FR2957253A1 - Preparation of cosmetic composition, useful for care and/or make up of keratin material, e.g. skin, comprises adding a film forming polymer in premix form with volatile linear alkane, to a medium having additional cosmetic ingredient - Google Patents

Abstract

Preparation of a cosmetic composition comprises adding at least one film forming polymer in the form of pre mix with one or more volatile linear alkane having 9-14C, to a medium comprising at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, where the film forming polymer is different from alkane copolymer. Independent claims are included for: (1) cosmetic composition obtained by the process, comprising film forming polymer, one or more volatile linear 9-14C alkane, and at least one medium comprising at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient; and (2) a cosmetic product in the form of the premix obtained by the process, comprising at least one liposoluble film forming polymer and one or more volatile linear alkanes.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of film-forming polymers in the form of a premix with one or more volatile linear alkane (s), in cosmetic compositions, especially cosmetic care and / or make-up compositions. keratin materials.

By `keratin materials' is meant in particular skin, lips, nails, and keratin fibers, such as hair and eyelashes.

The use of said premixes according to the invention makes it possible in particular to improve the resistance of said compositions of the invention to said keratin materials and advantageously their cosmetic properties when applied (comfort). It is known to those skilled in the art to use film-forming polymers to improve the performance of cosmetic compositions. Mention may be made, by way of example, of silicone resins, polyacrylates, latices, etc. These polymers are most often conveyed in a solvent, which makes it easier to incorporate them into the composition during the manufacture of the products. This solvent is chosen according to the chemical nature of the polymer, so as to solubilize or disperse homogeneously. It can be oily or aqueous, volatile or non-volatile. Lipophilic film-forming polymers are thus most often solubilized or dispersed in volatile or non-volatile oily solvents, silicone or not. In particular, the prior art discloses the use of branched paraffinic hydrocarbons or mineral oil for solubilizing or dispersing copolymers of alkenes (US Pat. No. 5,221,534, US Pat. No. 6,340,467 and US Pat. No. 6,340,467), or the use of branched alkanes of the isododecane type for transporting block polymers as described in EP 1 411 069. However, these solvents, which may be present in large quantities associated with the film-forming polymers in the premixes, may alter the holding properties conferred by said film-forming polymers or to modify the cosmetic properties of the composition on application, in particular to induce a lack of comfort (sensation of dryness) or to induce a contribution of stickiness (feeling of fatness).

There remains therefore the need to find compounds which are good solvents liposoluble or lipo-dispersible film-forming polymers for obtaining premixes used in cosmetic compositions, and which also make it possible to improve the cosmetic properties of said compositions, in particular the holding properties and advantageously the comfort properties to the application. However, the Applicant has unexpectedly found that the use of linear alkane (s) volatile (s) including C9-C14 to meet these needs: they allow to solubilize or disperse liposoluble film-forming polymers or lipo-dispersible and even improve the hold (of dullness) and comfort at the application, compared for example with the use of isododecane. These volatile C9-C14 linear alkanes have the further advantage of being more environmentally friendly than the synthetic hydrocarbons above and are easier to use at the industrial level than isoparrafines or isododecane, because of their higher flash point (usually> 60 ° C).

The invention therefore relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, comprising the addition, to a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, of at least one film-forming polymer. in the form of a premix with one or more volatile linear alkanes including C9-C14, said film-forming polymer being distinct from a copolymer of alkenes.

"Pre-mixing" means a solution or a dispersion of said film-forming polymer in the volatile linear alkane or alkanes, usable for the preparation of a cosmetic composition.

According to a first embodiment, the volatile linear alkane or alkanes are present in the synthesis reaction medium of said film-forming polymer.

