FR3118714A1 - COMPOSITIONS FOR KERATIN FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITIONS FOR KERATIN FIBERS The present invention relates to a composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers comprising: (a) at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid; and (b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof. The present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with improved conditioning effects, in particular, greater strength of keratinous fibers. Figure for abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITIONS FOR KERATIN FIBERS

The present invention relates to a composition for the treatment, such as conditioning, of keratinous fibers such as the hair.

BACKGROUND OF THE ART

In the field of hair cosmetics, hair conditioning effects are very important properties. Various leave-in and leave-in cosmetic hair care products are used to condition the hair.

In order to enhance the aforementioned conditioning effects, it has been proposed to use an oligoester of a hydrogenated castor oil and a saturated dibasic acid.

Document JP-A-2006-124352 discloses a cosmetic composition for the hair comprising an oligoester of a hydrogenated castor oil and a saturated diprotic acid, and an oily agent.

However, there remains a need to improve the conditioning effects of the hair.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

An object of the present invention is to provide a composition which can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with improved conditioning effects, in particular greater strength of keratinous fibers.

The above objective can be achieved by a composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers comprising:

(a) at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid; And

(b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.

The hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride can be represented by the following formula (A)

in which

R ₁ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising for example from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and

R ₂ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising for example from 1 to 12 carbon atoms,

And

the saturated diacid is represented by the following formula (B)

in which

X ₁ is a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably a linear alkylene group -(CH ₂ )x- where x is an integer from 1 to 30, and preferably from 3 to 15.

The (a) oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid may be a castor oil/hydrogenated sebacic acid copolymer.

The amount of the oligomer(s) of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The (b) ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, can be chosen from esters of

following general formula (I):

R ₃ -OCO-R ₁ (-COO-R ₂ -OCO-R ₁ ) _n -COO-R ₃ (I)

in which :

COR ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

OR ₂ O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,

OR ₃ represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and

n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,

Or

following general formula (II):

(II)

in which :

n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,

COR' ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

OR' ₂ O represents a diglyceryl residue of general formula (III) below:

(III)

in which :

R' ₃ represents H or OR' ₃ represents a fatty acid residue,

Or

following general formula (IV):

HO-R _{1 '} -(-OCO-R ₂ ''-COO-R ₁ ''-) _h -OH(IV)

in which :

OR _{1 '} 'O represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dimer dilinoleic acid,

COR ₂ ''CO represents a fatty acid dimer residue, and

h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9.

The (b) ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, may be chosen from the group consisting of esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis -behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

The quantity of the ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or of its ester(s), in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.5 to 20 wt%, preferably 0.5 to 15 wt%, more preferably 0.5 to 10 wt%, and even more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt%, based on weight composition total.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (c) at least one aminosilicone. The (c) aminosilicone may have a degree of polymerization less than 2000.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) water.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol.

The composition according to the present invention may additionally comprise (g) at least one cationic surfactant.

The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-type hair cosmetic composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care or conditioning of keratinous fibers, preferably the hair, comprising the step:

application to the keratinous fibers of the composition according to the present invention.

The present invention also relates to a use of

(a) at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid; And

(b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof,

in a composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers to enhance or improve the conditioning effects of the composition for keratinous fibers.

There shows a schematic view of how to determine bending angles for Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Example 1.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

After careful research, the inventors have found that it is possible to provide a composition which can give keratinous fibers such as hair improved conditioning effects, in particular, greater strength of keratinous fibers.

Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers comprising:

(a) at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid; And

(b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.

The present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with improved conditioning effects, in particular, greater strength of keratinous fibers.

The composition according to the present invention can also give the keratinous fibers an improved smoothness.

Thus, the present invention is useful for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibres, preferably for the conditioning of keratinous fibres, and more preferably for imparting to keratinous fibers greater strength and smoothness.

The composition according to the present invention can also provide keratinous fibers with good cosmetic effects such as better strength, for example, increased bending strength, smooth touch feeling and easy combing.

By "keratinous fibers" is meant here fibers which include at least one keratinous substance. It is preferable that at least part of the surface of the keratinous fibers is formed by keratinous substances. Examples of keratinous fibers include hair, eyebrows, eyelashes, and the like. It is preferred that the present invention be used for the treatment of hair.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

[Composition]

One aspect of the present invention relates to a composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers, such as the hair, comprising:

(a) at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid; And

(b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.

(Triglyceride oligomer of hydroxy fatty acid and saturated diacid)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid If two or more oligomers of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a diacid saturated are used, they may be the same or different.

The term "oligomer" here means a polymer in which a relatively small number of monomers are bound. It is preferable that the number of monomers in the oligomer be 100 or less, more preferably 50 or less, and still more preferably 20 or less.

The (a) oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid can be obtained by the reaction of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride (such as hydrogenated castor oil) and a saturated diacid . The reaction may be an esterification. Thus, the (a) oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid can be an oligoester of a hydroxy fatty acid and a saturated diacid.

According to the present invention, the diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain of which it consists does not contain an unsaturated group, that is to say a carbon-carbon double bond. The term “diacid” designates here a hydrocarbon compound comprising two carboxyl —COOH functions. The diacid can be a single diacid or a mixture of several different diacids.

Likewise, within the meaning of the present invention, the oligomer can be a mixture of several different oligomers.

Among the saturated diacids which can be used, mention may be made of sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid , octadecamethylene dicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid.

