WO2020128392A1 - Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a polysilsesquioxane film-forming resin - Google Patents

Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a polysilsesquioxane film-forming resin Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020128392A1
WO2020128392A1 PCT/FR2019/053242 FR2019053242W WO2020128392A1 WO 2020128392 A1 WO2020128392 A1 WO 2020128392A1 FR 2019053242 W FR2019053242 W FR 2019053242W WO 2020128392 A1 WO2020128392 A1 WO 2020128392A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
composition according
wax
eyebrows
oil
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PCT/FR2019/053242
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French (fr)
Inventor
Yohann Bichon
Caroline KOUSSOUROS
Original Assignee
Lvmh Recherche
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Publication of WO2020128392A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020128392A1/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane
  • the present invention relates to a new anhydrous cosmetic composition, and to its use in the field of care and / or makeup.
  • the invention relates more particularly to a new cosmetic composition comprising a film-forming polysilsesquioxane resin, in combination with a natural or synthetic clay, a mattifying filler chosen from natural and / or synthetic micas, and a volatile oil.
  • the invention also relates to compositions and methods for making up and / or caring for keratin materials and / or the skin, and more particularly the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows, comprising an application step on keratin materials and / or on the skin of a cosmetic composition according to the invention to form a film.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention to form a film.
  • Products for eyebrows, mascaras, foundations and lipsticks, comprising a composition according to the invention are also objects of the invention.
  • a makeup kit comprising such a composition also forms part of the invention.
  • the cosmetic compositions for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or keratin materials such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows must meet complex specifications comprising a multitude of criteria.
  • An object of the invention is to maintain the hold (adhesion) of the makeup and / or care products over a long period, that is to say for at least 24 hours, advantageously 36 hours, while retaining their flexibility and comfort of application.
  • One of the objectives of the present invention therefore consists in proposing a new anhydrous cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for the skin, lips and / or keratin materials which, when applied, forms a film which combines long-lasting properties, in particular more than 24 hours, and comfort of application.
  • the Inventors have unexpectedly shown that it is quite possible to reduce the amount of waxes to a maximum of 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and even more advantageously to exclude the waxes from the cosmetic composition of the invention, and thus to limit the drawbacks known to those skilled in the art, which are in particular feelings of heaviness and discomfort at the time and after the application of cosmetic composition. It is thus possible to obtain cosmetic compositions with a low content, and better still devoid of waxes, whose holding properties and comfort of application are particularly remarkable.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic composition of the invention produces a so-called “mat” makeup effect, this mat being particularly advantageous for application to keratinitic fibers, in particular the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows.
  • the present invention provides consumers with a makeup product to draw the eye by simultaneously coloring the eyebrows and the skin under the eyebrows, the eyebrows thus having a matte and natural coloring, with flawless hold.
  • the subject of the invention is an anhydrous cosmetic composition
  • a- at least one natural or synthetic clay comprising: a- at least one natural or synthetic clay,
  • composition also comprising: d- from 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of a film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane.
  • anhydrous means that the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 10%, and preferably less than 5%, by weight of water relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is advantageously free of water.
  • film-forming resin is meant a resin capable of forming a continuous film and adhering to a support, said support being able to consist of fibers whose shape and dimensions are those of keratin fibers and / or that can be the skin .
  • An “oil”, within the meaning of the present invention, relates to a compound that is not soluble in water (solubility less than 0.05 mg.L 1 at 20 ° C), and liquid at room temperature (25 ° C ) whose melting point, softening temperature or glass transition point at atmospheric pressure is less than or equal to 30 ° C, preferably less than or equal to 25 ° C.
  • the volatility may be defined in the context of the invention for example by a vapor pressure measurable by an empirical method at 25 ° C, and whose value will be between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa, for example between 1 Pa and 20,000 Pa, between 10 Pa and 8,000 Pa, or even between 15 and 150 Pa.
  • the vapor pressure will be measured according to one of the methods best suited for the compound of interest, these methods appearing in the guidelines of OECD Test No. 104 (2006 version).
  • Volatile oil could also be defined as a compound having a flash point ranging from 35 to 100 ° C, in particular between 40 ° C and 80 ° C.
  • Isododecane which is considered in the present application as a volatile oil, has a boiling temperature at atmospheric pressure between 175 and 195 ° C, a flash point of 45 ° C and a vapor pressure of 20 ° C equal to 100 Pa. Its solubility in water at 20 ° C is less than or equal to l.OxlO 2 mg.L 1 .
  • the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- represents from 22 to 38%, more advantageously from 25 to 35%, and even more advantageously from 28 to 32%, in weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the natural or synthetic clay a- can represent from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10%, and even more preferably from 2 to 8%, by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the mattifying filler b- chosen from natural and / or synthetic micas represents from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 20%, and even more preferably from 2 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the volatile oil c- represents from 1 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 30%, and even more preferably from 3 to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to a variant of the invention, the volatile oil represents the balance at 100% by weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention comprising the constituents a- to d-.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises, in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition: a- from 1 to 15% by weight of a natural or synthetic clay, b- from 0.5 to 30% by weight of a mattifying filler chosen from natural and / or synthetic micas, c- from 1 to 50% by weight of a volatile oil, and d- from 20 to 40% by weight of a film-forming polysilsesquioxane resin.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention has the advantage, once applied to the skin, the lips or the keratin fibers, of forming a high-strength film producing a matte effect while surprising fact and a remarkable feeling of comfort.
  • keratin materials refers to human keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the hair, and artificial keratin fibers such as the false eyelashes.
  • a makeup composition intended to be applied to these keratin fibers is also called “mascara”.
  • the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- is a resin of formula (R-Si0 3/2) x, wherein R represents a C1-C20 / group C1-C20 alkenyl, a C3-C12 cycloalkyl group, a C1-C12 aryl group, or a C1-C20 aralkyl group, and
  • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 500.
  • Alkyl a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group, in Cr C 2 o, preferably in Ci-Ci2, more preferably in C I -C ⁇ , and even more preferably in C1-C4.
  • branched means that at least one lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl is carried by a linear alkyl chain. Mention may be made, as alkyl group, of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl and n-pentyl groups.
  • Alkenyl an unsaturated hydrocarbon aliphatic group comprising a covalent double bond between two carbon atoms, linear or branched, of C2-C20, preferably C 2 -Ci2, more preferably C 2 -C 6 , and even more preferably in C2-C4.
  • branched means that at least one lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl is carried by an alkenyl chain linear. Mention may be made, as alkenyl group, of the ethylene, propylene, n-butylene, t-butylene and n-pentylene groups.
  • Cycloalkyl any functional group or substituent derived from a non-aromatic ring containing at least 3 carbon atoms, and preferably C 3 -C 12, optionally comprising, optionally, one or more heteroatoms chosen from P, S, O and N.
  • groups mention may in particular be made of cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl; the cyclohexyl group being preferred.
  • Aryl any functional group or substituent derived from at least one aromatic ring; an aromatic cycle corresponds to any planar mono- or polycyclic group comprising a delocalized p system in which each atom of the cycle comprises an orbital p, said orbitals p overlapping one another; among such aryl groups, mention may be made of phenyl, biphenyl, naphthalene and anthracene groups.
  • the aryl groups of the invention preferably comprise from 4 to 12 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 5 to 6 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, the aryl group of the invention is a phenyl group.
  • Aralkyl any group derived from an alkyl group as defined above in which a hydrogen atom is replaced by an aryl group.
  • the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- is a polyalkylsilsesquioxane or polyarylsilsesquioxane resin chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polyphenylsilsesquioxane resins, and mixtures thereof.
  • the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- is lipodispersible and non-absorbent from the fatty phase.
  • the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- advantageously has a softening point between 75 and 90 ° C.
  • its flash point can vary between 230 and 240 ° C, and preferably between 235 and 240 ° C.
  • Another characteristic of the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- is its density which is preferably less than 1.3, more preferably between 1.20 and 1.28, and even more preferably between 1.22 and 1.26.
  • the film-forming polysilsesquioxane d- resin of the invention differs from polysilsesquioxane powders conventionally used in cosmetics in that it has a glass transition temperature of between 75 and 90 ° C. It also has a particle size of between 200 and 300 ⁇ m.
  • the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- is polymethylsilsesquioxane, for example that sold under the name SilForm * Flexible Resin S from Momentive Performance Materials.
  • the film-forming polysilsesquioxane d- resin of the invention differs from polysilsesquioxane powders in that it consists of a cross-linked three-dimensional polysilsesquioxane network.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention also comprises at least one natural or synthetic clay a-, preferably chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolite, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
  • a- preferably chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolite, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
  • it is chosen from hectorites.
  • hectorites modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride are used, said ammonium being substituted with at least one, and preferably at least two C 1 -C 20 alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention also comprises at least one mattifying filler b- chosen from natural and / or synthetic micas, preferably consisting of a solid filler in pulverulent or powder form, such as that sold under the name SUBMICA® M by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.
  • the term "filler” should be understood to mean a mass of particles of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which is in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
  • the so-called "mattifying" filler makes it possible to obtain a matt effect once the film has been formed after application. This matte effect is particularly important when trying to avoid a shiny makeup look. This is in particular the case when the composition is applied to the eyelashes or the eyebrows.
  • This mattifying filler by the effect it produces, also makes it possible, when the composition is applied to the skin, to attenuate the imperfections of the skin such as wrinkles or fine lines appearing gradually with age.
  • the mattifying filler b- may be at least partially made up of particles treated on the surface with a hydrophilic or lipophilic organic agent to facilitate their incorporation into the composition, in particular for dispersing the particles homogeneously in the composition.
  • the mattifying filler b- consists of non-spherical or spherical particles, with regular or irregular contours, or even hemi-spherical or platelet-shaped, having a median size by volume, denoted D 5 o, less than or equal to 25 pm, in particular less than or equal to 15 pm, in particular less than or equal to 10 pm.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention also comprises at least one volatile oil c-, which can be a hydrocarbon-based, silicone oil, or a mixture of the two. It can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the volatile oil c- is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (750 mm Hg, or 105 Pa).
  • the presence of at least one volatile oil c- in the cosmetic composition of the invention is essential in that it allows its rapid evaporation when the composition is applied to a support such as the skin or materials keratin, the progressive formation of a film in situ. This film then produces the desired visual or care effect, which has a supple texture and provides remarkable comfort and lasting more than 24 hours.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • sicone oil is meant a compound comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
  • the oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • Mention may in particular be made, among volatile hydrocarbon oils, of branched alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, branched esters having 8 to 16 carbon atoms such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • a volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises or consists of isododecane.
