TW202241381A - cosmetic - Google Patents
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- TW202241381A TW202241381A TW110149050A TW110149050A TW202241381A TW 202241381 A TW202241381 A TW 202241381A TW 110149050 A TW110149050 A TW 110149050A TW 110149050 A TW110149050 A TW 110149050A TW 202241381 A TW202241381 A TW 202241381A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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Abstract
Description
本發明係關於一種化妝料。The present invention relates to a cosmetic material.
先前,於皮脂中,作為以油酸、棕櫚油酸為代表之不飽和脂肪酸對肌膚造成之影響,已知有微弱炎症、表面粗糙、毛孔等之凹凸明顯、脫妝等。為了改善此種不飽和脂肪酸對肌膚造成之影響,業界進行了各種研究。 例如,專利文獻1中記載有包含油酸酯系界面活性劑被覆六角板狀氧化鋅之不飽和脂肪酸吸附劑可適宜地吸附皮脂中所含之不飽和脂肪酸並使之固定化,且可於調配至化妝料中時防止脫妝。 專利文獻2中記載有含有具有聚矽氧彈性體球狀微粒子、及被覆其表面之聚有機倍半矽氧烷而成之聚矽氧微粒子之化妝料,該化妝料可抑制由皮脂所造成之彩妝化妝料特性之變化、顏色之變化、發亮等。 專利文獻3中記載有含有假葉樹萃取物之皮膚分泌抑制用組成物可改善伴隨皮脂之過量分泌而產生之皮膚症狀。 Previously, in sebum, as the influence of unsaturated fatty acids represented by oleic acid and palmitoleic acid on the skin, it is known that there are slight inflammation, surface roughness, unevenness of pores, etc., and makeup removal. In order to improve the effects of such unsaturated fatty acids on the skin, various studies have been conducted in the industry. For example, Patent Document 1 describes that an unsaturated fatty acid adsorbent comprising an oleic acid ester-based surfactant coated with hexagonal plate-shaped zinc oxide can properly adsorb and immobilize unsaturated fatty acids contained in sebum, and can be used in formulating Prevents run-off when applied to makeup. Patent Document 2 describes a cosmetic containing polysiloxane microparticles having polysiloxane elastomer spherical microparticles and polyorganosilsesquioxane coated on the surface, which can suppress skin irritation caused by sebum. Changes in properties of cosmetics, changes in color, shine, etc. Patent Document 3 discloses that a composition for suppressing skin secretion containing a pseudophyllum extract can improve skin symptoms associated with excessive secretion of sebum.
另一方面,先前,羥丙基纖維素係作為水溶性增黏劑而用於醫藥品或化妝料等。 例如,專利文獻4中記載有如下之水包油包醇型乳液組成物,其於用於皮膚時刺激較少且穩定性較高,該水包油包醇型乳液組成物具有:(a)含有羥丙基纖維素,且呈凝膠狀之醇相;(b)含有棕櫚酸糊精,且呈凝膠狀之油相;以及(c)含有皂化度為70~98 mol%之聚乙烯醇及羧乙烯基聚合物,且呈凝膠狀之水相。 [先前技術文獻] [專利文獻] On the other hand, hydroxypropyl cellulose has conventionally been used in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and the like as a water-soluble thickener. For example, Patent Document 4 describes the following alcohol-in-oil-in-water emulsion composition, which has less irritation and higher stability when used on the skin. The alcohol-in-oil-in-water emulsion composition has: (a) A gel-like alcohol phase containing hydroxypropyl cellulose; (b) a gel-like oil phase containing palmitate dextrin; and (c) polyethylene with a saponification degree of 70-98 mol%. Alcohol and carboxyvinyl polymer, and it is a gel-like aqueous phase. [Prior Art Literature] [Patent Document]
(專利文獻1)日本專利特開2018-83766號公報 (專利文獻2)日本專利特開2011-105662號公報 (專利文獻3)日本專利特開2017-178858號公報 (專利文獻4)日本專利特開2009-114180號公報 (Patent Document 1) Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2018-83766 (Patent Document 2) Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2011-105662 (Patent Document 3) Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2017-178858 (Patent Document 4) Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2009-114180
本發明係關於一種化妝料,其含有以下之成分(A)、(B)及(C): (A)具有纖維素骨架之聚合物,其係於每一葡萄糖上取代有2.4個以上之選自羥丙基、羥丁基及醯胺基中之取代基、 (B)液狀二元醇、 (C)具有羧基之水溶性聚合物,且 成分(C)相對於成分(A)之質量比率(C)/(A)為0.001~0.3。 The present invention relates to a cosmetic, which contains the following components (A), (B) and (C): (A) A polymer with a cellulose skeleton, which is substituted with 2.4 or more substituents selected from hydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl and amido groups on each glucose, (B) liquid glycol, (C) a water-soluble polymer having a carboxyl group, and The mass ratio (C)/(A) of a component (C) with respect to a component (A) is 0.001-0.3.
習知之技術中,於如專利文獻1、專利文獻2所記載,以粉體之形式吸附皮脂之情形時,於存在粉體之肌膚表面具有由皮脂捕捉能力產生之局部之持妝效果,但無法獲得肌膚本身之改善效果。又,於如專利文獻3所記載使用植物萃取物之情形時,雖然抑制皮脂分泌,但未能藉由捕捉不飽和脂肪酸改善對肌膚造成之影響。In the known technology, as described in Patent Document 1 and Patent Document 2, when sebum is adsorbed in the form of powder, there is a partial makeup retention effect produced by the sebum capture ability on the skin surface where the powder exists, but it cannot Obtain the improvement effect of the skin itself. Also, in the case of using a plant extract as described in Patent Document 3, although sebum secretion is suppressed, the effect on the skin cannot be improved by capturing unsaturated fatty acids.
本發明人等發現,藉由採用高取代度之羥丙基纖維素來特異性地自外部捕捉作為皮脂成分之以油酸為代表之不飽和脂肪酸,改善肌膚狀態,進而組合使用液狀二元醇及特定之水溶性聚合物,可獲得抑制皮脂造成之肌膚粗糙效果較高之化妝料。The inventors of the present invention have found that by using hydroxypropyl cellulose with a high degree of substitution to specifically capture unsaturated fatty acids represented by oleic acid as a sebum component from the outside, the condition of the skin can be improved, and further use liquid glycol in combination And specific water-soluble polymers can obtain cosmetics with high effect of inhibiting skin roughness caused by sebum.
本發明之化妝料可改善素顏肌膚之泛紅、光亮、光滑性(肌膚表面之粗糙)等肌膚狀態,且於塗抹粉底等時,服貼性良好,不會產生不勻而獲得均勻之妝容,並保持妝容。The cosmetics of the present invention can improve skin conditions such as redness, brightness, and smoothness (roughness of the skin surface) of plain skin, and when applying foundation, etc., it has a good fit and can obtain a uniform makeup without unevenness. And keep your makeup on.
本發明中所使用之成分(A)係具有纖維素骨架之聚合物,其係於每一葡萄糖上取代有2.4個以上之選自羥丙基、羥丁基及醯胺基中之取代基。 成分(A)係於纖維素之羥基上,選自羥丙基、羥丁基及醯胺基中之取代基於每一葡萄糖上取代2.4個以上者(取代度2.4以上),取代度較佳為3以上,且較佳為10以下,更佳為5以下。 此處,取代度為每一葡萄糖之經取代之羥基之平均數。於在羥丙基等取代基中亦包含羥基之情形時,該等取代基之羥基亦於反應中途經醚化,每一葡萄糖之取代基之個數即莫耳取代度例如就羥丙基而言大於3。 再者,取代度可藉由蔡色耳(Zeisel)法[參照Analytical Chemistry, Vol. 51, No. 13, 2172 (1979)、「日本藥典第十五次修訂(羥丙基纖維素之分析方法之項)」]而求出。 Component (A) used in the present invention is a polymer having a cellulose skeleton, and each glucose is substituted with more than 2.4 substituents selected from hydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl and amido groups. Component (A) is on the hydroxyl group of cellulose, and the substitutions selected from hydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl and amido groups are based on 2.4 or more substitutions per glucose (substitution degree is 2.4 or more), and the substitution degree is preferably 3 or more, preferably 10 or less, more preferably 5 or less. Here, the degree of substitution is the average number of substituted hydroxyl groups per glucose. In the case where hydroxyl groups are also included in substituents such as hydroxypropyl, the hydroxyl groups of these substituents are also etherified during the reaction, and the number of substituents per glucose is the molar degree of substitution. For example, for hydroxypropyl Words greater than 3. Furthermore, the degree of substitution can be determined by the Zeisel method [refer to Analytical Chemistry, Vol. Term)”] to find out.
作為成分(A),從藉由使不飽和脂肪酸凝膠化而提高捕捉能力、改善肌膚狀態,或改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻、提高持妝性之觀點出發,較佳為羥丙基纖維素。 又,成分(A)之聚合物較佳為不具有除羥丙基、羥丁基及醯胺基以外之取代基。 Component (A) is preferred from the standpoint of improving the capture ability by gelling unsaturated fatty acids, improving skin condition, improving makeup fit or unevenness when applying foundation, etc., and improving makeup durability. For hydroxypropyl cellulose. Moreover, the polymer of the component (A) preferably does not have a substituent other than a hydroxypropyl group, a hydroxybutyl group, and an amido group.
又,從藉由使不飽和脂肪酸凝膠化而提高捕捉能力、改善肌膚狀態,或改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻、提高持妝性之觀點出發,成分(A)之平均分子量較佳為40,000~2,500,000,更佳為100,000~2,500,000。 此處,平均分子量係利用凝膠滲透層析儀(GPC,Gel Permeation Chromatograph)進行測定。 Also, from the viewpoint of improving the capture ability and skin condition by gelling unsaturated fatty acids, or improving makeup fit or unevenness when applying foundation, etc., and improving makeup durability, the average content of component (A) The molecular weight is preferably from 40,000 to 2,500,000, more preferably from 100,000 to 2,500,000. Here, the average molecular weight is measured using a gel permeation chromatography (GPC, Gel Permeation Chromatograph).
