FR3127404A1 - Diluted, long-wearing cosmetic composition comprising mixed sensory modifiers - Google Patents

Abstract

Diluted long-wearing cosmetic composition comprising mixed sensory modifiers The invention relates to an anhydrous composition including at least one silicone film-forming agent; a spherical mineral particle, at least one silicone elastomer; at least one colorant; and at least about 60% by weight of at least one solvent. The at least one silicone film-forming agent and the at least one colorant are both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the concentration by weight of the at least one colorant is at least about 3:1. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Diluted, long-wearing cosmetic composition comprising mixed sensory modifiers

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition and a method for making up and/or improving the appearance of a keratinous substrate, and in particular, compositions comprising a silicone film-forming agent, a mixed sensory modifier system, a colorant and at least about 60 percent by weight solvent.

background of the invention

Cosmetic compositions used to make up or improve the appearance of a user's skin must often provide various properties such as long wear, resistance to transfer, dullness and comfort. The inventors of the present invention have recognized that it would be desirable to have a composition which provides unique sensory effects together with one or more of the above properties. In particular, the inventors of the present invention have recognized that it would be desirable to reduce the levels of colorants, for example relative to certain other ingredients in the composition, while retaining one or more of the following properties: long wear, resistance to transfer, dullness and comfort. However, formulating cosmetic products that can offer these properties at the same time can pose certain challenges. Typically, one or more of the properties mentioned above cannot easily be maintained at sufficiently desirable levels.

It has been surprisingly found that the use of a particular mixed sensory modifier system in conjunction with reduced levels of colorants provides a solution to the drawbacks mentioned above.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

According to one embodiment of the present invention, there is provided an anhydrous composition that is long-wearing and transfer-resistant, while providing superior comfort, a non-sticky feel, and a unique sensory profile. The composition includes at least one silicone film-forming agent (such as a silicone resin and/or a polyorganosiloxane copolymer); silica (hydrophilic synthetic amorphous silica particles); at least one silicone elastomer; at least one dye. The composition further includes at least about 60% by weight of at least one solvent. The at least one silicone film-forming agent and the at least one colorant are both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the concentration by weight of the at least one colorant is at least 3:1.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the anhydrous composition is a liquid lipstick composition including from about 2% to about 15% by weight of at least one silicone film-forming agent - the at least one film-forming agent of silicone including a silicone resin and a polyorganosiloxane copolymer. The composition further includes from about 1% to about 25% by weight of at least one silicone elastomer - the at least one silicone elastomer includes a vinyl modified silicone elastomer. The composition further includes from about 60% to about 90% by weight of at least one solvent, at least one colorant, and one spherical mineral particle. The at least one silicone film-forming agent and the at least one colorant are both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the concentration by weight of the at least one colorant is at least about 3:1.

According to another aspect of the invention, a process for making up the lips includes the application to the lips of the composition described above.

In certain embodiments, these compositions are characterized in that they have a ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone elastomer which is less than 5:1.

In certain embodiments, these compositions are characterized in that they have a ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one solvent and the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film-forming agent which is at minus 3.5:1.

According to one embodiment, the at least one solvent and the at least one silicone film-forming agent are both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one solvent and the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film former is at least about 5:1.

According to the present invention, the inventive compositions are related, without being limited thereto, to liquid compositions, such as liquid lipsticks, liners, foundations, mascaras, eye shadows, skin care compositions skin, sunscreens, repellents for the skin, deodorants, compositions for the nails.

In another embodiment, the invention is a process for making up the skin, such as making up the lips by applying the compositions disclosed above to the skin, as well as a process for preparing the inventive composition.

According to another embodiment, the present invention relates to a system of cosmetic compositions comprising (a first) composition as described herein and (a second) topcoat composition.

As used herein, "at least one" means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

"Film-forming" or "film-forming agent" or "film-forming polymer" or "film-forming resin" as used herein means a polymer or resin which leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying film former has evaporated, absorbed into and/or dissipated onto the substrate. A "silicone film former" is a film former which includes at least one silicone (a silicone atom bonded directly to an oxygen atom and also to a carbon atom, as in an organic moiety).

