FR3113239A1 - COSMETIC SYSTEM AND LONG-LASTING LIP TOPCOAT - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic system and top coat for long-lasting lips A cosmetic system including a lip base coat composition that includes at least a first silicone film former, a colorant, and a volatile hydrocarbon oil, and a top coat composition including at least a second silicone film former in a non-volatile oil carrier. Finishing processes and coats are also offered. Figure for abstract: none

Description

COSMETIC SYSTEM AND LONG-LASTING LIP TOPCOAT

Field of invention

The present invention relates to a topcoat composition for long-lasting lip compositions comprising at least one silicone film-forming agent, as well as cosmetic systems, kits and methods for treating, making up and enhancing the appearance of lips, including a topcoat composition for application to a basecoat composition.

D discussion context

A number of cosmetic compositions, including pigmented cosmetics such as lip shadows or lipsticks, have been formulated with the aim of possessing long-lasting properties during their application. Unfortunately, many of these compositions generally do not possess good long-lasting/transfer resistance properties and high gloss.

For example, regarding lip compositions, commercial products containing silicon resins such as MQ resins are known. Such products are known to provide good long life/transfer resistance properties.

Sometimes a second composition (top coat) is applied separately to such products to improve poor properties of the compositions to make the products acceptable to consumers. However, topcoat compositions tend to diminish the long-lasting/transfer-resistant properties of lip compositions, thereby making the long-lasting/transfer-resistant composition less acceptable to consumers and less acceptable in their desired goal.

Thus, there remains a need for improved lip compositions and systems having improved cosmetic properties, in particular good characteristics of transfer resistance, feel and gloss on application.

Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a topcoat composition for long-lasting lip compositions which imparts or maintains good cosmetic properties such as, for example, good transfer resistance, feel and shine when applied. application to a long-lasting lip composition.

In one aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic system comprising (1) a lip base coat composition including at least a first silicone film-forming agent, a colorant, and a volatile hydrocarbon oil, and (2) a base coat composition finish including at least a second silicone film-forming agent in a non-volatile oil carrier.

In another aspect, the present invention relates to a method of making up the lips. The method includes applying to the lips a first composition including at least a first silicone film-forming agent, a colorant, and a volatile hydrocarbon oil to form a base coat. After a waiting period, a second composition including at least a second silicone film-forming agent in a non-volatile oil carrier is applied to form a top coat over the base coat.

In another aspect, the present invention relates to a topcoat composition for use on the lips, wherein the topcoat consists essentially of from about 15% by weight to about 30% by weight of at least one silicone film former; from about 60% to about 85% non-volatile silicone oil; and from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of one or more cosmetic additives, wherein the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the one or more cosmetic additives are dispersed or dissolved in the non-volatile silicone oil .

Detailed description of the invention

According to the invention, the term “anhydrous” refers to a composition containing no water, that is to say a composition in which the water which may be present comes solely from crystallization or adsorption water. starting materials. In any case, it contains less than about 2% by weight water, such as less than about 1% water, such as less than about 0.5% water, such as less than about 0.1% water.

All percentages of ingredients present are listed on an active basis unless specifically stated otherwise. Further, all ingredient percentages are percent by weight unless specifically stated otherwise.

As used herein, the term "at least one" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions must be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "approximately", meaning within 15% , such that, within 10%, the number indicated. For example, about 10% means 8.5% to 11.5%, such as between 9% and 11%.

"Film-forming" or "film-forming agent" or "film-forming polymer" or "film-forming resin" as used herein means a polymer or resin which leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed into and/or dissipated onto the substrate.

"Transfer resistance" as used herein refers to the quality displayed by compositions which are not easily removed by contact with another material, such as, for example, glass, clothing or skin, for example, when eating or drinking. Transfer resistance can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating it. For example, the transfer resistance of a composition can be evaluated by a "kiss" test. The "kiss" test may involve applying the composition to human keratinous material such as hair, skin or lips followed by rubbing a material, for example, a sheet of paper, against the hair , the skin or the lips after expiration of a certain period of time after application, such as 2 minutes after application. Similarly, the transfer resistance of a composition can be assessed by the amount of product transferred from a wearer to any other substrate, such as a transfer from an individual's hair, skin or lips to a collar when placing it on clothing after the expiration of a certain period of time following the application of the composition to the hair, skin or lips. The amount of composition transferred to the substrate (eg, collar, or paper) can then be assessed and compared. For example, a composition may be transfer resistant if a major portion of the product is left on the wearer's hair, skin, or lips. Additionally, the amount transferred can be compared to that transferred by other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, little or no composition is transferred to the substrate from the hair, skin or lips.