  • Mention may also be made of linear alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils mention may be made of linear silicone oils such as rhexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiioxane.
  • volatile cyclic silicone oils mention may be made of cyclopentasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
  • the volatile oil d- is chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane, cyclopentasiloxane, and their mixtures.
  • the volatile oil c- comprises or consists of isododecane.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention may comprise one or more additional components or adjuvants which make it possible to improve the composition on criteria such as chemical or microbiological stability, the visual or olfactory appearance, the rheological behavior or even confer to this composition cosmetic activity, for example hydration and / or anti-aging, without altering the essential properties on the basis of the invention such as the hold, the mattness or the comfort of the film formed by said composition after application.
  • a silicone polymer can also be present in the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • polymer can denote a homopolymer or a copolymer.
  • copolymer is meant a polymer comprising at least two different monomers or two blocks, which may be of the same chemical family but of different structure.
  • the silicone polymer of the invention has at least one siloxane function. It is preferably in liquid form at room temperature (25 ° C).
  • the silicone polymer of the invention is advantageously chosen from ethyl methicone, caprylyl methicone, phenyltrimethicone, or their mixtures. Particularly advantageously, it is caprylyl methicone such as that sold by DOW CORNING under the reference FZ-3196.
  • the silicone polymer represents from 0.1% to 10%, and even more particularly from 0.5 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the silicone polymer of the invention is non-volatile.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise a coloring matter in particular chosen from pigments and nacres.
  • the pigments may be in the form of powder and, according to one variant, have an average diameter not exceeding 200 ⁇ m, and according to another variant, not exceeding 150 ⁇ m.
  • pigments should be understood white or colored, mineral or organic particles, coated or not, insoluble in an aqueous phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition containing them.
  • pigments which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention is made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, carbon black, and their mixtures. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may, for example, be of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. It may also be pigments having a structure which can be, for example, of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.
  • the pigments of the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.
  • the pigment particles can be treated at the surface by the deposition of an agent on the surface of the coloring matter by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction, or creation of covalent bonds between the surfactant and the treated particle.
  • the agent is a silicone or an amino acid.
  • the pigment can be coated with a layer of silicone, in particular with a layer of methicone, of dimethicone (also called polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)), of hydrogenated dimethicone, of a dimethicone-methicone copolymer, of an acrylate-dimethicone copolymer, and even more particularly with a layer of dimethicone.
  • the pigment is chosen from iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides, coated in a layer of dimethicone.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention also comprises a coloring material chosen from pigments and / or nacres, which can represent from 1 to 20% by weight, and according to a variant from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a coloring material chosen from pigments and / or nacres, which can represent from 1 to 20% by weight, and according to a variant from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises from 0 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0 to 1% by weight, of a wax.
  • the composition is free of wax.
  • the wax can for example be chosen from: so-called “apolar” waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes, so-called “polar” waxes, such as for example beeswax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricurry wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, Sumac wax, Montan wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, orange wax, lemon wax, bay laurel, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils with fatty chains, linear or branched, C8-C32, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, lanolin oil, olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, l castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, and their mixture (s).
  • apolar waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, silicone waxe
  • composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.
  • cosmetics such as antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention can be in all the cosmetic forms conventionally used for applications on keratin fibers, the skin, such as solid, liquid, or even liquid forms under pressure. It can in particular be formulated in the form of a cream, a gel, an anhydrous product.
  • the composition of the invention can be prepared according to conventional methods for the compositions comprising a volatile oil.
  • the composition according to the invention is more particularly an eyebrow product intended for making up keratin fibers and / or the skin, in particular the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows.
  • the process for the preparation of said composition may optionally include a grinding step in order to obtain a powder formed of fine solid particles. This grinding step can be carried out in a three-cylinder mill such as an EXAKT 50i mill from the company EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is formulated in the form of an anhydrous eyebrow product comprising the constituents a-, b-, c- and d- mentioned above.
  • the invention also relates to a process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials and / or the skin, comprising a step of application to keratin materials and / or the skin, in particular the eyebrows and / or the skin. under the eyebrows, a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • Another object of the invention is a film consisting of a cosmetic composition according to the invention having in particular a thickness ranging from 150 to 800 pm.
  • the film formed on the support is essentially free of volatile oil c-.
  • An additional object of the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, the skin and / or the lips, and particularly for making up eyebrows and / or skin under the eyebrows.
  • the invention relates to eyebrow products, mascaras, foundations and lipsticks, and more particularly eyebrow products.
  • the present invention also covers products for eyebrows, mascaras, foundations, and lipsticks, comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • These makeup products combine hold, comfort and flexibility, for at least 24 hours.
  • an eyebrow product according to the invention has a hold of at least 24 hours, or even up to 36 hours, and withstands a day, a night and a shower.
  • Another object of the invention is a process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials and / or the skin, comprising a step of application to keratin materials and / or the skin, in particular the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows, of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • the invention relates to a method for coloring the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows comprising a step applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention to the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows.
  • a final object of the invention relates to a makeup kit comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention, packaged in a reservoir, as well as means for removing and applying said composition to the keratin fibers, the skin and / or the lips, and more particularly on the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows.
  • the tank can be a bottle, a cup or a pot.
  • the sampling and application means may include a brush, a paintbrush, a sponge or a cellular foam.
  • the invention also comprises other embodiments or variants which will emerge from the additional description which follows, which relates to the preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention given in by way of illustration and which in no way limit the scope of the invention, as well as of cosmetic compositions representative of the prior art given for comparison.
  • the examples of the invention form an integral part of the invention.
  • composition 1 A cosmetic composition according to the invention (composition 1), two comparative cosmetic compositions (compositions 2 and 3), and a composition representative of the state of the art (composition 4), were prepared as described below. after.
  • Composition 4 representative of the state of the art is a composition according to application WO2018 / 096262.
  • Bentone Gel® ISD V (Elementis Specialties) consists of:
  • the SilForm * Flexible Resin S resin was firstly dispersed in isododecane using an ULTRA TURRAX agitator, at room temperature. Bentone Gel® ISD V was then added, then the mixture of treated iron oxide and caprylyl methicone Dow Corning® FZ-3196, previously ground, and finally the mica or titanium dioxide.
  • the composition obtained is an eyebrow product.
  • This eyebrow product is applied to the eyebrows and the skin under the eyebrows using an applicator. adapted.
  • the evaporation of the isododecane allows the formation of a film on the keratin fibers.
  • the composition film 1 (invention) has a flexible texture producing a feeling of comfort.
  • the makeup look is a matte effect.
  • the eyebrow product can be stored for more than 24 hours, and can withstand a passage in the shower. It also has coloring properties superior to those of the comparative products because it simultaneously colors the eyebrows and the skin under the eyebrows.
  • composition film 2 (comparative) has a flexible texture producing a feeling of comfort.
  • compositions 3 (comparative) and 4 (prior art) are heterogeneous and completely unstable at T0 (total sedimentation of the pigments).
  • the films obtained cannot be used, and could not have been subjected to wettability and resistance tests as described below.
  • Wettability test Method for measuring the contact angle Device: drop shape analyzer KRUSS DSA100
  • Composition 2 (comparative) has very poor sebum wettability.
  • Composition 1 (invention) has good wettability with both water and sebum, and represents the best compromise.
  • composition 1 of the invention has insufficient overall resistance, with in particular poor resistance to distilled water at 40 ° C. and poor resistance to artificial sebum.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a novel anhydrous cosmetic composition and to its use in the field of care or make-up. The invention relates more particularly to a novel cosmetic composition comprising a polysilsesquioxane film-forming resin, in combination with a natural or synthetic clay, a matifying filler selected from natural and/or synthetic micas, and a volatile oil.

Description

Composition cosmétique anhydre comprenant une résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane
Domaine Technique Technical area
[0001] La présente invention a trait à une nouvelle composition cosmétique anhydre, et à son utilisation dans le domaine du soin et / ou du maquillage. L'invention concerne plus particulièrement une nouvelle composition cosmétique comprenant une résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane, en combinaison avec une argile naturelle ou synthétique, une charge matifiante choisie parmi les micas naturels et / ou synthétiques, et une huile volatile. The present invention relates to a new anhydrous cosmetic composition, and to its use in the field of care and / or makeup. The invention relates more particularly to a new cosmetic composition comprising a film-forming polysilsesquioxane resin, in combination with a natural or synthetic clay, a mattifying filler chosen from natural and / or synthetic micas, and a volatile oil.
[0002] L'invention vise aussi des compositions et procédés de maquillage et / ou de soin des matières kératiniques et / ou de la peau, et plus particulièrement des sourcils et / ou de la peau sous les sourcils, comprenant une étape d'application sur les matières kératiniques et / ou sur la peau d'une composition cosmétique selon l'invention pour former un film. Des produits pour sourcils, mascaras, fonds de teint et rouges à lèvres, comprenant une composition selon l'invention, sont également des objets de l'invention. Enfin, un kit de maquillage comprenant une telle composition fait aussi partie de l'invention. The invention also relates to compositions and methods for making up and / or caring for keratin materials and / or the skin, and more particularly the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows, comprising an application step on keratin materials and / or on the skin of a cosmetic composition according to the invention to form a film. Products for eyebrows, mascaras, foundations and lipsticks, comprising a composition according to the invention, are also objects of the invention. Finally, a makeup kit comprising such a composition also forms part of the invention.
Technique antérieure Prior art
[0003] Les compositions cosmétiques pour le maquillage et / ou le soin de la peau et / ou des matières kératiniques telles que les cils ou les sourcils, doivent répondre à un cahier des charges complexe comprenant une multitude de critères. On peut citer par exemple la stabilité et la tenue du produit au cours du temps, le confort lors de son application et au cours du temps une fois appliqué. Ces critères sont difficiles à satisfaire simultanément : par exemple, augmenter la tenue d'un produit de maquillage conduit très fréquemment à une diminution du confort ressenti par les consommatrices, liée à un dessèchement, des sensations de collant, ou une lourdeur du dépôt sur les matières kératiniques, la peau ou les lèvres. On peut par exemple utiliser des cires pour épaissir le film et donner une texture plus visqueuse à la composition lors de son application. L'inconvénient des cires est qu'elles rendent le film plus rigide et collant ce qui produit une sensation d'inconfort à l'application, et tout au long de la journée. The cosmetic compositions for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or keratin materials such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows must meet complex specifications comprising a multitude of criteria. We can cite for example the stability and the resistance of the product over time, the comfort during its application and over time once applied. These criteria are difficult to satisfy simultaneously: for example, increasing the hold of a make-up product very often leads to a reduction in the comfort felt by consumers, linked to drying, sticky sensations, or a heaviness of the deposit on the keratin materials, skin or lips. We can for example use waxes to thicken the film and give a more viscous texture to the composition during its application. The disadvantage of waxes is that they make the film more rigid and sticky, which produces a feeling of discomfort on application, and throughout the day.