"Transfer resistance", as used herein, refers to the quality exhibited by compositions which are not easily removed by contact with another material, such as, for example, glass, clothing or skin, for example, while eating or drinking. Transfer resistance can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating it. For example, the transfer resistance of a composition can be evaluated by a "kiss" test. The "kiss" test may involve applying the composition to human keratinous material such as hair, skin or lips, followed by rubbing a material, for example a sheet of paper, against the hair, the skin or lips after the expiry of a certain time after application, for example 2 minutes after application. Similarly, the transfer resistance of a composition can be assessed by the amount of product transferred from a wearer to any other substrate, such as transfer from an individual's hair, skin, or lips to a neck. when putting on a garment after the expiration of a certain time following the application of the composition to the hair, the skin or the lips. The amount of composition transferred to the substrate (eg, collar or paper) can then be assessed and compared. For example, a composition may be transfer resistant if a majority of the product remains on the hair, skin or lips of the wearer. Further, the amount transferred can be compared to that transferred by other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, little or no composition is transferred to the substrate from hair, skin or lips.

"Long-wearing" compositions, as used herein, refer to compositions whose color remains the same or substantially the same as when applied, as seen with the naked eye, after an extended period of time. . Long-lasting properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating them. For example, longevity can be evaluated by a test involving applying a composition to human hair, skin or lips and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of a composition can be assessed immediately after it is applied to hair, skin, or lips, and then these characteristics can be reassessed and compared after some time. Additionally, these characteristics can be evaluated against other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. For lip compositions, "long-wearing" typically means that the composition stays on the lips for at least about 4 hours and up to about 24 hours, and retains rich color even after eating.

"Liquid" or "liquid cosmetic" or "liquid lipstick" or "liquid composition" means a composition having a fixed volume, which flows to cover the bottom and takes the shape of the portion of the container it fills and which is slightly compressible (as reported in General chemistry, fourth edition 2005, p. 434).

The term "stickiness" as used herein refers to the adhesion between two substances. For example, the greater the stickiness between two substances, the greater the adhesion between the substances. To quantify the "stickiness", it is useful to determine the "work of adhesion", as defined by the IUPAC, associated with the two substances. Generally speaking, work of adhesion measures the amount of work required to pull two substances apart. Thus, the greater the work of adhesion associated with two substances, the greater the adhesion between the substances, that is to say the greater the stickiness between the two substances.

Adhesive work, and therefore tackiness, can be quantified using acceptable techniques and methods generally used for measuring adhesion and that described below.

"Substituted" as used herein means that it includes at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as amine groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups and polysiloxane groups . The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

The term "substantially free" as used herein means that although it is preferred that no amount of the specific component be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts in the compositions of the invention, provided that such amounts do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the beneficial properties of the conditioning compositions of the invention. In some embodiments, substantially free means less than about 2% of the identified ingredient, such as less than about 1%, such as less than about 0.5% of the composition as a whole. The term "anhydrous" means substantially free of water.

Numerical ranges include bounds and are meant to include all combinations and sub-combinations. For example, from about 5%, 10% or 15% to about 20%, 50% or 60% can refer to about 5% to about 20%, about 5% to about 50%, about 5% to about 60 %, about 10% to about 20%, about 10% to about 50%, about 10% to about 60%, about 15% to about 20%, about 15% to about 50%, or about 15% to about 60% . As used here, a report range is meant to include all specific reports within the given ranges, as well as combinations of sub-ranges between those ranges.

The compositions and methods of the present invention may include, consist, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

Silicone resins

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention include at least one silicone film-forming agent and the total amount of at least one silicone film-forming agent can be present in the composition in a concentration by weight ranging from about 1%, 2% or 5 % to about 10%, 15% or 25%, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

Examples of film forming agents include silicone resins such as those described in U.S. Patent ^No. 5,505,937, U.S. Patent ^No. 5,911,974, U.S. Patent ^No. 5,965,112, U.S. Patent ^No. 5,985 298, US Patent ^No. 6,074,654, US Patent ^No. 6,780,422, US Patent ^No. 6,908,621.

