FR3113459A1 - AEROSOLIZED COMPOSITIONS, SYSTEMS, KITS, AND METHODS FOR KERATINOUS SUBSTRATES - Google Patents

Abstract

Aerosolized Compositions, Systems, Kits, and Methods for Keratinous Substrates The disclosure relates to compositions for treating, caring for, and/or conditioning keratinous substrates, the compositions comprising (a) at least one vegetable oil; (b) at least one fatty alcohol; (c) at least one cationic conditioning agent; and (d) at least one propellant, as well as systems and kits comprising the compositions, and methods of using the compositions. Figure for abstract: none

Description

AEROSOLIZED COMPOSITIONS, SYSTEMS, KITS, AND METHODS FOR KERATINOUS SUBSTRATES

The present disclosure relates to compositions for treating, caring for, and/or conditioning keratinous substrates, as well as systems and kits comprising the compositions, and methods of using the compositions.

Context

Consumers desire new and improved compositions for treating, caring for, and/or conditioning keratinous substances, such as skin or hair. It is understood that different forms of compositions may provide different benefits, yet may also present different disadvantages and/or challenges, such as, for example, formulation challenges.

For example, hair care compositions, such as hair conditioner and/or hair treatment compositions, can be used before or after the hair has been washed with shampoo and/or subjected to chemical treatment. to enhance or return the hair to its natural shine, shine, and softness, or to improve the feel, look, and manageability of the hair. Traditional hair treatment conditioning compositions can be rinse-out or leave-in cream-type emulsions or lotions. However, while generally considering ease of formulation, certain components in such traditional hair treatment and/or conditioner compositions (e.g. silicones and/or ethanol) may cause buildup on hair and/or may cause hair to appear heavy or heavy, and/or may not provide sufficient conditioning benefits such as smoothness, shaping, and/or moisture effect. Moreover, the presence of silicones in a composition can present difficulties in the preparation of the compositions in various formulations, for example in the form of an aerosolized foam.

It is therefore desired to provide new and improved compositions for treating, caring for, and/or conditioning keratinous substances, such as the skin or hair, which can avoid or minimize challenges in terms of formulation while still conferring benefits on keratinous substrates to which the compositions are applied.

It has now surprisingly been found that aerosolized foam compositions described herein form a treatment, care, and/or conditioning composition which is in the form of a low viscosity fluid emulsion before being aerosolized, which, when It is aerosolized, forms a compact, dense and flexible foam. Additionally, aerosol foam compositions according to the disclosure have been found to be surprisingly and unexpectedly more stable than other aerosol hair or skin care foams, and do not sag. Additionally, the compositions impart improved properties to keratinous substrates relative to traditional care, treatment, and/or conditioning compositions. Optionally, the compositions can be free of ethanol and silicones. Ingredients in the compositions may optionally be sustainable, i.e. from natural and/or organic sources.

Summary

The disclosure relates to aerosol foam compositions useful for treating, caring for, and/or conditioning skin and/or hair, as well as systems and kits comprising the compositions, and methods of using the compositions. In various exemplary embodiments, the aerosol mousse compositions can be hair treatment, care, and/or conditioning compositions, for example, rinse-out or leave-in skin or hair compositions that can be used either before or after other compositions or processes for the treatment or care of the skin or hair. The aerosol mousse compositions can, in additional embodiments, be hair color toning compositions, or compositions for depositing color on the hair. In various embodiments, the aerosol mousse compositions can provide one or more properties such as smoothness, conditioning, ease of styling, and/or moisturized look and feel to the hair. In various embodiments, the aerosol mousse compositions may take into account ease of application and/or distribution of the composition to the hair.

In one exemplary non-limiting embodiment, the disclosure relates to compositions for treating keratinous substrates, the compositions comprising (a) at least one vegetable oil, (b) at least one liquid fatty alcohol, (c) at least one cationic conditioning agent, and (d) at least one propellant, wherein the composition is in the form of a fluid emulsion. For example, the compositions may comprise (a) at least one vegetable oil, (b) at least one liquid fatty alcohol, (c) at least one cationic conditioning agent, (d) at least one propellant, (e) at least one least one solid fatty alcohol, and (f) at least one component selected from direct dyes, pigments, or combinations thereof.

In a further non-limiting exemplary embodiment, the disclosure relates to compositions for treating keratinous substrates, the compositions comprising (a) coconut oil in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5 %, (b) octyldodecanol, (c) at least one amidoamine, (d) at least one propellant, (e) at least one solid fatty alcohol, and (f) optionally at least one additional component selected from active agents, direct dyes, pigments, surfactants, or mixtures thereof, wherein the composition is in the form of a fluid emulsion.

In a further non-limiting example embodiment, the disclosure relates to systems comprising an aerosol device, the aerosol device containing a composition comprising (a) at least one vegetable oil, (b) at least one liquid fatty alcohol, (c) at least one cationic conditioning agent, (d) at least one propellant, (e) optionally at least one solid fatty alcohol, and (f) optionally at least one additional component selected from active agents, direct dyes, pigments, surfactants , or mixtures thereof, wherein the composition is in the form of a fluid emulsion, and wherein the aerosol device comprises means for dispensing the contents of the container.

In yet another non-limiting exemplary embodiment, the disclosure relates to methods for treating, caring for, or conditioning a keratinous substrate, the methods comprising applying to the keratinous substrate an aerosolized mousse composition, wherein the aerosol foam composition comprises (a) at least one vegetable oil, (b) at least one liquid fatty alcohol, (c) at least one cationic conditioning agent, (d) at least one propellant, (e) optionally at least a solid fatty alcohol, and (f) optionally at least one additional component selected from active agents, direct dyes, pigments, surfactants, or mixtures thereof, and optionally rinsing off the composition from the keratinous substrate.

In a still further non-limiting example of embodiment, the disclosure relates to kits comprising an aerosol container containing a first composition, the first composition comprising (a) at least one vegetable oil, (b) at least one liquid fatty alcohol, ( c) at least one cationic conditioning agent, (d) at least one propellant, (e) optionally at least one solid fatty alcohol, and (f) optionally at least one additional component selected from active agents, direct dyes, pigments , surfactants, or mixtures thereof, wherein the composition is in the form of a fluid emulsion, and a second container comprising a second composition for treating, caring for, or conditioning keratinous substrates.

The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated herein and form a part of this specification, illustrate exemplary embodiments of the invention, and, together with the general description given above and the description provided herein, serve to explain particulars of the invention.

Figure 1 is a photographic image diagramming an example of a mousse hair color toning composition according to one embodiment of the disclosure.

Figure 2 is a photographic image diagramming an example of a foam conditioner according to one embodiment of the disclosure in comparison to a conventional non-aerosolized cream conditioner.

Figure 3 is a photographic image diagramming two compositions which differ from each other by the inclusion or exclusion of coconut oil, in a form before being aerosolized.

Figures 4A-4E are photographic images comparing the stability of a foam hair conditioner according to the disclosure with a commercial foam hair conditioner over time.

It should be understood that the preceding and following descriptions are given only by way of example and explanation, and are not intended to be restrictive of any subject matter claimed.

