FR3026297A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING QUATERNARY AMMONIUM CATIONIC SURFACTANTS AND ADDITIONAL CATIONIC SURFACTANTS, AND COSMETIC TREATMENT METHOD - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants of formula (I): in which R1 and R2 represent an unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 11 to 23 carbon atoms, and X is a cosmetically acceptable counterion; and additional cationic surfactants. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular care, cleaning or conditioning of the hair, using this composition.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular capillary compositions, comprising the combination of particular quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants and additional surfactants; the invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using said compositions.

Users of hair care, including type of conditioners, masks, lotion, serum, still want improved performance delivered by common commercial products. In particular, the benefits such as detangling, flexibility, smoothing, softness and nutrition, generally provided by the mask type products, are highly appreciated by consumers with sensitized hair. However, current mask-type hair care products often lead to a heavy hair, which regrows quickly enough, because these products are highly concentrated in conditioning agents.

Consumers are therefore waiting for skincare products combining high cosmetic performance with a composition less concentrated in conditioning agent, which leads to a lighter hair, which tends to regrease less quickly.

The object of the present invention is to propose such cosmetic compositions which are easily applied to the hair and capable of achieving a higher performance of conditioning power than that obtained with the state of the art while using a small amount of ingredients. in the formula, especially a low content of surfactants.

This low concentration of ingredients makes it possible in particular to reduce the weight of the hair, as well as to delay the regreasing. An object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising: - (i) one or more quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants having the formula (I): ## STR2 ## In which: R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent an unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 11 to 23 carbon atoms, and 35 - X is a counter-group; cosmetically acceptable ion; and - (ii) one or more additional cationic surfactants, different from the surfactants of formula (I). (I) It has been found that the compositions according to the invention make it possible to achieve good conditioning performance, in particular without adding silicone to the composition, which offers the possibility of having conditioning formulas without silicone.

In particular, they make it possible to achieve conditioning levels comparable to, or even superior to, those obtained with the products of the state of the art, and for substantially lower total surfactant concentrations (2 to 3 times). less important). It is thus possible to prepare care compositions without silicones having a level of performance equivalent to that of certain silicone masks. It has also been found that these compositions make it possible to obtain a particular sensory signature, especially on damp hair, in particular a very cohesive feel: one feels a deposit on the fiber, the formula texturizes the hair, it leads to a sensation to the touch of hair thicker and slippery.

In addition, they achieve good cosmetic performance with a favorable biodegradability profile. The combination of surfactants according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain a thickened formula which is easy to apply and which does not run, thus having good use properties.

Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a conditioner or a hair mask. In the present description, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more"; and the expression "between ... and ..." is equivalent to the phrase "from ... to ...", which implies that the bounds are included. (a) Quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic ammonium quaternary surfactants, especially of the dimethyl-di (acyloxyisopropyl) ammonium type, and corresponding to the following formula (I): CH 3 0 Wherein: R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent an unsaturated hydrocarbon radical comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms, and - X is a counter-group. -ion cosmetically acceptable. (I) Unsaturated radical means that the hydrocarbon radical comprises at least one carbon-carbon double bond (C = C) and / or at least one carbon-carbon triple bond. It can of course include several double and / or triple carbon-carbon bonds. Preferably, R1 and R2, which are identical or different, comprise from 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and especially 17 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R1 and R2, which are identical or different, comprise at least one double bond (C = C), and in particular a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds. Preferably, R1 and R2 are the same.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of surfactants of formula (I). In particular, the composition of the invention may comprise a mixture of surfactants of formula (I) in which R1 and R2, which are identical or different, comprise 15 to 19, in particular 17, carbon atoms, and a single double bond, two double bonds. bonds or three double bonds. Preferably, the acyl groups (-C (O) R 1 and -C (O) R 2) are derived from unsaturated carboxylic fatty acids which may comprise from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made of oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid. Said fatty acids may be of natural, plant or animal origin; in particular, they may be derived from vegetable oils, for example olein, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil or tall oil oil (pine oil).