"Long-lasting" compositions as used herein refer to compositions where the color remains the same or substantially the same as when applied, as seen with the naked eye, after a extended duration. Long lasting properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long duration can be assessed by a test involving applying a composition to human hair, skin, or lips and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of a composition can be evaluated immediately after application to hair, skin or lips and these characteristics can then be re-evaluated and compared after a certain period of time. Additionally, these characteristics can be evaluated against other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. For lip compositions, "long-lasting" typically means that the composition stays on the lips for at least about 4 hours to about 24 hours, and retains rich color even after eating.

"Liquid" or "liquid cosmetic" or "liquid lipstick" or "liquid composition" means a composition having a fixed volume, flowing to cover the bottom and taking the shape of the portion of the container which it fills and is slightly compressible.

"Tackiness" as used herein refers to the adhesion between two substances. For example, the more tack there is between two substances, the more adhesion there is between the substances. To quantify "tackiness", it is useful to determine the "adhesion work", as defined by IUPAC, associated with the two substances. Generally speaking, work of adhesion measures the amount of work required to pull two substances apart. Thus, the greater the adhesion work associated with two substances, the greater the adhesion between the substances, meaning that the tackiness between the two substances is greater.

Adhesion work, and thus tackiness, can be quantified using acceptable techniques and methods generally used for measuring adhesion and that described throughout.

"Substituted" as used herein means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as amine groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups , and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

"Substantially free" as used herein means that while it is preferred that no amount of the specific component be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts in the compositions of the invention provided that these amounts do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the beneficial properties of the conditioning compositions of the invention. In some embodiments, substantially free means less than about 2% of the identified ingredient, such as less than about 1%, such as less than about 0.5% of the ingredient.

"Approximately", as it refers, for example, to concentrations of ingredients, means within 10% to 15% of the number indicated.

Numerical ranges include terminals and are understood to include all combinations and sub-combinations. For example, from about 5%, 10% or 15% to about 20%, 50% or 60% means about 5% to about 20%, about 5% to about 50%, about 5% to about 60%, about 10% to about 20%, about 10% to about 50%, about 10% to about 60%, about 15% to about 20%, about 15% to about 50%, or about 15% to about 60%.

All concentrations herein are by weight unless otherwise specifically noted.

"Keratinous materials" include materials containing keratin such as hair, skin, eyebrows, lips and nails.

"Volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about 100°C.

"Non-volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of greater than about 100°C.

“Base of assets” as used herein means considering only the particular ingredient component (e.g., in a composition) and ignoring other chemically unrelated components that may also be present in the same source raw material. that particular component.

The compositions and methods of the present invention may include, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations. ) described here or otherwise useful.

Base layer composition

According to embodiments of the present invention, a long-lasting lip composition including at least one silicone film-forming agent is provided. Preferably, the silicone film-forming agent is selected from the group consisting of silicone resins, polyorganosiloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. The basecoat compositions of the present invention can be in any form, either liquid or non-liquid (semi-solid, soft solid, solid, etc.). For example, it can be a paste, a solid, a gel, or a cream. It may be an emulsion, such as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, such as an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion or a water-in-water emulsion. oil in water, or a solid, rigid or flexible gel. The composition of the invention may, for example, include an external or continuous fatty phase. The composition can also be a molded or cast composition in stick or dish form.

In some notable embodiments, the basecoat is a liquid. In certain other notable embodiments, the base coat is a solution or dispersion including at least one silicone film-forming agent and at least one colorant in a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

According to one embodiment, the base layer is a liquid lipstick comprising from approximately 20% to approximately 85% of the volatile hydrocarbon oil, from approximately 5% to approximately 45% of the first silicone film-forming agent, from approximately about 1% to about 20% of the colorant, and the base coat is substantially free of waxes, water, and non-volatile oils.

Silicone resins

According to preferred embodiments, the long-lasting lip compositions of the present invention include at least one silicone resin. Examples of suitable silicone resins include those described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 5,505,937, U.S. Patent No. 5,911,974, U.S. Patent No. 5,965,112, U.S. Patent No. 5,985,298, U.S. No. 6,074,654, U.S. Patent No. 6,780,422, U.S. Patent No. 6,908,621.

According to preferred embodiments, the long-lasting lip compositions contain siloxysilicate resins. A non-limiting example of a siloxysilicate in accordance with the present invention is trimethyl siloxysilicate, which can be represented by the following formula:

[(CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO] _x (SiO _4/2 ) _y

wherein x and y may, for example, range from 50 to 80. Such siloxysilicates are commercially available from General Electric, Dow Corning, Wacker, Milliken, Siltech, Grant Industries, Momentive and Shin-Etsu Silicones under the trade name commercial Resin MQ®.

