FR3123806A1 - cosmetic and personal care compositions containing cationic surfactants and anionic compounds - Google Patents

Abstract

COSMETIC AND PERSONAL CARE COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING CATIONIC SURFACTANTS AND ANIONIC COMPOUNDS This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that include an anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups; a cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant; a fatty alcohol; and a cosmetically acceptable solvent; wherein the molar ratio of cationic surfactant to anionic surfactant ranges from about 5:1 to about 1:5. Methods of using these cosmetic compositions are also provided. Figure for abstract: None

Description

cosmetic and personal care compositions containing cationic surfactants and anionic compounds

area of disclosure

The present disclosure relates to cosmetic and personal care compositions containing cationic surfactants, anionic compounds selected from anionic surfactants and fatty compounds. The compositions are particularly useful for imparting conditioning or moisturizing properties to keratinous substrates such as hair or skin and exhibit improved rinsability properties. Also disclosed are methods of using the cosmetic compositions.

CONTEXT

Many consumers desire to use cosmetic and personal care compositions which impart caring and conditioning/moisturizing properties to keratinous substrates such as hair and skin. For example, consumers are continually looking for skin and scalp care products that can provide enhanced conditioning and moisturizing benefits. They are also looking for hair care products or hair cosmetic compositions to care for hair that has been subjected to chemical treatments such as oxidative dyes, straightening or permanent wave treatments. Many of these chemical treatments are alkaline in nature and can leave residual alkalinity on the treated hair.

Although dyes or color-changing compositions can effectively change hair color, and straightening, straightening, perming, and waving compositions can effectively change hair shape, these chemical treatments can damage fibers capillaries and/or irritate the scalp. In addition, external factors such as high humidity, which makes the hair very frizzy, difficult to comb and causes it to lose its shape and style, or mechanical, physical or other stresses, such as brushing, combing, tangling and heat, can also damage or negatively impact the feel and look of the hair.

Thus, in order to reduce or avoid damage to the hair, as well as to improve the cosmetic performance of the compositions, various types of hair products have been developed by manufacturers with the aim of helping consumers to improve the quality of hair, hair feel and manageability as well as reducing or eliminating hair frizz and conditioning/hydrating hair, especially when damaged. These products are typically supplied in the form of shampoos, conditioners or treatments such as after or pre-shampoo treatments, and post or pre-conditioning treatments which may be leave-in or rinse-out products.

Additionally, consumers desire hair and skin care products, particularly rinse-out cleansing and conditioning products that can be removed quickly or effectively without leaving noticeable residue and that, at the same time, provide conditioning. , hydration or other cosmetic benefits such as improved feel properties of hair or skin.

Thus, the object of this invention is related to a composition and a method for treating keratinous substrates such as the hair or the skin, in which the composition offers both care and rinsability/washability properties. elimination.

The object of the invention is also to provide a composition and a method for treating hair which has been chemically treated or damaged, such as hair which has been brought into contact with a basic or alkaline treatment.

disclosure summary

It has surprisingly been found that the compositions and methods for treating keratinous substrates such as hair or skin according to the present invention provide conditioning and moisturizing benefits to the keratinous substrate, as well as other desirable properties such as as attributes of rinsability or ability to be eliminated quickly and effectively.

One aspect of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing:

(a) at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups;

(b) at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;

(c) at least one fatty alcohol; and

(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;

wherein the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from about 5:1 to 1:5.

Another aspect of the invention relates to methods of treating keratinous substrates such as hair or skin, for example, conditioning or moisturizing the hair or skin. In some embodiments, the method includes applying any of the compositions described herein to keratinous substrates. In one or more embodiments, the composition is applied to hair, including curly hair, as part of a hair care routine. In some embodiments, the composition is applied after treating the hair with shampoo. In some embodiments, the composition is a rinse-off product. In certain embodiments, the rinse-out composition is used as a post-treatment product, after chemical treatment of the hair or treatment of the hair with an alkaline product. Such a product can provide conditioning, hydration and repair benefits to chemically treated hair. In some embodiments, the composition is used as a rinse-off skin care product that can cleanse and, at the same time, provide conditioning and moisturizing benefits.

Brief description of the drawing

An implementation of the present technology will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:

[Fig. 1] The [Fig. 1] includes graphs showing the viscosity profiles of the inventive composition Ex. A when the pH of the composition is changed or when the composition is diluted with water.

[Fig. 2] The [Fig. 2] includes graphs showing the viscosity profiles of the inventive composition Ex. B when the pH of the composition is changed or when the composition is diluted with water.

[Fig. 3] The [Fig. 3] includes graphs showing the viscosity profiles of the inventive composition Ex. C when the pH of the composition is changed or when the composition is diluted with water.

[Fig. 4] The [Fig. 4] includes graphs showing the viscosity profiles of the comparative composition Ex. D when the pH of the composition is changed or when the composition is diluted with water.

[Fig. 5] The [Fig. 5] includes graphs showing the viscosity profiles of the comparative composition Ex. E when the pH of the composition is changed or when the composition is diluted with water.

[Fig. 6] The [Fig. 6] includes graphs showing the viscosity profiles of the comparative composition Ex. F when the pH of the composition is changed or when the composition is diluted with water.

[Fig. 7] The [Fig. 7] includes graphs showing the viscosity profiles of the comparative composition Ex. G when the pH of the composition is changed or when the composition is diluted with water.

[Fig. 8] The [Fig. 8] includes graphs showing the viscosity profiles of the comparative composition Ex. H when the pH of the composition is changed or when the composition is diluted with water.

It should be understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentality shown in the drawings.

detailed description of the disclosure

The term “cosmetic composition” encompasses numerous types of compositions intended to be applied to keratinous substrates such as the hair or the skin. When the substrate is a hair, the compositions can be hair lotions, emulsified creams, conditioners, hair masks, etc., which can be used as leave-in or leave-in treatments or products. A cosmetic composition, such as a cosmetic hair composition according to the invention, is characterized by its ability to provide a cosmetic benefit (such as care) to the substrate. Non-limiting examples of benefits that can be imparted to the hair by the compositions of the present invention include one or more of the following: frizz control, curl definition, discipline, volume control, manageability, softness, shine, suppleness, hydration (no dry feeling) and natural feeling. At the same time, even when the compositions of the present disclosure contain fatty compounds such as fatty alcohols, silicones and vegetable or herbal oils, it is surprising to find that a feeling of lightness and a feeling of cleanliness (non-greasy, non-oily) are imparted to the hair.

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure typically include:

(a) at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups;

(b) at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;

(c) at least one fatty alcohol; and

(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;

wherein the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant is between about 5:1 and about 1:5.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a lamellar gel network.

In one embodiment, the at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least two carboxylate salt groups is represented by formula (I):

(I)

in which

R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

X is -O ^- or an ester group, -COO ^- , or an amide group, -CONY where Y is hydrogen or an alkyl group,

m is 0 or 1 or 2,

n is an integer from 0 to 4,

M is hydrogen or a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counter-anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

In one embodiment, the at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least two carboxylate salt groups is represented by formula (I):

(I)

in which

R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms,

X is an amide group, -CONY where Y is a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom,

m is 0 or 1 or 2,

n is an integer from 0 to 4,

M is hydrogen or a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counter-anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

In one embodiment, the at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least two carboxylate salt groups is chosen from sodium stearoylglutamate, disodium stearoylglutamate, sodium cocoylglutamate, disodium cocoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, or a mixture thereof.

In one embodiment, the at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups is present in an amount of from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight. weight, or about 0.6 to about 3.5% by weight, or about 0.6 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.7 to about 2.5% by weight, or about 0, 8 to about 2% by weight, or about 1 to about 2% by weight, or about 1.2 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including intermediate ranges and subranges .

In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is chosen from:

- quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula below:

in which the R ₈ to R ₁₁ groups, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

- a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline;

- a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula:

in which R ₁₆ denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R ₁₇ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N-(CH ₂ ) ₃ , R _16a , R _17a , R _18a , R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , identical or different , being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X ⁻ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates; and

- cationizable surfactants, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer chosen from compounds of general structure R ₄ -AR ₅ -B,

in which R ₄ is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain containing 8 to 24 C atoms, R ₅ is a linear or branched alkyl chain containing 1 to 4 C atoms, A is chosen from:

and B is selected from

in which R ₆ and R ₇ , identical or different, are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and

in which R ₈ and R ₉ are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, R ₁₀ is a chain alkyl with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms,

- or mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is chosen from diammonium or quaternary triammonium salts, in particular of formula:

in which R ₁₆ denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R ₁₇ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N-(CH ₂ ) ₃ , R _16a , R _17a , R _18a , R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , identical or different , being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates.

In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is chosen from cationizable surfactants, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer chosen from compounds of general structure R ₄ -AR ₅ -B,

in which R ₄ is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain containing 8 to 24 C atoms, R ₅ is a linear or branched alkyl chain containing 1 to 4 C atoms, A is chosen from:

and B is selected from

in which R ₆ and R ₇ , identical or different, are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and

in which R ₈ and R ₉ are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, R ₁₀ is a chain alkyl with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms.

