FR3115208A1 - Transparent, sulphate-free cosmetic composition with high fragrance content - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a transparent cosmetic composition, without sulphates and with a high perfume content, comprising a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for cleaning and/or washing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials.

Description

Transparent, sulphate-free cosmetic composition with high fragrance content

The subject of the present invention is a transparent cosmetic composition, without sulphates and with a high perfume content, comprising a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for cleaning and/or washing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials.

Originally used in household cleaning products as detergents, sulfates are now invading cosmetic care, including shower gels and hair care.

Sulfates belong to the category of anionic surfactants. They have a negatively charged hydrophilic part and a relatively high HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) because they have a more marked hydrophilic tendency.

Very foaming, sulfates are used in shampoos and shower gels to emulsify and therefore eliminate grease and impurities. The most common are sodium laureth sulfate (SLS) and ammonium lauryl sulfate. It is estimated that more than 90% of shower gels and shampoos use SLS. In fact, sulfates make it possible to lather the products well, promote conservation and stabilize the formulas. They are also inexpensive ingredients.

However, sulphates are criticized for their irritant potential: they would make the skin dry, cause redness and itching and attack the scalp. They could also be the cause of scalp irritation and cause itching and/or flaking. They are also criticized for their impact on the environment.

There is thus a particularly strong consumer demand for sulfate-free cosmetic products and a need to move towards alternative surfactants, which are more respectful of the skin and the scalp as well as the environment.

Moreover, while performance criteria have long been the means of judging the quality of a cosmetic product, consumers now expect much more from a shower gel or shampoo than its simple cleansing or moisturizing functions. The product benefit shifts towards the fragrance, texture and sensoriality of the product. It is therefore necessary to be able to offer formulas with a high perfume content.

However, a high perfume content generally leads to cloudy formulas because the perfume emulsifies in the presence of surfactants. These formulas then have a whitish appearance and are therefore not very attractive to the consumer. Indeed, to display their outward sign of tolerance and safety, shower gels and shampoos now prefer to be transparent.

However, perfume is a mixture of hydrophobic compounds, so it is difficult to dissolve it in a hydrophilic foaming base. In addition, surfactants without sulfates are known to be complicated to implement in products in gel form. Indeed, and unlike sulphated surfactants which gel very well in the presence of salts and an amphoteric co-surfactant, sulphate-free surfactants react only slightly to salt and require a greater number of co-surfactants to create a formula under gel form. It is therefore not easy to find the right combination of surfactants that will bring the desired viscosity to the product while remaining transparent with a high perfume content.

This is also why there is currently no transparent product on the market without sulphates and with a high fragrance content. Formulas are either sulfate-free but non-transparent formulas or sulfated forms.

Thus, there is always a search for transparent cosmetic compositions without sulphate and with a high perfume content.

Summary

The Applicant has unexpectedly discovered a surfactant system, without sulphates, making it possible, in specific proportions, to obtain a stable, transparent cosmetic composition with a high perfume content.

A subject of the invention is thus, according to a first aspect , a transparent cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one perfume and at least 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside, characterized in that said surfactant system comprises:
- up to 65% by weight of decyl glucoside, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system,
- at least 35% by weight of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, and
- up to 15% by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, and in that said at least one perfume is present in a content of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The surfactant system according to the present invention allows the formulation of a sulfate-free foaming product with a high perfume content having advantageous physico-chemical and organoleptic characteristics. Indeed, the surfactant system according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a composition with a high perfume content, which is transparent and stable.

A subject of the invention is also, according to a second aspect, a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The invention also relates, according to a third aspect , to a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair, consisting in applying to the said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair, a cosmetic composition according to the invention, then optionally rinsing, in particular with water.

A subject of the invention is also, according to a fourth aspect, the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for cleaning and/or washing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, scalp and hair.

Finally, the subject of the invention, according to afifth aspect, a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside to obtain a transparent, sulfate-free, stable cosmetic composition with a high fragrance content.

Other characteristics, details and advantages will appear on reading the detailed description below, and on analyzing the appended drawings, in which:

Fig. 1

shows a ternary diagram of a sulphate-free shower gel with different proportions of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate (SMCT), cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) and decyl glucoside.

