FR2961395A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A BRANCHED SULFONIC POLYESTER AND A PARTICULATE THICKENER AND STAPLING USES - Google Patents

Abstract

The present application relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (i) one or more branched sulphonic polyesters and (ii) one or more polyvinyl alcohols. The present application also relates to the uses of this composition, in particular for styling and shaping hair.

Description

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising one or more branched sulphonic polyesters and one or more polyvinyl alcohols as thickening polymers, as well as the uses of these compositions in particular. styling. The present invention also relates to a process for capping keratin materials using these compositions. The use of branched sulphonic polyesters in hair styling and fixing compositions is known and described, for example, in patent applications EP 0 966 946, WO 98/38969 and WO 99/63955. Nevertheless, the use of branched sulphonic polyesters is not without disadvantages: the use of these polyesters in hair lakes containing large amounts of alcohol generally gives good styling properties but does not make it possible to obtain satisfactory lacquering power. ; the application of these polyesters in the form of lacquers with a high alcohol content gives the hair, after brushing, a dry feel; this undesirable phenomenon is particularly visible for dyed hair; These polyesters are generally in the form of semisolid, this property makes their implementation often difficult, in particular, it is often difficult to ensure a homogeneous distribution of these polyesters throughout the hair to be treated. Unexpectedly and advantageously, the Applicant has demonstrated that the use of one or more branched sulphonic polyesters with one or more thickening polymers of polyvinyl alcohol type overcomes the aforementioned drawbacks. The present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more branched sulphonic polyesters and one or more polyvinyl alcohols. The compositions obtained are in the form of gels, foams, sprays, creams, pastes. The compositions according to the present invention are easy to prepare and apply. They remain well located without sagging at the point of application. The compositions according to the present invention can be applied without a drop in viscosity over time. In addition, the compositions according to the present invention make it possible to give the hairstyle a natural and durable hold. The present invention also relates to a process for capping keratin materials, preferably human keratin materials and in particular the hair using the compositions according to the invention. The subject of the present invention is also the uses of the compositions according to the invention, in particular for styling, shaping of keratin materials, preferably human keratin materials and in particular the hair. Other features, aspects, objects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

For the purposes of the present application, the term "polyvinyl alcohol" is intended to mean a polymer comprising -CH 2 CH (OH) - units. The branched sulphonic polyesters used in the compositions of the present invention are known in the prior art. Their structure and synthesis are described in the documents WO 95/18191, WO 97/08261 and WO 97/20899. Branched sulphonic polyesters obtained by polycondensation are especially preferred: (a) at least one dicarboxylic acid not carrying a sulphonic function, (b) at least one diol or a mixture of a diol and a diamine, (c) at least one monomer having two identical or different reactive functional groups selected from hydroxyl, amino and carboxyl groups, and further bearing at least one sulfonic function, and (d) at least one monomer comprising at least three reactive functions, identical or different, chosen from hydroxyl, amino and carboxyl groups. The dicarboxylic acids forming units (a) may be aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, alicyclic dicarboxylic acids, aromatic dicarboxylic acids and mixtures of such acids. Examples that may be mentioned include 1,4-cyclohexanedioic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, and acid. maleic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedioic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid and mixtures of such acids. The diols forming units (b) are chosen, for example, from alkanediols and polyalkylenediols and mention may be made, for example, of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol. The diamines capable of forming part of the units (b) are preferably chosen from alkanediamines and poly (oxyalkylene) diamines.