More particularly, the oligomer can be an oligoester whose monomers are represented by the following formulas (A) of triglyceride and (B) of diacid:

in which

R ₁ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising for example from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH2) _l -, where "l" can vary from 1 to 20 and especially from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12,

R ₂ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising for example from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH2)m-CH3, where “m” can vary from 0 to 11 and especially from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9,

And

in which

X ₁ represents a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably represents the linear alkylene group -(CH ₂ )x- where "x" is an integer from 1 to 30, and preferably from 3 to 15.

According to one embodiment, l=10 and m=5, and the group

in formula (A) above represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid (the major component of hydrogenated castor oil).

When the diacid is sebacic acid, X ₁ represents the linear alkylene group -(CH ₂ )x- where "x" is equal to 8.

The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer can vary between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.

Thus, the (a) oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid can be represented by the following formula (C):

(VS)

in which

each of R ₁ , R ₂ and X ₁ has the meaning explained above, and

n means an average degree of polymerization between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.

It is preferable that the following group

in formula (C) above represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid, and that X ₁ represents -(CH ₂ ) ₈ -.

It is preferred that the (a) oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxy fatty acid and a saturated diacid be an oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, i.e. a copolymer oil castor oil/sebacic acid formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid.

The hydrogenated castor oil/sebacic acid copolymer is in particular sold by the company CRODA under various names depending on the degree of polymerization.

Among the hydrogenated castor oil/sebacic acid copolymers, a copolymer with a degree of polymerization of approximately 4.6 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL CWS-5" and another with a degree of polymerization of approximately 9.5 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL CWS-10", sold by Croda Japan K.K.

Mention may also be made of the oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid sold under the name CRODABOND CSA (MW=3,500) by the company CRODA.

The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid can be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0, 1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid can be present in the composition according to the present invention in an equal or lower amount. to 15% by weight, preferably equal to or less than 10% by weight, and more preferably equal to or less than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid can be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0 1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.3% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer or ester thereof)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof. If two or more fatty diacid polyol(s) dimer esters or ester(s) thereof are used, they may be the same or different.

In the expression "ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof", the expression "or an ester thereof" designates one of the derivatives of these esters and of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer obtained either by reaction of the alcohol function(s) of the polyol, not engaged in ester type bonds with the acid functions of the diacid dimer, with one or more carboxylic functions of molecules of acid other than the diacid dimer, or as a variant by reaction of acid function(s) of the diacid dimer, not engaged in ester type bonds with alcohol functions of the polyol, with alcohol functions of other alcohol molecules than polyol.

Advantageously, the esters of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which are suitable for use in the present invention may have a viscosity, measured at approximately 25° C., greater than or equal to about 1500 mPa.s.

The viscosity of an ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or of an ester thereof, according to the present invention, can be measured according to any process known to those skilled in the art, and for example according to the classic process described below.

Viscosity can be measured using an Ares type cone/plate or parallel plate viscometer (TA-Instrument) operating in kinetic scan mode over a shear range of approximately 1 to 1000 s ^-1 to induce a flow voltage of about 1000 Pa.

The cone/plate or parallel plates may be made of a material selected from the group consisting of stainless steel, acrylic resins or polyphenylene sulfide (PPS resin).

The cone/plate diameter can be 25 mm (0.10 radian cone angle).

The measurement is carried out at approximately 25°C.

Before any measurement, the stability of the sample is checked by means of the dynamic sweep period test, which makes it possible to determine whether the sample is stable in itself.

The shear viscosity is determined using the ETA value in the plateau region depending on the flow.

The dynamic sweep period is determined at a frequency of 1.0 Hz over a period of 600 seconds.

The measurements at constant scanning speed are carried out with a rate ranging from 1.0 to 1000 s ^-1 and for example from 1.0 to 100 s ^-1 .

The viscosity of an ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or of an ester thereof, suitable for the present invention, can range from about 1,500 mPa.s to about 150,000 mPa. s, or for example from about 2,000 mPa.s to about 150,000 mPa.s, or for example from about 15,000 mPa.s to about 100,000 mPa.s or for example from about 30,000 mPa.s at about 80,000 mPa.s.

According to one embodiment, a polyol suitable for the present invention can be a diol dimer.

The diol dimer and fatty diacid dimer esters which can be used in the context of the present invention are commercially available or can be prepared in conventional manner. They can be of vegetable origin and can be obtained by esterification of diacid dimers with diol dimers.

In an esterification reaction with a diacid dimer, a polyol dicarboxylate is obtained, which can have a weight average molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC for gel permeation chromatography), ranging from 2000 to 25 000 g/mol or for example between 2000 and 4000 g/mol.

Diacid dimer:

The fatty diacid dimers, or diacid dimers, can be obtained conventionally by polymerization reaction, for example by intermolecular dimerization, of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

They can contain two or more carboxylic acid groups.

As indicated above, the carboxylic functions of the fatty diacid dimer not engaged in the ester bond with the polyol residue(s) can be engaged in other ester bonds with other alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol(s).

These alcohol molecules or residues can be monoalcohols or polyols.

As examples of alcohol residues suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising a hydroxyl function and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, or for example from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, or by for example from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, or for example from 16 to 28 carbon atoms, or for example from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

Examples of suitable monoalcohols for the present invention include, without limitation, butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, eicosadecanol, phytosterol, isosterol, stearol, ketol, beheniol, etc.

The fatty diacid dimers can be derived for example from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, for example from C ₈ to C ₃₄ , or for example from C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , in particular from C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ and for example of _C18 .