In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is chosen from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicétyldimonium, chlorure de tricétylmonium, oléamidopropyl diméthylamine, linoléamidopropyl diméthylamine, isostéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, oléyl hydroxyéthyl imidazoline, stéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiméthylamine, arachidamidopropyldiméthylamine, arachidamido-propyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiméthylamine, brassicamidopropyldiméthylamine, lauramidopropyl diméthylamine, myristamidopropyl diméthylamine, dilinoléamidopropyl diméthylamine , palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant includes behentrimonium chloride.

In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant includes cetrimonium chloride.

In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is chosen from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride or a mixture thereof.

Dans un mode de réalisation, le au moins un tensioactif cationique est choisi parmi oléamidopropyl diméthylamine, linoléamidopropyl diméthylamine, isostéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, oléylhydroxyéthylimidazoline, stéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiméthylamine, arachidamidopropyldiméthylamine, arachidamido-propyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiméthylamine, brassicamidopropyldiméthylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant includes stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, or about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, or about 0. 2 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including ranges and intermediate sub-ranges.

In one embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristic alcohol or myristyl (1-tetradecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol), myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

In one embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount of about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, or about 1 to about 8% by weight, or about 1.5 to about 7% by weight, or about 2 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including the ranges and subranges in between.

In one embodiment, the at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent is chosen from water, organic solvents and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least two carboxylate salt groups is greater than 1.

In one embodiment, the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups is between about 1:0.9 and about 1:0.2, or between about 1:0.8 and about 1:0.4, or between about 1:0.7 and about 1:0.5, including intermediate ranges and subranges.

In one embodiment, the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant is less than 1.

In one embodiment, the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups is between about 1:2 and about 1:1.1, or between about 1 :1.8 and about 1:1.2, or between about 1:1.6 and about 1:1.2, including intermediate ranges and subranges.

In one embodiment, the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant is 1.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition has a pH ranging from about 2.5 to less than about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.8, or from about 3 to about 4.5, or d about 3.2 to about 4.5, or about 3 to about 4, including the intermediate ranges and subranges.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure has an initial viscosity (after preparation of the composition) equal to or greater than 1 Pa.s, or about 1 to about 100 Pa.s, or about 1 at about 50 Pa.s, or from about 1 to about 30 Pa.s, or from about 1 to about 20 Pa.s, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, at a shear rate of about or greater than 10 (1/s) and less than 10 ² 1/s as measured by a rheometer (DHR-2, TA instruments, New Castle, DE, USA).

In one embodiment, the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least two carboxylate salt groups is greater than approximately 1, and the initial pH of the composition is less than 5 (such than about 3 to about 4.8).

In one embodiment, the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least two carboxylate salt groups is less than 1, and the initial pH of the composition is between more than 3, 5 approximately and less than 5 approximately, or between 4 approximately and less than 5 approximately (for example between 4.8 approximately).

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one amino-functional silicone selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C _13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and a mixture thereof.

In one embodiment, the at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent is chosen from water, organic solvents and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition has a pH ranging from about 2.5 to about 4.8 or from about 2.7 to about 4.5 or from about 3 to about 4.5, including ranges and intermediate sub-ranges.

In one embodiment, the at least one amino-functional silicone is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, or preferably about 0.3 to about 4% by weight, or more preferably about 0.4 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including the ranges and subranges in between .

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one fatty compound chosen from at least one fatty compound including oils of vegetable origin (such as butters of vegetable origin, triglycerides of vegetable origin ), hydrocarbon oils, esters, or a mixture thereof.

In one embodiment, the at least one fatty compound is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 9% by weight, or about 0.2 to about 8% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 7% by weight, or from about 0.4 to about 7% by weight, or from about 0.4 to about 6.5% by weight , or from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, or from 0.5 to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 4.5% by weight, or preferably, from about 1 to about 4% by weight, or more preferably, about 1 to about 3% by weight, or even more preferably, about 1.5 to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

In one embodiment, the at least one fatty compound includes at least one ester selected from fatty esters, cetyl esters, isopropyl esters, glyceryl esters (glycerol), dialkyl esters, diesters with octanoic acid and propylene glycol (for example, mixture of propylene glycol diesters of caprylic and capric acids, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, or mixtures thereof, preferably from cetyl esters, isopropyl esters, glycerol esters, or mixtures of these.

In one embodiment, the at least one ester is present in an amount of about 0.01 to about 6 wt%, such as about 0.05 to about 5 wt%, about 0.05 to about 4 .5% by weight, or such as about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including the intermediate ranges and subranges.

In one embodiment, the total amount of the at least one fatty alcohol is greater than the total amount of the at least one fatty compound in the compositions of the present invention, and ranges from about 10:1 to about 1.5:1 , including intermediate ranges and subranges. In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the at least one fatty alcohol is greater than the total amount of the at least one fatty compound, is greater than 1, or is about 9:1, 8:1, 7:1, 6:1, 5.7:1, 5.5:1, 5:1, 4:1, 3:1, 2:1 or 1.5:1.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkylpolyglucosides, polysorbates, or mixtures thereof.

The cosmetically acceptable solvent is chosen from water, organic solvents, or a mixture thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent includes water.

In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent includes water and at least one organic solvent.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention typically includes:

(a) from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 3.5% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.7 to about 2.5% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant having at least carboxylate salt groups;

(b) from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 2.5% by weight, of at least a cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;

(c) from about 1.5 to about 7% by weight, or from about 2 to about 7% by weight, or from about 2 to about 6% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol;

(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;

(e) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of at least one silicone;

(f) optionally, from about 0.05 to about 2% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant; and

(g) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and

wherein the weight ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from about 3:1 to about 1:3 or from about 2:1 to about 1:2;

wherein the cosmetic composition has a pH ranging from about 2.5 to less than about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.8, or from about 3 to about 4.5, or from about 3, 2 to about 4.5;

all weights being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention typically includes:

(a) from about 0.7 to about 2.5% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant having two carboxylate salt groups selected from sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, or mixtures thereof;

(b) from about 0.5 to about 2.5% by weight. % by weight of at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant and chosen from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride , chlorure de dicétyldimonium, chlorure de tricétylmonium, oléamidopropyl diméthylamine, linoléamidopropyl diméthylamine, isostéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, oléyl hydroxyéthyl imidazoline, stéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiméthylamine, arachidamidopropyldiméthylamine, arachidamido-propyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiméthylamine, brassicamidopropyldiméthylamine, lauramidopropyl diméthylamine, myristamidopropyl diméthylamine , dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, or melan ges of these;

(c) from about 2 to about 6% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1 -dodecanol), myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof;

(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;

(e) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of at least one silicone selected from amino functional silicones;

(f) optionally, from about 0.05 to about 2% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant; and

(g) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and

wherein the weight ratio of the at least one cationic surfactant to the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from about 1:2 to about 1:1.1;

all weights being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention typically includes:

(a) from about 1.2 to about 2% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups selected from sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, or a mixture thereof;

(b) from about 0.5 to about 2.5% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;

(c) from about 2 to about 6% by weight of at least one selected fatty alcohol;

(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;

(e) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of at least one silicone;

(f) optionally, from about 0.05 to about 2% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant; and

(g) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and

wherein the weight ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from about 1:0.7 to about 1:0.5;

all weights being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the present disclosure relates to a method comprising applying to the hair any of the cosmetic compositions described above, wherein the method imparts to the hair one or more of:

- conditioning benefits;

- hair repair benefits;

- frizz control;

- manageability;

- a definition of loops;

- a smooth appearance;

- sweetness; Where

- flexibility.

In one embodiment, the method described above comprises or includes a step of alkalizing the hair or of forming pre-alkalized hair before applying the cosmetic composition to the hair.

In one embodiment, the present invention also relates to a rapid washing or rapid rinsing method, the method comprising:

1. the application to a keratinous substrate such as the hair or the skin, of a cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 3.5% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.7 to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.8 to about 2% by weight, or from about 1 to about 2% by weight, or from about 1.2 to about 2% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups;

(b) from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, of at least one surfactant cationic, including a cationizable surfactant;

(c) from about 2 to about 7% by weight, or from about 3 to about 7% by weight, or from about 4 to about 7% by weight of at least one selected fatty alcohol;

(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;

(e) optionally, at least one silicone;

(f) optionally, at least one nonionic surfactant;

(g) optionally, at least one fatty compound selected from non-silicone oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and

wherein the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from about 5:1 to about 1:5; and

all weights being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the method further comprises a step of rinsing the keratinous substrate with external water.

It has been surprisingly discovered that the combination of at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups and at least one cationic surfactant in a molar ratio greater than 1 in a composition for the treatment of hair or skin, resulted in faster and improved rinseability of the composition when applied to wet hair or skin or exposed to external water. Upon exposure to external water, the viscosity of the composition decreases significantly. With faster and improved rinsing ease, the rinsing step uses less water.

In various embodiments, the molar ratio between the at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups and the at least one cationic surfactant ranges from about 1:0.9 to about 1:0.2, or d 'about 1:0.8 to about 1:0.4 or about 1:0.7 to about 1:0.5, including intermediate ranges and subranges, or is about 1:0.9 , 1:0.85, 1:0.8, 1:0.75, 1:07, 1:0.65, 1:0.6, 1:0.55, 1:0.5, 1:0 .45, 1:0.4, 1:0.35, 1:0.3, 1:0.25 or 1:0.2.