The present disclosure relates to compositions comprising at least one vegetable oil, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one cationic conditioning agent, and at least one propellant. The compositions can be in the form of a low viscosity fluid emulsion before being aerosolized, or can be in the form of aerosol foam compositions. The present disclosure further relates to a system and kits comprising the compositions, and methods of using the aerosol foam compositions.

I.Compositions

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one vegetable oil, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one cationic conditioning agent, and at least one propellant. In certain embodiments, the compositions may be free or substantially free of ethanol and/or silicones.

In various non-limiting examples of embodiments, the compositions may be in the form of a low viscosity fluid emulsion before being aerosolized and when aerosolized, form compact, dense, and/or stable foams which do not don't sag or appear 'airy' or 'whipped'. Aerosol mousse compositions can, in at least some embodiments, impart one or more properties such as ease of distribution, ease of rinsing, flexibility, softness, shine, moisturizing effect, smoothness, conditioning, detangling, shaping, frizz control, discipline, overall hair feel, body, volume, fullness, movement, and/or hair bounce. The aerosol mousse compositions may, in additional embodiments, be useful as hair color toning compositions, or as compositions for depositing color on hair.

Vegetable oil

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one vegetable oil. Vegetable oils are oils derived from a plant, for example, oils derived from seeds or fruits. A high level of vegetable oil, such as an amount of about 1% or more, is typically not included in traditional emulsion cosmetic compositions because oils at this level can negatively impact the stability of the emulsion cosmetic composition. However, the inclusion of a vegetable oil in the compositions according to the disclosure has been found to impart enhanced beneficial conditioning properties to keratinous substrates, and, when combined with other components in the compositions, even to a relatively high concentration, surprisingly allows aerosolization of the emulsion to generate a stable aerosolized foam composition.

Vegetable oils which may be used according to the disclosure include, but are not limited to, coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard oil, camelina oil, stinkweed oil, castor oil, wheat germ, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil , rapeseed oil, cade oil, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise coconut oil. In additional embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure are substantially free of vegetable oils other than coconut oil. Thus, in various embodiments, the at least one vegetable oil may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of coconut oil.

The total amount of vegetable oil that may be included in various embodiments may range from about 0.01% to about 15%, such as about 0.01% to about 10%, about 0.01% to about 8%, about 0.01% to about 7%, about 0.01% to about 6%, about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 4%, about 0.01% to about 3%, about 0.01% to about 2%, about 0.01% to about 1.5%, about 0.01% to about 1%, about 0.1% to about 15%, about 0.1% to about 10%, about 0.1% to about 8%, about 0.1% to about 7%, about 0.1% to about 6%, about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.1% to about 1.5%, about 0.1% to about 1%, about 0, 5% to about 15%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 7%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0, 5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 3 %, about 0.5% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1.5%, or about 0.5% to about 1%, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of at least about 0.1% by weight, such as at least about 0.2%, at least about 0.3%, at least about 0 .4%, at least about 0.5%, at least about 0.6%, at least about 0.7%, at least about 0.8%, at least about 0.9%, at least about 1%, at least about 1.1%, at least about 1.2%, at least about 1.3%, at least about 1.4%, at least about 1.5%, at least about 1.6%, at least about 1.7%, at least about 1.8%, at least about 1.9%, or at least about 2% by weight, such as about 0.1%, about 0.2%, about 0.3 %, about 0.4%, about 0.5%, about 0.6%, about 0.7%, about 0.8%, about 0.9%, about 1%, about 1.1%, about 1 .2%, about 1.3%, about 1.4%, about 1.5%, about 1.6%, about 1.7%, about 1.8%, about 1.9%, or about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

fatty alcohol

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one fatty alcohol. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least two fatty alcohols. The at least one fatty alcohol can, in certain embodiments, be chosen from liquid fatty alcohols. In additional embodiments, the at least one fatty alcohol may be selected from combinations of at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol.

As used herein, "fatty alcohol" refers to any alcohol with a carbon chain of C ₅ or greater, such as, for example, C ₈ or greater, C ₁₀ or greater, and C ₁₂ or greater. Useful fatty alcohols according to the disclosure include, without limitation, alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, for example with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as 8 to 30 carbon.

As used herein, "alkoxylated fatty alcohol" refers to any fatty alcohol with a carbon chain of C ₅ or greater, as defined above, further comprising at least one alkoxy group. For example, the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol can have a carbon chain of C ₈ or more, C ₁₀ or more, and C ₁₂ or more. In addition, for example, the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol can be chosen from alkoxylated polymers (including co-, ter- and homo-polymers) derived from alcohols such as glycerol (for example polyglyceryl derived from four molecules of glycerol). The at least one alkoxy group of the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol can, for example, be derived from an alkoxylation reaction carried out with alkylene oxide. Non-limiting examples of at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol include any fatty alcohol comprising at least one polyethylene glycol ether and any fatty alcohol comprising at least one polypropylene glycol ether.

According to various embodiments, the at least one fatty alcohol is chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those containing C ₁₀ to C ₃₄ , may comprise branched carbon chains and/or be branched and/or be unsaturated (double bond C=C), and contain 12 to 40 carbon atoms. Liquid fatty alcohols can be represented by the formula R-OH, in which R denotes a branched C ₁₂ to C ₂₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C=C C ₁₂ to C ₂₄ double bond), R being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups. In some embodiments, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. In at least some embodiments, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. The liquid fatty alcohol can be chosen from oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1- tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-ketanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.

According to additional embodiments, the at least one fatty alcohol is chosen from solid fatty alcohols. Solid fatty alcohols that can be used include those which are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, i.e. have a solubility in water less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm. Solid fatty alcohols may be soluble, under the same temperature and pressure conditions, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or liquid petroleum jelly) up to at least 1% by weight.

Solid fatty alcohols can be represented by the formula R-OH, in which R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

For example, the at least one solid fatty alcohol can be chosen from lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol); or mixtures thereof. In certain embodiments, the compositions disclosed herein comprise at least one solid fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetyl stearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

Thus, without wishing to be limiting, the at least one fatty alcohol can be chosen from C ₉ to C ₁₁ alcohols, C ₁₂ to C ₁₃ alcohols, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alcohols, C ₁₂ to C ₁₆ alcohols , C ₁₄ to C ₁₅ alcohols, C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ alcohols, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-heptyldecanol, 2-octyldecanol, caproic alcohol (1 -hexanol), enanthic alcohol (1-heptanol), capryl alcohol (1-octanol), pelargonic alcohol (1-nonanol), capric alcohol (1-decanol), lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), or one of them mixtures. For example, in one embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol.