Examples of such unsaturated fatty acids include, for example, undecenoic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidinic acid, gadolenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid and arachidonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

According to a variant embodiment, it may be the diacid dimer from which the diol dimer to be esterified can also be derived. It may be its hydrogenated form.

The hydrogenated form of the diacid dimer can be partial or total, and can correspond, for example, to the saturated form, which is more stable with respect to oxidation.

According to another embodiment variant, it may be the diacid dimer derived from the dimerization of linoleic acid.

According to one embodiment, the diacid dimer can be a commercial product consisting of a dicarboxylic acid containing approximately 36 carbon atoms. This product may also contain a trimeric acid and a monomeric acid, in proportions which depend on the degree of purity of the product.

Products whose diacid dimer content may be greater than 70% and the others whose diacid dimer content has been adjusted to 90% or more are traditionally commercially available.

Diacid dimers, and for example dilinoleic diacids whose stability towards oxidation has been improved by hydrogenation of the double bonds remaining after the dimerization reaction, can also be found commercially.

In the present invention, any currently commercially available diacid dimer can be used.

In an esterification reaction with a diacid dimer, the average degree of esterification and the average molecular weight of the resulting ester can be adjusted by varying the ratio of diol dimer to diacid dimer.

Polyols:

The term "polyol" is intended to designate any hydrocarbon-based compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functions and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, or for example from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, or for example from 8 to 32 carbon atoms. of carbon, or for example from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and for example from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

The hydrocarbon-based chains can be interrupted, if necessary, by the presence of at least one heteroatom, and for example an oxygen atom.

A polyol or a polyol ester suitable for the present invention may comprise, for example, from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, or for example from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, or for example from 4 to 6 hydroxyl functions.

If necessary, the hydroxyl functions, other than those already employed in an ester bond with the diacid dimer, can also be employed, in whole or in part, in other ester bonds by reaction with acid molecules other than the diacid dimer.

The polyol or ester thereof suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols.

Thus, the polyol can be selected, for example, from the group consisting of a diol, a triol, a tetraol or a pentaol, or an ester thereof.

The polyol can be a diol, or an ester thereof, chosen for example from the group consisting of a fatty alcohol dimer, a monoglycerol or a polyglycerol, a C ₂ -C ₄ monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycol, the 1, 4-butanediol and pentaerythritol.

Examples of diols which are also suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol , nonanediol, decanediol, 1-decanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecanediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol , sorbitol, ethylene glycol and xylene glycol, and their isomers.

According to a variant, by way of example of diols suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of diol dimers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "diol dimer" is intended to denote saturated diols derived from the hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined above, and for example a diacid dimer of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

With regard to the industrially produced diol dimer, it also usually contains other components, for example, triol, monoalcohol and ether-like compounds, depending on the degree of purification of the acid dimer and/or its ester. of lower alcohol, used as starting material.

As a general rule, products whose diol dimer content is greater than 70% can be used in the present invention. However, a high purity diol dimer can be used, such as a compound with a diol dimer content greater than 90%.

Thus, a diol dimer can be produced by hydrogenation, for example catalytic hydrogenation, of a diacid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

A suitable fatty acid can be such as those mentioned previously, and for example C ₈ to C ₃₄ , or for example C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , or for example C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ and more particularly C ₁₈ .

According to one embodiment, the diol dimer can be obtained from the hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid.

A diol dimer can be, for example, dilinoleol.

The diol dimer can generally be in a saturated form.

As another example of a diol dimer suitable for the present invention, mention may be made, for example, of diglycerol.

This compound is a dimer of glycerol resulting from the condensation of two molecules of glycerol, with the loss of a molecule of water.

The term "diglycerol" denotes any combination of isomers which may result from such a condensation, for example linear isomers, branched isomers and, where appropriate, cyclic isomers resulting from intramolecular dehydration of a molecule of diglycerol .

Diglycerol can be obtained via any process known to those skilled in the art and in particular those described in patent EP 0 750 848.

As examples of acid molecules which can interact with one or more hydroxyl functions of the polyol, not involved in the ester bond with the diacid dimer, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the molecules derived from isostearic acid, behenic acid, phytostearic acid, stearic acid or cetyl acid.

An ester suitable for the present invention can be obtained by reacting a polyol or one of its esters with a diacid dimer, and for example a dimer dilinoleic acid, in a molar ratio of about 1.0:0.2-1 .

An ester which may be suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by reacting a dimer dilinoleic acid with a dilinoleol and, optionally, at least one additional monoalcohol selected for example from the group consisting of behenol, isostearol, phytosterol, stearol and ketol, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, an ester used in the context of the present invention can be used in the form of a mixture of different esters, for example.

A suitable ester for use in the present invention can be obtained, for example, by reacting a glycerol, an isostearic acid and a dimer dilinoleic acid, for example in a molar ratio of 1.0:0.2-1.0 :0.5-0.9.

As examples of dimer dilinoleic acid esters and polyol(s), or an ester thereof, suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the esters described in patent applications JP-A-2003- 226609, JP-A-2004-256515 and JP-A-2005-179377.

A fatty diacid dimer polyol(s) ester, or ester thereof, suitable for the present invention may have a molecular weight range of from about 2,000 to about 25,000 g/mol, for example from about 4,000 to about 20,000 g/mol, for example from about 5,000 to about 20,000 g/mol, for example from about 7,000 to about 15,000 g/mol and for example from about 8,000 at about 10,000 g/mol.

According to one embodiment, an ester in accordance with the present invention may comprise an alternating sequence of diacid dimer residue(s) and residue(s) linked to said polyol(s), and for example to said diol(s), said polyols or diols being, for example, as defined above.

