FR2939680A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful e.g. to treat keratin material including keratin fiber, preferably hair, comprises liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol, and glycerin in a medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition (I) comprises one or more liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol, and glycerin, in a medium.

Description

B08 / 4302EN - JBL OA 08512

Company known as L'OREAL Cosmetic composition comprising a polyester and glycerin Invention of: LAURENT Ludivine ANNOTEL Christine Cosmetic composition comprising a polyester and glycerin

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, and glycerine, and to a process for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers.

Many hair care products have been described in the prior art. The corresponding compositions are intended to provide good cosmetic properties to the hair. However, it appears very difficult to formulate hair products to bring a good level of shine to the hair without causing a greasy or tacky effect very anti-cosmetic. Document EP 1 857 098 also discloses a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratin materials comprising an ester of polyol (s) and dimer of fatty acid diacid and a particular polyamide. The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the combination of one or more liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol, and glycerine, made it possible to avoid the problems encountered in the prior art and to obtain a hair care composition to bring a good level of shine to the hair while limiting the fat effect. The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium one or more liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer and diol, and glycerin. Liquid polyester means a polyester whose viscosity is less than 40000 Cst, preferably less than 20000 Cst at 40 ° C, determined according to ASTM D445-88.

In the context of the present invention, the term "unsaturated fatty acid" denotes a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The unsaturated fatty acid dimers may in particular comprise from 2 to 4 unsaturations in their carbon chain. The unsaturated fatty acid trimers may comprise from 3 to 6 unsaturations in their carbon chain. Preferably, unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers are polycarboxylic acids comprising at least 2 and up to 6 carboxylic acid functions per molecule. In a preferred embodiment, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer may comprise from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and preferably 2 carboxylic acid functions. The unsaturated fatty acid trimer can comprise from 42 to 66 carbon atoms and preferably 3 carboxylic acid functions. Preferably, an unsaturated fatty acid dimer is used, in particular having 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions. Mixtures of dimers and trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated fatty acids (unpolymerized, therefore corresponding to the monomers) can also be used within the scope of the invention. In the case of such a mixture, a mixture comprising more than 50% by weight of dimers, for example a mixture comprising more than 90% by weight, preferably more than 95%, of acids in the form of dimers, is preferred. the remainder of the mixture may be trimers and / or unsaturated fatty acid monomers. The dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid may optionally be hydrogenated after the polymerization reaction of the unsaturated fatty acid, in particular to improve the stability of the dimer or trimer product. Hydrogenated fatty acid dimers (oleic or linoleic acid) are especially marketed under the trade names EMPOL1008, EMPOL1004, EMPOL1025, EMPOL1011 and EMPOL1062 by Cognis and Pripol 1006 (dilinoleic acid) by Uniqema, International. Uniqema also markets a hydrogenated fatty acid dimer under the name Pripol 1013 (hydrogenated dilinoleic acid).

In a particularly preferred manner, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer is a dimer of linoleic acid, also called dilinoleic acid, obtained by intermolecular polymerization of linoleic acid.

The unsaturated fatty acid may be of natural origin, preferably vegetable. A fatty acid of plant origin can come from any plant source producing said fatty acid. For example, in the case of linoleic acid, molecules extracted from soybean, rapeseed, etc. may be used.

The polyester or polyesters present in the composition according to the invention are thus obtained by condensation of a long chain fatty acid polymerized with a diol. In the context of the present invention, the term "diol" denotes a C2-C10, preferably C2-C8, and preferably C2-C6, hydrocarbon-based compound, the carbon chain of which is substituted with two hydroxyl functions. The hydrocarbon chain (s) may be interrupted by an oxygen atom. The diols that can be used according to the invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols. Preferably, the diol is a saturated linear diol. In a particularly preferred manner, the diol is a butanediol, especially 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol. Thus, preferably, the polyester present in the composition according to the invention is obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer and a butanediol. Advantageously, the polyester or polyesters used in the composition according to the invention have an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000, preferably between 1000 and 2000, and preferably between 1200 and 1800.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol is a polymer, or polyester, of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, preferably having an average molecular weight of 1300, a viscosity at 40 ° C of 2500-3500 cSt and a refractive index at 25 ° C of 1.475-1.485. In particular, mention may be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer).