此種聚合物例如可藉由向經鹼纖維素化而活化之鹼纖維素中添加氧化丙烯之方法來製造。例如,取代基為羥丙基之羥丙基纖維素係藉由如下方法製造:進行將纖維素與大量水及大幅過量之氫氧化鈉等鹼金屬氫氧化物於漿料狀態下混合而製成鹼纖維素之所謂稱為鹼纖維素化或絲光化的極繁雜之活化處理,並使氧化丙烯作用於該鹼纖維素。Such a polymer can be produced, for example, by adding propylene oxide to alkali cellulose activated by alkali cellulose. For example, hydroxypropyl cellulose whose substituent is hydroxypropyl is produced by mixing cellulose with a large amount of water and a large excess of alkali metal hydroxide such as sodium hydroxide in a slurry state. The so-called alkali cellulose or mercerization of alkali cellulose is an extremely complicated activation treatment in which propylene oxide acts on the alkali cellulose.
又,作為成分(A),例如可使用HPC-SSL、HPC-SL、HPC-L、HPC-M、HPC-H、HPC-VH(以上為日本曹達公司製造)、KLUCEL MF Pharm、KLUCEL HPC(Ashland公司製造)等市售品。Also, as the component (A), for example, HPC-SSL, HPC-SL, HPC-L, HPC-M, HPC-H, HPC-VH (manufactured by Nippon Soda Co., Ltd.), KLUCEL MF Pharm, KLUCEL HPC ( Ashland Co., Ltd.) and other commercially available items.
成分(A)可使用一種或組合兩種以上使用,關於含量,從藉由使不飽和脂肪酸凝膠化而提高捕捉能力、改善肌膚狀態,或改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻、提高持妝性之觀點出發,於全部組成中較佳為0.1質量%以上,更佳為0.2質量%以上,進而較佳為0.3質量%以上,進而更佳為1質量%以上,又,從改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝之服貼性或不勻、提高持續性之使用性之觀點出發,較佳為6質量%以下,更佳為3質量%以下,進而較佳為1.8質量%以下,進而更佳為1.6質量%以下。又,成分(A)之含量於全部組成中較佳為0.1~6質量%,更佳為0.2~3質量%,進而較佳為0.3~1.8質量%,進而更佳為1~1.6質量%。Ingredient (A) can be used alone or in combination of two or more. Regarding the content, it improves the capture ability by gelling the unsaturated fatty acid, improves the skin condition, or improves the makeup fit or unevenness when applying foundation, etc. , From the viewpoint of improving makeup durability, it is preferably at least 0.1% by mass, more preferably at least 0.2% by mass, further preferably at least 0.3% by mass, and still more preferably at least 1% by mass in the entire composition. From the viewpoint of improving the conformability or unevenness of makeup when applying foundation, etc., and improving the usability of durability, it is preferably at most 6 mass %, more preferably at most 3 mass %, further preferably at most 1.8 mass %, Furthermore, it is more preferably 1.6 mass % or less. Moreover, content of a component (A) is preferably 0.1-6 mass % in the whole composition, More preferably, it is 0.2-3 mass %, More preferably, it is 0.3-1.8 mass %, More preferably, it is 1-1.6 mass %.
於成分(B)之液狀二元醇中,液狀係指於25℃下具有流動性者。 作為液狀二元醇,例如可例舉:乙二醇、二乙二醇、三乙二醇、聚乙二醇、丙二醇、二丙二醇、三丙二醇、聚丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,3-丙烷二醇、1,2-丙烷二醇、戊二醇等。 該等之中,從提高不飽和脂肪酸之捕捉效果、改善肌膚狀態、改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻、提高持妝性之觀點出發,較佳為至少包含選自丙二醇、二丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、丙烷二醇中之1種以上,更佳為包含1,3-丁二醇或丙烷二醇。 Among the liquid diols of the component (B), the liquid means fluidity at 25°C. Examples of liquid diols include ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, pentanediol, etc. Among them, from the viewpoint of improving the capture effect of unsaturated fatty acids, improving skin condition, improving makeup fit or unevenness when applying foundation, etc., and improving makeup durability, it is preferable to contain at least propylene glycol, two At least one of propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, and propanediol, more preferably 1,3-butanediol or propanediol is included.
成分(B)可使用一種或組合兩種以上使用,關於含量,從提高成分(A)之分散性、提高不飽和脂肪酸之捕捉效果、改善肌膚狀態、改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻、提高持妝性之觀點出發,於全部組成中較佳為2質量%以上,更佳為3質量%以上,進而較佳為4質量%以上,又,從使用感之觀點出發,較佳為15質量%以下,更佳為12質量%以下,進而較佳為10質量%以下。又,成分(B)之含量於全部組成中較佳為2~15質量%,更佳為3~12質量%,進而較佳為4~10質量%。Component (B) can be used alone or in combination of two or more. Regarding the content, it can improve the dispersibility of component (A), improve the capture effect of unsaturated fatty acids, improve the skin condition, improve the make-up adherence when applying foundation, or From the standpoint of unevenness and improvement of makeup durability, it is preferably at least 2% by mass, more preferably at least 3% by mass, and still more preferably at least 4% by mass in the entire composition. Preferably, it is 15 mass % or less, More preferably, it is 12 mass % or less, More preferably, it is 10 mass % or less. Moreover, content of a component (B) becomes like this. Preferably it is 2-15 mass % in the whole composition, More preferably, it is 3-12 mass %, More preferably, it is 4-10 mass %.
於本發明中,從使不飽和脂肪酸凝膠化、提高不飽和脂肪酸之捕捉效果、改善肌膚狀態、改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻、提高持妝性之觀點出發,成分(A)相對於成分(B)之質量比率(A)/(B)較佳為0.05以上,更佳為0.07以上,進而較佳為0.1以上,又,從改善化妝不勻、化妝服貼性之觀點出發,較佳為0.6以下,更佳為0.45以下,進而較佳為0.35以下。又,成分(A)相對於成分(B)之質量比率(A)/(B)較佳為0.05~0.6,更佳為0.07~0.45,進而較佳為0.1~0.35。In the present invention, the ingredients ( A) The mass ratio (A)/(B) relative to the component (B) is preferably 0.05 or more, more preferably 0.07 or more, and still more preferably 0.1 or more. In addition, from the perspective of improving uneven makeup and makeup adherence From a viewpoint, it is preferably 0.6 or less, more preferably 0.45 or less, and still more preferably 0.35 or less. Moreover, mass ratio (A)/(B) of a component (A) with respect to a component (B) becomes like this. Preferably it is 0.05-0.6, More preferably, it is 0.07-0.45, More preferably, it is 0.1-0.35.
成分(C)係具有羧基之水溶性聚合物。 此處,水溶性係指於25℃之純水中溶解至少0.1質量%者。 成分(C)之聚合物只要具有羧基即可,從使不飽和脂肪酸凝膠化而提高捕捉效果,改善肌膚狀態,改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻,提高持妝性之觀點出發,較佳為丙烯酸系聚合物。 Component (C) is a water-soluble polymer having a carboxyl group. Here, water solubility means what dissolve|melts at least 0.1 mass % in the pure water of 25 degreeC. The polymer of component (C) only needs to have a carboxyl group. From the viewpoint of improving the capture effect by gelling the unsaturated fatty acid, improving the skin condition, improving the fit or unevenness of makeup when applying foundation, etc., and improving makeup durability Starting from, it is preferably an acrylic polymer.
作為丙烯酸系聚合物,可例舉包含丙烯酸、甲基丙烯酸作為構成單位之聚合物,例如可例舉:聚丙烯酸、聚甲基丙烯酸、羧乙烯基聚合物、丙烯酸-甲基丙烯酸烷基酯共聚物、丙烯酸/丙烯酸烷基(C10-30)酯交聯聚合物等。Examples of acrylic polymers include polymers containing acrylic acid and methacrylic acid as constituent units, such as polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, carboxyvinyl polymer, acrylic acid-alkyl methacrylate copolymer substances, acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate (C10-30) ester crosspolymer, etc.
又,作為成分(C)之聚合物,例如可例舉:(丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸烷基(C10-30)酯)交聯聚合物(製品名:PEMULEN TR-1 POLYMER(Lubrizol Advanced Materials公司))、羧乙烯基聚合物(製品名:Carbopol 980 POLYMER(Lubrizol Advanced Materials公司))、甲基丙烯酸共聚物(製品名:EUDRAGIT L100(Evonic公司))等市售品。In addition, as the polymer of the component (C), for example, (acrylate/alkyl (C10-30) acrylate) crosslinked polymer (product name: PEMULEN TR-1 POLYMER (Lubrizol Advanced Materials)) , carboxyvinyl polymer (product name: Carbopol 980 POLYMER (from Lubrizol Advanced Materials)), methacrylic acid copolymer (product name: EUDRAGIT L100 (from Evonic)), and other commercially available items.
成分(C)可使用一種或組合兩種以上使用,關於含量,從使不飽和脂肪酸凝膠化而提高捕捉效果,改善肌膚狀態,改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻,提高持妝性之觀點出發,於全部組成中較佳為0.001質量%以上,更佳為0.005質量%以上,進而較佳為0.01質量%以上,又,較佳為0.15質量%以下,更佳為0.1質量%以下,進而較佳為0.08質量%以下。又,成分(C)之含量於全部組成中較佳為0.001~0.15質量%,更佳為0.005~0.1質量%,進而較佳為0.01~0.08質量%。Ingredient (C) can be used alone or in combination of two or more. Regarding the content, it improves the capture effect by gelling the unsaturated fatty acid, improves the skin condition, improves the makeup fit or unevenness when applying foundation, etc., and improves the long-lasting effect. From the viewpoint of cosmetic properties, it is preferably at least 0.001% by mass, more preferably at least 0.005% by mass, further preferably at least 0.01% by mass, and preferably at most 0.15% by mass, more preferably at most 0.1% by mass, in the entire composition % or less, more preferably 0.08% by mass or less. Moreover, content of a component (C) becomes like this. Preferably it is 0.001-0.15 mass % in the whole composition, More preferably, it is 0.005-0.1 mass %, More preferably, it is 0.01-0.08 mass %.