According to another embodiment, the volatile linear alkane or alkanes are present in the solvent for solubilizing or dispersing said film-forming polymer. In particular, the volatile linear alkane (s) predominantly represent the solvent for solubilization or dispersion of said film-forming polymer, that is to say that said solvent comprises more than 70% by weight of volatile linear alkanes, preferably more than 80% by weight. % by weight, better still more than 90% by weight and according to a preferred embodiment 100% by weight of said solvent for solubilizing or dispersing said film-forming polymer.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition that can be obtained according to the method of preparation, and comprising a film-forming polymer in the form of a premix with one or more volatile linear alkanes, especially C 9 -C 14, and at least one a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least one additional cosmetic ingredient. In particular, it relates to a cosmetic composition obtained according to said preparation process, and comprising a film-forming polymer, one or more volatile linear alkanes, especially C 9 -C 14, and at least one physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least one additional cosmetic ingredient.

According to one particular embodiment, the additional cosmetic ingredient is chosen from dyestuffs.

The composition according to the invention may be a makeup composition or a care composition for keratin materials, in particular skin and lips, and preferably a make-up composition. The makeup composition may be a lip makeup product (lipstick), a foundation, an eyeshadow, a blush, a concealer, an eyeliner, a body make-up product, an mascara, a nail polish, a hair makeup product.

The care composition may be a product for the care of the skin of the body and the face, in particular a sun product, a product for coloring the skin (such as a self-tanner). The composition may also be a hair product, especially for maintaining the hairstyle or shaping the hair.

According to a preferred embodiment, said composition is a makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular a foundation, a lipstick, a nail polish, a mascara, or a makeup composition for the hair.

The invention also relates to the cosmetic product in the form of a premix capable of being used in the process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention and essentially consisting of at least one polymer film-forming agent and one or more volatile linear alkanes.

By "essentially" is meant that said liposoluble film-forming polymer and the volatile linear alkane (s) represent more than 95% by weight, in particular at least 98% by weight and better still at least 99% by weight relative to the total weight. premix.

FILMOGENIC POLYMERS By "polymer" is meant here a compound having one or more repeating units and preferably at least 2 repeating units.

The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a film which is macroscopically continuous and adheres to the keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film of which the cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolatable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said film is produced by casting on a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface.

The film-forming polymers of the invention are lipophilic, in particular liposoluble or lipo-dispersible, that is to say soluble or dispersible in oils.

The film-forming polymers of the invention are distinct from the copolymers of alkenes.

The film-forming polymers of the invention may be synthesized in the presence of volatile linear alkane (s) according to the invention or may be solubilized or dispersed in said volatile linear alkane (s). according to the invention in the form of premixes.

Said film-forming polymers may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based, silicone or fluorinated film-forming polymers.

Among the hydrocarbon-based film-forming polymers, mention may be made of: homo and copolymers of (meth) acrylic esters, in particular the polymers resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, ethyl-2 hexyl, heptyl, octyl, lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, behenyl, isobornyl, norbornyl, acrylate or methacrylate, in particular that sold under the trade name GIOVAREZ AC-5099M by the company Phoenix Chemicals; mention may also be made in this family of block polymers which comprise at least a first sequence and at least a second sequence, which are mutually incompatible, and which are linked by an intermediate sequence which comprises at least one constituent monomer of each of said two sequences. These monomers are of the alkyl acrylate or methacrylate type, in particular methyl, isobutyl, isobornyl or (meth) acrylic acid, such as the poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate) copolymer. acrylic acid), the synthesis of which is described in particular in Example 1 of application FR 0 853 223, homo and copolymers of vinyl esters, in particular the polymers resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl butanoate, vinyl octanoate, vinyl decanoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate, vinyl isostearate, vinyl dimethyl-2, 2-octanoate, and vinyl dimethylpropionate, homo and copolymers of vinyl ethers, in particular the polymers resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethyl vinyl ether, n-butylvinylether, isobutylvinylether, decylvinylether, dodecylvinylether, cetylvinylether and octadecylvinylether, homo and copolymers of vinyl amides and (meth) acrylic amides, cellulose derivatives in particular alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated C 1 to c 8 such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, or cellulose esters such as cellulose acetate, propionates and cellulose butyrates, polycondensates, in particular polyesters, polyurethanes, polyamides and polyureas.