The amount of polyester in the composition according to the invention can vary to a large extent and depends in particular on the desired dosage and the desired effects. Advantageously, and to give an order of magnitude, the polyester or polyesters represent from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 20%, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition. As explained above, the composition according to the invention further comprises glycerine. Generally, the glycerine is from 1 to 30%, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cosmetic additives chosen from silicones, fatty substances and in particular vegetable waxes, surfactants, fixing polymers, fibers, mineral particles, perfumes, floral waters, oils and the like. plasticizers, glycols, sunscreens, basifying agents, acidifying agents, preservatives, permanent or temporary dyes, mineral fillers, flakes, conditioners, antifoam agents, moisturizers, humectants, emollients, polymeric or non-polymeric thickeners, peptizers, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and provitamins, proteins, sequestering agents, solubilizing agents, oxidizing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, corrosion and reducing agents or antioxidants. The silicones optionally present in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes which may be in the form of aqueous solutions, that is to say solubilized, or optionally in the form of dispersions or micro-dispersions, or of emulsions aqueous. The polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academie Press. Silicones can be volatile or non-volatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably 4 to 5. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHONE POULENC, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name of "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHONE POULENC, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of chemical structure:

## STR1 ## The cyclic silicone mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50%), can also be mentioned. / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '(hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane, CH3 (Si) (ii) silicones linear volatiles having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10.6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray SILICONE Silicones in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol 91, Jan. 76, p 27-32 - TODD & BYERS Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics. non-volatile silicones and more particularly poly alkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. and preferably 1 × 10 -5 to 1 m2 / s. The viscosity of the silicones is, for example, measured at 25 ° C. according to the ASTM 445 Appendix C standard. Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL oils marketed by RHONE POULENC such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000; oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHONE POULENC; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, the DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst; - VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name), such as the oils of the 48 series of the company Rhone-Poulenc. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing aminoethyl aminopropyl and alpha-omega silanol groups.

In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are poly (C1-C20) alkylsiloxanes. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl methylphenylsiloxanes and linear and / or branched polydimethyl diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: - SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series RHONE POULENC; - RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 series oils from RHONE POULENC; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning; the silicones of the PK series of BAYER, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN, PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; certain oils of the series SF of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. The silicone gums which may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high average molecular masses in a number between 200 000 and 1 000 000 used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures. Mention may be made more particularly of the following products: polydimethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums.

More particularly useful products are the following mixtures: - mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the end of the chain (called dimethiconol according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature) and a cyclic poly-dimethylsiloxane (called cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning; the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500 000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R2SiO212, R3SiO1 / 2, RSiO312 and SiO412 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower alkyl radical C1-C4, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical.

Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shinetsu. The organomodified silicones optionally present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon radical. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12) methicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; thiol groups such as the products sold under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxyl groups such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application FR-A-85 16334; acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732; anionic groups of the carboxylic type, for example in the products described in patent EP 186 507 of the company Chisso Corporation, or of alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulphate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL 5201" and "ABIL S255"; hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from Dow Corning. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may also be made of amino silicones. Amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. The amino silicones that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from: (a) the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I): (R 1) a (T) 3-a-Si [OSi (T) 2 ] n- [OSi (T) b (R1) 2-b] m-OSi (T) 3-a- (R1) a (I) wherein, T is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl radical, hydroxyl (-OH), or C1-C8 alkyl, and preferably methyl or C1-C8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy, a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1.25 m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) may vary in particular from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2,000, and in particular from 1 to 10; R1 is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL wherein q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the groupings: - N (R2) -CH2-CH2-N (R2) 2; N (R 2) 2 N + (R 2) 3 Q- -N + (R 2) (H) 2 Q-;

- N + (R2) 2HQ-

N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N + (R 2) (H) 2 Q-,

in which R 2 may designate a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical, and Q - represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of the formula (I) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula: ## STR2 ## wherein SiO 2 SiO 2 SiCH 3 CH 3 CH 3 n CH 3

NH 2 (CH 2) 2 m NH 2 (II) in which R, R ', R ", which may be identical or different, denote a

C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably CH3; a C1-C6 alkoxy radical

C4, preferably methoxy; or OH; A represents an alkylene radical,

linear or branched, C3-C8, preferably C3-C6; m and n are integers depending on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000. According to a first possibility, R, R ', R ", which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl radical, A represents a C 3 alkylene radical and m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between about 5,000 and 500,000.The compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicone". second possibility, R, R ', R ", which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical and A represents a C3 alkylene radical. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2 / 1 and 0.4 / 1 and advantageously equal to 0.3 / 1. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000. In this category of compounds, mention may be made inter alia of the product Belsil ADM 652, sold by Wacker.