In some embodiments, the composition includes a silicone resin selected from siloxysilicate resin, silsesquioxane resin, and combinations thereof. A non-limiting example of a siloxysilicate according to the present invention is trimethylsiloxysilicate, which can be represented by the following formula:

[(CH3)3SiO]x(SiO4/2)y

wherein x and y may, for example, range from 50 to 80. These siloxysilicates are commercially available from General Electric, Dow Corning, Wacker, Milliken, Siltech, Grant Industries, Momentive and Shin-Etsu Silicones under the trade name Resin MQ®.

According to another embodiment of the present invention, the compositions may contain silsesquioxane resins, including at least one film-forming polypropyl silsesquioxane resin.

Silsesquioxane resins are a specific form of silicone resin. Silicone resin nomenclature is known in the art as "MDTQ" nomenclature, whereby a silicone resin is described according to the various siloxane monomer units that make up the polymer. Each letter of "MDTQ" designates a different pattern type. When the film-forming resin consists mainly of trifunctional units (or T units), it is generally called silsesquioxane resin, which is described, for example, in document US 2006/0 292 096.

Examples of silsesquioxane resins which can be used in the present invention are alkyl silsesquioxane resins which are silsesquioxane homopolymers and/or copolymers having an average siloxane unit of the general formula R1n SiO(4-n)/2, wherein each R1 is a propyl group, wherein more than 80 mole % of R1 is a C ₃ -C ₁₀ alkyl group, n is a value of 1.0 to 1.4, and more than 60 mole % of the copolymer comprises R1SiO3/2 units. Since each R1 is a propyl group, these polymers are referred to as polypropylsilsesquioxane resins or "t-propyl" silsesquioxane resins. These resins and their preparation processes are described, for example in documents US 8,586,013, 2012/0,301,415, 2007/0,093,619 and 2006/0,292,096.

A non-limiting example of a polypropylsilsesquioxane resin suitable for use in the present invention is commercially available from Dow Corning as Dow Corning 670 Fluid or Dow Corning 680 Fluid. These Dow Corning resins have a general formula of RnSiO(4-n)/2 wherein R is independently selected from a hydrogen atom and a monovalent hydrocarbon group comprising 3 carbon atoms, wherein more than 80 mol% of R are propyl groups, n is a value of 1.0 to 1.4, more than 60 mole % of the copolymer comprises RSiO _3/2 units, and having a hydroxyl or alkoxy content of 0.2 to 10 % by weight, for example between 1 and 4% by weight, preferably between 5 and 10% by weight, and more preferably between 6 and 8% by weight. Preferably, the polypropylsilsesquioxane resin has a molecular weight of about 5,000 to about 30,000 and a Tg of about -5°C to about 5°C.

Another embodiment of the present invention exemplifies the composition containing at least one siloxysilicate resin, at least one silsesquioxane resin and/or their mixture.

The at least one silicone resin is generally present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from approximately 1% to approximately 25% such as 1%, 2%, 4% or 5% to approximately 10%, 15 %, 20% or 25%, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

Polyorganosiloxane copolymer

Other silicone film formers suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers. The polyorganosiloxane-containing polymer useful herein is a polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having at least one moiety which contains: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to about 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or as a graft , and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. Non-limiting examples of polymers containing polyorganosiloxanes are disclosed, for example, in US Patent ^No. 8,945,525.

Other polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers which can be used in the composition of the invention include those described in US 5,874,069, US 5,919,441, US 6,051,216, and US 5,981,680.

A preferred polyorganosiloxane-containing polymer for use in the present invention contains at least one moiety selected from formula (III):

and the formula (IV)

in which :

(a) R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are the same or different and can be selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, a siloxane chain, and phenyl;

(b) X is straight or branched chain alkylene having 1 to 30 carbons;

(c) Y is selected from the group consisting of straight or branched chain alkylenes having 1 to 40 carbon atoms;

(d) m is a number between 1 and 700;

(e) n is a number between 1 and 500.

