FR3130613A1 - Non-transfer care and/or makeup composition - Google Patents

Non-transfer care and/or makeup composition Download PDF

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Publication number
FR3130613A1
FR3130613A1 FR2114160A FR2114160A FR3130613A1 FR 3130613 A1 FR3130613 A1 FR 3130613A1 FR 2114160 A FR2114160 A FR 2114160A FR 2114160 A FR2114160 A FR 2114160A FR 3130613 A1 FR3130613 A1 FR 3130613A1
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FR
France
Prior art keywords
composition according
composition
lipophilic
ester
polycondensate
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
FR2114160A
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French (fr)
Inventor
Valerie Alard
Anne-Sophie RATTINA
Laurent Neau
Ludivine Laurent
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LVMH Recherche GIE
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LVMH Recherche GIE
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LVMH Recherche GIE filed Critical LVMH Recherche GIE
Priority to FR2114160A priority Critical patent/FR3130613A1/en
Priority to PCT/FR2022/052428 priority patent/WO2023118722A1/en
Publication of FR3130613A1 publication Critical patent/FR3130613A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88Polyamides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes

Abstract

La présente invention concerne cosmétique sous la forme d’une émulsion comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins : - un polycondensat lipophile de type polyamide,- un composé favorisant l’adhésion de la composition sur les matières kératiniques choisi notamment dans le groupe constitué par : . les copolymères de la vinylpyrrolidone (VP) et d’alcène comprenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone, . les esters de sucre, de préférence le sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), . les esters ramifiés de dextrine, . et leurs mélanges, - éventuellement en outre au moins une matière colorante,The present invention relates to cosmetics in the form of an emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratin materials chosen in particular from the group consisting of : . vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, . sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), . branched dextrin esters, . and mixtures thereof, - optionally additionally at least one dyestuff,

Description

Composition de soin et/ou de maquillage non-transfertNon-transfer care and/or makeup composition

DOMAINE DE L'INVENTIONFIELD OF THE INVENTION

La présente invention concerne le domaine cosmétique et en particulier des compositions cosmétiques de soin et/ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau et des lèvres.The present invention relates to the cosmetics field and in particular to cosmetic compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips.

ETAT DE LA TECHNIQUESTATE OF THE ART

Il existe une attente forte des consommateurs pour des produits de soin et de maquillage ayant une bonne tenue sur les matières kératiniques, en particulier une bonne tenue sur la peau ou les lèvres, et notamment des produits qui soient résistants à toutes les « conditions de vie », y compris les conditions dites « extrêmes » : température et humidité élevées, sueur et sébum (conséquences de la température) et port du masque généralisé (impliquant des zones de frottement et de transfert).There is strong consumer demand for skincare and make-up products that have good hold on keratin materials, in particular good hold on the skin or lips, and in particular products that are resistant to all "living conditions". “, including so-called “extreme” conditions: high temperature and humidity, sweat and sebum (temperature consequences) and general mask wearing (involving areas of friction and transfer).

On connaît de l’art antérieur l’utilisation de polymères de tenue notamment siliconés, d’huiles volatiles, et de cires en particulier dans les compositions solides, mais l’efficacité tenue (pas de migration et/ou non-transfert) et/ou la sensorialité (confort) sur la peau ne sont pas toujours optimales, en particulier en conditions extrêmes.We know from the prior art the use of holding polymers, in particular silicones, of volatile oils, and of waxes in particular in solid compositions, but the holding efficiency (no migration and/or non-transfer) and/ or sensoriality (comfort) on the skin are not always optimal, especially in extreme conditions.

Par conséquent, il subsiste le besoin de développer de nouveaux produits présentant une tenue améliorée, sans compromis sur les propriétés cosmétiques et sensorielles (confort) recherchées. Avantageusement, on recherche des produits présentant peu ou pas d’huiles volatiles.Consequently, there remains the need to develop new products having improved staying power, without compromising on the cosmetic and sensory (comfort) properties sought. Advantageously, products with little or no volatile oils are sought.