According to a third possibility, R, R ", different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R, R" is an alkoxy radical, R 'represents a methyl radical and A represents a radical. C3 alkylene. The molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy is preferably between 1 / 0.8 and 1 / 1.1, and advantageously is equal to 1 / 0.95. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

More particularly, there may be mentioned the product F1uidWR 1300, marketed by Wacker. According to a fourth possibility, R, R "represent a hydroxyl radical, R 'represents a methyl radical and A is a C4-C8 alkylene radical, preferably a C4 radical, and m and n are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 1999 and m is between 1 and 2000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 2000.

A product of this type is especially marketed under the name DC28299 by Dow Corning. Note that the molecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, styragem columns, THF eluent, flow rate of 1 mm / m, 200 l of a 0.5% solution are injected in weight of silicone in THF and the detection is carried out by refractometry and UV-metry). A product corresponding to the definition of the formula (I) is in particular the polymer referred to in the CTFA dictionary "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", corresponding to the following formula (III): (CH 3) 3 SiO Si (CH 3) 3 CH 3 1 SiO 1 CH 3 n (i H2) 2 NH2 (III) wherein n and m have the meanings given above according to formula (I).

Such compounds are described for example in EP 95238; a compound of formula (III) is for example sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI. (b) the compounds corresponding to the following formula (IV): ## STR5 ## wherein R 3 R 3 R 3 R 3 R 3 R 3 s (IV) in which, R3 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical C1-C18, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, or C2-C18 alkenyl, for example methyl; R4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical; Q- is a halide ion, in particular chloride; r represents an average statistic of 2 to 20 and in particular 2 to 8; are a statistical value s represents an average of 20 to 200 and in particular 20 to 50. described more particularly in such compounds US Patent 4185087. A compound in this class is that sold by Union Carbide under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56 ". c) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (V): ## STR2 ##

R7 wherein R7, which are the same or different, represent a monovalent or monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy radical connected to Si by an SiC bond; R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -R6- NHCOR7; X - is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.); r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular 5 to 100; These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974. D) the amino silicones of formula (VI):

where: R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a grouping, wherein R 1, R 3, R 3 and R 4, which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a group phenyl, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and wherein x is chosen so that amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g. Particularly preferred silicones are polysiloxanes containing amine groups such as amodimethicones or trimethylsilylamodimethicones (CTFA 4th edition 1997), and even more particularly silicones with quaternary ammonium groups. When these compounds are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use together with cationic and / or nonionic surfactants. As an example, it is possible to use the product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 939" by Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylketylammonium chloride and a non-surface-active agent. ionic compound of formula: C13H27- (OC2H4) 12-OH, known under the name CTFA "trideceth-12". Another commercial product that can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the company Dow Corning, comprising in combination the trimethylsilylamodimethicone of formula (III) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: C8H17-C6H4- (OCH2CH2) 40-OH, known under the name CTFA "octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of the formula: C12H25- (OCH2-CH2) 6-OH, known under the name CTFA "isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol. The silicone or silicones generally represent from 0 to 30%, preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. As explained above, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants.

The surfactant (s) optionally present in the composition according to the invention may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic or cationic surfactants. Surfactants suitable for the implementation of the present invention are notably the following: (i) anionic surfactant (s):

By way of example of anionic surfactants which may be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (nonlimiting list) of the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, α-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates; (C6-C24) alkylsulphosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylsulphosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylamidesulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulphoacetates; acyl (C6-Cz4) sarcosinates and acyl (C6-C4) glutamates. It is also possible to use (C6-C24) alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyllactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) aryl ether carboxylic acids, (C6-C24) alkyl amido acids. polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and mixtures thereof. (ii) Nonionic surfactant (s):