Preferably, X is a halide type anion (chloride, iodide or bromide), phosphate, acetate, lactate, sulfate, alkyl (Ci-C4) sulfate including methylsulfate or ethylsulfate; (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonate or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate. The compounds of formula (I) can be prepared by esterification of alkanolamines, and especially methyldiisopropanolamine (MDIA), and unsaturated carboxylic fatty acids, for example in a molar ratio ranging from 1: 1.6 to 1: 2, the esterification being followed by quaternization. The proportion of unsaturated fraction in these natural fatty acids can be adjusted so as to have an iodine number of between 40 and 160, in particular between 80 and 150, which is the case for the vegetable oils mentioned above. The esterification can be carried out by any known means, especially in the presence of a catalyst such as methanesulfonic acid, preferably in an inert atmosphere (nitrogen for example), preferably at a temperature of 160-240 ° C. .

The quaternization can be carried out by any known means, for example in a solvent such as ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, preferably at a temperature of 60-90 ° C., by adding a quantity equimolar quaternizing agent, especially with stirring.

Quaternizing agents that may be mentioned include organic or inorganic quaternizing agents such as short-chain dialkyl sulphates or phosphates, in particular dimethyl sulphate and dimethyl phosphate, or short-chain halogenated hydrocarbons such as methyl chloride.

Such quaternary ammonium compounds are in particular described in US Pat. No. 6,665,375, which describes in particular a tall oil fatty acid ester (distribution of chain lengths of fatty acids: 1% C16, 2% C18, 37%). % C18: 1, 60% C18: 2 and 1% greater than C18) and MDIA, in a molar ratio MDIA / fatty acid equal to 1: 1.8, said ester being subsequently quaternized with dimethylsulfate. There may also be mentioned EP240727 which describes quaternary ammonium compounds and especially dimethyl-di (oleyloxyisopropyl) ammonium methosulphate.

The composition according to the invention comprises the surfactant (s) of formula (I) in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.75 to 4% by weight, or even from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (b) Additional cationic surfactants The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more additional cationic surfactants, different from the cationic surfactants of formula (I) above. Preferably, said additional cationic surfactant (s) are chosen from: fatty amines, primary, secondary or tertiary; the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (Ia): embedded image in which: the groups R 8 to R 11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising: from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of R8 to R11 having 40 of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the 11 aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and X- is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphonates or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates. The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, ( C12-C22) acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl.

Mention may in particular be made of halides, and especially chlorides, of tetraalkylammonium such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyl dimethylammonium and cetyltrimethylammonium chlorides. benzyldimethylstearylammonium. Mention may also be made of halides, and in particular chlorides, of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or of stearamidopropyldimethyl- (myristylacetate) -ammonium; especially the product marketed under the name CERAPHYC 70 by VAN DYK. the quaternary ammonium salts of the imidazoline of formula (IIa): wherein R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from the compounds of formula (IIa); tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents an atom of hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion, in particular chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (Ci-C4) sulphates, alkyl (Ci-C4) sulphonates or alkyl ( C1-C4) arylsulfonates Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups having from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes an atom of Such a product is, for example, marketed under the names REWOQUK. C (11a) W75 or W90 by the company Evonik. the di- or quaternary triammonium salts of formula (IIIa): wherein R16 denotes an alkyl group containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; - R17 denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a - (CH2) 3-N + (R16a) group (R17a) ) (R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, the same or different, denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and - X- is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyls sulfonates and alkyl (CiC4) aryl sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89) and the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75). quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of formula (IVa) as follows: ## STR2 ## wherein R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl, R23 is selected from R26-C (= O); ) -; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups R 27; and the hydrogen atom, R25 is selected from the group R28-C (= O) -; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29; and the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, 2+ 2X- (111a) r, s and t, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6, r1 and t1, identical or different, are 0 or 1, y is an integer from 1 to 10, and x, z, identical or different, are integers equal to 0 at 10, X- is an anion, with the proviso that r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 is R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly 2. The anion X - is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl (C1-C4) sulfate, a (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonate or a (C1-C4) alkyl arylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ester-function ammonium. The X- anion is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulphate or an ethyl sulphate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (IVa) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are 2, - R23 is selected from R26-C (= O) -; methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups; hydrogen; R25 is selected from R28-C (= O) -; the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from C13 alkyl and alkenyl groups; -C17, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Among the compounds of formula (IVa), there may be mentioned salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl dimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanamine, optionally oxyalkylenated with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin. or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulphate. methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUA-C WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, proposed by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from fatty amines, primary, secondary or tertiary; the surfactants of formula (Ia) or those of formula (IVa), and more preferably of those of formula (Ia): embedded image in which R 8 = R 9 = methyl, R 11 represents a group aliphatic, linear or branched, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and R10 = R9 or else R10 = R11, and X- is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, especially chloride, and alkyl (CiC4) sulphates, in particular methosulphate or ethosulphate, and especially halides, especially chlorides, or (C1-C4) alkyl sulphates, of tetraalkylammonium, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in wherein the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulphate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulphate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or methosulphate; rentiellement, the cationic surfactant is a salt or cetyltrimethylammonium béhé- nyltriméthylammonium. Preferably, the surfactant (s) of formula (I) and the additional cationic surfactant or surfactants are present in the cosmetic composition in a total amount of less than or equal to 10% by weight, for example ranging from 0.6% to 10% by weight. preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the additional cationic surfactant or surfactants in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 4% by weight. weight, or even 0.25 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (c) Aliphatic Fatty Alcohol The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more aliphatic fatty alcohols. The term "aliphatic fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising at least one OH hydroxyl group and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated), nor glycerolated. The aliphatic fatty alcohols according to the invention are preferably of R-OH structure with R denoting a linear or branched, saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, more preferably 10 to 30, even 12 to 24 atoms, more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Said aliphatic fatty alcohol may be liquid or solid; preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid aliphatic fatty alcohol.