For example, ceteareth-2, ceteareth-3, ceteareth-4, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-8, ceteareth-9, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-11, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-13, ceteareth-14, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-16, ceteareth-17, ceteareth-18, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-22, ceteareth-23, ceteareth-24, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-27, ceteareth- 28, ceteareth-29, ceteareth-30, ceteareth-33, ceteareth-34, ceteareth-40, ceteareth-50, ceteareth-55, ceteareth-60, ceteareth-80, ceteareth-100, laureth-1, laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-5, laureth-6, laureth-7, laureth-8, laureth-9, laureth-10, laureth-11, laureth-12, laureth-13, laureth-14, laureth- 15, laureth-16, laureth-20, laureth-23, laureth-25, laureth-30, laureth-40, deceth-3, deceth-5, oleth-5, oleth-30, steareth-2, steareth-10, steareth-20, steareth-100, cetylsteareth-12, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-5, polyglyceryl 4-lauryl ether, polyglyceryl 4-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl 2-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl 2-cetyl ether, polyglyceryl 6-cetyl ether, polyglyceryl 6-oleylcetyl ether, polyglyceryl 6-octadecyl ether, C ₉ to C ₁₁ pareth-3, C ₉ to C ₁₁ pareth-6, C ₁₁ to C ₁₅ pareth-3, C ₁₁ to C ₁₅ pareth-5, C ₁₁ to C ₁₅ pareth-12, C ₁₁ to C ₁₅ pareth-20, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ pareth-9, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ pareth-12, C ₂₂ to C ₂₄ pareth-33, or one of their mixtures can be chosen.

The total amount of fatty alcohols, or the amount of each of the individual fatty alcohols, in the composition can be up to about 15%, such as from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, based on total weight of the composition. By way of non-limiting example, any one of the at least one fatty alcohol may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 9%, about 0.01% to about 8%, about 0.01% to about 7%, about 0.01% to about 6%, about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 4%, about 0.01% to about 3%, about 0.01% to about 2%, about 0.01% to about 1%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. In additional embodiments, the at least one fatty alcohol may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, about 0.1% to about 9%, about 0.1% to about 8%, about 0.1% to about 7%, about 0.1% to about 6%, about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2%, or about 0.1% to about 1% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range by weight thereof, based on the weight of the composition. Thus, any one of the at least one fatty alcohol may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, up to approximately 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0, 5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 percent by weight to about 10 percent by weight, including increments and ranges included.

Cationic conditioning agent

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one cationic conditioning agent. In some exemplary embodiments, the at least one cationic conditioning agent may be selected from amidoamines.

Non-limiting examples of useful amidoamine compounds are those corresponding to the following formula (I) and their salts:

RCONHR'N(R'') ₂

(I)

in which :

R is a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical containing at least 6 carbon atoms;

R′ is a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, for example 2 or 3 carbon atoms; And

R'' is H or a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms.

In certain embodiments, R is a linear or branched acyclic alkyl or alkenyl group, or an alkyl phenyl group. In certain embodiments, R' is a linear or branched, acyclic alkyl or alkenyl group. In certain embodiments, R'' is H or a methyl group.

Examples of amidoamines which are useful in the compositions of the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, the following: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, wheat germ amidopropyl dimethylamine, sunfloweramidopropyl dimethylamine, amandamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, babassuamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, visonamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmamidopropyldimethylamine, dipropylamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, dipropylamidopropyl dimethylamine , stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

In additional embodiments, the cationic conditioning agents can be selected from monoalkyl quaternary amines, dialkyl quaternary amines, or polyquaternium compounds or their salts.

For example, cationic conditioning agents can be selected from polyquaterium-10 (also called quaternized polyhydroxyethyl cellulose), cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, steartrimonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium, cocotrimonium methosulfate, olealkonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, babassuamidopropalkonium chloride, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, Quaternium-91, Salcare/PQ-37, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-87, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium- 11, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-67, Amodimethicone, Lauryl Betaine, Polyacrylate-1 Cross-Linked Copolymer, Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Behenamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Lauryldimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Quaterium- 8, and dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimethicone PEG-7 phosp haste.

In some cases, the cationic conditioning agents are cationic polymers. The expression “cationic polymer” means any polymer comprising at least one cationic group and/or at least one group which can be ionized into a cationic group.

In various embodiments, cationic polymers that can be selected include, but are not limited to: polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28, polyquaternium 32, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium- 64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-70, polyquaternium-73, polyquaternium-74, polyquaternium-75, polyquaternium-76, polyquaternium-77, polyquaternium-78, polyquaternium-79, polyquaternium-80, polyquaternium-81, polyquaternium-82, polyquaternium-84, polyquaternium-85, polyquaternium-86, polyquaternium-87, polyquaternium-90, polyquaternium-91, polyquaternium-92, polyquaternium-94, or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof angels.

However, in at least one embodiment, the aerosol foam compositions are free, or substantially free, of cationic conditioning agents other than amidoamines.

The total amount of the at least one cationic conditioning agent ranges from about 0.01% to about 15%, such as from about 0.01% to about 10%, about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 4%, about 0.01% to about 3%, about 0.01% to about 2%, about 0.01% to about 1%, about 0.1% to about 15%, about 0.1% to about 10%, about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.1% to about 1%, about 1% to about 15%, about 1% to about 10%, about 1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 4%, about 1% to about 3%, about 2% to about 4%, or about 2% to about 3%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Propellant

The compositions and/or devices according to the disclosure can comprise at least one propellant. In some embodiments the propellant is in the device but not added to the composition, in other embodiments the propellant is added to the composition, and in still further embodiments , the propellant can be in both the composition and the device.

The at least one propellant may be chosen from any aerosol propellant, in particular liquid or liquefiable propellants, suitable for use in cosmetic or personal care compositions. For example, the at least one propellant can be chosen from any liquefiable gas or a halogenated propellant. Non-limiting examples of useful propellants include dimethyl ether and hydrocarbon propellants such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), CFC substitute propellants, fluorohydrocarbons, such as F 152a (1, 1-difluoroethane) or F 134 (tetrafluoroethane), as well as propellants which are present at the pressures in question in gaseous forms such as N₂, NOT₂O and CO₂ as well as mixtures of the aforementioned propellants. In some instances, particularly useful propellants include dimethyl ether, hydrofluorocarbon 152A, isobutane, propane, isopropane, butane, and mixtures thereof. For example, the propellant can be a mixture of isobutane and propane.

The total amount of the at least one propellant may vary. In some instances, the total amount of the at least one propellant may range from about 0.01% to about 10%, such as about 0.01% to about 9%, about 0.01% to about 8 %, about 0.01% to about 7%, about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 4%, about 0.01% to about 3 %, about 0.01% to about 2%, about 0.01% to about 1%, about 0.1% to about 10%, about 0.1% to about 9%, about 0.1% to about 8 %, about 0.1% to about 7%, about 0.1% to about 6%, about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 3 %, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.1% to about 1%, about 1% to about 10%, about 1% to about 9%, about 1% to about 8%, about 1% to about 7%, about 1% to about 6%, about 1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 4%, about 1% to about 3%, or about 1% to about 2% by weight, based on weight composition total. In one embodiment, the at least one propellant is present in an amount less than or equal to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

solv To nt

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise a solvent. The solvent can be chosen from water, non-aqueous solvents, or mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the solvent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of water. The total amount of water in the compositions may vary depending on the type of composition and the desired consistency, viscosity, etc.

In some embodiments, the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of non-aqueous solvents, for example, glycerin, C ₁ -C ₄ alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols , vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials, or any mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of solvents that can be used include alkanediols such as glycerine, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl- 1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono -iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono -n-propyl ether, and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitan, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane, and a mixture thereof.