Among the silicone film-forming polymers, mention may be made of: silicone resins, in particular MQ resins such as trimethylsiloxysilicates, MT resins such as silsesquioxane derivatives such as polymethylsilsesquioxanes, polypropylsilsesquioxanes and phenylpropylpolysilsesquioxanes and MQT resins, silicones resulting from the reaction of a silicone resin (MQ) comprising reactive SiOH groups with polyorganosiloxanes also comprising SiOH reactive groups (dimethiconols), in particular those present in the product sold under the trade name BIO-PSA 7-4560 silicone gums, which may be high molecular weight polysiloxanes of the order of 200,000 to 1,000,000 and greater than 500,000 mPa.s, polyacrylates grafted with linear silicone chains, such as silicone-grafted polyalkylmethacrylates; present in the product sold under the name KP 54 5 and 550 by Shin-Etsu, polyacrylates grafted with silicone dendrimer chains such as those described in application EP 963 751 A2 of Dow Corning and present in the products sold under the name of DC FA 4002 ID and DC FA 4001 CM, polyurethane silicones, and polyamide silicones such as those present in the product sold under the trade name DC 2-8179 by the company Dow Corning.

Among the fluorinated film-forming polymers, mention may be made of the fluorinated MQ resin whose INCI name is Trifluoropropyldimethylsiloxy triethylsiloxysilacate and marketed under the name XS66-B8226 by the company MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS. .

The film-forming polymers defined above may have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

According to a preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer is a silicone-forming film-forming polymer, in particular chosen from silicone resins and acrylate silicones grafted with linear silicone or dendrimer chains.

The percentage by weight of active material of film-forming polymer (s) in the premix will generally be between 0.5 and 60%, preferably between 10 and 55% and even more preferably between 15 and 50% by weight. of active material relative to the total weight of said premix.

This solution or dispersion of the film-forming polymer in the volatile linear alkanes of the invention can be introduced into make-up and care compositions, but also into solar or capillary compositions, in proportions such as the content of active ingredient of film-forming polymer. in the cosmetic composition is from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

These compositions may be in all galenic forms, in particular anhydrous compositions, water-in-oil (W / O) and oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions.

In a particular embodiment, these will be W / O and O / W emulsions, in particular W / O emulsions.

VOLATILE LINEAR ALKANES By "one or more volatile linear alkane (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile linear alkane (s) oil (s)".

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at room temperature (about 25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). By "volatile linear alkane" suitable for the invention is meant a linear cosmetic alkane, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg, ie 101,325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, having in particular an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and pressure. atmospheric (760 mmHg). Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg). Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg). More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure ( 760 mmHg). Still more preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg). More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate of from 0.01 to 0.12 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure ( 760 mmHg).

The rate of evaporation of a volatile alkane according to the invention (and more generally of a volatile solvent) can be evaluated in particular by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described herein. -after.

Is introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance in a chamber of about 0.3 m3 regulated temperature (25 ° C) and humidity (relative humidity 50%) 15 g volatile hydrocarbon solvent . The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions / minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the hydrocarbon solvent. volatile, the blades being directed to the crystallizer, at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of volatile hydrocarbon solvent remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular time intervals. The evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amount of product evaporated (in mg / cm 2) as a function of time (in min). Then we calculate the evaporation rate that corresponds to the tangent at the origin of the curve obtained. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit area (cm 2) and per unit of time (minute).

According to a preferred embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a non-zero vapor pressure (also called saturated vapor pressure) at room temperature, in particular a vapor pressure of 0.3 Pa. at 6,000 Pa. Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.). More preferably, "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C). In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.).

More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C).