[0004] Un but de l'invention est de maintenir la tenue (adhésion) des produits de maquillage et / ou de soin sur une longue durée, c'est-à-dire pendant au moins 24 heures, avantageusement 36 heures, tout en conservant leur souplesse et leur confort d'application. An object of the invention is to maintain the hold (adhesion) of the makeup and / or care products over a long period, that is to say for at least 24 hours, advantageously 36 hours, while retaining their flexibility and comfort of application.
[0005] Le Demandeur a décrit dans la demande WO2018/096262, déposée le 22 novembre 2017, l'association d'une résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane avec un trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, et un copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et / ou acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane, pour obtenir des compositions de mascaras présentant une tenue, ou adhésion, nettement améliorée dans le temps. Le Demandeur a aujourd'hui observé qu'en modifiant la proportion de résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane et la nature des autres constituants, notamment des charges, il était possible d'améliorer encore la tenue et la mouillabilité des compositions de soin et de maquillage de l'art antérieur. Les compositions obtenues se sont ainsi avérées particulièrement adaptées pour colorer simultanément les sourcils et la peau sous les sourcils. The Applicant described in application WO2018 / 096262, filed on November 22, 2017, the association of a film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane with a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, and an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, to obtain mascaras compositions having a hold, or adhesion, significantly improved over time. The Applicant has now observed that by modifying the proportion of film-forming polysilsesquioxane resin and the nature of the other constituents, in particular fillers, it was possible to further improve the strength and wettability of the care and make-up compositions of the prior art. The compositions obtained have thus been found to be particularly suitable for simultaneously coloring the eyebrows and the skin under the eyebrows.
[0006] Un des objectifs de la présente invention consiste donc à proposer une nouvelle composition cosmétique anhydre pour le maquillage et / ou le soin de la peau, des lèvres et / ou des matières kératiniques formant lors de son application un film alliant longue tenue, en particulier supérieure à 24 heures, et confort d'application. C'est de façon inattendue que les Inventeurs ont découvert que la combinaison d'une proportion spécifique de résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane, avec une argile naturelle ou synthétique, une charge matifiante choisie parmi les micas naturels et / ou synthétiques, et une huile volatile, produit un effet de synergie permettant d'obtenir des compositions cosmétiques qui laissent sur la peau, les lèvres ou les matières kératiniques un film dont la texture souple et légère produit une sensation de douceur sans effet cartonné, non grasse et non collante, tout en présentant une adhésion (tenue) significativement améliorée, et donc une résistance à l'eau, au sébum, à la transpiration et aux frottements supérieure à celle des compositions de l'art antérieur, et notamment des compositions de la demande WO2018/096262. Grâce à cette combinaison d'ingrédients, les Inventeurs ont montré de façon inattendue qu'il est tout à fait possible de réduire la quantité de cires à un maximum de 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique, et encore plus avantageusement d'exclure les cires de la composition cosmétique de l'invention, et ainsi d'en limiter les inconvénients connus de l'homme du métier, qui sont notamment des sensations de lourdeur et d'inconfort au moment et après l'application de la composition cosmétique. Il est ainsi possible d'obtenir des compositions cosmétiques à faible teneur, et mieux encore dépourvues de cires, dont les propriétés de tenue et de confort d'application sont particulièrement remarquables. One of the objectives of the present invention therefore consists in proposing a new anhydrous cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for the skin, lips and / or keratin materials which, when applied, forms a film which combines long-lasting properties, in particular more than 24 hours, and comfort of application. It is unexpectedly that the inventors discovered that the combination of a specific proportion of film-forming polysilsesquioxane resin, with a natural or synthetic clay, a mattifying filler chosen from natural and / or synthetic micas, and a volatile oil, produces a synergistic effect making it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions which leave on the skin, the lips or the keratin materials a film whose flexible and light texture produces a feeling of softness without cardboard effect, non-greasy and non-sticky, while presenting a significantly improved adhesion (resistance) and therefore resistance to water, sebum, perspiration and friction higher than that of the compositions of the prior art, and in particular of the compositions of application WO2018 / 096262. Thanks to this combination of ingredients, the Inventors have unexpectedly shown that it is quite possible to reduce the amount of waxes to a maximum of 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and even more advantageously to exclude the waxes from the cosmetic composition of the invention, and thus to limit the drawbacks known to those skilled in the art, which are in particular feelings of heaviness and discomfort at the time and after the application of cosmetic composition. It is thus possible to obtain cosmetic compositions with a low content, and better still devoid of waxes, whose holding properties and comfort of application are particularly remarkable.
[0007]0utre ces propriétés améliorées, la composition cosmétique anhydre de l'invention produit un effet de maquillage dit « mat », cette matité étant particulièrement intéressante pour une application sur les fibres kératinitiques, en particulier les sourcils et / ou la peau sous les sourcils. En particulier, la présente invention propose aux consommatrices un produit de maquillage pour dessiner le regard en colorant simultanément les sourcils et la peau sous les sourcils, les sourcils présentant ainsi une coloration mate et naturelle, à la tenue irréprochable. In addition to these improved properties, the anhydrous cosmetic composition of the invention produces a so-called “mat” makeup effect, this mat being particularly advantageous for application to keratinitic fibers, in particular the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows. In particular, the present invention provides consumers with a makeup product to draw the eye by simultaneously coloring the eyebrows and the skin under the eyebrows, the eyebrows thus having a matte and natural coloring, with flawless hold.
Exposé de l'invention Statement of the invention
[0008]Ainsi, selon un premier aspect, l'invention a pour objet une composition cosmétique anhydre comprenant : a- au moins une argile naturelle ou synthétique, [0008] Thus, according to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising: a- at least one natural or synthetic clay,
b- au moins une charge matifiante choisie parmi les micas naturels et / ou synthétiques, b- at least one mattifying filler chosen from natural and / or synthetic micas,
c- au moins une huile volatile, c- at least one volatile oil,
ladite composition comprenant également : d- de 20 à 40% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique, d'une résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane. said composition also comprising: d- from 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of a film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane.
[0009]Au sens de l'invention, le terme « anhydre » signifie que la composition cosmétique de l'invention comprend moins de 10%, et de préférence moins de 5%, en poids d'eau par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique. La composition cosmétique de l'invention est avantageusement exempte d'eau. Within the meaning of the invention, the term “anhydrous” means that the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 10%, and preferably less than 5%, by weight of water relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition of the invention is advantageously free of water.
[0010]0n entend par « résine filmogène », une résine apte à former un film continu et adhérant sur un support, ledit support pouvant être constitué de fibres dont la forme et les dimensions sont celles de fibres kératiniques et / ou pouvant être la peau. By "film-forming resin" is meant a resin capable of forming a continuous film and adhering to a support, said support being able to consist of fibers whose shape and dimensions are those of keratin fibers and / or that can be the skin .
[0011]Dans la présente demande les expressions « de ... à ... » et « entre ... et ... » visent à comprendre les bornes inférieure et supérieure de la plage de valeurs. La divulgation d'une plage de valeurs excluant ses bornes vaut divulgation de la plage de valeurs équivalente incluant les bornes, et vice versa. In the present application, the expressions "from ... to ..." and "between ... and ..." aim to understand the lower and upper limits of the range of values. Disclosure of a range of values excluding its bounds means disclosure of the equivalent range of values including its bounds, and vice versa.
[0012] Une « huile », au sens de la présente invention, vise un composé non soluble dans l'eau (solubilité inférieure à 0,05 mg.L 1 à 20°C), et liquide à température ambiante (25°C) dont le point de fusion, la température de ramollissement ou le point de transition vitreuse à pression atmosphérique est inférieur ou égal à 30°C, de préférence inférieur ou égal à 25°C. An “oil”, within the meaning of the present invention, relates to a compound that is not soluble in water (solubility less than 0.05 mg.L 1 at 20 ° C), and liquid at room temperature (25 ° C ) whose melting point, softening temperature or glass transition point at atmospheric pressure is less than or equal to 30 ° C, preferably less than or equal to 25 ° C.
[0013] La volatilité pourra être définie dans le cadre de l'invention par exemple par une pression de vapeur mesurable par une méthode empirique à 25°C, et dont la valeur sera comprise entre 0,13 Pa et 40 000 Pa, par exemple entre 1 Pa et 20 000 Pa, entre 10 Pa et 8 000 Pa, voire entre 15 et 150 Pa. La pression de vapeur sera mesurée selon une des méthodes les mieux adaptée pour le composé d'intérêt, ces méthodes figurant dans les lignes directrices du Test n° 104 de l'OCDE (version 2006). On peut alternativement choisir une huile volatile présentant une température d'ébullition à pression atmosphérique inférieure à 250°C, selon une variante inférieure à 230°C, et selon une autre variante comprise entre 150 et 220°C. L'huile volatile pourra encore être définie comme un composé ayant un point éclair allant de 35 à 100°C, en particulier entre 40°C et 80°C. The volatility may be defined in the context of the invention for example by a vapor pressure measurable by an empirical method at 25 ° C, and whose value will be between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa, for example between 1 Pa and 20,000 Pa, between 10 Pa and 8,000 Pa, or even between 15 and 150 Pa. The vapor pressure will be measured according to one of the methods best suited for the compound of interest, these methods appearing in the guidelines of OECD Test No. 104 (2006 version). One can alternatively choose a volatile oil having a boiling temperature at atmospheric pressure of less than 250 ° C, according to a variant less than 230 ° C, and according to another variant between 150 and 220 ° C. Volatile oil could also be defined as a compound having a flash point ranging from 35 to 100 ° C, in particular between 40 ° C and 80 ° C.