According to preferred embodiments, the long-lasting lip compositions contain silsesquioxane resins such as, for example, polypropyl silsesquioxane resin.

Silsesquioxane resins are a specific form of silicone resin. The nomenclature for silicone resins is known in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature, whereby a silicone resin is described according to the various monomeric siloxane units that make up the polymer. Each letter of the "MDTQ" designates a different pattern type. When the film-forming resin consists predominantly of trifunctional units (or T units), it is generally called a silsesquioxane resin, which is described, for example, in document US 2006/0292096.

Examples of silsesquioxane resins which can be used in the present invention are alkyl silsesquioxane resins which are homopolymers and/or copolymers of silsesquioxane having an average siloxane unit of general formula R¹ _not SiO_(4-n)/2, where each R1 is a propyl group, wherein more than 80 mole % of R1 is a C-alkyl group₃to C₁₀, n is a value of 1.0 to 1.4, and more than 60 mole % of the copolymer includes R units¹SiO_3/2. Since each R1 is a propyl group, these polymers are called polypropyl silsesquioxane resins or "t-propyl" silsesquioxane resins. These resins and their methods of preparation are described, for example in documents US 8,586,013, 2012/0301415, 2007/0093619, and 2006/0292096.

A non-limiting example of a polypropyl silsesquioxane resin suitable for use in the present invention is commercially available from Dow Corning as Dow Corning 670 Fluid or Dow Corning 680 Fluid. These Dow Corning resins have the general formula R _n SiO _(4-n)/2 in which R is independently selected from a hydrogen atom and a monovalent hydrocarbon group comprising 3 carbon atoms, in which more than 80 mol% of R are propyl groups, n is a value of 1.0 to 1.4, more than 60 mole % of the copolymer includes RSiO _3/2 units, and having a hydroxyl or alkoxy content of 0.2 to 10 % by weight, for example between 1 and 4% by weight, preferably between 5 and 10% by weight, and more preferably between 6 and 8% by weight. Preferably, the polypropyl silsesquioxane resin has a molecular weight of about 5,000 to about 30,000 and a Tg of about -5°C to about 5°C.

According to preferred embodiments, the long-lasting lip composition contains at least one silicone resin selected from the group consisting of siloxysilicate resins, silsesquioxane resins, and mixtures thereof.

The at least one silicone resin is preferably present in the long-lasting lip compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 5% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 10% to about 25% by weight, and preferably from about 15% to about 20% by weight, inclusive of all ranges and subranges inclusive, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

Volatile hydrocarbon oils

The basecoat composition includes at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil. The term “oil”, as used here, means non-aqueous compounds having a melting point of less than approximately 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 ⁵ Pa). Oils are generally immiscible with water, where "immiscible" is meant to mean that mixing the same amount of water and oil, after mixing (e.g. Rayneri 550 rpm; 10 minutes), does not does not lead to a stable solution including just one phase, under normal conditions of temperature and pressure.

Oils generally include a hydrophobic moiety, such as satisfying one or more of the following three criteria: (a) has a carbon chain of at least six carbons in which none of the six carbons is a carbonyl carbon or has a hydrophilic moiety (defined below) directly related to it; (b) has two or more alkyl siloxy groups; or (c) has two or more oxypropylene groups in sequence. The hydrophobic moiety can include linear, cyclic, aromatic, saturated or unsaturated groups. The hydrophobic compound is in some embodiments non-amphiphilic and as such in this embodiment does not include hydrophilic moieties, such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, or nonionic groups, which are polar, including sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, ammonium moieties, including mono-, di-, and tri-alkylammonium, pyridinium, imidazolinium, amidinium, poly(ethyleneiminium), ammonioalkylsulfonate, ammonioalkylcarboxylate, amphoacetate, and poly(ethyleneoxy) species sulfonyl. In some embodiments, the oil does not include hydroxyl moieties. In some embodiments, the oil is not surfactant - i.e., when added at a 1% concentration to water, does not reduce the surface tension of the water less than 50 dynes/cm.

Examples of suitable volatile hydrocarbon oils include, for example, volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and in particular C alkanes₈to C₁₆branched such as C isoalkanes₈to C₁₆ (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, C-branched esters₈to C₁₆ such as isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate, alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, volatile hydrocarbon-based oils have a flash point of at least 40°C.

Examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include, but are not limited to, those given in Table 1 below.