In certain cases, the solvent can be chosen from the group consisting of one or more glycols, C ₁ to C ₄ alcohols, glycerin, and one of their mixtures. For example, the solvent can be selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, isopropyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1 ,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and one of their mixtures.

Polyol compounds can also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2 -methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, and 2- ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.

The solvent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 60% to about 98% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges included. For example, in one embodiment, the total amount of water can be about 75% to about 98%, about 75% to about 95%, about 75% to 93%, or about 75% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Optional components

The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally further comprise additional components useful for the particular application sought.

Direct colors and/or pigments

The compositions can include one or more direct tints and/or pigments. Including a direct tint and/or pigment can color the composition, or can result in a composition that is useful for toning hair color or depositing color on hair. As example direct dyes, one can choose anionic, cationic and/or non-ionic direct dyes.

Non-limiting examples of direct dyes include nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, or indophenols, and their salts.

As suitable anionic (acid) direct dyes, for example, one or more compounds may be selected from the following group: Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 7, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Orange 4, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2, D&C Brown 1, or mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of suitable cationic (basic) tints include those in the following group: Basic Blue 6 (CI No. 51,175), Basic Blue 7 (CI No. 42,595), Basic Blue 9 (CI No. 52,015), Basic Blue 26 (CI No. 44,045), Basic Blue 41 (CI No. 11,154), Basic Blue 99 (CI No. 56,059), HC Blue 15, HC Blue 16 (Blue Quat Bromide), Cationic Blue 347, Basic Brown 4 (CI N ° 21.010), Basic Brown 16 (CI No. 12.250), Basic Brown 17 (CI No. 12.251), Natural Brown 7 (CI No. 75.500), Basic Green 1 (CI No. 42.040), Basic Red 2 (CI No. ° 50.240), Basic Red 22 (CI No. 11.055), Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76 (CI No. 12.245), Basic Violet 1 (CI No. 42.535), Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3 (CI No. 42.555 ), Basic Violet 10 (CI No. 45,170), Basic Violet 14 (CI No. 42,510), Basic Yellow 57 (CI No. 12,719), Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, or mixtures thereof.

Examples of non-ionic direct tints can be chosen from the following group: HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3 , HC Red 7, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, HC Blue 15, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2 -hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid, 4 -[(3-hydroxypropyl)amino]-3-nitrophenol, 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, N,N'′-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro- p-phenylenediamine, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol, or mixtures thereof.

As non-limiting examples of pigments, mica, carbon black, titanium oxide, chromium oxide, D&C or FD&C type pigments and their lakes, such as D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, FD&C Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, FD&C Red No. 4, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Red 40 lake, D&C Violet No. 2, FD & C Blue No. 1, D&C Yellow N ° 6, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Yellow No. 7, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, or D&C Yellow No. 11, and mixtures thereof, may be selected.

If present, the at least one spot dye and/or pigment may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight, such as about 0.01% to about 10%, about 0.1% to about 10%, about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 5 %, about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.01% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 3 %, about 0.01% to about 2.5%, about 0.1% to about 2.5%, about 0.01% to about 2%, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.01 % to about 1.5%, about 0.1% to about 1.5%, about 0.01% to about 1%, or about 0.1% to about 1% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

Active Agents

In various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise at least one active agent such as an acid or sodium hydroxide, or a mixture thereof, to impart optimized strengthening benefits to the hair. Non-limiting examples of useful acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, mandelic acid, azelaic acid, glyceric acid, tartronic acid, gluconic acid, benzylic acid, pyruvic acid, acid 2 -hydroxybutyric, salicylic acid, trichloroacetic acid, or mixtures thereof.

The acids are typically non-polymeric and can have one (mono), two (di), or three (tri) carboxylic acid groups (—COOH). Nonpolymeric mono, di, and tricarboxylic acids, and/or their salts, typically have a molecular weight of less than about 500 g/mol, less than about 400 g/mol, or less than about 300 g/mol .

Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, entanthic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecyl acid, lauric acid, tridecyl acid, lauric acid , tridecyl acid, myristic acid, pentadecyl acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachidic acid, lactic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid , isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, benzene-1,3,5-tricarboxylic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof .

If present, the total amount of the one or more acids may vary but typically ranges from about 0.0001% to about 10%, such as from about 0.0001% to about 5%, about 0.0001% to about 1%, about 0.001% to about 10%, about 0.001% to about 5%, about 0.001% to about 1% by weight, about 0.01% to about 10%, about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 1%, about 0.1% to about 10%, about 0.1% to about 5%, or about 0.1% to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of the one or more acids can range from about 0.0001% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants

In various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise at least one surfactant chosen from cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

The expression “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. It is understood that cationic surfactants, if present, may be included in addition to cationic conditioning agents. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants that can be used include polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

As quaternary ammonium salts, the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II) can be chosen:

(II)

in which :

the groups R8 to R11 are independently chosen from linear or branched aliphatic groups containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, knowing that it is possible for the linear or branched aliphatic groups to include heteroatoms such as, for example, oxygen, nitrogen, and/or sulfur, these heteroatoms not being not adjacent, and halogens; And

X ^- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides such as bromides, chlorides, iodides, fluorides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfates, alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfonates or alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) aryl sulfonates; C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C ₂ -C ₆ ), C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl amide, alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )-alkyl (C ₂ C ₆ ) amido, alkyl (C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ ) acetate, and hydroxy C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl.

Mention may also be made by way of example of embodiments of formula (II) of tetraalkylammonium halides, such as chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms , such as 14 to 20 carbon atoms. By way of example, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (behenetrimomium chloride), distearyl-dimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (cetrimonium chloride), or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride can be chosen.

Mention may also be made of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium halides, such as chlorides, for example the product sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.

In certain embodiments, the cationic surfactants of formula (II) are preferably chosen from alkyltrimethylammonium halides in which the alkyl group includes from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 14 to 20 carbon atoms, can be chosen. For example, alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, may be particularly useful.

In additional embodiments, quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (III) can be chosen:

(III)

in which :

R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,

R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

R14 represents a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group,

R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group, and

X ^- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfates, and alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) arylsulphonates.

In an exemplary embodiment of formula (III), R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.

In still additional embodiments, di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) can be chosen:

(IV)

in which :

R16 represents an alkyl group comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

R17 represents hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a group —(CH2)3—N ⁺ (R16a)(R17a)(R18a),

R16a, R17a and R18a, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

R18, R19, R20, and R21, which may be the same or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

X ^- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfates, and alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ )- and alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) arylsulphonates, for example methyl sulphate or ethyl sulphate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75), sold by the company Finetex.

In still additional embodiments, quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (V) can be chosen:

(V)

in which :

R22 is chosen from C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

R23 is selected from the group R26—C(=O)—; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ to C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups; and a hydrogen atom,

R25 is selected from the group R28—C(=O)—; groups based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ to C ₆ hydrocarbons; and a hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₇ to C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups,

r, s and t, which can be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,

r1 and t1, which can be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1,

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,

x and z, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, and

X ^- is an anion,

knowing that r2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t, and that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0, then R23 is chosen from the hydrocarbon-based groups in C ₁ to C ₂₂ , and that when z = 0, then R25 denotes a group based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ to C ₆ hydrocarbon.