According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range of from 30 to 120 ° C, and more particularly from 40 to 100 ° C. In particular, the flash point is measured according to ISO 3679.

According to one embodiment, an alkane that is suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 9 to 14 carbon atoms. In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature ( 25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), and comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin. Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one isotope 14C of the carbon (carbon 14), in particular the isotope 14C may be present in a ratio 14C / 12C greater than or equal to 1.10-16, preferably greater than or equal to 1.10-15, more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5.10-14, and more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5.10-13. Preferably, the ratio 14C / 12C is from 6.10-13 to 1.2.10-12. The quantity of isotopes 14C in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known to those skilled in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or else accelerator mass spectrometry (Accelerator Mass Spectrometry). Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.

By way of example of alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of linear alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11) and n-dodecane (C12). , ntridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, ndodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the volatile linear alkane (s) are chosen from n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises dodecane. According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises tetradecane.

According to another preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), such as those sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.

The volatile linear alkane alone can be used. It is alternatively or preferentially possible to use a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon atoms of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2 .

According to a first embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1. As examples mention may in particular be made of volatile linear alkane mixtures C10 / C11, Cl1 / C12 or C12 / C13. According to another embodiment, a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2 is used. mention may in particular be made of C10 / C12 or C12 / C14 volatile linear alkane mixtures for an even number of carbon atoms and the Cl 1 / C13 mixture for an odd carbon number n. According to a preferred embodiment, a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes having 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of carbon atoms, is used. volatile linear alkanes Cl 1 / C13 or a mixture of linear volatile alkanes C12 / C14.15 Other mixtures combining more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, such as for example a mixture of at least 3 volatile linear alkanes comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, are also part of the invention, but the mixtures of 2 linear volatile alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures ), said 2 volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and more preferably more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the volatile linear alkane having the smallest carbon number is predominant in the mixture. According to another embodiment of the invention, a volatile linear alkane mixture is used in which the volatile linear alkane having the largest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.

By way of examples of mixtures which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following mixtures: from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, and still more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, C n volatile linear alkane with n ranging from 9 to 14 - from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of volatile linear Cn + alkane x with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, with n + x between 10 and 14, relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

In particular, said mixture of alkanes according to the invention contains: less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of branched hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture.

More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be used in the form of a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture.

In particular, use will be made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising: from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of volatile linear C11 alkane (n-undecane), from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear C13 alkane (n-tridecane) relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

According to a particular embodiment, the mixture of alkanes is a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture. In particular such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059. According to another particular embodiment, the n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 is used by SASOL. According to another particular embodiment, n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 is used by SASOL. According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of ndodecane and n-tetradecane is used.

The volatile linear alkane (s) may be present in the premix according to the invention in a content ranging from 40% to 99.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the premix, preferably ranging from 45% at 90% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 50% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the premix. PREPARATION OF PRE-MIXING The premix according to the invention can be prepared according to several methods:

According to a first method, the film-forming polymer is solubilized or dispersed at ambient temperature by means of agitation, for example by the following steps: a) the volatile linear alkane (s) are mixed at ambient temperature with said polymer; a film-forming agent, said polymer preferably being at a concentration of between 0.5 and 60% in the volatile alkane (s) (preferably between 5 and 50%); B) the mixture is stirred at room temperature and stirring is maintained for a variable period, generally between 10 minutes and 24 hours (preferably between 1 hour and 8 hours), until a solution is obtained or homogeneous and stable dispersion of said film-forming polymer.

According to an alternative to this process, the solubilization or dispersion of said hot film-forming polymer is carried out in linear volatile alkanes by stirring, for example according to the following steps: a) the linear volatile alkanes are heated to a temperature below their flash point and they are mixed with said film-forming polymer, b) is stirred at this temperature and this temperature is maintained until a homogeneous and stable solution or dispersion of said film-forming polymer is obtained.

