FR3113591A1 - Hair treatment compositions containing amino acids - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair treatment compositions containing amino acids The invention relates to compositions comprising (a) at least one negatively charged amino acid and a derivative thereof, (b) at least one positively charged amino acid and a derivative thereof, (c) at least one copolymer of silicone and (d) at least one emulsifier. The invention also relates to packaging systems and kits comprising the compositions, methods of using the compositions. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Hair treatment compositions containing amino acids

The present invention relates to compositions comprising amino acids for treating/healing keratin fibers, as well as conditioning systems and kits comprising the compositions and methods of using the compositions.

Context

Consumers want strong, healthy hair. However, hair can be weakened or damaged due to certain environmental factors and also as a result of mechanical or chemical treatments. For example, exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun can weaken the hair structure resulting in breakage and hair loss. Similarly, combing, brushing, drying, heating, bleaching, dyeing, straightening/waving etc. repeated can damage the hair. Once the hair is damaged, it is more susceptible to further damage and breakage. As such, there is a need for products that can nourish and strengthen hair in order to combat hair damage, repair damaged hair, and impart generally healthy properties to hair.

Certain active ingredients, such as proteins, peptides and amino acids have been used in hair treatment products. However, there are challenges in developing suitable formulations using such active ingredients for the treatment or care of hair. For example, when used as ingredients in hair treatment formulations, amino acids can result in an undesirable feel to the hair, such as a lack of suppleness with stiff, straight hair. Furthermore, although it may be advantageous to include increased amounts of amino acids in the compositions, this may result in unstable formulations. Therefore, there is still a need for hair treatment compositions which can treat hair damage.

It has surprisingly been found that by using a synergistic combination of ingredients, it is possible to prepare a hair treatment composition with high levels of amino acids; said composition is not only stable but also provides benefits such as, for example, stronger hair that is not stiff, soft, healthy-looking hair that is not weighed down.

Summary

The present invention relates to compositions useful for treating keratin fibers such as hair, as well as conditioning systems and kits containing the compositions, and methods for using the compositions. In various embodiments, the compositions can be used to nourish and revitalize damaged hair, prevent or alleviate hair damage, or maintain hair health. In various embodiments, the compositions can be used before, after, or during other hair treatments and rinsed out or left on the hair.

In one exemplary embodiment, the invention relates to a composition for treating or healing keratin fibers, the composition comprising (a) at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof, (b) at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof, (c) at least one silicone copolymer, (d) at least one nonionic emulsifier, the composition being in the form of an emulsion. In various embodiments, at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof may be selected from glutamic acid, aspartic acid, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof, and at least one amino acid positively charged or derivative thereof is selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof. In other embodiments, at least one silicone copolymer is selected from dimethicone, dimethicone copolymers, amino-functional silicones, or mixtures thereof, and in other embodiments, at least one emulsifier nonionic is selected from polysorbates.

In various embodiments, at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof and/or at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to about 10% by weight, based on to the total weight of the composition, and in particular from approximately 1% to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, at least one silicone copolymer may be present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and, in particular approximately 1% to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, at least one silicone copolymer may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and, in particular, from about 1% to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another exemplary embodiment, the invention relates to a composition for treating or conditioning keratin fibers, the composition being in the form of an emulsion and comprising (a) from about 1% to about 3% of at least one negatively charged amino acid, (b) from about 1% to about 3% of at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof, (c) from about 1% to about 3 % of at least one silicone copolymer, and (d) from about 0.1% to about 0.5% of at least one nonionic emulsifier, all weights being by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof is selected from glutamic acid, aspartic acid, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof; at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof is selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof; at least one silicone copolymer is selected from dimethicone, dimethicone copolymers, amino-functional silicones, or mixtures thereof; and at least one nonionic emulsifier is selected from polysorbates. In another exemplary embodiment, the invention relates to methods of treating and caring for keratin fibers, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of a composition comprising (a) at least one amino acid negatively charged or derivative thereof, (b) at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof, (c) at least one silicone copolymer, (d) at least one nonionic emulsifier, the composition being in the form of an emulsion. In various embodiments, at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof may be selected from glutamic acid, aspartic acid, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof, and at least one amino acid positively charged or derivative thereof is selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof. In other embodiments, at least one silicone copolymer is selected from dimethicone, dimethicone copolymers, amino-functional silicones, or mixtures thereof, and in still other embodiments, at least one nonionic emulsifier is chosen from polysorbates. In various embodiments, the composition may optionally be rinsed out of the hair after an optional break period.

In another exemplary and non-exhaustive embodiment, the invention relates to a conditioning system comprising a container containing a composition intended to treat or care for keratin fibers, the composition being in the form of an emulsion and comprising (a) at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof, (b) at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof, (c) at least one silicone copolymer, (d) at minus one nonionic emulsifier. In various embodiments, the at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof may be selected from glutamic acid, aspartic acid, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof, and the at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof is selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof. In other embodiments, at least one silicone copolymer is selected from dimethicone, dimethicone copolymers, amino-functional silicones or mixtures thereof, and in other embodiments, at least one emulsifier not ionic is selected from polysorbates. In various embodiments, the container is selected from an ampule, syringe, tube, packet, pouch, or bottle.

In another exemplary and non-exhaustive embodiment, the invention relates to a kit comprising a first container containing a composition intended for the treatment or care of keratin fibers, the composition being in the form of an emulsion and comprising (a) at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof, (b) at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof, (c) at least one silicone copolymer, (d) at minus one nonionic emulsifier. In various embodiments, at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof may be selected from glutamic acid, aspartic acid, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof, and at least one charged amino acid positively or derivative thereof is selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof. In other embodiments, the at least one silicone copolymer is selected from dimethicone, dimethicone copolymers, amino-functional silicones, or mixtures thereof, and in other embodiments, at least one nonionic emulsifier is chosen from polysorbates. In various embodiments, the first container is selected from an ampule, syringe, tube, packet, pouch, or bottle. In other embodiments, the kit comprises at least a second container, optionally containing a composition not according to the invention. In other embodiments, the kit comprises at least a second container configured to apply the composition contained in the first container to the keratin fibers.

The present invention relates to compositions for treating keratin fibers, the compositions comprising high levels of amino acids, as well as a packaging system and kits comprising the compositions, and methods of using the compositions.

I.Compositions

In various exemplary embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure comprise (a) at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof, (b) at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof ci, (c) at least one silicone copolymer and (d) at least one emulsifier. Optionally, the compositions may further comprise (e) at least one fatty acid compound and/or at least one cationic conditioning agent.

The compositions according to the invention can be beneficial for the hair, in particular with strengthening and binding properties, greater softness, control of frizz, greater suppleness, good protection of the tips, strength, compactness, ease of styling, a feeling of general suppleness of the ends, and/or a healthy appearance.

Amino acids and derivatives

The compositions according to the invention comprise at least two amino acids. Amino acids are simple organic compounds with both a carboxylic acid group (—COOH) and an amino group (—NH2), as well as a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.

Amino acids can be classified as neutral, anionic, or cationic amino acids based on the side chain charge. A negatively charged amino acid, i.e. an anionic amino acid, is an amino acid with a net negative charge at neutral pH, and includes amino acids that have been modified to have a net negative charge. A positively charged amino acid, i.e. a cationic amino acid, is an amino acid with a net positive charge at neutral pH, and includes amino acids that have been modified to have a net positive charge. Non-exhaustive examples of acidic amino acids useful according to the invention include aspartic acid, glutamic acid, or the like, neutral amino acids such as glycine, alanine, serine, threonine, methionine, cysteine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, proline, hydroxyproline, tryptophan, asparagine, glutamine, taurine, creatine or the like and basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine or the like.

In some embodiments, the composition includes at least one negatively charged amino acid and at least one positively charged amino acid. In one exemplary and non-restrictive embodiment, compositions according to the invention comprise at least one negatively charged amino acid selected from glutamic acid, and at least one positively charged amino acid selected from arginine.