In exemplary embodiments of formula (V), the R22 alkyl groups may be linear or branched, and are preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10. When R23 is a group based on a C ₁ to C ₂₂ hydrocarbon, it can preferably comprise either from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₁ to C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from C 11 to C 21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. ₁₁ to C ₂₁ linear or branched. Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Optionally, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s, and t, which may be the same or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and optionally are equal to 2.

The anion X ^- is preferably a halide, optionally chloride, bromide, or iodide, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl sulfate, a ( _{C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl sulfonate, or a (C 1} to C ₄ ) alkyl to C ₄ ) arylsulphonate, a methanesulphonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with the ammonium carrying an ester function . The anion X ⁻ is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulphate, or an ethyl sulphate.

For example, the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2, R23 is selected from the group R26—C(=O)—, methyl, ethyl, or C ₁₄ to C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups; and a hydrogen atom, R25 is selected from the group R28—C(=O)—; and a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be the same or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃ to C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from the groups linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃ to C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl may be chosen. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (V), mention may be made of salts, in particular chloride or methyl sulphate, diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids, in particular of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their esters of methyl. This esterification can be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate , methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Evonik.

The one or more cationic surfactants can be chosen from, for example, a mixture of monoester, diester and triester quaternary ammonium salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. Use may also be made of ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, which are described in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180. Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride, for example example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

In certain embodiments according to the disclosure, for example skin cleansing compositions, the compositions may comprise one or more anionic surfactants. The expression "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups can optionally be chosen from the groups CO ₂ H, CO ₂ ^- , SO ₃ H, SO ₃ ^- , OSO ₃ H, OSO ₃ ^- O ₂ PO ₂ H, O ₂ PO ₂ H and O ₂ PO ₂ ^{2 -} .

Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, acyl isethionates, acyl glycinates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and mixtures thereof, wherein the alkyl groups and acyl of all these compounds comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. In some cases, sulfate anionic surfactants may be excluded from the one or more anionic surfactants. In such cases, the one or more anionic surfactants may be selected from the group consisting of acyl isethionates, acyl glycinates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and mixtures thereof, wherein the alkyl groups and acyl of all these compounds comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

The anionic surfactant(s) which may be used may be alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkylamide sulphonates , alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, and salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group designating a phenyl group. Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. For example, the anionic surfactant can be chosen from sodium olefin sulphonates, for example sodium C ₁₄ to C ₁₆ olefin sulphonate.

The salts of C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from polyglycoside-C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl citrates, polyglycoside-C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl tartrates, and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-sulfo succinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) in the form of a salt, it (they) can be chosen in particular from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt. and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, or alkaline-earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.

Examples of amino alcohol salts which may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium or magnesium salts, can be used.

It is also possible to use alkyl (C ₆ to C ₂₄ ) sulfates, alkyl (C ₆ to C ₂₄ ) ether sulfates, which are optionally ethoxylated, comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and a mixture of these, in particular in the form of alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts. In certain embodiments, the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from (C ₁₀ to C ₂₀ )alkyl ether sulphates, for example sodium lauryl ether sulphate.

The useful nonionic surfactant(s) can be, for example, chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated , propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, knowing that it is possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups ranges from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as 1.5 to 4; sorbitan ethoxylated fatty acid esters comprising 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol alkyl (C ₆ to C ₂₄ ) polyglycosides; derivatives of N-alkyl (C ₆ to C ₂₄ ) glucamine, amine oxides such as alkyl (C ₁₀ to C ₁₄ ) amine oxides or N-acyl (C ₁₀ to C ₁₄ ) aminopropylmorpholine oxides ; and a mixture thereof.

The nonionic surfactants can optionally be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are optionally oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a mixture thereof. Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants which may be mentioned include: oxyalkylenated (C ₈ to C ₂₄ ) alkylphenols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C ₈ to C ₃₀ alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or amides, C ₈ to C ₃₀ oxyalkylenated amides, esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols, polyoxyalkylenated esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oils and sorbitol, oxyalkylenated, saturated or unsaturated vegetable oils, ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates, among others, alone or in mixtures.

As examples of polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, polyglycerolated C ₈ to C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used. In particular, polyglycerolated C ₈ to C ₄₀ alcohols correspond to the following formula (VI):

RO-[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₂ OH)-O] _m -H or RO-[CH(CH ₂ OH)-CH ₂ O] _m -H

(VI)

in which R represents a C ₈ to C ₄₀ and preferably C ₈ to C ₃₀ linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30, and preferably from 1.5 to 10.

As examples of compounds which are suitable in the context of the invention, mention may also be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

According to one embodiment, the nonionic surfactant can be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their derivatives alkoxylated, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a C ₈ to C ₂₄ fatty acid or acids, preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C ₈ to C ₂₄ fatty acid or acids, preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of a C ₈ to C ₂₄ fatty acid or acids, preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and of more preferably from 10 to 100; sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) esters of a C ₈ to C ₂₄ fatty acid or acids, preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; ethers of sugar and of a fatty alcohol or of C ₈ to C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ ; and a mixture thereof.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 18.0 or less, such as 4.0 to 18.0, more preferably 6.0 to 15.0 and greater than preferably 9.0 to 13.0. The HLB is the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.

In some cases, the nonionic surfactant is a fatty alkanolamide. Non-limiting examples of fatty alkanolamides that can be used include cocamide MEA, cocamide DEA, sojamide DEA, lauramide DEA, oleamide MIPA, stearamide MEA, myristamide DEA, stearamide DEA, oleylamide DEA, sulfonamide DEA lauramide MIPA, sulfonamide MEA, isostearamide DEA, isostearamide MEA, or mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants useful in the compositions include, for example, optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said derivatives amine containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may in particular be made of alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amidoalkyl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) betaines , such as cocamido-propylbetaine, and alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amido alkyl (C ₁ to C ₆ ) sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof. For example, mention may be made of compounds classified under the INCI names sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate, and sodium capryloamphoacetate.

Other compounds one can choose from include disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Examples which may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate, the sodium cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name commercial CHIMEXANE HA. In certain exemplary embodiments, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines such as that known under the INCI names coco-betaine, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl amido alkyl ( C ₁ to C ₆ ) betaines such as that known by the INCI name cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

If present, the total amount of the one or more surfactants may range from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges included. For example, the total amount of the one or more surfactants can range from about 0.001% to about 5%, such as about 0.001% to about 4%, about 0.001% to about 3%, about 0.001% to about 2% , about 0.001% to about 1%, about 0.001% to about 0.5%, about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 4%, about 0.01% to about 3%, about 0.01% to about 2%, about 0.01% to about 1%, about 0.01% to about 0.5%, about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4% , about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.1% to about 1%, or about 0.1% to about 0.5%, by weight, based on weight total of the hair treatment composition.