於本發明中,從使不飽和脂肪酸凝膠化而提高捕捉效果、改善肌膚狀態、改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻、提高持妝性之觀點出發,成分(C)相對於成分(A)之質量比率(C)/(A)為0.001以上,較佳為0.005以上,更佳為0.008以上,進而較佳為0.01以上,又,為0.3以下,較佳為0.15以下,更佳為0.12以下,進而較佳為0.05以下。又,成分(C)相對於成分(A)之質量比率(C)/(A)為0.001~0.3,較佳為0.005~0.15,更佳為0.008~0.12,進而更佳為0.01~0.05。In the present invention, from the viewpoint of improving the capture effect by gelling unsaturated fatty acids, improving the skin condition, improving makeup fit or unevenness when applying foundation, etc., and improving makeup durability, component (C) is relative to The mass ratio (C)/(A) of the component (A) is at least 0.001, preferably at least 0.005, more preferably at least 0.008, still more preferably at least 0.01, and at most 0.3, preferably at most 0.15, and more preferably at least 0.01. Preferably, it is 0.12 or less, More preferably, it is 0.05 or less. Moreover, mass ratio (C)/(A) of component (C) with respect to component (A) is 0.001-0.3, Preferably it is 0.005-0.15, More preferably, it is 0.008-0.12, More preferably, it is 0.01-0.05.
本發明之化妝料可進而含有甘油脂肪酸酯,可改善乳化穩定性、塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻,提高持妝性。 作為甘油脂肪酸酯,從乳化穩定性之觀點出發,較佳為甘油單脂肪酸酯。作為甘油單脂肪酸酯,較佳為具有碳數10~24之脂肪酸之殘基者,更佳為具有碳數16~24之脂肪酸之殘基者,尤佳為具有碳數18~24之脂肪酸之殘基者。又,構成甘油單脂肪酸酯之「脂肪酸」可為飽和脂肪酸,亦可為不飽和脂肪酸,又,可為直鏈脂肪酸,亦可為分支脂肪酸。作為甘油單脂肪酸酯,較佳為具有飽和脂肪酸之殘基者,更佳為具有直鏈之飽和脂肪酸之殘基者。 作為甘油單脂肪酸酯,例如可例舉:甘油單月桂酸酯、甘油單肉豆蔻酸酯、甘油單棕櫚酸酯、甘油單硬脂酸酯、甘油單山萮酸酯、甘油單油酸酯、甘油單異硬脂酸酯、甘油單亞麻油酸酯等。該等之中,較佳為甘油單硬脂酸酯、甘油單山萮酸酯。 The cosmetics of the present invention may further contain fatty acid esters of glycerol, which can improve emulsion stability, make-up fit or unevenness when applying foundation, etc., and improve makeup long-lasting properties. As glycerin fatty acid ester, glycerol monofatty acid ester is preferred from the viewpoint of emulsion stability. Glycerin monofatty acid ester is preferably a residue of a fatty acid having 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably a residue of a fatty acid having 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably a fatty acid having 18 to 24 carbon atoms. the residues. In addition, the "fatty acid" constituting the fatty acid monoglyceride may be a saturated fatty acid or an unsaturated fatty acid, and may be a straight-chain fatty acid or a branched fatty acid. As glycerol monofatty acid ester, one having a residue of a saturated fatty acid is preferable, and one having a residue of a linear saturated fatty acid is more preferable. Examples of glycerol monofatty acid esters include glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monobehenate, and glyceryl monooleate. , glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monolinoleate, etc. Among them, glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl monobehenate are preferred.
甘油脂肪酸酯可使用一種或組合兩種以上使用,關於含量,從乳化穩定性、塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻之改善之觀點出發,於全部組成中較佳為0.1質量%以上,更佳為0.3質量%以上,進而較佳為0.5質量%以上,且較佳為5質量%以下,更佳為3質量%以下,進而較佳為2質量%以下。又,甘油脂肪酸酯之含量於全部組成中較佳為0.1~5質量%,更佳為0.3~3質量%,進而較佳為0.5~2質量%。Glycerin fatty acid esters can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is preferably 0.1% by mass in the entire composition from the standpoint of emulsion stability, cosmetic fit or unevenness when applying foundation, etc. Above, more preferably at least 0.3% by mass, more preferably at least 0.5% by mass, more preferably at most 5% by mass, more preferably at most 3% by mass, even more preferably at most 2% by mass. Moreover, content of glycerin fatty acid ester is preferably 0.1-5 mass % in the whole composition, More preferably, it is 0.3-3 mass %, More preferably, it is 0.5-2 mass %.
本發明之化妝料可進而含有高級醇,可改善乳化穩定性、塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻。 作為高級醇,較佳為碳數10~24之一元醇,更佳為碳數12~22之一元醇,進而較佳為碳數14~22之一元醇。又,高級醇可為直鏈狀,亦可為支鏈狀,又,可為飽和醇,亦可為不飽和醇,但較佳為直鏈狀之飽和或不飽和醇。 作為高級醇,例如可例舉:月桂醇、肉豆蔻醇、鯨蠟醇、硬脂醇、山萮醇、油醇等。該等之中,較佳為鯨蠟醇、硬脂醇、山萮醇,更佳為鯨蠟醇、山萮醇。 The cosmetic of the present invention may further contain a higher alcohol, which can improve emulsion stability, make-up adherence or unevenness when applying foundation and the like. The higher alcohol is preferably a monohydric alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably a monohydric alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and still more preferably a monohydric alcohol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Further, the higher alcohol may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, but is preferably a linear saturated or unsaturated alcohol. As a higher alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, etc. are mentioned, for example. Among these, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are preferable, and cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are more preferable.
高級醇可使用一種或組合兩種以上使用,關於含量,從乳化穩定性、塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻之改善之觀點出發,於全部組成中較佳為0.1質量%以上,更佳為0.3質量%以上,進而較佳為0.5質量%以上,且較佳為5質量%以下,更佳為3質量%以下,進而較佳為2質量%以下。又,高級醇之含量於全部組成中較佳為0.1~5質量%,更佳為0.3~3質量%,進而較佳為0.5~2質量%。Higher alcohols can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is preferably 0.1% by mass or more in the entire composition from the standpoint of emulsification stability, cosmetic fit or unevenness when applying foundation, etc. More preferably, it is 0.3 mass % or more, More preferably, it is 0.5 mass % or more, More preferably, it is 5 mass % or less, More preferably, it is 3 mass % or less, More preferably, it is 2 mass % or less. Moreover, the content of higher alcohol is preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.3 to 3% by mass, and still more preferably 0.5 to 2% by mass in the entire composition.
本發明之乳化組成物可進而含有腦醯胺類,可改善肌膚狀態(水分量等)。 作為腦醯胺類,可例舉通式(1)所表示者。 The emulsified composition of the present invention may further contain ceramides, which can improve the condition of the skin (moisture content, etc.). As the ceramides, those represented by the general formula (1) may, for example, be mentioned.
[化1] [chemical 1]
[式(1)中, R 11表示可經羥基、羰基或胺基取代之碳數4~30之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基、或氫原子; Z表示亞甲基、次甲基或氧原子; X 11、X 12及X 13分別獨立地表示氫原子、羥基或乙醯氧基, X 14表示氫原子、乙醯基或甘油基,或與鄰接之氧原子一同形成側氧基(其中,於Z為次甲基時,X 11與X 12中之任一者為氫原子,且不存在另一者;於X 14形成側氧基時,不存在X 13); R 12及R 13分別獨立地表示氫原子、羥基、羥烷基(例如羥甲基、羥乙基等)或乙醯氧基甲基; R 14表示羥基、羰基或胺基可取代,且於主鏈可具有醚鍵、酯鍵或醯胺鍵之碳數5~60之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基; R 15表示氫原子,或表示選自羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基及乙醯氧基中之可具有取代基之總碳數1~30的直鏈或支鏈之飽和或不飽和烴基(再者,於R 11為氫原子,且Z為氧原子時,R 15較佳為選自羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基及乙醯氧基中之可具有取代基之總碳數10~30之烴基,又,於R 11為烴基時,R 15較佳為表示氫原子,或選自羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基及乙醯氧基中之可具有取代基之總碳數1~8之烴基); 虛線部表示亦可為不飽和鍵] [In formula (1), R 11 represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group or hydrogen atom with a carbon number of 4 to 30 that may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group; Z represents a methylene group , methine or oxygen atom; X 11 , X 12 and X 13 independently represent a hydrogen atom, hydroxyl or acetyloxy group, X 14 represents a hydrogen atom, acetyl group or glyceryl group, or together with an adjacent oxygen atom Forming a pendant oxy group (wherein, when Z is a methine group, any one of X 11 and X 12 is a hydrogen atom, and the other is absent; when X 14 forms a pendant oxy group, X 13 does not exist) ; R 12 and R 13 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group (such as a hydroxymethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group, etc.) or an acetyloxymethyl group; R 14 represents that a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group can be substituted, and A straight-chain, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with 5 to 60 carbon atoms that may have an ether bond, an ester bond or an amide bond in the main chain; R 15 represents a hydrogen atom, or represents a group selected from hydroxyl, hydroxyalkane A linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with a total carbon number of 1 to 30 that may have substituents in oxy, alkoxy and acetyloxy (in addition, R 11 is a hydrogen atom, and Z is In the case of an oxygen atom, R 15 is preferably a hydrocarbon group with a total carbon number of 10 to 30 selected from hydroxyl, hydroxyalkoxy, alkoxy and acetyloxy, which may have substituents, and when R 11 is a hydrocarbon group , R 15 preferably represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon group with a total carbon number of 1 to 8 that may have substituents selected from hydroxyl, hydroxyalkoxy, alkoxy and acetyloxy); for unsaturated bonds]
式(1)中,作為R 11所表示之「可經羥基、羰基或胺基取代之碳數4~30之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基」,較佳為可經羥基取代之碳數7~22之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基。 Z表示亞甲基、次甲基或氧原子。 In formula ( 1 ), as "a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with 4 to 30 carbons which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group" represented by R11, it is preferably A linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with 7 to 22 carbon atoms substituted by a hydroxyl group. Z represents a methylene group, a methine group or an oxygen atom.