In other embodiments, derivatives, analogs and/or stereoisomeric configurations of amino acids may be chosen. Amino acids, derivatives and analogs thereof may be synthetic or natural, modified or unmodified, salts thereof or the like. Derivatives can include, for example, acyl or ester derivatives, salts thereof or hydrosalts thereof. A hydrosalt can be a hydrohalide, such as a hydrochloride derivative.

In various embodiments, the amino acid derivatives in the compositions are acyl and/or ester derivatives, resulting from the reaction of an amino group, carboxy group, side chain functional group, or replacement of any hydrogen atom by a heteroatom. For example, in certain embodiments, the derivatives of the amino acids in the compositions according to the present invention can be acyl derivatives or ester derivatives, which have amino groups (—NH2) of the corresponding amino acids modified by acyl groups or ester groups. In some embodiments, an acyl derivative can be an N-alkanoyl derivative in which the alkanoyl moiety has an alkyl chain length of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, e.g., N-butanoyl, N-hexanoyl, N-ocytanoyl, N-alkyl, etc. An acyl derivative can also be a COO-alkyl derivative in which the alkyl group is a straight chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, for example, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, etc. Other derivatives, such as those with hydroxyl groups, for example 3-hydroxyproline or 5-hydroxylysine, can be used.

In various embodiments, compositions according to the invention comprise a neutral amino acid or a derivative thereof. In other embodiments, the compositions according to the invention do not contain a neutral amino acid or a derivative thereof.

In certain embodiments, the compositions according to the invention are essentially free of amino acids other than negatively and positively charged amino acids and derivatives thereof. Accordingly, in certain embodiments, the amino acids present in the composition may consist or consist essentially of (a) at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof, and (b) at least one least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof.

In various exemplary embodiments, the negatively charged amino acid and/or a derivative thereof, and the positively charged amino acid and/or a derivative thereof, may be present. independently in an amount of about 0.1% or more, such as about 0.5% or more, about 1% or more, about 1.5% or more, or about 2% or more by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In other exemplary embodiments, the negatively charged amino acid and/or derivative thereof, and the positively charged amino acid and/or derivative thereof, may be present ( s) independently in an amount of up to about 10%, such as up to about 5% or more, or up to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

For example, the at least one negatively charged amino acid and/or a derivative thereof, and the positively charged amino acid and/or a derivative thereof, may be included independently in the compositions according to the invention in amounts ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, including all sub-ranges in between, including about 0.1% to about 9%, about 0.1% to about 8%, about 0.1% to about 7% , about 0.1% to about 6%, about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2% , about 0.1% to about 1%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 9%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 7% , about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 3%, about 0.5% to about 2% , about 0.5% to about 1%, about 1% to about 10%, about 1% to about 9%, about 1% to about 8%, about 1% to about 7%, about 1% to about 6%, about 1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 4%, about 1% to about 3%, about 1% to about 2%, about 1.5% to about 10%, about 1.5% to about 9%, about 1.5% to about 8%, about 1.5% to about 7%, about 1.5% to about 6%, about 1.5% to about 5%, about 1.5% to about 4%, about 1.5% to about 3%, about 1.5% to about 2%, about 2% to about 10%, about 2% to about 9%, about 2% to about 8%, about 2% to about 7%, about 2% to about 6%, about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, or from about 2% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The ratio of the amount of at least one negatively charged amino acid to the amount of at least one positively charged amino acid can range from about 1:10 to about 10:1. For example, the ratio of the amounts of at least one negatively charged amino acid to at least one positively charged amino acid, or at least one positively charged amino acid to at least one negatively charged amino acid, can be about 1:10, about 1: 9, about 1:8, about 1:7, about 1:6, about 1:5, about 1:4, about 1:3, about 1:2, or about 1:1. In a preferred embodiment, the total amount of negatively charged amino acids and the total amount of positively charged amino acids is approximately the same, i.e. they are present in the composition in a ratio of approximately 1:1.

Silicone copolymers

The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one silicone copolymer. Without wishing to be limited by theory, at least one silicone copolymer can balance the fortifying properties imparted by amino acids and provide benefits such as suppleness, ease of detangling, discipline, and a silkier overall feel, etc. ., while improving the stability of the emulsion.

The at least one silicone compound can be selected from dimethicone, dimethicone copolymers, amino-functional silicones and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the at least one silicone compound of the present invention is an amine functional silicone.

In one embodiment, the at least one silicone compound of the present invention is an amine functional silicone comprising at least one functionalized amodimethicone. The term "amine-functional silicone" as used herein can mean any silicone having at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group (i.e. a quaternary group).

Non-exhaustive examples of amine functional silicone which can be used include:

a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

where x′ and y′ are integers such that the average molecular weight (Mw) is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000;

b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):

R′ _a G _3-a —Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n —(OSiG _b R′ _2-b ) _m —O—SiG _3-a —R′ _a (B)

Or :

G, which may be the same or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or C1-C8 alkyl group, for example methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy,

a, which may be identical or different, denotes the number 0 or an integer between 1 and 3, in particular 0;

b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1;

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number between 0 and 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being able to designate a number between 1 and 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10 and

R′, which may be the same or different, denotes a monovalent radical of the formula —CqH ₂ qL, in which q is a number between 2 and 8 and L denotes an optional quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

—NR″-QN(R″) ₂

—N(R″) ₂

—N+(R″) ₃ A-

—N+H(R″) ₂ A-

—N+H ₂ (R″) A-

—N(R″)-Q-N+R″H ₂ A-

—NR″-Q-N+(R″) ₂ H A-

—NR″-Q-N+(R″) ₃ A-,

where R″, which may be identical or different, denotes the hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl radical or a radical based on a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched CrH _2r group, r being an integer situated between 2 and 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

A group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by silicones called “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” having the following formula (C):

where n and m have the meanings of formula B.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the silicones of formula (D):

Or :

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5 and

R1, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denotes an alkoxy radical.

In one embodiment, the alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. In other embodiments, the hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. In various embodiments, the average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, especially from 3500 to 200,000.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the silicones of formula (E):

Or :

p and a are numbers such that the sum (p+a) can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250, p possibly designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5

R ₁ , R ₂ , which may be different, represent a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxy or alkoxy radical, at least one of the R ₁ or R ₂ radicals denoting an alkoxy radical.

In one embodiment, the alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. In other embodiments, the hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95. In various embodiments, the average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200,000, even more particularly from 5000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.

Commercial products corresponding to these silicones having a structure (D) or (E) can include in their composition one or more amino silicones whose structure is different from that of formulas (D) or (E). For example, a product containing amino silicones having structure (D) is marketed by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652, and products containing amino silicones having structure (E) include those marketed by Wacker under the names Fluid WR 1300® or Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020®.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the following formula (F):

Or :

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and, in particular, from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number between 0 and 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly designate a number between 1 and 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10 and

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and, preferably, 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The average molecular weight (Mw) of the amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 and even, more particularly, from 3500 to 200,000. A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the brand XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning or sold under the name SILSOFT 253, by Momentive Performance Materials.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the following formula (G):

Or :

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and, in particular, from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number between 0 and 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly designate a number between 1 and 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10 and

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and, preferably, 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even, more particularly, from 1000 to 200,000. a commercially available silicone having this formulation is DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning.

c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):

Or :

R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and, in particular, a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkylenoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₁₈ , connected to Si via an SiC bond;

Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and, in particular, from 2 to 8 and

s represents an average statistical value from 20 to 200 and, in particular, from 20 to 50.

Examples of such amine silicones are described in U.S. Patent U.S. Pat. No. 4,185,087.

d) quaternary ammonium silicones having the formula (I):

Or :

R ₇ , which may be identical or different, represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and, in particular, a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylenoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , connected to Si via an SiC bond;

R ₈ , which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C alkenyl radical ₁₈ or an —R ₆ —NHCOR ₇ methyl radical;

X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt (eg acetate);

r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and, in particular, from 5 to 100.