[0014]L'isododécane, qui est considéré dans la présente demande comme une huile volatile, a une température d'ébullition à pression atmosphérique comprise entre 175 et 195°C, un point éclair de 45°C et une pression de vapeur à 20°C égale à 100 Pa. Sa solubilité dans l'eau à 20°C est inférieure ou égale à l.OxlO 2 mg.L 1. Isododecane, which is considered in the present application as a volatile oil, has a boiling temperature at atmospheric pressure between 175 and 195 ° C, a flash point of 45 ° C and a vapor pressure of 20 ° C equal to 100 Pa. Its solubility in water at 20 ° C is less than or equal to l.OxlO 2 mg.L 1 .
[0015]Selon un mode de réalisation avantageux de l'invention, la résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane d- représente de 22 à 38%, de manière plus avantageuse de 25 à 35%, et de manière encore plus avantageuse de 28 à 32%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- represents from 22 to 38%, more advantageously from 25 to 35%, and even more advantageously from 28 to 32%, in weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0016] Dans un mode de réalisation avantageux de l'invention, l'argile naturelle ou synthétique a- peut représenter de 0,5 à 15%, de préférence de 1 à 10%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 2 à 8%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique. In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the natural or synthetic clay a- can represent from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10%, and even more preferably from 2 to 8%, by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0017]Dans un mode de réalisation avantageux de l'invention, la charge matifiante b- choisie parmi les micas naturels et / ou synthétiques représente de 0,5 à 30%, de préférence de 1 à 20%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 2 à 15%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique. In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the mattifying filler b- chosen from natural and / or synthetic micas represents from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 20%, and even more preferably from 2 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0018]Dans un mode de réalisation avantageux de l'invention, l'huile volatile c- représente de 1 à 50%, de préférence de 2 à 30%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 3 à 20%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique. Selon une variante de l'invention, l'huile volatile représente le solde à 100% en poids de la composition cosmétique de l'invention comprenant les constituants a- à d-. In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil c- represents from 1 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 30%, and even more preferably from 3 to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to a variant of the invention, the volatile oil represents the balance at 100% by weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention comprising the constituents a- to d-.
[0019]Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l’invention, la composition cosmétique comprend, en pourcentage en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique : a- de 1 à 15% en poids d'une argile naturelle ou synthétique, b- de 0,5 à 30% en poids d'une charge matifiante choisie parmi les micas naturels et / ou synthétiques, c- de 1 à 50% en poids d'une huile volatile, et d- de 20 à 40% en poids d'une résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises, in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition: a- from 1 to 15% by weight of a natural or synthetic clay, b- from 0.5 to 30% by weight of a mattifying filler chosen from natural and / or synthetic micas, c- from 1 to 50% by weight of a volatile oil, and d- from 20 to 40% by weight of a film-forming polysilsesquioxane resin.
[0020] Selon ces modes de réalisation particuliers, la composition cosmétique de l'invention présente l'avantage, une fois appliquée sur la peau, les lèvres ou les fibres de kératine, de former un film de haute tenue produisant un effet mat tout à fait surprenant et une sensation de confort remarquable. According to these particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition of the invention has the advantage, once applied to the skin, the lips or the keratin fibers, of forming a high-strength film producing a matte effect while surprising fact and a remarkable feeling of comfort.
[0021]Au sens de l'invention, le terme « matières kératiniques » vise les fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cils, les sourcils ou les cheveux, et les fibres kératiniques artificielles telles que les faux-cils. Une composition de maquillage destinée à être appliquée sur ces fibres kératiniques est aussi appelée « mascara ». Within the meaning of the invention, the term "keratin materials" refers to human keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the hair, and artificial keratin fibers such as the false eyelashes. A makeup composition intended to be applied to these keratin fibers is also called “mascara”.
[0022] Selon un mode de réalisation avantageux de l'invention, la résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane d- est une résine de formule (R-Si03/2)x, dans laquelle : R représente un groupe alkyle en C1-C20/ un groupe alcényle en C1-C20, un groupe cycloalkyle en C3-C12, un groupe aryle en C1-C12, ou un groupe aralkyle en C1-C20, et [0022] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- is a resin of formula (R-Si0 3/2) x, wherein R represents a C1-C20 / group C1-C20 alkenyl, a C3-C12 cycloalkyl group, a C1-C12 aryl group, or a C1-C20 aralkyl group, and
x est un entier allant de 1 à 500. x is an integer ranging from 1 to 500.
[0023]Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par : For the purposes of the present invention, the following terms mean:
[0024]Alkyle : un groupe aliphatique hydrocarboné saturé, linéaire ou ramifié, en Cr C2o, de préférence en Ci-Ci2, plus préférentiellement en CI-CÔ, et encore plus préférentiellement en C1-C4. Le terme « ramifié » signifie qu'au moins un groupe alkyle inférieur tel qu'un méthyle ou un éthyle est porté par une chaîne alkyle linéaire. A titre de groupe alkyle, on peut mentionner par exemple les groupes méthyle, éthyle, n-propyle, i-propyle, n-butyle, t-butyle et n-pentyle. Alkyl: a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group, in Cr C 2 o, preferably in Ci-Ci2, more preferably in C I -C Ô , and even more preferably in C1-C4. The term "branched" means that at least one lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl is carried by a linear alkyl chain. Mention may be made, as alkyl group, of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl and n-pentyl groups.
[0025]Alcényle : un groupe aliphatique hydrocarboné insaturé comprenant une double liaison covalente entre deux atomes de carbone, linéaire ou ramifié, en C2-C20, de préférence en C2-Ci2, plus préférentiellement en C2-C6, et encore plus préférentiellement en C2-C4. Le terme « ramifié » signifie qu'au moins un groupe alkyle inférieur tel qu'un méthyle ou un éthyle est porté par une chaîne alcényle linéaire. A titre de groupe alcényle, on peut mentionner par exemple les groupes éthylène, propylène, n-butylène, t-butylène et n-pentylène. Alkenyl: an unsaturated hydrocarbon aliphatic group comprising a covalent double bond between two carbon atoms, linear or branched, of C2-C20, preferably C 2 -Ci2, more preferably C 2 -C 6 , and even more preferably in C2-C4. The term "branched" means that at least one lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl is carried by an alkenyl chain linear. Mention may be made, as alkenyl group, of the ethylene, propylene, n-butylene, t-butylene and n-pentylene groups.
[0026]Cycloalkyle : tout groupe fonctionnel ou substituant dérivé d'un cycle non aromatique comportant au moins 3 atomes de carbone, et de préférence en C3- C12, comportant éventuellement, de façon optionnelle, un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes choisis parmi P, S, O et N. Parmi de tels groupes, on peut notamment citer le cyclopropyle, le cyclobutyle, le cyclopentyle, le cyclohexyle ; le groupe cyclohexyle étant préféré. Cycloalkyl: any functional group or substituent derived from a non-aromatic ring containing at least 3 carbon atoms, and preferably C 3 -C 12, optionally comprising, optionally, one or more heteroatoms chosen from P, S, O and N. Among such groups, mention may in particular be made of cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl; the cyclohexyl group being preferred.
[0027]Aryle : tout groupe fonctionnel ou substituant dérivé d'au moins un cycle aromatique ; un cycle aromatique correspond à tout groupe mono- ou polycyclique plan comportant un système p délocalisé dans lequel chaque atome du cycle comporte une orbitale p, lesdites orbitales p se recouvrant les unes les autres ; parmi de tels groupes aryle, on peut mentionner les groupes phényle, biphényle, naphthalène et anthracène. Les groupes aryle de l'invention comprennent de préférence de 4 à 12 atomes de carbone, et de manière encore plus préférée de 5 ou 6 atomes de carbone. De manière encore plus préférée, le groupe aryle de l'invention est un groupe phényle. Aryl: any functional group or substituent derived from at least one aromatic ring; an aromatic cycle corresponds to any planar mono- or polycyclic group comprising a delocalized p system in which each atom of the cycle comprises an orbital p, said orbitals p overlapping one another; among such aryl groups, mention may be made of phenyl, biphenyl, naphthalene and anthracene groups. The aryl groups of the invention preferably comprise from 4 to 12 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 5 to 6 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, the aryl group of the invention is a phenyl group.
[0028]Aralkyle : tout groupe dérivé d'un groupe alkyle tel que défini ci-dessus dans lequel un atome d'hydrogène est remplacé par un groupe aryle. Aralkyl: any group derived from an alkyl group as defined above in which a hydrogen atom is replaced by an aryl group.
[0029]Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, la résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane d- est une résine polyalkylsilsesquioxane ou polyarylsilsesquioxane choisie parmi les résines polyméthylsilsesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polyphénylsilsesquioxane, et leurs mélanges. According to a preferred embodiment, the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- is a polyalkylsilsesquioxane or polyarylsilsesquioxane resin chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polyphenylsilsesquioxane resins, and mixtures thereof.
[0030] La résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane d- est lipodispersible et non absorbante de phase grasse. The film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- is lipodispersible and non-absorbent from the fatty phase.
[0031] La résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane d- présente avantageusement un point de ramollissement entre 75 et 90°C. En outre, son point d'ignition peut varier entre 230 et 240°C, et de préférence entre 235 et 240°C. Une autre caractéristique de la résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane d- est sa densité qui est de préférence inférieure à 1,3, plus préférentiellement comprise entre 1,20 et 1,28, et encore plus préférentiellement comprise entre 1,22 et 1,26. La résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane d- de l'invention se différencie des poudres de polysilsesquioxane classiquement utilisées en cosmétique en ce qu'elle présente une température de transition vitreuse comprise entre 75 et 90°C. Elle présente en outre une taille de particules comprise entre 200 et 300 pm. The film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- advantageously has a softening point between 75 and 90 ° C. In addition, its flash point can vary between 230 and 240 ° C, and preferably between 235 and 240 ° C. Another characteristic of the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- is its density which is preferably less than 1.3, more preferably between 1.20 and 1.28, and even more preferably between 1.22 and 1.26. The film-forming polysilsesquioxane d- resin of the invention differs from polysilsesquioxane powders conventionally used in cosmetics in that it has a glass transition temperature of between 75 and 90 ° C. It also has a particle size of between 200 and 300 µm.
[0032]Selon un mode de réalisation particulièrement préféré, la résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane d- est la polyméthylsilsesquioxane, par exemple celle commercialisée sous le nom SilForm* Flexible Resin S de Momentive Performance Materials. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- is polymethylsilsesquioxane, for example that sold under the name SilForm * Flexible Resin S from Momentive Performance Materials.