The solid aliphatic fatty alcohols that can be used in the context of the present invention are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25 ° C., 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, that is, that they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25 ° C, 1 atm. The solid aliphatic fatty alcohols are preferably of R-OH structure with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, still more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. In particular, it is possible to mention, alone or as a mixture: lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-10 eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricylic alcohol (1-triacontanol). Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. The liquid aliphatic fatty alcohols, in particular those containing C10-C34 preferably have branched carbon chains and / or have one or more, preferably 1 to 3, unsaturations, especially C = C. They are preferably branched and / or unsaturated (C = C double bond), and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms. The liquid aliphatic fatty alcohols preferably have the R-OH structure in which R denotes a C12-C24 branched alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C12-C24 double bond C = C24), R 25 being substitutable by one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. Mention may in particular be made of oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl -1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-ketanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol. The composition according to the invention comprises the aliphatic fatty alcohol or alcohols, when they are present, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 9% by weight, or even from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (d) Additional solid fatty substances The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more solid fatty substances, different from the above solid fatty alcohols, and which may be chosen from solid fatty esters, ceramides and different waxes. ceramics, and mixtures thereof. The solid fatty esters which can be used are preferably selected from esters of C 9 -C 26 monocarboxylic acids and C 9 -C 26 alcohols. There may be mentioned octyldodecyl behenate, isoketyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate. It is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated C2-C26. These include diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate and dioctyl maleate. Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more solid fatty esters chosen from C 9 -C 26 alkyl palmitates, especially of myristyl, cetyl and stearyl, and C 9 -C 26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate. Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known per se; mention may be made in particular of ceramics of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification; they are molecules which can correspond to the following formula: ## STR1 ## in which: R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, alkyl group derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or an omega-hydroxyl group esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl) n group, a (galactosyl) m group or a sulphogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; - R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group may be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; or R3 denoting a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid. Preferentially, ceramides are used for which: - R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids, R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear C15 saturated group; or - R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C30 fatty acids, R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulphogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical; and preferably R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C22 fatty acids, R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group and R3 denotes a -CH = CH- (CH2) 12-CH3 group.

Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more ceramides chosen from 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-Nstearoylaminoctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N- [2-hydroxy-palmitoyl] -aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl aminoctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, Noleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydro-sphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-Dglucam cetyl cetyl N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide and bis- (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide; and their mixtures. A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than 40 ° C and up to 200 ° C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. In general, the size of the crystals of the wax is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse the light, conferring on the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence). For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3 (1999). The melting temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / min, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / min and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / min. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting temperature of the wax is the temperature value corresponding to the apex of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal origin, waxes of vegetable origin, mineral waxes and non-silicone synthetic waxes, as well as mixtures thereof. There may be mentioned beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Alfa wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter, cork fiber waxes, sugar cane waxes, wax olive, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, absolute waxes of flowers; paraffin waxes, petrolatum wax, lignite wax; microcrystalline waxes, ozokerites; insect waxes from China; rice bran wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis. In particular mention may be made of microcrystalline C 2 to C 60 waxes, such as Microwax HW; polyethylene wax PM 500 sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene. There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil, such as isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil trans, including that marketed by Desert Whale under the reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, the oil of hydrogenated sunflower, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di- (trimethyl-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate, especially that sold under the name of Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE. It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. As wax, it is also possible to use a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold, for example, under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by KOSTER KEUNEN. It is also possible to use micro-waxes, in particular carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes consisting of a mixture of Carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names MicroCare 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders; micro-waxes consisting of a mixture of Carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that sold under the name MicroCare 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names MicroPoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names MicroSlip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more waxes chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as essential flower wax blackcurrant sold by BERTIN (France); animal waxes such as bees waxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina) and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the additional solid fat (s), when present, in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, especially from 0.1 to 5% by weight. or from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (e) Polyols The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more polyols, different from the aliphatic fatty alcohols above. Preferably, they are liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25 ° C., 780 mmHg), and are soluble in water at a concentration greater than or equal to 5% by weight, under these same conditions. Preferably, the polyol (s) according to the invention are not polysaccharides.

The polyols which may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably of formula (A): ## STR2 ## in which: R ' 1, R'2, R'3, R'4 denote, independently of one another, a hydro- (A) gene atom, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical C1 - C6, - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and optionally from 1 to 9 oxygen atoms, but no hydroxyl group, and -m denotes 0 or 1. A first Preferred polyol group consists of polyols of formula (A) for which m = 0 such as 1,2,3-propanetriol (glycerin), propylene glycol (or 1,2-propanediol), pinacol (2,3 dimethyl 2,3-butanediol), 1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3-butanediol, octane-2-diol and sorbitol. A second group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of formula (A) in which m = 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3, R'4 denote, independently of one another, an atom of hydrogen or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, and A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and optionally from 1 to 9 oxygen atoms, in particular a radical -O-CH 2 CH 2 -; such as polyethylene glycols, especially those having from 4 to 9 ethylene oxide groups such as for example the products named PEG-6 or PEG-8 (CTFA name). A third group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of formula (A) in which m = 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3, R'4 denote, independently of one another, an atom of hydrogen, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a C1-C6 mono or polyhydroxyalkyl radical, and A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; such as 3-methyl-1,3,5-pentanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3 methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol) and hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2-yl); 4-pentanediol) and even more preferably hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol. Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more polyols chosen from glycerine, propylene glycol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the polyol (s), when they are present, in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 10% by weight, or even 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (f) Nonionic surfactants The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more nonionic surfactants. They may in particular be chosen from alcohols and alpha-diols comprising at least one fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, and the alkyl (Ci-20) phenols, these compounds being polyethylene thoxylated and / or polypropoxylated, the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide ranging from 1 to 100. Also include condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4; the fatty acid esters of ethoxylated sorbitan preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, the fatty acid esters of sucrose, the polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, preferably polyoxyethylenated esters having from 2 to 150 moles ethylene oxide including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N- (C6-24) alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C1-C14 alkyl) amine oxides or oxides of N- (C1-C14 acyl) -aminopropylmorpholine. Preferably, the fatty acid esters of the ethoxylated sorbitan, the polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, the polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters having preferably 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof, are used.

Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of the alkylpolyglycoside type, which will be preferred, and in particular those represented by the general formula: RiO- (R20) t- (G) v in which: R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical; comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene radical having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4; a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4. Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which: - R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical containing from 8 to at 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; the degree of polymerization, i.e., the value of y, ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2. The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactant is an alkylpolyglucoside surfactant. Particularly preferred are C8 / C16 alkyl polyglycosides 1,4, and especially decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides. Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