Particularly preferred polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers useful herein are commercially available from Dow Corning under the tradenames DC 8178® and DC 8179®, which are known by the INCI designation Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer.

The at least one polymer containing a polyorganosiloxane is generally present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from approximately 1% to approximately 25%, such as 1%, 2%, 4% or 7% to approximately 10%, 20% or 25%, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

Sensory modifiers

The composition according to the invention also includes a mixed sensory modifier, that is to say including two different classes of sensory modifiers. By sensory modifier is meant a material which improves the tactile and/or optical properties of the composition, during its use. A sensory modifier included in the composition is at least one silicone elastomer (cross-linked silicone polymer). These silicone elastomers are generally not referred to as "silicone film formers" because they tend to form particles that do not form films. The other sensory modifier is a spherical mineral particle.

Silicone elastomer

In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer. The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer can be in the form of a gel or a powder.

The “organopolysiloxane elastomer” or “silicone elastomer” or “silicone cross-linked polymer” thickens the composition, adds the fluffy (spongy) effect and improves the application of the finished product. In addition, it provides a very soft feel and a mattifying effect after application, which is particularly advantageous for skin products.

The expression "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers which do not contain any hydrophilic chain, and in particular polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer free of polyoxyalkylene units and polyglyceryl units.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in U.S. Patent ^No. 8,637,057.

A class of non-emulsifying silicone elastomers which are particularly useful in the present invention include vinyl-modified silicone elastomers such as vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymers, such as those having the INCI designation DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, as available in commercially from Dow as DOWSIL 3903 LIQUID SATIN BLEND or from Shin-Etsu as USG-107A.

The vinyl-modified silicone elastomer is generally present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to about 10%, such as 0.2%, 0.25 or 0.3% at about 1%, 2%, 3%, 5% or 10%, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

In some embodiments, the at least one silicone elastomer includes an additional silicone elastomer (not including a vinyl group) such as both a vinyl-modified silicone elastomer and an additional silicone elastomer. Additional non-emulsifying elastomers particularly useful in this invention include any of the various silicone elastomers such as those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by Shin-Etsu Company, DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506 by Dow Company, and SFE 839 by General Electric Company.

In one embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are transported in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomers useful in this invention are dimethicone crosslinked polymer gels (available as mixtures of dimethicone crosslinked polymers in solvents) having viscosity values of about 150 to about 700 mm ² /s, from about 200 to about 650 mm²/s and from about 300 to about 600 mm²/s.

Blends of high molecular weight silicone elastomers in volatile solvents, such as silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, may be particularly useful for the present invention, as defined above.

Specific but non-limiting examples of silicone elastomer gels applicable in this invention are represented by DC EL-8040 ID (INCI name: Isododecane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer) and DC EL-9140 DM (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer ) and DOWSIL EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer), supplied by Dow Corning.

Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomers and their synthesis are disclosed, for example, in US Patent ^No. 8,637,057 and US/2015 0,174,048.

The total quantity of the at least one silicone elastomer generally present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention ranges from approximately 1% to approximately 25% such as 1%, 2% or 4% to approximately 5%, 10%, 15% or 20%, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

In certain embodiments, the proportion of at least one silicone elastomer relative to the at least one silicone film-forming agent is relatively high. In certain embodiments, the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the at least one silicone elastomer are both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one film-forming agent of silicone and the concentration by weight of the at least one colorant is less than about 5:1, such as from about 1.5:1 to about 5:1, such as from about 3:1 to about 5:1, like from about 3:1 to about 4:1.

Spherical mineral particles

Another sensory modifier included in the composition is at least one spherical mineral particle. The spherical mineral particle can have a composition mainly consisting of mineral oxide such as silica (for example particles of hydrophilic synthetic amorphous silica), for example uncoated silica. By "spherical" is meant that the particle has a roughly spherical shape. The average particle diameter can range from about 1 to about 50 microns, such as about 1 to about 5 microns. The oil absorption of the spherical mineral particles can be less than about 100 mL/100 grams of powder, such as from about 20 to about 90 mL/100 grams of powder. The spherical mineral particles can be non-porous and have a specific surface of approximately 1 m ² /g to approximately 20 m ² /g, as measured by BET.