Examples of such silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.

e) amino silicones of formula (J):

Or :

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group;

R ₅ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group;

n is an integer between 1 and 5;

m is an integer between 1 and 5 and

x is chosen so that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.

f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB)n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group. In various embodiments, such silicones may comprise repeating units having one of the following general formulas:

[—(SiMe ₂ O)xSiMe ₂ —R—N(R″)—R′—O(C ₂ H ₄₀ ) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O)b—R′—N(H)—R—]

[—(SiMe ₂ O)xSiMe ₂ —R —N(R″)—R′—O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O)b—]

Or :

a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably between 5 and 200, more particularly between 10 and 100;

b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;

x is an integer between 1 and 10,000, more particularly between 10 and 5,000;

R″ is hydrogen or methyl;

R, which may be identical or different, represents a bivalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ linear or branched hydrocarbon radical optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a --CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH _{2 radical} ; preferably, R denotes a radical —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ — and

R′, which may be identical or different, represents a bivalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ — radical. ; preferably, R' denotes a —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ —.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent from 50 to 95 mole% of total silicone weight, more particularly from 70 to 85 mole%. The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution of dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2. The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000. Non-limiting examples include bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone copolymer and PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer. Commercially available products include silicones marketed as SILSOFT A-843 or SILSOFT A+ by Momentive.

g) silicone alkylamines corresponding to formula (K) below:

Or :

x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

R ₁ and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and particularly from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

A has 3 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly 4 carbon atoms, and in some embodiments A is branched. The following divalent radicals should be mentioned: —CH₂CH₂CH₂And —CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂—.

Preferably R ₁ and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and particularly 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particular mention should be made of the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; and, preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , which may be the same or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (ceryl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

In various embodiments by way of example, the silicone of formula (K) is chosen so that:

x is between 10 and 2000 and in particular between 100 and 1000;

y is between 1 and 100;

A comprises between 3 and 6 carbon atoms and, particularly, 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched and; more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent radicals: CH₂CH₂CH₂And —CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂- And

R ₁ and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, are linear, saturated alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and particularly 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

An aminosilicone by way of example of formula (K) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone (INCI name), such as the silicone marketed under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

h) silicone compounds with at least one quaternary ammonium group. Suitable non-limiting examples are quaternium 80, quaternium-1 silicone, quaternium-2 silicone, quaternium-2 silicone panthenol succinate, quaternium-3 silicone, quaternium-4 silicone, quaternium-5 silicone, quaternium-6, quaternium-7 silicone, quaternium-8 silicone, quaternium-9 silicone, quaternium-10 silicone, quaternium-11 silicone, quaternium-12 silicone, quaternium-15 silicone, quaternium-silicone 16, quaternium-16 silicone/Glycidoxy Dimethicone Crosspolymer, quaternium-17 silicone, quaternium-18 silicone, quaternium-20 silicone and quaternium-21 silicone. Preferred are quaternium 80, quaternium-16 silicone, quaternium-18 silicone, quaternium-1 silicone, quaternium-2 silicone, quaternium-3 silicone, quaternium-4 silicone, quaternium-5 silicone, quaternium-6 silicone, quaternium-7 silicone, quaternium-8 silicone, quaternium-9 silicone, quaternium-10 silicone, quaternium-11 silicone, quaternium-12 silicone, quaternium-15 silicone, quaternium silicone -17, quaternium-20 silicone and quaternium-21 silicone. Even more preferred are quaternium 80, quaternium-16 silicone, quaternium-18 silicone, quaternium-3 silicone, quaternium-4 silicone, quaternium-5 silicone, quaternium-6 silicone, quaternium-7 silicone, quaternium-8 silicone, quaternium-9 silicone, quaternium-10 silicone, quaternium-11 silicone, quaternium-12 silicone, quaternium-15 silicone, and quaternium-17 silicone. For example, quaternium 80, quaternium-16 silicone, quaternium-18 silicone, quaternium-15 silicone, mixtures of these can also be chosen.

The amount of at least one silicone copolymer that can be included in various implementations can vary, but typically is between 0.1% and about 10%, including all minor ranges therebetween, including d about 0.1% to about 9%, about 0.1% to about 8%, about 0.1% to about 7%, about 0.1% to about 6%, about 0.1% to about 5%, d about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.1% to about 1%, about 0.5% to about 10%, d about 0.5% to about 9%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 7%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 5%, d about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 3%, about 0.5% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1%, about 1% to about 10%, d about 1% to about 9%, about 1% to about 8%, about 1% to about 7%, about 1% to about 6%, about 1% to about 5%, d 'about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about about 3%, about 1% to about 2%, about 1.5% to about 10%, about 1.5% to about 9%, about 1.5% to about 8%, about 1.5% to about 7%, about 1.5% to about 6%, about 1.5% to about 5%, about 1.5% to about 4%, about 1.5% to about 3%, about 1.5% to about 2%, about 2% to about 10%, about 2% to about 9%, about 2% to about 8%, about 2% to about 7%, about 2% to about 6%, about 2% to about 5%, about 2% to about 4%, or about 2% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition

Nonionic emulsifiers

The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one nonionic emulsifier. Exemplary nonionic emulsifiers include:

(1) polyethylene oxide condensates of alkylphenols, for example, condensation products of alkylphenols having an alkyl group containing from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms in a straight or branched chain configuration, with ethylene oxide, said ethylene oxide being present in equal amounts of from about 10 to about 60 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alkylphenol;

(2) those derived from the condensation of ethylene oxide with the product resulting from the reaction of the products of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine;

(3) condensation products of aliphatic alcohols having about 8 to 18 carbon atoms, in straight chain or branched chain configurations, with ethylene oxide, for example, ethylene oxide condensate coconut alcohol ethylene having between about 10 and 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of coconut alcohol, the coconut alcohol fraction having between about 10 and about 14 carbon;

(4) long chain tertiary amino oxides of the formula [R ₁ R ₂ R ₃ N→O] where R ₁ contains an alkyl, alkenyl or akyl monohydroxy radical with between 8 and about 18 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties, and between 0 and about 1 glyceryl moiety and R2 and R3 contain between 1 and about 3 carbon atoms and between 0 and about 1 hydroxy group e.g., methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl radicals or hydroxypropyl;

(5) long chain tertiary phosphine oxides of the formula [RR′R″P→O] where R contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical with a chain length between 8 and about 18 carbon atoms, between 0 and about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and 0 to 1 glyceryl moiety and R′ and R″ are each alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from 1 to about 3 carbon atoms;

(6) long chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing a short chain alkyl or hydroxy alkyl radical of between 1 and about 3 carbon atoms (usually methyl) and a long hydrophobic chain that includes alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxy alkyl or keto alkyl containing about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms, 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties, and 0 to 1 glyceryl moieties;

(7) alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants (eg, alkylpolyglycosides), including APS surfactants having a hydrophobic group with from about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide (eg, polyglycoside) in quality of hydrophilic group; optionally there may be a polyalkylene oxide group joining the hydrophobic and hydrophilic moieties; and the alkyl group (ie the hydrophobic moiety) can be saturated, unsaturated, branched, unbranched and unsubstituted or substituted (eg with hydroxyls or cyclic rings); a preferred material is alkyl polyglucoside, which is commercially available from Henkel, ICI Americas and Seppic; And

(8) polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as those of the formula RO(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n H and fatty esters of glyceryl polyethylene glycol (PEG), such as those of the formula R(O)OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH, where n is between 1 and about 200, preferably between 20 and about 100, and where R is an alkyl having about between 8 and about 22 carbon atoms.

The polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides as described in (8) above useful herein include derivatives of mono-, di- and triglycerides and mixtures thereof. A class of polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides suitable herein are those which conform to the following general formula:

Or :

n, corresponds to the degree of ethoxylation, and is between about 4 and about 200, preferably from about 5 to about 150, more preferably from about 20 to about 120 and

R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms, preferably from about 7 to about 20 carbon atoms.

Polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides may be polyethylene glycol derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil. Such polyethylene glycol derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil include, for example, PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil and PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil.

Other suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides may be polyethylene glycol derivatives of stearic acid. Such polyethylene glycol derivatives of stearic acid include, for example, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-75 stearate, PEG-90 stearate, PEG-100 stearate , PEG-120 stearate and PEG-150 stearate.

Fatty alcohol ethylene glycol ethers, as described above in (3) or (8) above, useful herein include any fatty alcohol ethylene glycol ethers that are suitable for use in a hair conditioning composition. Non-exhaustive examples of ethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols include, the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, preferably ceteth-7 through ceteth-20; the isoceteth series of compounds such as isoceteth-20; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 up to 100; ceteareth 1 to ceteareth-50; the laureth series of compounds, preferably laureth-7 to laureth-12; the pareth series of compounds, preferably pareth-9 to pareth-15; propylene glycol ethers of the above ceteth, steareth, ceteareth and laureth series compounds, such as propylene glycol ethers of the ceteth series of compounds including, for example, PPG-5-Ceteth-20; polyoxyethylene ethers or polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene ethers of branched alcohols, such as branched alcohols, including, for example, octyldodecyl alcohol, decyltetradecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol , and polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene ethers of branched alcohols, including, for example, decyltetradecyl ether POE(20)POP(6) and mixtures thereof.

Other still useful nonionic emulsifiers include polysorbates, such as, for example, polysorbate-20 (POE(20) sorbitan monolaurate) having an HLB value of 16.7, polysorbate-21 (POE(4) sorbitan monolaurate) having an HLB value of 13.3, polysorbate-40 (POE(20) sorbitan monopalmitate) having an HLB value of 15.6, polysorbate-60 (POE(20) sorbitan monostearate) having an HLB value of 14.9, polysorbate-61 (POE (4) sorbitan monostearate) having an HLB value of 9.6, polysorbate-80 (POE(20)sorbitan monooleate) having an HLB value of 15.0 and polysorbate-81 (POE(4) sorbitan monooleate) having an HLB value of 10.0 .

In preferred embodiments, the at least one nonionic emulsifier is a polysorbate. The polysorbate useful herein can be, for example, polysorbate-20, polysorbate-21, polysorbate-40, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-80 and mixtures thereof.

In various embodiments, the at least one nonionic emulsifier may be contained in a composition at a level by weight ranging from about 0.01% to about 5%, including all minor ranges in between, such as about 0.05% to about 3%, about 0.05% to about 2%, about 0.05% to about 1%, about 0.05% to about 0.5%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.2% to about 0.4%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In certain embodiments, the compositions described herein may additionally comprise an additional cosmetic safe emulsifier other than the at least one nonionic emulsifier, or co-emulsifier thereof. Said additional emulsifier can be a cationic emulsifier and/or an anionic emulsifier. Non-exhaustive examples of the additional emulsifier include glyceryl stearate, potassium cetyl sulfate, laureth sulfate, Ceteareth-20, etc.

Solvents

Compositions according to the invention comprise a solvent. The solvent can be selected from aqueous, non-aqueous solvents or mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the solvent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of water. The total amount of water in the compositions may vary depending on the type of composition and the consistency, viscosity etc. wanted.

In some embodiments, the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of non-aqueous solvents, for example, glycerin, C1-4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials or any mixture thereof. Non-exhaustive examples of solvents which can be used include alkanediols such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol , tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, me 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether , ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene ether mono-t-butyl glycol, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono- n-propyl and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin , sulfolane and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the solvent can be selected from the group consisting of one or more glycols, C1-4 alcohols, glycerine and a mixture of these. For example, the solvent can be selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, isopropyl alcohol and a mixture of these.

Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3- butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture of these.

Polyol compounds can also be used. Non-exhaustive examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3- propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propylee-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1, 2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture of these.

The solvent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 60% to about 98% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. For example, in one embodiment, the total amount of water may be between about 75% to about 98%, about 75% to about 95%, about 75% to 93%, or about 75% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional components

Compositions according to the invention may optionally further comprise additional components useful for the hair treatment compositions described herein.

Fatty compounds

Compositions according to the invention may, as an option, comprise at least one fatty compound. Non-exhaustive examples of fatty compounds include oils, mineral oils, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives (such as polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids or propylene glycol esters of fatty acids or butylene glycol fatty acid esters or neopentyl glycol fatty acid esters or polyglycerol/glycerol fatty acid esters or glycol diesters or ethylene glycol fatty acid diesters or fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, short chain alcohol and fatty acid esters), fatty alcohol esters, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin and a mixture thereof. For example, one or more fatty compounds may be selected from the group consisting of glycol distearate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, cetearyl alcohol, soybean oil, cetyl esters, isopropyl myristate, cetearyl alcohol, orbigynya oleifera seed oil, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, mineral oil, undecane, tridecane, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol (ceramide), and a mixture of these.

Non-exhaustive examples of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Sixteenth Edition, 2016, which is incorporated by reference in its entirety in present.

As used herein, "fatty alcohol" refers to any alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or greater, such as, for example, C8 or greater, C10 or greater, and C12 or greater. The useful fatty alcohols according to the invention include, in particular, alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, for example with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms. .

Additional and/or alternative fatty alcohol derivatives include fatty alcohol ethers, fatty alcohol alkoxylates, fatty alcohol alkoxylate alkyl ethers, fatty alcohol esters and mixtures thereof. As used herein, "alkoxylated fatty alcohol" refers to any fatty alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or greater, as defined above, additionally having at least one alkoxy group. For example, the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol can have a carbon chain of C8 or more, C10 or more and C12 or more.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives include materials such as stearyl methyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the series of steareth compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of stearic alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; deteareth 1 to deteareth-10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of detearilic alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl and steryl alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth and deteareth compounds described above; polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylene behenyl alcohol ethers; PPG ethers such as PPG-9-steareth-3, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG8-ceteth-1 and PPG-10 cetyl ether and a mixture thereof.

Furthermore, for example, the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol can be chosen from alkoxylated polymers (including co-, ter- and homo-polymers) derived from alcohols such as glycerol (for example polyglyceryl derived from four molecules of glycerol). The at least one alkoxy group of the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol can, for example, be derived from an alkoxylation reaction carried out with the alkylene oxide. Non-exhaustive examples of at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol include any fatty alcohol comprising at least one polyethylene glycol ether and any fatty alcohol comprising at least one polypropylene glycol ether.

Non-limiting polyglycerol fatty acid esters include those having the following formula:

wherein the average value of n is about 3 and R1, R2 and R3 may each independently be a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R1, R2 and R3 is a fatty acid moiety. For example, R1, R2 and R3 can be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched and have a length of C1-C40, C1-C30, C1-C25 or C1-C20, C1-C16, or C1-C10. For example, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl ester of mono (olive oil fatty acid ), glyceryl dioleate and glyceryl distearate. Further, non-exhaustive examples of nonionic polyglycerol fatty acid esters include polyglyceryl-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl -5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and a mixture thereof.

According to various embodiments, the at least one fatty compound that may be included in the compositions disclosed herein may, in certain embodiments, be selected from liquid fatty alcohols. In yet other embodiments, the at least one fatty acid may be selected from solid fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be selected from combinations of at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol.

According to various embodiments, liquid fatty alcohols are included in the compositions, particularly those containing C10-C34, may have branched and/or branched and/or unsaturated carbon chains (C=C double bond), and contain 12 to 40 carbon atoms.

Liquid fatty alcohols can be represented by the formula R-OH, in which R denotes a branched C12-C24 alkyl group or an alkenyl group (containing at least one C12-C24 C=C double bond), R being, optionally, substituted with one or more hydroxy groups.

In some embodiments, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. In at least some embodiments, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. The liquid fatty alcohol can be selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-ketanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.