The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise any auxiliary component suitable for use in cosmetic compositions. Such components may include, but are not limited to, tints/pigments in addition to those listed above, ceramides, thickening agents, film-forming agents or polymers, humectants and moisturizing agents, fatty substances other than fatty alcohols, emulsifying agents , fillers, structuring agents, propellants, glossing agents, antioxidants or reducing agents, penetrants, sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, plant extracts, volatile or non-volatile, modified or unmodified silicones, preservatives, opacifiers, agents sunscreen, vitamins, pH adjusting agents, and antistatic agents. In some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of silicones.

Optional auxiliary components may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.0001% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

II. Systems and kits

Embodiments of the present disclosure further provide systems and kits comprising any of the compositions described herein. In various embodiments, the systems and kits include an aerosol device containing a low viscosity composition comprising vegetable oil, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one cationic conditioning agent, and at least one propellant, and a dispensing means for dispensing the contents of the container, such as a diffuser or a spray device which the user can squeeze to release the product. In the aerosol device, the composition is generally in the form of a low viscosity fluid emulsion, also referred to as "juice" or "juice phase", suitable for forming a foam when aerosolized. As such, aerosol devices comprising compositions according to the disclosure are also disclosed.

Various aerosol devices may be employed for use according to the disclosure. By way of non-limiting example, typical aerosol hair spray devices expel the juice phase as a mist of dispersed droplets. The juice phase is primarily comprised of the styling compositions of this disclosure, excluding the propellant(s). Small amounts of propellant(s) or other materials from the vapor phase may be added to the juice phase, for example, these components may be partially dispersed or solubilized in the juice phase. Similarly, the vapor phase is mainly composed of propellant(s). Small amounts of juice phase (or juice phase components) may be present in the vapor phase as the juice phase (or juice phase components) is (are) dispersed. or dissolved in the vapor phase. In the systems and kits according to the disclosure, the aerosol device can be any type of container or canister that is configured to dispense its liquid contents in the form of a foam. Such a container or box can be of any size, color, or shape. For example, a system or kit as disclosed herein can be any container or box containing a composition according to the disclosure, and fitted with a nozzle designed to aerosolize the composition to form a foam. The container or box may include a button to trigger or control the dispensing of the aerosol contained therein. Aerosol containers can also be made of any material suitable for cosmetic use.

The total amount of propellant used in an aerosol device according to the disclosure may vary. In some instances, an aerosol device may include propellant in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 95%, based on the total weight of the hair and propellant compositions (i.e., the total weight of the contents at inside the aerosol device). In some instances, the total amount of propellant may be about 1% to about 90%, about 1% to about 50%, about 1% to about 20%, about 5% to about 90%, about 5% to about 50%, or about 5% to about 20% by weight. For example, the aerosol device may include a propellant in an amount of about 5%, such as about 6%, and a juice phase in an amount of about 95%, such as about 94%, based on the total weight of juice phase and propellant.

Kits according to the disclosure may include an aerosol device as disclosed herein. For example, a kit can include an aerosol device containing a low viscosity composition comprising a vegetable oil, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one cationic conditioning agent, and at least one propellant. In various embodiments, a kit may comprise an aerosol device comprising a composition according to the disclosure, and one or more skin or hair treatment compositions housed in a separate container. For example, the one or more hair treatment compositions housed in a separate container may include, but are not limited to, hair treatment rinse, shampoo, hair color toning composition, a hair lightening composition, a hair coloring composition, a hair straightening composition, a hair straightening composition, or a hair waving composition.

III. Processes

The methods of the disclosure include treating, caring for, or conditioning keratinous substrates with the compositions described herein. The methods generally include applying any of the disclosed compositions to keratinous substrates, for example hair or skin, and optionally rinsing the compositions afterwards.

By way of non-limiting example, the methods may include using the compositions as a hair conditioner, a hair pre- or post-treatment, a rinse-out or leave-in hair mask treatment, or the like. For example, the composition can be a leave-in or leave-in hair conditioner, and the methods can be directed to conditioning the hair by applying the aerosolized compositions to the hair. As additional examples, the methods can include using the compositions as a leave-in or leave-in hair color toning mousse.

Without limitation, methods of treating hair according to the disclosure can include applying an aerosol mousse composition according to the disclosure to hair (wet, damp, or dry), leaving the composition on the hair for a desired duration, and optionally rinsing the composition out of the hair. The composition can be applied to the hair before, during, or after other hair compositions (eg, shampoo, conditioner, mask, cream, lotion, gel, other chemical treatment, etc.). If desired, the hair can be heated while the composition is on the hair.

In still further embodiments, the methods may include using the compositions disclosed herein for skin care or treatment. In certain embodiments, the methods include using the compositions disclosed herein to cleanse, care for, or moisturize the skin. The methods can include applying an aerosol foam composition according to the disclosure to the skin, leaving the composition on the skin for a desired time, and optionally rinsing the composition off the skin.

When using the compositions as a composition to be rinsed off, the composition can be left on the keratinous substrate (for example the skin or the hair) for any desired duration, for example for approximately a few seconds (for example approximately 10, 20, or 30 seconds) to about 1, 2, 3, 5, 10, 20, or 30 minutes, or more.

Having described the many embodiments of the present invention in detail, it will be apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the invention defined in the appended claims. Further, it should be appreciated that all of the examples in this disclosure, while illustrating many embodiments of the invention, are provided by way of non-limiting examples and therefore should not be construed as limiting the various aspects thus illustrated. It should be understood that all definitions herein are provided for this disclosure only.

As used herein, the terms "comprising", "having", and "including" (or "understanding", "having", and "including") are used in their broad non-limiting sense. The phrase "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to specified materials or steps and to those which do not materially affect the basic and novel features of the compositions.

The term “one or more” means “at least one” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations. Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof", it indicates that a or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E , and a salt of F may be included.

Throughout the disclosure, if the phrase "a mixture thereof", including variants, is used, following a list of items as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, or mixtures thereof”. The term, "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E , and F can be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of any two of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more items selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of any two of A, B, C, D, E, and F”.

For the purposes of this disclosure, it should be noted that in order to provide a more concise description, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term "about". It is understood that regardless of whether the term "approximately" is used explicitly or not, each quantity given herein is meant to refer to the actual given value, and also meant to refer to the approximation of such given value which would reasonably be inferred by ordinary skill in the art, including approximations due to experimental and/or measurement conditions for such given value. All ranges and quantities given herein are intended to include sub-ranges and quantities using any point disclosed as an endpoint. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%", is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%" , “2% to 10%”, and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc., are deemed to be modified by the term "approximately", whether or not expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of "about 1% to 10%" is meant to be such that the term "about" changes the two endpoints by 1% and 10%. The term "approximately" is used here to indicate a difference of up to +/- 10% from the stated number, such as +/- 9%, +/- 8%, +/- 7%, +/- 6%, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, or +/- 1%. Likewise, all endpoints of the ranges are intended to be individually disclosed, such that, for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is intended to disclose a ratio of both 1:2 and 2:1.

"Active Ingredient" as used herein in relation to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.

As used herein, the expressions "application of a composition to keratinous fibers" and "application of a composition to the hair" and variations of these expressions are intended to mean bringing the keratinous fibers or the hair into contact, with at least one of the compositions of the invention, in any way. It can also mean contacting keratinous fibers or hair in an effective amount.

Unless otherwise indicated, all percentages herein are by weight, based on the weight of the total composition.