According to another method, the polymerization reaction of said film-forming polymer is carried out in the volatile linear alkanes of the invention, which makes it possible to obtain the polymer directly in the form of premix.

For this reference will be made in particular to applications EP 0 749 747 and EP 0 749 746 relating to the realization of these Non Aqueous Dispersions (NAD).

By `homogeneous solution 'is meant a medium transparent to the naked eye in which the polymer is evenly distributed in the premix. By `homogeneous dispersion 'is meant a medium more or less opaque to the naked eye in which the polymer forms a second phase distinct from the solvent and which is distributed homogeneously to the naked eye in the premix.

The premix may comprise a content of between 0.5 and 60%, preferably between 10 and 55% and even more preferably between 15 and 50% by weight of film-forming polymer active material relative to the total weight of said pre-mix. mixed.

The premix may comprise from 40% to 99.5% by weight of volatile linear alkanes, based on the total weight of the premix, preferably from 45% to 90% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 50% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the premix. PREPARATION OF A COMPOSITION CONTAINING SAID PRE-MIXING The premix according to the invention can be used in the preparation of a cosmetic composition in combination with at least one additional cosmetic ingredient.

The additional cosmetic ingredient may be selected from oily or aqueous solvents, gelling agents, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, gums, resins, dispersing agents, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, UV protective agents, cosmetic active ingredients, such as vitamins, moisturizing agents, emollients, fillers, pulverulent or non-pulverulent dyestuffs, and mixtures thereof.

It is routine for one skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additional cosmetic ingredients present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and holding properties of the these are not affected.

According to a first embodiment, said premix constitutes the core of the composition and will in particular represent more than 80%, especially more than 90%, or even more than 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. By way of example, a composition according to the invention may comprise said premix and a perfume as the sole additional cosmetic ingredient.

According to another embodiment, said premix constitutes an ingredient of the composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, and will generally represent less than 50% by weight, especially less than 40% by weight, or even less than 30% by weight relative to to the total weight of said composition. This embodiment will be exemplified below.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to keratin materials. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

By way of example, the composition according to the invention may comprise in particular at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at least one additional oil, distinct from the volatile linear alkanes of the premix described above. In general, said premix will be added to the liquid fatty phase of said composition.

Oils The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure.

A composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 5 to 95%, in particular from 10 to 80%, in particular from 15 to 70%, and more particularly from 20 to 65% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition. The oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or otherwise, or mixtures thereof. The oils can be volatile or nonvolatile.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one variant embodiment, the oils of plant origin are preferred.

According to one particular embodiment, the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one volatile oil, in particular a volatile silicone oil. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 at 300 mm Hg), and preferably, ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), 10 mmHg). As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Aqueous Phase The composition may or may not further comprise an aqueous phase generally comprising water and / or water-miscible solvents, such as alcohols and in particular lower linear or branched monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, for example ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, and polyols such as glycerine, diglycerine, propylene glycol, sorbitol, penthylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols.

Charks The composition may further comprise at least one filler. By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-13-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon® ), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap®). Dow Corning Company) and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, microspheres hollow silica (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. Coloring materials According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff, in particular at least one material. dye pulverulent. The dyestuff is especially chosen from organic or inorganic dyestuffs, in particular of the type of pigment or nacre conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, materials with specific optical effect and mixtures thereof. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film. The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.1 to 40% by weight, in particular from 1 to 30% by weight, and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and Chromium hydrate.

Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) lacquers. ) described in EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-96/08537. By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, in particular, produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5 and yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and especially interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and - mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The dyestuffs may be present in a proportion of from 0.1 to 40% by weight, in particular from 1 to 30% by weight, and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The invention will now be illustrated in the following nonlimiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the values are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES Examples 1 and 2: Influence of the process

The examples of fluid foundation 1 and 2 make it possible to compare the two following methods:

Example 1 (Invention): Pre-mixing of the silicone resin in the volatile linear alkanes of the invention followed by the introduction of this premix into the composition.