La Demanderesse a mis en évidence que l’association d’un polycondensat lipophile de type polyamide et d’un ou plusieurs composés favorisant l’adhésion du produit sur la peau et/ou les lèvres, permettait d’améliorer les propriétés de cohésion et d’adhésion du film de produit déposé sur la peau/les lèvres et par conséquent sa résistance aux sollicitations externes. De manière surprenante, cette association permet de ne pas détériorer le réseau formé par le polycondensat lipophile de type polyamide en phase grasse, grâce à une interaction chimique polycondensat lipophile de type polyamide/ agent d’adhésion.The Applicant has demonstrated that the combination of a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type and one or more compounds promoting the adhesion of the product to the skin and/or the lips, made it possible to improve the properties of cohesion and adhesion of the film of product deposited on the skin/lips and consequently its resistance to external stresses. Surprisingly, this combination makes it possible not to damage the network formed by the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type in the fatty phase, thanks to a chemical interaction of the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type/adhesion agent.

Avantageusement en outre, dans le cas de compositions solaires, l’amélioration de la tenue du film permet une amélioration de la protection solaire.Advantageously, in the case of sunscreen compositions, the improvement in the staying power of the film allows an improvement in sun protection.

Un premier aspect de l’invention est une composition cosmétique sous la forme d’une émulsion comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins :A first aspect of the invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

- un polycondensat lipophile de type polyamide,
- un composé favorisant l’adhésion de la composition sur les matières kératiniques choisi notamment dans le groupe constitué par :
. les copolymères de la vinylpyrrolidone (VP) et d’alcène comprenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone,
. les esters de sucre, de préférence le sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),
. les esters ramifiés de dextrine,
. et leurs mélanges,
- éventuellement en outre au moins une matière colorante,
- a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type,
- a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratin materials chosen in particular from the group consisting of:
. copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms,
. sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),
. branched dextrin esters,
. and their mixtures,
- optionally additionally at least one dyestuff,

Par ‘matières kératiniques’, on entend notamment la peau et/ou les lèvres.By “keratinous materials” is meant in particular the skin and/or the lips.

L’invention porte également sur un procédé cosmétique de soin et/ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier la peau et/ou les lèvres, comprenant l’application, sur lesdites matières kératiniques, d’une composition selon l’invention.The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising the application, to said keratin materials, of a composition according to the invention.

Claims (11)