Thus, in one embodiment, the present invention further relates to a rapid washing or rapid rinsing method, the method being a method for improving the rinsability of a composition from keratinous substrates such as hair or skin and comprising:

(1) the combination:

(a) from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0, 7 to about 2.5% by weight, of at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups;

(b) from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, of at least one surfactant cationic, including a cationizable surfactant;

(c) from about 2 to about 7% by weight, or from about 3 to about 7% by weight, or from about 4 to about 7% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol;

(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;

(e) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of at least one silicone;

(f) optionally, from about 0.05 to about 2% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant; and

(g) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and

in which the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant is greater than 1, in order to form a cosmetic composition; and

all weights being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

When the cosmetic composition is brought into contact with external water, the viscosity of the composition decreases, which makes it possible to improve the spreading and the ease of application of the composition on the skin or the hair.

In various embodiments, when the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure is to be applied to hair, any of the methods described above includes applying the cosmetic composition to hair that has previously been contacted or pretreated with an alkaline or basic product or composition, including an oxidative hair dye composition or a hair straightening/straightening composition.

It has also been surprisingly discovered that the combination of the at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least two carboxylate salt groups and the at least one cationic surfactant in a molar ratio greater than 1 in a composition for the treatment of hair, has resulted in faster and improved ease of rinsing of the composition when the pH of the composition is increased, such as when the composition is contacted with an alkaline or basic composition or substrate or when the composition is applied to pre-alkalized hair. As the pH of the composition increases, the viscosity of the composition decreases significantly. With faster and improved rinsing ease, the rinsing step uses less water.

Thus, in one embodiment, the present invention is further directed to a quick washing or quick rinsing method, the method comprising the application to pre-alkalized hair or hair having a basic or alkaline pH, d a cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups;

(b) at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;

(c) at least one fatty alcohol;

(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;

(e) optionally, at least one silicone;

(f) optionally, at least one nonionic surfactant; and

(g) optionally, at least one fatty compound selected from non-silicone oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and

wherein the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant is greater than 1. In one embodiment, the combination of at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups and at least one cationic surfactant in a molar ratio less than 1 in a composition for the treatment of hair or skin, can lead to better deposition of the conditioning and/or active agents on the hair or skin when the pH of the composition has been increased, such as when the composition is contacted with or applied to pre-alkalized hair. As the pH of the composition increases, the viscosity of the composition increases significantly.

In various embodiments, the molar ratio between the at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups and the at least one cationic surfactant ranges from about 1:2 to about 1:1. 1, or from about 1:1.8 to about 1:1.2 or from about 1:1.6 to about 1:1.2, including intermediate ranges and subranges, or is approximately 1:2, 1:1.9, 1:1.8, 1:1.7, 1:1.6, 1:1.5, 1:1.4, 1:1.3, 1:1 .2 or 1:1.1.

Thus, in one embodiment, the present invention further relates to a method for improving the deposition of conditioning and/or active agents on keratinous substrates, the method comprising:

(1) the application to a keratinous substrate such as the hair or the skin, of a cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups;

(b) at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;

(c) at least one fatty alcohol;

(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;

(e) optionally, at least one silicone;

(f) optionally, at least one fatty compound selected from non-silicone oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and

wherein the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant is less than 1.

In one embodiment, any of the methods described above further comprises a step of rinsing the keratinous substrate with external water.

The cosmetic compositions described in this document can be in any suitable physical form. Suitable forms include, but are not limited to, low to moderate viscosity liquids, lotions, milks, cream-gels, cream-emulsions, pastes, clays, conditioners, masks, and the like. In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are rinse-off compositions.

Cosmetic compositions can be packaged in a variety of different containers, such as, for example, a ready-to-use container. Non-limiting examples of useful packages include tubes, jars, caps, unit dose packages and bottles, including squeeze tubes and bottles, pump bottles and spray bottles.

Anionic surfactant

The anionic surfactant of the present invention has at least two carboxylate salt groups.

In one embodiment, the anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups of the present invention can also be described as an amino acid surfactant which is an acyl amino acid salt derived from a carboxylate salt of an acid amino acid in which the amino group located on the a carbon or the beta carbon of an amino acid salt is acylated with an alkyl fatty acid derivative such as a C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty acid derivative, or a C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid derivative. Acyl amino acid salts can be formed by conventional means such as neutralization of the respective amino acid with a base. The amine group located on the a-carbon or the beta-carbon of the neutralized amino acid is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base by the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction giving the amide, thus forming the desired surfactant reaction product, i.e. the amino acid surfactant. Acyl halides suitable for acylation of the amino acid carboxylate salt include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides and iodides. Acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride and iodide). Representative acyl halides include but are not limited to acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride), cocoyl chloride (fatty acid chlorides derived from coconut oil ), tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride), hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride), octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride), 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride), eicosanoyl chloride (d arachidoyl), docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride), and any mixture thereof. Other acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides and iodides of the above fatty acids. A process for the preparation of acyl halides as well as an alternative process for the acylation of amino acids are disclosed in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2008/0200704, published August 21, 2008, which application is incorporated here by reference.

In one embodiment, said anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups is represented by formula (I):

(I)

in which

R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

X is -O ^- or an ester group, -COO ^- , or an amide group, -CONY where Y is hydrogen or an alkyl group,

m is 0 or 1 or 2,

n is an integer from 0 to 4,

M is hydrogen or a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counter-anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

In one embodiment, in formula (I):

R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms,

X represents an amide group, -CONY where Y is hydrogen or an alkyl group,

m is 0 or 1 or 2,

n is an integer from 0 to 4,

M is hydrogen or a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counter-anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

In one embodiment, in formula (I):

R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms,

X represents an amide group, -CONY where Y is hydrogen,

m is 0 or 1 or 2,

n is an integer from 0 to 4,

M is hydrogen or a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counter-anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

In one embodiment, in formula (I):

R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms,

X represents an amide group, -CONY where Y is hydrogen,

m is 0,

n is an integer of 2,

M is hydrogen or a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counter-anion, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

Examples of at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups include salts of aspartic acid, glutamic acid and any mixture thereof. More specific examples are dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, myristoyl glutamate potassium, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, undecylenoyl glutamate sodium, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, pot myristoyl aspartate assium, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made of commercially available anionic surfactants, for example N-acylglutamates, for example triethanolamine monococoylglutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12(R) by the company Ajinomoto and triethanolamine lauroylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT -12 by the Ajinomoto company; aspartates, for example the mixture of N-lauroyl aspartate of triethanolamine and N-myristoylaspartate of triethanolamine, sold under the name ASPARACK by the company Mitsubishi; citrates, and any mixture thereof.

According to the present invention, the preferred anionic surfactant is chosen from sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl aspartate or a mixture thereof.

Among the preferred anionic surfactants in the composition which is commercially available, mention may be made of sodium cocoyl glutamate (and) disodium cocoyl glutamate (AMISOFT CS-22 sold by Ajinomoto), and sodium lauroyl glutamate (AMISOFT LS-11 sold by Ajinomoto).

Mention may also be made of cocoyl glutamate of triethanolamine sold under the name AMISOFT CT12 by the company Ajinomoto, and lauroyl glutamate of triethanolamine sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12 by the company Ajinomoto.

As an acyl glutamic acid salt, mention may also be made of sodium hydrogenated tallowyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS 11 by the company Ajinomoto and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-21 by the company Ajinomoto.

Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one derivative of glutamic acid or a salt of said derivative, for example the mixture of acylglutamate salts such as AMISOFT LS-22 sold by the company Ajinomoto.

More preferentially, the anionic surfactant of the compositions of the present invention is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

Such compounds are sold under the name AMISOFT by the company Ajinomoto and in particular under the references AMISOFT CA, AMISOFT LA, AMISOFT HS 11 PF, AMISOFT MK-11, AMISOFT LK-11 and AMISOFT CK-11, or alternatively under the name EUMULGIN SG by Cognis.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate) is used, such as the product sold by the company Ajinomoto under the reference AMISOFT HS 11 SP.

The total amount of at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups in the composition, if present, can vary but is typically more than 0.1 to about 5% by weight, based on the weight composition total. In some cases, the total amount of the at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups is in an amount of about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 4% by weight. weight, or from about 0.6 to about 3.5% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 3.5% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 3% by weight, or d about 0.7 to about 2.5% by weight, or about 0.8 to about 2% by weight, or about 1 to about 2% by weight, or about 1.2 to about 2 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including intermediate ranges and subranges.

Thus, the at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, in an amount of about 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.5, 0.55, 0.6, 0.65, 0.7, 0.75, 0.8, 0, 85, 0.9, 0.95, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, at about 2% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges.

Cationic surfactants including cationizable surfactants

According to the disclosure, the compositions of this document can include at least one cationic surfactant. The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant which can be positively charged when contained in the compositions according to the disclosure. This surfactant may bear one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more functional groups which are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl diméthylamine, linoléamidopropyl diméthylamine, isostéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, oléyl hydroxyéthyl imidazoline, stéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiméthylamine, arachidamidopropyldiméthylamine, arachidamido-propyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiméthylamine, brassicamidopropyldiméthylamine, lauramidopropyl diméthylamine, myristamidopropyl diméthylamine, dilinoléamidopropyl diméthylamine, palmitamidopropyl diméthylamine, et des mélanges of these.