Thus, in such a configuration, each of the two ends of said sequence can bear, respectively, an OR' and OR'' unit with R' and R'' representing, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or OR' and OR'' representing, independently of one another, a C ₂ to C ₃₆ hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, for example C ₈ to C ₂₄ , for example C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ and for example C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ .

According to one embodiment, R' and R'' can both represent a hydrogen atom.

According to one embodiment, OR' and OR'' can both represent the same or different hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue.

As examples of OR' and OR'' hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residues which may be suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of fatty alcohol residues.

A suitable ester for the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of esters of general formula (I), (II) or (IV) described below, or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, an ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which may be suitable for use in the present invention may correspond to the general formula (I) below. below:

R ₃ -OCO-R ₁ (-COO-R ₂ -OCO-R ₁ ) _n -COO-R ₃ (I)

in which :

COR ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

OR ₂ O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,

OR ₃ represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and

n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, for example from 2 to 10 or for example from 5 to 7.

According to a variant embodiment, COR ₁ CO can represent a dimer dilinoleate residue.

According to one embodiment variant, OR ₂ O can represent a dimer dilinoleyl residue.

Further, OR ₃ may represent a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue selected, for example, from the group consisting of behenyl, isostearyl and phytosteryl residues, and mixtures thereof.

According to another embodiment, the ester of dilinoleic acid dimer and polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which may be dimer suitable for use in the present invention may by example answer the general formula (II) below:

(II)

in which :

n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, for example from 2 to 10 and in particular from 5 to 7,

COR' ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

OR' ₂ O represents a diglyceryl residue of general formula (III) below:

(III)

in which :

R' ₃ represents H or OR' ₃ represents a fatty acid residue.

According to a variant embodiment, COR′ ₁ CO can represent a dimer dilinoleate residue.

According to a variant embodiment, the fatty acid residue represented by OR′ ₃ can be an isostearyl residue.

According to one embodiment, an ester of dilinoleic acid dimer and polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which may be suitable for use in the present invention, may be of the formula (IV) below:

HO-R _{1 '} -(-OCO-R ₂ ''-COO-R ₁ ''-) _h -OH(IV)

in which :

a) OR ₁ ''O represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dimer dilinoleic acid,

b) COR ₂ ''CO represents a fatty acid dimer residue, and

c) h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, for example from 2 to 8 and for example from 4 to 6.

According to one embodiment, COR ₂ ''CO can represent a dimer dilinoleate residue.

An ester suitable for the present invention may be chosen, for example, from the group consisting of esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate and mixtures thereof.

These compounds can be obtained, for example, under the reference Hailuscent ISDA (Kokyu Alcohol) and Plandool-G, Plandool-G7, Lusplan DD-DA5, Lusplan DD-DA7, PHY/IS-DA and Lusplan DD-DAS (Nippon Fine Chemical Company Ltd).

For example, Lusplan DD-DA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7 are described in patent application FR 03/02809.

The amount of polyol ester(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5 % by weight or more.

If necessary, the amount of polyol ester(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the composition according to the present invention may preferably be 1.0 wt% or more, preferably 1.5 wt% or more, and still more preferably 2.0 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of polyol ester(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15 wt% or less, more preferably 10 wt% or less, and still more preferably 5 wt% or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the composition according to the present invention can be between 0, 5% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 15% by weight, more preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Aminosilicone)

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (c) at least one aminosilicone. Only one type of aminosilicone can be used, or two or more different types of aminosilicone can be used in combination.

According to the present invention, the (c) aminosilicone may have a degree of polymerization lower than 2000, preferably lower than 1500, and more preferably lower than 1000.

The degree of polymerization is the number of repeating units that form a polymer. The degree of polymerization here represents an average value of the degree of polymerization, preferably a number average value of the degree of polymerization.

As (c) aminosilicone, any aminosilicone compound in the field of cosmetics can be used.

The term "aminosilicone" here means a silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or at least one quaternary ammonium group.

As (c) aminosilicone which can be used in the present invention, the following can be mentioned:

(i) The polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

wherein x' and y' are independently integers such that the sum of x' and y' is preferably less than 2000, more preferably less than 1500, and even more preferably less than 1000;

(ii) Aminosilicone corresponding to formula (B):

R'_ToG_{( 3-a )}-Si(OSiG₂)_not-(OSiG_bR'_{( 2-b )})_m-O-SiG_{( 3-a ' )}R'_{To '} (B)

in which :

G independently denotes a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH, or C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, for example methyl, or a C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy group, for example methoxy,

a and a' independently designate the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;

b denotes the number 0 or 1, and in particular 1;

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) lies, for example, in a range extending from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to less than 1 999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly designating a number, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

R' independently denotes a monovalent group of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-NR''-QN(R'') ₂

-N(R'') ₂

-N ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^-

-N ⁺ H(R'') ₂ A ^-

-N ⁺ H ₂ (R'') A ^-

-NR''-QN ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^-

-NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₂ HA ^-

-NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- ,

in which

R″ independently denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl group;

Q represents a linear or branched C _r H _2r group, r being an integer between 2 and 6, preferably between 2 and 4; And

A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

A group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to the formula (C):

wherein n and m have the meanings given above in formula B.

Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the silicones corresponding to the following formula (D) or (E):

in which :

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ independently represent a hydroxy group or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy group, in which at least one of the groups R ₁ to R ₃ denotes an alkoxy group.

The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably in the range from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more preferably is 0.3: 1.