Nonionic surfactants are also well-known compounds per se (see, in particular, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, polyethoxylated alkylphenols, polypropoxylated, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide which may range from 2 to 50. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucosamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) alkyl oxides or oxides N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. Mention may also be made of alkylpolyglucosides. Mention may in particular be made of stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol and polysorbate 20. Amongst the polyalkylglucosides, mention may be made, for example, of the products sold by HENKEL under the name APG, such as the APG 300, APG 350 products, APG 500, APG 550, APG 625, APG base 10-12; the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the trade names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX NS 10); those sold by B.A.F. under the name LUTENSOL GD 70; sold by HENKEL under the names PLANTAREN 1200, PLANTAREN 1300, PLANTAREN 2000, and PLANTACARE 2000, PLANTACARE 818, PLANTACARE 1200. (iii) Amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic surfactant (s): Amphoteric surfactants or Zwitterionic acids may be in particular (nonlimiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group which is water-solubilising (for example carboxylate). sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate, mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl betaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkylamidoalkyl (Cl -C6) Sulfobetaines Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in the patents US-2 528 378 and US-2 781 354 and classified in the dictionnary CTFA area, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates of respective structures: R2-CONCH2CH2 -N (R3) (R4) (CH2000O-) in which: R2 denotes a linear or branched C5-C20 alkyl radical originating from for example, an R2-COOH acid present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; and R2'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (C) wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) z -Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'denotes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom Y 'denotes -COOH or the radical -CH2 -CHOH-SO3H R2' denotes a linear or branched, saturated or non-saturated C5-C20 alkyl radical of an R9 -COOH acid present for example in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, especially C7, C9, C11 or C13, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 radical. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic Acid, Cocoamphodipropionic Acid . By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by Rhodia Chimie. (iv) Cationic surfactants:

Among the cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character. Mention may in particular be made of methyl alkyl alkylamidoethyl imidazolinium methosulphate (Quaternium-87) marketed by Degussa under the reference VARISOFT W 575 PG, or behenyltrimethylammonium chloride marketed by Clariant under the reference GENAMIN KDMP. There may also be mentioned cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride. It is also possible to use, as cationic surfactants, the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (VII): ## STR2 ## (C 1 H 2 SO 4) ## STR2 ## wherein: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R 23 is chosen from: ## STR1 ## the radical ## STR5 ## the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals R 1 -C 22,

- the hydrogen atom,

R 25 is chosen from: ## STR1 ## the Ria radical ## STR1 ## the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals R 1 -C 6,

- the hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

y is an integer from 1 to 10;

x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29.

The alkyl radicals R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon radical R 27, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 radical, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2 The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (VII) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; - r, set are equal to 2;

- R23 is chosen from O I I - the R26-C- radical - methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals, - the hydrogen atom

R 25 is chosen from O I I - the radical R 28 C - - the hydrogen atom

- R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or branched C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals; unsaturated.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.

For example, compounds of formula (VII) such as the salts (especially chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl-

dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl

methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl

methylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium,

monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by esterification

direct triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methane methyl sulfonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are for example sold under the names DEHYQUART by Henkel, STEPANQUAT by STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 by REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may preferably contain a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. As a mixture of ammonium salts, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium methyl sulfate and 15 to 30% triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, acyl radicals having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and from partially partially hydrogenated palm oil. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. The surfactant or surfactants generally represent from 0 to 20%, preferably from 0.05 to 10%, more preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

As explained above, the composition according to the invention may contain one or more preferably non-silicone fatty substances such as vegetable, animal, mineral and synthetic oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and waxes. By fatty alcohol is meant in the sense of the present invention, any pure saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol, linear or branched having at least 8 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH, in which R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated radical containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30; R preferably denotes a C12-C24 alkyl or C12-C24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. As examples of fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl, cetyl, dodecyl, decyl, stearyl, oleic, behenic, linoleic, undecylenic, palmitoleic, arachidonic, erucic alcohols and mixtures thereof. The fatty alcohol can be a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that in a commercial product can coexist several species of fatty alcohols in the form of a mixture.

As a mixture of fatty alcohols, there may be mentioned cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Advantageously, the non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol is solid or pasty at a temperature of 25 ° C. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid or pasty fatty alcohol" means a fatty alcohol having a viscosity measured with a rheometer with a shear rate of 1% greater than or equal to 1 Pa · s. Preferably, the fatty alcohols used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

The fatty alcohol may also be an ethoxylated fatty alcohol. By fatty acids is meant in the sense of the present invention, any pure carboxylic acid saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched having at least 8 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty acid, mention may be made of lauric acid and oleic acid.

