FR3118709A1 - COMPOSITIONS FOR KERATIN FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITIONS FOR KERATIN FIBERS The present invention relates to a composition for the treatment of keratin fibers comprising: a) at least one cationic surfactant and b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester of the latter, in wherein the amount (b) of ester of polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer or ester(s) of polyol(s) is 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 2.0% by weight more, based on the total weight of the composition. The present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved conditioning effects, especially higher strength of keratin fibers. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITIONS FOR KERATIN FIBERS

The present invention relates to a composition for the treatment, in particular the conditioning, of keratin fibers such as the hair.

STATE OF THE ART

In the field of hair cosmetics, hair conditioning effects are very important properties. A variety of "leave-in" and "rinse-out" cosmetic hair care products have been used for hair conditioning.

In order to improve the aforementioned conditioning effects, it has been proposed to use a cationic surfactant.

For example, WO 2000/07562 and WO 2000/07563 disclose a cosmetic composition for the hair comprising cationic surfactants.

However, there is still a need to improve the hair conditioning effects.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

One of the objects of the present invention is to provide a composition which can provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved conditioning effects, in particular higher strength of keratin fibers.

The above objective can be achieved with a composition for the treatment of keratin fibers comprising:

(a) at least one cationic surfactant and

(b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof,

in which

the amount (b) of ester(s) of polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer, or ester(s) thereof is 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1.0 wt% or more, more preferably 1.5 wt% or more, and most preferably 2.0 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The cationic surfactant (a) can be represented by the following general formula (V):

(V)

in which

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic groups, preferably alkyl groups, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and, optionally, comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens and

X- is selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl sulfates and alkyl or alkylaryl sulfonates.

The (a) cationic surfactant can be selected from betrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, beentrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The ester (b) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester of the latter, can be selected from esters of

the following general formula (I):

R ₃ -OCO-R ₁ (-COO-R ₂ -OCO-R ₁ ) _n -COO-R ₃ (I)

in which :

COR ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

OR ₂ O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,

OR ₃ represents a monoalcoholic hydrocarbon residue, and

n is an integer between 1 and 15,

Or

the following general formula (II):

(II)

in which :

n is an integer between 1 and 15,

COR' ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

OR' ₂ O represents a diglyceryl residue of the following general formula (III):

(III)

in which :

R' ₃ represents H or OR' ₃ represents a fatty acid residue,

Or

the following general formula (IV):

HO-R _1' -(-OCO-R ₂ ''-COO-R ₁ ''-) _h -OH(IV)

in which :

OR _1' 'O represents a dimer diol residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dilinoleic dimer acid,

COR ₂ ''CO represents a fatty acid dimer residue and

h represents an integer between 1 and 9.

The ester (b) of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, may be selected from polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer copolymer esters dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate and mixtures thereof.

The amount (b) of ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or of ester(s) of the latter in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and ideally from 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (c) at least one aminosilicone. The aminosilicone (c) can have a degree of polymerization lower than 2000.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) water.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid.

The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a “rinse-out” type cosmetic composition, and preferably a “rinse-out” type hair cosmetic composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the following step:

application to the keratin fibers of the composition according to the present invention.

The present invention also relates to the use

(a) at least one cationic surfactant and

(b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof,

in a composition for the treatment of keratinous fibres, in which the amount of (b) ester(s) of polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer, or ester(s) thereof is 0.5 % by weight or more, preferably 1.0% by weight or more, more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, and most preferably 2.0% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition, to improve or enhance the conditioning effects of the composition for keratin fibres.

There shows a schematic view of how to determine the bending angles for Examples 1 through 5 and Comparative Example 1.

After diligent research, the inventors have found that it is possible to provide a composition which can provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved conditioning effects, particularly higher strength of keratin fibers.

Thus, the present invention relates mainly to a composition for the treatment of keratin fibers comprising:

(a) at least one cationic surfactant and

(b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof,

in which

the amount (b) of ester(s) of polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer, or ester(s) thereof is 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1.0 wt% or more, more preferably 1.5 wt% or more, and most preferably 2.0 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved conditioning effects, especially higher strength of keratin fibers.

The composition according to the present invention can also give the keratin fibers greater softness.

Thus, the present invention is useful for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, preferably for the conditioning of keratin fibers, and more preferably for providing keratin fibers with superior strength and softness.

The composition according to the present invention can also provide keratin fibers with good cosmetic effects such as strength improvement, for example, increase in bending strength, smooth touch feeling and easy combing.

The “keratinous fibres” designate here the fibers which comprise at least one keratinous substance. It is preferable that at least part of the surface of the keratin fibers is formed by keratin substances. Keratin fibers include hair, eyebrows, eyelashes and others. It is preferred that the present invention be used to treat hair.

The present invention will be described in detail below.

[Composition]

One of the aspects of the present invention relates to a composition intended for the treatment of keratin fibres, such as the hair, comprising:

(a) at least one cationic surfactant and

(b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof,

in which

the amount (b) of ester(s) of polyol(s) and fatty acid dimer, or ester(s) thereof is 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1.0 wt% or more, more preferably 1.5 wt% or more, and most preferably 2.0 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Cationic Surfactant)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more kinds of cationic surfactants can be used in combination.

The cationic surfactant can be selected from the group optionally consisting of polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

Among the examples of quaternary ammonium salts which may be mentioned, mention may be made, in particular:

those of the general formula (V) below:

(V)

in which

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic groups, preferably alkyl groups, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and, optionally, comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens and The aliphatic groups can be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene C ₂ -C ₆ , alkylamide, alkylamido (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkyl (C ₂ -C ₆ ), alkylacetate (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) and hydroxyalkyl groups and aromatic groups such as aryl and alkylaryl; preferably alkyl groups; and X ^- is selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl sulfates and alkyl or alkylaryl sulfonates;

quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (VI) below:

(VI)

in which :

R ₅ is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or coconut;

R ₆ is chosen from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R ₇ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals;

R ₈ is chosen from hydrogen and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals;

X ^- is selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R ₅ and R ₆ are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals, comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R ₇ is methyl and R ₈ is hydrogen. Among these products, mention may be made of Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are marketed under the names “Rewoquat®” W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco;

diquaternary ammonium salts of the formula (VII):