In some notable embodiments, the spherical mineral particle is hollow or has a core-shell structure. An example of hollow spherical silica includes Silica Ballon BA4 available from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals. This silica has an oil absorption of 40 mL/100 grams of powder and an average particle size of approximately 4 µm.

Other suitable silicas include those described in US Patents 9,441,139 and US 9,834,663. Suitable commercially available silicas include Sunspheres H51 from Asahi Glass and Silica Balloon BA4 available from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals.

The spherical mineral particles can be present in a concentration by weight in the composition, from about 0.5%, 1% or 2% to about 2%, 3%, 4%, 5% or 10%. The spherical mineral particles may be present in such a concentration that the concentration ratio by weight to the one or more silicone elastomers is about 0.2:5, such as about 0.4:2, such as about 0.5:1.

Solvent

The compositions of the invention include at least one solvent. The at least one solvent is generally present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in relatively high amounts in order to ensure sufficient dilution of the at least one silicone film-forming agent and/or of the at least one colorant. The solvent is present in an amount of at least about 60% by weight in the composition and may be present in an amount ranging from about 60%, 65% or 70% to about 70%, 80%, 85% or 90 %, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole. In certain notable embodiments, the solvent is present in a concentration by weight ranging from about 60% to about 85% by weight.

The solvent can be a volatile solvent or a non-volatile solvent, or both.

In certain embodiments, the expression “volatile solvent” designates any non-aqueous compound capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. In certain other embodiments, the term "volatile solvent" means any non-aqueous compound having a flash point below about 120°C, such as below about 100°C, such as from about 40°C to about 100 °C.

Examples of suitable volatile solvents include volatile hydrocarbon oils such as, for example, volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and in particular branched C ₈ to C ₁₆ alkanes such as C isoalkanes ₈ to C ₁₆ (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopar or Permethyl, branched esters in C ₈ to C ₁₆ such as isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate, alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include, but are not limited to, those listed in Table 1 below.

Compound Flash point (°C) Isododecane 43 Isohexadecane 102 Isodecyl neopentanoate 118 Propylene glycol n-butyl ether 60 Ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate 58 Propylene Glycol Methyl Ether Acetate 46 Isopar L (C ₁₁ -C ₁₃ isoparaffin) 62 Isopar H (C ₁₁ -C ₁₂ isoparaffin) 56

The volatile solvent can also be chosen from volatile silicone oils, which can be linear or cyclic, having a viscosity, at room temperature, of less than or equal to 6 cSt, and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, optionally substituted by alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

Examples of suitable volatile silicone oils include, but are not limited to, those listed in Table 2 below.

Compound Flash point (°C) Viscosity (cSt) Octyltrimethicone 93 1.2 Hexyltrimethicone 79 1.2 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 72 4.2 (cyclopentasiloxane or D5) Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 55 2.5 (cyclotetadimethylsiloxane or D4) Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) 93 7 Decamethyltetrasiloxane(L4) 63 1.7 Shin Etsu's KF-96A 94 6 PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 (1.5cSt) from Dow Corning 56 1.5 PDMS DC 200 (2cSt) from Dow Corning 87 2 PDMS DC 200 (5cSt) from Dow Corning 134 5 PDMS DC 200 (3St) from Dow Corning 102 3

The at least one volatile solvent is generally present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 2% to about 75% by weight, such as from about 2%, 4% or 10% by weight to about 10 %, 15%, 40%, 50%, 60% or 75% based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges.

According to one embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one volatile solvent which is present in a concentration by weight of approximately 5% or of approximately 50% relative to the composition.

In certain embodiments, the at least one solvent and the at least one silicone film-forming agent are both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one solvent and the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film former is at least about 3.5:1.

Non-volatile solvent

The solvent for the composition can consist of or include a non-volatile solvent (non-volatile oil).