In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, de tricétylmonium, oléamidopropyl diméthylamine, linoléamidopropyl diméthylamine, isostéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, oléyl hydroxyéthyl imidazoline, stéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiméthylamine, arachidamidopropyldiméthylamine, arachidamido-propyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiméthylamine, et des mélanges de ceux-ci.

In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant includes cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. Behentrimonium chloride, also described by technical names that include 1-docosanaminium, N,N,N-trimethyl-, chloride, and N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride, is the quaternary ammonium salt which corresponds to the formula:

(I)

According to certain embodiments, the amount of each of the at least one cationic surfactant is from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0. 2 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. In certain particular embodiments, the at least one cationic surfactant, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer, is present from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, and an acid neutralizer is present from about 0.0.5 to about 1% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Thus, any one of at least one cationic surfactant is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of approximately 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.2, 3.4, 3, 5, 3.6, 3.8, 4, 4.2, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.8, 4.9 or 5 by weight.

Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamin chloride (Quaternium- 15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, ether phosphate diethanolammonium POE(10) oleyl ether, diethanolammonium POE(3) oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, hydrochloride iofetamine ate, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkoniumhectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethylpropylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallowtrimonium chloride and hexadecylmethyltriammonium bromide .

The cationic surfactant(s) may also be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, it is useful to use salts such as the chloride salts of quaternary ammonium compounds.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain.

1. Among the examples of quaternary ammonium salts that can be mentioned in particular, we can include: those corresponding to the general formula below:

in which the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ , which are identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and, in certain embodiments, from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Aliphatic groups can include heteroatoms including oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₂ -C ₃₀ alkenyl, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxy(C ₂ -C ₆ alkylene), alkyl (in C ₁ -C ₃₀ ) amide, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl amido (C ₂ -C ₆ ) alkyl, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl acetate and C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl; X ^- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) sulfates and alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) aryl -sulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), those which are preferred are, on the one hand, the tetraalkylammonium salts, for example the dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.

1. a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula below:

in which R ₁₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R ₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkyl group or alkenyl comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₁₄ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups, in certain embodiments, respectively comprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms. R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ , in certain embodiments, denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R ₁₄ , in certain embodiments, denotes a methyl group, and R ₁₅ , in certain embodiments, denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is marketed, for example, under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company Rewo;

1. a diammonium or quaternary triammonium salt, in particular of formula:

in which R ₁₆ denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R ₁₇ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N-(CH ₂ ) ₃ , R _16a , R _17a , R _18a , R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , identical or different , being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, marketed by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, marketed by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),

1. Cationic/cationizable surfactants, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer, for example of the general structure R ₄ -AR ₅ — B

in which R ₄ is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain containing 8 to 24 C atoms, R ₅ is a linear or branched alkyl chain containing 1 to 4 C atoms, A is chosen from:

and B is selected from

in which R ₆ and R ₇ , identical or different, are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and

in which R ₈ and R ₉ are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, R ₁₀ is a chain alkyl with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms.

In some cases, R ₄ is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain with 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in some embodiments, 12 to 22 carbon atoms and R ₅ is a linear or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and A, B, R ₆ to R ₁₀ are the same as above.

Des exemples convenables non limitatifs sont stéaryloxypropylamine, palmityloxypropylamine, stéaryloxypropyldiméthylamine, stéaryloxypropyldiéthylamine, stéaryloxyéthyldiméthylamine, stéaryloxyéthylamine, myristyloxypropylamine, myristyloxypropyldiméthylamine, palmitamidopropylamine, palmitamidopropyl méthylamine, palmitamidopropyl diéthylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl butylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyéthylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyéthylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine , palmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropylamine, lauramidopropyl methylamine, lauramidopropyl diethylamine, lauramidopropyl dibutylamine, lauramidopropyl butylamine, lauramidopropyl dipropylamine, lauramidopropyl propylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearamidopropyl amine, ste aramidopropyl diméthylamine, stéaramidopropyl diéthylamine, stéaramidopropyldibutylamine, stéaramidopropyl butylamine, stéaramidopropyl dipropylamine, béhénamidopropyl propylamine, béhénamidopropyl dihydroxyéthylamine, béhénamidopropyl hydroxyéthylamine, béhénamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, béhénamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, béhénamidopropyl amine, béhénamidopropyl méthylamine, béhénamidopropyl diéthylamine, béhénamidopropyl dibutylamine, béhénamidopropyl butylamine, béhénamidopropyl dipropylamine, béhénamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl methylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl ethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl butylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl propylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauramidopropyl amine, dilauramidopropyl butylidopropylaura methylamine hydroxyethylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearamidopropyl amine, distearamidopropyl methylamine, dibehenamidopropyl propylamine, dibehenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenamidopropyl trihydroxyethalmonium chloride, distearylamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetylamidodihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, palmitoylpropylamine palmitoylpropyl diethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dibutylamine, palmitoylpropyl butylamine, palmitoylpropyl dipropylamine, palmitoylpropyl propylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl amine, myristoylpropyl methylamine, myristoylpropyl diethylamine, myristoylpropyl dibutylamine, myristoylpropyl butylamine, myristoylristo propylamine, myristoylpropylamine dihydroxyéthylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxyéthylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, stéaroylpropylamine, stéaroylpropyl méthylamine, stéaroylpropyl diéthylamine, stéaroylpropyl dibutylamine, stéaroylpropyl butylamine, stéaroylpropyl dipropylamine, béhénylpropyl propylamine, béhénylpropyl dihydroxyéthylamine, béhénylpropyl hydroxyéthylamine, béhénylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, béhénylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, béhénylpropyl amine, béhénylpropyl méthylamine, béhénylpropyl diéthylamine, béhénylpropyl dibutylamine, béhénylpropyl butylamine, béhénylpropyl dipropylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl méthylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl éthylamine, dipalmitylpropyl butylamine, dipalmitylpropyl propylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxyéthylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauroylpropyl amine, dilauroylpropyl méthylamine, dilauroylpropyl butylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxyéthylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, distéarylpropyl amine, distéarylpropyl methylamine, dibehenylpropyl propylamine, dibehenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitylpropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearylpropyl-trimethylammonium chloride, behenylpropyl-trihydroxyethalmonium chloride, distearylpropyl-dimethylammonium chloride, dicetyldihydroxyethylammonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

The cationizable surfactants or the amphiphilic surfactants can be chosen from fatty alkylamines, in certain embodiments, fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the fatty dialkylamines can be fatty dimethylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl sulfamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts and mixtures thereof. Des exemples non limitatifs incluent oléamidopropyl diméthylamine, linoléamidopropyl diméthylamine, isostéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, oléyl hydroxyéthyl imidazoline, stéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiméthylamine, arachidamidopropyldiméthylamine, arachidamido-propyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiméthylamine, brassicamidopropyldiméthylamine, lauramidopropyl diméthylamine, myristamidopropyl diméthylamine, dilinoléamidopropyl diméthylamine et palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Non-polymeric mono-, di- and/or tri-carboxylic acids can be used to "neutralize" fatty dialkylamines. In some instances, the one or more nonpolymeric mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid. Non-limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid and mixtures thereof. In particular, lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

fatty alcohol

According to the disclosure, the compositions of this document include at least one fatty alcohol.

By “fatty alcohol”, is meant an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylene (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylene) nor glycerolated. The fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohol(s) can be liquid(s) or solid(s). In some cases, it is preferable that the hair cosmetic compositions include at least one solid fatty alcohol. Useful solid fatty alcohols include those which are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and which are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a solubility in water. water less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25° C., 1 atm.

Solid fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

In particular, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture: lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetyl stearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

Liquid fatty alcohols, in particular C ₁₀ -C ₃₄ fatty alcohols, preferably have branched carbon chains and/or have one or more, preferably 1 to 3, double bonds. They are preferably branched and/or unsaturated (C=C double bond), and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.

Liquid fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C=C C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ double bond), R being optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. These alcohols include oleyl alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl- 1-ketanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.

In certain cases, the hair cosmetic compositions include one or more fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricylic and a mixture thereof. In some cases, hair cosmetic compositions preferably include cetearyl alcohol.

According to the various embodiments, the amount of each of the at least one fatty alcohol is from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, or from about 2 to about 9% by weight, or from about 3 to about 8% by weight, or about 3.5 to about 7% by weight, or about 4 to about 7% by weight, or about 4.5 to about 6.5% by weight, or about 5 to about 6% by weight, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

In certain preferred embodiments, the total amount of the at least one fatty alcohol is at least 3% by weight, or at least 3.5% by weight, or at least 4% by weight, or at least 4.5% by weight, or at least 5% by weight, or at least 5.5% by weight, or at least 6% by weight, or is in an amount of about 3 to about 10% by weight, or from about 3.5 to about 10% by weight, or from about 4 to about 9% by weight, or from about 4.5 to about 8.5% by weight, or about 4.5 to about 8% by weight, or about 5 to about 7.5% by weight, or about 5.5 to about 7% by weight, or about 5.5 to about 7% by weight, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Thus, any one of the at least one fatty alcohol is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in an amount of approximately 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5 , 5.8, 6, 6.2, 6.5, 7, 7.5 or 8% by weight.