The term "sulfonic function" of units (c) encompasses both the sulfonic acid (-SO 3 H) function and the corresponding salified functions obtained by neutralizing the sulfonic acid function with a base, for example an alkali metal hydroxide. The sulfonic functions are preferably in the form neutralized with an organic or inorganic base. The units (c) are derived, for example, from dicarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acid esters, glycols and hydroxy acids, all of them bearing at least one sulphonic group, in acidic and / or neutralized form, preferably in neutralized form. . The units (c) bearing at least one sulphonic function preferably represent from 2 to 15 mol% of all the monomers. The units (d) derived from multifunctional monomers are preferably present in an amount of between 0.1 and 40 mol% relative to all the monomers. The multifunctional monomers forming units (d) are chosen, for example, from trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimellitic anhydride, erythritol, threitol, dipentaerythritol, pyromellitic dianhydride, and the like. dimethylpropionic acid. The branched sulphonic polyesters may comprise, in addition to the four types of units (a) to (d) described above, units (e) derived from monomers comprising two different reactive functional groups, chosen, for example, from hydroxy carboxylic acids and amino acids carboxylic acids or mixtures thereof. These units (e) may represent up to 40 mol% of all the monomers (a), (b), (c), (d) and (e). Of course, the branched sulfonic polymers used in the present invention are preferably obtained from a monomer mixture in which the number of carboxylic acid functional equivalents is substantially equal to the number of equivalents of hydroxyl functions and amino functions. , possibly present. The branched sulfonic polymers used in the hair styling compositions of the present invention are known and marketed for example by the company Eastman. As a preferred commercial product, mention may be made of the product sold under the name AQ 1350® by the company Eastman. The composition according to the present invention advantageously comprises from 0.2 to 15%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, of one or more branched sulphonic polyesters relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention further contains one or more polyvinyl alcohols. These are present as thickening polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickening polymer" means a polymer capable of increasing by at least 50 centipoise at 25 ° C. and at a shear rate of 1%, the viscosity of the medium. Preferably, the 1% thickening polymer in water or a 50/50 weight water / alcohol mixture has a viscosity at 25 ° C and a shear rate of 1 s -1 greater than 100 centipoise. These viscosities can be measured using, in particular, viscometers or rheometers with plane cone geometry.

By polyvinyl alcohol as indicated above is meant a polymer comprising -CH 2 CH (OH) - polyvinyl alcohols are generally produced by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate. Most often the reaction occurs in the presence of methanol (alcoholysis). The reaction is usually catalyzed by the acidic or basic route. The hydrolysis rate of the commercial products is variable, often around 87% but there are also products at 100% hydrolysis rate. There are also copolymers with other monomers than vinyl acetate such as ethylene / vinyl alcohol copolymers.

The polyvinyl alcohol polymers as thickening polymers are preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers with vinyl acetate, the latter in particular corresponding to a partial hydrolysis of the polyvinyl acetate: for example, the products of the polyvinyl alcohol may be used. Celvol range proposed by CELANESE under the names Celvol 540, Celvol 350, Celvol 325, Celvol 165, Celvol 125 Celvol 540 S, Celvol 840, Celvol 443. The composition according to the present invention advantageously comprises from 0.05 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight of one or more polyvinyl alcohols relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the polyvinyl alcohol (s) are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers. More preferably, the copolymer (s) are copolymers with vinyl acetate.

Preferably, the cosmetically acceptable medium is aqueous. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents, preferably in an amount of between 0.05 and 40%, most preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition. This organic solvent may be a lower alcohol C2-C4, in particular ethanol, polyols and polyol ethers such as propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerol.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain other cosmetically acceptable adjuvants, such as, for example, ionic or nonionic surfactants, additional thickeners other than the polyvinyl alcohols used in the compositions according to the present application, and ethoxylated fatty alcohols. or not, co-thickening agents, penetration agents, perfumes, dyes, plasticizers, buffers, and various conventional adjuvants such as waxes, volatile or nonvolatile silicones, cyclic or linear or branched, organomodified especially alkoxylated or modified with amine groups or unmodified groups, for example silicone gums, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils, vitamins or provitamines such as panthenol, opacifiers, reducing agents, emulsifiers, preservatives , mineral fillers, mother-of-pearl, glitter, sunscreens, proteins, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric fixing polymers, moisturizing agents, emollients, softening agents, anti-foam agents, antiperspirants, anti-free radical agents, bactericidal agents, sequestering agents, anti-dandruff agents, antioxidants, alkalinizing agents, acidifying agents, and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair.

The surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO3 2-, H2PO2 HPO2, HPO2-, PO2-, POH, PO-. Examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention include alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates and alpha sulphonates. olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, alkyl monoester salts and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl acid salts aryl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C6-24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and polyglycoside sulphosuccinates. C6-24 alkyl.

When the anionic surfactant (ii) is in salt form, it can be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the alkyl sulphate and alkyl ether sulfate salts and their mixtures.