The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 1,000,000, more preferably 3,500 to 200,000.

in which :

p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy group, where at least one of the R ₁ or R ₂ groups denotes an alkoxy group.

The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is generally in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly 1:0.95.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 2,000 and 200,000, more particularly between 5,000 and 100,000 and more particularly between 10,000 and 50,000.

The commercial products corresponding to these silicones corresponding to the structure (D) or (E) can include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones whose structure is different from the formula (D) or (E).

A product containing an aminosilicone having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name BELSIL ADM 652.

A product containing an aminosilicone having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name FLUID WR 1300®.

Another aminosilicone group corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F):

in which :

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to less than 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m a number, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone sold under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G):

in which :

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes, for example, from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to less than 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m a number, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones is in a range of preferably 500 to 1,000,000 and more particularly 1,000 to 200,000.

A silicone corresponding to this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning.

(iii) Aminosilicone corresponding to formula (H):

in which :

R ₅ independently represents a group based on a monovalent hydrocarbon containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group, for example methyl;

R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene group or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy group, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , bonded to Si via an SiC bond;

Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example an acetate);

r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.

These aminosilicones are described more particularly in US Pat. No. 4,185,087.

(iv) Quaternary ammonium silicones corresponding to formula (I):

in which :

R ₇ independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, by example methyl;

R ₆ independently represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene group or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy group, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , bonded to Si via an SiC bond;

R ₈ independently represents a hydrogen atom, a group based on a monovalent hydrocarbon containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group or an -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ group;

X ⁻ is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;

These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.

(v) Aminosilicone of formula (J):

in which :

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl group;

R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxy group;

m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

and in which x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g;

(vi) Multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicone, of (AB)n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

Said silicones preferably consist of repeated units corresponding to the following general formula:

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R- ]

or alternatively

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ - R -N(R”)- R' - O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]

in which :

a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, and more particularly from 10 to 100;

b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly from 5 to 30;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000;

R” is hydrogen or methyl;

R independently represents a C ₂ -C ₁₂ linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon-based group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R independently represents an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ - group; preferentially, R independently represents a group -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ -;

R' independently represents a C ₂ -C ₁₂ linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ - group; preferentially, R′ denotes a group
CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane sequences preferably represent between 50 and 95% by mol of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85% by mol.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

Mention may in particular be made of the silicones sold under the names SILSOFT A-843 or SILSOFT A+ by Momentive.

(vii) Alkylaminosilicone corresponding to formulas (K' and K) below:

(K')

in which

R, R' and R' independently represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or hydroxy group,

A is C ₃ alkylene and m and n are such that the sum m+n is preferably less than 2000, more preferably less than 1500, and even more preferably less than 1000 approximately;

in which :

x and y are numbers such that the sum of x and y ranges, for example, from 1 to less than 2,000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to less than 1,500 and especially from 100 to 1,000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

R1 and R2, preferably independently identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms;

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group, containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched.

Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R1 and R2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

Preferably, the silicone is of formula (K) with:

x ranging, for example, from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000;

y ranging from 1 to 100;

A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent groups: CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; And

R1 and R2 being independently linear saturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetaryl amodimethicone.

Mention may be made in particular of the silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

The aminosilicones of the present disclosure can also be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on the side chains, for example aminopropyl groups at the end of the chain or on the side chains, for example those of formula (A ), (Goat) :

In the formula (A): the value of n is preferably less than 2000, more preferably less than 1500, and still more preferably less than 1000. As an example of aminosilicone (A) , mention may be made of those sold under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.

In formula (B), the sum of n and m is such that it is preferably less than 2,000, more preferably less than 1,500, and even more preferably less than 1,000. As examples of silicone (B), mention may be made of those sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin Etsu.

In formula (C), the value of n is preferably less than 2000, more preferably less than 1500, and still more preferably less than 1000. As an example of silicone (C), mention may be made of those sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

Preferably, the (c) aminosilicone according to the present invention is an amodimethicone. In one embodiment, the (c) aminosilicone is bis-cetaryl amodimethicone. In another embodiment, the (c) aminosilicone is aminopropyl dimethicone.

Aminosilicones suitable for use in accordance with the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and nonvolatile, cyclic, linear, and branched aminosilicones having a viscosity range of 5×10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² / s at 25°C, for example from 1×10 ^-5 to 1 m ² /s.

The amount of (c) aminosilicone in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more. , based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (c) aminosilicone in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the weight composition total.

The amount of (c) aminosilicone in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 10% by weight, and more preferably between 1% and 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Silicone)

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise (d) at least one silicone other than (c) aminosilicone. Only one type of silicone can be used, or two or more different types of silicone can be used in combination.

It is preferable that the (d) silicone is chosen from silicone oils.

By “silicone oil”, we mean here a silicone compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As silicone oils, those which are generally used in cosmetics can be used singly or in combination.

Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter NOLL in “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

Thus, the silicone oil(s) can be chosen from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.

Thus, the silicone oil can comprise either at least one volatile silicone oil, or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or both at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

The volatile or non-volatile silicone can be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organo-functional moiety or group.

For example, the silicone oil can be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes and organically modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one moiety or one organo- functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl moieties or groups, hydroxyl or hydroxyl moieties or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl moieties or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate moieties or groups, acrylic moieties or groups and oxazoline moieties.