Cosmetically acceptable solvent

The cosmetically acceptable solvent can be chosen from water, organic solvents or mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent in the compositions of the present invention comprises water.

In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent in the compositions of the present invention comprises at least one organic solvent.

In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent in the compositions of the present invention comprises water and at least one organic solvent.

Water

The amount of water in the hair cosmetic compositions can be at least 50% by weight, or about 50 to about 95% by weight, about 50 to about 90% by weight, about 60 to about 90% by weight, from about 70 to about 88% by weight, from about 75 to about 86% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, including the intermediate ranges and subranges.

Organic solvents

Non-limiting examples of organic solvents include, for example, alcohols (e.g., C _1-15 , C _1-10 or C _1-6 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols and glycols (e.g. glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc. and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of organic solvents include monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycerine or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ethers , monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example ether monoethyl or diethylene glycol monobutyl ether. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

Other non-limiting examples of organic solvents include alkanediols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2 -pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, mono -iso-propyl of propylene glycol, mono-methyl ether of dipropylene glycol, mono-ethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, mono-n-propyl ether of dipropylene glycol and mono-iso-propyl ether of dipropylene glycol; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethylsulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and a mixture thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1 ,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture of these. Polyol compounds can also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-Methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2- ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.

In some embodiments, the at least one organic solvent (non-silicone solvents) includes one or more of propylene glycol, glycerin, ethanol, isopropanol, caprylyl glycol, and benzyl alcohol.

The total amount of organic solvent(s) in the hair cosmetic composition, if present, may vary but is typically about 0.01 to about 10% by weight , relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of water-soluble solvent(s) is about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, d about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, or about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, including all ranges and subranges in between, per relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent in the compositions of the present invention comprises water and an organic solvent chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol or ethanol or a mixture of these.

In one embodiment, the at least one organic solvent is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0, 5 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent in the compositions of the present invention comprises water and glycerin and/or another higher molecular weight glycol. When present, the glycerin and/or other higher molecular weight glycol is in an amount of about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, about 0.05 to about 1.5% by weight , from about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 0.8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 0.6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 0.5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 0.4 wt%, or about 0.1 to about 0.3 wt%, including all ranges and subranges in between, based on total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent in the compositions of the present invention comprises water, propylene glycol and glycerin.

Amino functional silicones

Silicones can be hydrophobic or, in some cases, functionalized to be hydrophilic. Preferably, the silicones of the hair treatment compositions are amino functional silicones. The term "amino functional silicone" means a silicone containing at least one primary amino, secondary amino, tertiary amino and/or quaternary ammonium group. The structure of the amino-functional silicone can be linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic. The amino functional group can be found at any position in the silicone molecule, preferably at the end of the backbone (e.g. in the case of amodimethicones) and/or in the side chain.

In some cases, the amino functional silicones are chosen from the compounds of the following formula:

wherein each R ¹ is independently selected from C _1-30 alkyl, C _1-30 alkoxy, C _5-30 aryl, C _6-30 aralkyl, C aralkyloxy _6-30 , a C _1-30 alkaryl group, a C _1-30 alkoxyaryl group and a hydroxy group (preferably, each R ¹ is independently selected from a C _1-30 alkyl group, a C 1-30 alkoxy group _1-30 and a hydroxy group);

each R ² is independently a divalent alkylene radical having one to ten carbon atoms (preferably, R ² is a divalent alkylene radical having three to six carbon atoms);

each R ³ is independently selected from a C _1-30 alkyl group, a C _5-30 aryl group, a C _6-30 aralkyl group and a C _1-30 alkaryl group (preferably each R ³ is independently selected from a C _1-30 alkyl group);

Q is a monovalent radical chosen from NR ⁴ ₂ and NR ⁴ (CH ₂ ) _× NR ⁴ ₂ ;

each R ⁴ is independently selected from hydrogen and C _1-4 alkyl;

x is from 2 to 6;

z is 0 or 1;

n is 25 to 3000 (preferably 25 to 2000; more preferably 25 to 1000; most preferably 25 to 500); and

m is 0 to 3000 (preferably 0 to 2000, more preferably 0 to 1000, most preferably 0 to 100);

provided that at least 50 mole % of the total number of R ¹ and R ³ groups are methyl groups and provided that when m is 0, z is 1.

Preferred R ¹ groups include methyl, methoxy, ethyl, ethoxy, propyl, propoxy, isopropyl, isopropoxy, butyl, butoxy, isobutyl, isobutoxy, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl and hydroxy. Preferred R ² divalent alkylene radicals include trimethylene, tetramethylene, pentamethylene, CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ - and CH ₂ CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -. Preferred R ³ groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl and tolyl. Preferred R ⁴ groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutyl. When z is 0, the amino-functional silicone has only pendant amine-functional substituents in the polymer chain. When z is 1, the amino-functional silicone can have only terminal amine-functional substituents (eg, m = 0) or can have both terminal and pendent amine-functional substituents in the polymer chain (eg, m >0). Preferably, n + m is 50 to 1000. More preferably, n + m is 50 to 750. Even more preferably, n + m is 50 to 500. Most preferably, n + m is 50 to 250.

In some cases, the amino functional silicones are alkoxylated and/or hydroxylated amino silicones. The suitable alkoxylated and/or hydroxylated amino silicones can be chosen from compounds having a structure according to the following formula:

in which R ₃ is a hydroxyl or OR ₅ , R ₅ is a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group, R ₄ is a group having a structure according to the following formula:

,

wherein R ₆ is C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, n is 1 to 4, x is the same as "n" described above, and y is the same as "m" described above.

Non-limiting examples of amino-functional silicones include bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C _13-15 alkoxy)PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG/PPG- 41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones and a mixture thereof. In some cases, a particularly useful amino-functional silicone is bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone, where X is isobutyl and one of the Rs is OH and the other is OCH ₃ in the structure above, also known as the name "bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone" and "3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, di-Me, terminated with [(hydroxydimethylsilyl)oxy]- and [(methoxydimethylsilyl)oxy]- ". Bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone is commercially available under the trademark DOWSIL AP-8087 FLUID from The Dow Chemical Company.

The silicone of the hair treatment composition may, in some cases, include polydiorganosiloxanes, for example polydimethylsiloxanes having the CTFA designation dimethicone. Other silicones which may be suitable for hair treatment compositions include (particularly for shampoos and conditioners) polydimethylsiloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol. Silicone gums can, in some cases, be included in hair treatment compositions, such as those with a slight degree of cross-linking. Non-limiting examples of silicone gums which may optionally be included are described in WO 96/31188, which is incorporated herein by reference for all purposes.

The silicone(s) may have a viscosity of at least 10,000 cst, such as at least 50,000 cst, at least 100,000 cst, at least 200,000 cst, at least 400,000 cst, at least 800,000 cst, at least 1,000,000 cst, or at least 2,000,000 cst. Preferably, the viscosity does not exceed 10 ⁹ cst to facilitate formulation.

The hair treatment composition can include preformed emulsions of silicones, such as XIAMETER 2-8299 emulsions (Dow Corning/Dow Chemical), BELSIL ADM 4000 E (Wacker), DC2-1766, DC2-1784, and DC2 microemulsions -1865 and DC2-1870 from Dow Corning, or cross-linked silicone gums, such as DC X2-1787 or DC X2-1391 from Dow Corning.

In one embodiment, the amino functional silicone of the compositions of the present invention includes amodimethicone. Amodimethicone may be commercially available as an emulsion comprising amodimethicone, trideceth-6 and cetrimonium chloride under the trade names XIAMETER 2-8299 or DOWSIL 2-8299 (Dow Corning/Dow Chemical) . Amodimethicone may also be available as an emulsion under the brand name BELSIL ADM 4000 E (Wacker).

According to the various embodiments, the amount of the at least one amino functional silicone is from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, or preferably from about 0.3 to about 2.5% by weight, or more preferably about 0.4 to about 2% by weight, or more preferably about 0.5 to about 1.5% by weight, or any combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range suitable thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will understand that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

Thus, any one of the at least one amino-functional silicone is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, in an amount of about 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25 , 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.5, 0.55, 0.6, 0.65, 0.7, 0.75, 0.8, 0.85, 0 .9, 0.95, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1 , 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, up to approximately 3% by weight, inclusive increments and ranges and intermediaries.