Fig. 2

compares the sensory properties of a state-of-the-art formulation comprising sulphates with a sulphate-free, transparent and high-fragrance formula according to the invention.

detailed description

Cosmetic composition

The subject of the invention, according to a first aspect, is a transparent cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one perfume and at least 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside, characterized in that said surfactant system comprises:
- up to 65% by weight of decyl glucoside, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system,
- at least 35% by weight of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, and
- up to 15% by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, and in that said at least one perfume is present in a content of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

M cosmetically acceptable environment

The expression “cosmetically acceptable” designates a medium which does not present deleterious side effects and in particular which does not produce redness, inflammation, heating, tightness or stinging unacceptable for a user of cosmetic products. The medium is thus compatible with the keratin materials of human beings.

Typically, the keratin materials will be the skin, the mucous membranes, the scalp, the hair, the hair system, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, and preferentially the skin, the scalp and the hair.

The surfactant system in the proportions according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to obtain a transparent and stable cosmetic composition, with a high perfume content.

Transparency

Advantageously, and while the composition comprises a high perfume content, the surfactant system according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a transparent composition.

The term "transparent composition" means a composition whose matrix allows light to pass while causing no or only slight deviations of the light rays.

The transparency of a composition can easily be assessed with the naked eye. Typically, for the visual assessment of transparency, text is placed behind a 3.5 cm thick sample containing the composition. If the text can be read, the composition is considered transparent.

Typically, the transparency will be assessed visually at D0, after 15 days (D15), after 1 month (1M), 2 months (2M), 3 months (3M), 4 months (4M), 5 months (5M) and 6 months (6M) on samples placed at 5°C, at 40 and 45°C after passing through the ovens, as well as at room temperature.

High fragrance content

The term "composition with a high perfume content" means a composition in which the perfume is present in a content of at least 2% by weight, preferably at least 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the perfume must not exceed 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the perfume is present in a content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition . Preferably, the content is 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

By “perfume” is meant any hydrophobic substance designating a pure substance or a mixture that is insoluble or very slightly soluble in water, by nature. A possible method to determine the hydrophobicity of substances is to measure their solubility in different solvents or the chromatographic column retention time (by HPLC high performance liquid chromatography) of said hydrophobic substance. The hydrophobic substances according to the invention are perfuming, i.e. they are odoriferous and can be used in perfumes.

By “odoriferous substance” is meant a substance detectable olfactorily by a subject and/or by olfactometry, according to principles known to those skilled in the art. An example of a method for detecting an odoriferous substance is described in document EP 0003088. Other techniques for detecting an odoriferous substance are applicable, such as the techniques of gas phase chromatography, mass spectroscopy or else infrared absorption analysis.

The term odoriferous substance is also understood to mean a substance which spreads an odor, preferably pleasant for at least 20% of people, in particular a perfume.

Preferably, the perfuming hydrophobic substance is a natural or synthetic perfuming hydrophobic substance, more preferably natural. More preferably, it is chosen from terpenes, essential oils and natural compounds having odoriferous properties (terpenoids), in particular chosen from aldehydes, esters, ketones, alcohols, phenols, alkenes and ethers.

The term "terpenes" denotes hydrocarbons whose basic element is isoprene, their crude formula comprising a number of carbons which is a multiple of 5, in particular terpenes containing in particular 10 or 15 carbon atoms, used in perfumery.

By "terpenoids" is meant derivatives of terpenes, for example alcohols, phenols, ketones, aldehydes, esters or ethers. Terpenes and terpenoids are contained in "essential oils", designating the concentrated liquid, very often fragrant, volatile, produced by plants.

Essential oils are most often extracted from the organs of the plant by hydrodistillation in particular, but the constituents of these oils are largely synthesized by industry.

The following natural fragrancing hydrophobic substances can in particular be used:
- terpenes: pinenes, camphenes, limonene, cadinene, carene, caryophyllene,
- alcohols: linalool, geraniol, menthol, citronellol,
- ketones: menthone, carvone, beta-ionone, thujone, camphor, cyclopentadecanone,
- aldehydes: citral, citrannal, citronellal, cinnamic aldehyde, lilial,
- esters: linalyl acetate, menthyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl succinate, phenols: thymol, carvacrol, eugenol, isoeugenol,
- ethers: anethole, eucalyptol, cineol, rose oxide,
- alkenes: limonene. Essential oils can be ylang-ylang, bergamot, eucalyptus, lavender, lavandin, lemongrass, patchouli, peppermint, pine, rose, coriander, Shiu, sage oils , geranium, palmarosa, LitseaCubeba, lemon, lemongrass, orange blossom, grapefruit, lime, mandarin, tangerine, orange, cajeput, camphor, rosemary, anise green, star anise, fennel, basil, tarragon, cloves, chilli, thyme, sassafras, wormwood, mugwort, cedar, hyssop, tagetes, rue, elemi, galbanum, juniper berries, cabreuva, guaiac wood, sandalwood, vetiver, ambrette, angelica, iris rhizome, carrot, celery, cumin , lovage, parsley, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, nutmeg, pepper, olibanum, myrrh, Peru balsam, styrax, buchu, chamomile or cistus (Jean Garnero , "Essential Oils", Engineering Techniques nier, Treatise on physico-chemical constants, K-345).