If the silicone oil(s) is (are) volatile, the silicone oil(s) can be chosen from among those whose boiling point is included between 60°C and 260°C, for example:

(i) cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, for example, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of these siloxanes include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold, for example, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, KF-995 by SHIN ETSU, and mixtures thereof. Cyclomethanes can also be used, for example those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type can also be used, such as, for example, SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula

Or :

Combinations of cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes with organic silicon compounds can also be used, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane; And

(ii) volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed, for example, under the trade name “SH-200” by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32--TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".

If the silicone oil(s) is (are) volatile, the silicone oil(s) can be chosen from cyclic silicones.

On the other hand, the silicone oil(s) can be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and organically modified polysiloxanes as explained below. above.

The molecular weight of (c) silicone, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups, has a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of 300,000 or more, preferably 350,000 or more, preferably 400,000 or more, and preferably 3,000,000 or less, preferably 2,000,000 or less, and more preferably 1,000,000 or less.

According to one embodiment, the (c) silicone, preferably silicone oil, can be chosen from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, for example polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups known under the trade name dimethicones.

The (c) silicones which are preferred according to the present invention may be polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, such as oils having a viscosity at 25° C. greater than 1,000,000 cSt (mm ² /s), even more preferably a viscosity greater than 2,000,000 cSt, and even more particularly greater than 5,000,000 cSt, better still greater than 10,000,000 cSt and preferably less than 50,000,000 cSt, better still less than 30,000,000 cSt, better still less than 15,000,000cSt.

According to the present invention, all the polydimethylsiloxanes can be used as such or in the form of solutions, emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.

Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to these polydialkylsiloxanes include BY22-029 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; nonionic dimethicone oil emulsion), BY22-060 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co. , Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), BY22-019 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co, Ltd; nonionic and cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a cyclic silicone), BY22-020 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting a highly polymerized dimethicone with a light liquid isoparaffin), KM902 (product of Shin -Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd; nonionic emulsion of highly polymerized dimethicone), KM903 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co, Ltd; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting a d highly polymerized imethicone with low viscosity silicone), X-52-2127 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting a highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), X-52-2162 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co, Ltd.; nonionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), EMU101 (product of Momentive Performance Materials, Inc. nonionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting a highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), XS65-B3803 (product from Momentive Performance Materials, Inc.; nonionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting a highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), DC 7-3100 (product of Dow Corning Toray Silicone, Co, Ltd.).

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes can be chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes.

Non-limiting examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following trade names:

SILBIONE® fluids from the 70 641 range from RHODIA; RHODORSIL® fluids from the 70 633 and 763 ranges from RHODIA;

phenyltrimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;

silicones from the PK range from BAYER, for example, the product PK20;

silicones from the PN, PH range of BAYER. for example, the PN1000 and PH1000 products; And

certain fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The organo-modified silicones which can be used according to the present invention include, without limitation, silicones such as those defined above and comprising in their structure at least one fraction or one organo-functional group linked directly or via of a hydrocarbon group.

Organo-modified silicones can include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes including:

polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy fractions optionally comprising C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl fractions, such as the products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and SILWET® fluids L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 marketed by UNION CARBIDE and (C ₁₂ )alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200;

alkoxylated fractions, such as the product marketed under the trademark “SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755” by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

hydroxylated fractions, such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function described, for example, in French patent application No. FR-A-85 163 34;

acyloxyalkyl moieties, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Patent No. FR-A-85,163,34, No. 4,957,732;

anionic carboxylic acid moieties, for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and anionic alkyl carboxylic moieties, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names “ABIL® S201” and “ABIL® S255”;

acrylic fractions, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M; And

oxazoline moieties

The silicones which can be used according to the present invention can contain 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). The products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96 and OS-88 can also be used.

Polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups can also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the fluids of the 48 range marketed by RHODIA.

If the silicone oil(s) is (are) not volatile, the silicone oil(s) can be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and polydimethylsiloxanes modified with organic compounds.

It is preferable for the silicone oil to be chosen from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups and/or at the end (at the ends) of the silicone chain, these groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and organo-modified silicones such as dimethiconol.

It is possible to use a combination of at least one volatile silicone and at least one non-volatile silicone, such as silicone oil. Non-limiting examples of such combinations include a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, marketed, for example, under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Corning.

It is preferable that the degree of polymerization of (d) silicone be less than 2000, preferably less than 1500, and even more preferably less than 1000.

The amount of (d) silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more. , based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (d) silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, based on the weight composition total.

The amount of (d) silicone in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20%. % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio (c) aminosilicone / (d) silicone can be from 0.01 to 5, preferably from 0.1 to 1, and more preferably from 0.2 at 0.5.

(Water)

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) water.

The amount of (e) water may be 65 wt% or more, preferably 70 wt% or more, and more preferably 75 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (e) water may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (e) water may be between 65% and 95% by weight, preferably between 70% and 90% by weight, and more preferably between 75% and 85% by weight, based on the total weight of composition.

(fatty alcohol)

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more types of fatty alcohols can be used in combination.

The term "fat" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more carbon atoms, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more, fall within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched. Two or more types of fatty alcohols can be used in combination.

The fatty alcohol can have the R-OH structure in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols which may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonic alcohol, erucic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol can coexist, as a mixture, in a commercial product.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

The amount of the (f) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably 1 wt% or more. plus, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (f) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (f) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Cationic Surfactant)

The composition according to the present invention may additionally comprise (g) at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more kinds of cationic surfactants can be used in combination.