Compound Flash point (°C) Isododecane 43 Isohexadecane 102 Propylene glycol n-butyl ether 60 Ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate 58 Propylene glycol methyl ether acetate 46 Isopar L (isoparaffin C ₁₁ -C ₁₃ ) 62 Isopar H (isoparaffin C ₁₁ -C ₁₂ ) 56

In addition to the volatile hydrocarbon oil, the base coat may optionally include one or more volatile silicone oils. The volatile silicone oil, if it is present, can be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils, such as those having a viscosity, at room temperature, of less than or equal to 6 cSt, and comprising from 2 to 7 atoms of silicon, optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

Examples of suitable volatile silicone oils include, but are not limited to, those listed in Table 2 below.

Compound Flash point (°C) Viscosity (cSt) Octyltrimethicone 93 1.2 Hexyltrimethicone 79 1.2 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 72 4.2 (cyclopentasiloxane or D5) Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 55 2.5 (cyclotetadimethylsiloxane or D4) Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) 93 7 Decamethyltetrasiloxane(L4) 63 1.7 KF-96 A from Shin Etsu 94 6 PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning 56 1.5 PDMS DC 200 (2 cSt) from Dow Corning 87 2 PDMS DC 200 (3 St) from Dow Corning 102 3

According to some embodiments, the one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils are present in a concentration by weight that is greater than the concentration by weight of the one or more volatile silicone oils. According to certain other embodiments, the one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils are present in a concentration by weight that is at least 2 to about 10 times that of the one or more volatile silicone oils.

The at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil is generally present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 5% to about 50% by weight; such as from about 10% to about 45% by weight; such as from about 15% to about 40% by weight, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

The at least one volatile silicone oil, if present, is generally present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 25% by weight; such as from about 2% to about 15% by weight; such as from about 3% to about 10% by weight, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

In notable embodiments, the basecoat compositions of the present invention may include at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer. The polyorganosiloxane copolymer useful herein is preferably a polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having at least one moiety which contains: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to about 1000 organosiloxane units in the moiety chain or as a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. Non-limiting examples of polyorganosiloxane copolymers are disclosed, for example, in the US patent. No. 8,945,525.

Additional polyorganosiloxane copolymers which can be used in the long-lasting lip compositions of the present invention include those described in US 5,874,069, US 5,919,441, US 6,051,216, and US 5,981,680.

A preferred polyorganosiloxane copolymer for use in the present invention contains at least one moiety selected from formula (III):

and the formula (IV)

in which :

(a) R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are the same or different and can be selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, a siloxane chain, and phenyl;

(b) X is straight or branched chain alkylene having 1 to 30 carbons;

(c) Y is selected from the group consisting of straight or branched chain alkylenes having 1 to 40 carbons;

(d) m is a number between 1 and 700;

(e) n is a number between 1 and 500.

Particularly preferred polyorganosiloxane copolymers useful herein are commercially available from Dow Corning under the tradenames DC 8178® and DC 8179®, which are known by the INCI designation Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer.

Preferably, the polyorganosiloxane copolymer is present in the long-lasting lip compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 2% to about 35% by weight, preferably from about 5% to about 30% by weight, and preferably from about 7% to about 20% by weight, inclusive of all ranges and subranges, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

According to preferred embodiments, the long-lasting lip composition may additionally include at least one silicone elastomer. Preferably, the silicone elastomer is a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer. “Non-emulsifying” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers which do not contain hydrophilic chains, in particular polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition includes a silicone elastomer which is devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and polyglyceryl units.

Suitable examples of non-emulsifying elastomers are described in US 8,637,057.

Additional suitable examples of non-emulsifying elastomers useful in this invention include, but are not limited to, those sold as KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by Shin-Etsu Company, DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506 by Dow Corning Company, and SFE 839 by Momentive Performance Materials Company.

The silicone elastomers are preferably in the form of a gel or a powder.

According to preferred embodiments, the silicone elastomer particles are carried in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles. Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomers useful in this invention are dimethicone crosslinked polymer gels (blends of dimethicone crosslinked polymers in solvents) having viscosity values of about 150 and at about 700 mm²/s, d 200 to about 650 mm²/s and from about 300 to about 600 mm²/s, inclusive of all ranges and sub-ranges.

Blends of high molecular weight silicone elastomers in volatile solvents, such as silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof may be particularly useful for the present invention.

Specific examples of suitable silicone elastomeric gels include DC EL-8040 ID (INCI name: Isododecane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer) and DC EL-9140 DM (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer), supplied by Dow Corning.

Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomers and their synthesis are disclosed, for example, in U.S. 8,637,057 and US/20150174048.

Without wishing to make any particular theory, it is believed that the silicone elastomer thickens the composition, provides the mattress (spongy) effect and/or improves the application properties of the long-lasting lip composition. Also, it provides a very soft sensation and/or a mattifying effect after application.