Nonionic surfactants are also well-known compounds per se (see, in particular, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and having a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of groups ethylene oxide or propylene oxide ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, oxide condensates ethylene and propylene on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) alkyl oxides or oxides N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. It will be noted that alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants that fall particularly well within the scope of the present invention.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3-8 alkyl) betaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 6 -C 8 alkyl) sulphobetainesSuch as the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines optionally quaternized utilizable, as defined above, one can also mention the compounds of respective structures (Al) and (A2) following:

Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) (CH2O0-) (Al)

in which: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

and Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (A2) wherein: B is -CH2CH2OX', B 'is - (CH2) z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'is the group -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom, Y 'represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2- CHOH-SO3Z ', Z' represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine. Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 group and its iso form, unsaturated C17 group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionique, cocoamphodipropionique acid By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants that are well known per se, such as primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides. tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium, imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character.

The nonionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants described above may be used alone or in mixtures and their amount is between 0.01% and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 20% by weight and better still between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The additional gelling agents and / or thickeners different from the polyvinyl alcohols of the invention and suitable for the compositions of the invention are well known in the art and can be selected from poly (oxyalkylene) glycols, poly (oxyalkylene) esters. glycols, alginates, biosaccharides, starch derivatives, natural gums such as xanthan, guar, carob gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, clays, and mixtures thereof . By way of example of gelling agents, in particular in the aqueous phase, there may be mentioned the FUCOGEL® 1000 PP marketed by the company SOLABIA, the SATIAGEL® KSO marketed by DEGUSSA and the KELTROL® sold by the company KELCO. The additional gelling agents generally represent from 0.05 to 15%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition.

The silicones that may be used as additives in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or cyclic, linear or branched, volatile or non-volatile organic silicones with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2. / s at 25 ° C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1m2 / s.

The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition and in particular may be polyorganosiloxanes that are insoluble in the composition of the invention. They can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of the formula: ## STR1 ## D "-D" D "-D'-1 H 3 I H 3 with D" Si-O- with D ': Si-O-CH 3 C 8 H 17. Cyclic silicone mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 atoms of silicon and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5.10.6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name "SH 200" by the company Toray Silicone. class are also described in the article published in Cosmet ics and Toiletries, Vol 91, Jan. 76, p 27-32 - TODD & BYERS Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics. Non-volatile silicones, and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to the ASTM 445 Appendix C standard. Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polymethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are poly (C1-C20) alkylsiloxanes.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from po-lydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series RHODIA; RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series of RHODIA oils; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning; the silicones of the PK series of BAYER, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN, PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are, in particular, polyorganosiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000. and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures. Mention may be made more particularly of the following products: polydimethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums. Products that can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as: mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R2SiO2 / 2, R3SiO1 / 2, RStO312 and St0412 wherein R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl or a phenyl group.

Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C 12) -methicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939, or Dow Corning 2-8299 by the company DOW CORNING or the product marketed under the name BELSIL ADM LOG 1 by WACKER. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72A and GP 71 of GENESEE. alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT. hydroxyl groups, such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganoxiloxanes described in the French patent application FRA-8,516,334; alkoxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732; anionic groups of the carboxylic type, for example, in the products described in patent EP 186 507 of the company Chisso Corporation, or of alkyl-carboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu ; 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulphate, such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names ABIL® 5201 and ABIL® S255; hydroxyacrylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP 342 834. There may be mentioned, for example, the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning. The silicones as described above may be used alone or as a mixture, in an amount of between 0.01 and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight.

The compositions of the invention may also comprise non-silicone fatty substances such as mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils, waxes, fatty esters, ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated fatty alcohols, and fatty acids. As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®; isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane. partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in JP-A-2-295912; as fluorinated oils, mention may also be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PC1" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M; The wax or the waxes are chosen in particular from Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ; other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general. The saturated or unsaturated fatty acids are chosen more particularly from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. . The fatty esters are in particular the carboxylic acid esters, in particular the mono, di, tri or tetracarboxylic esters. The carboxylic acid esters are in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic acids and linear or branched C 1 -C 26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alcohols, the total number of carbon of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate. It is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 26 di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols. These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate and neopentyl glycol diheptanoate. The esters mentioned above are different from the esters of formula (I). Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate and alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate. butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate. Fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol. Fatty substances generally represent from 0.1 to 50%; preferably 1 to 30%, and even more preferably 2 to 20% by weight of the total composition.

