FR3130589A1 publication Critical patent/FR3130589A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022Powders; Compacted Powders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0229Sticks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique solide de soin et/ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau, notamment sous la forme d’une poudre compacte comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable : - une phase solide particulaire comprenant des charges et éventuellement des pigments et/ou des nacres, et- une phase liquide comprenant au moins (i) un ester de diol en C3-C5 et d’un ou plusieurs acide(s) carboxylique(s) en C8-C12 et (ii) un ester de glycérol et d’un ou plusieurs acide(s) carboxylique(s) en C4-C20 distinct du composé (i).The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in particular in the form of a compact powder comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - a particulate solid phase comprising fillers and optionally pigments and/or nacres, and- a liquid phase comprising at least (i) one C3-C5 diol ester and one or more C8-C12 carboxylic acid(s) and (ii ) an ester of glycerol and of one or more C4-C20 carboxylic acid(s) distinct from compound (i).

Description

Poudre compacte de soin et/ou de maquillageCompact care and/or make-up powder

DOMAINE DE L'INVENTIONFIELD OF THE INVENTION

La présente invention concerne le domaine cosmétique et en particulier le domaine des poudres compactes, particulièrement destinées au soin cosmétique et/ou au maquillage de la peau.The present invention relates to the cosmetics field and in particular to the field of compact powders, particularly intended for cosmetic care and/or for making up the skin.

ETAT DE LA TECHNIQUESTATE OF THE ART

Les propriétés recherchées pour obtenir une poudre cosmétique de bonne qualité incluent notamment le pouvoir couvrant, l'adhérence, le pouvoir d'absorption de l'humidité et du sébum de la peau, le pouvoir d'étalement, la douceur, la finesse, le confort sur la peau, une longue tenue sur la peau, l'homogénéité, une stabilité à la conservation, et un prélèvement aisé de la poudre en vue de son application.The properties sought to obtain a good quality cosmetic powder include in particular the covering power, the adhesion, the power of absorption of moisture and sebum from the skin, the spreading power, the softness, the fineness, the comfort on the skin, long hold on the skin, homogeneity, storage stability, and easy removal of the powder with a view to its application.

Les produits proposés sur le marché (fond de teint / blush) qui revendiquent des longues tenues (généralement supérieures à 10 heures) contiennent généralement des liants à base de silicone. Les huiles silicones améliorent la cohésion de la formule et permettent une meilleure adhésion à la peau lors de l’application, ce qui confère à la formule des bonnes propriétés de tenue. Le toucher est soyeux non gras.The products offered on the market (foundation / blush) which claim long wear (generally more than 10 hours) generally contain silicone-based binders. Silicone oils improve the cohesion of the formula and allow better adhesion to the skin during application, which gives the formula good hold properties. The touch is silky non greasy.

Mais les consommatrices recherchent aujourd’hui des produits plus naturels, comprenant peu ou pas de composés siliconés.But consumers today are looking for more natural products, with little or no silicone compounds.

La Demanderesse a justement identifié, de façon inattendue, qu’une association particulière de liants non siliconés, de préférence d’origine naturelle, permettait d’obtenir ce toucher non gras sans utiliser d’huiles silicones, en atteignant des propriétés de longue tenue (24h) dans une poudre compacte.The Applicant has precisely identified, unexpectedly, that a particular combination of non-silicone binders, preferably of natural origin, made it possible to obtain this non-greasy feel without using silicone oils, by achieving long-lasting properties ( 24h) in a compact powder.

Un premier aspect de l’invention est donc une composition cosmétique solide de soin et/ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau, notamment sous la forme d’une poudre compacte comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable :
- une phase solide particulaire comprenant des charges et éventuellement des pigments et/ou des nacres, et
- une phase liquide comprenant au moins (i) un ester de diol en C3-C5 et d’un ou plusieurs acide(s) carboxylique(s) en C8-C12 et (ii) un ester de glycérol et d’un ou plusieurs acide(s) carboxylique(s) en C4-C20 distinct du composé (i).
A first aspect of the invention is therefore a solid cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in particular in the form of a compact powder comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
- a particulate solid phase comprising fillers and optionally pigments and/or nacres, and
- a liquid phase comprising at least (i) one C3-C5 diol ester and one or more C8-C12 carboxylic acid(s) and (ii) one glycerol ester and one or more C4-C20 carboxylic acid(s) distinct from compound (i).