(VII)

in which :

R ₉ is chosen from aliphatic radicals containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;

R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂, R₁₃And R₁₄, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and;

X ^- is selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates and methyl sulfates. An example of such a diquaternary ammonium salt is propane tallow diammonium dichloride; And

quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VIII) below:

(VIII)

in which :

R ₂₂ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radicals and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

from the stem below:

,

linear, branched, saturated and unsaturated C _1- C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radicals of R ₂₇ and hydrogen,

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

from the stem below:

,

linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C _1- C ₆ hydrocarbon radicals of R29, and of hydrogen,

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ , and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6;

each of r1 and t1, which may be the same or different, is 0 or 1, and r2+r1=2r and t1+2t=2t;

y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X ^- is selected from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; provided that the sum of x+y+z is between 1 and 15, that when x is equal to 0, R ₂₃ indicates R ₂₇ , and that when z is equal to 0, R ₂₅ indicates R ₂₉ . R ₂₂ can be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10. When R ₂₃ is the hydrocarbon-based radical R ₂₇ , it can be long and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R ₂₅ is the hydrocarbon radical R ₂₉ , it may contain, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of non-exhaustive example, in one embodiment, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon radicals, saturated and not saturated, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be the same or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is 1. In another embodiment, r, s, and t, which may be the same or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X ^- can be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide and iodide and sulfates C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, such as methyl sulphate. However, methanosulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other ammonium-compatible anion comprising an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions which can be used according to the present invention. In one embodiment, the X ^- anion is selected from methyl chloride and sulfate.

In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of the formula (VIII), in which:

R ₂₂ is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals,

x and y are equal to 1;

z is equal to 0 or 1;

r, s and t are 2;

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

from the stem below:

,

methyl, ethyl, and C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radicals and hydrogen;

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

from the stem below:

,

and hydrogen;

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated radicals. C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl unsaturated.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.

Among the non-restrictive examples of compounds of formula (VIII) which may be mentioned are the salts, for example methyl chloride and sulphate, diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals can have 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and can be derived, for example, from vegetable oil, such as palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or optionally oxyalkylenated alkyldiisopropanolamine on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification can be followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulphates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulphates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin and glycerol chlorohydrin.

These compounds are marketed, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and “Rewoquat® WE 18” by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.

Among other non-restrictive examples of ammonium salts which can be used in the compositions according to the present invention, mention may be made of ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in U.S. Patents Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.

Among the cationic surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the present invention, the quaternary ammonium and diammonium salts include, for example, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltimethylammonium chloride (such as, for example, the products sold under the trade name Dehyquart A by Cognis, or Quartamin 60 W25 by Kao, or Genamin CTAC 25 Clariant), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (in particular the products sold for example by Clariant under the trade name Genamin KDMP or Genamin BTLF, or by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Varisoft BT 85), bedecimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride, behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (Clariant) such as the product marketed by Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131) stearamidopropyldimethyl ammonium chloride ( myristyl acetate), the salt of dipalmitoylethylhy droxymethylammonium such as di-palmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate (INCI name cetearyl alcohol (and) di-palmitoylethyl hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate) (such as the product Dehyquart F 30 from Cognis), ammonium salts di(CrC ₂ alkyl)(C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl)hydroxy(CrC ₂ alkyl), such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium, in which the alkyl radical preferably comprises 12 to 24 carbon atoms, tallow propane diammonium dichloride, behentrimonium methosulfate and their mixtures.

In a particular embodiment, the cationic surfactant is selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof.

The amount of (a) cationic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (a) cationic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the weight composition total.

The amount of (a) cationic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention can vary from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Ester of polyol(s) and Dimer of fatty acid or Ester of the latter)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester of the latter. If at least two esters of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) of the latter, are used, they may be identical or different.

In the expression “ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester of the latter, the term “or an ester of the latter” designates one of the derivatives of these esters and of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer obtained either by reaction of alcoholic function(s) of the polyol, not involved in ester-type bonds with functions of the acid dimer, with one or more carboxylic functions of acid molecules other than the dimer diacid, or alternatively by reaction of the acid function(s) of the diacid dimer, which is not engaged in ester type bonds with alcoholic functions of the polyol, with alcoholic functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol.

Advantageously, the esters of polyol(s) and dimer of fatty diacid, or an ester of the latter, which can be used in the present invention, can have a viscosity, measured at approximately 25ºC, greater than or equal to approximately 1500 mPa.s .

The viscosity of an ester of polyol(s) and of a fatty diacid dimer, or of an ester of the latter, according to the present invention, can be measured according to any method known to those skilled in the art, and for example according to the conventional method described below.

Viscosity can be measured using a cone/plate or an Ares type parallel plate viscometer (TA-Instrument) operated in kinetic scan mode over a shear range of approximately 1- 1000 s ^-1 to induce a flow voltage of about 1000 Pa.

The cone/plate or parallel plates may be made of a material selected from the group consisting of stainless steel, acrylic resins or polyphenylene sulfide (PPS resin).

The diameter of the cone/plate can be 25 mm (cone angle 0.10 radians).

The measurement is carried out at approximately 25ºC.

Before any measurement, the stability of the sample is checked by means of the dynamic sweep period test, which makes it possible to determine whether the sample is stable per se.

Shear viscosity is determined using the ETA value in the plateau region as a function of flow rate.

The dynamic sweep period is determined at a frequency of 1.0 Hz over a period of 600 seconds.

Constant sweep rate measurements are performed with a rate between 1.0 and 1000 s ^-1 and, for example, between 1.0 and 100 s ^-1 .

The viscosity of an ester of polyol(s) and of a fatty diacid dimer, or of an ester of the latter, capable of being used in the present invention can range from approximately 1,500 mPa.s to approximately 150,000 mPa.s, or for example from about 2,000 mPa.s to about 150,000 mPa.s or, for example, from 15,000 mPa.s to about 100,000 mPa.s or, for example, from 30,000 mPa.s to about 80,000 mPa.s.

According to one embodiment, a polyol which is suitable for use in the present invention may be a dimer diol.