As indicated above, the compositions may comprise fixing polymers that are different from the polymers used according to the invention. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fixing polymer" is intended to mean any polymer which makes it possible to impart a shape to the hair or to maintain the hair in a given form.

All anionic, cationic, amphoteric, nonionic fixing polymers and mixtures thereof used in the art can be used in the compositions according to the present application.

The fixing polymers may be soluble in the cosmetically acceptable medium or insoluble in the same medium and used in this case in the form of dispersions of solid or liquid polymer particles (latex or pseudolatex). The anionic fixing polymers generally used are polymers containing groups. carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid derivatives and have a number average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5,000,000. The preferred anionic fixing polymers with carboxylic groups according to the invention are: A) copolymers of acrylic acid and dicarboxylic acid; acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salts under the names RETEN 421, 423 or 425 by the company HERCULES, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids; B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,222,944 and German Application No. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated such as described in particular in the Luxembourg patent applications Nos. 75370 and 75371 or proposed under the name QUADRAMER by the company AMERICAN CYANAMID. Mention may also be made of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers, such as theULTRAHOLD STRONG sold by the company BASF. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C 1 -C 4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid and of C 1 -C 20 alkyl methacrylate, for example lauryl, such as sold by ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE® LM and methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers, such as the product marketed under the name LUVIMER® 100 P by the company BASF; Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymers in aqueous dispersion, sold under the name AMERHOLD® DR 25 by the company Amerchol; C) Crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ethers or vinyl esters of a saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers may optionally be grafted or crosslinked, or another vinyl ester, allylic or methallyl monomer of a carboxylic acid a- or (3- Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French Patents 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110 and 2,439,798. 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 marketed by the company National Starch; D) copolymers of C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from: taking (i) one or more maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113 and GB Patent No. 839,805. Commercial products are especially those sold under the names GANTREZ® AN or ES by the ISP company; copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic and itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters optionally containing one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin or acrylic or methacrylic ester groups; acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified. These polymers are for example described in the French patents Nos. 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the Applicant; E) Polyacrylamides having carboxylate groups. F) homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulphonic groups such as polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrene-sulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic or acrylamidoalkylsulphonic units other than the branched sulphonic polyesters used according to the invention. These polymers may especially be chosen from: - the salts of polyvinylsulphonic acid having a molecular weight of between about 1,000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone; the salts of polystyrene-sulphonic acid, such as the sodium salts sold, for example, under the name Flexan® 500 and Flexan® 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719; the polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128,631, and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid sold under the name COSMEDIA POLYMER HSP 1180 by HENKEL. As another anionic fixing polymer that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the plugged anionic block polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by the company LUBRIZOL. According to the invention, the anionic fixing polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers or acrylic esters such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold in particular under the name ULTRAHOLD® STRONG by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as terpolymers vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as methylvinylether / maleic anhydride copolymers monoesterified sold, for example, under the name GANTREZ® by the s the ISP company, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name EUDRAGIT® L by the company ROHM PHARMA, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX or MAE by BASF and the vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers sold under the name Luviset CA 66 by the company BASF and the vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyethylene glycol sold under the name ARISTOFLEX® A by the company BASF, the polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by LUBRIZOL. The cationic fixing film-forming polymers that can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly connected thereto, and having a molecular weight included between 500 and about 5,000,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 3,000,000.

Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the following cationic polymers:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units: R3, R3, -Cl1 C- -Cl1C- or -Cl1C2 Wherein R3 is hydrogen or CH3; A is a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; R1 and R2, which are identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; X denotes a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of family (1) also contain one or more comonomer-derived units which may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyl groups (Cl- C4), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinyl esters, vinyl esters or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: the copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC® by the HERCULES company, the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described for example in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, whether or not quaternized, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT®" by the company ISP, for example " GAFQUAT® 734 "or" GAFQUAT® 755 "or products referred to as" COPOLYMER® 845, 958 and 937 ". These polymers are described in detail in French Pat. Nos. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, the polymers with a fatty chain and with a vinylpyrrolidone unit, such as the products sold under the name Stylèze W20 and Stylèze W10 by ISP, and terpolymers. dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, and the quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT® HS 100" by the company ISP (2) non-cellulosic, preferably quaternary ammonium cationic polysaccharides such as those described in US Patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 by MEYHALL. (3) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole; (4) chitosans or their salts; the salts that can be used are, in particular, the acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate of chitosan. Among these compounds, mention may be made of chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name KYTAN BRUT STANDARD by ABER TECHNOLOGIES, the pyrrolidone carboxylate of chitosan sold under the name KYTAMER® PC by the company AMERCHOL. (5) cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl cellulose grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "CELQUAT L 200" and "CELQUAT H 100" by the company National Starch. The amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer having one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or B and C may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines; B and C may also designate a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or B and C are part of a chain of an ethylene-α, β-dicarboxylic polymer having one of the carboxylic groups reacted with a polyamine having one or more primary or secondary amine groups. Amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above, which are more particularly preferred, are chosen from the following polymers: (1) copolymers with acidic vinylic patterns and with basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacryl acid ique, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, methacrylate and dialkylamino alkyl acrylate, dialkylamino alkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US Pat. No. 3,836,537. (2) Polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by a alkyl group, b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds whose alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides. The acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides. Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.

The copolymers whose CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used. (3) polyamino amides crosslinked and acylated partially or totally derived from polyaminoamides of general formula: ~ CO-R 10 -CO-Z I (IX) in which R 10 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic acid ethylenically double-bonded mono or dicarboxylic acid ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a group derived from the addition of any of said acids with a bis-primary amine or bis-secondary, and Z denotes a group derived from a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylenepolyamine and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the H (CH 2) group; ) x N] p (X) where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2 this group derived from diethylene triamine, triethylene tetraamine or dipropylene triamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group (X) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from piperazine: -NN c) in the proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the -NH- (CH 2) 6 -NH- group derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by the addition reaction of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane-sultone or their salts. The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic acids, terephthalic acids, and double acids. ethylenic bond such as, for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids. The alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts. (4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula: embedded image in which R 11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate group, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide, y and z represent an integer of 1 to 3, R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, R14 and R15 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14 and R15 does not exceed 10. The polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or acrylates. or alkyl methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate. By way of example, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate / dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by Sandoz. (5) polymers derived from chitosan having monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas: -O- (D) H NH 2 (F) H NH c = o 1 R 16 -COOH the unit (D) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (E) in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the unit (F) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit (F) R 16 represents a group of formula R 17 C (O) q wherein q = 0, R 17, R 18 and R 19, which may be identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulphonic groups, an alkylthio radical whose alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of R17, R18 and R19 groups being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q = 1, R 17, R 18 and R 19 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids. (6) The polymers with units corresponding to the general formula (XII) are, for example, described in French Patent 1,400,366: ## STR5 ## in which R 2 represents a hydrogen atom , a group CH3O, CH3CH2O, phenyl, R21 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, R22 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group C1-C6 such as methyl, ethyl, R23 denotes a C1-C6 lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24-N (R22) 2, R24 representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, - CH2-CH (CH3) -, R22 having the meanings mentioned above (7) The polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan, sold under the name "Evalsan" by JAN DEKKER (8) Amphoteric polymers of the -DXDX type chosen from: a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula: -DXDXD- (XIII) where D denotes a group -N N- / and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E ', which are identical or different, denote a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the unsubstituted or hydroxyl-substituted chain and may further include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide groups, alcohol, ester and / or urethane. b) polymers of formula: -D-X-D-X- (XIV) where D denotes a group and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and having obligatorily one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with the acid; chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate. (9) (C1-C5) alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkanol. These copolymers may also comprise other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam. Among the amphoteric fixing polymers mentioned above that are most particularly preferred according to the invention, mention will be made of those of the family (3) such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold. under the names AMPHOMER®, AMPHOMER® LV 71 or LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company National Starch and those of the family (4) such as methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethylmethacrylate copolymers sold for example under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ. The nonionic fixing polymers that can be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from: polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers; vinyl acetate copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example, dibutyl maleate; homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters, such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates such as the products offered by the company Rohm & Haas under the names PRIMAL® AC-261 K and EUDRAGIT® NE 30D, by the company BASF under the name 8845, by the company HOECHST under the name APPRETAN® N9212; copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; mention may be made of the products sold under the name CJ 0601 B by the company Rohm &Haas; homopolymers of styrene; styrene copolymers such as, for example, styrene and alkyl (meth) acrylate copolymers such as Mowilith® LDM 6911, Mowilith® DM 611 and Mowilith® LDM 6070 products supplied by the company Hoechst, the RHODOPAS products ® SD 215 and RHODOPAS® DS 910 offered by RHONE POULENC; copolymers of styrene, alkyl methacrylate and alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine; polyamides; homopolymers of vinyllactam such as homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and such as polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® PLUS by the company BASF; and copolymers of vinyllactam such as a poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by BASF, polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVPVA® S630L by ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by BASF; and poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate) terpolymers such as, for example, that marketed under the name Luviskol® VAP 343 by the company BASF. The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. According to the invention, it is also possible to use fixing polymers of grafted silicone type, comprising a polysiloxane part and a part consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two parts constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto said main chain. These polymers are for example described in patent applications EP-AO 412 704, EP-AO 412 707, EP-AO 640 105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-0 582 152 and WO 93/23009 and US Patents 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037. These polymers may be amphoteric, anionic or nonionic, and they are preferably anionic or nonionic.