[0033] La résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane d- de l'invention se différencie des poudres de polysilsesquioxane en ce qu'elle est constituée d'un réseau polysilsesquioxane tridimensionnel réticulé. The film-forming polysilsesquioxane d- resin of the invention differs from polysilsesquioxane powders in that it consists of a cross-linked three-dimensional polysilsesquioxane network.
[0034] La composition cosmétique de l'invention comprend également au moins une argile naturelle ou synthétique a-, de préférence choisie parmi les bentonites, en particulier les hectorites et les montmorillonites, les beidellites, les saponites, les nontronites, les sépiolites, les biotites, les attapulgites, les vermiculites et les zéolites. De préférence, elle est choisie parmi les hectorites. On utilise encore plus préférentiellement des hectorites modifiées avec un chlorure d'alkylammonium quaternaire, ledit ammonium étant substitué par au moins un, et de préférence au moins deux radicaux alkyles en C1 -C20, tel que le distéardimonium hectorite dans lequel l'ammonium comprend deux groupes méthyle et deux groupes stéaryle. The cosmetic composition of the invention also comprises at least one natural or synthetic clay a-, preferably chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolite, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites. Preferably, it is chosen from hectorites. Even more preferably, hectorites modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride are used, said ammonium being substituted with at least one, and preferably at least two C 1 -C 20 alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.
[0035] La composition cosmétique de l'invention comprend également au moins une charge matifiante b- choisie parmi les micas naturels et / ou synthétiques, constituée de préférence d'une charge solide sous forme pulvérulente ou poudre, tel que celui commercialisé sous la dénomination SUBMICA® M par la société Sensient Cosmetic Technologies. Au sens de l'invention, il faut entendre par « charge », une masse de particules de nature minérale ou organique, naturelle ou synthétique, qui se présente sous une forme insoluble et dispersée dans le milieu de la composition. [0036]Comme son nom l'indique, la charge dite « matifiante » permet d'obtenir un effet mat une fois le film formé après application. Cet effet de matité est particulièrement important quand on cherche à éviter un rendu maquillage brillant. C'est en particulier le cas quand la composition est appliquée sur les cils ou les sourcils. Cette charge matifiante, par l'effet qu'elle produit, permet aussi, quand on applique la composition sur la peau, d'en atténuer les imperfections de la peau telles que les rides ou ridules apparaissant progressivement avec l'âge. The cosmetic composition of the invention also comprises at least one mattifying filler b- chosen from natural and / or synthetic micas, preferably consisting of a solid filler in pulverulent or powder form, such as that sold under the name SUBMICA® M by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies. For the purposes of the invention, the term "filler" should be understood to mean a mass of particles of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which is in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. As the name suggests, the so-called "mattifying" filler makes it possible to obtain a matt effect once the film has been formed after application. This matte effect is particularly important when trying to avoid a shiny makeup look. This is in particular the case when the composition is applied to the eyelashes or the eyebrows. This mattifying filler, by the effect it produces, also makes it possible, when the composition is applied to the skin, to attenuate the imperfections of the skin such as wrinkles or fine lines appearing gradually with age.
[0037]La charge matifiante b- peut être au moins partiellement constituée de particules traitées en surface par un agent organique hydrophile ou lipophile pour faciliter leur incorporation dans la composition, en particulier pour disperser les particules de façon homogène dans la composition. The mattifying filler b- may be at least partially made up of particles treated on the surface with a hydrophilic or lipophilic organic agent to facilitate their incorporation into the composition, in particular for dispersing the particles homogeneously in the composition.
[0038]Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention, la charge matifiante b- est constituée de particules non sphériques ou sphériques, aux contours réguliers ou irréguliers, ou bien encore hemi-sphériques ou plaquettaires, ayant une taille médiane en volume, notée D5o, inférieure ou égale à 25 pm, notamment inférieure ou égale à 15 pm, en particulier inférieure ou égale à 10 pm. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mattifying filler b- consists of non-spherical or spherical particles, with regular or irregular contours, or even hemi-spherical or platelet-shaped, having a median size by volume, denoted D 5 o, less than or equal to 25 pm, in particular less than or equal to 15 pm, in particular less than or equal to 10 pm.
[0039]La composition cosmétique de l'invention comprend également au moins une huile volatile c-, qui peut être une huile hydrocarbonée, siliconée, ou un mélange des deux. Elle peut être d’origine animale, végétale, minérale ou synthétique. The cosmetic composition of the invention also comprises at least one volatile oil c-, which can be a hydrocarbon-based, silicone oil, or a mixture of the two. It can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0040] L'huile volatile c- est susceptible de s'évaporer au contact de la peau en moins d'une heure, à température ambiante (25°C) et pression atmosphérique (750 mm Hg, soit 105 Pa). La présence d'au moins une huile volatile c- dans la composition cosmétique de l'invention est essentielle en ce qu'elle permet par son évaporation rapide au moment de l'application de la composition sur un support tel que la peau ou des matières kératiniques, la formation progressive d'un film in situ. Ce film produit alors l'effet visuel ou de soin recherché, qui présente une texture souple et procure un confort remarquable et une tenue supérieure à 24 heures. The volatile oil c- is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (750 mm Hg, or 105 Pa). The presence of at least one volatile oil c- in the cosmetic composition of the invention is essential in that it allows its rapid evaporation when the composition is applied to a support such as the skin or materials keratin, the progressive formation of a film in situ. This film then produces the desired visual or care effect, which has a supple texture and provides remarkable comfort and lasting more than 24 hours.
[0041]Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « huile hydrocarbonée », une huile contenant principalement des atomes d'hydrogène et de carbone. [0042]0n entend par « huile siliconée », un composé comprenant au moins un atome de silicium, et notamment au moins un groupe Si-O. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms. By "silicone oil" is meant a compound comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0043] Les huiles peuvent éventuellement comprendre des atomes d'oxygène, d'azote, de soufre et / ou de phosphore, par exemple, sous la forme de radicaux hydroxyles ou acides. The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
[0044]0n peut notamment citer parmi les huiles volatiles hydrocarbonées, les alcanes ramifiés ayant de 8 à 16 atomes de carbone tels que les isoalcanes (appelées aussi isoparaffines) ayant de 8 à 16 atomes de carbone comme l’isododécane, l'isodécane, l'isohexadécane, les esters ramifiés ayant de 8 à 16 atomes de carbone comme le néopentanoate d'isohexyle, et leurs mélanges. Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, une huile volatile hydrocarbonée comprend ou est constituée d'isododécane. On peut également citer les alcanes linéaires ayant de 8 à 16 atomes de carbone, en particulier de 10 à 15 atomes de carbone, et plus particulièrement de 11 à 13 atomes de carbone. Mention may in particular be made, among volatile hydrocarbon oils, of branched alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, branched esters having 8 to 16 carbon atoms such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, a volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises or consists of isododecane. Mention may also be made of linear alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
[0045]Comme huiles volatiles siliconées, on peut citer les huiles siliconées linéaires telles que rhexaméthyldisiloxane, l'octaméthyltrisiloxane, le décaméthyltétrasiloxane, le tétradécaméthylhexasiloxane, l'hexadécaméthylheptasiloxane et le dodécaméthylpentasiioxane. Comme huiles volatiles siliconées cycliques, on peut citer la cyclopentasiloxane, l'hexaméthylcyclotrisiloxane, l'octaméthylcylotétrasiloxane, le décaméthylcyclopentasiloxane et le dodécaméthylcyclohexasiloxane. As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear silicone oils such as rhexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiioxane. As volatile cyclic silicone oils, mention may be made of cyclopentasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
[0046]Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention, l'huile volatile d- est choisie parmi l'isododécane, l'isohexadecane, la cyclopentasiloxane, et leurs mélanges. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil d- is chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane, cyclopentasiloxane, and their mixtures.
[0047]Selon une variante de réalisation particulière, l'huile volatile c- comprend ou est constituée d'isododécane. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile oil c- comprises or consists of isododecane.
[0048]La composition cosmétique de l'invention peut comprendre un ou plusieurs composants additionnels ou adjuvants qui permettent d'améliorer la composition sur des critères tels que la stabilité chimique ou microbiologique, l'aspect visuel ou olfactif, le comportement rhéologique ou encore conférer à cette composition une activité cosmétique, par exemple d'hydration et / ou anti-âge, sans altérer les propriétés essentielles à la base de l'invention telles que la tenue, la matité ou le confort du film formé par ladite composition après application. The cosmetic composition of the invention may comprise one or more additional components or adjuvants which make it possible to improve the composition on criteria such as chemical or microbiological stability, the visual or olfactory appearance, the rheological behavior or even confer to this composition cosmetic activity, for example hydration and / or anti-aging, without altering the essential properties on the basis of the invention such as the hold, the mattness or the comfort of the film formed by said composition after application.
[0049] Un polymère de silicone peut aussi être présent dans la composition cosmétique de l'invention. Dans le texte, le mot polymère peut désigner un homopolymère ou un copolymère. Par « copolymère », on entend un polymère comprenant au moins deux monomères ou deux blocs différents, pouvant être de la même famille chimique mais de structure différente. A silicone polymer can also be present in the cosmetic composition of the invention. In the text, the word polymer can denote a homopolymer or a copolymer. By "copolymer" is meant a polymer comprising at least two different monomers or two blocks, which may be of the same chemical family but of different structure.
[0050] Le polymère de silicone de l'invention possède au moins une fonction siloxane. Il se présente de préférence sous forme liquide à température ambiante (25°C). The silicone polymer of the invention has at least one siloxane function. It is preferably in liquid form at room temperature (25 ° C).
[0051] Le polymère de silicone de l'invention est avantageusement choisi parmi l'éthyl méthicone, le caprylyl méthicone, le phényltriméthicone, ou leurs mélanges. De façon particulièrement avantageuse, il s'agit du caprylyl méthicone tel que celui commercialisé par DOW CORNING sous la référence FZ-3196. The silicone polymer of the invention is advantageously chosen from ethyl methicone, caprylyl methicone, phenyltrimethicone, or their mixtures. Particularly advantageously, it is caprylyl methicone such as that sold by DOW CORNING under the reference FZ-3196.
[0052]Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, le polymère de silicone représente de 0,1% à 10%, et encore plus particulièrement de 0,5 à 5%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. According to a particular embodiment, the silicone polymer represents from 0.1% to 10%, and even more particularly from 0.5 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0053] Le polymère de silicone de l'invention est non volatil. The silicone polymer of the invention is non-volatile.