The dimer diol and fatty diacid dimer esters which can be used in the context of the present invention are commercially available or can be prepared in a conventional manner. They can be of vegetable origin and can be obtained by esterification of dimers with dimer diols.

In an esterification reaction with a diacid dimer, a polyol dicarboxylate is obtained, which can have an average molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), ranging from 2,000 to 25,000 g/mol or for example between 2000 and 4000 g/mol.

diacid dimer:

The fatty acid dimers, or acid dimers, can be obtained by polymerization, for example by intermolecular dimerization, of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

They can contain two or more carboxylic acid groups.

As we indicated previously, the carboxylic functions of the dimer of fatty acid which are not engaged in the ester bond with the polyol residues can be engaged in other ester bonds with other alcoholic functions of alcohol molecules. other than the polyol(s).

These alcohol molecules or residues can be monoalcohols or polyols.

As examples of alcohol residues which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon compounds which contain a hydroxyl function and which contain from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, or for example from 6 to 36 carbon atoms. carbon, or for example from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, or for example from 16 to 28 carbon atoms, or for example from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

As examples of monoalcohols which are suitable for the present invention, mention may be made, without limitation, of butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, eicosadecanol, phytosterol, isostearol, stearol, ketol, behenol etc.

The fatty acid dimers can be derived, for example, from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, for example from C ₈ to C ₃₄ , or, for example, from C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , in particular from C ₁₆ C ₂₀ and, for example, C ₁₈ .

As examples of such unsaturated fatty acids, there may be mentioned, for example, undecenoic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidinic acid, gadolenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid and arachidonic acid and mixtures thereof.

According to an alternative embodiment, it can be the diacid dimer from which the dimer diol to be esterified can also be derived. It may be its hydrogenated form.

The hydrogenated form of the diacid dimer can be partial or total and can correspond, for example, to the saturated form, which is more stable towards oxidation.

According to another alternative embodiment, it may be the diacid dimer derived from the dimerization of linoleic acid.

According to one embodiment, the diacid dimer can be a commercial product consisting of a dicarboxylic acid containing approximately 36 carbon atoms. This product may also contain a trimeric acid and a monomeric acid, in proportions which depend on the degree of purity of the product.

The products whose content of diacid dimer can be greater than 70% and the others whose content of diacid dimer has been adjusted to 90% or more are marketed in a conventional manner.

It is also possible to find on the market diacid dimers, and, for example, dilinoleic diacids whose oxidative stability has been improved by hydrogenation of the double bonds remaining after the dimerization reaction.

In the present invention, any diacid dimer currently available on the market can be used.

In an esterification reaction with a dimer, the average degree of esterification and the average molecular weight of the resulting ester can be adjusted by varying the ratio of dimer diol to diacid dimer.

Polyols:

The term “polyol” designates any hydrocarbon compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functions and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, or for example from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, or for example from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, or for example from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and, for example, from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

The hydrocarbon chains can be interrupted, if necessary, by the presence of at least one heteroatom and, for example, of an oxygen atom.

A polyol or ester polyol which is suitable for use in the present invention may comprise, for example, 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, or for example 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, or for example 4 to 6 hydroxyl functions.

If necessary, the hydroxyl functions, other than those already used in an ester bond with the diacid dimer, can also be used, in whole or in part, in other ester bonds by reaction with acid molecules other than the diacid dimer.

The polyol or ester thereof which is suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols.

Thus, the polyol may be selected, for example, from the group consisting of a diol, triol, tetraol or pentaol, or an ester thereof.

The polyol can be a diol, or an ester thereof, selected for example from the group consisting of a fatty alcohol dimer, a monoglycerol or a polyglycerol, a monoalkylene or a polyalkylene C _2- C ₄ glycol, a 1,4-butanediol and a pentaerythritol.

As examples of diols which can also be used in the present invention, mention can be made, in a non-exhaustive manner, of butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, 1-decanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecanediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol and xylene glycol, and isomers thereof.

Alternatively, as an example of diols which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of dimeric diols.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dimer diol" denotes the saturated diols derived from the hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined above and, for example, a diacid dimer of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

As for the industrially produced dimer diol, it usually contains other components, e.g. trimer triol, monoalcohol and ether type compounds, depending on the degree of purification of the dimer acid and/or lower alcohol ester of these funds, used as starting material.

As a general rule, products whose diol dimer content is greater than 70% can be used in the present invention. However, a dimer diol of high purity can be used, such as a compound whose dimer diol content is greater than 90%.

Thus, a dimer diol can be produced by hydrogenation, for example by catalytic hydrogenation, of a diacid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

A suitable fatty acid can be such as those mentioned previously and, for example, from C ₈ to C ₃₄ , or, for example from C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , or, for example, from C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ and, more particularly from _C18 .

According to one embodiment, the dimer diol can be derived from the hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid.

A dimer diol can be, for example, dilinoleol.

The dimer diol can generally be saturated.

As another example of a dimer diol which is suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made, for example, of diglycerol.

This compound is a dimer of glycerol resulting from the condensation of two molecules of glycerol, with the loss of a molecule of water.

The term "diglycerol" denotes any combination of isomers which may result from such a condensation, for example linear isomers, branched isomers and, where appropriate, cyclic isomers resulting from intramolecular dehydration of a molecule of diglycerol .

Diglycerol can be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art and in particular those described in patent EP 0 750 848.

By way of examples of acid molecules which can interact with one or more hydroxyl functions of the polyol, which are not involved in the ester bond with the dimer, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of molecules derived from isostearic acid , behenic acid, phytostearic acid, stearic acid or cetyl acid.

An ester which is suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained by reacting a polyol or an ester thereof with a dimer diacid and, for example, a dimer dilinoleic acid, in a molar ratio of about 1.0 :0.2-1.

An ester which can be used in the present invention can be obtained by reacting a dimer dilinoleic acid with a dilinoleol and, optionally, at least one additional monoalcohol selected, for example, from the group consisting of behenol, isostearol, phytosterol, stearol and ketol, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, an ester used in the context of the present invention can be used in the form of a mixture of various esters, for example.

An ester which is suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained, for example, by reacting a glycerol, an isostearic acid and a dimer dilinoleic acid, for example in a molar ratio of 1.0:0.2-1.0: 0.5-0.9.