According to other embodiments, solid fatty alcohols which can be used include those which are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25° C., 1 atm. The solid fatty alcohols may be soluble, under the same temperature and pressure conditions, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or liquid petroleum jelly) at at least 1% by weight.

Solid fatty alcohols can be represented by the formula R-OH, where R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably still 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even ideally 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Solid fatty alcohols may include lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); tylic alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol) or mixtures thereof. In certain embodiments, the compositions disclosed herein comprise at least one solid fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetyl stearyl alcohol or cetearyl.

Therefore, without intending to be limiting, the at least one fatty compound may be selected from C9-C11 alcohols, C12-C13 alcohols, C12-C15 alcohols, C12- C16, C14-C15 alcohols, C12-C22 alcohols, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, d decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm nut alcohol, stearyl alcohol , tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-heptyldecanol, 2-octyldecanol, caproic alcohol (1-hexanol), alcohol enanthic alcohol (1-heptanol), caprylic alcohol (1-octanol), pelargonic alcohol (1-nonanol), capric alcohol (1-decanol), lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol) or a mixture of these. For example, in one embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol. In one embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol. In one embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is cetearyl alcohol. In one embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol includes both cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

For example, ceteareth-2, ceteareth-3, ceteareth-4, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-8, ceteareth-9, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-11, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-13, ceteareth-14, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-16, ceteareth-17, ceteareth-18, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-22, ceteareth-23, ceteareth-24, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-27, ceteareth- 28, ceteareth-29, ceteareth-30, cetearel:h-33, ceteareth-34, ceteareth-40, ceteareth-50, ceteareth-55, ceteareth-60, ceteareth-80, ceteareth-100, laureth-1, laureth- 2, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-5, laureth-6, laureth-7, laureth-8, laureth-9, laureth-10, laureth-11, laureth-12, laureth-13, laureth-14, laureth-15, lauretih-16, laureth-20, laureth-23, laureth-25, laureth-30, laureth-40, deceth-3, deceth-5, oleth-5, oleth-30, steareth-2, steareth- 10, steareth-20, steareth-100, cetylsteareth-12, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-5, polyglyceryl 4-lauryl ether, polyglyceryl 4-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl 2-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl 2-cetyl ether, polyglyceryl e 6-cetyl ether, polyglyceryl 6-oleylcetyl ether, polyglyceryl 6-octadecyl ether, C9-C11 pareth-3, C9-C11 pareth-6, C11-C15 pareth-3, C11-C15 pareth-5, C11-C15 pareth -12, C11-C15 pareth-20, C12-C15 pareth-9, C12-C15 pareth-12, C22-C24 pareth-33, or a mixture of these may be selected.

When at least one fatty compound is included in a composition disclosed herein, the total amount of at least one fatty compound, in various embodiments, can be up to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of composition. For example, in some instances, the total amount of at least one fatty compound may be from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, about 0.1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 10%, or about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Cationic conditioning agents

The compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one cationic conditioning agent.

In some embodiments, the at least one cationic conditioning agent can be selected from amidoamine (or amidoamine) compounds. Des exemples d'amidoamines qui sont utiles dans les compositions de la divulgation des présentes comportent, notamment, les éléments suivants : oléamidopropyleiquediméthylamine, stéaramidopropyleiquediméthylamine, isostéaramidopropyleiquediméthylamine, stéaramidoethyliquediméthylamine, lauramidopropyleiquediméthylamine, myristamidopropyleiquediméthylamine, behenamidopropyleiquediméthylamine, dilinoleamidopropyleiquediméthylamine, palmitamidopropyleiquediméthylamine, ricinoleamindopropyleiquediméthylamine, soyamidopropyleiquediméthylamine, germamidopropyleiquediméthylamine de blé, sunflower seed amidopropyldimethylamine, almondamidopropyldimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyldimethylamine, babassuamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, minkamidopropyldimethylamine, oatamidopropyldimethylamine, sesamidopropyldimethylamine, tallamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, olivamidopropyldimethylamine, p almitamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine and mixtures thereof.

In certain other embodiments, the cationic conditioning agents can be selected from monoalkyl quaternary amines, dialkyl quaternary amines or polyquaternary compounds or salts thereof.

For example, cationic conditioning agents can be selected from Polyquaterium-10 (also called quaternized polyhydroxyethylcellulose), cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, steartrimonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, hydroxypropyletrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium methosulfate, olealkonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, babassuamidopropalkonium chloride, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, Quaternium-91, Polyquaternium-37 (e.g. under the trademark SALCARE) , Quaternium-22, Quaternium-87, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-67, amodimethicone, lauryl betaine, Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer, protein hydroxypropylhydrolyzed wheat steardimonium, PG-dimonium behenamidopropyl chloride, lauryldim soy protein hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl onium, aminopropyldimethicone, Quaterium-8 and dilinoleamidopropyldimethylamine dimethicone PEG-7 phosphate.

In some cases, the cationic conditioning agents are cationic polymers. The term “cationic polymer” denotes any polymer comprising at least one cationic group and/or at least one group which can be ionized into a cationic group.

In various embodiments, the cationic polymers which can be chosen comprise, in particular: polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28, polyquaternium 32, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium -59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-70, polyquaternium-73, polyquaternium-74, polyquaternium -75, polyquaternium-76, polyquaternium-77, polyquaternium-78, polyquaternium-79, polyquaternium-80, polyquaternium-81, polyquaternium-82, polyquaternium-84, polyquaternium-85, polyquaternium -86, polyquaternium-87, polyqua ternium-90, polyquaternium-91, polyquaternium-92, polyquaternium-94, or hydroxypropyletrimonium chloride guar chloride and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the cationic conditioning agent is selected from Polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-37, or mixtures thereof. Polyquaternium-37 may be commercially available from BASF as SALCARE SC 96 (featuring Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6).

When at least one cationic conditioning agent is included in a composition described herein, the total amount of the at least one cationic conditioning agent can be up to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, in some instances, the total amount of the at least one cationic conditioning agent may be about 0.01% to about 10%, about 0.01% to about 9%, about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.01% to about 7%, from about 0.01% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, or about 0.1% to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Cationic surfactants

In various embodiments, the compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The term “cationic surfactant” designates a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. It is understood that cationic surfactants, if present, may be included in addition to cationic conditioning agents. Non-exhaustive examples of cationic surfactants which may be used include polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salt and mixtures thereof.

As quaternary ammonium salts, the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (V) can be chosen:

(V)

Or :

the groups R8 to R11 are chosen independently from linear or branched aliphatic groups containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or from an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the linear or branched aliphatic groups possibly including heteroatoms such as, for example, oxygen, nitrogen and/or sulfur, these heteroatoms not being adjacent and halogen and

X- being an anion selected from the group consisting of halides such as bromides, chlorides, iodides, fluorides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1- C4)alkyl sulphonates or (C1-C4)alkylaryl sulphonates; C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6)polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkyl-(C2C6)alkylamido, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.

Mention should be made, by way of exemplary embodiments of formula (V), of tetraalkylammonium halides, in particular chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. For example, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (behentrimonium chloride), distearyl-dimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (cetrimonium chloride) or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride can be chosen.

Mention should also be made of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyledimethyl-(myristyliqueacetate)-ammonium halides, such as chlorides, for example the product marketed under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.

In certain embodiments, the cationic surfactants of formula (V) are preferably chosen from alkyltrimethylammonium halides in which the alkyl group contains from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. For example, alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride may be particularly useful.

In other embodiments, quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (VI) can be chosen:

(VI)

Or :

R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,

R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkenyl group or an alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,

R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and

X- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkyl - or (C1-C4 )alkylarylsulphonates.

In one embodiment of formula (VI), R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is marketed, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.

In still other embodiments, quaternary ammonium di- or trisalts of formula (VII) can be chosen:

(VII)

Or :

R16 represents an alkyl group having from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,

R17 represents hydrogen, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a —(CH2)3—N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a) group,

R16a, R17a and R18a, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and,

X- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates and (C1-C4)alkylarylsulphonates, e.g. methyl or ethyl sulfate.

These compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75), marketed by the company Finetex.

In still other embodiments, quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (VIII) can be chosen:

(VIII)

Or :

R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

R23 is selected from the group R26—C(=O)—; groups based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbons and a hydrogen atom,

R25 is selected from the group R28—C(=O)—; groups based on linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbons, and a hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups based on C7-C21 hydrocarbons, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,

r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are integers between 2 and 6,

r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1,

y is an integer between 1 and 10;

x and z, which can be the same or different, are integers between 0 and 10 and

X- is an anion,

it being understood that r2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t, and that the sum x+y+z is between 1 and 15, provided that x=0 when R23 is chosen from hydrocarbon-based groups in C1-C22, and that when z=0 in this case, R25 denotes a group based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbons.

In exemplary embodiments of formula (VIII), the R22 alkyl groups may be linear or branched, and are preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10. When R23 comes from groups based on C1-C22 hydrocarbons, they can preferably contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. carbon. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from alkyl and alkenyl groups. C11-C21 linear or branched. Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Optionally, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and, optional are equal to 2.

The anion X- is preferably a halide, optionally chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4)alkylsulphate, a (C1-C4)alkylsulphonate or a (C1-C4)alkylarylsulphonate, a methanesulphonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or a lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function. The anion X- is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulphate or an ethyl sulphate.

For example, the ammonium salts of formula (VIII) in which R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2, R23 is selected from the group R26—C(=O)—, methyl, ethyl, or C14-C22 hydrocarbon based groups and a hydrogen atom, R25 is selected from the group R28—C(=O )—; and a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be the same or different, are chosen from groups based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbons and, preferably, may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

Among the compounds having the formula (VIII), mention should be made of the salts, in particular the chloride or methyl sulfate salts, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures of these latter . The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated with fatty acids or with mixtures of fatty acids, in particular of vegetable or animal origin or by transesterification of the methyl esters of the latter. This esterification can be followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl halide or an ethyl halide, a diethyl sulphate, preferably a sulphate dimethyl or diethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are marketed, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Evonik.

The one or more cationic surfactants can be chosen, for example, from monoester, diester and triester quaternary ammonium salts, with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group which are described in U.S. Patents Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180. It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride, for example, marketed by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

When one or more cationic surfactants are included in the compositions, the total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) may be up to approximately 15%, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges between these. For example, the total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) can range from about 0.1% to about 15%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.5% to about 15%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 3%, about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 3%, by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

Active Agents

In various embodiments, the compositions according to the invention may, as an option, comprise at least one active agent such as an acid or sodium hydroxide, or a mixture of the latter in order to obtain an optimization of the effects hair strengthening benefits. Non-exhaustive examples of useful acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, mandelic acid, azelaic acid, glyceric acid, tartronic acid, gluconic acid, benzylic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, salicylic acid, trichloroacetic acid or mixtures thereof.

Acids are generally non-polymeric and can have one (mono), two (di), or three (tri) carboxylic acid groups (—COOH). The non-polymeric acids of mono-, di-, and tricarboxylic acids, and/or salts thereof, generally have a molecular weight of less than about 500 g/mol, less than about 400 g/mol, or less than about 300 g/mol.

Non-exhaustive examples of monocarboxylic acids are acid formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, entanthic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecylic acid, lauric acid, tridecyl acid, lauric acid, tridecyl acid, myristic acid, pentadecyl acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachidic acid, lactic acid, a salt of these and a mixture of these.

Non-exhaustive examples of dicarboxylic acids include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, a salt of these and a mixture of these.

Non-exhaustive examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, benzene-1,3,5-tricarboxylic acid and salt of these a mixture of these.

If present, the total amount of one or more acids may vary, but typically ranges from about 0.0001% to about 10%, especially from about 0.0001% to about 5%, from about 0.0001% to about 1 %, from about 0.001% to about 10%, from about 0.001% to about 5%, from about 0.001% to about 1% by weight, from about 0.01% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 1%, about 0.1% to about 10%, about 0.1% to about 5%, or about 0.1% to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of one or more acids can range from about 0.0001% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Thickening Agents (Thickener)

The compositions may additionally optionally contain one or more thickeners (also called thickening agents or viscosity modifying agents). Classes of such agents include, but are not limited to, viscous liquids, such as polyethylene glycol, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers, and copolymers acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate, acrylate copolymers, polyethyleneimines (e.g. PEI-10), naturally occurring polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth gums, alginates (e.g. sodium alginate) , carrageenan, vegetable gums such as xanthan gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, particles associated with colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide and microcrystalline cellulose, surfactants, such as PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide, emulsifiers, such as disteareth-75 IPDI and salts such as sodium chloride, starches such as hydroxypropyl phosphate, potato starch (modified or unmodified), celluloses such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, guars such as hydroxypropyl guar and a mixture thereof.

In some instances, thickening agents may include one or more associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, nonionic associative polymers, and a mixture thereof. A non-exhaustive example of an amphoteric associative polymer is an acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, marketed under the name NOVETHIX L-10 (Lubrizol). Non-exhaustive examples of anionic associative polymers include, under the INCI name: an acrylate copolymer, marketed under the name CARBOPOL Aqua SF-1 (Lubrizol), INCI name: acrylates crosspolymer-4, marketed under the name CARBOPOL Aqua SF- 2 (Lubrizol), and a mixture of these. Associative thickening polymers, for example, acrylate copolymers and/or acrylate crosspolymer-4, can be neutralized in water or in an aqueous solution with a neutralizing agent before adding the polymer to a treatment composition hair. In some instances, associative thickening polymers may be useful in hair treatment compositions without anionic surfactants.

The total amount of one or more thickening agents can vary, but in some cases it ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 20%, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 20%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 20%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Conservatives

One or more preservatives may be included in the compositions described herein for the treatment of hair. Suitable preservatives include, in particular, compounds containing glycerine (for example glycerine or ethylhexylglycerine or phenoxyethanol), benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.), sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, digluconate chlorhexidine, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract or a mixture thereof. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetics industry and include Salicylic Acid, DMDM Hydantoin, Formaldahyde, Chlorphenism, Triclosan, Imidazolidinyurea, Diazolidinylurea, Sorbic Acid, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Quaternium-15, Stearalkonium Chloride, Zinc Pyrithione, Sodium Metabisulfite, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, Benzalkonium Chloride, Sodium Sulphite, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Neem Oil, Essential Oils (various), Lactic Acid, Vitamin E (tocopherol) and a mixture of these. In some instances, hair treatment compositions may include one or more preservatives selected from the group consisting of sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorhexidine dihydrochloride, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, and a mixture thereof.

The total amount of one or more preservatives, when present, may vary. In some cases, the total amount of one or more preservatives is about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 4%, about 0.15% to about 1%, or about 1% at approximately 3%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Auxiliary components

Compositions according to the invention can be in any appropriate form, preferably an emulsion. Therefore, the compositions according to the invention may optionally include any auxiliary component suitable for use in compositions such as emulsions. This type of components may include, in particular, dyes/pigments, polymeric film-forming agents, humectants and humidifiers, fatty substances other than fatty alcohols, fillers, structuring agents, propellants, gloss agents, antioxidants or reducing agents, penetrants, sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, plant extracts, preservatives, sunscreen agents, vitamins, pH adjusting agents and antistatic agents.

Optional auxiliary components may be present in amounts up to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

II Conditioning systems and kits

The invention also relates to packaging systems and kits that include the composition.

Packaging systems

The packaging systems include at least one container suitable for containing and/or applying the composition. The container may be pre-filled with a composition according to the invention, or may be filled by the user at the time of use or shortly before the time of use. The container can be of any size or shape and can be made of any suitable material(s).