The volatility of oils can be determined using the evaporation rate as presented in U.S. Patent ^No. 6,338,839.

Nonvolatile oils include low viscosity oils (having a viscosity of about 5 to about 10 centipoise) and high viscosity oils (having a viscosity of about 100 to about 10,000 centipoise), and mixtures thereof. Unlike waxes, oils are liquid at room temperature.

According to a certain embodiment of the present invention, the oil is a high viscosity oil which is a silicone oil and/or a hydrocarbon oil. By "high viscosity" is meant an oil having a viscosity greater than 100 cSt, in particular greater than 250 cSt at 25°C. More particularly, the non-volatile oil is chosen from a silicone oil. Such oils are described, for example, in US 2011/0293550 and US 2004/0126350.

Non-limiting examples of suitable non-volatile silicone oils include polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, including cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (CTFA designation “dimethicones”) comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; polydiethyl-siloxanes; and dimethicone fluids such as dimethicone fluids having a viscosity within particular ranges of centipoise (cps) or centistokes (cSt) when measured at 25°C. For example, the viscosity may be from about 300 cps or cSt at 25°C to about 1500 cps or cSt at 25°C, such as from about 300 cps or cSt at 25°C to about 1200 cps or cSt at 25°C.

Specific examples of high viscosity silicone oils suitable for this invention include, but are not limited to, Xiameter® silicone fluids from Dow Corning.

According to some embodiments, the composition is substantially free or free of non-volatile solvents having at least one or more phenyl groups. These solvents are for example described in US Patent ^No. 8,945,525.

The at least one non-volatile silicone oil may be present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 2% to about 75% by weight, such as from about 2%, 4% or 10% by weight to about 10%, 15%, 40%, 50%, 60% or 75%, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges.

Dyes

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also contain at least one cosmetically acceptable colorant such as a pigment or a dye. Examples of suitable colorants include, but are not limited to, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pearlescent pigments, iridescent or optically variable pigments, and mixtures thereof. By pigment is meant inorganic or organic, white or colored particles. Said pigments can optionally be surface treated within the scope of the present invention, without being limited thereto, by treatments, such as silicones, perfluorinated compounds, lecithin and amino acids.

Representative examples of inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of rutile or anatase titanium dioxide, coded in the Color Index as CI 77891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, coded under CI references 77499, 77492 and 77491; manganese violet (CI 77,742); ultramarine blue (CI 77 007); chromium oxide (CI 77,288); chromium hydrate (CI 77,289); and Ferric Blue (CI 77,510) and mixtures thereof.

Representative examples of organic pigments and lakes useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, D&C Red ^No. 19 (CI 45,170), D&C Red ^No. 9 (CI 15,585), D&C Red ^No. 21 ( CI 45 380), D&C Orange ^# 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Orange ^# 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red ^# 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Red ^# 13 (CI 15 630), D&C Red ^# 7 (CI 15850), D&C Red ^# 6 (CI 15850), D&C Yellow ^# 5 (CI 19140), D&C Red ^# 36 (CI 12085), D&C Orange ^# 10 (CI 45425), D&C Yellow ^# 6 (CI 15985), D&C Red ^# 30 (CI 73360), D&C Red ^# 3 (CI 45430) and cochineal carmine dye or lakes (CI 75,570) and mixtures thereof.

Representative examples of pearlescent pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of white pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide coated mica, titanium dioxide coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as those with bismuth oxychloride base and mixtures thereof.

The at least one colorant may be present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10% by weight, such as from about 1% 2%, 4% or 5% by weight to about 5 %, 6%, 8% or 10%, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges.

According to some embodiments, the at least one colorant (eg, the total amount of inorganic pigments and lake pigments) is present in relatively low concentration compared to the at least one silicone film-forming agent. For example, the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the at least one colorant are generally both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the concentration by weight of the at least one colorant is at least 3:1. According to other embodiments, the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the at least one colorant are both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one film-forming agent of silicone and the concentration by weight of the at least one colorant is from 3:1 to 8:1.