Preferably, the silicone elastomer is present in a content ranging from 1 percent to 30 percent by weight of active material (dry matter), preferably from about 1.5 percent to about 20 percent, and from preferably from 2 percent to 10 percent by weight based on the total weight of the long-lasting lip composition, including all ranges and subranges included.

Additionally, basecoat compositions of the present invention may optionally further include at least one cosmetically acceptable colorant such as a pigment or dye. Examples of suitable pigments include, but are not limited to, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pearlescent pigments, iridescent or optically variable pigments, and mixtures thereof. A pigment should be understood as referring to inorganic or organic, white or colored particles. Said pigments may optionally be surface treated within the scope of the present invention, but not limited to treatments such as silicones, perfluorinated compounds, lecithin, and amino acids.

Representative examples of inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of rutile or anatase titanium dioxide, coded in the Color Index as CI 77, 891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, coded under CI references 77.499, 77.492 and 77.491; manganese violet (CI 77.742); overseas blue (CI 77.007); chromium oxide (CI 77.288); chromium hydrate (CI 77.289); and ferric blue (CI 77.510) and mixtures thereof.

Representative examples of organic pigments and lakes useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, D&C Red No. 19 (CI 45.170), D&C Red No. 9 (CI 15.585), D&C Red No. 21 (CI 45.380) , D&C Orange No. 4 (CI 15.510), D&C Orange No. 5 (CI 45.370), D&C Red No. 27 (CI 45.410), D&C Red No. 13 (CI 15.630), D&C Red No. 7 (CI 15.850) , D&C Red No. 6 (CI 15.850), D&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19.140), D&C Red No. 36 (CI 12.085), D&C Orange No. 10 (CI 45.425), D&C Yellow No. 6 (CI 15.985) , D&C Red No. 30 (CI 73.360), D&C Red No. 3 (CI 45.430) and cochineal carmine tints or lakes (CI 75.570) and mixtures thereof.

Representative examples of pearlescent pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of white pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide coated mica, titanium dioxide coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as those with bismuth oxychloride base and mixtures thereof.

The precise amount and type of colorant employed in the compositions of the present invention will depend on the color, intensity and use of the cosmetic composition and, therefore, will be determined by one skilled in the art. of the cosmetic formulation. However, a preferred amount of colorant for use in the present invention is about 0.5% to about 15%, about 1.5% to about 12%, and about 2% to about 10%, based on to the weight of the composition.

Basecoat compositions of the present invention may optionally additionally include at least one filler. Fillers which may be used in the compositions of the invention include, for example, silica powder; talc; polyamide particles and in particular those under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those based on ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as cross-linked or non-cross-linked corn starch, wheat starch or rice starch, such as cross-linked starch powders with octenyl succinate anhydride, sold as the name Dry-Flo by the National Starch Company; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; clays (hectorite, bentone, laponite, saponite, etc.); and their mixtures.

The fillers may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from approximately 0.1% to approximately 50% by weight, such as from 0.5% to approximately 30% by weight, and such as from approximately 1% to about 20% by weight, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

The basecoat compositions of the present invention may optionally further include at least one silica airgel. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are usually synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by supercritical fluid extraction, the most commonly used being supercritical CO ₂ . This type of drying avoids a shrinkage of the pores and the material. Silica aerogels, in general, have been disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 9,320,689.

As hydrophobic silica airgels which can be used in the invention, the examples which can be mentioned include the airgel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, of which the particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

In particular, the airgel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the Dow Corning company, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g, can be used.

The silica airgel particles can be used in the inventive compositions at a level of 0.1% to about 8% by weight, preferably 0.25% to 6% by weight, and preferably 0.5% to 4% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges included, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

According to preferred embodiments, the basecoat composition of the present invention may include at least one wax. Within the meaning of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic fatty compound (similar to those described above for "oil") except that it is solid at room temperature (25°C), has a change of reversible solid/liquid state (i.e. the state of matter can change due to temperature), has a melting point above 45°C, preferably above 55°C, so more preferably between about 65°C to about 120°C, and has an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC for Differential Scanning Calorimeter), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by Mettler. For waxes which are derived from petroleum, such as microcrystalline wax, the melting point can be measured by the ASTM drop method, D-127.

The waxes can generally be those used in cosmetics. The waxes can be of natural origin, for example beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites and hydrogenated oils, for example hydrogenated jojoba oil.

The waxes can also be of synthetic origin, for example polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and glycerides which are solid at 40° vs.

Specific waxes include, for example, polyethylene waxes, for example the product sold under the name Performalene 500-L Polyethylene (New Phase Technology), and polymethylene waxes, for example the product sold under the name Cirebelle 303 (Sasol ).