In various embodiments, the container may be single-use, eg, containing an appropriate amount of composition for one application, or may be multiple-use, eg, containing an appropriate amount of composition for multiple applications. For example, the container may be a disposable ampule, packet, pouch, or syringe containing an amount of composition suitable for a single application, or may be a single-use syringe, tube, or squeeze bottle, packet, or pouch. multiple containing an amount of composition suitable for multiple applications.

The container has an opening configured to dispense the composition contained therein. In some embodiments, the container has graduated markings or lines indicating the volume of the composition contained in the container. In some embodiments, the container is configured to be reusable and allows the composition to be refilled therein. In some embodiments, the container is configured to be disposable and does not allow the composition to be refilled therein.

By way of non-exhaustive example, the container may be a syringe, it being understood that the syringes useful according to the invention do not typically comprise a needle. In an exemplary embodiment, when the syringe contains an amount of composition suitable for multiple applications, it may have markings or graduated lines indicating the total volume of composition in the syringe and/or an amount of composition to be dispensed for each. application, for example such that a user can dispense an effective or standardized amount or dose of a composition from the syringe with each use. As such, an appropriate amount of the composition to dispense and apply to the keratin fibers can easily be determined based on the volume measured by the graduated marks or lines. Conditioning systems in the form of a syringe can be particularly useful in ensuring that an optimal amount of composition is applied to the keratin fibers with each treatment.

By way of other non-exhaustive examples, the container can be a tube, a jar, a bottle, a packet, a pouch, etc. For example, the container may be a squeeze tube or squeeze bottle which may optionally have graduated markings or lines indicating the total volume of the composition inside the tube or bottle and/or an amount of the composition to be dispensed for each application, such that a user can dispense an effective or standardized amount or dose of a composition from the squeeze tube or squeeze bottle for each use. As such, an appropriate amount of the composition to be dispensed for application to the keratin fibers can easily be determined based on the volume measured by the graduated marks or lines.

Kits

Kits according to the invention may include packaging systems disclosed herein. For example, a kit may include a first container containing a composition disclosed herein. As an option, the kits according to the invention can comprise a second container. For example, a kit may optionally further contain a second container comprising a hair composition other than the compositions disclosed herein, including, but not limited to, a hair treatment rinse composition, a shampoo, a hair color toning, hair lightening composition, hair coloring composition, hair straightening composition, hair straightening composition, hair waving composition or skin care composition or makeup.

In other exemplary embodiments, the kits may contain at least a first container containing a composition according to the invention and at least a second container configured to dispense or apply the compositions described herein. Therefore, in one embodiment, a first container can be a jar or a bottle containing a composition according to the invention, and a second container can be a flexible tube or a bottle or a syringe, configured to be filled with the composition in order to apply the composition to the keratin fibers to be treated.

The container(s) configured to dispense or apply the compositions may, in various embodiments, be disposable or refillable.

IIII Methods

The methods of the invention involve treating, caring for, or conditioning keratin fibers with the compositions described herein. The methods generally include applying the disclosed compositions to the keratin fibers, and, optionally, rinsing the compositions afterwards.

When using the compositions as a rinse-out composition, the composition can be left on the keratin fibers for a certain time, for example from about a few seconds (for example about 5, 10, 20, or 30 seconds) to about 1, 2, 3, 5, 10, 20 or 30 minutes or more.

Alternatively, when the hair treatment composition is a leave-in product, the methods may include applying a sufficient amount of the leave-in product to the hair (wet, damp or dry hair), and, optionally, drying or hair styling. The composition can be left on the hair for any period of time, for example, a few hours or a few days, or until the next washing or rinsing of the hair.

Having described the many embodiments of the present invention in detail, it will be apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the invention defined in the appended claims. Further, it should be recognized that all examples of the present invention, while illustrating numerous embodiments of the invention, are provided by way of non-exhaustive examples and should, therefore, not be construed as limiting the various aspects thus illustrated. It should be understood that all definitions herein are provided solely for the present invention.

As used herein, the terms "comprising", "having" and "including" (or "has", "has" and "includes" are used in their open, non-restrictive sense. The phrase "consisting essentially of limits the scope of a claim to specified materials or steps and those that do not significantly affect the basis and innovative characteristics of the compositions.

In this application, the use of the singular includes the plural unless otherwise expressly indicated. The singular forms "one", "one" and "at least one" are understood to include the plural as well as the singular unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. As used herein, the term "one or more" means "at least one" and therefore includes individual components, as well as mixtures/combinations. Likewise, the term "a salt thereof" also relates to "salts thereof". Therefore, when the invention refers to an "element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof or mixtures thereof", it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more salts of A, salt of B, salt of C, salt of D, salt of E and salt of F may be included or than a mixture of two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.

Throughout the invention, the term "a mixture thereof", including variants, is used, following a list of items as shown in the following example in which the letters A-F stand for the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F and a mixture thereof”. The term, "a mixture of these" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E and F may be included). Rather it indicates that a mixture of two or more elements of A, B, C, D, E and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F and a mixture of two or more elements of A, B, C , D, E and F”.

For purposes of the present invention, it should be noted that in order to give a more concise description, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term "about".

It is understood that, whether or not the term "approximately" is used explicitly, each quantity given herein is understood to refer to the actual value given and it is also understood to refer to the approximation of said given value which would be reasonably inferred based on those skilled in the art, including approximations due to experimental and/or measurement conditions for said given value. All ranges and amounts given herein are understood to include sub-ranges and amounts using any point disclosed as an end point. Accordingly, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%," is intended to encompass the ranges of "1% to 8%," "1% to 5% », « 2% to 10% », etc. All numbers, quantities, ranges etc. are understood to be modified by the term “approximately” whether or not expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of “about 1% to 10%” is understood to have the term “about” modifying both endpoints by 1% and 10%. The term "approximately" is used herein to indicate a difference of up to +/- 10% from the stated number, including but not limited to +/- 9%, +/- 8%, +/- 7%, +/ - 6%, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, or +/- 1%. Similarly, all range endpoints are understood to be individually disclosed, so that, for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of 1:2 and 2:1 .

"Active material", as used herein with respect to the percentage of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material. All amounts given herein are relative to the amount of active ingredient, unless otherwise specified. Therefore, for example, "about 1% to about 3% of at least one silicone copolymer" means that at least the amount of silicone copolymer added to the formulation ranges from about 1% to about 3%, the total amount of a commercial product comprising the silicone copolymer which is added to the formulation can be higher (for example can be from about 2% to about 6% if the product is 50% active ingredient).

As used herein, the terms "applying a composition to the keratin fibers" and "applying a composition to the hair" and variations of these phrases are intended to mean contacting the keratin fibers or hair, with at least one of the compositions of the invention, whatever the way. It may also mean contacting keratin fibers or hair with an effective amount

Unless otherwise indicated, all percentages given herein are by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

As used herein, the term "conditioning" means to impart to hair fibers at least one property selected from combability, moisture retention, luster, shine and softness. The state of conditioning can be evaluated by any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring and comparing the combability of treated hair and untreated hair in terms of combing and consumer perception.

As used herein the term "cosmetic composition" encompasses many types of compositions for application to keratin fibers such as the hair, for example, hair lotions, hair creams, hair cream gels, hair, hair conditioners, hair masks, etc., which can be used as leave-in or leave-in treatments or products.

As used herein, the term "salts" refers throughout the disclosure and may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. . However, this list of counterions is not restrictive.

A "rinse-out" product refers to a composition such as a hair treatment composition that is rinsed out and/or washed out with water, either before or during the application of the composition to the keratin fiber, and before drying and/or styling said keratin fiber. At least some, and usually substantially all, of the composition is removed from the keratin fibers during rinsing and/or washing.

A "leave-in" product refers to a composition such as a hair treatment composition that is not rinsed out and/or washed out with water or an acceptable solvent after the composition has been applied to the keratin fiber. ; on the contrary, the composition can remain on the fibers for a certain time, in particular 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours, up to 8 hours or overnight.