Surfactant system

The composition according to the present invention not having to comprise sulphated molecules, the surfactant system is advantageously composed, preferentially constituted, of milder surfactants such as:
- sodium methyl cocoyl taurate which is an anionic surfactant derived from amino acids;
- cocamidopropyl betaine which is an amphoteric surfactant;
- decyl glucoside which is a nonionic surfactant.

For purely illustrative purposes, it will be possible to use the sodium methyl cocoyl taurate sold under the trade name "LAURAL TSF" by the company NOF, the cocamidopropyl betaine sold under the trade name "TEGO® BETAIN P 50 C" by the company EVONIK INDUSTRIES, the decyl glucoside sold under the trade name "PLANTACARE® 2000 UP" by the company BASF.

It is the specific proportions of the surfactant system according to the invention which make it possible to obtain the transparency and the stability of the cosmetic composition and the integration of a high content of perfume.

In the context of the invention, the surfactant system comprises:
- up to 65% by weight of decyl glucoside, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system,
- at least 35% by weight of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system
- up to 15% by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system.

Preferably, the surfactant system comprises:
- 5 to 60% by weight, preferably 10 to 50% by weight of decyl glucoside, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system,
- 40 to 95% by weight, preferably 50 to 90% by weight of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, and
- 8 to 12% by weight, of cocamidopropyl betaine, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system.

Thickening agent

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises at least one thickening agent, for example chosen from guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride and glyceryl oleate & coco glucoside.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as thickening agent, guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride and glyceryl oleate & coco glucoside.

According to one embodiment, the guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride is present in a content ranging from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 0.7 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and the glyceryl oleate & coco glucoside is present in a content ranging from 1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 1.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For purely illustrative purposes, it will be possible to use the guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride sold under the trade name “JAGUAR® EXCEL” by the company SOLVAY, and the glyceryl oleate & coco-glucoside sold under the trade name “LAMESOFT® PO65 MB” by BASF.

These thickening agents make it possible to increase the viscosity of the product without altering the transparency of the composition with a high perfume content, nor its stability.

Composition in gel form
The compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of a gel, in order, for example, to allow their distribution either by pouring from a bottle, or by pressure from a flexible tube, or by pressure exerted on the pump of a pump bottle. The gel is generally diluted with water at the time of application to the skin, which allows the formation of a foam during the massage or the friction of the composition with the keratin materials such as the skin, the leather scalp or hair.

The term “gel”, within the meaning of the present application, means a composition whose viscosity is at least 280 cP, preferably at least 600 cP, and more preferably at least 900 cP at room temperature. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of between 900 and 3000 cP at room temperature.

The viscosity can be measured by any viscometer and by any method known to those skilled in the art.

Typically, the viscosity of the composition can be measured by any analogue Brookfield viscometer. By way of illustration, the viscosity was measured at ambient temperature, with a Brookfield LVT mobile 2 viscometer at speed 6 for 1 minute.

The viscosity measurement is carried out on the sample remaining at room temperature.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous gel.

Aqueous phase
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. The water used can be sterile demineralised water and/or floral water and/or natural thermal or mineral water.

Conditioners
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises a conditioner.

Typically, the conditioner will be selected from Hydroxypropyl Guar (and) Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-10 and Panthenol.

According to one embodiment, the conditioner is hydroxypropyl guar (and) hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or panthenol.

For purely illustrative purposes, it is possible to use hydroxypropyl Guar (and) hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, sold under the trade name “Jaguar®C162” by the company SOLVAY®, polyquaternium-10 sold under the trade name “UCARE ™ Polymer JR-400” by Dow® and panthenol sold under the trade name “PANTHENOL 75W” by BASF.