Elle porte également sur un procédé cosmétique de soin et/ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau, et plus particulièrement du visage, comprenant l'application sur les matières kératiniques d'une composition telle que définie selon l’invention.It also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, and more particularly the face, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined according to the invention.

Par « composition selon l’invention », on entend la composition cosmétique finale obtenue selon le procédé de l’invention, à distinguer de la pâte ou ‘slurry’, qui est obtenue dans une étape intermédiaire du procédé dans le cas du procédé par voie humide.By "composition according to the invention", is meant the final cosmetic composition obtained according to the process of the invention, to be distinguished from the paste or 'slurry', which is obtained in an intermediate step of the process in the case of the process by humid.

Claims (10)

Composition cosmétique solide de soin et/ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau, notamment sous la forme d’une poudre compacte comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable :
- une phase solide particulaire comprenant des charges et éventuellement des pigments et/ou des nacres, et
- une phase liquide comprenant au moins (i) un ester de diol en C3-C5 et d’un ou plusieurs acide(s) carboxylique(s) en C8-C12 et (ii) un ester de glycérol et d’un ou plusieurs acide(s) carboxylique(s) en C4-C20 distinct du composé (i).
Solid cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in particular in the form of a compact powder comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
- a particulate solid phase comprising fillers and optionally pigments and/or nacres, and
- a liquid phase comprising at least (i) one C3-C5 diol ester and one or more C8-C12 carboxylic acid(s) and (ii) one glycerol ester and one or more C4-C20 carboxylic acid(s) distinct from compound (i).
Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que (i) l’ester de diol en C3-C5 et d’un ou plusieurs acide(s) carboxylique(s) en C8-C12 est un ester de butylène glycol et d’acides caprylique (C8)/caprique (C10).Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that (i) the ester of a C3-C5 diol and of one or more C8-C12 carboxylic acid(s) is an ester of butylene glycol and of caprylic (C8)/capric (C10). Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que (ii) l’ester de glycérol et d’un ou plusieurs acide(s) carboxylique(s) en C4-C20 est choisi parmi un ester de glycérol et d’acide isostéarique (C18), un ester de glycérol et d’acides caprylique/caprique/succinique (C8/C10/C4) et leur mélange.Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that (ii) the ester of glycerol and of one or more C4-C20 carboxylic acid(s) is chosen from an ester of glycerol and of isostearic acid (C18 ), an ester of glycerol and of caprylic/capric/succinic acids (C8/C10/C4) and their mixture. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend (i) un butylène glycol dicaprylate/caprate et (ii) un polyglycéryl-2-triisostearate et/ou un Caprylic/Capric/Succinic triglyceride.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises (i) a butylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate and (ii) a polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate and/or a Caprylic/Capric/Succinic triglyceride. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend des charges plaquettaires et des charges sphériques, de préférence en une teneur totale allant de 40 à 98% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises platelet fillers and spherical fillers, preferably in a total content ranging from 40 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la teneur totale en composés (i) et (ii) va de 2 à 30%, en particulier de 3 à 25%, de préférence de 6 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of compounds (i) and (ii) ranges from 2 to 30%, in particular from 3 to 25%, preferably from 6 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu’elle est obtenue par un procédé de compactage par voie sèche comprenant :
- mélange de la phase particulaire et de la phase liquide,
- compactage de la composition pour l’obtention d’une poudre compacte.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is obtained by a dry compacting process comprising:
- mixture of the particulate phase and the liquid phase,
- compacting the composition to obtain a compact powder.
Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce qu’elle est obtenue par un procédé de compactage par voie humide (slurry) comprenant :
  • mélange de la phase solide particulaire et de la phase liquide,
  • ajout d’une quantité de solvant allant de 20 à 80g, de préférence de 30g à 70g pour 100g de composition,
  • mise en forme de la pâte par compactage et élimination totale ou partielle du solvant pour obtenir une poudre compacte.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is obtained by a wet compacting process (slurry) comprising:
  • mixture of the particulate solid phase and the liquid phase,
  • addition of a quantity of solvent ranging from 20 to 80g, preferably from 30g to 70g per 100g of composition,
  • shaping of the paste by compacting and total or partial removal of the solvent to obtain a compact powder.
Composition cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu’elle se présente sous la forme d'une poudre de soin ou d’une poudre de maquillage du visage ou des lèvres, en particulier un fond de teint compact, un blush ou un fard à joues, un fard à paupières, un enlumineur de teint, une poudre de soleil, une poudre de teint protectrice, un concealer, une poudre pour les lèvres ou une poudre pour les sourcils, de préférence un fond de teint compact, un blush, un enlumineur de teint, un fard à joues ou un fard à paupières.Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a care powder or a make-up powder for the face or the lips, in particular a compact foundation, a blush or blusher, eye shadow, illuminator, bronzer, protective powder, concealer, lip powder or eyebrow powder, preferably a compact foundation , blush, highlighter, blush or eyeshadow. Procédé cosmétique de soin et/ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau, comprenant l'application sur les matières kératiniques d'une composition telle que définie selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9.Cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 9.
FR2113876A 2021-12-17 2021-12-17 Compact care and/or make-up powder Pending FR3130589A1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2113876A FR3130589A1 (en) 2021-12-17 2021-12-17 Compact care and/or make-up powder