Fatty compounds

The at least one fatty compound of the compositions of the present invention can be chosen from vegetable oils, vegetable butters, vegetable triglycerides or mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of vegetable or herbal oils include acai oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, andiroba oil, annatto oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, borage oil, brazil nut oil, buriti oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, copaiba oil, emu oil, passion fruit oil, almond oil, castor oil, walnut oil coconut, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, rosehip oil, ajowan oil, angelica root oil, anise oil, aragan oil, asafetida oil, oil balsam oil, basil oil, laurel oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, buchu oil, birch oil, camphor oil, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, seed oil carrot oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, lemongrass oil, clary sage oil, clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander oil, rosemary oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb oil, cumin oil, cypress oil, cypriol, curry oil, davana oil, dill oil, elecampane oil, olive oil eucalyptus, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir oil, frankincense oil, galangal oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, goldenrod oil, grapefruit oil, henna oil, oil oil, horseradish oil, hyssop oil, idaho tansy oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, citronella oil, marjoram oil, melaleuca oil, oil lemon balm, mountain savory oil, mugwort oil, mustard oil, myrrh oil, myrtle oil, neem oil, neroli oil, nutmeg oil, orange oil, oregano oil, lemon oil 'orris oil, palo santo oil, parsley oil, patchouli oil, perilla oil, pennyroyal oil, peppermint oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, plum oil, ravensara oil, red cedar oil, roman chamomile oil, rose oil, rosehip oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, sassafras oil, savory oil, schisandra oil, nard oil, spruce oil, star anise oil, tangerine oil, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, tsuga oil, turmeric oil, valerian, vetiver oil, western red cedar oil, wintergreen oil, yarrow oil, ylang-ylang oil and zedoary oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, marula oil, corn, argan oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, arara oil, shea butter oil and rapeseed oil.

The fatty compounds suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention can also be chosen from herbal or vegetable butters such as shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter , (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter , painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), apricot butter avocado (Persea grati ssima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter.

In a preferred embodiment, the suitable vegetable fatty compound of the present invention is chosen from shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii).

The total amount of vegetable fat compounds in the composition can vary but is typically about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 9% by weight, or about 0.2 to about 8% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 7% by weight, or from about 0.4 to about 7% by weight, or from about 0.4 to about 6.5% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 4.5% by weight, or about 0.8 to about 4.2% by weight, or about 1 to about 4% by weight, or about 1.2 to about 4% by weight, or about 1.2 to about 3.5% by weight, or about 1.5 to about 3% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, or about 1.5 to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including the ranges and intermediate sub-ranges.

Thus, the fatty compounds are present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in an amount of approximately 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3, 3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5 up about 5% by weight, including inclusive and intermediate increments and ranges.

esters

The esters can be chosen from fatty esters, cetyl esters, isopropyl esters, glyceryl (glycerol) esters, dialkyl esters, diesters with octanoic acid and propylene glycol (for example, mixture of propylene glycol diesters of caprylic and capric acids , INCI: propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate), or mixtures thereof.

Thus, the total amount of esters in the composition can vary, but is typically about 0.01 to about 6% by weight, such as about 0.05 to about 5.5% by weight, or about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, or about 0.05 to about 4.5% by weight, or about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, or about 0.2 to about 3.5% by weight, or about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or about 4 to about 2.5% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including the ranges and subranges in between.

Additional ingredients

The compositions of the present invention may further include additional/optional ingredients such as nonionic surfactants.

The nonionic surfactants can be chosen from alkoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-3, oleth-10, oleth-20, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-10, PPG-1, trideceth-6, laureth-12, steareth -20, and combinations thereof.

Other components

In one or more embodiments, the hair cosmetic compositions described herein may contain one or more additional ingredients (additives and miscellaneous ingredients). Examples include, but are not limited to, amphoteric surfactants, anionic surfactants other than surfactants having two or more carboxylate salt groups, emulsifiers (such as sorbitan esters or polysorbates), thickeners (such as polysaccharides other than cationic guar gums), film forming agents, other polymers such as cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, polyquaternium compounds such as polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-67, etc. ), proteins, hydrolyzed proteins, amino acids, fragrance, pH adjusters, chelators and preservatives.

In one embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of a leave-in product such as a curly hair care product (such as styling creams), an anti-frizz hair product, or a rinse-out or leave-in mask or treatment product.

In one embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of a rinse-out product such as a conditioner product or a mask product or a shampoo-conditioner product (2 in 1).

In one embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of a leave-in product such as a hair or skin treatment product.

In one embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of a leave-in or rinse-out conditioner.

In one embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of a cream.

In one embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of an emulsion such as an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion. In one embodiment, the emulsion is in the form of a cream or lotion.

pH and viscosity

The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure has a pH ranging from about 2.5 to less than about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.8 or from about 3 to about 4.5, or from about 3 .2 to about 4.5 or from about 3 to about 4, including intermediate ranges and subranges.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure has a pH of about 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3 .3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4 .6, 4.7, 4.8 or 4.9.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure has an initial viscosity (after preparation of the composition) of equal to or greater than 1 Pa.s, or about 1 to about 100 Pa.s, or about 1 to about 50 Pa.s, or about 1 to about 30 Pa.s, or about 1 to about 20 Pa.s, including intermediate ranges and subranges, at approximately equal shear rate or greater than 10 (1/s) and less than 10 ² 1/s as measured by a rheometer (DHR-2, TA instruments, New Castle, DE, USA).

In one embodiment, when the composition is diluted at least 3 times, the viscosity of the composition drops to a viscosity of less than 10 Pa.s, such as from less than 10 to about 1 Pa.s, or to about 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, or 1 Pa.s, at a shear rate greater than 10 ¹ (1/s) and less than 10 ² 1/s as measured by a rheometer (DHR -2, TA instruments, New Castle, DE, USA).

Processes

Another aspect of the invention relates to methods of using the cosmetic compositions described herein. In particular, when the cosmetic compositions are intended to be applied to the hair, that is to say they are hair cosmetic compositions, the methods generally comprise the application to the hair of any of described cosmetic compositions. Hair cosmetic compositions can be useful in a variety of contexts, and either for chemically treated or pre-alkalized hair or for untreated hair. Pre-alkalized hair can include hair relaxed/chemically straightened or chemically tinted or bleached or lightened/highlighted, i.e. hair treated with products that result in raising the pH of the hair up to an alkaline pH. Use of the compositions of the present invention on the hair may include as part of a shampoo, part of a conditioner or as a conditioner, as a pre-treatment, or after cleansing or conditioning or washed the hair, or as a treatment for the care of curly hair or as a mask treatment with or without rinsing.

Methods of treating hair according to the disclosure may include applying a hair cosmetic composition of the present disclosure to hair (wet, damp or dry hair), leaving the hair treatment on the hair for a sufficient , and rinsing out the hair cosmetic composition or leaving the hair treatment on the hair as a leave-in product. The hair cosmetic composition can be applied to the hair before, during or after other hair cosmetic compositions (for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, a mask, a cream, a lotion, a gel, etc.)

The hair cosmetic composition can remain on the hair for a certain time, for example from about a few seconds (1, 3, 5 or 10 seconds) to about 10, 20 or 30 minutes, or longer, for example up to about one o'clock, or until about two o'clock, or until about three o'clock, or until about four o'clock, or until about five o'clock, or until about six o'clock, or until about seven o'clock , or until about eight o'clock, or until about twelve o'clock, or all night.

Hair cosmetic compositions can be useful for treating chemically treated hair.

The individual application of a hair cosmetic composition or the combined or layered application of a hair cosmetic composition with another composition is described above. In some cases, a hair cosmetic composition is applied individually to the hair and is also combined or superimposed with another composition which is also applied to the hair.

Kits

The hair cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure can be incorporated into a kit. For example, the kits can include at least one hair cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure. Kits may also include one or more hair cosmetic compositions (according to the present disclosure), such as a shampoo and/or conditioner and/or a mask and/or other hair styling treatment product.

Implementation of this disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. The examples serve to illustrate the technology without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and illustrative only. The amounts of ingredients in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Several formulas have been produced with the ingredients listed in the tables below. The balance of all the formulas was water.

Example I: Compositions

[Table 1]

Examples of formulations] TYPE OF INGREDIENT INGREDIENT INCI NAME EX. HAS
(invention) EX. B
(invention) EX. VS
(invention) ANIONIC SURFACTANT SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE(1) 1.7 0.9 1 CATIONIC SURFACTANT BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 1.2 1.2 2.1 CATIONIC SURFACTANT CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE </=0.1 </=0.1 </=0.1 FATTY ALCOHOL CETEARYL ALCOHOL 4.0 4.0 5.8 SILICONE AMODIMETHICONE(2) AND/ORAMODIMETHICONE(3) 1.0 1.0 1.4 FAT COMPOUND COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL 0.7 0.7 - AMINO ACID ARGININE 0.2 - - NON-IONIC SURFACTANTS ONE OR MORE OF ALKOXYLATED FATTY ALCOHOLS, SORBITAN DERIVATIVES, POLYETHYLENE GYCOL ESTER OF FATTY ACIDS (OR ALKOXYLATED CARBOXYLIC ACIDS) </=10 </=10 </=10 ORGANIC SOLVENTS ONE OR MORE OF GLYCERIN, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL, DENAT. ALCOHOL < 2 < 2 < 2 MISCELLANEOUS ADDITIVES OR INGREDIENTS ONE OR MORE OF PRESERVATIVES, pH ADJUSTERS, CHELANTS, COLORANTS, SALT, FRAGRANCE, VITAMINS, PLANT EXTRACTS, PROTEINS/AMINO ACIDS/PROTEIN HYDROLYSATES < 5 < 5 < 5 WATER QS100 QS100 QS

(1) commercially available under the trade name AMISOFT HS 11 PF from the Ajinomoto company.