Example 2 (comparative): introduction of the silicone resin and the volatile linear alkanes of the invention separately into the composition. EXAMPLE 1 (Invention) mass Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the reference 2,70 ABIL EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt Isostearate polyglycerol 4 sold under the reference ISOLAN 0.90 Al GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt Butyl paraben 0.10 Dimethicone copolyol sold under the reference KF 6017 by 3.00 Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 8.95 A3 bentone gel sold under the reference Bentone Gel VS 5 V 4.00 by Elementis Trimethyl siloxysilicate resin sold under 10,00 A4 SR 1000 by Momentive Performance Materials Mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane in which the n-15.00 undecane is predominant in the mixture * Cyclohexasiloxane 6.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate of aluminum 1.79 Red iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl 0.54 A5 Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.19 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 7.48 Nano titanium oxide sold under the reference UV Titan M212 0.25 19 A6 Silica microsphere sold under the reference SB 700 by the 5.50 company Miyoshi Kasei A7 Perfume 0.30 Demineralized water 25.00 Methyl Paraben 0.20 B PEG 20 1.70 Magnesium sulphate 0.70 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 C Ethanol 5.00 TOTAL 100% * Major mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane as prepared according to the application WO2008 / 155059. Procedure The constituents of the Al phase are weighed into the main beaker and this phase is heated to 75 ° C. until the butyl paraben is dissolved. Then, at room temperature, the A2 and A3 phases are added with stirring using a Moritz stirrer (1000 rpm). When the dispersion is homogeneous, phase A4 is added while maintaining the stirring at room temperature.

This phase A4 was prepared beforehand by dispersing the silicone resin at room temperature in the volatile linear alkanes by stirring with a Rayneri stirrer equipped with a deflocculator (about 100 rpm). Phase A5 is prepared separately by grinding three times with the three-cylinder, the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane.

This phase A5 is then added while maintaining stirring, as well as the phases A6 and A7. The aqueous phase B is also prepared separately, by weighing the PEG 20 then the methyl paraben and the magnesium sulphate in a beaker and adding water preheated to 95 ° C.

The aqueous phase is stirred with a magnetic stirring bar until the three components are dissolved and the phenoxy ethanol is added at 40 ° C.

The emulsion is carried out at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase B is poured into the fatty phase by progressively increasing the stirring speed (Moritz) up to 4000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes.

Finally, phase C (ethanol) is added.

The product obtained is stirred with Rayneri (pale) and stirred for 10 minutes at 50 rpm. % EXAMPLE 2 (Comparative) mass Al Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the reference 2,70 ABIL EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt polyglyceryl isostearate 4 sold under the reference ISOLAN 0,90 GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt Butyl paraben 0.10 Dimethicone copolyol sold under the reference KF 6017 by the 3.00 company Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 8.95 A3 Bentone gel sold under the reference Bentone Gel VS 5 V 4.00 by the company Elementis A4 Trimethyl siloxysilicate resin sold under the reference 10.00 SR 1000 by the company Momentive Performance Materials A5 Cyclohexasiloxane 6.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 1.79 Red iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 0.54 Iron oxide black coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.19 titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 7.48 Titanium Nano Oxide sold under the reference UV Titan M212 0.25 A6 Mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane The n-15.00 undecane is predominant in the mixture. A7 Microsphere of Silica sold under the reference SB 700 by the 5.50 company Miyoshi Kasei A8 Perfume 0.30 B Demineralized water 25.00 Methyl Paraben 0.20 PEG 1.70 Magnesium sulphate 0.70 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 C Ethanol 5.00 TOTAL 100% * Major mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane as prepared according to the application WO2008 / 155059.