Preferably, C8 / C16 alkyl polyglycoside 1,4, especially in aqueous solution at 53%, such as those marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP, are used. Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the nonionic surfactant or surfactants, when they are present, in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight. or from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (g) Amino Silicone The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more amino silicones. In the present description, the term "amino-silicone" means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The weight average molecular weights of these amino silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25 ° C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are p styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 μl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF is injected. The detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry. There may be mentioned in particular: a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): ## STR2 ## in which x 'and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000; b) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (B): R'aG3_a-Si (OSiG2) ,, - (0SiGbR'2_b) mO-SiG3_a-RIa (B) in which: - G, identical or different, denote an atom hydrogen, or a phenyl, OH, C 1 -C 8 alkyl, for example methyl, or C 1 -C 8 alkoxy group, for example methoxy, a, the same or different, denote 0 or an integer of 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1, - m and n are such that the sum (m + n) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number of 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2,000, and in particular from 1 to 10; R ', identical or different, denote a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL, in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups: -NR "-QN (R ") 2 -N (R") 2 -N + (R ") 3 A- -NR" -Q-N + (R ") 3 A-, in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a divalent group of formula C, 112, -, linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable counterion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide, A first group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to the formula (C): (CH 3) 3 Si CH 3 SiO (CH 3) 3 (C) I 3 Si-Si Si CH 3 Cl (12) 3 NH (Cl-12) 2 NI-12 where m and n have the meanings given above in formula B.

A second group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones of formula (D): CH 3 CH 3 R 1 Si 0-Si 1 CH 3 CH 3 R 2 O-Si (CI-12) 3 NH (CI) 12) 2 NI-12 CH3 0 Si-R3 (D) CH3 where: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (m + n) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more especially from 100 to 200; n can denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; - R1, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxyl radical or C1-C4 alkoxy, at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical. Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. Preferably, the hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1, especially from 0.25: 1 to 0.35: 1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3: 1. Preferably, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000. A third group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones of formula (E): CH 3 CH 3 --CH 3 CH 3 R 1 Si 0-Si 0-Si 0 Si-R 2 (E) CH 3 CH 3 (Cl-12) 3 NH CH 3 (C, I-12) 2 NI-12 in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (m + n) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; n can denote a number from 0 to 999 and especially from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and m can denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - R1, R2, different, represent a hydroxyl radical or C1-C4 alkoxy, at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical. Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. Preferably, the hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 1: 0.8 to 1: 1.1, in particular from 1: 0.9 to 1: 1 and more particularly is equal to 1: 0.95. Preferably, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranges from 2,000 to 200,000, more preferably from 5,000 to 100,000, and more preferably from 10,000 to 50,000.

The commercial products corresponding to these silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E). A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is provided by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is proposed by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. When these amino silicones (D) or (E) are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any kind, but are preferably cationic or nonionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is generally from 3 to 500 nanometers. Preferably, especially as amino silicones of formula (E), microemulsions having an average particle size ranging from 5 to 60 nanometers (enclosed terminals) and more particularly from 10 to 50 nanometers (inclusive) are used. Thus, mention may be made of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) proposed under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker.

A fourth group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones of formula (F): ## STR2 ## In which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (m + n) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999; and especially 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

Preferably, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000, and even more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000. Silicone corresponding to this formula can be cited, in particular, as the silicone DC2-8299 CATIONIC EMULSION ' from Dow Corning.

A fifth group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones of formula (G): ## STR2 ## in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (m + n) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched. Preferably, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones is from 500 to 1,000,000, more preferably from 1,000 to 200,000. Silicone corresponding to this formula can be mentioned, for example, the silicone DC2-8566 Amino fluid ' from Dow Corning. c) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (H): R 6 -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -N + (R 5) 3 A- (R 5) 3 -Si-C Si- (R 5) 3 (H) Si -O In which: R5, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl radical; ; R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy radical connected to Si by an SiC bond; r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 5 8 - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50; - A- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, such as a halide, especially chloride or an organic acid salt, especially acetate. D) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): ## STR2 ## In which: R 7, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical or an alkenyl radical; C2-C18 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, especially a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy radical connected to Si by an SiC bond; - Rg, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical, a radical -R8- NHCOR7; r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 25 to 100; - A- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, such as a halide, especially chloride or an organic acid salt, especially acetate. e) the amino silicones of formula (J): ## STR5 ## wherein: R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, which are identical or different from one another; different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer varying from 1 at 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine value ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g. f) the polyoxyalkylenated multiblock amino silicones of (AB) n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group. Said silicones preferably consist of repeating units of the following general formulas: [- (SiMe20) xSiMe2 - R -N (R ") - R-O (C2H40) a (C3H60) b -RN (H) -R-] or [- (SiMe20) xSiMe2 - R -N (R ") - R '- O (C2H40) a (C3H60) b in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly from 10 to 100; b is an integer ranging from 0 to 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly ranging from 5 to 30; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more preferably from 10 to 5,000; - R "is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon divalent radical optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH (OH) CH 2 - radical, preferentially R denotes a -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH (OH) CH 2 -; identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical C2-C12, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, preferably R 'denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a butylene radical; linear or branched, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH (OH) CH2-, preferably R 'is -CH (CH3) -CH2-.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent from 50 to 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%. The level of amine is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol; more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight average molecular weight (Mw) is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000. Mention may in particular be made of the silicones sold under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A + by Momentive.