As used herein, the term "stable" means that the composition has no phase separation and/or crystallization for a period of time, for example at least 1 day (24 hours), a week, a month or a year.

The terms "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein mean that the specific material may be present in small amounts which do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions according to the invention. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the composition (provided that the amount less than 2% by weight does not affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions according to the invention Similarly, the compositions can include at least 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less of 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or no amount of the specified material.Alternatively, any components which are positively listed in the current disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims; for example, a claimed composition may "free" "essentially free" ("substantially free") of one or more components that are positively stated in this disclosure. The term "essentially free" or "substantially free" as used herein may equal This means that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material which is included in the composition.

As used herein, the term "surfactants" includes the salts of the surfactants, even if they are not explicitly indicated.

As used herein, the term "synthetic" means a material that is not of natural origin. The term "natural" means a material of natural origin, as obtained from plants, which, otherwise, cannot be subsequently modified chemically or physically.

As used herein, the term "milking" (and its grammatical variations) refers to the application of the compositions of the present invention to keratin fibers.

As used herein, the term "volatile" means having a flash point below or near 100°C.

As used herein, the term "non-volatile" means having a flash point above approximately 100°C.

Examples

The following examples are intended not to be restrictive and to be strictly explanatory in nature. In the examples, the amounts are expressed as percentage by weight (wt%) of the active materials.

Example 1 - Hair Treatment Compositions

The following inventive and comparative compositions were prepared according to the formulations set out in the table below.

INCI name Inventive Compositions Comparative compositions I1 I2 C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 ARGININE 2.0 2.0 0.06 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 GLUTAMIC ACID 2.0 2.0 - 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 PEG-40/PPG-8 METHYLAMINO-PROPYL/HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER 1.5 1.5 1.2 1.2 1.425 1.5 1.56 1.5 POLYSORBATE 20 0.25 0.25 - - - - - - SORBITAN OLEATE - 0.05 - - - - - - CETYL ALCOHOL 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 BEHENTRIMONIUM METHOSULFATE 0.048 0.048 0.048 0.048 0.048 0.048 0.048 0.048 QUATERNIUM-33 0.032 0.032 0.032 0.032 0.032 0.032 0.032 0.032 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 4.74 4.4 3.16 4.74 4.74 4.74 4.74 4.74 HYDROLYZED VEGETABLE PROTEIN 0.145 0.145 0.145 - - - - 0.145 POLY-QUATERNIUM-67 0.4 - 0.25 0.25 0.35 0.4 0.4 0.4 POLY-QUATERNIUM-37 (and) PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE/ DICAPRATE (and) PPG-1 TRIDECETH-6 - 2.33 - - - - - - POLY-QUATERNIUM-10 - 0.4 - - - - - - TRIDECETH-6 - 0.2 - - - - - - AMODIMETHICONE - 2.3 - - - - - - CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE - 0.04 - - - - - - CETEARYL ALCOHOL 4 4 3.5 6 4 4.0 4.0 4.0 CITRIC ACID 0.80 0.80 0.085 0.55 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 CREATINE - - 0.10 - - - - - CERAMIDE - - 0.01 - - - - - ADDITIVES (fragrance, preservatives, thickeners) 1.46 1.0 1.46 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.46 SOLVENT (water + non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS

Each of compositions I1-I2 and C1-C6 were prepared by mixing solvents, cationic polymers and thickeners, and heating the mixture to 70°C. Fatty alcohols and surfactants were added and the mixture was homogenized for 10 minutes before cooling. When the mixture reached 45°C, the remaining ingredients were added and homogenized for 5 minutes, and then the composition was cooled to room temperature.

A visual evaluation of compositions I1-I2 and C1-C6 revealed that the compositions according to the invention had better stability than compositions C1-C6. For example, composition C6 showed phase separation at elevated temperatures while composition I1 did not.

Example 2 – Evaluation of properties and performance

A comparative study was carried out to evaluate the properties and performance of composition I1 in comparison with comparative compositions C2-C6 in Table 1. In this study, the hair of 13 different models were washed and rinsed and an appropriate amount of one of compositions I1 or C2-C6 respectively was applied. The hair was rinsed and dried after five minutes. The properties of the dried hair were evaluated; the results are summarized in Table 2.

Formulation Performance properties/attributes Frizz control Closed tips Flexibility Smoothing Feeling of strong/healthy hair I1
√ √ √ √ √ C2 x X x x √ C3 x X √ x √ C4 √ X x √ √ C5 √ X x x x C6 √ √ √ √ √

In Table 2, when the properties or attributes were observed, a “√” mark is present and when the properties or attributes were not observed, an “x” is present. As can be seen, when compared to the comparative compositions, the composition of the treatment according to the invention (I1) gave overall better performance and better application properties on the hair than the compositions C2-C5, offering the hair better control of frizz, well-closed ends and sensory properties such as a silkier/smoother touch, from root to tip and a feeling of compactness.

Furthermore, invention I1 strengthened the hair as shown by the high tensile strength obtained in the cyclic fatigue test compared to untreated hair.

Based on examples 1 and 2 above, it has been demonstrated that, in terms of advantages/properties, the compositions according to the invention offer surprising improvements compared to the compositions which are not in the invention. .

It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations may be made to the compositions and methods according to the invention without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Accordingly, the disclosure is intended to cover such modifications and variations and their equivalents.

Claims (10)

A composition intended for the treatment or care of keratin fibers comprising:
at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof;
at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof
at least one silicone copolymer and
at least one nonionic emulsifier;
wherein the composition is in the form of an emulsion. The composition according to claim 1, wherein
the at least one negatively charged amino acid or its derivative is selected from glutamic acid, aspartic acid, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof, and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; And
the at least one positively charged amino acid or its derivative is selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and The composition of claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof to the at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof is between about 1:5 and about 5:1. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein at least one silicone copolymer copolymer is selected from dimethicone, dimethicone copolymers, amino-functional silicones, or mixtures thereof and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein at least one nonionic emulsifier is selected from polysorbates and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, based on weight composition total. The composition of any preceding claim further comprising one or more of:

• at least one conditioning agent and present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition;
• At least one fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives or mixtures thereof.

A composition for treating or caring for keratin fibers comprising:

1. The application on keratin fibers comprising:
   1. at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof;
   2. at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof
   3. at least one silicone copolymer and
   4. at least one nonionic emulsifier;
2. The optional rinsing of the composition from the keratin fibers.

A method according to claim 7, wherein

1. the at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative is selected from glutamic acid, aspartic acid, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof;
2. the at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative is selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof;
3. wherein the at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative thereof and the at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof are present in the composition in a ratio ranging from about 1:5 to about 5:1;
4. the at least one silicone copolymer is selected from dimethicone, dimethicone copolymers, amino-functional silicones or mixtures thereof.
5. the at least one nonionic emulsifier is selected from polysorbates.

A conditioning system comprising a container containing a composition for treating keratin fibres, the composition being in the form of an emulsion and comprising:

1. at least one negatively charged amino acid or derivative of the latter chosen from glutamic acid, aspartic acid, derivatives of the latter or mixtures of the latter, and present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
2. at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof and present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and
3. at least one silicone copolymer chosen from dimethicone, dimethicone copolymers, amino-functional silicones or mixtures thereof and present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition And
4. at least one nonionic emulsifier selected from polysorbates.

wherein the container is chosen from an ampule, syringe, tube, packet, pouch or bottle. A kit comprising:
a first container comprising a first composition for the treatment of keratin fibres, the first composition being in the form of an emulsion and comprising:

1. at least one negatively charged amino acid or a derivative thereof chosen from glutamic acid, aspartic acid, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof, and present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and
2. at least one positively charged amino acid or derivative thereof selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
3. at least one silicone copolymer chosen from dimethicone, dimethicone copolymers, aminofunctional silicones or mixtures of the latter and in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
4. at least one non-ionic emulsifier selected from polysorbates.

in which the first container is chosen from an ampule, syringe, tube, packet, pouch or bottle.