As used herein, "cosmetic composition" encompasses many types of compositions for application to keratinous materials such as skin or hair, for example, hair lotions, hair creams, hair gel creams, hair conditioners , hair masks (masks), etc., which can be used as treatments or products with or without rinsing.

As used herein, the term "organic" means material that is produced substantially without or substantially without the use of synthetic materials. The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that the specific material may be used in a manufacturing process in small quantities which do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions according to the disclosure. The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not used in a manufacturing process but may still be present in a raw material which is included in the composition.

As used herein, "salts" referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions is however not limiting.

As used herein, the term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that the specific material may be present in small amounts which do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions according to disclosure. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount of less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the characteristics and novel compositions of the disclosure Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less of 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or none of the specified material.In addition, any components which are positively presented in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components which are positively presented in the present disclosure. The expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein can also mean that my specific ingredient is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material that is included in the composition.

As used herein, the term "surfactants" includes salts of the surfactants even though they are not explicitly stated.

As used herein, the term "synthetic" means a material that is not of natural origin. The term "natural" means a material of natural origin, such as derived from plants, which also cannot be further modified chemically or physically.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the examples, amounts are expressed as percentage by weight (% wt) of active materials.

Example 1 – Hair conditioner compositions

The three inventive hair compositions and two comparative hair compositions were prepared according to the formulations shown in Table 1 below.

INCI NAME Composition 1A
(inventive composition) Composition 41B
(inventive composition) Composition 1C
(inventive composition) 1D composition
(comparative composition) Composition 1E
(comparative composition) SURFACTANT
(glyceryl stearate) 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.15 0.15 CATIONIC CONDITIONING AGENT (brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine) 2.35 2.35 2.35 2.50 2.50 LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOL
(octyldodecanol) 0.47 0.47 0.47 0.50 0.50 SOLID FATTY ALCOHOL
(cetearyl alcohol) 2.82 2.82 2.82 3.00 3.00 PROPELLANTS
(propane + isobutane) 6.00 6.00 6.00 - - COCOS NUCIFERA
(COCONUT) OIL 0.94 0.94 0.94 1.00 1.00 ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS
(plant extracts, preservatives, vitamins, thickeners, fragrances, pigments) 0.99 1.46 1.46 1.06 0.90 tartaric acid 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.35 0.35 SOLVENT
(water + non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS

Each of Compositions 1A through 1E was prepared by adding the solvent and stirring, then adding the acid to obtain a first mixture, which was then heated. Once the first mixture reached a temperature of approximately 70-75°C, the fatty alcohols, cationic conditioning agents, coconut oil, glycols, and additional components were added to the first mixture to obtain a second mixture. , which was homogenized at about 1500 to 2000 rpm for about 10 minutes and then cooled to room temperature. After the second mixture was cooled to room temperature, optional ingredients were added to obtain a finished mass of mixture. Finally, for compositions 1A to 1C, the propellants were added and the composition was aerosolized.

Inventive compositions 1A-1C were low viscosity compositions which were easily aerosolized into dense, smooth, plush, stable foams. This can be seen in the photographic image in Figure 1, which is the hair color toning mousse prepared in Example 1C.

Example 2 – Comparison of properties of compositions and treated hair

A comparative study was conducted to demonstrate the properties and performance of aerosol foam compositions according to the disclosure. After Composition 1A was aerosolized to form a foam hair conditioner, it was tested and compared with Non-Aerosolized Hair Conditioner Composition 1D in a salon half-head study performed on the hair of 10 volunteers. The volunteers' hair was medium to long in length, having a medium diameter, curl pattern of 1 to 3, and sensitized level of 3 to 4.

The volunteers' hair was first cleaned with a commercially available shampoo. While the hair was still damp, an amount of Composition 1A necessary to condition the hair was applied to one half of the head of the hair and distributed evenly with the fingers. The same amount of 1D composition was then applied to the other half of the head of hair and evenly distributed with the fingers. Both compositions 1A and 1D were left on the hair for about 5 minutes. After rinsing the compositions from the hair, the hair was combed, dried, and styled.

During application, Composition 1A received higher ratings than Composition 1D for consistency, melt-in-the-hand feel, coating effect, and absorption.

During and after combing, drying, and styling the hair, hair treated with composition 1A received a higher rating than composition 1D for surface effect, results on dry ends, feel of smooth hair, ease combing, and dry character.

In general, when compared to the comparative non-aerosolized conditioner composition, the aerosolized mousse conditioner composition according to the disclosure had better application properties and left the hair with improved sensory properties than the comparative non-aerosolized composition.

Figure 2 is a photographic image showing the mousse 210 formed by composition 1A after being aerosolized in comparison to the cream conditioner 220 of composition 1D in a similar amount. As seen in Figure 2, the foam 210 formed by composition 1A is compact and dense and does not sag. The 210 foam also does not appear “airy” or “whipped”, and is surprisingly stable.

Example 3 – Properties of aerosol compositions s including vegetable oil

As described, high levels of vegetable oil are typically not included in traditional emulsion cosmetic compositions. Accordingly, a comparative study was conducted to demonstrate the impact of including a vegetable oil in the disclosed aerosol foam compositions.

The study was carried out by comparing the appearance and rheological characteristics of two compositions prepared based on the same formulation, the only difference being that a vegetable oil (coconut) was included or not. Composition 1A of Table 1 was compared with a comparative composition including all the same ingredients except coconut oil (composition 1A'). In composition 1A', the coconut oil was replaced by the same amount of water.

The viscosities of compositions 1A and 1A', as emulsions, were measured using a Rheomat 180 viscometer at about 25°C/spindle 2 (composition 1A, 320) or 3 (composition 1A', 310 ) for 30 seconds. The viscosity of Composition 1A was found to be in the range of about 10 to about 30 DU ("Deflection Units") when measured at about 25°C, 200 rpm, 30 seconds on a spindle 2 of the viscometer. The viscosity of composition 1A' was found to be at least about 10 DU when measured at 25°C, 200 rpm, 30 seconds on spindle 3 of the viscometer, indicating an increase in thickness.

A comparison of compositions 1A and 1A' before aerosolization is shown in Figure 3. As can be seen, composition 1A, 320 is significantly less viscous than composition 1A', 310. This difference suggests that composition 1A', which is thicker, will be more difficult to aerosolize, whereas composition 1A is more fluid, indicating that it will be aerosolized more easily. Without coconut oil, Composition 1A' resulted in a product that was too thick and could not be aerosolized into a viable product, and could not be dispensed properly.

This comparison thus demonstrated the benefit of using a vegetable oil in aerosol foam compositions according to the disclosure.

Example 4 – Comparison to compositions with silicones

A comparative study was conducted to demonstrate that silicone-based compositions, such as silicone-rich hair masks, do not aerosolize well. Two examples of compositions were prepared by mixing the ingredients according to the formulations presented in Table 2 below.