The composition according to the invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as for example preservatives such as sodium benzoate and chlorphenesin, sequestrants such as phytic acid & sodium hydroxide & sodium citrate, solubilizers such as PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, pH regulators such as citric acid and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition of the invention may further comprise one or more humectants, including, but not limited to,
- polyols, and in particular glycerol, propylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, sorbito- glycosaminoglycans such as 'hyaluronic acid,
- sugars such as fructose, glucose, mannose, xylose,
- the saccharide isomerate from PENTAPHARM under the trade name Pentavitin®
- amino acids such as glycine, arginine, histidine, alanine, threonine, - lysine, glutamic acid, taurine, proline, serine and their derivatives,
- pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) and its salts, urea and its derivatives, ectoin, glucosamine, creatine, choline, betaine.
When present, the humectant(s) may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.5% to about 7% by weight.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a pH of between 4.5 and 6.

Galenic
The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be in a form chosen from a shower gel, a cleansing gel for the skin of the face, a make-up removing gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, a washing gel for the hands, a bubble bath.

stabilizer ity
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is stable.

The term “stable composition” means a composition which retains its organoleptic and physico-chemical properties over time, in particular its transparency and preferably also its pH.

Stability is measured for 6 months at 5°C, 40°C, 45°C after passing through the ovens and at room temperature.

Transparency will be assessed by the visual assessment method previously described.

For the measurement of the stability, in addition to the transparency, the tint can also be evaluated. Typically, if bleaching occurs, the product will be judged unstable. The yellowing is acceptable to it because it is induced by the high perfume content of the composition.

For the composition to be considered stable, the pH should preferably not vary by more than 0.3 pH units.

The pH can be measured by any means known to those skilled in the art, typically with a pH meter.

The pH is also measured on the sample remaining at room temperature.

The stability of the perfume is evaluated by sensory perception of each sample, the sample placed at 5°C being considered as a control sample because it is less affected by the aging of the perfume.

The perfume is considered stable if the notes of the perfume at room temperature, at 40°C and at 45°C are similar to those of the sample at 5°C, it being understood that a slight deviation is accepted if the fragrance remains recognizable.

Also, will be considered as stable, a composition:
- transparent according to the visual evaluation method and showing no bleaching;
- preferably whose pH does not vary by more than ±0.3 pH units compared to that measured on D0,
- preferably, having perfume notes similar to those of the control sample by sensory perception.

Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are stable after passages in the oven for 6 months, 5° C., 40° C., 45° C. and at room temperature.

Preparation process
A subject of the present invention is also a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition as described above comprising:
- the addition in water, with stirring and until the formation of a gel, of a mixture comprising at least one thickener and at least one water-soluble additive,
- optionally, adding at least one preservative and at least one sequestrant;
- the addition of the surfactant system according to the invention and of at least one thickener;
- Heating the gel thus obtained;
- adding, hot and with stirring, a mixture comprising at least one solubilizer and at least one fragrance;
- optionally, adjustment of the pH;
- optionally, the addition of QSP water.

Process for the treatment of keratin materials
The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair, consisting in applying to the said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair, a composition according to the present invention, then optionally rinsing, in particular with water.

The term “cosmetic treatment” means the care and/or the washing and/or the cleaning and/or the make-up removal of keratin materials.

The compositions according to the invention are applied to wet hair or skin and a foam generated by massage or friction with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination of the various dirt initially present on the hair, the scalp or the skin.

Cosmetic use
A subject of the present invention is also the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for cleaning and/or washing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair.

Use of the surfactant system
A subject of the present invention is also the use of a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside for obtaining a transparent, stable cosmetic composition with a high perfume content.

Preferably, the surfactant system comprises
- up to 65% by weight of decyl glucoside, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system,
- at least 35% by weight of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, and
- up to 15% by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system.

The surfactant system, in these proportions, advantageously makes it possible to obtain a transparent, stable cosmetic composition with a high perfume content.

Examples

In the examples that follow, the following methods were used.

Ternary diagram:
The ternary diagram makes it possible to identify the areas where the combination of surfactants makes it possible to obtain a transparent, stable cosmetic composition with a high perfume content.

Based on the percentage of active ingredient of each of the ingredients, it is possible to generate a ternary diagram. The ternary diagram includes three areas:
- The white area corresponds to the combinations of surfactants making it possible to obtain transparent, stable compositions with a high perfume content according to the invention,
- The light gray zone where the product becomes slightly cloudy at basic pH but whitens with the drop in pH, and
- The dark gray area where the compositions are more cloudy (emulsion formation).