[0054]Selon un autre mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l'invention peut également comprendre une matière colorante en particulier choisie parmi les pigments et les nacres. According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention can also comprise a coloring matter in particular chosen from pigments and nacres.
[0055] Les pigments peuvent être sous forme de poudre et, selon une variante, présentent un diamètre moyen ne dépassant pas 200 pm, et selon une autre variante, ne dépassant pas 150 pm. The pigments may be in the form of powder and, according to one variant, have an average diameter not exceeding 200 μm, and according to another variant, not exceeding 150 μm.
[0056] Par « pigments », il faut comprendre des particules blanches ou colorées, minérales ou organiques, enrobés ou non, insolubles dans une phase aqueuse, destinées à colorer et / ou opacifier la composition les contenant. Parmi les pigments utilisables dans la composition de l'invention, on cite le dioxyde de titane, éventuellement traité en surface, les oxydes de zirconium, de zinc ou de cérium, ainsi que les oxydes de fer ou de chrome, le violet de manganèse, le bleu outremer, l'hydrate de chrome, le bleu ferrique, le noir de carbone, et leurs mélanges. Il peut également s'agir d'un pigment ayant une structure qui peut être par exemple de type séricite/oxyde de fer brun/dioxyde de titane/silice. Il peut encore s'agir de pigments ayant une structure qui peut être, par exemple, de type microsphères de silice contenant de l'oxyde de fer. De manière avantageuse, les pigments de l'invention sont des oxydes de fer et / ou des dioxydes de titane. By "pigments" should be understood white or colored, mineral or organic particles, coated or not, insoluble in an aqueous phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition containing them. Among the pigments which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention is made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, carbon black, and their mixtures. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may, for example, be of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. It may also be pigments having a structure which can be, for example, of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. Advantageously, the pigments of the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.
[0057] Les particules de pigments peuvent être traitées en surface par le dépôt d'un agent à la surface de la matière colorante par évaporation de solvant, réaction chimique, ou création de liaisons covalentes entre l'agent de surface et la particule traitée. Selon une variante de réalisation particulière, l'agent est une silicone ou un acide aminé. Le pigment peut être enrobé par une couche de silicone, en particulier par une couche de méthicone, de diméthicone (aussi appelée polydiméthylsiloxane (PDMS)), de diméthicone hydrogéné, d'un copolymère diméthicone-méthicone, d'un copolymère acrylate-diméthicone, et encore plus particulièrement par une couche de diméthicone. Selon une autre variante de réalisation particulière, le pigment est choisi parmi les oxydes de fer et / ou les dioxydes de titane, enrobés dans une couche de diméthicone. The pigment particles can be treated at the surface by the deposition of an agent on the surface of the coloring matter by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction, or creation of covalent bonds between the surfactant and the treated particle. According to a particular embodiment, the agent is a silicone or an amino acid. The pigment can be coated with a layer of silicone, in particular with a layer of methicone, of dimethicone (also called polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)), of hydrogenated dimethicone, of a dimethicone-methicone copolymer, of an acrylate-dimethicone copolymer, and even more particularly with a layer of dimethicone. According to another particular variant embodiment, the pigment is chosen from iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides, coated in a layer of dimethicone.
[0058]Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition cosmétique de l'invention comprend également une matière colorante choisie parmi les pigments et / ou les nacres, qui peut représenter de 1 à 20% en poids, et selon une variante de 2 à 15% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention also comprises a coloring material chosen from pigments and / or nacres, which can represent from 1 to 20% by weight, and according to a variant from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0059]Selon un autre mode de réalisation préférée, la composition cosmétique comprend de 0 à 5% en poids, de préférence de 0 à 3% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 0 à 2% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 0 à 1% en poids, d'une cire. According to another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0 to 1% by weight, of a wax.
[0060]Selon encore un autre mode de réalisation de l'invention, la composition est exempte de cire. According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of wax.
[0061] La cire peut être par exemple choisie parmi : les cires dites « apolaires » telles que les cires microcristallines, les paraffines, l'ozokérite, les cires de polyéthylène, les cires de silicone et les cires fluorées, les cires dites « polaires », telles que par exemple la cire d'abeille, la cire de son de riz, la cire de Carnauba, la cire de Candellila, la cire d'Ouricurry, la cire du Japon, la cire de Berry, la cire de Sumac, la cire de Montan, la cire d’Alfa, la cire de fibres de liège, la cire de canne à sucre, la cire d’orange, la cire de citron, la cire de laurier, les cires obtenues par hydrogénation d'huiles animales ou végétales ayant des chaînes grasses, linéaires ou ramifiées, en C8-C32, telles que l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de tournesol, l'huile de ricin, l'huile de coprah, l'huile de lanoline, l'huile d'olive estérifiée avec l'alcool stéarylique, l'huile de ricin estérifiée avec l'alcool cétylique, et leur(s) mélange(s). The wax can for example be chosen from: so-called “apolar” waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes, so-called “polar” waxes, such as for example beeswax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricurry wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, Sumac wax, Montan wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, orange wax, lemon wax, bay laurel, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils with fatty chains, linear or branched, C8-C32, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, lanolin oil, olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, l castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, and their mixture (s).
[0062]Selon un autre mode de réalisation, la composition de l'invention peut également comprendre tout additif usuellement utilisé en cosmétique tels que des antioxydants, des conservateurs, des parfums, des agents actifs cosmétiques, comme par exemple des émollients, des hydratants, des vitamines, des filtres solaires, et leurs mélanges. According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.
[0063]Selon d'autres modes de réalisation, la composition de l'invention peut se présenter sous toutes les formes cosmétiques classiquement utilisées pour des applications sur les fibres kératiniques, la peau, telles que les formes solides, liquides, ou même liquides sous pression. Elle peut notamment être formulée sous la forme d'une crème, d'un gel, d'un produit anhydre. According to other embodiments, the composition of the invention can be in all the cosmetic forms conventionally used for applications on keratin fibers, the skin, such as solid, liquid, or even liquid forms under pressure. It can in particular be formulated in the form of a cream, a gel, an anhydrous product.
[0064] La composition de l'invention peut être préparée selon des procédés classiques pour les compositions comprenant une huile volatile. La composition selon l'invention est plus particulièrement un produit pour sourcils destiné au maquillage des fibres kératiniques et / ou de la peau, notamment des sourcils et / ou de la peau sous les sourcils. Lorsque la composition de l'invention est destinée à la formulation de produits pour sourcils, le procédé de préparation de ladite composition peut éventuellement comprendre une étape de broyage afin d'obtenir une poudre formée de fines particules solides. Cette étape de broyage peut être réalisée dans un broyeur tricylindrique tel qu'un broyeur EXAKT 50i de la société EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES. [0065]Selon un autre mode de réalisation particulier, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est formulée sous forme d'un produit pour sourcils anhydre comprenant les constituants a-, b-, c- et d- mentionnés précédemment. The composition of the invention can be prepared according to conventional methods for the compositions comprising a volatile oil. The composition according to the invention is more particularly an eyebrow product intended for making up keratin fibers and / or the skin, in particular the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows. When the composition of the invention is intended for the formulation of eyebrow products, the process for the preparation of said composition may optionally include a grinding step in order to obtain a powder formed of fine solid particles. This grinding step can be carried out in a three-cylinder mill such as an EXAKT 50i mill from the company EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES. According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is formulated in the form of an anhydrous eyebrow product comprising the constituents a-, b-, c- and d- mentioned above.
[0066] L'invention vise également un procédé de maquillage et / ou de soin des matières kératiniques et / ou de la peau comprenant une étape d'application sur les matières kératiniques et / ou la peau, notamment les sourcils et / ou la peau sous les sourcils, d'une composition cosmétique selon l'invention. The invention also relates to a process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials and / or the skin, comprising a step of application to keratin materials and / or the skin, in particular the eyebrows and / or the skin. under the eyebrows, a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0067]Un autre objet de l'invention vise un film constitué d'une composition cosmétique selon l'invention ayant en particulier une épaisseur allant de 150 à 800 pm. Another object of the invention is a film consisting of a cosmetic composition according to the invention having in particular a thickness ranging from 150 to 800 pm.
[0068] Une fois sec, le film formé sur le support est essentiellement exempt d'huile volatile c-. Once dry, the film formed on the support is essentially free of volatile oil c-.
[0069] Un objet supplémentaire de l'invention concerne l'utilisation d'une composition cosmétique selon l'invention pour le maquillage et / ou le soin des matières kératiniques, de la peau et / ou des lèvres, et particulièrement pour le maquillage des sourcils et / ou de la peau sous les sourcils. Ainsi, l'invention vise des produits pour sourcils, des mascaras, des fonds de teint et des rouges à lèvres, et plus particulièrement des produits pour sourcils. An additional object of the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, the skin and / or the lips, and particularly for making up eyebrows and / or skin under the eyebrows. Thus, the invention relates to eyebrow products, mascaras, foundations and lipsticks, and more particularly eyebrow products.
[0070]Ainsi, la présente invention couvre également des produits pour sourcils, des mascaras, des fonds de teint, et des rouges à lèvres, comprenant une composition cosmétique selon l'invention. Ces produits de maquillage allient tenue, confort et souplesse, pendant au moins 24 heures. En particulier, un produit pour sourcils selon l'invention présente une tenue d'au moins 24 heures, voire jusqu'à 36 heures, et résiste à une journée, une nuit et une douche. Thus, the present invention also covers products for eyebrows, mascaras, foundations, and lipsticks, comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention. These makeup products combine hold, comfort and flexibility, for at least 24 hours. In particular, an eyebrow product according to the invention has a hold of at least 24 hours, or even up to 36 hours, and withstands a day, a night and a shower.
[0071]Un autre objet de l'invention vise un procédé de maquillage et / ou de soin des matières kératiniques et / ou de la peau comprenant une étape d'application sur les matières kératiniques et / ou la peau, en particulier les sourcils et / ou la peau sous les sourcils, d'une composition cosmétique selon l'invention. Selon un mode de réalisation particulièrement avantageux, l'invention vise un procédé pour colorer les sourcils et / ou la peau sous les sourcils comprenant une étape d'application d'une composition cosmétique selon l'invention sur les sourcils et / ou la peau sous les sourcils. Another object of the invention is a process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials and / or the skin, comprising a step of application to keratin materials and / or the skin, in particular the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows, of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the invention relates to a method for coloring the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows comprising a step applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention to the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows.