Preferably, the amino silicones that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from silicones of formula (B), and in particular from silicones of formulas (C), (D), (E), ( F) and (G), and most preferably among the silicones of formula (F). Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the amino silicone (s), when they are present, in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, especially from 0.2 to 4% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be anhydrous (less than 2% water, preferably 0% water, especially water added).

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also be aqueous; thus it may preferably comprise water and / or one or more organic solvents which may preferably be chosen from linear or branched C1-C6 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or tert-butanol. or n-butanol. Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises water at a content ranging from 50 to 99% by weight, in particular from 60 to 99% by weight, better still from 70 to 98% by weight, and still more preferably from 80 to 97% by weight. or from 85 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the cosmetic composition may comprise the organic solvent (s) at a level of from 0.05% to 50%, preferably from 0.5% to 30%, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, based on to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Preferably, the pH of said cosmetic composition is between 2.5 and 9.0, for example between 2.5 and 7.0, especially between 3.0 and 6.0, and in particular between 3.5 and 5.0. , 0. Said cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more usual cosmetic ingredients, especially chosen from vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; liquid fatty esters; anionic or amphoteric surfactants; anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic polymers; solar filters; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; fall arrest agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescing agents; hydroxy acids; the charges; silicones and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); the perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents; aldehydes, polymeric or non-polymeric thickeners, and especially associative polymers; conservatives; sequestering agents (EDTA and its salts); dyestuffs. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients of the composition, as well as their amounts, so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged. The composition according to the invention may be in any of the galaic forms conventionally used, and especially in the form of an alcoholic or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; a particular anhydrous gel, or any other cosmetic form. The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds particular application particularly interesting in the hair field, especially for the care, cleaning and / or conditioning of the hair. Preferably, said cosmetic composition is a hair composition, which may be in the form of a shampoo, a cream, a mousse (aerosol or not), a paste, a gel, an emulsion , a lotion, even a stick; after-shampoo; preferably in the form of milk, gel, cream or mask. Preferably, the hair composition is a shampoo or a conditioner. The cosmetic composition, in particular the capillary composition, may be rinsed or not rinsed after having been applied to the keratin materials, especially the hair. It is thus possible optionally to rinse for example with water after a possible exposure time. The subject of the invention is also a process for cosmetic treatment, in particular care, cleaning and / or conditioning of keratinous substances, in particular the hair, comprising the application to said materials of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. invention. Optionally, rinsing may be carried out with water after a possible exposure time, for example. The present invention is further illustrated in the following examples (MA = active material). EXAMPLE 1 The following hair compositions are prepared, comprising (') / 0 by weight): Ingredient AB DIOLEOYL CHLORIDE ISOPROPYL 2% 0.5 DIMONIUM BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE (80% 0.5% 0.5% in isopropanol ) (0.4% MA) (0.4% MA) Cetyl Alcohol 3% 1.5% Stearyl Alcohol 3% 1.5% Amino Silicone (Dow Corning Xiameter MEM-8299) 3% (1.7%) MA) Conservative, perfume qs qs Water Qs 100% Qsp 100% Hair compositions are obtained. The hair disentangles easily and is smooth to the touch (no asperities that catch the fingers).