As explained above, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fixing polymers. The fixing polymers that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen especially from cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers and their mixtures. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fixing polymer" is intended to mean any polymer which makes it possible to impart a shape or to maintain a given shape or hairstyle.

The fixing polymers that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen especially from cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers and their mixtures.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups. The cationic fixing polymers that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from polymers containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly connected thereto, and having a number-average molecular weight of from 500 to about 5,000,000, and preferably from 1,000 to 3,000,000; wherein: R1 and R2, which are the same or different, each represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the following cationic polymers: (1) homopolymers or copolymers of acrylate or methacrylic esters or amides with amino functions, comprising at least one of the following units of formula: I3 I3

## STR2 ## wherein R 1 is CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C

RZ [X] [X] R5 R5 R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; A is a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; X denotes a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of family (1) also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyl groups (C1.4 ), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: the copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl acrylamide and methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES, the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, the vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, whether or not quaternized, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by ISP, for example by example, "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or the products referred to as "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 9 37 ". These polymers are described in detail in French Pat. Nos. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers. quaternized dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, such as in particular the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP; (2) cationic polysaccharides, preferably quaternary ammonium, such as those described in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 by the company MEYHALL; (3) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole; (4) chitosans or their salts; the salts that can be used are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate.

Among these compounds, mention may be made of chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name KYTAN BRUT STANDARD by the company ABER TECHNOLOGIES, the pyrrolidone carboxylate of chitosan sold under the name KYTAMER PC by the company AMERCHOL . (5) cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and described especially in US Pat. No. 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl-cellulose grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "CELQUAT L 200" and "CELQUAT H 100" by the company National Starch. The anionic fixing polymers generally used are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid and have a number-average molecular mass of between about 500 and 5,000,000. The carboxylic groups are provided by mono- or diacid monomers. unsaturated carboxylic acids such as those of formula (VIII) in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, Al denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than at 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, R9 denotes an atom hydrogen, a lower alkyl group, a -CH 2 -COOH group, phenyl or benzyl. In the abovementioned formula, a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular the methyl and ethyl groups. The anionic fixing polymers containing carboxylic groups that can be used in a preferred manner according to the invention are: A) copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salts under the names RETEN R 7 (Al) n -COOH R 9 421, 423 or 425 by the company HERCULES, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,222,944 and German Application No. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated such as described in particular in the Luxembourg patent applications Nos. 75370 and 75371 or proposed under the name QUADRAMER by AMERICAN CYANAMID. Mention may also be made of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold in particular under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by BASF and methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name LUVIMER 100 P by BASF.

Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymers in aqueous dispersion, sold under the name AMERHOLD DR 25 by the company AMERCHOL. C) Crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ethers or vinyl esters of a saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers may optionally be grafted or crosslinked, or another vinyl ester, allylic or methallyl monomer of a carboxylic acid a- or (3- Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French Patents 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110 and 2,439,798. 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 marketed by the company National Starch D) copolymers of C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from: (i) one or more maleic, fumaric and itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113 and GB Patent No. 839,805. Commercial products are especially those sold under the names GANTREZ AN or ES by ISP company. copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic and itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters optionally containing one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin or acrylic or methacrylic ester groups; acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified. These polymers are, for example, described in French patents Nos. 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the applicant. E) Polyacrylamides having carboxylate groups. F) homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulphonic groups and in particular polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrene-sulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic or acrylamidoalkylsulphonic units. These polymers may be chosen in particular from: - the salts of polyvinylsulphonic acid having a molecular mass of between about 1,000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone. the salts of polystyrene-sulphonic acid, such as the sodium salts sold, for example, under the names Flexan 500 and Flexan 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719. - polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128,631, and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid sold under the name COSMEDIA POLYMER HSP 1180 by Henkel. Preferably, the anionic fixing polymers are chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold in particular under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid. such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the GANTREZ name by the ISP company, the meth-acid copolymers acrylic acid and methyl methacrylate sold under the name EUDRAGIT L by the company ROHM PHARMA, copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name LUVIMER MAEX or MAE by the company BASF and copolymers vinyl acetate / crotonic acid sold in particular under the name Luviset CA 66 by the company BASF and vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyethylene glycol sold under the name ARISTOFLEX A by the company BASF.

The amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer having one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or B and C may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines; B and C may also designate a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or B and C are part of a chain of an ethylene-α, β-dicarboxylic polymer having one of the carboxylic groups reacted with a polyamine having one or more primary or secondary amine groups. Amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above, which are more particularly preferred, are chosen from the following polymers: (1) copolymers with acidic vinylic patterns and with basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid e, maleic acid, alpha-chloro acrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as more particularly methacrylate and dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US Pat. No. 3,836,537. (2) Polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by a alkyl group, b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds whose alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides. The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides. Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. The copolymers whose CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used. (3) polyamino amides crosslinked and acylated partially or totally derived from poyaminoamides of general formula: ## STR2 ## wherein R 10 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic acid mono or dicarboxylic double bond ethylenic , a lower alkanol ester having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a group derived from the addition of any of said acids with a bis-primary or bis-secondary amine, and Z denotes a group derived from a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the group

Where X = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2 this group derived from diethylene triamine, triethylenetetraamine or dipropylene triamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group (XVIII) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from piperazine: c) in the proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the -NH-20 (CH 2) 6 -NH- group derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by the addition reaction of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane-sultone or their salts. The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic acid, p (X) terephthalic acid, ethylenically double bonded acids such as, for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids.

The alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.

(4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula: ## STR2 ##

in which R11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer of 1 to 3, R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group; R14 and R15 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14 and R15 does not exceed 10.

The polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.

By way of example, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethylmethacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by Sandoz.

(5) polymers derived from chitosan having monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas: ## STR2 ##

Wherein the unit (D) is present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (E) in proportions of between 5 and 50%, and the unit (F) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit (F), R16 represents a group of formula:

18 i 19 R17 C (0) q

in which if q = 0, R 17, R 18 and R 19, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or more carbon atoms. nitrogen and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio, sulphonic groups, an alkylthio radical whose alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of the groups R17, R18 and R19 being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q = 1, R 17, R 18 and R 19 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids. (6) The polymers comprising units corresponding to the general formula (XI) are, for example, described in French Patent 1,400,366: R 20 (CH 2 CH 2) CH CH COOH CO R 24 (XI) in which R 20 represents a hydrogen atom. hydrogen, CH3O, CH3CH2O, phenyl, R21 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, R22 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl R23 denotes a C1-C6 lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24-N (R22) 2, R24 representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2- , -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) -, R 22 having the meanings mentioned above. (7) The polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan, sold under the name "Evalsan" by Jan Dekker. (8) Amphoteric polymers of the -D-X-D-X type chosen from: a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula

Where D denotes a group and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E', which may be identical or different, denotes a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group comprising up to 7 atoms; carbon in the main chain unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which may further comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide groups, alcohol, ester and / or urethane. b) polymers of formula: -D-X-D-X- (XIII) where D denotes a group and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betaineized by reaction with the acid; chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate. (9) (C1-C5) alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkanol. These copolymers may also comprise other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam. Among the amphoteric fixing polymers described above, the most particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (3) such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylamino-ethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names AMPHOMER, AMPHOMER LV 71 or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH and those of the family (4) such as methyl methacrylate / dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethylmethacrylate copolymers sold for example under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by SANDOZ. The nonionic fixing polymers that can be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from: polyalkyloxazolines; homopolymers of vinyl acetate; vinyl acetate copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example, dibutyl maleate; homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates such as the products offered by the company Rohm & Haas under the names PRIMAL AC-261 K and EUDRAGIT NE 30 D, by the company BASF under the name 8845, by the company HOECHST under the name APPRETAN N9212; copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; mention may be made of the products sold under the name CJ 0601 B by the company Rohm &Haas; homopolymers of styrene; styrene copolymers such as, for example, styrene and alkyl (meth) acrylate copolymers such as Mowilith LDM 6911, Mowilith DM 611 and Mowilith LDM 6070 products supplied by Hoechst, RHODOPAS SD 215 and RHODOPAS DS 910 offered by RHODIA CHIMIE; copolymers of styrene, alkyl methacrylate and alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine; polyamides; homopolymers of vinyllactam such as the homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol PLUS by the company BASF; and copolymers of vinyllactam such as a poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec VPC 55K65W by the company BASF, polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVPVA S630L by the ISP company, Luviskol VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by BASF; and poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate) terpolymers such as, for example, that marketed under the name Luviskol VAP 343 by the company BASF. The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Can also be used as fixing polymers, functionalized or non-functionalized polyurethanes, silicone or non-silicone, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric, or mixtures thereof. The polyurethanes particularly targeted by the present invention are those described in the applications EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297 of which the applicant is the holder, as well as in the applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 of the company BASF, and EP 0 619 111 of the company National Starch. As polyurethanes particularly suitable in the present invention, mention may be made of the products sold under the names LUVISET PUR and LUVISET Si PUR by the company BASF. The fixing polymer (s) is (are) present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. As explained above, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polymeric thickeners or not.