X 11、X 12及X 13分別獨立地表示氫原子、羥基或乙醯氧基。作為X 11、X 12及X 13之組合,較佳為X 11、X 12及X 13中之0~1個為羥基且剩餘為氫原子之組合。於Z為次甲基時,僅X 11與X 12中之任一者為氫原子,且不存在另一者。 又,作為X 14,較佳為氫原子、甘油基。 R 12及R 13分別獨立地表示氫原子、羥基、羥烷基(例如羥甲基、羥乙基等)或乙醯氧基甲基,較佳之R 12為氫原子或羥基甲基,較佳之R 13為氫原子。 X 11 , X 12 and X 13 each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetyloxy group. The combination of X 11 , X 12 and X 13 is preferably a combination in which 0 to 1 of X 11 , X 12 and X 13 is a hydroxyl group and the rest are hydrogen atoms. When Z is a methine group, only any one of X 11 and X 12 is a hydrogen atom, and the other is not present. Also, X 14 is preferably a hydrogen atom or a glycerol group. R 12 and R 13 independently represent a hydrogen atom, hydroxyl, hydroxyalkyl (such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, etc.) or acetyloxymethyl, preferably R 12 is a hydrogen atom or hydroxymethyl, preferably R 13 is a hydrogen atom.
R 14表示可被羥基、羰基或胺基取代,且於主鏈可具有醚鍵、酯鍵或醯胺鍵之碳數5~60之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基。作為R 14,可例舉:可經羥基或胺基取代之碳數5~35之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基;或於該烴基之ω位酯鍵結或醯胺鍵結有可經羥基取代之碳數8~22之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和之脂肪酸者。作為鍵結之脂肪酸,較佳為異硬脂酸、12-羥基硬脂酸或亞麻油酸。 R 14 represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with 5 to 60 carbons which may be substituted by hydroxyl, carbonyl or amine, and may have an ether bond, ester bond or amide bond in the main chain. Examples of R 14 include: a straight-chain, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with 5 to 35 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group or an amino group; or an ester bond or amide at the ω-position of the hydrocarbon group A straight-chain, branched-chain or cyclic saturated or unsaturated fatty acid with a carbon number of 8-22 that may be substituted by a hydroxyl group is bonded thereto. As the bound fatty acid, isostearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or linoleic acid is preferred.
R 15表示氫原子,或表示選自羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基及乙醯氧基中之可具有取代基之總碳數1~30的直鏈或支鏈之飽和或不飽和烴基。 於R 11為氫原子,且Z為氧原子時,R 15較佳為選自羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基及乙醯氧基中之可具有取代基之總碳數10~30之烴基。又,於R 11為烴基時,R 15較佳為表示氫原子,或選自羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基及乙醯氧基中之可具有取代基之總碳數1~8之烴基,更佳為表示氫原子,或選自可經羥基、羥基烷氧基及烷氧基中之1~3個取代之總碳數1~8之烴基。此處,作為羥基烷氧基及烷氧基,較佳為碳數1~7者。 R 15 represents a hydrogen atom, or represents a straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with a total carbon number of 1 to 30 which may have substituents selected from hydroxyl, hydroxyalkoxy, alkoxy and acetyloxy . When R 11 is a hydrogen atom and Z is an oxygen atom, R 15 is preferably a group selected from hydroxyl, hydroxyalkoxy, alkoxy and acetyloxy with a total carbon number of 10 to 30 that may have substituents. Hydrocarbyl. In addition, when R 11 is a hydrocarbon group, R 15 is preferably a hydrogen atom, or a group selected from hydroxyl, hydroxyalkoxy, alkoxy and acetyloxy with a total carbon number of 1 to 8 that may have substituents. The hydrocarbon group is more preferably a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon group with a total carbon number of 1 to 8 that may be substituted by 1 to 3 of hydroxyl, hydroxyalkoxy and alkoxy. Here, as a hydroxyalkoxy group and an alkoxy group, those with 1-7 carbon atoms are preferable.
作為腦醯胺類,較佳為以下之通式(2)所表示之天然之腦醯胺類或相同構造的合成物及其衍生物(以下,亦稱為天然型腦醯胺)、或以下之通式(3)所表示之類腦醯胺類(以下,亦稱為類腦醯胺)。天然型腦醯胺、類腦醯胺之中,從生產性等觀點出發,較佳為類腦醯胺。As ceramides, it is preferably natural ceramides represented by the following general formula (2) or synthetics of the same structure and derivatives thereof (hereinafter also referred to as natural ceramides), or the following The ceramides represented by the general formula (3) (hereinafter also referred to as ceramides). Among natural ceramides and ceramides, ceramides are preferred from the viewpoint of productivity and the like.
[化2] [Chem 2]
[式(2)中, R 21表示可經羥基取代之碳數7~19之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基; Z 1表示亞甲基或次甲基; X 15、X 16、及X 17分別獨立地表示氫原子、羥基或乙醯氧基; X 18表示氫原子,或與鄰接之氧原子一同形成側氧基(其中,於Z 1為次甲基時,X 15與X 16中之任一者為氫原子,且不存在另一者;於X 18形成側氧基時,不存在X 17); R 22表示羥烷基(例如羥甲基、羥乙基等)或乙醯氧基甲基; R 23表示氫原子,或表示碳數1~4之烷基; R 24表示可經羥基取代之碳數5~30之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基(烴基較佳為烷基);或於該烴基(烴基較佳為烷基)之ω末端酯鍵結有可經羥基取代之碳數8~22的直鏈或支鏈之飽和或不飽和脂肪酸者; 虛線部表示亦可為不飽和鍵] [In formula (2), R 21 represents a straight chain, branched chain or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with 7 to 19 carbons that can be substituted by hydroxyl; Z 1 represents methylene or methine; X 15 , X 16 and X 17 independently represent a hydrogen atom, hydroxyl or acetyloxy group; X 18 represents a hydrogen atom, or forms a side oxygen group with an adjacent oxygen atom (wherein, when Z 1 is a methine group, X Either one of 15 and X 16 is a hydrogen atom, and the other does not exist; when X 18 forms a side oxygen group, X 17 does not exist); R 22 represents a hydroxyalkyl group (such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl etc.) or acetyloxymethyl; R 23 represents a hydrogen atom, or represents an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbons; R 24 represents a straight chain, branched chain or cyclic compound with 5 to 30 carbons that may be substituted by a hydroxyl group; Saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group); or a straight-chain or branched chain with 8 to 22 carbons that can be substituted by a hydroxyl group is bonded to the ω terminal ester of the hydrocarbon group (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group) Saturated or unsaturated fatty acids; the dotted line indicates that it can also be an unsaturated bond]
[化3] [Chem 3]
[式(3)中, R 25表示可經羥基取代之碳數10~22之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基、或氫原子; X 19表示氫原子、乙醯基或甘油基; R 26表示可經羥基或胺基取代之碳數5~22之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基(烴基較佳為烷基);或於該烴基(烴基較佳為烷基)之ω末端酯鍵結有可經羥基取代之碳數8~22的直鏈或支鏈之飽和或不飽和脂肪酸者; R 27表示氫原子,或表示可經羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基或乙醯氧基取代之總碳數1~30之烴基(烴基較佳為烷基)] [In formula (3), R 25 represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group or a hydrogen atom with a carbon number of 10 to 22 that may be substituted by a hydroxyl group; X 19 represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or Glyceryl; R 26 represents a straight-chain, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group) with a carbon number of 5 to 22 that can be substituted by a hydroxyl group or an amino group; (preferably an alkyl group) whose omega-terminal ester is bonded with a straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid with a carbon number of 8-22 that can be substituted by a hydroxyl group; R 27 represents a hydrogen atom, or represents a hydrogen atom that can be A hydrocarbon group with a total carbon number of 1 to 30 substituted by oxy, alkoxy or acetyloxy (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group)]
此處,對通式(2)所表示之天然型腦醯胺進行說明。 式(2)中,R 21所表示之烴基之碳數為7~19,但較佳為11~15,更佳為13~15。又,作為R 21所表示之烴基,較佳為直鏈烷基。 X 18表示氫原子,或與鄰接之氧原子一同形成側氧基。又,作為R 24,較佳為可經羥基取代之碳數9~27之直鏈烷基、或於該烷基之ω末端酯鍵結有亞麻油酸之基。作為R 24,更佳為二十三烷基、1-羥基十五烷基、1-羥基二十三烷基、十七烷基、1-羥基十一烷基、於ω位酯鍵結有亞麻油酸之二十九烷基、二十五烷基。 Here, natural-type ceramide represented by general formula (2) is demonstrated. In formula (2), the carbon number of the hydrocarbon group represented by R 21 is 7-19, but preferably 11-15, more preferably 13-15. Also, the hydrocarbon group represented by R 21 is preferably a linear alkyl group. X18 represents a hydrogen atom, or forms a pendant oxygen group together with an adjacent oxygen atom. Also, R 24 is preferably a linear alkyl group having 9 to 27 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, or a group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded to the ω terminal of the alkyl group. As R 24 , more preferably tricosyl, 1-hydroxypentadecyl, 1-hydroxytricosyl, heptadecyl, 1-hydroxyundecyl, ester bonded at the ω position Nonacyl, Pentadecyl of Linoleic Acid.
作為天然型腦醯胺之具體例,可例舉:神經鞘胺醇、二氫神經鞘胺醇、植物鞘胺醇或鞘胺二醇經醯胺化而成之腦醯胺1~7型(例如J. Lipid Res., 24: 759 (1983)之圖2、及J. Lipid. Res., 35: 2069 (1994)之圖4所記載之豬及人類之腦醯胺類)。 進而該等之N-烷基體(例如N-甲基體)亦包含於天然型腦醯胺中。 該等腦醯胺可使用天然型(D(-)體)之光學活性體,可使用非天然型(L(+)體)之光學活性體,進而亦可使用天然型與非天然型之混合物。上述化合物之相對立體組態可為天然型立體組態,可為此外之非天然型立體組態,又,亦可為該等之混合物。 天然型腦醯胺之中,尤佳為CERAMIDE1、CERAMIDE2、CERAMIDE3、CERAMIDE5、CERAMIDE6II之化合物(以上為INCI(International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients,國際化妝用品命名法)、第8版)及下式所表示者。 Specific examples of natural ceramides include: ceramide types 1-7 ( Such as J. Lipid Res., 24: 759 (1983) Figure 2, and J. Lipid. Res., 35: 2069 (1994) Figure 4 recorded pig and human brain amides). Furthermore, these N-alkyl forms (such as N-methyl forms) are also included in natural ceramides. These ceramides can use natural type (D(-) body) optically active body, can use unnatural type (L(+) body) optically active body, and can also use a mixture of natural type and non-natural type . The relative stereo configurations of the above-mentioned compounds may be natural stereo configurations, other non-natural stereo configurations, or mixtures thereof. Among the natural ceramides, especially the compounds of CERAMIDE1, CERAMIDE2, CERAMIDE3, CERAMIDE5, CERAMIDE6II (the above are INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), 8th edition) and those represented by the following formula .