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2113876 2021-12-17
FR2113876A FR3130589A1 (en) 2021-12-17 2021-12-17 Compact care and/or make-up powder

Publications (1)

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FR3130589A1 true FR3130589A1 (en) 2023-06-23

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1434562A1 (en) * 2001-09-29 2004-07-07 Beiersdorf AG Cosmetic and dermatological stick
US20050031572A1 (en) * 2001-07-06 2005-02-10 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic or dermatological preparations including hops or hop-malt extracts and methods of using same for the prophylaxis and treatment of skin symptoms
KR20110013166A (en) * 2009-07-31 2011-02-09 (주)아모레퍼시픽 Cosmetics composition containing make-up cosmetics with liquid phase cosmetics and method for applying the same
KR20160008678A (en) * 2014-07-14 2016-01-25 (주)아모레퍼시픽 Manufacturing method for pressed powder typed compact with marvle pattern the compact using the same
FR3063900A1 (en) * 2017-03-17 2018-09-21 L'oreal MICA-FREE, SURFACE-FREE, TALC-BASED POWDER, NON-PHENYLATED NON-VOLATILE SILICONE OIL, AND AMORPHOUS HYDROCARBON SEQUENCE COPOLYMER

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20050031572A1 (en) * 2001-07-06 2005-02-10 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic or dermatological preparations including hops or hop-malt extracts and methods of using same for the prophylaxis and treatment of skin symptoms
EP1434562A1 (en) * 2001-09-29 2004-07-07 Beiersdorf AG Cosmetic and dermatological stick
KR20110013166A (en) * 2009-07-31 2011-02-09 (주)아모레퍼시픽 Cosmetics composition containing make-up cosmetics with liquid phase cosmetics and method for applying the same
KR20160008678A (en) * 2014-07-14 2016-01-25 (주)아모레퍼시픽 Manufacturing method for pressed powder typed compact with marvle pattern the compact using the same
FR3063900A1 (en) * 2017-03-17 2018-09-21 L'oreal MICA-FREE, SURFACE-FREE, TALC-BASED POWDER, NON-PHENYLATED NON-VOLATILE SILICONE OIL, AND AMORPHOUS HYDROCARBON SEQUENCE COPOLYMER

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 7 October 2021 (2021-10-07), ANONYMOUS: "Stick Blush", XP055950651, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/9074848/ Database accession no. 9074848 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 8 November 2017 (2017-11-08), ANONYMOUS: "Twin Cake SPF 32 / PA+++", XP055950784, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/5135869/ Database accession no. 5135869 *

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