EXAMPLE 2 The following hair care compositions are prepared, comprising (') / 0 by weight): Ingredient CDE DIOLEOYL CHLORIDE ISOPROPYL DIMONIUM 2% 2% 2% BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE (80% in isopropanol) 0, 5% 0.5% - (0.4% MA) (0.4% MA) Stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.5% Cetyl alcohol 3% 3% 3% Stearyl alcohol 3% 3% 3% Digluconate chlorhexidine - 0.2% 0.2% BHT - 0.5% - Preservative, perfume qs qs Qs Water Qs 100% Qs 100% Qs 100% Hair care compositions having good use qualities are obtained, especially a viscosity and a texture suitable for easy application. By way of illustration, the composition D has a viscosity of 73 UD M3 (measured at 25 ° C., 1 atm, with a Rheomat), that is to say a perfectly viscous viscosity. to that of the usual cream-type after-shampoos.

Example 3 1 / The following three comparative compositions are prepared (`) / 0 by weight): Ingredient Comp 1 Comp 2 Comp 3 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE (80% in isopropanol) 3% 4% 6.25% (2%) , 4% MA) (3.2% MA) (5% MA) cetylstearyl alcohol 6% 5% 7% CETYL ESTERS (014-018 esters) 1% 1% 1.5% Amino Silicone (Xiameter MEM- 8299 from Dow Corning) 1.2% 1.8% - (0.7% MA) (1% MA) Amino Silicone (Xiameter MEM-0949 from Dow Corning) - 5% (1.5% MA) Preservative, fragrance qs qs Water Qsp 100% Qsp 100% 2 / The compositions according to the invention A, B and C are compared with the comparative compositions above. The compositions are applied by half-heads to 6 volunteers having colored eyes after shampooing with a usual shampoo. 12 g of composition are applied per half-head. After rinsing, the treated hair is evaluated by experts in the wet state and in the dry state after drying with a hair dryer. 3/15 Comparison: Composition B / Comparative 1 On damp hair: the hair treated with the composition B according to the invention is disentangled easily, are smooth to the touch and flexible; levels of disentangling, smoothing and flexibility are judged to be equivalent to those obtained on hair treated with comparative composition 1 which contains substantially more conditioning agents. Comparison: Composition C / Comparative 2 On damp hair: the hair treated with the composition C according to the invention is easily disentangled, is smooth to the touch and flexible, and has a coated asphalt. The hair treated with Comparative Formula 2 is significantly less well disentangled and is significantly less flexible, less smooth and less coated, although Comparative Composition 2 contains significantly more conditioners.

Comparison: Composition A / Comparative 3 On damp hair: the hair treated with the composition A according to the invention is easily disentangled, are smooth to the touch and flexible; levels of disentangling, smoothing and flexibility are judged equivalent to those obtained on the hair treated with comparative composition 3 which contains significantly more conditioning agents. The compositions according to the invention thus make it possible to achieve conditioning levels comparable to, or even superior to, those obtained with the products of the state of the art, and this, for substantially lower total surfactant concentrations.