Such polymers are, for example, the copolymers that can be obtained by radical polymerization from the monomer mixture formed: a) from 50 to 90% by weight of t-butyl acrylate, b) from 0 to 40% by weight acrylic acid, c) from 5 to 40% by weight of a silicone macromer of the formula ## STR1 ##

## STR2 ## where v is a number ranging from 5 to 700, the percentages by weight being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.

Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connection link, mixed polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and poly (alkyl) (meth) acrylate), and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connecting member, polymeric units of the polyisobutyl (meth) acrylate type. . Another type of silicone fixing polymers that may be mentioned is the Luviflex® Silk product marketed by BASF. Can also be used as fixing polymers, functionalized or non-functionalized polyurethanes, silicone or non-silicone, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric, or mixtures thereof. The polyurethanes particularly targeted by the present invention are those described in the applications EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297 of which the applicant is the holder, as well as in the applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 of the company BASF, and EP 0 619 111 of the company National Starch. As polyurethanes particularly suitable in the present invention, mention may be made of the products sold under the names LUVISET PUR® and LUVISET® Si PUR by the company BASF. The concentration of fixing polymer (s) used in the compositions according to the present invention is between 0.1 and 20%, preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art would be able to add the additives without disturbing the properties of the compositions of the invention. Preferably, the compositions are in the form of gels. Preferably, the compositions have a viscosity greater than 500 cps at a temperature of 25 ° C and a shear rate of 1 sec. When the composition according to the invention is packaged in an aerosol device, it comprises at least one propellant, which may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons, such as N-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane and hydrocarbons. halogenated compounds and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, or compressed air as propellant. It is also possible to use propellant mixtures. Preferably, dimethyl ether is used. Advantageously, the propellant is present at a concentration of between 5 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device, and more particularly at a concentration of between 10 and 60%. The composition according to the invention may especially be used in a non-rinsed application on the hair. The subject of the invention is also a process for shaping the hair, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. In particular, the invention relates to a styling process comprising applying a composition according to the invention to the hair, optionally rinsing the hair, and then shaping and drying the hair.