[化4] [chemical 4]
該等可為天然之萃取物及合成物中之任一者,可使用市售者。 作為此種天然型腦醯胺之市售者,例如可例舉:Ceramide I、Ceramide II、Ceramide III、Ceramide IIIA、Ceramide IIIB、Ceramide IIIC、Ceramide VI(以上為Cosmofarm公司製造)、Ceramide TIC-001(高砂香料公司製造)、CERAMIDE II(Quest International公司製造)、DS-Ceramide VI、DS-CLA-Phytoceramide、C6-Phytoceramide、DS-ceramide Y3S(DOOSAN公司製造)、CERAMIDE2(Sederma公司製造)。 These may be any of natural extracts and synthetics, and commercially available ones may be used. Commercially available products of such natural ceramides include, for example, Ceramide I, Ceramide II, Ceramide III, Ceramide IIIA, Ceramide IIIB, Ceramide IIIC, Ceramide VI (manufactured by Cosmofarm), Ceramide TIC-001 (manufactured by Takasago Fragrance Co., Ltd.), CERAMIDE II (manufactured by Quest International), DS-Ceramide VI, DS-CLA-Phytoceramide, C6-Phytoceramide, DS-ceramide Y3S (manufactured by DOOSAN), and CERAMIDE2 (manufactured by Sederma).
[化5] [chemical 5]
其次,對通式(3)所表示之類腦醯胺類進行說明。 式(3)中,作為R 26,較佳為庚基、1-羥基庚基、壬基、十三烷基、十五烷基、於ω位酯鍵結有亞麻油酸之十一烷基、於ω位酯鍵結有亞麻油酸之十五烷基、於ω位酯鍵結有12-羥基硬脂酸之十五烷基、於ω位以醯胺鍵之形式鍵結有甲基分支異硬脂酸之十一烷基。 又,於R 25為氫原子之情形時,作為R 27,較佳為可經羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基或乙醯氧基取代之總碳數1~30之烴基(烴基較佳為烷基),更佳為可經羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基或乙醯氧基取代之總碳數10~30之烴基(烴基較佳為烷基),尤佳為總碳數12~20之烷基。 於R 25為可經羥基取代之碳數10~22之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基之情形時,作為R 27,較佳為氫原子、或可經羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基或乙醯氧基取代之總碳數1~8之烷基。 作為R 27中之羥基烷氧基或烷氧基,較佳為碳數1~7者。 Next, the ceramides represented by the general formula (3) will be described. In formula (3), R 26 is preferably heptyl, 1-hydroxyheptyl, nonyl, tridecyl, pentadecyl, undecyl with linoleic acid ester-bonded at the ω position , pentadecyl with linoleic acid ester bonded at ω position, pentadecyl group with 12-hydroxystearic acid ester bonded with ω position, and methyl group bonded with amide bond at ω position Undecyl branched isostearic acid. Also, when R 25 is a hydrogen atom, R 27 is preferably a hydrocarbon group with a total carbon number of 1 to 30 which may be substituted by hydroxyl, hydroxyalkoxy, alkoxy or acetyloxy (hydrocarbyl is preferably is an alkyl group), more preferably a hydrocarbon group with a total carbon number of 10 to 30 that may be substituted by hydroxyl, hydroxyalkoxy, alkoxy or acetyloxy group (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group), especially preferably a total carbon number Alkyl group of 12-20. When R 25 is a straight-chain, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with 10 to 22 carbons that may be substituted by hydroxyl, R 27 is preferably a hydrogen atom, or a hydroxy or hydroxyalkyl group. An alkyl group with a total carbon number of 1 to 8 substituted by oxy, alkoxy or acetyloxy. The hydroxyalkoxy or alkoxy group in R 27 is preferably one having 1 to 7 carbon atoms.
類腦醯胺類之中,較佳為通式(3)中之R 25為十六烷基、X 19為氫原子、R 26為十五烷基、R 27為羥乙基者;通式(3)中之R 25為十六烷基、X 19為氫原子、R 26為壬基、R 27為羥乙基者;通式(3)中之R 25為十六烷基、X 19為甘油基、R 26為十三烷基、R 27為3-甲氧基丙基者;通式(3)中之R 25為氫原子、X 19為氫原子、R 26為十五烷基、R 27為十二烷基者;通式(3)中之R 25為氫原子、X 19為氫原子、R 26為1-羥基庚基、R 27為十二烷基者, 更佳為通式(3)中之R 25為十六烷基、X 19為氫原子、R 26為十五烷基、R 27為羥乙基者;通式(3)中之R 25為十六烷基、X 19為氫原子、R 26為壬基、R 27為羥乙基者;通式(3)中之R 25為十六烷基、X 19為甘油基、R 26為十三烷基、R 27為3-甲氧基丙基者, 尤佳為通式(3)中之R 25為十六烷基、X 19為氫原子、R 26為十五烷基、R 27為羥乙基者(N-(十六烷氧基羥丙基)-N-羥乙基十六醯胺)。 通式(3)所表示之類腦醯胺類為腦醯胺功能成分,可補充腦醯胺之功能,改善肌膚狀態(水分量等)。 Among the ceramides, it is preferred that R25 in the general formula (3) is a hexadecyl group, X19 is a hydrogen atom, R26 is a pentadecyl group, and R27 is a hydroxyethyl group; the general formula R 25 in (3) is hexadecyl, X 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is nonyl, R 27 is hydroxyethyl; R 25 in general formula (3) is hexadecyl, X 19 Glyceryl, R 26 is tridecyl, R 27 is 3-methoxypropyl; R 25 in the general formula (3) is a hydrogen atom, X 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is pentadecyl , R 27 is a dodecyl group; R 25 in the general formula (3) is a hydrogen atom, X 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is 1-hydroxyheptyl, R 27 is a dodecyl group, more preferably R 25 in general formula (3) is hexadecyl, X 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is pentadecyl, R 27 is hydroxyethyl; R 25 in general formula (3) is hexadecane group, X 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is a nonyl group, and R 27 is a hydroxyethyl group; R 25 in general formula (3) is hexadecyl, X 19 is glyceryl, R 26 is tridecyl , R 27 is a 3-methoxypropyl group, especially R 25 in general formula (3) is hexadecyl, X 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is pentadecyl, R 27 is hydroxyethyl The base person (N-(hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethylhexadecylamide). The ceramides represented by the general formula (3) are ceramide functional components, which can supplement the function of ceramide and improve the skin condition (moisture content, etc.).
[化6] [chemical 6]
[化7] [chemical 7]
腦醯胺類可使用一種或組合兩種以上使用,關於含量,從改善肌膚、改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻之觀點出發,於全部組成中較佳為0.01質量%以上,更佳為0.05質量%以上,進而較佳為0.1質量%以上,且較佳為5質量%以下,更佳為4質量%以下,進而較佳為3質量%以下。又,腦醯胺類之含量於全部組成中較佳為0.01~5質量%,更佳為0.05~4質量%,進而較佳為0.1~3質量%。Ceramides can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is preferably 0.01% by mass or more in the entire composition from the viewpoint of improving skin and improving makeup fit or unevenness when applying foundation, etc. More preferably, it is 0.05 mass % or more, More preferably, it is 0.1 mass % or more, More preferably, it is 5 mass % or less, More preferably, it is 4 mass % or less, More preferably, it is 3 mass % or less. Moreover, the content of ceramides is preferably 0.01 to 5% by mass in the entire composition, more preferably 0.05 to 4% by mass, and still more preferably 0.1 to 3% by mass.
於本發明中,從成分(A)之分散性、肌膚改善效果之觀點出發,水之含量於全部組成中較佳為40質量%以上,更佳為50質量%以上,又,較佳為85質量%以下,更佳為83質量%以下。又,水之含量於全部組成中較佳為40~85質量%,更佳為50~83質量%。In the present invention, the water content is preferably at least 40% by mass, more preferably at least 50% by mass, and more preferably 85% by mass in the entire composition from the viewpoint of the dispersibility of component (A) and the skin-improving effect. Mass % or less, more preferably 83 mass % or less. Moreover, the content of water is preferably from 40 to 85% by mass, more preferably from 50 to 83% by mass, in the entire composition.
本發明之化妝料除了上述成分以外,還可含有通常化妝料中所使用之成分例如上述以外之油性成分、上述以外之多元醇、界面活性劑、粉體、上述以外之高分子化合物、抗氧化劑、香料、防腐劑、pH調整劑、血液循環促進劑、冷覺劑、止汗劑、殺菌劑、皮膚活化劑、保濕劑、清涼劑等。In addition to the above ingredients, the cosmetic of the present invention may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as oily ingredients other than the above, polyhydric alcohols other than the above, surfactants, powders, polymers other than the above, antioxidants , spices, preservatives, pH regulators, blood circulation promoters, cooling agents, antiperspirants, fungicides, skin activators, moisturizers, cooling agents, etc.
本發明之化妝料可依據通常之方法製造,亦可製成油包水型乳化化妝料、水包油型乳化化妝料、水性化妝料等之任一種。又,可設為液狀、乳液狀、糊狀、乳脂狀、凝膠狀、固體狀等劑型。 又,從改善肌膚狀態,或改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻,提高持妝性之觀點出發,本發明之化妝料較佳為α型構造之凝膠。 α型構造可藉由利用X射線進行之構造分析來確認。α型構造為六方晶系,其特徵在於:親油基相對於親水基層之面以直角配向,且於布拉格角21~23°附近出現一條尖銳之繞射波峰。 The cosmetics of the present invention can be produced according to the usual method, and can also be made into any of water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics, oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics, and water-based cosmetics. Moreover, it can be made into dosage forms, such as a liquid, an emulsion, a paste, a cream, a gel, and a solid. Also, from the standpoint of improving skin condition, improving makeup fit or unevenness when applying foundation, etc., and improving makeup durability, the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably a gel with an α-type structure. The α-type structure can be confirmed by structural analysis using X-rays. The α-type structure is a hexagonal crystal system, which is characterized in that the lipophilic group is aligned at a right angle to the surface of the hydrophilic base layer, and a sharp diffraction peak appears near the Bragg angle of 21-23°.