As examples of esters of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol(s), or an ester thereof, which are suitable for the present invention, there may be mentioned the esters described in patent applications JP-A -2003-226609, JP-A-2004-256515 and JP-A-2005-179377.

An ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which can be used in the present invention can have a molecular weight ranging from about 2,000 to about 25,000 g/mole, for example from about 4,000 to about 20,000 g/mole, for example from about 5,000 to about 20,000 g/mole, for example from 7,000 to about 15,000 g/mole and, for example, from about 8,000 at about 10,000 g/mole.

According to one embodiment, an ester in accordance with the present invention may comprise an alternating sequence of dimer residues and residues linked to these polyols and, for example, to these diols, said polyols or diols being, for example, as defined above.

Consequently, in such a configuration, each of the two ends of said sequence can carry, respectively, an OR' and OR'' unit, R' and R'' independently representing a hydrogen atom or OR' and OR'' representing, independently of each other, a monoalcohol residue based on hydrocarbon, for example based on C ₂ to C ₃₆ , for example, C ₈ to C ₂₄ , for example, C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ and, for example, C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ .

According to one embodiment, R' and R'' can both represent a hydrogen atom.

According to one embodiment, OR' and OR'' can both represent an identical or different hydrocarbon-based monoalcoholic residue.

As examples of hydrocarbon monoalcohol residues OR' and OR'' which may be suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of fatty alcohol residues.

An ester which is suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of esters of general formula (I), (II) or (IV) described below, or a mixture thereof. .

According to one embodiment, an ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester of the latter, which can be adapted to the present invention can have the general formula (I) below:

R ₃ -OCO-R ₁ (-COO-R ₂ -OCO-R ₁ ) _n -COO-R ₃ (I)

in which :

COR ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

OR ₂ O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,

OR ₃ represents a monoalcoholic hydrocarbon residue, and

n is an integer between 1 and 15, for example, between 2 and 10 or between 5 and 7.

According to a variant embodiment, COR ₁ CO can represent a dilinoleate dimer residue.

According to a variant embodiment, OR ₂ O can represent a dilinoleyl dimer residue.

Further, OR ₃ may represent a hydrocarbon monoalcoholic residue selected, for example, from the group consisting of behenyl, isostearyl and phytosteryl residues, and mixtures thereof.

According to another embodiment, the dilinoleic dimer acid ester of the polyol(s) and the fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which can be used in the present invention can, for example, having the general formula (II) below:

(II)

in which :

n is an integer between 1 and 15, for example, between 2 and 10, and in particular between 5 and 7,

COR' ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

OR' ₂ O represents a diglyceryl residue of the general formula (III) below:

(III)

in which :

R' ₃ represents H or OR' ₃ represents a fatty acid residue,

According to a variant embodiment, COR′ ₁ CO can represent a dilinoleate dimer residue.

According to an alternative embodiment, the fatty acid residue presented by OR' ₃ can be an isostearyl residue.

According to one embodiment, an ester of dilinoleic dimer acid and polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which can be adapted to the present invention, can be formula (IV) below:

HO-R _1' -(-OCO-R ₂ ''-COO-R ₁ ''-) _h -OH(IV)

in which :

a) OR _1' 'O represents a dimer diol residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dilinoleic dimer acid,

b) COR ₂ ''CO represents a fatty acid dimer residue and

c) h represents an integer between 1 and 9, for example, between 2 and 8, and between 4 and 6.

According to one embodiment, COR _2''CO can represent a dilinoleate dimer residue.

An ester which is suitable for the present invention may be selected, for example, from the group consisting of esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis -behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate), dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate) and mixtures thereof.

These compounds can be obtained, for example, under the reference Hailuscent ISDA (Kokyu alcohol) and Plandool-G, Plandool-G7, Lusplan DD-DA5, Lusplan DD-DA7, PHY/IS-DA and Lusplan DD-DAS (Nippon Fine Chemical Company Ltd).

For example, Lusplan DD-DA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7 are described in patent application FR 03/02809.

The amount (b) of ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or ester(s) of the latter in the composition according to the present invention is 0.5% by weight or more.

If necessary, the quantity (b) of ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or of ester(s) of the latter, in the composition according to the present invention can preferably be 1.0 wt% or more, more preferably 1.5 wt% or more, and most preferably 2.0 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount (b) of ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or of ester(s) of the latter, in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less , preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and most preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The quantity (b) of ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or of ester(s) of the latter in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and ideally from 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Aminosilicone)

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (c) at least one aminosilicone. Only one type of aminosilicone can be used, or two or more different types of aminosilicone can be used in combination.

According to the present invention, the aminosilicone (c) may have a degree of polymerization lower than 2000, preferably lower than 1500, and even more preferably lower than 1000.

The degree of polymerization corresponds to the number of repeating units that form a polymer. The degree of polymerization here represents an average value of the degree of polymerization, preferably an average value of the degree of polymerization.

Like aminosilicone (c), any aminosilicone compound in the field of cosmetics can be used.

The term "aminosilicone" here designates a silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or at least one quaternary ammonium group.

As the aminosilicone (c) which can be used in the present invention, the following can be mentioned:

(i) Polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

wherein x' and y' are independent integers such that the sum of x' and y' is preferably less than 2000, more preferably less than 1500, and most preferably less than 1000;

(ii) Aminosilicone corresponding to formula (B):

R'_ToG_(3-a)-Si(OSiG₂)_not-(OSiG_bR'_(2-b))_m-O-SiG_(3-a')R'_To' (B)

in which :

G denotes independently a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, for example, methyl, or a C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy group, for example, methoxy,

a and a' independently denote the number 0 or an integer between 1 and 3, in particular 0;

b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1;

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and, in particular, from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to less than 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being able to designate a number, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

R' independently denotes a monovalent group of formula -C _q H _2q L in which, q is a number between 2 and 8 and L is a quaternized amino group optionally chosen from the following groups:

-NR"-QN(R") ₂

-N(R") ₂

-N ⁺ (R") ₃ A ^-

-N ⁺ H(R") ₂ A ^-

-N ⁺ H ₂ (R") A ^-

-NR"-QN ⁺ R"H ₂ A ^-

-NR"-QN ⁺ (R") ₂ HA ^-

-NR"-QN ⁺ (R") ₃ A ^- ,

in which

R" independently denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon group, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl group;

Q denotes a linear or branched C _r H _2r group, r being an integer between 2 and 6, preferably between 2 and 4; And

A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

A group of aminosilicones corresponding to the present definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" having the formula (C):

wherein n and m have the meaning given above in formula B.

Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones having the following formula (D) or (E):

in which :

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can vary from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999 and, in particular , from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m possibly denoting a number between 1 and 1000 and, in particular, between 1 and 10, and more particularly between 1 and 5;

R ₁ , R ₂ , and R ₃ independently represent a hydroxy group or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy group, at least one of the groups R ₁ to R ₃ denoting an alkoxy group.

The alkoxy group preferably being a methoxy group.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably varies from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and even more preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

The average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably varies from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

in which :

p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number between 0 and 999, and in particular between 49 and 349, and more particularly between 159 and 239, and q possibly denoting a number between 1 and 1000, in particular between 1 and 10, and more particularly between 1 and 5;

R ₁ , R ₂ , independently represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy group, at least one of the R ₁ or R ₂ groups denoting an alkoxy group.

The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.

The hydroxy/alkoxy ratio generally varies from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

The average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably varies from 2,000 to 200,000, more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000 and better still from 10,000 to 50,000.

The commercial products corresponding to these silicones having a structure (D) or (E) can include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones whose structure is different from the formula (D) or (E).

Wacker markets a product containing aminosilicone having structure (D) under the name BELSIL ADM 652.

A product containing aminosilicone having structure (E) is marketed by Wacker under the name FLUID WR 1300®.

Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F):

in which :

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and, in particular, from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to less than 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being able to designate a number, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear.

The average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably varies from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

Amodimethicone sold under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning is a preferred silicone of formula (F).

Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G):

in which :

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and, in particular, from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to less than 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being able to designate a number, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

The average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably varies from 500 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

A silicone having this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning.

(iii) Aminosilicone corresponding to formula (H):

in which :

R ₅ independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and, in particular, a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkeyl group, for example methyl;

R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene group or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylenoxy group, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , connected to Si via an SiC bond;

Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

r represents an average statistical value between 2 and 20, and in particular between 2 and 8;

s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.

These aminosilicones are described more particularly in US Patent 4,185,087.

(iv) Quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I):

in which :

R ₇ , independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and, in particular, a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms. carbon, for example, methyl;

R ₆ independently represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene group or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylenoxy group, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , connected to Si via an SiC bond;

R ₈ independently represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and, in particular, a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group, or a group -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ ;

X ⁻ is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

r represents an average statistical value between 2 and 200, and in particular between 5 and 100;

These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.

(v) Aminosilicone of formula (J):

in which :

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl group;

R ₅ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group;

m is an integer between 1 and 5;

n is an integer between 1 and 5,

and in which x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g;

(vi) Multiblock polyoxyalkylaminosilicone, of type (AB) _n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylated block containing at least one amine group.

These silicones preferably consist of repeating units having the following general formula:

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R- ]

or alternatively

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R' - O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]

in which :

a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably between 5 and 200, more particularly between 10 and 100;

b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;

x is an integer between 1 and 10,000, more particularly between 10 and 5,000;

R" is hydrogen or methyl;

R i independently represents a bivalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ linear or branched hydrocarbon group optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ — group; preferably, R denotes a group CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ - and

R′ independently represents a bivalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ linear or branched hydrocarbon group optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R′ denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ — group; preferably, R' denotes -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mole% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly between 70 and 85 mole%.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution of dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

Mention may be made in particular of the silicones marketed under the names SILSOFT A-843 or SILSOFT A+ by Momentive.

(vii) Alkylaminosilicone corresponding to formulas (K' and K) below:

(K')

in which

R, R' and R" independently represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxy group,

A represents a C ₃ alkylene group and m and n are such that the sum of m+n is preferably less than 2000, better still less than 1500, and ideally less than approximately 1000;

in which :

x and y are numbers such that the sum of x and y varies, for example, from 1 to less than 2000; preferably, x varies from 10 to less than 1500 and especially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y varies from 1 to 100;

R1 and R2, preferably identical independently, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and particularly 12 to 20 carbon atoms;

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched.

Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R1 and R2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably, R1 and R2, which may be the same or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

Preferably, the silicone is of formula (K) with:

x ranging, for example, from 10 to 2000 and, in particular, from 100 to 1000;

y ranging from 1 to 100;

A composed of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular of 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent groups: CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ - and

R1 and R2 being independent saturated and linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.

Mention may be made in particular of the silicone marketed under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

The aminosilicones of the present disclosure can also be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, for example, end groups or side groups of aminopropyl, for example, those of formulas (A), (B) or (C):

In formula (A): the value of n is preferably less than 2.000, more preferably less than 1.500 and most preferably less than 1.000. By way of example of aminosilicone (A), mention may be made of those marketed under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by Gelest company.

In formula (B), the sum of n and m is such that it is preferably less than 2.000, more preferably less than 1.500, and most preferably less than 1.000. As examples of silicone (B), mention may be made of those marketed under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF -8015 by Shin Etsu company.

In formula (C), the value of n is preferably less than 2.000, more preferably less than 1.500 and most preferably less than 1.000. As an example of silicone (C), mention may be made of those marketed under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

Preferably, the aminosilicone (c) according to the present invention is amodimethicone. In one embodiment, the aminosilicone (c) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. In another embodiment, the aminosilicone (c) is aminopropyl dimethicone.

The aminosilicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention include, in particular, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched aminosilicones having a viscosity ranging from 5×10-6 to 2.5 m2.5/s at 25°C, for example, from 1×10-5 to 1 m1/2 s.

The amount of aminosilicone (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, per relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of aminosilicone (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the weight composition total.

The amount of aminosilicone (c) in the composition according to the present invention can vary from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and even better from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Silicone)

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise (d) at least one silicone other than the aminosilicone (c). Only one type of silicone may be used, or two or more different types of silicones may be used in combination.

It is preferred that the silicone (d) be selected from silicone oils.

The term “silicone oil” is understood here to mean a compound or a silicone substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25° C.) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As silicone oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination therewith.

Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter NOLL in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

Thus, the silicone oil can be selected from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.

Thus, the silicone oil can comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

The volatile or non-volatile silicone can be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organo-functional fragment or group.

For example, the silicone oil can be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organo-modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one organo fragment or group -functional chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups or fragments, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl groups or fragments, hydroxyl or hydroxyl groups or fragments, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl groups or fragments, carboxylic acid or carboxylate fragments or groups, acrylic moieties or groups and oxazoline moieties.

If the silicone oil(s) is or are volatile, the silicone oil(s) can be chosen from those whose boiling point is between 60°C and 260°C, for example:

(i) cyclic silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, comprising from 3 to 7, for example, from 4 to 5 silicone atoms. Among the non-restrictive examples of these siloxanes are the octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed, for example, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7171 58 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, KF-995 by SHIN ETSU, and mixtures thereof. Cyclomethicones can also be used, for example those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. It is also possible to use cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula

in which :

It is also possible to use combinations of cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicone, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane and

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicone atoms. A non-restrictive example of such a compound is decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed, for example, under the trade name “SH-200” by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan 76, P. 27-32—TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”.

If the silicone oil(s) is (are) volatile, the silicone oil can be selected from cyclic silicones.

On the other hand, the silicone oils can be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and organo-modified polysiloxanes, as explained above.

The molecular weight of (c) silicone, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups, has an average molecular weight (Mw) of 300,000 or more, preferably 350,000 or more, more preferably 400,000 or more, and preferably 3,000,000 or less, more preferably 2,000,000 or less, most preferably 1,000,000 or less.

According to one embodiment, the (c) silicone, preferably silicone oil, can be chosen from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, for example polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups known under the trade name dimethicones.

The silicones (c) which are preferred in accordance with the present invention may be polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups, such as oils having a viscosity at 25°C greater than 1,000,000 cSt (mm ² /s), preferably greater than at 2,000,000 cSt, and even more particularly greater than 5,000,000 cSt, better still greater than 10,000,000 cSt and preferably less than 50,000,000 cSt, better still less than 30,000,000 cSt, even better still less than 11 5,000,000cSt.

According to the present invention, all the polydimethylsiloxanes can be used as such or in the form of solutions, emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.

Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to such polydialkylsiloxanes include BY22-029 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.); nonionic emulsion of dimethicone oil), BY22-060 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), BY22 -019 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; nonionic and cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with cyclic silicone), BY22-020 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co. , Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with light liquid isoparaffin), KM902 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; nonionic emulsion of highly polymerized dimethicone) , KM903 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting a highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), X-52-2127 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; emuls cationic ion containing a solution obtained by diluting a highly polymerized dimethicone with low viscosity silicone), X-52-2162 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; nonionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with low viscosity silicone), EMU101 (product of Momentive Performance Materials, Inc.; nonionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with low viscosity silicone), XS65-B3803 (product of Momentive Performance Materials, Inc.; nonionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with low viscosity silicone), DC 7-3100 ( product of Dow Corning Toray Silicone, Co., Ltd.).

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes can be chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl siloxanes.

Among the non-restrictive examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes are the products marketed under the following trade names:

SILBIONE® fluids of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; RHODORSIL® fluids of the 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

the phenyltrimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;

BAYER's PK series silicones, for example, the product PK20;

PN, BAYER's PH series silicones. for example, the products PN1000 and PH1000 and

certain GENERAL ELECTRIC SF series fluids, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The organo-modified silicones which can be used in accordance with the present invention include, in particular, silicones such as those defined previously and which comprise in their structure at least one fraction or one organo-functional group linked directly or by means of a group hydrocarbon.

The organo-modified silicones can include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy fractions, optionally comprising C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl fractions, such as the products called dimethicone copolymols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and SILWET® L 722, L 72 and the liquids L 722, L 7500, L 771 marketed by UNION CARBIDE and the copolyol (C ₁₂ )alkylmethicone marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200;

alkoxylated fractions, such as the product marketed under the trade name “SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755” by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

hydroxylated fractions, such as polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxyalkyl functions described, for example, in French patent application No. FR-A-85 163 34;

acyloxyalkyl moieties, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Patent No. 4,957,732.

the anionic fractions of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and the anionic alkyl carboxylic fractions, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkylethyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate, such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names “ABIL® S201” and “ABIL® S255”;

acrylic fractions, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M and

oxazoline moieties

the silicones which can be used in accordance with the present invention can comprise 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). The products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96 and OS-88 can also be used.

Polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups can also be used, for example, those marketed under the trade name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series liquids marketed by RHODIA.

If the silicone oil (or oils) is/are non-volatile, the silicone oil can be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and organo-modified polydimethylsiloxanes.

It is preferable that the silicone oil be selected from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alcohol or phenyl groups pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, polymethylphenylsiloxanes and organo-modified silicones such as dimethiconol.

It is possible to use as silicone oil a combination of at least one volatile silicone and at least one non-volatile silicone. Among the non-limiting examples of such combinations is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, marketed, for example, under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Corning.

It is preferable that the degree of polymerization of the (d) silicone be less than 2000, preferably less than 1500, and more preferably less than 1000.

The amount of (d) silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, per relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (d) silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, based on the total weight of composition.

The amount of (d) silicone in the composition according to the present invention can vary from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and even better from 1% to 20% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of aminosilicone (c)/silicone (d) can be from 0.01 to 5, preferably from 0.1 to 1, and better still from 0.2 to 0.5.

(Water)

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) water.

The amount of water (e) may be 65% by weight or more, preferably 70% by weight or more, and more preferably 75% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water (e) may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water (e) can be from 65% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, and even better from 75% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition .

(fatty alcohol)

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one fatty alcohol (f). Two or more types of fatty alcohols can be used in combination.

The term "fat" herein means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms fall within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched. Two or more types of fatty alcohols can be used in combination.

The fatty alcohol can have the R-OH structure in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be replaced by at least one hydroxyl group.