(2) commercially available under the trade name DOWSIL AP-8568 AMINO FLUID or DC 2-8566 AMINO FLUID or DOW CORNING AP-8568 AMINO FLUID from Dow Corning/DOW Chemical Company) or under the trade name BELSIL ADM 1370 from the Wacker company

(3) commercially available under the trade name XIAMETER MEM-8299 EMULSION from the company Dow Corning/DOW Chemical) or under the trade name BELSIL ADM 4000 E from the company Wacker.

[Table 2]

Examples of comparative formulations] TYPE OF INGREDIENT INGREDIENT INCI NAME EX. D EX. E EX. F EX. G EX. H ANIONIC SURFACTANT SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE(1) 0.1 0.2 - - - CATIONIC SURFACTANT BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 1.2 2.1 1.2 1.2 2.5 CATIONIC SURFACTANT CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE </=0.1 </=0.1 </=0.1 </=0.1 </=0.1 FATTY ALCOHOL CETEARYL ALCOHOL 4.0 5.8 4.0 4.0 >/==6 SILICONE AMODIMETHICONE(2) AND/OR AMODIMETHICONE(3) 1.0 1.4 1.0 1.0 2.0 FAT COMPOUND/VEGETABLE OIL COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL AND/OR ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL 0.7 - 0.7 0.7 0.1 NON-IONIC SURFACTANT ONE OR MORE OF ALKOXYLATED FATTY ALCOHOLS, SORBITAN DERIVATIVES, POLYETHYLENE GYCOL ESTER OF FATTY ACIDS (OR ALKOXYLATED CARBOXYLIC ACIDS) - 0.1 - - 0.2 AMINO ACID ARGININE - - - 0.2 - ANIONIC SURFACTANT/
FATTY ACID
PALMITIC ACID - - - 0.5 - STEARIC ACID - - - 0.6 - MYRISTIC ACID - - - 0.0 - ORGANIC SOLVENTS ONE OR MORE OF GLYCERIN, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL, DENAT. ALCOHOL < 2 < 2 < 2 < 2 < 2 MISCELLANEOUS ADDITIVES OR INGREDIENTS ONE OR MORE OF PRESERVATIVES, pH ADJUSTERS, CHELANTS, NONIONIC SURFACTANTS, COLORANTS, SALT, FRAGRANCE, VITAMINS, PLANT EXTRACTS, PROTEINS/AMINO ACIDS/PROTEIN HYDROLYSATES < 5 < 5 < 5 < 5 < 5 WATER QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

The composition manufacturing process ' invention :

The examples of the invention were prepared according to the following general procedure:

The formulation was prepared by:

- heating the water to approximately 70°C,

- then at around 70°C, addition of benzoic acid, arginine, cetearyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, sodium stearoyl glutamate, amodimethicone and fatty oil, with a waiting time between each compound until the compound added liquefied before adding the next,

- once all the compounds have been dispersed, cooling to around 50°C,

- addition of other optional ingredients and additives (preservatives, organic solvent, surfactants, perfumes and tints, etc.)

- then continued cooling to ambient temperature, and

- pH adjustment, if necessary.

The pH of the inventive formulas made according to the above method ranged from about 2.5 to less than 5. The stability of the inventive formulas was also checked after 2 months at 45°C and 4°C, respectively, it is that is, there was no phase separation or precipitation, even when they contained a cationic compound (cationic surfactant) and an anionic compound/surfactant.

Example II : viscosity, pH and dilution studies

The following table shows the changes in properties of the inventive formulations such as texture and viscosities when their pH was changed and/or when the formulations were diluted with water. The viscosities of the formulations were measured using a rheometer (DHR-2, TA instruments, New Castle, DE, USA) and a 40 mm parallel plate geometry. A space of 1 mm between the parallel plates was chosen. All the tests were carried out at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure. The sample was subjected to a shear ramp starting from 0.1 1/s up to 1000 1/s in a period of 300 seconds. The time interval between data points is 1 s. The shear stress response was recorded for each data point.

The pH of the formulations has been modified or adjusted by adding sodium hydroxide solution or other suitable pH modifiers.

The textures of the formulations were evaluated using a polarized microscope.

EX. HAS
(invention) EX. B
(invention) EX. VS
(invention) EX. D
(comparative) EX. E
(comparative) EX. F
(comparative) EX. G
(comparative) EX. H
(comparative) MOLAR RATIO BETWEEN CATIONIC SURFACTANT AND ANIONIC SURFACTANT 0.8 or
1:1.26
(< 1) 1.6 or
1:0.63
(> 1) 2.26 or 1:0.44
(> 1) 12.3 11.4 - 0.83* - Composition pH (undiluted) 4.8 3.4 3.3 3.2, 3.0 3.4 3.8 5.1 Viscosity range (Pa•s) for a shear rate of 10 to 1 x 10 ³ 1/s 16.8-0.07 10.3-0.11 1.8-0.12 5.8-0.13 2.1-0.073 5.1-0.15 4.2-0.34 4.8-0.18 Comp texture Lamellar and creamy structure Lamellar and creamy structure Lamellar and creamy structure Lamellar and creamy structure Lamellar and creamy structure Lamellar and creamy structure Lamellar and creamy structure Lamellar and creamy structure Change in pH Change in the pH of the composition decreased to 3.5 increased to 5.4 increases
at 5.5 increases
at 5.7 decreases
at 5.3 increases
at 6.2 increases
at 5.8 increased to 7.7 decreases
at 3.6 Viscosity and texture of the composition after modification of the pH the viscosity decreased significantly and the structure dissociated, phase separation viscosity decreased significantly and structure dissociated, phase separation/precipitation the viscosity decreased significantly and the structure dissociated, phase separation the change in viscosity was very small and the lamellar structure remained intact the change in viscosity was very small and the lamellar structure remained intact the change in viscosity was very small and the lamellar structure remained intact the change in viscosity was very small and the lamellar structure remained intact the change in viscosity was very small and the lamellar structure remained intact ** 3x dilution with external water Viscosity range (Pa•s) for a shear rate of 10 to 1 x 10 ³ 1/s after pH change 0.33-0.012 0.25-0.013 0.63-0.039 4.9-0.11 1.96-0.066 3.9-0.13 7.0-0.16 5.0-0.12 5.1-0.22 Viscosity after 3x dilution Viscosity decreased significantly Viscosity decreased significantly Viscosity decreased significantly Viscosity decreased significantly Viscosity change was very small Viscosity decreased significantly Viscosity decreased significantly Viscosity change was very small Viscosity range (Pa•s) for 10 to 1 x 10 ³ 1/s shear rate after 3x dilution 0.74-0.013 0.48-0.036 0.48-0.022 0.16-0.028 1.85-0.059 0.42-0.069 0.32-0.022 4.3-0.07

The data in Table 3 can be viewed in Figures 1 through 8. Inventive compositions Ex. A through C each had a pH of less than 5. Composition Ex. A employed a molar ratio of cationic surfactants to anionic surfactants of less than 1 and a pH greater than 4. Compositions Ex. B and C each employed a molar ratio of cationic surfactants to anionic surfactants greater than 1 (more than 1 to 10 or less) and a pH less than 4.

The [Fig. 1] shows the significant decrease in the viscosity of the inventive composition Ex. A when the pH was decreased to less than 4, that is to say from 4.8 to 3.5 ( ) or when the composition was diluted 3 times ( ). The [Fig. 2] shows the significant decrease in the viscosity of the inventive composition Ex. B when the pH was increased above 5, i.e. from 3.4 to 5.4 ( ) or when the composition was diluted 3 times ( ). The [Fig. 3] shows the significant decrease in the viscosity of the inventive composition Ex. C when the pH was increased to more than 5, that is to say from 3.3 to 5.5 ( ) or when the composition was diluted 3 times ( ). The decrease in viscosity allows for easier spreading and application to a surface such as the surface of hair fibers, resulting in better and even deposition of active agents and/or conditioning agents onto the surface. The drop in viscosity also allows easier and faster removal of the composition from the surface (fast washing or rinsing effect). The cleaning or rinsing process therefore requires less water. These effects are particularly useful for chemically treated hair (or pre-alkalized hair) that has been previously treated with hair dyes or relaxers that are typically alkaline and typically have residual alkalinity. Treatment of pre-alkalized hair with the inventive compositions results in a change or increase in pH which allows the viscosity to decrease as the composition is spread over the pre-alkalized hair.

At the same time, the comparative compositions Ex. E, D, F, G, and H were tested and compared to the compositions Ex. A, B and C. The compositions Ex. D and E had a pH lower than 5, contained very little anionic surfactants (0.1 to 0.2% by weight), and had a molar ratio between cationic surfactants and anionic surfactants greater than 10 (i.e. 12.3 and 11, 4, respectively). Compositions Ex. F and H had a pH below 5 and zero anionic surfactants. Composition Ex. G had a pH greater than 5 and a molar ratio between cationic surfactants and anionic surfactants (fatty acid with a single carboxylic group) less than 1 (i.e. 0.83).

When the pH was increased above 5 for each of the comparative compositions Ex. E, D, F, G and H, they showed only very small changes in viscosity ( , 5A, 6A, 7A and 8A). Furthermore, when the pH of composition Ex. H was decreased from 5.1 to less than 5 (i.e. 3.6), there was also very little change in viscosity ( ). These results show that these compositions are not reactive to pH changes. Thus, even when applied to pre-alkalized hair (for example, hair treated with hair dyes or relaxers that are typically alkaline and typically have residual alkalinity) or even when brought into contact with with an alkaline or acidic composition, the applicability and spreadability of compositions Ex. D, E, F, G and H on the hair can be expected not to change or improve. The results also indicate that there would be no change or impact on the efficiency or the rate of removal or rinsing of these compositions on the keratinous substrates treated with these compositions, even when exposed to significant changes in pH.

