FR3113493A1 - PERFUMED COMPOSITION FOR MANUFACTURING AN OLFACTORY SUPPORT - Google Patents

Abstract

Perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprising a water/alcohol mixture and aromatic odorous molecules, the composition further comprising an extemporaneous microencapsulation agent chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilized polysaccharides or one of their mixtures. Such a composition can be used to manufacture cosmeto-textiles or dermato-textiles. Figure 1.

Description

PERFUMED COMPOSITION FOR MANUFACTURING AN OLFACTORY SUPPORT

The present invention relates to the general field of perfumed compositions and in particular perfumed compositions intended to be deposited on woven or non-woven supports for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, veterinary or even phytosanitary applications.

The invention relates to a perfume composition.

The invention also relates to a method for treating a woven or non-woven support with such a perfumed composition.

The invention finds applications in many industrial fields, and in particular for the manufacture of cosmeto-textiles or dermo-textiles.

The invention is particularly interesting since it makes it possible to increase the quantity of molecules and natural extracts applied to a support and to prolong the presence of these elements on this support.

PRIOR ART

It is known that after vaporization or misting on a woven or non-woven support, a perfumed composition, based on odorous molecules of the aromatic type, has a very short duration of presence (a few minutes to one or two hours maximum).

In order to prolong the presence of these olfactory molecules on the final support, it is possible to trap the perfumed composition in microcapsules then to deposit these microcapsules on a support.

For example, document CN 107724095 A describes a process for treating a tie by applying to this tie preformed microcapsules, the core of which comprises a hydro-alcoholic perfumed composition and the shell of which comprises proteins selected from silk proteins, wheat or soy. The microcapsules are formed before being deposited on the tie.

However, with such a process, the microcapsules can be damaged when they are stored and/or when they are deposited on the support. The olfactory molecules therefore diffuse more quickly and the duration of the olfactory effect is reduced.

An object of the present invention is to provide a perfumed composition intended to be deposited on a woven or non-woven support and whose molecules of interest can be released durably (typically several hours) once the composition has been deposited on said support.

For this, the present invention proposes a perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprising a water/alcohol mixture and aromatic odorous molecules, the composition further comprising an extemporaneous microencapsulation agent chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilized polysaccharides or one of their mixtures.

The invention differs fundamentally from the prior art by the addition to the perfumed composition of polypeptides, preferably of microbial origin, and/or lipophilized polysaccharides.

It has been observed that with such compounds, microcapsules formed extemporaneously (i.e. at the time of use) on the support. They are not formed prior to deposit as in the prior art.

Moreover, given their high solubility in the water/alcohol mixture, these molecules can be used in higher concentrations, which leads to the formation of a greater quantity of microcapsules.

The extemporaneous microencapsulation agents attach themselves to the fibers of the support at the time of deposition to form molecular cocoons. Thanks to microencapsulation, the fragrant aromatic molecules (scents and aromatic active ingredients) diffuse slowly and completely. They can persist for several hours on the medium (for example at least 6 hours, or even for 8 hours or more). A prolonged and substantial release effect of these molecules is thus obtained.

According to a first advantageous embodiment variant, the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent is palmitoyl hyaluronate.

According to another advantageous embodiment variant, the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent is surfactin.

Advantageously, the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent represents from 0.01% to 20% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the fragrant hydroalcoholic composition also comprises essential oils, preferably chosen from the essential oils of Mandarin, Petitgrain bigarade, lavender, lavandin, ylang-ylang, neroli, Roman chamomile, marjoram, lemon verbena and sandalwood.

Advantageously, the aromatic odorous molecules are chosen from the following compounds: gamma undecalactone, melonal, trans-2-hexenal, linalyl acetate, trans-2-decenal, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, hexen-1-ol, methyl ionone, 2- 6 nonadien-1-ol, geraniol, phenyl-ethyl alcohol, limonene, 2-6-dimethyl-2-heptanol, gamma decalactone, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone, beta ionone, hedione, helional, limonene, aldehydes C8 to C10, citral, linalyl acetate, isoamyl angelate, isobutyl angelate, farnesol, benzyl acetate, cis-3-hexenol, alpha-ionone, indole, lilial, and santalol.

Advantageously, the perfumed hydroalcoholic composition further comprises proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or peptides extracted from cereals, for example extracts from maize such as zein or extracts from wheat such as gliadins, or extracts from silk such as sericin .

Such a composition can be used to manufacture cosmeto-textiles or dermato-textiles.