Composition cosmétique sous la forme d’une émulsion comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins :
- un polycondensat lipophile de type polyamide,
- un composé favorisant l’adhésion de la composition sur les matières kératiniques choisi notamment dans le groupe constitué par :
. les copolymères de la vinylpyrrolidone (VP) et d’alcène comprenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone,
. les esters de sucre, de préférence le sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),
. les esters ramifiés de dextrine,
. et leurs mélanges,
- éventuellement en outre au moins une matière colorante,
Cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:
- a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type,
- a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratin materials chosen in particular from the group consisting of:
. copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms,
. sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),
. branched dextrin esters,
. and their mixtures,
- optionally additionally at least one dyestuff,
Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que le polycondensat lipophile de type polyamide est choisi parmi les polyamides à terminaison ester, les polyamides à terminaison amide tertiaire ou les polyamides à terminaison polyalkylèneoxy ou encore les poly (ester-amides) à terminaison ester.Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type is chosen from polyamides with ester termination, polyamides with tertiary amide termination or polyamides with polyalkyleneoxy termination or else poly(ester-amides) with ester termination. Composition selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend au moins un polyamide à terminaison ester obtenu par condensation d'un diacide en C36, plus particulièrement un dimère d’acide linoléique, sur l'éthylène diamine, les terminaisons acides restantes étant estérifiées par l'alcool cétylique, l’alcool stéarylique, ou leur mélange, et ayant pour nom INCI : ETHYLENEDIAMINE/STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER.Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer, on ethylene diamine, the remaining acid terminations being esterified with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE/STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER. Composition selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend au moins un poly (ester-amide) à terminaison ester obtenu par condensation d'un diacide en C36, plus particulièrement un dimère d’acide linoléique hydrogéné et de néopentyl glycol, sur l'éthylène diamine ; les terminaisons acides restantes étant estérifiées par l'alcool stéarylique, et ayant pour nom INCI : POLYAMIDE-8.Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one poly(ester-amide) with ester termination obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and of neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acid ends being esterified with stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu’il s’agit d’une composition solide dans laquelle le polycondensat lipophile de type polyamide est présent en une teneur en matière active allant de 15% à 30% en poids, de préférence de 20 à 25% en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a solid composition in which the lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type is present in an active matter content ranging from 15% to 30% by weight, preferably from 20 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend :
  • - un polycondensat lipophile de type polyamide de nom INCI POLYAMIDE-8, de préférence en une teneur allant de 15% à 30% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition,
    - un composé favorisant l’adhésion de la composition sur les matières kératiniques choisi dans le groupe constitué par :
    . les copolymères de la vinylpyrrolidone (VP) et d’alcène comprenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone,
    . les esters de sucre, de préférence le sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),
    . et leur mélange,
    et éventuellement en outre une matière colorante.
Composition according to any one of the claims, characterized in that it comprises:
  • - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type with the INCI name POLYAMIDE-8, preferably in a content ranging from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
    - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratin materials chosen from the group consisting of:
    . copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms,
    . sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),
    . and their mixture,
    and optionally additionally a dyestuff.
Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend en outre une ou plusieurs huiles hydrocarbonées, de préférence choisie parmi des huiles esters, de l’eau, et un ou plusieurs solvants hydrosolubles, de préférence choisis parmi le glycérol, les glycols en C2-C8 et leur mélange.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils, preferably chosen from ester oils, water, and one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably chosen from glycerol, C2-C8 glycols and their mixture. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend en outre un ingrédient additionnel choisi parmi les émulsionnants, les gélifiants hydrophiles ou lipophiles distincts du polycondensat lipophile de type polyamide, les résines végétales, les antioxydants, les parfums, les conservateurs, les actifs cosmétiques, les charges, et leurs mélanges.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises an additional ingredient chosen from emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents other than the lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type, plant resins, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, fillers, and mixtures thereof. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend en outre un ou plusieurs filtres UV.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises one or more UV filters. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu’il s’agit d’un stick pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de la peau et/ou des lèvres, en particulier d’un stick de rouge à lèvres, d’un fond de teint stick, d’un correcteur de teint ou concealer, d’un produit pour les paupières, d’un produit pour les sourcils ou encore d’un eyeliner.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a stick for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips, in particular a lipstick stick , a stick foundation, a complexion corrector or concealer, an eyelid product, an eyebrow product or even an eyeliner. Procédé cosmétique de soin et/ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier des lèvres, comprenant l’application, sur lesdites matières kératiniques, en particulier en particulier la peau et/ou les lèvres, de préférence les lèvres, d’une composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 10.Cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the lips, comprising the application, to the said keratin materials, in particular in particular the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to any of claims 1 to 10.
FR2114160A 2021-12-21 2021-12-21 Non-transfer care and/or makeup composition Pending FR3130613A1 (en)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2114160A FR3130613A1 (en) 2021-12-21 2021-12-21 Non-transfer care and/or makeup composition
PCT/FR2022/052428 WO2023118722A1 (en) 2021-12-21 2022-12-19 Skincare and/or anti-transfer make-up composition

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2114160A FR3130613A1 (en) 2021-12-21 2021-12-21 Non-transfer care and/or makeup composition
FR2114160 2021-12-21

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
FR3130613A1 true FR3130613A1 (en) 2023-06-23

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3096324A (en) 1960-08-24 1963-07-02 Eastman Kodak Co Process for manufacturing sugar esters
CA2519210A1 (en) * 2001-06-21 2002-12-27 Color Access, Inc. Stable cosmetic emulsion with polyamide gelling agent
EP2537865A1 (en) 2010-02-19 2012-12-26 Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd Novel dextrin fatty acid ester that does not cause gelation of liquid oil, and uses thereof
WO2018218497A1 (en) * 2017-05-31 2018-12-06 L'oreal Composition of pickering emulsion comprising pearls in fatty phase

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3096324A (en) 1960-08-24 1963-07-02 Eastman Kodak Co Process for manufacturing sugar esters
CA2519210A1 (en) * 2001-06-21 2002-12-27 Color Access, Inc. Stable cosmetic emulsion with polyamide gelling agent
EP2537865A1 (en) 2010-02-19 2012-12-26 Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd Novel dextrin fatty acid ester that does not cause gelation of liquid oil, and uses thereof
WO2018218497A1 (en) * 2017-05-31 2018-12-06 L'oreal Composition of pickering emulsion comprising pearls in fatty phase

Non-Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 15 February 2021 (2021-02-15), ANONYMOUS: "Sunscreen SPF 60", XP055954386, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/8483795/ Database accession no. 8483795 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 27 February 2020 (2020-02-27), ANONYMOUS: "Smoothing & Plumping Serum", XP055954042, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/7301445/ Database accession no. 7301445 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 30 January 2013 (2013-01-30), ANONYMOUS: "The Rocket Washable Mascara", XP055954403, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/1985748/ Database accession no. 1985748 *

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