When the comparative compositions were diluted three times with water, Ex. D, F and G showed significant decreases in viscosity, while Ex. E and H showed very small changes in viscosity ( , 5B, 6B, 7B, and 8B). Thus, Ex. D, F and G were reactive to viscosity changes only during dilution of the compositions with water (but not pH reactive). On the other hand, Ex. E and H were not responsive to changes in pH or dilution of the compositions.

In conclusion, the inventive compositions have been found to be responsive to changes in pH or dilution with water, resulting in significant changes in the viscosity of the compositions.

When the molar ratio between the cationic surfactant and the anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups in the composition is greater than about 1 and less than 10 and the pH of the composition is increased either by applying the composition to hair pre -alkalized, either by combining it with an alkaline or basic composition (such as a hair dye composition), the viscosity of the composition decreases significantly. When the molar ratio between the cationic surfactant and the anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups in the composition is less than about 1 and the pH of the composition is decreased, the viscosity of the composition also decreases significantly. In both cases, the reduction in viscosity makes it possible to improve the spreadability and the ease of application of the composition on the hair.

When the molar ratio of cationic surfactant to anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups in the composition is greater than about 1 and less than 10 and the composition is diluted with water (as in cleaning activities or hair conditioning), the viscosity of the composition decreases significantly. This also makes it possible to improve the spreadability and the ease of application of the composition on the hair.

At the same time, the compositions become easier to remove or rinse/wash from the hair (quick wash or quick rinse effect).

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the invention. The disclosure only shows and describes the preferred embodiments, but it should be understood that the invention may be used in various other combinations, modifications and environments and may be subject to changes or modifications within the scope of the inventive concepts. as expressed herein, based on the above teachings and/or skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described above are further intended to explain the best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments and with the various modifications required by particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein.

As used herein, the terms "comprising", "having" and "including" (or "include", "have" and "include") are used in their open and non-limiting sense. The phrase "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to specified materials or steps and those that do not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the claimed invention.

.

Salts mentioned throughout the disclosure can include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium counterion. However, this list of counterions is not exhaustive.

The term “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The term "plurality" means "more than one" or "two or more".

The term "tenacious" or "long-lasting" or "durable" as used herein means that the cosmetic attribute or effect was observed for up to about 30 minutes or up to about one hour or up to about two hours, or until about three hours or until about four hours or until about five hours or until about six hours or until about seven hours or until about eight hours or until about 12 hours or after a period of one night from when the composition of the present disclosure was applied to the hair on a person's head and the hair was subjected to changes in shape, hairstyle or configuration, and/or hair fiber disturbance and/or hair fiber movement resulting from sleeping or lying down and resting the head on a bed or other surface or on the back of a seat and/or wearing a cap or headgear for at least 30 minutes and for several hours or overnight.

Some of the various component categories identified for hair treatment compositions may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and where the composition/product includes two overlapping components (or more than two overlapping components), one overlapping component does not represent more than one component. For example, a fatty acid can be defined as both a "fatty compound" and a "surfactant/emulsifier". If a particular composition/product includes both a fatty compound component and an emulsifier component, a single fatty acid may serve only as a fatty compound or as a surfactant/emulsifier (a single fatty acid does not serve as both a fatty compound and an emulsifier). surfactant/emulsifier).

All percentages, parts and ratios given herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described here that falls within a range described here can be used as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc. Also, all ranges provided are meant to include each specific range within, as well as any combination of sub-ranges between given ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes points 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc ; and points 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 include ranges and subranges of 1-5, 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.

Except in the working examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are understood to be modified by "about", whether or not expressly indicated. . Further, all numbers are intended to represent exact digits as further embodiments, whether or not modified by "about". For example, "an amount of about 1%" includes an amount of exactly 1%. In another example, "an amount of 1%" includes an amount of approximately 1%. The term "approximately" is generally understood to encompass a range of +/- 10% from the number stated, and is intended to cover amounts of +/- 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9% and 10%.

The term "surfactants" includes the salts of surfactants, even if they are not explicitly mentioned. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant, it is understood that salts of the surfactant are also included to the extent such salts exist, even though the specification may not specifically refer to a salt ( or may not refer to a salt in each case throughout the disclosure), for example, using language such as "a salt thereof" or "salts thereof". Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants. However, other cations, such as ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions, such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, can also form surfactant salts.

The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein means that the specific material may be present in small amounts which do not materially affect the basic and novel features of the claimed invention. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the characteristics fundamental and novel to the claimed invention.Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2% by weight, less than 1.5% by weight, less than 1% by weight, less than 0.5% by weight, less than 0.3% by weight, less than 0.1% by weight, less than 0.05% by weight, or less than 0.01% by weight, or none of the specified material.In addition, all components which are positively presented in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components which are presented positively in this disclosure.

The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material which is included in the composition.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one anionic surfactant having at least 2 carboxylate salt groups;
(b) at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;
(c) at least one fatty alcohol; and
(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent chosen from water, organic solvents and mixtures thereof;
wherein the molar ratio of the at least one cationizable surfactant to the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from about 5:1 to about 1:5; and
wherein the pH of the composition is less than 5; and
in which the at least one cationic surfactant is present in an amount of approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and is chosen from:
- quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula below:

in which the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ , which are identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
- a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline;
- a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula:

in which R ₁₆ denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R ₁₇ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N-(CH ₂ ) ₃ , R _16a , R _17a , R _18a , R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , identical or different , being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X ⁻ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates; and
- cationizable surfactants, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer chosen from compounds of general structure R ₄ -AR ₅ -B,
in which R ₄ is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain containing 8 to 24 C atoms, R ₅ is a linear or branched alkyl chain containing 1 to 4 C atoms, A is chosen from:

and B is selected from

in which R ₆ and R ₇ , identical or different, are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and

in which R ₈ and R ₉ are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, R ₁₀ is a chain alkyl with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms,
- or mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which the at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least 2 carboxylate salt groups is represented by formula (I):
(I)
in which :
R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
X is -O ^- or an ester group, -COO ^- , or an amide group, -CONY where Y is hydrogen or an alkyl group,
m is 0 or 1 or 2,
n is an integer from 0 to 4,
M is hydrogen or a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counter anion. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or according to claim 2, in which the at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups is present in an amount of about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, based on the weight total of the cosmetic composition, and is chosen from sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, or a mixture thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one cationic surfactant is chosen from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride , chlorure de distéaryldimonium, chlorure de dicétyldimonium, chlorure de tricétylmonium, oléamidopropyl diméthylamine, linoléamidopropyl diméthylamine, isostéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, oléyl hydroxyéthyl imidazoline, stéaramidopropyl diméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiméthylamine, béhénamidopropyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiéthylamine, béhénamidoéthyldiméthylamine, arachidamidopropyldiméthylamine, arachidamido-propyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiéthylamine, arachidamidoéthyldiméthylamine, brassicamidopropyldiméthylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, or mixtures thereof; and
in which the at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount of approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition and is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (combination cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol), myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from about 1:0.9 to about 1:0.2; wherein the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from about 1:2 to about 1:1.1. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition additionally comprises:
- at least one silicone including at least one amino functional silicone chosen from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis -amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, or mixtures thereof; and in which the at least one silicone is present in an amount of approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and or
- at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, derivatives of sorbitan, polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acids (or alkoxylated carboxylic acids), or a mixture thereof and in which the at least one surfactant nonionic is present in an amount of about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and or
- at least one fatty compound is chosen from vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, esters, or a mixture thereof; and wherein the at least one fatty compound is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Process for treating the hair, the process comprising a step of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups;
(b) at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;
(c) at least one fatty alcohol;
(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;
(e) optionally, at least one silicone;
(f) optionally, at least one fatty compound selected from non-silicone oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and
wherein the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant is between about 5:1 and about 1:5. Process according to Claim 7, in which, when the keratinous substrate is a hair, the hair has been pre-alkalinized or has been previously brought into contact with an alkaline treatment. Process according to Claim 7, in which the process confers a rapid washing or rapid rinsing effect when the keratinous substrate is rinsed with water after the step of applying the cosmetic composition to the keratinous substrate. A method of improving or increasing the removability of a cosmetic composition from the hair, the method comprising combining;
(a) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant having at least two carboxylate salt groups;
(b) about 0.2 to about 5% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;
(c) about 2 to about 7% by weight of at least one selected fatty alcohol;
(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;
(e) optionally, at least one silicone;
(f) optionally, at least one nonionic surfactant; and
(g) optionally, at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and
to form, a cosmetic composition;
wherein the molar ratio between the at least one cationic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from about 5:1 to about 1:5;
wherein the composition has an initial viscosity (after preparation of the composition) equal to or greater than 1 Pa.s, at a shear rate greater than 10 (1/s) and less than 10 ² 1/s, as measured by a rheometer (DHR-2, TA instruments, New Castle, DE, USA); and
all weights being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.