INCI NAME Composition 4A
(comparative composition) Composition 4B
(comparative composition) BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3.75 4 OTHER INGREDIENTS 1.63 2.52 WATER 77.12 85.98 LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOL 7 3.5 ESTER 2 - SILICONE 8.5 4

The viscosities of compositions 4A and 4B were measured using a Rheomat 180 viscometer at approximately 25° C. for 30 seconds at 200 rpm on a spindle 3 of the viscometer. Both compositions 4A and 4B have a viscosity range of approximately 30 to 85 DU on pin 3. Such viscosity and raw material combination hindered the compositions ability to effortlessly activate into a stable compact foam. The compositions could not aerosolize well.

Example 5 – Evaluation of the stability of aerosol foams

An evaluation was carried out to study the stability of a mousse conditioner composition according to the disclosure (composition 1A in Table 1) ("Inventive mousse"), compared to a commercially available mousse conditioner ("Comparative mousse ”) comprising the following components:

Commercially available foam conditioner WATER PROPELLANTS CETEARYL ALCOHOL DIMETHYL ETHER STEARAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE SCENT DIMETHICONE DMDM HYDANTOINE DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL LACTIC ACID PVP DISODIUM EDTA AMODIMETHICONE BUTYLENE GLYCOL IODOPROYNYL BUTYLCARBAMATE PEG-7 PROPYLHEPTYL ETHER CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE COLLAGEN AMINO ACIDS

The study was conducted by dispensing approximately equal amounts of conditioner compositions to form foams, and observing the behavior of the foams over a period of time. As can be seen in FIG. 4A, at time (t) = 0, i.e. immediately after aerosolization, the inventive foam 410 is compact, dense, and retains its shape, whereas the comparative foam 412 is airy and already ready to collapse. In Figure 4B, at time t=10 minutes, i.e., 10 minutes after aerosolization, inventive foam 410 is still dense, while comparative foam 412 is ready to lose its foam properties. In Figure 4C, at t=30 minutes, comparative foam 410 is essentially unchanged, while comparative foam 412 continues to lose foam properties. The photographs in Figures 4D (t=45 minutes) and 4E (t=60 minutes) demonstrate that the inventive foam 410 retains its shape and looks dense even after one hour, while the comparative foam 412 continued to dissolve and shed. its foam characteristics.

This example demonstrates that the foam compositions according to the disclosure are stable in comparison to similar conventional foam products.

It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations may be practiced in the compositions and methods according to the disclosure without departing from the spirit or scope of the disclosure. Thus, it is intended that the disclosure covers such modifications and variations and their equivalents.

Claims (10)

Composition for treating keratinous substrates comprising:
(a) from 0.5% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one vegetable oil comprising coconut oil;
(b) at least one liquid fatty alcohol chosen from C ₈ to C ₃₀ liquid fatty alcohols;
(c) from 0.01% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one cationic conditioning agent chosen from the amidoamines of formula (I) or their salts:
RCONHR'N(R'') _{2 (} I)
in which :
R is a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical containing at least 6 carbon atoms, optionally;
R' is a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; And
R'' is H or a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; And
(d) at least one propellant;
wherein the composition is in the form of a fluid emulsion. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the at least one liquid fatty alcohol is chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl- 1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-ketanol and mixtures thereof. Composition according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, in which the at least one cationic conditioning agent is chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine , ricinoléamindopropyl diméthylamine, sojamidopropyl diméthylamine, germe de blé amidopropyl diméthylamine, tournesolamidopropyl diméthylamine, amandamidopropyl diméthylamine, avocatamidopropyl diméthylamine, babassuamidopropyl diméthylamine, cocamidopropyl diméthylamine, visonamidopropyl diméthylamine, oatamidopropyl diméthylamine, sésamidopropyl diméthylamine, tallamidopropyl diméthylamine, brassicamidopropyl diméthylamine, olivamidopropyl diméthylamine, palmitamidopropyl diméthylamine, stéaramidoéthyldiéthylamine , and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising:
(e) from 0.01% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one solid fatty alcohol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising:
(f) at least one component selected from active agents, direct dyes, pigments, surfactants, or mixtures thereof. System comprising an aerosol device containing:
(a) from 0.5% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one vegetable oil comprising coconut oil;
(b) at least one liquid fatty alcohol selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl- 1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-ketanol and mixtures thereof;
(c) from 0.01% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one cationic conditioning agent chosen from the amidoamines of formula (I) or their salts:
RCONHR'N(R'') _{2 (} I)
in which :
R is a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical containing at least 6 carbon atoms, optionally;
R' is a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; And
R'' is H or a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; And
(d) at least one propellant;
(e) optionally at least one solid fatty alcohol selected from lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof ; And
(f) optionally at least one additional component selected from active agents, direct dyes, pigments, surfactants, or mixtures thereof;
wherein the composition is in the form of a flowable emulsion, and
wherein the aerosol device includes means for dispensing the contents of the container. A system according to claim 6, wherein the total amount of fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A system according to claim 6 or claim 7, wherein the at least one cationic conditioning agent is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine , ricinoléamindopropyl diméthylamine, sojamidopropyl diméthylamine, germe de blé amidopropyl diméthylamine, tournesolamidopropyl diméthylamine, amandamidopropyl diméthylamine, avocatamidopropyl diméthylamine, babassuamidopropyl diméthylamine, cocamidopropyl diméthylamine, visonamidopropyl diméthylamine, oatamidopropyl diméthylamine, sésamidopropyl diméthylamine, tallamidopropyl diméthylamine, brassicamidopropyl diméthylamine, olivamidopropyl diméthylamine, palmitamidopropyl diméthylamine, stéaramidoéthyldiéthylamine , and mixtures thereof. A method for treating, caring for, or conditioning a keratinous substrate, comprising:
the application to the keratinous substrate of an aerosolized mousse composition, in which the aerosolized mousse composition comprises:
(a) from 0.5% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one vegetable oil comprising coconut oil;
(b) at least one liquid fatty alcohol chosen from C ₈ to C ₃₀ liquid fatty alcohols;
(c) from 0.01% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one cationic conditioning agent chosen from the amidoamines of formula (I) or their salts:
RCONHR'N(R'') _{2 (} I)
in which :
R is a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical containing at least 6 carbon atoms, optionally;
R' is a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; And
R'' is H or a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; And
(d) at least one propellant;
(e) optionally at least one solid fatty alcohol; And
(f) optionally, at least one additional component selected from active agents, direct dyes, pigments, surfactants, or mixtures thereof, and
optionally rinsing off the composition from the keratinous substrate;
wherein the total amount of fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Kit including:
an aerosol container containing a first composition, the first composition comprising:
(a) from 0.5% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one vegetable oil comprising coconut oil;
(b) at least one liquid fatty alcohol chosen from C ₈ to C ₃₀ liquid fatty alcohols;
(c) from 0.01% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one cationic conditioning agent chosen from the amidoamines of formula (I) or their salts:
RCONHR'N(R'') _{2 (} I)
in which :
R is a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical containing at least 6 carbon atoms, optionally;
R' is a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; And
R'' is H or a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; And
(d) at least one propellant;
(e) optionally at least one solid fatty alcohol; And
(f) optionally, at least one additional component selected from active agents, direct dyes, pigments, surfactants, or mixtures thereof, and
wherein the first composition is in the form of a fluid emulsion; And
a second container comprising a second composition for treating, caring for, or conditioning keratinous substrates.