本發明之化妝料較佳為用作水包油型乳化化妝料,可用作飾底乳、粉底、遮瑕霜、胭脂、眼影、睫毛膏、眼線、眉筆、被覆劑、口紅等彩妝化妝料;防曬乳液、防曬乳霜等紫外線防禦化妝料等。 本發明之化妝料可藉由塗抹於皮膚、較佳為除頭皮以外之部位、更佳為面部、身體、手足等中之任一處而使用。 本發明之化妝料可適宜地用作化妝水、洗劑、乳液、美容霜、基礎化妝料、防曬化妝料、面膜、按摩化妝料等皮膚化妝料;含有各種藥劑之乳霜等外用醫藥品,該等之中,從使不飽和脂肪酸凝膠化,提高不飽和脂肪酸之捕捉效果,改善肌膚狀態,改善塗抹粉底等時之化妝服貼性或不勻,提高持妝性之觀點出發,較佳為皮膚化妝料,更佳為化妝水、乳液、美容霜、基礎化妝料,進而較佳為美容霜、乳液、基礎化妝料,進而更佳為乳液、基礎化妝料。再者,皮膚化妝料不含洗淨用途之化妝料。 The cosmetics of the present invention are preferably used as oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics, and can be used as cosmetics such as primer, foundation, concealer, rouge, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, eyebrow pencil, covering agent, lipstick, etc. ; UV protection cosmetics such as sunscreen lotion and sunscreen cream, etc. The cosmetic of the present invention can be used by applying to the skin, preferably any part other than the scalp, more preferably the face, body, extremities and the like. The cosmetics of the present invention can be suitably used as skin cosmetics such as lotion, lotion, emulsion, cosmetic cream, basic cosmetics, sunscreen cosmetics, facial masks, massage cosmetics, etc.; external pharmaceuticals such as creams containing various agents, Among these, it is preferred from the viewpoint of gelling unsaturated fatty acids, improving the capture effect of unsaturated fatty acids, improving skin conditions, improving makeup fit or unevenness when applying foundation, etc., and improving makeup durability. It is a skin cosmetic, more preferably a lotion, an emulsion, a beauty cream, and a base cosmetic, more preferably a beauty cream, an emulsion, and a base cosmetic, and more preferably a lotion, and a base cosmetic. Furthermore, skin cosmetics do not include cleansing cosmetics.
關於上述實施方式,本發明進而揭示以下之組成物。Regarding the above-mentioned embodiment, the present invention further discloses the following compositions.
<1>一種化妝料,其含有以下之成分(A)、(B)及(C): (A)具有纖維素骨架之聚合物,其係於每一葡萄糖上取代有2.4個以上之選自羥丙基、羥丁基及醯胺基中之取代基、 (B)液狀二元醇、 (C)具有羧基之水溶性聚合物,且 成分(C)相對於成分(A)之質量比率(C)/(A)為0.001~0.3。 <1> A cosmetic containing the following ingredients (A), (B) and (C): (A) A polymer with a cellulose skeleton, which is substituted with 2.4 or more substituents selected from hydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl and amido groups on each glucose, (B) liquid glycol, (C) a water-soluble polymer having a carboxyl group, and The mass ratio (C)/(A) of a component (C) with respect to a component (A) is 0.001-0.3.
<2>如上述<1>中所記載之化妝料,其中,成分(A)係對於纖維素之羥基而言,選自羥丙基、羥丁基及醯胺基中之取代基於每一葡萄糖上取代2.4個以上者(取代度2.4以上),取代度較佳為3以上,且較佳為10以下,更佳為5以下。 <3>如上述<1>或<2>中所記載之乳化組成物,其中,成分(A)之聚合物較佳為不具有除羥丙基、羥丁基及醯胺基以外之取代基。 <4>如上述<1>至<3>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中,成分(A)較佳為羥丙基纖維素。 <5>如上述<1>至<4>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中,成分(A)之平均分子量較佳為40,000~2,500,000,更佳為100,000~2,500,000。 <2> The cosmetic as described in the above <1>, wherein the component (A) is a hydroxypropyl group, a hydroxybutyl group, and an amido group for the hydroxyl group of cellulose, and the substitution is based on each glucose In the case of 2.4 or more substitutions (substitution degree of 2.4 or more), the substitution degree is preferably 3 or more, and is preferably 10 or less, more preferably 5 or less. <3> The emulsified composition as described in <1> or <2> above, wherein the polymer of component (A) preferably has no substituents other than hydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl and amido groups . <4> The cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <3> above, wherein the component (A) is preferably hydroxypropylcellulose. <5> The cosmetic according to any one of the above <1> to <4>, wherein the average molecular weight of the component (A) is preferably 40,000-2,500,000, more preferably 100,000-2,500,000.
<6>如上述<1>至<5>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中,成分(A)之含量於全部組成中較佳為0.1質量%以上,更佳為0.2質量%以上,進而較佳為0.3質量%以上,進而更佳為1質量%以上,且較佳為6質量%以下,更佳為3質量%以下,進而較佳為1.8質量%以下,進而更佳為1.6質量%以下。 <7>如上述<1>至<6>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中,成分(A)之含量於全部組成中較佳為0.1~6質量%。 <6> The cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <5> above, wherein the content of component (A) is preferably at least 0.1% by mass, more preferably at least 0.2% by mass, in the entire composition, More preferably at least 0.3% by mass, still more preferably at least 1% by mass, more preferably at most 6% by mass, more preferably at most 3% by mass, still more preferably at most 1.8% by mass, still more preferably at most 1.6% by mass %the following. <7> The cosmetic according to any one of the above <1> to <6>, wherein the content of the component (A) is preferably 0.1 to 6% by mass in the entire composition.
<8>如上述<1>至<7>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中,成分(B)較佳為包含選自丙二醇、二丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、丙烷二醇中之1種以上,更佳為包含1,3-丁二醇或丙烷二醇。 <9>如上述<1>至<8>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中,成分(B)之含量於全部組成中較佳為2質量%以上,更佳為3質量%以上,進而較佳為4質量%以上,且較佳為15質量%以下,更佳為12質量%以下,進而較佳為10質量%以下。 <10>如上述<1>至<9>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中,成分(A)相對於成分(B)之質量比率(A)/(B)較佳為0.05以上,更佳為0.07以上,進而較佳為0.1以上,且較佳為0.6以下,更佳為0.45以下,進而較佳為0.35以下。 <11>如上述<1>至<10>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中成分(A)相對於成分(B)之質量比率(A)/(B)較佳為0.05~0.6。 <8> The cosmetic according to any one of the above <1> to <7>, wherein the component (B) preferably contains a substance selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, and propanediol. Among them, one or more types are more preferably contained 1,3-butanediol or propanediol. <9> The cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <8> above, wherein the content of component (B) is preferably at least 2% by mass, more preferably at least 3% by mass, in the entire composition, Furthermore, it is more preferably 4 mass % or more, and is more preferably 15 mass % or less, More preferably, it is 12 mass % or less, Still more preferably, it is 10 mass % or less. <10> The cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <9> above, wherein the mass ratio (A)/(B) of component (A) to component (B) is preferably 0.05 or more, More preferably, it is not less than 0.07, still more preferably not less than 0.1, more preferably not more than 0.6, more preferably not more than 0.45, still more preferably not more than 0.35. <11> The cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <10> above, wherein the mass ratio (A)/(B) of component (A) to component (B) is preferably 0.05 to 0.6.
<12>如上述<1>至<11>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中,成分(C)較佳為丙烯酸系聚合物。 <13>如上述<1>至<12>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中,成分(C)之含量於全部組成中較佳為0.001質量%以上,更佳為0.005質量%以上,進而較佳為0.01質量%以上,且較佳為0.15質量%以下,更佳為0.1質量%以下,進而較佳為0.08質量%以下。 <14>如上述<1>至<13>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中,成分(C)相對於成分(A)之質量比率(C)/(A)較佳為0.005以上,更佳為0.008以上,進而較佳為0.01以上,且較佳為0.15以下,更佳為0.12以下,進而較佳為0.05以下。 <12> The cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <11> above, wherein the component (C) is preferably an acrylic polymer. <13> The cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <12> above, wherein the content of component (C) is preferably at least 0.001% by mass, more preferably at least 0.005% by mass, in the entire composition, Furthermore, it is more preferably 0.01 mass % or more, and is more preferably 0.15 mass % or less, More preferably, it is 0.1 mass % or less, Still more preferably, it is 0.08 mass % or less. <14> The cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <13> above, wherein the mass ratio (C)/(A) of component (C) to component (A) is preferably 0.005 or more, More preferably, it is not less than 0.008, still more preferably not less than 0.01, more preferably not more than 0.15, more preferably not more than 0.12, still more preferably not more than 0.05.
<15>如上述<1>至<14>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其進而含有甘油脂肪酸酯。 <16>如上述<15>中所記載之化妝料,其中,甘油脂肪酸酯較佳為甘油單脂肪酸酯,更佳為甘油單硬脂酸酯、甘油單山萮酸酯。 <17>如上述<15>或<16>中所記載之化妝料,其中,甘油脂肪酸酯之含量於全部組成中較佳為0.1質量%以上,更佳為0.3質量%以上,進而較佳為0.5質量%以上,且較佳為5質量%以下,更佳為3質量%以下,進而較佳為2質量%以下。 <15> The cosmetic according to any one of the above <1> to <14>, further comprising glycerin fatty acid ester. <16> The cosmetic as described in <15> above, wherein the glycerin fatty acid ester is preferably glycerin monofatty acid ester, more preferably glycerin monostearate or glycerin monobehenate. <17> The cosmetic as described in <15> or <16> above, wherein the content of glycerin fatty acid ester in the total composition is preferably at least 0.1% by mass, more preferably at least 0.3% by mass, still more preferably It is 0.5 mass % or more, Preferably it is 5 mass % or less, More preferably, it is 3 mass % or less, More preferably, it is 2 mass % or less.