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising: - (i) one or more cationic ammonium quaternary surfactants having the formula (I): ## STR2 ## Wherein: R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent an unsaturated hydrocarbon radical comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms, and - X is a cosmetically acceptable counterion; and - (ii) one or more additional cationic surfactants, different from the surfactants of formula (I), 2. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the surfactants correspond to the formula (I) in which R1 and R2, which are identical or different, comprise from 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and in particular 17 atoms. of carbon ; and / or R1 and R2, which are identical or different, comprise at least one double bond (C = C), and in particular a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds. 3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the surfactant (s) of formula (I) in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.75 to 4% by weight, or even from 1 to at 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein said additional cationic surfactant or surfactants are chosen from: fatty amines, primary, secondary or tertiary; the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (Ia): embedded image in which: the groups R 8 to R 11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group; , having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of R8 to R11 comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms ; the aliphatic groups may contain heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and X- is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphonates or (C 1 -C 4) alkylaryl sulphonates. the quaternary ammonium salts of the imidazoline of formula (IIa): embedded image in which R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derivatives tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, X- is an anion, in particular chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphonates or alkyl (C1-C4) arylsulfonates - quaternary di- or triammonium salts of the formula (IIIa): R17 R19 R16-N- (Cl-12) N-R21 R18 R20 in which: R18 denotes an alkyl group comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, - R17 denotes hydride ogen, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH 2) 3 -N + (R 16a) (R 17a) (R 1sa), R 16a, R 17a, Risa, the same or different, denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 atoms of (11a) 2 + 2X- (111a) carbon, - R18, R19, R20 and R21, same or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphonates and (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate. . the quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of formula (IVa) as follows: ## STR2 ## (C 1 -C 2) (C 1 -C 2) wherein R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl groups, R23 is selected from the group R26-C (= ## STR2 ## 0) -; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups R 27; and the hydrogen atom, R25 is selected from the group R28-C (= O) -; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29; and the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6, r1 and t1, which are the same or different, are 0 or 1, y is an integer from 1 to 10, and x, z, the same or different, are integers from 0 to 10, 25 X- is an anion, with the proviso that r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 is R29. 30 5. Composition according to claim 4, wherein said additional cationic surfactant or surfactants are chosen from fatty amines, primary, secondary or tertiary; surfactants of formula (Ia) or those of formula (IVa), and more preferably of those of formula (Ia): embedded image in which R8 = R9 = methyl, R11 represents a group aliphatic, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and R10 = R9 or else R10 = R11, and X- is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, in particular chloride, and (C1-C4) alkyl sulphates, especially methosulphate or ethosulphate. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant (s) of formula (I) and the additional cationic surfactant (s) are present in a total amount of less than or equal to 10% by weight, for example ranging from 0, From 6 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the additional cationic surfactant or surfactants in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight, especially from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 4% by weight. % by weight, or even 0.25 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more aliphatic fatty alcohols, in particular of R-OH structure with R denoting a linear or branched saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, optionally substituted by a or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, more preferably from 10 to 30, even from 12 to 24, more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, especially from 1 to 9% by weight, or even from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more polyols preferably of formula (A): ## STR2 ## in which R'1, R'2, R'3 and R'4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical; C6 - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and optionally from 1 to 9 oxygen atoms, but no hydroxyl group, and - m denotes 0 or 1; Preferably present in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, especially 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 10% by weight, or even 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more nonionic surfactants; preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.1 to 10% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more amino silicones, preferably chosen from: a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): ## STR2 ## If 0 CH3 (H2) 3 NH (C1112) 2 NH2 Y 'wherein x' and y 'are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is from about 5,000 to about 500,000; b) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (B): R'aG3_a-Si (OSiG2) ,, - (0SiGbR'2_b) mO-SiG3_a-RIa (B) in which: - G, identical or different, denote an atom hydrogen, or a phenyl, OH, C 1 -C 8 alkyl, for example methyl, or C 1 -C 8 alkoxy group, for example methoxy, a, the same or different, denote 0 or an integer of 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1, - m and n are such that the sum (m + n) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number of 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2,000, and in particular from 1 to 10; R ', which are identical or different, denote a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL, in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups: -NR "-QN ( R ") 2 -N (R") 2 -N + (R ") 3 A -NR" -Q-N + (R ") 3 A-, wherein R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, ora monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a divalent group of formula C, 112, -, linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable counter-ion c) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (H): Re-CH2-CHOH-CH2-N + (R5) 3A- (R5) 3 -SiC Si -O-R5-r Si- R5 Si- (R5) 3 (H) in which: R5, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-alkenyl radical; C18, for example methyl; - R6 represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical, especially a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18 alkyleneoxy radical, for example C1-C8, linked to Si by an SiC bond; r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8 - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50 - A- is a cosmetically acceptable counter-ion, such as a halide, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate. d) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): ## STR5 ## Wherein R7, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical or a C2-C18 alkenyl radical; or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy radical connected to Si by an SiC bond; - Rg, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical, a radical -R8- NHCOR7; r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100 - A- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, such as a halide, especially a chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate. e) the amino silicones of formula (J): R3 Si R5 X R4 H2N - (Cm1-12,) - NH - (Cl-12) Si O (J) 3 in which: - R1, R2, R3 and R4 , identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is a variant integer from 1 to 5, and 15 - x is chosen such that the amine value ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g. f) polyoxyalkylenated multiblock amino silicones of (AB) n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group; Preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, especially from 0.2 to 4% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 25 12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising water at a content ranging from 50 to 99% by weight, especially from 60 to 99% by weight, better still from 70 to 98% by weight, more preferably from 80 to 99% by weight. to 97% by weight, or even 85 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 30 13. Cosmetic treatment process, in particular care, cleaning and / or conditioning of keratin materials, especially the hair, comprising the application on said materials of a cosmetic composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 12. optionally followed by rinsing, for example with water after a possible exposure time. 35