Parameters measured
The different parameters were measured on samples at room temperature, and at 5°C, 40°C, 45°C after drying in the oven, for 6 months, on D0, after 15 days (D15), after 1 month (1M ), 2 months (2M), 3 months (3M), 4 months (4M), 5 months (5M) and 6 months (6M).

Transparency was assessed by the previously described visual assessment method. The tint of the composition sample was also evaluated.

The pH is also measured on the sample remaining at room temperature using a pH meter.

The stability of the perfume is evaluated by sensory perception of each sample by comparison with the control sample.

Sensory test
A sensory test was carried out in order to compare the quality of the foam obtained by the formula without sulfates and with a high perfume content according to the present invention with respect to the formula containing sulfates. The evaluation criteria were:
- the rate of foam formation;
- the amount of foam formed;
- the aeration of the foam;
- the intensity of the perfume;
- the ease of rinsing and/or the persistence of a residual film.

This test was carried out on an experienced panel of 15 judges in standardized premises of the sensory analysis laboratory with controlled temperature and humidity.

The area of application was the arm.

Example 1: Emulsifying system
The transparency and stability of the formulations listed below were studied, according to the methods previously described.

The amounts are given in% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In each of the formulations (1 to 14) were introduced, in addition to the surfactant system (sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside):
- 4% by weight of perfume;
- 4% by weight of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (solubilizer);
- 1.00% by weight of glyceryl oleate & coco-glucoside (viscosifier);
- 0.2325% by weight of guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride (viscosity);
- QSP water.

Formulations 1, 6, 10 and 14 of Table 1 comprise the 3 emulsifiers in the amounts according to the invention and make it possible to obtain transparent and stable compositions.

Ingredient (trade name) Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate Cocamidopropyl betaine Decyl glucoside Transparency at D0 Stability (6 months) Test number 1 15,198 1.75 2.09 YES OK 6 11.4 1.75 6.27 YES OK 10 7,599 1.75 10.45 YES OK 14 7,599 2.8 9,196 YES OK

The results show that the surfactant system composed of the three emulsifiers in the proportions according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a transparent composition, with a high perfume content and without sulfates, unlike the formulations described below in Table 2.

Test number sodium methyl cocoyl taurate cocamidopropyl betaine decyl glucoside Transparency Stability 2 11.4 5.25 2.09 Transparent for pH = 7.12
Trouble for pH=5.87 NO 3 7,599 8.75 2.09 NO emulsion on the top of the essay NO - emulsion formation 4 3,798 12.25 2.09 5 1,899 12.25 4.18 7 7,599 1.75 10.45 8 3,798 8.75 8.36 9 1,899 8.75 8.36 11 3,798 5.25 10.45 12 3,798 5.25 12.54 13 3,798 1.75 14.63 transparent at basic pH (pH=9), whitens at acidic pH (5.5) NO

Thus, the emulsifying system, composed of the three surfactants, in the proportions according to the invention, makes it possible to obtain transparent products, without sulphate and with a high perfume content.

Example 2: Visualization on ternary diagram
Indeed, the white area of the corresponds to the transparent products in accordance with the invention (Points 1, 6, 10, 14 are in the area we are looking for

Example 3 : Process for obtaining and transparent cosmetic composition with a high perfume content according to the invention

The process described below was implemented to obtain a transparent cosmetic composition, in the form of a gel, with a high perfume content, as described in Table 3:
- citric acid was introduced into water with stirring;
- jaguar® excel was mixed with glycerin. The mixture was then added to water with vigorous stirring until a gel formed;
- addition of sodium benzoate when the jaguar® excel forms a transparent gel;
- addition of the surfactant system according to the invention: plantacare 2000 UP, tego betaine P50C and laural TSF, as well as lamesoft PO65, and heating to 40° C.;
- premix the cremophor RH 60 with the perfume at 40°C and shake;
- adjust the pH and do the QSP.