<18>如上述<1>至<17>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其進而含有高級醇。 <19>如上述<18>中所記載之化妝料,其中,高級醇較佳為碳數10~24之一元醇,更佳為鯨蠟醇、硬脂醇、山萮醇,進而較佳為鯨蠟醇、山萮醇。 <20>如上述<18>或<19>中所記載之化妝料,其中,高級醇之含量於全部組成中較佳為0.1質量%以上,更佳為0.3質量%以上,進而較佳為0.5質量%以上,且較佳為5質量%以下,更佳為3質量%以下,進而較佳為2質量%以下。 <18> The cosmetic according to any one of the above <1> to <17>, which further contains a higher alcohol. <19> The cosmetic material described in the above <18>, wherein the higher alcohol is preferably a monohydric alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or behenyl alcohol, and still more preferably Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol. <20> The cosmetic as described in <18> or <19> above, wherein the content of the higher alcohol is preferably at least 0.1% by mass, more preferably at least 0.3% by mass, and still more preferably at least 0.5% by mass in the total composition. Mass % or more, and preferably 5 mass % or less, more preferably 3 mass % or less, still more preferably 2 mass % or less.
<21>如上述<1>至<20>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其進而含有腦醯胺類。 <22>如上述<21>中所記載之化妝料,其中,腦醯胺類較佳為通式(1): <21> The cosmetic according to any one of the above <1> to <20>, which further contains ceramides. <22> The cosmetic material described in <21> above, wherein the ceramides are preferably the general formula (1):
[化8] [chemical 8]
[式(1)中, R 11表示可經羥基、羰基或胺基取代之碳數4~30之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基、或氫原子; Z表示亞甲基、次甲基或氧原子; X 11、X 12及X 13分別獨立地表示氫原子、羥基或乙醯氧基, X 14表示氫原子、乙醯基或甘油基,或與鄰接之氧原子一同形成側氧基(其中,於Z為次甲基時,X 11與X 12中之任一者為氫原子,且不存在另一者;於X 14形成側氧基時,不存在X 13); R 12及R 13分別獨立地表示氫原子、羥基、羥烷基(例如羥甲基、羥乙基等)或乙醯氧基甲基; R 14表示羥基、羰基或胺基可取代,且於主鏈可具有醚鍵、酯鍵或醯胺鍵之碳數5~60之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基; R 15表示氫原子,或表示選自羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基及乙醯氧基中之可具有取代基之總碳數1~30的直鏈或支鏈之飽和或不飽和烴基(再者,於R 11為氫原子,且Z為氧原子時,R 15較佳為選自羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基及乙醯氧基中之可具有取代基之總碳數10~30之烴基,又,於R 11為烴基時,R 15較佳為表示氫原子,或選自羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基及乙醯氧基中之可具有取代基之總碳數1~8之烴基); 虛線部表示亦可為不飽和鍵] 所表示者,更佳為以下之通式(2)所表示之天然之腦醯胺類或相同構造的合成物及其衍生物(以下,亦稱為天然型腦醯胺)、或以下之通式(3)所表示之類腦醯胺類(以下,亦稱為類腦醯胺) [In formula (1), R 11 represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group or hydrogen atom with a carbon number of 4 to 30 that may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group; Z represents a methylene group , methine or oxygen atom; X 11 , X 12 and X 13 independently represent a hydrogen atom, hydroxyl or acetyloxy group, X 14 represents a hydrogen atom, acetyl group or glyceryl group, or together with an adjacent oxygen atom Forming a pendant oxy group (wherein, when Z is a methine group, any one of X 11 and X 12 is a hydrogen atom, and the other is absent; when X 14 forms a pendant oxy group, X 13 does not exist) ; R 12 and R 13 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group (such as a hydroxymethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group, etc.) or an acetyloxymethyl group; R 14 represents that a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group can be substituted, and A straight-chain, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with 5 to 60 carbon atoms that may have an ether bond, an ester bond or an amide bond in the main chain; R 15 represents a hydrogen atom, or represents a group selected from hydroxyl, hydroxyalkane A linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with a total carbon number of 1 to 30 that may have substituents in oxy, alkoxy and acetyloxy (in addition, R 11 is a hydrogen atom, and Z is In the case of an oxygen atom, R 15 is preferably a hydrocarbon group with a total carbon number of 10 to 30 selected from hydroxyl, hydroxyalkoxy, alkoxy and acetyloxy, which may have substituents, and when R 11 is a hydrocarbon group , R 15 preferably represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon group with a total carbon number of 1 to 8 that may have substituents selected from hydroxyl, hydroxyalkoxy, alkoxy and acetyloxy); What is represented by an unsaturated bond] is more preferably natural ceramides represented by the following general formula (2) or synthetics of the same structure and derivatives thereof (hereinafter also referred to as natural ceramides) , or the ceramides represented by the following general formula (3) (hereinafter also referred to as ceramides)
[化9] [chemical 9]
[式(2)中, R 21表示可經羥基取代之碳數7~19之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基; Z 1表示亞甲基或次甲基; X 15、X 16、及X 17分別獨立地表示氫原子、羥基或乙醯氧基; X 18表示氫原子,或與鄰接之氧原子一同形成側氧基(其中,於Z 1為次甲基時,X 15與X 16中之任一者為氫原子,且不存在另一者;於X 18形成側氧基時,不存在X 17); R 22表示羥烷基(例如羥甲基、羥乙基等)或乙醯氧基甲基; R 23表示氫原子,或表示碳數1~4之烷基; R 24表示可經羥基取代之碳數5~30之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基(烴基較佳為烷基);或於該烴基(烴基較佳為烷基)之ω末端酯鍵結有可經羥基取代之碳數8~22的直鏈或支鏈之飽和或不飽和脂肪酸者; 虛線部表示亦可為不飽和鍵] [In formula (2), R 21 represents a straight chain, branched chain or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with 7 to 19 carbons that can be substituted by hydroxyl; Z 1 represents methylene or methine; X 15 , X 16 and X 17 independently represent a hydrogen atom, hydroxyl or acetyloxy group; X 18 represents a hydrogen atom, or forms a side oxygen group with an adjacent oxygen atom (wherein, when Z 1 is a methine group, X Either one of 15 and X 16 is a hydrogen atom, and the other does not exist; when X 18 forms a side oxygen group, X 17 does not exist); R 22 represents a hydroxyalkyl group (such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl etc.) or acetyloxymethyl; R 23 represents a hydrogen atom, or represents an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbons; R 24 represents a straight chain, branched chain or cyclic compound with 5 to 30 carbons that may be substituted by a hydroxyl group; Saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group); or a straight-chain or branched chain with 8 to 22 carbons that can be substituted by a hydroxyl group is bonded to the ω terminal ester of the hydrocarbon group (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group) Saturated or unsaturated fatty acids; the dotted line indicates that it can also be an unsaturated bond]
[化10] [chemical 10]
[式(3)中, R 25表示可經羥基取代之碳數10~22之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基、或氫原子; X 19表示氫原子、乙醯基或甘油基; R 26表示可經羥基或胺基取代之碳數5~22之直鏈、支鏈或環狀之飽和或不飽和烴基(烴基較佳為烷基);或於該烴基(烴基較佳為烷基)之ω末端酯鍵結有可經羥基取代之碳數8~22的直鏈或支鏈之飽和或不飽和脂肪酸者; R 27表示氫原子,或表示可經羥基、羥基烷氧基、烷氧基或乙醯氧基取代之總碳數1~30之烴基(烴基較佳為烷基)], 進而較佳為類腦醯胺類, 進而更佳為N-(十六烷氧基羥丙基)-N-羥乙基十六醯胺。 [In formula (3), R 25 represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group or a hydrogen atom with a carbon number of 10 to 22 that may be substituted by a hydroxyl group; X 19 represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or Glyceryl; R 26 represents a straight-chain, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group) with a carbon number of 5 to 22 that can be substituted by a hydroxyl group or an amino group; (preferably an alkyl group) whose omega-terminal ester is bonded with a straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid with a carbon number of 8-22 that can be substituted by a hydroxyl group; R 27 represents a hydrogen atom, or represents a hydrogen atom that can be A hydrocarbon group with a total carbon number of 1 to 30 substituted by an oxy, alkoxy or acetyloxy group (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group)], further preferably ceramides, and even more preferably N-(hexadecyl Alkoxyhydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethylhexadecylamide.
<23>如上述<21>或<22>中所記載之化妝料,其中腦醯胺類之含量於全部組成中較佳為0.01質量%以上,更佳為0.05質量%以上,進而較佳為0.1質量%以上,且較佳為5質量%以下,更佳為4質量%以下,進而較佳為3質量%以下。<23> The cosmetic as described in <21> or <22> above, wherein the content of ceramides in the total composition is preferably at least 0.01% by mass, more preferably at least 0.05% by mass, and still more preferably at least 0.05% by mass. 0.1 mass % or more, and preferably 5 mass % or less, more preferably 4 mass % or less, still more preferably 3 mass % or less.
<24>如上述<1>至<23>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中水之含量於全部組成中較佳為40質量%以上,更佳為50質量%以上,且較佳為85質量%以下,更佳為83質量%以下。 <25>如上述<1>至<24>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其為α型構造之凝膠。 <26>如上述<1>至<25>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其為水包油型乳化化妝料。 <27>如上述<1>至<26>中任一項所記載之化妝料,其為皮膚化妝料。 <28>如上述<21>中所記載之乳化組成物,其中腦醯胺類為N-(十六烷氧基羥丙基)-N-羥乙基十六醯胺(腦醯胺功能成分)。 [實施例] <24> The cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <23> above, wherein the water content is preferably at least 40% by mass, more preferably at least 50% by mass, and more preferably at least 50% by mass of the total composition. 85% by mass or less, more preferably 83% by mass or less. <25> The cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <24> above, which is a gel having an α-structure. <26> The cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <25> above, which is an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic. <27> The cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <26> above, which is a skin cosmetic. <28> The emulsified composition as described in <21> above, wherein the ceramide is N-(hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethyl hexadecylamide (ceramide functional component ). [Example]
[實施例1~10及比較例1~10] 製造表1所示之組成之水包油型乳化化妝料,對素顏肌膚之光亮改善、素顏肌膚之臉頰之泛紅改善、素顏肌膚之光滑性改善、化妝無不勻、化妝服貼性良好、妝容之保持進行評價。將結果一併示於表1。 [Examples 1-10 and Comparative Examples 1-10] The production of oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics with the composition shown in Table 1 can improve the radiance of plain skin, improve the flushing of cheeks of plain skin, improve the smoothness of plain skin, make up without unevenness, and have good makeup fit. Makeup maintenance was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1 together.