[0072] Un dernier objet de l'invention concerne un kit de maquillage comprenant une composition cosmétique selon l'invention, conditionnée dans un réservoir, ainsi que des moyens de prélèvement et d'application de ladite composition sur les fibres kératiniques, la peau et / ou les lèvres, et plus particulièrement sur les sourcils et / ou la peau sous les sourcils. A final object of the invention relates to a makeup kit comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention, packaged in a reservoir, as well as means for removing and applying said composition to the keratin fibers, the skin and / or the lips, and more particularly on the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows.
[0073] Le réservoir peut être un flacon, un godet ou un pot. The tank can be a bottle, a cup or a pot.
[0074] Les moyens de prélèvement et d'application peuvent comprendre une brosse, un pinceau, une éponge ou une mousse alvéolée. The sampling and application means may include a brush, a paintbrush, a sponge or a cellular foam.
[0075]0utre les modes ou variantes de réalisation qui précèdent, l'invention comprend encore d'autres modes ou variantes de réalisation qui ressortiront du complément de description qui suit, qui se rapporte à la préparation de compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention données à titre d'illustration et qui ne sauraient en aucune façon limiter la portée de l'invention, ainsi que de compositions cosmétiques représentatives de l'art antérieur données à titre de comparaison. Les exemples de l'invention font partie intégrante de l'invention. In addition to the preceding embodiments or variants, the invention also comprises other embodiments or variants which will emerge from the additional description which follows, which relates to the preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention given in by way of illustration and which in no way limit the scope of the invention, as well as of cosmetic compositions representative of the prior art given for comparison. The examples of the invention form an integral part of the invention.
Exemples Examples
[0076] Une composition cosmétique selon l'invention (composition 1), deux compositions cosmétiques comparatives (compositions 2 et 3), et une composition représentative de l'état de l'art (composition 4), ont été préparées comme décrit ci-après. La composition 4 représentative de l'état de l'art est une composition selon la demande WO2018/096262. A cosmetic composition according to the invention (composition 1), two comparative cosmetic compositions (compositions 2 and 3), and a composition representative of the state of the art (composition 4), were prepared as described below. after. Composition 4 representative of the state of the art is a composition according to application WO2018 / 096262.
[0077] Les quatre formulations préparées ont les compositions indiquées au Tableau 1 ci-après (les quantités sont exprimées en % en poids) : [0078] [Tableau 1] The four formulations prepared have the compositions indicated in Table 1 below (the quantities are expressed in% by weight): [Table 1]
Figure imgf000017_0001
Figure imgf000017_0001
[0079] Le Bentone Gel® ISD V (Elementis Specialties) est constitué de: Bentone Gel® ISD V (Elementis Specialties) consists of:
87,0% en poids d'isododécane, 87.0% by weight of isododecane,
10,0% en poids de distéardimonium hectorite, et 3,0% en poids de carbonate de propylène. 10.0% by weight of hectorite disteardimonium, and 3.0% by weight of propylene carbonate.
[0080]La résine SilForm* Flexible Resin S a tout d'abord été dispersée dans l'isododécane à l'aide d'un agitateur ULTRA TURRAX, à température ambiante. Le bentone Gel® ISD V a ensuite été ajouté, puis le mélange oxyde de fer traité et caprylyl méthicone Dow Corning® FZ-3196, préalablement broyé, et enfin le mica ou le dioxyde de titane. The SilForm * Flexible Resin S resin was firstly dispersed in isododecane using an ULTRA TURRAX agitator, at room temperature. Bentone Gel® ISD V was then added, then the mixture of treated iron oxide and caprylyl methicone Dow Corning® FZ-3196, previously ground, and finally the mica or titanium dioxide.
[0081] La composition obtenue est un produit pour sourcils. Ce produit pour sourcils est appliqué sur les sourcils et la peau sous les sourcils à l'aide d'un applicateur adapté. L'évaporation de l'isododécane permet la formation d'un film sur les fibres de kératine. The composition obtained is an eyebrow product. This eyebrow product is applied to the eyebrows and the skin under the eyebrows using an applicator. adapted. The evaporation of the isododecane allows the formation of a film on the keratin fibers.
[0082] Le film de composition 1 (invention) présente une texture souple produisant une sensation de confort. Le rendu maquillage est un effet mat. Le produit pour sourcils peut être conservé pendant plus de 24 heures, et peut supporter un passage sous la douche. Il présente en outre des propriétés de coloration supérieures à celles des produits comparatifs car il colore simultanément les sourcils et la peau sous les sourcils. The composition film 1 (invention) has a flexible texture producing a feeling of comfort. The makeup look is a matte effect. The eyebrow product can be stored for more than 24 hours, and can withstand a passage in the shower. It also has coloring properties superior to those of the comparative products because it simultaneously colors the eyebrows and the skin under the eyebrows.
[0083] Le film de composition 2 (comparatif) présente une texture souple produisant une sensation de confort. The composition film 2 (comparative) has a flexible texture producing a feeling of comfort.
[0084] Les films de compositions 3 (comparatif) et 4 (art antérieur) sont hétérogènes et totalement instable à T0 (sédimentation totale des pigments). Les films obtenus ne sont pas exploitables, et n'ont pas pu faire l'objet de tests de mouillabilité et de tenue tels que décrits ci-après. The films of compositions 3 (comparative) and 4 (prior art) are heterogeneous and completely unstable at T0 (total sedimentation of the pigments). The films obtained cannot be used, and could not have been subjected to wettability and resistance tests as described below.
[0085]Test de mouillabilité : Méthode de mesure de l'angle de contact Appareil : analyseur de forme de goutte KRUSS DSA100 Wettability test: Method for measuring the contact angle Device: drop shape analyzer KRUSS DSA100
Température : 23°C Temperature: 23 ° C
Goutte déposée : eau distillée ou sébum artificiel (constitué de 25% huile de jojoba, 60% de Miglyol 829, 15% de squalane végétal) Drop applied: distilled water or artificial sebum (consisting of 25% jojoba oil, 60% Miglyol 829, 15% vegetable squalane)
Préparation : étalement d'un film humide de 100 pm d'épaisseur sur une carte de contraste LENETA Preparation: spreading of a wet film 100 μm thick on a LENETA contrast card
Séchage : une nuit à l'étuve à 25°C Drying: overnight in an oven at 25 ° C
Mesures : dépôt de gouttes de 4 pL Measures: deposit of 4 pL drops
Les mesures sont réalisées immédiatement après le dépôt de la goutte (T0), et après 5 minutes de stabilisation de l'étalement (T5min). Les valeurs indiquées dans le Tableau 2 ci-après sont une moyenne de 10 gouttes déposées. [0086] [Tableau 2] The measurements are carried out immediately after the drop has been deposited (T0), and after 5 minutes of stabilization of the spread (T5min). The values indicated in Table 2 below are an average of 10 drops deposited. [Table 2]
Figure imgf000019_0001
Figure imgf000019_0001
[0087] Eau distillée : plus l'angle est grand, plus a formule est hydrophobe. Distilled water: the larger the angle, the more hydrophobic the formula.
Sébum artificiel : plus l'angle est grand, plus la formule est lipophobe. Artificial sebum: the larger the angle, the more lipophobic the formula.
[0088] La composition 2 (comparatif) présente une très mauvaise mouillabilité au sébum. La composition 1 (invention) présente une bonne mouillabilité à la fois à l'eau et au sébum, et représente le meilleur compromis. Composition 2 (comparative) has very poor sebum wettability. Composition 1 (invention) has good wettability with both water and sebum, and represents the best compromise.
[0089]Test de tenue : Méthode sur plaque Bioskin plate plongé dans des bains 0,1 g de la composition cosmétique est déposée sur un carré de 5x5 cm sur une plaque Bioskin plate, et le film est laissé séché entièrement. Resistance test: Method on a flat Bioskin plate immersed in baths 0.1 g of the cosmetic composition is deposited on a square 5 × 5 cm on a flat Bioskin plate, and the film is left to dry completely.
Milieux testés : eau distillée à température ambiante, eau distillée à 40°C, et sébum artificiel (constitué de 25% d'huile de jojoba, 60% de Miglyol 829, 15% de squalane végétal). Media tested: distilled water at room temperature, distilled water at 40 ° C, and artificial sebum (consisting of 25% jojoba oil, 60% Miglyol 829, 15% vegetable squalane).
La plaque Bioskin plate est placé dans un cristallisoir contenant l'eau distillée ou le sébum artificiel muni d'un agitateur magnétique triangulaire (L = 12 mm). The flat Bioskin plate is placed in a crystallizer containing distilled water or artificial sebum fitted with a triangular magnetic stirrer (L = 12 mm).
Vitesse de rotation : 400 tours/minute Rotation speed: 400 rpm
Durée du test : 15 minutes Duration of the test: 15 minutes
Une fois la plaque Bioskin plate sortie du bain, trois allers avec un coton sont opérés sur le film, et la tenue du film évaluée. Once the flat Bioskin plate has been removed from the bath, three runs with a cotton pad are made on the film, and the performance of the film evaluated.
Les résultats du test de tenue sont rassemblés dans le Tableau 3 ci-après : The results of the resistance test are collated in Table 3 below:
[0090] [Tableau 3] [0091] Le meilleur compromis de tenue eau distillée à température ambiante/eau distillée à 40°C/sébum artificiel est obtenu pour la composition 1 de l'invention. La composition 2 (comparatif) présente une tenue globale insuffisante, avec notamment une tenue médiocre à l'eau distillée à 40°C et une mauvaise tenue au sébum artificiel. [Table 3] The best compromise in holding distilled water at room temperature / distilled water at 40 ° C / artificial sebum is obtained for composition 1 of the invention. Composition 2 (comparative) has insufficient overall resistance, with in particular poor resistance to distilled water at 40 ° C. and poor resistance to artificial sebum.

Claims

Revendications Claims
1. Composition cosmétique anhydre comprenant : 1. Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:
a- au moins une argile naturelle ou synthétique, a- at least one natural or synthetic clay,
b- au moins une charge matifiante choisie parmi les micas naturels et / ou b- at least one mattifying filler chosen from natural micas and / or
synthétiques, synthetic,
c- au moins une huile volatile, c- at least one volatile oil,
caractérisée en ce que ladite composition comprend également : characterized in that said composition also comprises:
d- de 20 à 40% en poids d'une résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique. d- from 20 to 40% by weight of a film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle la résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane d- est une résine de formule (R-Si03/2)x dans laquelle : 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the film-forming d- polysilsesquioxane resin is a resin of formula (R-Si0 3/2) x wherein:
R représente un groupe alkyle en Ci-C2o, un groupe alcényle en C1-C20, un groupe cycloalkyle en C3-C12, un groupe aryle en C4-C12, ou un groupe aralkyle en C1-C20, et x est un entier allant de 1 à 500. R represents an alkyl group Ci-C 2 o, alkenyl, C1-C20 cycloalkyl, C3-C12 aryl, C4-C12, or an aralkyl group C1-C20, and x is an integer ranging from 1 to 500.