As polymeric thickeners, there may be mentioned crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers (INCI name: CARBOMER) and nonionic or anionic associative polyurethanes, such as compounds ACULYN 44 and 46, and VISCOPHOBE DB 1000.

By cosmetically acceptable medium is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials and in particular the hair. The cosmetically acceptable medium may generally comprise water or a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable water-soluble solvent. The water-soluble cosmetically acceptable solvent may be chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, polyols, polyol ethers, C5-C10 alkanes, C3-C4 ketones and C1-C4 alkyl acetates. dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention can be in the form of cream, paste or in the form of foam (aerosol or not), or gel.

When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a foam, it can be packaged in an aerosol. In this case, it comprises one or more propellants. The propellant (s) is (are) chosen from non-liquefied compressed gases, such as air, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide or dimethyl ether, or from liquefied gases such as volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, isobutane, propane, pentane and halogenated hydrocarbons. For example, a mixture of one or more volatile hydrocarbons can be used with dimethyl ether. The foam can still be obtained without thruster by means of a pump bottle. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application to the keratin materials, preferably the keratinous fibers, preferably the hair, of a cosmetic composition as defined above, whether or not followed by rinsing. The composition according to the invention may especially be used in hair styling compositions or in shampoos.

The present invention is illustrated by the following example.

Example

A composition A according to the invention comprising glycerol and Viscoplast 14436H is prepared which is a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of butanediol and dilinoleic acid (dimer of linoleic acid). A composition B identical to A is prepared in parallel, but in which the glycerin is replaced by propylene glycol.

The formulation of compositions A and B is given in Table 1. The contents are given by weight of active ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition. Table 1 Composition A Composition B Viscoplast 14436H 3 3 Glycerine 10-Propylene Glycol-10 Carbomer , 8 0.8 Polyvinylpyrrolidone 2 2 Preservative, Qs Qs Neutralizing, Water Perfume Qs 100 Qs 100 The performance of composition A according to the invention was evaluated by professionals on model panels, in comparison with composition B. By With respect to composition B, composition A according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a higher level of gloss, with a touch that is less greasy and less tacky. 45

Claims (11)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium one or more liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer and diol, and glycerin. 2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the polyester or polyesters are obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and / or from an unsaturated fatty acid trimer comprising from 42 to 66 carbon atoms. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the diol is a saturated linear diol. 4. Composition according to claim 3 characterized in that the diol is a butanediol. 5. Composition according to claim 4 characterized in that the butanediol is selected from 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol and 1,4-butanediol. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the polyester or polyesters represent from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 20%, better still from 1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glycerin represents from 1 to 30%, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more cosmetic additives chosen from silicones, fatty substances, surfactants, fixing polymers, fibers, mineral particles, perfumes, preservatives and the like. floral waters, essential oils, plasticisers, glycols, sunscreens, basifying agents, acidifying agents, preservatives, permanent or temporary dyes, mineral fillers, flakes, conditioners, antifoam agents , moisturizing agents, humectants, emollients, polymeric or non-polymeric thickeners, peptizers, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and provitamins, proteins, sequestering agents, solubilizing agents, agents oxidizing agents, anti-corrosion agents and reducing or antioxidants. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable medium comprises water or a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable water-soluble solvent. 10. The composition as claimed in claim 9, characterized in that the water-soluble cosmetically acceptable solvent is chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, polyols, polyol ethers, C5-C10 alkanes and C3-C4 ketones. C1-C4 alkyl acetates, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane, and mixtures thereof. 11. Cosmetic treatment process comprising the application to keratin materials, preferably keratinous fibers, preferably the hair, of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.