(製法) 1)均勻地混合油相成分,加熱至85℃使之溶解,獲得油相混合物。 2)另外於85℃下加熱混合成分(A)、(B)及(C)以外之水相成分,將該混合物添加至預先加熱至85℃之上述油相混合物中,於85℃下一面攪拌,一面均勻地混合,其後一面攪拌,一面冷卻至25℃。 3)於上述2)之混合物中添加另外於室溫下均勻溶解之成分(A)、(B)及(C)之混合物,進行攪拌直至變均勻,獲得水包油型乳化化妝料。 (preparation method) 1) Mix the oil phase ingredients evenly, heat to 85° C. to dissolve them, and obtain an oil phase mixture. 2) In addition, heat and mix the water phase ingredients other than components (A), (B) and (C) at 85°C, add the mixture to the above oil phase mixture previously heated to 85°C, and stir at 85°C , while uniformly mixing, and then cooling to 25°C while stirring. 3) Add a mixture of components (A), (B) and (C) that are uniformly dissolved at room temperature to the mixture of the above 2), and stir until it becomes uniform to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic.
(評價方法) (1)素顏肌膚之光亮改善: 每日早晚2次將各化妝料600 mg連用7天,於連用前與連用後,對用鏡子觀察洗淨後之素顏肌膚時之光亮進行評價。5名專業評價者以如下基準評價各肌膚,並以5人之合計得分表示結果。 5;與連用前相比明顯改善。 4;與連用前相比略微改善。 3;無變化。 2;與連用前相比略微惡化。 1;與連用前相比惡化。 (Evaluation method) (1) Brightness improvement of plain skin: 600 mg of each cosmetic was used twice a day in the morning and evening for 7 days. Before and after the continuous use, the radiance of the cleansed skin was evaluated with a mirror. Five professional evaluators evaluated each skin according to the following criteria, and expressed the result as the total score of the five evaluators. 5; Significant improvement compared with before continuous use. 4; slightly improved compared with before continuous use. 3; no change. 2; slightly worse than before continuous use. 1; worse than before continuous use.
(2)素顏肌膚之臉頰之泛紅改善: 每日早晚2次將各化妝料600 mg連用7天,於連用前與連用後,對用鏡子觀察洗淨後之素顏肌膚之臉頰部位時之泛紅進行評價。5名專業評價者以如下基準評價各肌膚,並以5人之合計得分表示結果。 5;與連用前相比泛紅明顯減少。 4;與連用前相比泛紅略微減少。 3;無變化。 2;與連用前相比泛紅略微增加。 1;與連用前相比泛紅增加。 (2) Improvement of flushed cheeks with plain skin: 600 mg of each cosmetic was used twice a day in the morning and evening for 7 days. Before and after the continuous use, the flushing of the cheeks of the cleansed skin was evaluated with a mirror. Five professional evaluators evaluated each skin according to the following criteria, and expressed the result as the total score of the five evaluators. 5; Compared with before continuous use, the redness is significantly reduced. 4; Compared with before continuous use, the redness is slightly reduced. 3; no change. 2; Redness slightly increased compared with before continuous use. 1; Redness increased compared with before continuous use.
(3)素顏肌膚之光滑性改善: 每日早晚2次將各化妝料600 mg連用7天,於連用前與連用後,對觸摸洗淨後之素顏肌膚時之光滑性進行評價。5名專業評價者以如下基準評價各肌膚,並以5人之合計得分表示結果。 5;與連用前相比肌膚明顯變光滑。 4;與連用前相比肌膚略微變光滑。 3;無變化。 2;與連用前相比肌膚略微變粗糙。 1;與連用前相比肌膚明顯變粗糙。 (3) Improve the smoothness of plain skin: 600 mg of each cosmetic was used twice a day in the morning and evening for 7 days, and the smoothness of the cleansed skin was evaluated before and after the continuous use. Five professional evaluators evaluated each skin according to the following criteria, and expressed the result as the total score of the five evaluators. 5; Compared with before continuous use, the skin is obviously smoother. 4; Compared with before continuous use, the skin becomes slightly smoother. 3; no change. 2; Compared with before continuous use, the skin becomes slightly rougher. 1; Compared with before continuous use, the skin is obviously rougher.
(4)化妝無不勻: 5名專業評價者將各化妝料600 mg塗抹於整個面部後,對塗抹市售之粉狀粉底時之不勻以如下基準進行評價。以5人之合計得分表示結果。 5:無不勻,較均勻。 4:略微存在不勻,但大致均勻。 3:略微存在不勻,不均勻。 2:存在不勻,不均勻。 1:不勻較多,不均勻。 (4) No uneven makeup: After applying 600 mg of each cosmetic material to the entire face, 5 professional evaluators evaluated unevenness when applying a commercially available powder foundation according to the following criteria. The result is expressed as the total score of 5 people. 5: No unevenness, relatively uniform. 4: Slightly uneven, but substantially uniform. 3: Slight unevenness, unevenness. 2: There is unevenness and unevenness. 1: There are many unevennesses and unevenness.
(5)化妝服貼性良好: 5名專業評價者在3天時間內每日早晚2次將各化妝料600 mg塗抹於整個面部後,洗淨肌膚,於塗抹普通化妝水、乳液後,對塗抹市售之粉狀粉底時之化妝服貼程度以如下基準進行評價。以5人之合計得分表示結果。 5:化妝服貼性非常良好。 4:化妝服貼性良好。 3:化妝服貼性略微良好。 2:化妝服貼性較差。 1:化妝服貼性非常差。 (5) Make-up adherence is good: 5 professional evaluators applied 600 mg of each cosmetic material to the entire face twice a day in the morning and evening for 3 days, washed the skin, applied ordinary lotion and lotion, and compared the effects of applying commercially available powder foundations. The degree of make-up adherence was evaluated based on the following criteria. The result is expressed as the total score of 5 people. 5: Makeup adherence is very good. 4: Makeup adherence is good. 3: Makeup adherence property is slightly good. 2: Poor make-up adherence. 1: Makeup adherence is very poor.
(6)妝容之保持: 5名專業評價者將各化妝料600 mg塗抹於整個面部後,塗抹市售之粉狀粉底60 mg。對化妝塗抹5小時後之化妝之崩壞程度以如下基準進行評價。以5人之合計得分表示結果。 5:粉底殘留於肌膚。 4:粉底幾乎都殘留於肌膚。 3:粉底略微殘留於肌膚。 2:粉底幾乎未殘留於肌膚。 1:粉底未殘留於肌膚。 (6) Maintenance of makeup: Five professional evaluators applied 600 mg of each cosmetic material to the entire face, and then applied 60 mg of a commercially available powder foundation. The degree of collapse of the makeup after 5 hours of makeup application was evaluated by the following criteria. The result is expressed as the total score of 5 people. 5: The foundation remains on the skin. 4: Most of the foundation remains on the skin. 3: The foundation slightly remains on the skin. 2: Almost no foundation remains on the skin. 1: The foundation does not remain on the skin.
[表1]
[實施例11~14、比較例11~17] 製造表2所示之組成之水性化妝料,以與實施例1~10同樣之方式,對素顏肌膚之光亮改善、素顏肌膚之臉頰之泛紅改善、素顏肌膚之光滑性改善、化妝無不勻、化妝服貼性良好、妝容之保持進行評價。將結果一併示於表2。 [Examples 11 to 14, Comparative Examples 11 to 17] Water-based cosmetics with the composition shown in Table 2 were produced, and in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 10, the brightness of plain skin was improved, the flushing of cheeks of plain skin was improved, the smoothness of plain skin was improved, and makeup was not uneven. , Make-up adherence is good, and make-up maintenance is evaluated. The results are shown in Table 2 together.
(製法) 將全部成分於80℃下攪拌而進行均勻溶解,其後一面攪拌,一面冷卻至室溫,獲得水性化妝料。 (preparation method) All the components were stirred at 80° C. to dissolve uniformly, and then cooled to room temperature while stirring to obtain a water-based cosmetic.
[表2]
[實施例15~16] 除了最後添加粉體以外,以與實施例1~10同樣之方式,製造表3所示之組成之水包油型乳化化妝料(妝底)。 所獲得之化妝料均可改善素顏肌膚之光亮、或素顏肌膚之臉頰之泛紅、素顏肌膚之光滑性等肌膚狀態,且於塗抹粉底等時,服貼性良好,不會產生不勻而獲得均勻之妝容,並保持妝容。 [Examples 15-16] An oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic (makeup base) having a composition shown in Table 3 was produced in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 10 except that the powder was added last. The obtained cosmetics can improve skin conditions such as the brightness of plain skin, the flushing of cheeks of plain skin, the smoothness of plain skin, etc., and when applying foundation, etc., they have good compliance and will not cause unevenness. Evens out makeup and keeps it in place.
[表3]
[實施例17] 以與實施例1~10同樣之方式,製造表4所示之組成之水包油型乳化化妝料(乳液)。 所獲得之化妝料可改善素顏肌膚之光亮、或素顏肌膚之臉頰之泛紅、素顏肌膚之光滑性等肌膚狀態,且於塗抹粉底等時,服貼性良好,不會產生不勻而獲得均勻之妝容,並保持妝容。 [Example 17] In the same manner as in Examples 1 to 10, an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic (emulsion) having a composition shown in Table 4 was produced. The obtained cosmetics can improve skin conditions such as radiance of plain skin, redness of cheeks of plain skin, smoothness of plain skin, etc., and when applying foundation, etc., it has good conformability, does not produce unevenness, and obtains uniformity Makeup look and keep it looking.
[表4]
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