Among the non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols which may be mentioned are lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearian alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Among the suitable fatty alcohols, mention may be made, in particular, of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, benolic alcohol, oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol can coexist, as a mixture, in a commercial product.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

The amount of fatty alcohol (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight. or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of fatty alcohol (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of fatty alcohol (f) in the composition according to the present invention can vary from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight, and even better from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Triglyceride oligomer of hydroxylated fatty acid and saturated diacid)

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid. If two or more oligomers of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid are used, they may be the same or different.

The term "oligomer" herein means a polymer in which a relatively small number of monomers are bound. It is preferred that the number of monomers in the oligomer be 100 or less, preferably 50 or less, and most preferably 20 or less.

The oligomer (g) of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid can be obtained by the reaction of a triglyceride of a hydroxy fatty acid (such as hydrogenated castor oil) and a saturated diacid. The reaction may be esterification. Thus, the oligomer (g) of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid can be an oligoester of a hydroxy fatty acid and a saturated diacid.

According to the present invention, the diacid is saturated when the hydrocarbon chain of which it consists has no unsaturated group, that is to say a carbon-carbon double bond. The term “diacid” here means a hydrocarbon compound comprising two carboxyl —COOH functions. The diacid can be a single diacid or a mixture of several different diacids.

Likewise, within the meaning of the present invention, the oligomer can be a mixture of several different oligomers.

Among the saturated diacids which can be used, mention may be made of sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelic acid , octadecamethylene dicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid.

More particularly, the oligomer can be an oligoester whose monomers are represented by the following formulas (A) of triglyceride and (B) of diacid:

in which

R ₁ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group comprising, for example, from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _l -, where "l" can vary from 1 to 20 and especially from 3 to 16, for example, from 6 to 12,

R ₂ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _m -CH ₃ , where “m” can vary from 0 to 11 and especially from 2 to 11, for example, from 3 to 9,

And

in which

X ₁ represents a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably representing the linear alkylene group -(CH ₂ ) _x - where "x" is an integer between 1 and 30, and preferably between 3 and 15.

According to one embodiment, l=10 and m=5, and the group

in the above formula (A) represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid (main component of hydrogenated castor oil).

When the diacid is a sebacic acid, X ₁ represents the linear alkylene group -(CH ₂ ) _x - where “x” is 8.

The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer can vary between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.

Thus, the oligomer (g) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid can be represented by the following formula (C):

(VS)

in which

R ₁ , R ₂ and X ₁ have the meaning as explained above and

n means an average degree of polymerization between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.

It is preferable that the following group

in the above formula (C) represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid, and that X ₁ represents -(CH ₂ ) ₈ -.

It is preferable that the oligomer (a) of a triglyceride of a hydroxy fatty acid and a saturated diacid is an oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, i.e. a copolymer hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid.

The hydrogenated castor oil/sebacic acid copolymer is sold in particular by the company CRODA under different names depending on the degree of polymerization.

Among the hydrogenated copolymers of castor oil and sebacic acid, one of them with a degree of polymerization of about 4.6 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL CWS-5" and another with a degree of polymerization of about 9.5 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL CWS-10", sold by Croda Japan K.K.

Mention may also be made of the oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid sold under the name CRODABOND CSA (MW=3500) by the company CRODA.

The oligomer (g) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid can be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3 % by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oligomer (g) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid can be present in the composition according to the current invention in an amount of 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oligomer(s) (g) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid can be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Optional components)

The composition according to the present invention may, moreover, comprise, in addition to the aforementioned essential/optional components, other optional components typically used in cosmetics, in particular nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, colorants, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or plants, preservatives and the like, in a field which does not affect the effects of the present invention .

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the other optional component(s) above, in an amount of between 0.001% and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.01% and 20% by weight, better still between 0.1 % and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Preparation)

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above according to one of the methods well known to those skilled in the art.

The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a liquid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an emulsion.

(Apps)

The composition according to the present invention can be used to treat, for example to treat or condition, keratin fibres.

The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a “rinse-out” type cosmetic composition, better still a “rinse-out” type cosmetic composition for hair.

For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used in cosmetic hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners and the like.

[Cosmetic process and use]

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the following step:

application to the keratin fibers of the composition according to the present invention.

The cosmetic process according to the present invention may also comprise the step of heating the keratin fibers after the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.

The present invention may also relate to a method making it possible to provide keratin fibers such as the hair with a feeling of lightness to the touch and of softness, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.

The application step can be carried out by any conventional means such as an applicator, for example a brush.

The present invention also relates to the use

(a) at least one cationic surfactant and

(b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and dimer of fatty acid or an ester of the latter,

in a composition for the treatment of keratin fibres, in which the amount of ester(s) of polyol(s) (b) and of dimer of fatty acids, or of ester(s) of the latter is 0, 5% by weight or more, preferably 1.0% by weight or more, more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, and most preferably 2.0% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition, in order to improve or reinforce the conditioning effects of the composition intended for keratin fibres. Enhancing or enhancing conditioning effects may include increased keratin fiber strength and greater keratin fiber softness which may provide a softer feel to the touch and easier combing.

The explanations relating to the ingredients (a) and (b), as well as to other optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention can be applied to the ingredients (a) and (b), as well as to the optional ingredients possible in the composition for the aforementioned use.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Example 1

[Preparation]

Each of the hair treatment compositions according to Examples 1-5 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 5) and Comparative Example 1 (Comp. Ex. 1) were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. numerical values for ingredient quantities are all based on the "percentage by weight" of the raw materials.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Ex.
comp. 1 Cetearyl alcohol (and) behentrimonium methosulfate
(INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS-PA-(BR) from Croda) 10 10 10 10 10 10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
(Crodabond CSA from Croda) 2 2 2 2 2 2 Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G, Mw) 6000, from Nippon Fine Chemicals) 0.5 1.0 2.0 - - - Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool G7, Mw) 8000, from Nippon Fine Chemicals) - - - 1.0 2.0 - Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-6 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride (Dow Corning Xiameter Mem-8299 Emulsion) 3 3 3 3 3 3 Scent 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Strength Analysis (Bending Angle (º) 74 81 81 77 80 72 Softness (COF) N / A N / A 0.21 N / A 0.21 0.23 Sensory evaluations Strength N / A N / A 5 N / A 5 3 Combing N / A N / A 4 N / A 4 3

Mw: Molecular weight (Average)

NA: Not available

[Ratings]

(Resistance Analysis)

Two samples of locks (hair locks) (2.7 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each of the sample highlights was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. After shampooing, the lock of hair was rinsed with water. 1.1 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Example 1 was applied to each lock of hair and left for 5 minutes. The lock of hair was then rinsed with running water and then dried naturally under ambient conditions to obtain a treated lock of hair.