The invention also relates to a process for treating a woven or nonwoven support comprising a step during which a perfumed hydroalcoholic composition as defined previously is projected in the form of droplets onto the woven or nonwoven support, whereby extemporaneously forms perfumed microcapsules on the woven or non-woven support.

Preferably, this step is carried out by spraying, vaporizing or misting.

These deposition techniques lead to a drying effect by atomization (“spray drying”). As alcohol evaporates faster than water due to the fineness of the droplets, there is condensation of the amphiphilic molecules around the lipophilic molecules creating extemporaneous microcapsules.

Advantageously, the woven or non-woven support is a pillowcase, preferably made of silk or cotton.

Advantageously, the perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprises from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of palmitoyl hyaluronate and/or surfactin.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge from the additional description which follows.

It goes without saying that this additional description is only given by way of illustration of the object of the invention and should in no way be interpreted as a limitation of this object.

The present invention will be better understood on reading the description of exemplary embodiments given purely for information and in no way limiting with reference to the appended drawing:

schematically represents a composition, according to the invention, sprayed onto a pillow to extemporaneously form microcapsules on the pillow.

DETAILED DISCUSSION OF PARTICULAR EMBODIMENTS

Although this is in no way limiting, the invention particularly finds applications in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, veterinary or phytosanitary field.

The invention is particularly interesting for the functionalization of textile support by microcapsules containing olfactory molecules with a view to giving the textile calming, relaxing and/or cosmetic (anti-wrinkle, for example) properties.

The process for treating the woven or nonwoven support comprises a step during which a perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprising a water/alcohol mixture, odorous molecules is deposited, preferably by spraying, vaporization or misting, on the woven or nonwoven support aromatics, and a microencapsulation agent chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilized polysaccharides or a mixture thereof, whereby perfumed microcapsules are formed extemporaneously on said woven or nonwoven support.

The microcapsules (also called microparticles or microscopic “pearls”) are formed in situ on the support when the fragrant hydroalcoholic composition is deposited thereon.

The formation of fine droplets, advantageously in the form of a mist or an aerosol, promotes the production of microcapsules of homogeneous size and distribution on the support.

The largest dimension of the microcapsules is of micrometric size (for example from 1 to 100 μm and preferably from 10 μm to 50 μm).

The woven or non-woven support can be a natural or synthetic textile. Preferably, it is a natural textile. For example, it can be natural silk, cotton or linen.

The textile can be a garment, a sheet or a pillowcase.

The solvent of the composition is a water and alcohol mixture. The proportion of alcohol ranges, for example, from 60% to 90% by volume. For example, the solvent comprises 70% to 80% by volume of alcohol.

The alcohol is, for example, ethanol and preferably denatured ethanol.

The microencapsulation agent is chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilized polysaccharides and one of their mixtures.

Lipopeptides are molecules made up of a lipid and a peptide. In particular, these molecules include a peptide ring linked to a fatty acid chain (lipid chain). The fatty acid chain can contain, for example, 13 to 15 carbon atoms. Lipopeptides are amphiphilic molecules. The peptide part is hydrophilic and the lipid part is lipophilic or hydrophobic.

According to a first variant embodiment, the lipopeptides are lipopeptides of microbial/bacterial origin (called microbial lipopeptides). These lipopeptides are produced by bacteria.

According to another embodiment variant, the lipopeptides can be synthesized in the laboratory. For example, the lipopeptides can be obtained from a glutamic acid decapeptide, certain carboxyl functions of which are esterified with a fatty alcohol of the cetyl alcohol type.

According to a preferred embodiment, surfactin will be chosen. Surfactin can be produced by the bacterium Bacillus Subtilis.

According to another variant embodiment, it is possible to choose the lipopeptides from iturins and fengycins

By lipophilized polysaccharides is meant polysaccharides having been subjected to a lipophilization step so as to covalently graft fatty chains (lipid chains) onto the hydroxyl functions of the polysaccharides. This grafting makes it possible to modify the hydrophilic/lipophilic balance of the polysaccharides and to give them an amphiphilic character.

Advantageously, the lipophilized polysaccharides can be good cutaneous sensors of urban pollutants of the hydrocarbon type and/or good natural cleansers/mattifiers for removing fatty substances from the skin, in particular excess sebum, and obtaining a matte effect.

The fatty acid chain can contain, for example, from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.

Lipophilized polysaccharides are polysaccharides covalently functionalized by fatty chains.

We will choose, for example, palmitoyl hyaluronate (also called hexadecanoyl hyaluronate).

Preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of palmitoyl hyaluronate and surfactin.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the microencapsulation agent represents from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight of the hydroalcoholic composition.