Specific waxes include, for example, silicone waxes such as polypropylsilsesquioxane wax substituted with alkyl units having at least 30 carbons. Polypropylsilsesquioxane waxes have generally been disclosed in patent publication WO2005/100444 and U.S. 8,586,013e. A particularly preferred polypropylsilsesquioxane wax for use in the present invention is a C30-45 ALKYLDIMETHYLSILYL POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE commercially available from DOW CORNING under the tradename SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax.

The basecoat compositions of the present invention may optionally further include at least one additional cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable additive such as a thickener, plasticizer, antioxidant, essential oil, botanical extract, fragrance, preservative , a perfume, a pasty fatty substance, a neutralizing agent, and a polymer, and cosmetically active agents and/or dermatologically active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids and drugs.

According to certain embodiments, the basecoat compositions of the present invention may include a volatile hydrocarbon oil in a weight concentration of from about 20%, 30%, or 40% to about 65%, 75%, or 85%; at least one silicone resin in a concentration by weight of from about 5%, 10%, or 15% to about 25%, 35%, or 45%; a colorant in a concentration by weight of from about 1%, 2% or 5% to about 5%, 10% or 20%; and optionally a filler in a concentration by weight of from about 2%, 3%, or 5% to about 6%, 10%, or 20%. In some of these embodiments, the base coat is substantially free of one or more of: silicone oils, water, waxes, and non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

Top coat composition

According to the present invention, topcoat compositions including at least one film-forming agent and a non-volatile oil carrier are provided. According to some embodiments, the topcoat composition consists essentially of at least one silicone resin and at least one non-volatile oil, such as a non-volatile silicone oil. Preferably, when the topcoat composition is applied to a long-lasting lip composition such as the basecoats described herein, the topcoat composition does not inhibit the transfer resistance of the long-lasting lip composition.

According to one embodiment, the topcoat consists essentially of the second silicone film-forming agent and one or more non-volatile silicone oils.

According to one embodiment, the topcoat comprises from about 15% by weight to about 25% by weight of the second silicone film-forming agent.

Useful silicone resins in the topcoat are those described above with reference to the basecoat. However, the basecoat and the topcoat do not need to include any or all of the same silicone resins. In some embodiments, the silicone resin is selected from the group consisting of siloxysilicate resins, silsesquioxane resins, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the silicone resin includes or consists of siloxysilicate resins such as trimethyl siloxysilicate.

The concentration by weight of the one or more silicone resins in the topcoat may be at least about 10%, such as at least more than 15%. In some embodiments, the concentration by weight of the one or more silicone resins ranges from about 15% or 20% to about 25% or 30% by weight.

Non-volatile medium

The non-volatile oil carrier includes, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more non-volatile oils. The terms "oil" and "non-volatile" are as described above. According to some embodiments, the non-volatile oil has a vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure which is non-zero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and more preferably less than 10 ^"3 mmHg (0.13Pa).

The non-volatile oil carrier can include relatively small concentrations of volatile oils, such as volatile silicone oils. In some embodiments, the concentration of volatile oils in the topcoat is lower than the concentration of non-volatile oils. For example, the non-volatile oil carrier may comprise up to 40%, such as up to 30%, such as up to 20%, such as up to 10%, such as up to 5%, such as up to 1% volatile oils, measured on the basis of concentration by weight of total oil in the non-volatile oil carrier.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the non-volatile oil is a high viscosity oil which is a silicone oil and/or a hydrocarbon oil. "High viscosity" means an oil having a viscosity greater than 100 cSt, in particular greater than 250 cSt at 25°C. Most particularly, the non-volatile oil is chosen from a silicone oil. Such oils are described, for example in documents US 2011/0293550 and US 2004/0126350.

In particular, the non-volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention preferably have a viscosity at 25° C. between 9 cSt and 800,000 cSt, preferably less than or equal to 600,000 cSt and preferably less than or equal to 500,000cSt. The viscosity of these silicone oils can be measured according to ASTM D-445.

According to some embodiments, the non-volatile silicone oil is a non-phenylated silicone oil. The term "non-phenylated silicone oil" or "non-phenylated silicone oil" means a silicone oil containing no phenyl substituents.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-phenylated linear silicone oil. Representative examples of such non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

Non-limiting examples of suitable non-volatile silicone oils include polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, including cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (CTFA designation “dimethicones”) comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; polydiethyl siloxanes; and dimethicone fluids having a viscosity of about 300 cPs at 25°C to about 1500 cPs at 25°C. Particularly useful dimethicone fluids have a viscosity of about 350 cPs at 25°C to about 1000 cPs at 25°C.