Procedure The constituents of the Al phase are weighed into the main beaker and this phase is heated to 75 ° C. until the butyl paraben is dissolved. Then, at room temperature, the A2 and A3 phases are added with stirring using a Moritz stirrer (1000 rpm). When the dispersion is homogeneous, phase A4 is added while maintaining stirring. Phase A5 is prepared separately by grinding three times with the three-cylinder, the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane. This phase A5 is then added while maintaining the stirring at room temperature, as well as the phases A6, A7 and A8.

The aqueous phase is stirred with a magnetic stirring bar until the three components are dissolved and the phenoxy ethanol is added at 40 ° C. The emulsion is carried out at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase B is poured into the fatty phase by progressively increasing the stirring speed (Moritz) up to 4000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes.

Finally, phase C (ethanol) is added. The product obtained is stirred with Rayneri (pale) and stirred for 10 minutes at 50 rpm. Measurement of dullness and mattness Principle of measurement The dullness of the face is measured using the polarimetric camera, which is a black-and-white polarimetric imaging system, with which we acquire images in black and white. Parallel (P) and cross (C) polarized light. By analyzing the image resulting from the subtraction of the two images (P-C), the brightness is quantified by measuring the average gray level of the 5% of the brightest pixels corresponding to the gloss zones. Conduct of the test The test is conducted as follows: 16 women arrive in the air-conditioned waiting room (22 ° C + 1- 2 ° C) 15 minutes before the start of the test. They remove their makeup and make an image of one of their cheeks with the polarimetric camera. This image makes it possible to measure the gloss with TO before makeup. Then we weigh 100 mg of foundation in a watch glass that is applied to the bare fingers on the half face on which the measurement was made at TO. After a drying time of 15 minutes, the polarimetric camera then produces an image of the makeup cheek. This image measures the brightness just after makeup (Timm). The models then return to the air-conditioned room for 3 hours.

We finally realize with the polarimetric camera an image of the makeup cheek after 3 hours of waiting. This image makes it possible to measure the gloss after 3 hours of makeup (T3h). Expression of results We calculate the difference (Timm - TO) that measures the effect of makeup. A negative value means that the makeup reduces the shine of the skin and is therefore mattifying. The difference (T3h - Timm) which measures the behavior of this effect is then calculated. The value obtained must be as low as possible which means that the dullness of the makeup does not change over time. Results of resistance to dullness Example 1 Example 2 (Invention) (Comparative) Maturity (Timm-T0) -9.61 -9.15 Maturity (T3h-3.70 5.45 Timm) These results show that when the silicone resin is pre-dispersed in the mixture of undecane (Cl1) and tridecane (C13), it is unexpectedly obtained withstand the higher dullness. Sensory evaluation We asked a panel of 5 users of foundation to test in comparative (0.10 g of each half-face foundation) the foundation of the invention (Example 1) and the bottom Exfoliating complexion (Example 2): The foundation of Example 1 is slightly softer to apply. It forms a more present film and more covering to the application, which is more appreciated. Examples 1 and 3: Influence of the nature of the premixing solvent The comparison of the examples of the fluid foundation 1 and 3 makes it possible to show the influence of the solvent used for the premix:

Example 1 (Invention): Pre-mixing of the silicone resin in the volatile linear alkanes of the invention followed by the introduction of this premix into the composition as described above.

Example 3 (comparative): premixing of the silicone resin in isododecane followed by the introduction of this premix into the composition. % EXAMPLE 3 (Comparative) mass Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the reference 2,70 ABIL EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt Polyglycerol isostearate 4 sold under the reference ISOLAN 0,90 GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt Butyl paraben 0.10 Dimethicone copolyol sold under the reference KF 6017 by the 3.00 company Shin Etsu Cyclohexasiloxane 8.95 Bentone gel sold under the reference Bentone Gel VS 5 V 4.00 by Elementis Resin trimethyl siloxysilicate sold under the reference 10.00 SR 1000 by Momentive Performance Materials Isododecane 15.00 Cyclohexasiloxane 6.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 1.79 Iron oxide red coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.54 Iron oxide black coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.19 titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 7.48 Titanium Nano Oxide sold under the reference UV Titan M212 0.25 Silicon Microsphere sold under the reference SB 700 by 5,50 company Miyoshi Kasei Perfume 0,30 Demineralized water 25,00 Methyl Paraben 0,20 PEG 20 1,70 Magnesium sulphate 0,70 Phenoxyethanol 0,70 Ethanol 5,00 TOTAL 100% Operating mode On proceeds as described in Example 1 above.