The root of the hair strand was fixed on a plate. On the other hand, the braid tip was held and pointed upwards, then the braid tip was released so that the braid tip could be pointed downwards. The angle between the plate and the root of the lock of hair was measured (cf. ). The average value was determined as the bending angle.

The angle of curvature of the lock of hair itself was 71º.

The results are shown on the row labeled “Strength Analysis (Bending Angle (º))” in Table 1. The greater the bending angle, the stronger the hair strand.

(Softness (COF))

Three locks of hair (2.7 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each of the hair strands was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. After shampooing, the lock of hair was rinsed with water. 1.1 g of each of the compositions according to examples 3 and 5, and comparative example 1 was applied to each lock of hair and left for 5 minutes. The lock of hair was then rinsed with running water and then dried naturally under ambient conditions to obtain a treated lock of hair.

The treated lock of hair was placed on a plate, and its root side was fixed on the plate with a hair clip. The softness of the treated lock of hair was evaluated by scanning the lock of hair from root to tip with a sensor (Handy Rub Tester (type TL701) from Trinity Lab) and measuring the COF (Coefficient of Friction). The measurement was carried out 3 times for a single lock of hair treated. The same procedure was carried out with two other strands of hair to obtain a total of 9 results for one composition, and the average values were calculated for each composition. A lower score indicates that a better smoothing effect can be exerted.

The COF of the hair strand itself was 0.24.

The results are shown in the row labeled "Softness (COF)" in Table 1. The lower the COF, the greater the softness.

The compositions according to Examples 1, 2 and 4 were not evaluated.

(Sensory Assessments)

Three locks of hair (2.7 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each of the hair strands was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. After shampooing, the lock of hair was rinsed with water. 1.1 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 3 and 5, and Comparative Example 1 was applied to each lock of hair. The lock of hair was left for 5 minutes. The lock of hair was rinsed with running water and then dried naturally under ambient conditions to obtain a treated lock of hair.

Resistance and combing, after the above treatment with each of the compositions according to examples 3 and 5, and comparative example 1 on the lock of hair, were evaluated by 3 panelists in accordance with the following criteria. The mark designates the result of the evaluation for the lock of hair alone, that is to say without application of any composition.

5: Significantly higher than benchmark

4: Higher than benchmark

3: Equal to reference

2: Below benchmark

1: Significantly lower than benchmark

The scores thus obtained were averaged. The results are presented in the row titled “Sensory Ratings” in Table 1.

The compositions according to Examples 1, 2 and 4 were not evaluated.

(Results)

As shown by the results presented in Table 1, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 5, which comprise both a cationic surfactant and an ester of polyol(s) and of a fatty diacid dimer, made it possible to provide the hair with enhanced conditioning effects, especially higher hair strength.

It should be noted that a flex angle of 74º or more is a threshold to consider for good strength.

Furthermore, the compositions according to Examples 3 and 5 were able to improve the softness of the hair.

In fact, the compositions according to Examples 3 and 5 were able to give hair with better cosmetic effects, in particular easier combing and better resistance of the hair.

The composition according to Comparative Example 1, which includes a cationic surfactant but does not include polyol(s) ester and fatty diacid dimer, was able to provide very limited conditioning effects to the hair, in particular a very limited improvement in the resistance of the hair.

In addition, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was able to slightly improve the softness of the hair.

However, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 did not make it possible to obtain a better perceptible cosmetic effect in terms of combing and resistance of the hair.

Claims (10)

Composition for the treatment of keratin fibers comprising:
(a) at least one cationic surfactant and
(b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer or an ester of the latter,
in which
the amount (b) of ester(s) of polyol(s) and dimer of fatty acids, or of ester(s) of these ester(s) is 0.5% by weight or more , preferably 1.0 wt% or more, more preferably 1.5 wt% or more, and most preferably 2.0 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the cationic surfactant (a) is represented by the following general formula (V):
(V)
in which
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic groups, preferably alkyl groups, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and, optionally, comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens and
X ^- is selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl sulfates and alkyl or alkylaryl sulfonates. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cationic surfactant (a) is selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the quantity of the cationic surfactant(s) is from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the ester (b) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, is selected from esters of
the following general formula (I):
R ₃ -OCO-R ₁ (-COO-R ₂ -OCO-R ₁ ) _n -COO-R ₃ (I)
in which :
COR ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,
OR ₂ O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,
OR ₃ represents a monoalcoholic hydrocarbon residue and
n is an integer between 1 and 15,
Or
the following general formula (II):
(II)
in which :
n is an integer between 1 and 15,
COR' ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,
OR' ₂ O represents a diglyceryl residue of the following general formula (III):
(III)
in which :
R' ₃ represents H or OR' ₃ represents a fatty acid residue,
Or
the following general formula (IV):
HO-R _1' -(-OCO-R ₂ ''-COO-R ₁ ''-) _h -OH(IV)
in which :
OR _1' 'O represents a dimer diol residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dilinoleic dimer acid,
COR ₂ ''CO represents a fatty acid dimer residue and
h represents an integer between 1 and 9. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the ester (b) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, is selected from the copolymer of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/ dilinoleate dimer, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dilinoleate dimer, dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate dimer and mixtures thereof. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the quantity of ester(s) of polyol(s) (b) and of fatty diacid dimer, or of ester(s) of these ester(s), is from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the composition additionally comprises (g) at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid. Cosmetic process for the treatment or conditioning of keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the following step:
application to keratin fibers of the composition according to one of Claims 1 to 8. The use of
(a) at least one cationic surfactant and
(b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer or an ester of the latter,
in a composition for the treatment of keratin fibres, in which the amount of ester(s) of polyol(s) (b) and of dimer of fatty acids, or of ester(s) of the latter is 0, 5% by weight or more, preferably 1.0% by weight or more, more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, and most preferably 2.0% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition, in order to improve or reinforce the conditioning effects of the composition intended for keratin fibres.