The examples which follow illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. Examples

The following compositions were carried out. The concentrations are expressed in grams of active ingredients per 100 grams of composition. Raw Material Supplier ABCDE POLYVINYL ALCOHOL (Celvol CELANESE 8 3 10 1 5 540) CHEMICALS D Polymer) POLYESTER-13 (Eastman AQ 10 CHEMICAL EASTMAN 2 1 3,5 2,5 1,3 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (Carbopol 1382) LUBRIZOL 0.5 LUBRIZOL CARBOMER (Carbopol 980) HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR (Jaguar HP120 ACRYLATES / ST EAR ETH -20 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (Aculyn 22) RHODIA ROHM AND HAAS (DOW CHEMICAL) BENZOPHENONE-4 (Uvinul MS40) BASF 0.1 SORBITOL PROPYLENE GLYCOL GLYCERINE Ethanol AM P-ACRYLATES / ALKYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (Fixate GI00-L Polymer) DOW CHEMICAL ROLE OLEON BP NOVA Polyvinylpyrrolidone ISP ISP BASF VP / ACRYLATES / LAURYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER LM Lidone (Cremophor RH410) Fragrance 0.2 0.1 0.3 3 1.5 TRIETHANOLAMINE BASF 0.8 1.3 0.3 ANGUS (DOW 2AMINO2METHYLIPROPANOL 0.6 CHEMICAL) ....................... ....................... ....................... ... .................... ....................... ....... ................ ....................... CONSERVATIVES 0.3 0.3 0 , 3 0.3 qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp WATER 100g 100g 100g 100g 100g Examples of formulations (Styling Foams): In% MA Raw Materials Supplier FGH POLYVINYL ALCOHOL (Celvol CELANESE 0.95 3,6 1,76 4,75 540 ) CHEMICALS POLYESTER-13 (Eastman AQ EASTMAN 0.95 1.8 2.2 1.43 10 D Polymer) CHEMICAL Ethanol BP 2.85 PROPYLENE GLYCOL GLYCERIN DOW CHEMICAL OLEON 2.85 2.7 2.6 4.4 2 , 85 POLYQUATERN IU M -4 (Celquat VP / VA COPOLYMER (Luviskol PEG / PPG-17/18 DIMETHICONE (Dow Corning Q2 5220) AM P-ACRYLATES / ALLYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (Fixate GI00-L Polymer) AMODIMETHICONE (and) TRIDECETH- 6 (and) CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE (Dow Corning 2-8,299) VA64) LOR) DOW CORNING DOW CORNING AKZO NOBEL NOVEON BASF 5.3 0.48 0.54 0.95 1.5 LAURETH-4 (BRIJ L4 CRODA 0.19 DECYL GLUCOSIDE (Oramix NS 10) SEPPIC 0.25 Fragrance 0.1 0.18 PHENOXYETHANOL CLARIANT 0.48 0.8 0.62 0.48 ISOBUTANE (and) BUTANE REPSOL 5 10 12 5 PRESERVATIVES 0.1 (and) PROPANE (Propel 45) WATER qs 100 g qs 100 g qs 100 g qs 100 g These compositions are easy to distribute and give the hair a good fixation.5

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (i) one or more branched sulphonic polyesters and (ii) one or more polyvinyl alcohols. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the branched sulphonic polyester is obtained by polycondensation: (a) at least one dicarboxylic acid not carrying a sulphonic function, (b) at least one diol or a mixture a diol and a diamine, (c) at least one monomer having two identical or different reactive functional groups selected from hydroxyl, amino and carboxyl groups, and further bearing at least one sulphonic function, and d) at least one monomer comprising at least three reactive functions, identical or different, chosen from hydroxyl, amino and carboxyl groups. 3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the branched sulfonic polyester comprises units (e) derived from monomers having two different reactive functional groups, selected from hydroxy carboxylic acids and amino carboxylic acids or mixtures thereof. 4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising from 0.2 to 15%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight of one or more branched sulphonic polyesters relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polyvinyl alcohol (s) is (are) chosen from homopolymers or copolymers. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim wherein the copolymer or copolymers are copolymers with vinyl acetate. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising from 0.05 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight of one or more polyvinyl alcohols relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more surfactants chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactants. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional gelling agents and / or thickeners chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) glycols, poly (oxyalkylene) glycol esters, alginates, biosaccharides, starch derivatives. natural gums such as xanthan, guar, carob gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, clays, and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more compounds chosen from silicones and non-silicone fatty substances chosen from mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils, waxes, fatty esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols or non-ethoxylated, and fatty acids. 11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more fixing polymers chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic fixing polymers. 12. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims for styling, especially for styling or shaping keratin materials, preferably human keratin materials and in particular the hair. 13. A styling method comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 on the hair, optionally rinsing the hair, then shaping and drying the hair.