Specific examples suitable for this invention of high viscosity silicone oils include, but are not limited to, Xiameter® silicone fluids from Dow Corning.

The at least one nonvolatile silicone oil, if present, is preferably present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 2% to about 30% by weight, including from about 4% to about 25% by weight, typically about 6% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges included within these ranges.

The non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil is preferably chosen from dimethicone oils, preferably chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); alkyl dimethicones.

“Dimethicone” (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

The PDMSs can include alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 at Evonik Goldschmidt.

PDMS can include aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes such as cetyldimethicone sold under the trade reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or polyalkylmethylsiloxane optionally substituted by a fluorinated group, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes.

The non-phenylated linear silicone oil can be chosen in particular from the silicones of formula (I):

in which: the R groups are together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, n and p are integers chosen to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25°C is between 9 centistokes (cSt ) (9 x 10W/s) and 800,000 cSt.

According to a particular embodiment, the nonvolatile silicone oil includes, consists essentially of, or consists of polydimethylsiloxanes having a viscosity of from about 100 cSt to about 5,000 cSt.

According to other embodiments, the non-volatile silicone oil includes at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil.

The expression "phenyl silicone oil" or "phenyl silicone oil" means a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.

Such a phenyl silicone oil is preferably trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, or tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane. Such oils are notably manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane), or Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used. d) silicone phenyl oils corresponding to the following formula (TV):

in which Me represents a methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents -CH2-CH(CH ₃ )(Ph). e) phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below:

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents an -OSiMe ₃ group and y is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and z is between 1 and 1000. In particular, y and z are such that compound (V) is a non-volatile oil.

As preferred non-volatile silicone oils, examples which may be mentioned include phenyl trimethicones, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and their mixtures.

In some embodiments, the topcoat includes from about 15% by weight to about 30% by weight of the second silicone film-forming agent and from about 60% to about 85% by weight of one or more silicone oils. non-volatile.

Additional ingredients

According to some embodiments, the topcoat composition can include additional ingredients such as preservatives, natural extracts, colorants, waxes, polymers, vitamins, antioxidants, skin benefit agents, and the like. The concentration of these other ingredients can be, for example, less than about 20%, such as less than about 10%, such as less than about 5% by weight. According to certain embodiments, the topcoat composition includes from about 0.001%, 0.005% or 0.1% to about 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 5% or 10% of a cosmetic additive, such as an additive selected from the group consisting of vitamins, antioxidants, natural extracts, polymers, or colorants.

According to certain other embodiments, the topcoat composition is substantially free of one or more or even all of: non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile oils, waxes, colorants, C ₂ to C ₄ monoalcohols, glycols, and water. According to certain other embodiments, the topcoat composition is substantially free of diglyceryl polyacyladipate and/or non-volatile phenylated silicone oils. According to certain other embodiments, the topcoat composition is substantially free of colorants.

According to certain other embodiments, the topcoat composition for use on the lips consists essentially of about 15% by weight to about 30% by weight of at least one silicone film-forming agent; from about 65% to about 85% non-volatile silicone oil; and from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of one or more cosmetic additives, the at least one silicone film-forming agent and the one or more cosmetic additives being dispersed or dissolved in the non-volatile silicone oil. The topcoat may be substantially free of one or more of: colorants, hydrocarbon oils, water, waxes, and phenyl silicone oils, diglyceryl polyacyladipate, and/or volatile oils.

According to preferred embodiments, the base coat and the top coat are included in a cosmetic or "necessary" system. Accordingly, in some embodiments, the kit includes (1) a long-lasting lip composition including at least one silicone film-forming agent, colorant, and volatile hydrocarbon oil; and (2) a topcoat composition including at least a second silicone film forming agent in a non-volatile oil carrier.

According to preferred embodiments, methods for enhancing the appearance of the lips include applying a long-lasting lip composition including at least one silicone film-forming agent, a colorant, and a volatile hydrocarbon oil to the lips to form a base coat, and after a certain waiting period such as sufficient to dry the base coat or to allow a sufficient amount of volatile oil to evaporate; (2) the application of a composition (top coat) including at least a second silicone film-forming agent in a non-volatile oil carrier to form a top coat on the base coat, are proposed.

Preferably, when the topcoat composition is applied to the long-wear lip composition, the topcoat composition does not inhibit the transfer resistance of the long-wear lip composition.