Wax

Cosmetic compositions of the present invention may optionally contain at least one wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic fatty compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), has a reversible solid/liquid state change (i.e. the state of the material can change with temperature), has a melting point above 45°C, preferably above 55°C, more preferably between about 65°C and about 120°C, and has an anisotropic crystal organization at the solid state. The melting point of wax can be measured using a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold as DSC 30 by Mettler. For petroleum-derived waxes, such as microcrystalline wax, the melting point can be measured by the ASTM D-127 dropping point method.

Waxes are those generally used in cosmetics and dermatology. The waxes can be of natural origin, for example beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber or sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites and hydrogenated oils, for example hydrogenated jojoba oil.

Waxes can also be of synthetic origin, for example polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and glycerides which are solid at 40° vs.

Particular waxes include polyethylene waxes, for example the product sold as Performalene 500-L Polyethylene (New Phase Technology), and polymethylene waxes, for example the product sold as Cirebelle 303 (Sasol).

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may contain at least one polypropylsilsesquioxane wax substituted by alkyl units having at least 30 carbons.

Polypropylsilsesquioxane waxes, in general, have been disclosed in Patent Publication WO 2005/100444 and US Patent ^No. 8,586,013.

It should however be noted that not all polypropylsilsesquioxane waxes give stable colored cosmetic emulsions. More particularly, it has been found that only polypropylsilsesquioxane waxes substituted with alkyl units having at least 30 carbons are stable.

A particularly preferred polypropylsilsesquioxane wax for use in _{the present invention is a C 30-45 ALKYLDIMETHYLSILYL} POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE commercially available from DOW CORNING under the tradename SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax.

When present in the compositions of the present invention, the at least one wax may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 30% by weight, from about 0.02% to about 25 %, typically about 0.03% to 15% by weight, preferably about 0.05% to about 5% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, all weights based on weight of the composition as a whole.

Expenses

The fillers usable in the compositions of the invention include, for example, silica powder; talc; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those based on ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as corn, wheat or rice starch, cross-linked or not, such as cross-linked starch powders with octenyl succinate anhydride, sold under the name Dry-Flo by the National Starch company; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; clays (bentone, laponite, saponite, etc.); and their mixtures.

The fillers may be present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10% by weight, such as from about 0.1%, 0.5% or 1% by weight to about 2% , 3%, 5% or 10%, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges. Propylene carbonate, if present, may be present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.25% to about 2% by weight, or, for example, in an amount such as The weight ratio of swelling clay to propylene carbonate is about 2:1 to about 5:1, if these materials are present.

In some embodiments, if expanded perlite is included among the fillers, the concentration by weight is less than 10%. In certain other embodiments, the composition is substantially free of swelling clays (clay materials capable of swelling in water). An example of a swelling clay is smectite clay. The crystal structure of the smectite group is an octahedral alumina sheet between two tetrahedral silica sheets. In one notable embodiment, the swelling clay is bentonite. Bentonite is a rock formed from highly colloidal and plastic clays composed mainly of montmorillonite, a clay mineral of the smectite group, and is produced by in situ devitrification of volcanic ash. In addition to montmorillonite, bentonite may contain feldspar, cristobalite and crystalline quartz. Bentonite has the ability to form thixotropic gels with water, an ability to absorb large amounts of water. Variations in pore water and exchangeable cations in the interlayer space affect the properties of bentonite and thus the commercial uses of different types of bentonite.

Although in some embodiments certain fillers such as hydrophobic silica aerogels may be included. In certain other embodiments, the compositions are substantially free of hydrophobic silica aerogels.

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, generally by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO ₂ . This type of drying prevents shrinkage of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker CJ. and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990. Silica aerogels, in general, have been disclosed in US Patent ^No. 9,320,689.

As hydrophobic silica airgels that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the airgel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

Use will be made more particularly of the airgel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass. ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g.