Measurement of the mattness and mattness performance The procedure is as described in Example 1 above. A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 BC Matting Results Example 1 Example 3 (Invention) (Comparative) Mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane Nature of in which the n-Isododecane the volatile oil tested undecane is predominant in the mixture * Matte (Timm-T0) -9.61 -10.27 Maturity strength (T3h-3.70 4.11 Timm) * Major mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane as prepared according to the application WO2008 / 155059. These results show that when the silicone resin is pre-dispersed in the mixture of undecane (Cl1) and tridecane (C13), it is unexpectedly obtained to maintain the superior dullness, compared to the same silicone resin predispersed in isododecane. Sensory evaluation We asked a panel of 5 users of foundation to test in comparative (0.10 g of each half-face foundation) the foundation of the invention (Example 1) and the bottom Exfoliating complexion (Example 3): The foundation of Example 3 is slightly drier during application, spreading is more difficult because it dries faster. In the end, it is less appreciated than example 1 to the application.

All of these results show that the use of a film-forming polymer (eg silicone resin) pre-dispersed in at least one volatile linear alkane (eg mixture of undecane: tridecane), for the preparation of a In particular, a cosmetic composition, in particular a foundation, makes it possible, unexpectedly, to improve the cosmetic application and holding properties, in particular the mattness, of said composition.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. A process for the preparation of a cosmetic skincare and / or make-up composition for keratin materials, comprising adding, to a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, at least one film-forming polymer in the form of a premixing with one or more volatile linear alkanes including C9-C14, said film-forming polymer being distinct from an alkenes copolymer. 2. Preparation process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane or alkanes are present in the synthesis reaction medium of said film-forming polymer. 3. Preparation process according to claim 1, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane or alkanes are present in the solvent for solubilization or dispersion of said film-forming polymer. 4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane or alkanes comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms. carbon. 5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane or alkanes are chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and n-tetradecane. and their mixtures. 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane or alkanes are chosen from n-undecane, ndodecane, n-tridecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. 7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkanes are in the form of a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other in carbon number n d at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2. 8. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the mixture of volatile linear alkanes is a mixture n-undecane: n-tridecane (C11 / C13) comprising - from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75 % by weight of volatile linear C11 alkane (n-undecane) - from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear C13 alkane (n-tridecane) relative to the total weight alkanes in said mixture. 9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane (s) are present in a content ranging from 40% to 99.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 45% to 90% by weight. and more preferably ranging from 50% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the premix with said film-forming polymer. 10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is chosen from film-forming hydrocarbon polymers, silicone film-forming polymers, and fluorinated fluorine polymers. 11. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is a silicone-forming film-forming polymer, in particular chosen from silicone resins and acrylate silicones grafted with linear silicone or dendrimer chains. 12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of active material of film-forming polymer in the cosmetic composition ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to relative to the total weight of the composition. 30 13. Cosmetic composition obtained according to the method of any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it comprises a film-forming polymer, one or more volatile linear alkanes including C9-C14, and at least one physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least one additional cosmetic ingredient. 25 14. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional cosmetic ingredient is chosen from dyestuffs. 15. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is a makeup composition of keratin materials, in particular a foundation, a lipstick, a nail polish , a mascara, or a hair makeup composition. 16. Cosmetic product in the form of a premix capable of being used in a process according to any one of claims 1 to 12, essentially consisting of at least one liposoluble film-forming polymer and of one or more volatile linear alkanes.