The compositions and methods of the present invention may "comprise", "consist of", or "consist essentially of" the identified ingredients and process steps. In the sense of the compositions and methods of the present invention where the invention "consists essentially of" the identified ingredients and/or process steps, the only "basic and novel property" of such compositions and/or methods is resistance to transfer. Further, since it is contemplated that other transfer resistance enhancers or enhancers (e.g., additional film formers) may be added to the methods and compositions of the invention within the context of the present invention, a " material effect” on the basic and new property of the invention can only be a detrimental effect. That is, since positive effects on transfer resistance properties (such as those achieved by additional film formers) are within the scope of the present invention, only ingredients that have a material detrimental effect on transfer resistance properties would be determinative in determining whether or not compositions or processes “consist essentially of” the required elements.

Without wishing to make a theory of it, applicants believe that the inventive cosmetic system is surprisingly able to provide long-lasting wear and long-lasting high shine due to the selection of ingredients. The volatile hydrocarbon oil in the basecoat is believed to evaporate quickly allowing the basecoat film former to set (harden). The non-volatile silicone in the topcoat simultaneously plasticizes the silicone film formers in the basecoat and topcoat and builds a long-lasting gloss without breaking the basecoat below.

Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and appended claims are approximations which may vary depending on the desired properties which the present invention seeks to achieve.

Although the numerical ranges and parameters specifying the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without therefore limiting its scope. Percentages are given on a weight basis.

Examples

The present invention will be better understood using the examples which follow. The examples are intended to be non-restrictive and illustrative only, the scope of the invention being defined by the claims.

Example 1 – Compositions of the invention

The following tables show a basecoat and a topcoat that are consistent with embodiments of the present invention.

Ingredient (% by weight) base layer Topcoat Isododecane 50-60 Triethyl siloxysilicate 15-25 15-25 Dimethicone, 1000 cSt --- 75-85 Nylon-611/Dimethicone Polymer 5-15 Dyes 3-8 Expenses 6-10 Additional ingredients 0-5 0-0.1

Example 2 – Example of a process for preparing the ( of the composition(s) of the invention

The basecoat composition is prepared by conventional techniques, for example, by: loading the tank with an additional filler at room temperature and homogenizing, adding pigments (dyes), homogenizing, adding a copolymer such as the polymer Nylon- 611/Dimethicone, homogenization and application of vacuum, addition of silicone resin and isododecane at elevated temperature such as 80°C, homogenization, addition of additional fillers, homogenization, and allowing to cool.

The topcoat composition is prepared by charging a tank with dimethicone, adding vitamin E (additional ingredient) under vortex shear; slowly adding triethyl siloxysilicate, increasing the mixing speed and allowing to mix while maintaining the temperature below 35°C until the triethyl siloxysilicate is well dispersed.

Example 3 – E test of port

A basecoat and topcoat consistent with Example 1 were tested as a cosmetic system. One hundred and thirty-four women applied the base coat and top coat in a manner consistent with the invention described herein.

After wearing the cosmetic system, the women were asked if the product lasted sixteen hours (yes or no). One hundred and seven (80%) of the women answered yes. This is surprisingly high, especially for a glossy product.

Claims (9)

Cosmetic system comprising:
a lip base coat composition comprising at least a first silicone film forming agent, a colorant, and a volatile hydrocarbon oil; And
a topcoat composition comprising at least about 10% by weight of at least a second silicone film forming agent in a non-volatile oil carrier, wherein the non-volatile oil carrier comprises polydimethylsiloxane. The cosmetic system of claim 1, wherein the basecoat is a liquid lipstick comprising from about 20% to about 85% of the volatile hydrocarbon oil, from about 5% to about 45% of the first film-forming agent of silicone, from about 1% to about 20% of the colorant, and wherein the basecoat is substantially free of waxes, water, and non-volatile oils. A cosmetic system according to any preceding claim, wherein the topcoat consists essentially of the second silicone film-forming agent and one or more non-volatile silicone oils. A cosmetic system according to any preceding claim, wherein the topcoat comprises from about 15% by weight to about 30% by weight of the second silicone film-forming agent. A cosmetic system according to any preceding claim, wherein the topcoat comprises from about 15% by weight to about 25% by weight of the second silicone film-forming agent. A cosmetic system according to any preceding claim, wherein the topcoat comprises from about 15% by weight to about 30% by weight of the second silicone film-forming agent and from about 65% to about 85% by weight of one or more non-volatile silicone oils. A cosmetic system according to any preceding claim, wherein the second silicone film-forming agent comprises trimethyl siloxysilicate. A cosmetic system according to any preceding claim, wherein the topcoat comprises one or more non-volatile oils and optionally includes one or more volatile oils, and wherein the concentration of the one or more optional volatile oils in the topcoat is lower than the concentration of one or more non-volatile oils in the topcoat. A cosmetic system according to any preceding claim, wherein the topcoat is substantially free of colorants.