The silica airgel particles, if used, can be used in the inventive compositions from 0.1% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 0.1%, 0.2% or 0.5 % to about 0.5%, 1%, 2% or 5% by weight, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

Additives

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable additive such as an additional thickener, an additional film-forming agent, a plasticizer, an antioxidant, an essential oil, a botanical extract, a perfume, a preservative, fragrance, pasty fatty substance, neutralizing agent, and polymer, and cosmetically active agents and/or dermatologically active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids and medication.

According to the present invention, additives are incorporated from about 0.01%, 0.5% or 1% up to about 1%, 2% or 5% by weight.

The compositions of the present invention are useful as compositions for making up the skin, in particular the lips. The compositions can be used, for example, as a one-coat treatment or as a basecoat or topcoat.

The compositions can be made by methods known to those skilled in the art, for example by charging a container with one or more solvents or oil and adding various ingredients and mixing. Pigments can be pre-ground into a slurry or slurry before being added.

The present invention will be better understood from the examples which follow. The examples are intended to be non-restrictive and illustrative only, the scope of the invention being defined by the claims.

EXAMPLES

Compositions according to the invention described herein had greater than 60% by weight solvent and included hollow silica and vinyl-functional silicone elastomer as sensory modifiers, lake pigment as colorant, isododecane as volatile solvent, silicone film-forming agents: trimethylsiloxysilicate as silicone resin and polyorganosiloxane, a copolymer; an additional silicone elastomer, and dimethicone as the non-volatile silicone oil. The ratio between the concentration by weight of two silicone film formers and the concentration by weight of at least one colorant was greater than 3:1. A suitable composition is shown in Table 1 below and applied to the lips to create a hazy optical effect. The composition provided long wear, transfer resistance and dullness.

Ingredient weight percent volatile solvent 30 to 40% Non-volatile solvent 30 to 40% silicone resin 5 to 10% Polyorganosiloxane copolymer 5 to 8% Vinyl-functional silicone elastomer 0.1 to 0.5% Additional silicone elastomer 3 to 6% Hollow spherical silica 2 to 5% silica silylate 0.2 to 1% Other ingredients 0 – 3% Relationship between silicone film formers and dye 3 to 7 Relationship between silicone film formers and silicone elastomers 2.9 Relationship between solvents and silicone film formers 5.0

Process for preparing the inventive composition(s)

The mixture of pigment, isododecane and MQ resin was ground to create a pigment paste. The mixture was processed using a Discontimill mill until the paste passed the Hegman gauge test (ASTM D1210-05). Then the crushed paste was added to the remaining ingredients. The mixture was heated to 80°C and stirred, until a homogeneous liquid composition was obtained. After that, the inventive composition was cooled to room temperature and transferred to the desired containers and/or applicators.

Claims (9)

Liquid lipstick composition comprising:
from 2% to 15% by weight of at least one silicone film-forming agent, in which the at least one silicone film-forming agent comprises a silicone resin and/or a polyorganosiloxane copolymer;
from 1% to 25% by weight of at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, wherein the at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer comprises a vinyl-modified silicone elastomer;
from 60% to 90% by weight of at least one solvent;
at least one colorant; And
a spherical mineral particle, the liquid lipstick composition being anhydrous, in which the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the at least one colorant are both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration in weight of the at least one silicone film former and the concentration by weight of the at least one colorant is at least about 3:1. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one silicone film-forming agent includes at least one silicone resin and at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or according to claim 2, further comprising a silica airgel. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the at least one colorant are both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film former and the concentration by weight of the at least one colorant is 3:1 to 8:1. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the at least one colorant are both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film former and the concentration by weight of the at least one colorant is 3:1 to 5:1. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one solvent and the at least one silicone film-forming agent are both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one solvent and the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film former is at least 3.5:1. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one solvent and the at least one silicone film-forming agent are both present in a concentration by weight such that the ratio between the concentration by weight of the at least one solvent and the concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film former is at least 5:1. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the solvent comprises at least one volatile solvent which is present in a concentration by weight of 5% or 50% with respect to the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the solvent comprises a volatile solvent chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, and in which the solvent further comprises at least one dimethicone fluid having a viscosity greater than 300 cSt and less than 1200 cSt at 25°C.