The cationic surfactant can be chosen from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:

those of general formula (V) below:

(V)

in which

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ , which are identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups can be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylamido(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl; and aromatic groups such as aryl and alkylaryl; preferably alkyl groups; and X ^- is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl sulphates and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonates;

the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (VI) below:

(VI)

in which :

R ₅ is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or coconut;

R ₆ is chosen from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R ₇ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals;

R ₈ is chosen from hydrogen and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals _; And

X- is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl sulphonates and alkylaryl sulphonates. In one embodiment, R ₅ and R ₆ are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 is the methyl and R ₈ is hydrogen. These products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the Witco company;

diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (VII):

(VII)

in which :

R ₉ is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;

R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , and R ₁₄ , which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; And

X ^- is selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates and methyl sulfates. An example of a diquaternary ammonium salt is propane tallow diammonium dichloride; And

quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VIII) below:

(VIII)

in which :

R ₂₂ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radicals, and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals _;

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

the stem below:

,

radicals R ₂₇ based on C _1- C ₂₂ hydrocarbon, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, and hydrogen,

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

the stem below:

,

radicals R ₂₉ based on C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, and hydrogen,

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ , and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals _;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6;

each of r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, is 0 or 1, and r2+r1=2r and t1+2t=2t;

y is chosen from the integers ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X ⁻ is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; provided that the sum x+y+z is between 1 and 15, that when x is 0, R ₂₃ represents R ₂₇ , and that when z is equal to 0, R ₂₅ represents R ₂₉ . R ₂₂ can be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10. When R ₂₃ is the hydrocarbon-based radical R ₂₇ , it can be long and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R ₂₅ is the hydrocarbon-based radical R ₂₉ , it may comprise, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of non-limiting example, in the same embodiment, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ , and R ₂₈ , which are identical or different, are chosen from radicals based on C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbons, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, for example from C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be the same or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is 1. In another embodiment, r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X ^- can be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide and iodide, and alkyl sulphates C ₁ -C ₄ , such as methyl sulphate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other ammonium-compatible anion comprising an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions that can be used according to the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X ⁻ is chosen from chloride and methyl sulphate.

In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of formula (VIII) can be used, in which:

R ₂₂ is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals,

x and y are equal to 1;

z is equal to 0 or 1;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

the stem below:

,

methyl, ethyl, and C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals, and hydrogen;

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

the stem below:

,

and hydrogen;

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ , and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based radicals, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, for example from alkyl and alkenyl radicals C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ , linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (VIII) which may be mentioned include the salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl- methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals can comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and can be derived, for example, from a vegetable oil, for example palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification can be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulphates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulphates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

These compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and “Rewoquat® WE 18” by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.

Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts which can be used in the compositions according to the present invention include ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in US Patent Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.

Among the cationic surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the present invention, the quaternary ammonium and diammonium salts include, for example, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltimethylammonium chloride (such as, for example, the products sold under the brand Dehyquart A by Cognis, or Quartamin 60 W25 by Kao, or Genamin CTAC 25 by Clariant), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (such as the products sold for example by Clariant under the trade name Genamin KDMP or Genamin BTLF, or by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Varisoft BT 85), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride, behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (such as the product sold by Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131), stearamidopropyldimethylchloride (myristyl acetate ) ammonium, a dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt such as methosulfate of dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium (INCI name cetearyl alcohol (and) dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate) (such as the product Dehyquart F 30 from Cognis), di(CrC2 alkyl)(C12-C22 alkyl)hydroxy(CrC2alkyl)ammonium salt, such as the salt of dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium in which the alkyl radical preferably comprises 12 to 24 carbon atoms, propane-tallow-diammonium dichloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

In a particular embodiment, the cationic surfactant is chosen from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the (g) cationic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably 1 wt%. or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (g) cationic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (g) cationic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more. preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Optional components)

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise, in addition to the aforementioned essential/optional components, other optional components typically used in cosmetics, namely nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, tints, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or plants, preservatives and the like, within a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the other optional component(s) above in an amount of 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Preparation)

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above in accordance with one of the processes well known to those skilled in the art.

The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid. It is preferable for the composition according to the present invention to be in the form of an emulsion.

(Apps)

The composition according to the present invention can be used to treat, for example, keratinous fibers or to condition them.

The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-type hair cosmetic composition.

For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used in cosmetic hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners and the like.

[Cosmetic process and use]

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for or conditioning keratinous fibers, preferably the hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous fibers.

The cosmetic process according to the present invention may also comprise the step of heating the keratinous fibers after the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous fibers.

The present invention may also relate to a process aimed at giving keratinous fibers such as the hair a feeling of lightness to the touch and of smoothness, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous fibers the composition according to the present invention.

The application step can be performed by any conventional means such as an applicator, for example a brush.

The present invention also relates to a use of

a) at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid; And

b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof,

in a composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers to enhance or improve the conditioning effects of the composition for keratinous fibers. Enhanced or enhanced conditioning effects may include greater keratinous fiber strength and improved keratinous fiber smoothness, which may provide a smoother feel to the touch and facilitate combing.

The explanations relating to the ingredients (a) and (b), as well as to the other optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention can be applied to the ingredients (a) and (b), as well as to the possible optional ingredients in the composition for the above use.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Examples 1-5 and Comparative Example 1

[Preparation]

Each of the hair treatment compositions according to Examples 1-5 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 5) and Comparative Example 1 (Ex. Comp. 1) were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The values Ingredient quantity numbers are all based on the "% by weight" of raw materials.