3. Composition selon la revendication 1 ou la revendication 2, dans laquelle la résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane d- est une résine polyalkylsilsesquioxane ou polyarylsilsesquioxane, de préférence choisie parmi les résines polyméthylsilsesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polyphénylsilsesquioxane, et leurs mélanges. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, in which the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- is a polyalkylsilsesquioxane or polyarylsilsesquioxane resin, preferably chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polyphenylsilsesquioxane, and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3, dans laquelle l'argile naturelle ou synthétique a- est choisie parmi les bentonites, en particulier les hectorites et les montmorillonites, et de préférence les hectorites. 4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, in which the natural or synthetic clay a- is chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, and preferably hectorites.
5. Composition selon la revendication 4, dans laquelle l'argile a- est une hectorite modifiée avec un chlorure d'alkylammonium quaternaire, l'ammonium étant substitué par au moins un, et de préférence au moins deux radicaux alkyles en Ci4- C20, tel que le distéardimonium hectorite dans lequel l'ammonium comprend deux groupes méthyle et deux groupes stéaryle. 5. Composition according to claim 4, wherein the a- clay is hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride, ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two alkyl radicals -C 4 - C20, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.
6. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5, dans laquelle la charge matifiante b- choisie parmi les micas naturels et / ou synthétiques se présente sous forme pulvérulente ou de poudre, en particulier de particules non sphériques, sphériques, aux contours réguliers ou irréguliers, ou plaquettaires, ayant une taille médiane en volume D50 inférieure ou égale à 25 pm, de préférence inférieure ou égale à 15 pm, et plus préférentiellement inférieure ou égale à 10 pm. 6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, in which the mattifying filler b- chosen from natural and / or synthetic micas is in powder or powder form, in particular non-spherical, spherical particles with regular contours. or irregular, or platelet-shaped, having a median size by volume D 50 less than or equal to 25 μm, preferably less than or equal to 15 μm, and more preferably less than or equal to 10 μm.
7. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 6, dans laquelle l'huile volatile c- est une huile hydrocarbonée et / ou siliconée ; en particulier l'huile volatile c- hydrocarbonée est choisie parmi les alcanes ramifiés ayant de 8 à 16 atomes de carbone tels que les isoalcanes (appelées aussi isoparaffines) ayant de 8 à 16 atomes de carbone comme l'isododécane, l'isodécane, l’isohexadécane, les esters ramifiés ayant de 8 à 16 atomes de carbone comme le néopentanoate d'isohexyle, et leurs mélanges ; en particulier l'huile volatile siliconée, est choisie parmi les huiles volatiles siliconées linéaires telles que l'hexaméthyldisiloxane, l'octaméthyltrisiloxane, le décaméthyltétrasiloxane, le tétradécaméthylhexasiloxane, l’hexadécaméthylheptasiloxane et le dodécaméthylpentasiloxane ou les huiles volatiles siliconées cycliques, telles que la cyclopentasiloxane, l'hexaméthylcyclotrisiloxane, l'octaméthylcyclotétrasiloxane, le décaméthylcyclopentasiloxane et le dodécaméthylcyclohexasiloxane. 7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the volatile oil c- is a hydrocarbon and / or silicone oil; in particular the volatile c-hydrocarbon oil is chosen from branched alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms such as isododecane, isodecane, l 'isohexadecane, branched esters having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof; in particular the volatile silicone oil, is chosen from linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane or volatile oils such as volatile oils or cyclic oils such as volatile oils hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
8. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 7, dans laquelle l'huile volatile c- est choisie parmi l'isododécane, l'isohexadécane, la cyclopentasiloxane, et leurs mélanges. 8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, in which the volatile oil c- is chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane, cyclopentasiloxane, and their mixtures.
9. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 8, dans laquelle la résine filmogène polysilsesquioxane d- représente de 25 à 35% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, in which the film-forming resin polysilsesquioxane d- represents from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 9, dans laquelle l'argile naturelle ou synthétique a- représente de 0 ,5 à 15%, de préférence de 1 à 10%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 2 à 8%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, in which the natural or synthetic clay a- represents from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10%, and even more preferably from 2 to 8%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 10, dans laquelle la charge matifiante b- choisie parmi les micas naturels et / ou synthétiques représente de 0,5 à 30%, de préférence de 1 à 20%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 2 à 15%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, in which the mattifying filler b- chosen from natural and / or synthetic micas represents from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 20%, and even more preferably from 2 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 11, dans laquelle l'huile volatile c- représente de 1% à 50%, de préférence de 2 à 30%, et plus préférentiellement de 3 à 20%, en poids du poids total de la composition. 12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, in which the volatile oil c- represents from 1% to 50%, preferably from 2 to 30%, and more preferably from 3 to 20%, by weight of the weight total of the composition.
13. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 12, dans laquelle la composition comprend également un polymère de silicone, en particulier choisi parmi l'éthyl méthicone, le caprylyl méthicone, le phényltriméthicone, ou leurs mélanges. 13. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, in which the composition also comprises a silicone polymer, in particular chosen from ethyl methicone, caprylyl methicone, phenyltrimethicone, or mixtures thereof.
14. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 13, dans laquelle la composition comprend également une matière colorante en particulier choisie parmi les pigments et les nacres qui peut représenter de 1 à 20%, et de préférence de 2 à 15%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 14. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 13, in which the composition also comprises a coloring matter in particular chosen from pigments and nacres which can represent from 1 to 20%, and preferably from 2 to 15%, in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 14, dans laquelle la composition comprend également une cire qui peut représenter de 0 à 5%, et de préférence de 0 à 3%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, en particulier choisie parmi : les cires dites « apolaires » telles que les cires microcristallines, les paraffines, l'ozokérite, les cires de polyéthylène, les cires de silicone, et les cires fluorées ; les cires dites « polaires », telles que la cire d'abeille, la cire de son de riz, la cire de Carnauba, la cire de Candellila, la cire d'Ouricurry, la cire du Japon, la cire de Berry, la cire de Sumac, la cire de Montan, la cire d'Alfa, la cire de fibres de liège, la cire de canne à sucre, la cire d'orange, la cire de citron, la cire de laurier, les cires obtenues par hydrogénation d'huiles animales ou végétales ayant des chaînes grasses, linéaires ou ramifiées, en C8-C 2, telles que l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de tournesol, l'huile de ricin, l'huile de coprah, l'huile de lanoline, l'huile d'olive estérifiée avec l'alcool stéarylique, l'huile de ricin estérifiée avec l'alcool cétylique, et leur(s) mélange(s). 15. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 14, in which the composition also comprises a wax which can represent from 0 to 5%, and preferably from 0 to 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular chosen from: so-called “apolar” waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, silicone waxes, and fluorinated waxes; so-called “polar” waxes, such as beeswax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricurry wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, wax of Sumac, Montan wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, orange wax, lemon wax, laurel wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of '' animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, C 8 -C 2, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, oil lanolin, olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, and their mixture (s).
16. Film caractérisé en ce qu'il est constitué d'une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 15, en particulier ayant une épaisseur de 150 à 800 pm. 16. Film characterized in that it consists of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 15, in particular having a thickness of 150 to 800 µm.
17. Utilisation d'une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 15 pour le maquillage et / ou le soin des matières kératiniques et / ou de la peau, notamment des sourcils et / ou de la peau sous les sourcils. 17. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 15 for making up and / or caring for keratin materials and / or the skin, especially the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows.
18. Produit pour sourcils, mascara, fond de teint ou rouge à lèvres, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 15, ou un film selon la revendication 16. 18. Product for eyebrows, mascara, foundation or lipstick, characterized in that it comprises a composition according to one of claims 1 to 15, or a film according to claim 16.
19. Procédé de maquillage et / ou de soin des matières kératiniques et / ou de la peau, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une étape d'application sur les matières kératiniques et / ou la peau, notamment les sourcils et / ou la peau sous les sourcils, d'une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 15. 19. Method for making up and / or caring for keratin materials and / or the skin, characterized in that it comprises a step of application to keratin materials and / or the skin, in particular the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows, of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 15.
20. Procédé selon la revendication 19 pour colorer les sourcils et / ou la peau sous les sourcils, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une étape d'application sur les sourcils et / ou la peau sous les sourcils d'une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 15. 20. The method of claim 19 for coloring the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows, characterized in that it comprises a step of applying to the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 15.
21. Kit de maquillage, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 15, conditionnée dans un réservoir, en particulier un flacon, un godet ou un pot ; ainsi que des moyens de prélèvement et d'application de la composition sur les fibres kératiniques, la peau et / ou les lèvres, et en particulier sur les sourcils et / ou la peau sous les sourcils. 21. Make-up kit, characterized in that it comprises a composition according to one of claims 1 to 15, packaged in a reservoir, in particular a bottle, a cup or a pot; as well as means for sampling and applying the composition to the keratin fibers, the skin and / or the lips, and in particular to the eyebrows and / or the skin under the eyebrows.
PCT/FR2019/053242 2018-12-20 2019-12-20 Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a polysilsesquioxane film-forming resin WO2020128392A1 (en)

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20100291013A1 (en) * 2009-05-18 2010-11-18 L'oreal Comfortable, transfer-resistant colored compositions
US8741276B2 (en) * 2007-06-06 2014-06-03 L'oréal Comfortable, long wearing colored cosmetic compositions
WO2018096262A1 (en) 2016-11-23 2018-05-31 Lvmh Recherche Film-forming composition based on pullulan, and uses thereof in cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8741276B2 (en) * 2007-06-06 2014-06-03 L'oréal Comfortable, long wearing colored cosmetic compositions
US20100291013A1 (en) * 2009-05-18 2010-11-18 L'oreal Comfortable, transfer-resistant colored compositions
WO2018096262A1 (en) 2016-11-23 2018-05-31 Lvmh Recherche Film-forming composition based on pullulan, and uses thereof in cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips

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