The composition may further contain additional encapsulants. The additional encapsulation agents can be proteins, protein hydrolysates or peptides alone or in mixture.

Proteins, protein hydrolysates or peptides can be of natural or synthetic origin. They can be enriched with hydrophobic amino acids such as Glycine, Alanine, Valine, Leucine and Isoleucine.

Preferably, the proteins, protein hydrolysates and peptides are extracted from silk (for example sericin), and/or extracted from cereals such as wheat (for example Gliadins) or like maize (for example Zein).

Aromatic odorous molecules are for example part of the following compounds and molecules: gamma undecalactone, melonal, trans-2-hexenal, linalyl acetate, trans-2-decenal, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, hexen-1-ol, methyl ionone, 2 -6 nonadien-1-ol, geraniol, phenyl-ethyl alcohol, limonene, 2-6-dimethyl-2-heptanol, gamma decalactone, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone, beta ionone, hedione, helional, limonene, C8 aldehydes at C10, citral, linalyl acetate, isoamyl angelate, isobutyl angelate, farnesol, benzyl acetate, cis-3-hexenol, alpha-ionone, indole, lilial, santalol.

The hydro-alcoholic perfumed composition may also contain essential oils known for their relaxing and calming properties such as extracts of: Mandarin, Petitgrain bigarade, lavender, lavandin, ylang-ylang, neroli, Roman chamomile, marjoram, lemon verbena, sandalwood .

Advantageously, the hydro-alcoholic perfumed composition is obtained by preparing a solution containing the water/alcohol mixture and the aromatic odor molecules, then by adding the encapsulating agent to said solution.

Once prepared, the perfumed composition is deposited on the support at the time of use. The composition is deposited on the support by a technique making it possible to project the composition in fine droplets onto the support, such as spraying, misting or atomization.

The perfumed composition can be deposited on the support, for example, using a spray, an atomizer or even an atomizer under gas pressure.

The vaporization/misting of such a composition on a pillowcase leads to the formation of microcapsules on the pillowcase (figure 1). It is thus possible to carry out a cosmetic treatment (hydration of the skin and/or hair for example) during the night and/or to provide a soothing and/or relaxing effect for better sleep.

Example illustrative and not limiting of an embodiment :

Example of a scented hydroalcoholic composition:
- Aromatic base 5% by mass.
-Palmitoyl hyaluronate (marketed by the company Contipro) 0.5% by weight.
-Surfactin (marketed by the company Sigma) 0.1% by weight.
-Water/Alcohol mixture (20/80 by volume) qsp 100%

Claims (10)

Perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprising a water/alcohol mixture and aromatic odor molecules,
characterized in that the composition further comprises an extemporaneous microencapsulation agent chosen from lipopeptides, lipophilized polysaccharides or one of their mixtures. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent is palmitoyl hyaluronate. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent is surfactin. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extemporaneous microencapsulation agent represents from 0.01% to 20% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fragrant hydroalcoholic composition also comprises essential oils, preferably chosen from the essential oils of Mandarin, Petitgrain bigarade, lavender, lavandin, ylang-ylang, neroli, chamomile romaine, shell marjoram, lemon verbena and sandalwood. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aromatic odor molecules are chosen from the following compounds: gamma undecalactone, melonal, trans-2-hexenal, linalyl acetate, trans-2-decenal, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal , hexen-1-ol, methyl ionone, 2-6 nonadien-1-ol, geraniol, phenyl-ethyl alcohol, limonene, 2-6-dimethyl-2-heptanol, gamma decalactone, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone, beta ionone, hedione, helional, limonene, C8-C10 aldehydes, citral, linalyl acetate, isoamyl angelate, isobutyl angelate, farnesol, benzyl acetate, cis-3-hexenol, alpha-ionone, indole, lilial, santalol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the perfumed hydroalcoholic composition additionally comprises proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or peptides extracted from cereals, for example extracts from maize such as zein or extracts from wheat such as gliadins, or silk extracts such as sericin. Process for treating a woven or nonwoven support comprising a step during which a perfumed hydroalcoholic composition as defined previously is projected in the form of droplets onto the woven or nonwoven support, whereby microcapsules are extemporaneously formed scented on the woven or non-woven backing. Method according to Claim 9, characterized in that the woven or non-woven support is a pillowcase, preferably made of silk or cotton. Method according to one of Claims 8 and 9, characterized in that the perfumed hydroalcoholic composition comprises from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of palmitoyl hyaluronate and/or surfactin.