Mw: Molecular weight (mean)

NA: Not available

[Ratings]

(Resistance Analysis)

Two hair strands (hair bundles) (2.7 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each of the hair strands was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. After shampooing, the lock of hair was rinsed with water. 1.1 g of each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 5 and comparative example 1 was applied to each lock of hair, and left for 5 minutes. The lock of hair was then rinsed with running water and then dried naturally under ambient conditions to obtain a treated lock of hair.

The root of the hair strand was fixed on a plate. On the other hand, the tip of the braid was held and pointed upwards, then, the tip of the braid was released so that the tip of the braid could be directed downwards. The angle between the plate and the root of the lock of hair (bundle of hair) was measured (cf. ). The average value was determined as the bending angle.

The bending angle of the lock of hair itself was 71°.

The results are shown on the row titled “Strength Analysis (Bending Angle (°))” in Table 1. The larger the bending angle, the better the strength of the hair strand.

(Smoothing (CDF))

Three locks of hair (2.7 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each of the hair strands was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. After shampooing, the lock of hair was rinsed with water. 1.1 g of each of the compositions according to examples 3 and 5, and comparative example 1 was applied to each lock of hair, and left for 5 minutes. The lock of hair was then rinsed with running water and then dried naturally under ambient conditions to obtain a treated lock of hair.

The treated lock of hair was placed on a plate, and its root was fixed on the plate using a hair clip. The smoothness of the treated hair strand was assessed by scanning the sample from root to tip with a sensor (Handy Rub Tester (type TL701) from Trinity Lab) and measuring the CDF (coefficient of friction). The measurement was carried out 3 times for a single lock of hair treated. The same procedure was carried out with two other strands of hair in order to obtain a total of 9 results for one composition, and the average values were calculated for each composition. A lower score indicates that a better smoothing effect can be exerted.

The CDF of the hair strand itself was 0.24.

The results are shown in the row titled "Smoothness (CDF)" in Table 1. The smaller the CDF, the greater the smoothness.

The compositions according to examples 1, 2 and 4 were not evaluated.

(Sensory Ratings)

Three locks of hair (2.7 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each of the hair strands was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. After shampooing, the lock of hair was rinsed with water. 1.1 g of each of the compositions according to examples 3 and 5, and comparative example 1 was applied to each lock of hair. The lock of hair was left for 5 minutes. The lock of hair was rinsed with running water and then dried naturally under ambient conditions to obtain a treated lock of hair.

Resistance and combing, after the above treatment with each of the compositions according to examples 3 and 5, and comparative example 1 on the lock of hair, were estimated by 3 panelists in accordance with the following criteria. The reference means the estimation result for the lock of hair itself, that is to say without application of any composition.

5: Much higher than the benchmark

4: Higher than benchmark

3: Parity with the reference

2: Below benchmark

1: Much lower than benchmark

The scores thus obtained were averaged. The results are shown on the row titled “Sensory Ratings” in Table 1.

The compositions according to examples 1, 2 and 4 were not evaluated.

(Results)

As can be seen in the results shown in Table 1, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 5, which each comprise an oligomer of a triglyceride of hydroxylated fatty acid and of saturated diacid and an ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, have been shown to impart improved conditioning effects to the hair, in particular superior hair strength.

In addition, the compositions according to Examples 3 and 5 have made it possible to improve the smoothness of the hair.

In fact, the compositions according to examples 3 and 5 could give the hair better cosmetic effects such as easier combing and better resistance of the hair.

The composition according to comparative example 1, which comprises an oligomer of a triglyceride of hydroxylated fatty acid and of saturated diacid but does not comprise ester of polyol(s) and dimer of fatty diacid, could not provide to the hair only very limited conditioning effects, in particular a very limited improvement in the resistance of the hair.

In addition, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 made it possible to slightly improve the smoothness of the hair.

However, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was not able to confer on the hair better perceptible cosmetic effects in terms of combing and resistance.

Claims (10)

Composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers comprising:
(a) at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid; And
(b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride is represented by the following formula (A)

in which
R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising for example from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and
R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising for example from 1 to 12 carbon atoms,
And
the saturated diacid is represented by the following formula (B)

in which
X1 is a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably a linear alkylene group -(CH2)x- where x is an integer from 1 to 30, and preferably from 3 to 15. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid is a hydrogenated castor oil/sebacic acid copolymer. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the amount of the oligomer(s) of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid is from 0.1% to 15 % by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the (b) ester of polyol(s) and dimer of fatty diacid, or an ester thereof, is chosen from esters of
following general formula (I):
R ₃ -OCO-R ₁ (-COO-R ₂ -OCO-R ₁ )n-COO-R ₃ (I)
in which :
COR ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,
OR ₂ O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,
OR ₃ represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and
n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,
Or
following general formula (II):
(II)
in which :
n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,
COR' ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,
OR' ₂ O represents a diglyceryl residue of general formula (III) below:
(III)
in which :
R' ₃ represents H or OR'3 represents a fatty acid residue,
Or
following general formula (IV):
HO-R ₁ '-(-OCO-R ₂ ''-COO-R ₁ ''-)h-OH(IV)
in which :
OR ₁ ''O represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dimer dilinoleic acid,
COR ₂ ''CO represents a fatty acid dimer residue, and
h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, is selected from the group consisting of esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the quantity of the ester(s) of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or of its ester(s), is 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-off type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-off type hair cosmetic composition. Cosmetic process for the care or conditioning of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step:
for application to the keratinous fibers of the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8. Use
a) of at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid; And
b) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof,
in a composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers in order to reinforce or improve the conditioning effects of the composition for keratinous fibers.