Ingredients INCI name (trade name) Content (% by weight of active ingredient) Water Aqua QSP Humectants Glycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, hexanediol, propanediol,… 1-10 Conservatives Sodium benzoate, chlorphenesin… 1-5¨ Sequestrants Phytic acid & sodium hydroxide & sodium citrate 0.08 pH adjusters Citric acid 0.5-1 Scent 3-5 surfactant Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate (LAURAL TSF) 7-15 surfactant Cocamidopropyl betaine (TEGO BETAIN P 50 C) 1.5-3 Surfactant Decyl glucoside (PLANTACARE 2000 UP) 2-10.5 viscose Glyceryl oleate & coco-glucoside (LAMESOFT PO65 MB) 2-3 Solubilizer PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (CREMOPHOR RH 60) 0-3 viscose Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (JAGUAR EXCEL) 0.2-0.7

Example 4 : sensory test

The transparent composition without sulphates according to the invention and as described in Table 5 below was compared with a formula containing sulphates and as described in Table 6.

Ingredients INCI name (trade name) Content (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) Water Aqua 70.2 Humectant Glycerine 2.14 pH adjuster Citric acid 0.6 Scent 4 Conservative Sodium benzoate 0.45 surfactant Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate (LAURAL TSF) 9 surfactant Cocamidopropyl betaine (TEGO BETAIN P 50 C) 2.1 Surfactant Decyl glucoside (PLANTACARE 2000 UP) 6.05 viscose Glyceryl oleate & coco-glucoside (LAMESOFT PO65 MB) 2 Solubilizer PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (CREMOPHOR RH 60) 3 viscose Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (JAGUAR EXCEL) 0.7 Conditioner D-PANTHENOL 75W (Panthenol) 1

Ingredients INCI name (trade name) Content (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) Water Aqua 64.98 Humectant glycols 4 pH adjuster Citric acid 0.6 Scent 4 Conservative Sodium benzoate 0.44 Surfactant sodium laureth sulphate (TEXAPON N70) 17.48 Surfactant Cocamidopropyl betaine (TEGO BETAIN P 50 C) 2.1 Solubilizer PPG-26-BUTETH-26 & PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (LRI SOLUBILIZER) 4 Conditioner POLYQUATERNIUM-10 0.5

LAURAL TSF is composed as follows: aqua (water) & sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.

TEXAPON N70 is composed as follows: sodium laureth sulfate & aqua

TEGO BETAIN P 50 C is composed as follows: aqua (water) & cocamidopropyl betaine & sodium chloride & glycerin & coconut acid.

PLANTACARE 2000 UP is composed as follows: decyl glucoside & aqua (water).

LAMESOFT PO65 MB is composed as follows: glyceryl oleate & coco-glucoside & aqua (water) & citric acid & glyceryl stearate & lecithin & tocopherol & ascorbyl palmitate.

JAGUAR EXCEL is composed as follows: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride & aqua (water);

The sulphate-free formula has a slightly less airy lather and a slightly lower fragrance intensity compared to the shower gel containing sulphates. However, the two shower gels are not different on the other criteria and particularly, on the speed of foam formation, on the quantity of foam formed, on the ease of rinsing and the residual film, and those, as it comes out of the .

Thus, the surfactant system according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a transparent cosmetic composition without sulphate, with a high perfume content and stable.

Claims (12)

Transparent cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one perfume and at least 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside, characterized in that said surfactant system comprises:
- up to 65% by weight of decyl glucoside, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system,
- at least 35% by weight of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, and
- up to 15% by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, and in that said at least one perfume is present in a content of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the said perfume is present in a content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the said surfactant system comprises:
- 5 to 60% by weight, preferably 10 to 50% by weight of decyl glucoside, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system,
- 40 to 95% by weight, preferably 50 to 90% by weight of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, and
- 8 to 12% by weight, of cocamidopropyl betaine, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it also comprises at least one thickening agent chosen from guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride and glyceryl oleate & coco glucoside. Composition according to Claims 3 or 4, characterized in that the guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride is present in a content ranging from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and the glyceryl oleate & coco glucoside is present in a content ranging from 1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 1.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a gel, preferably in the form of an aqueous gel. Composition according to Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises a conditioner, chosen from hydroxypropyl Guar (and) hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, polyquaternium-10 and panthenol. Composition according to Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the composition has a form chosen from a shower gel, a cleansing gel for the skin of the face, a make-up remover gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, a washing gel for the , a bubble bath. Process for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair, consisting in applying to the said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair, a composition according to claims 1 to 8 then optionally rinsing, in particular with water. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to Claims 1 to 8 for cleaning and/or washing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair. Use of a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside to obtain a transparent, sulfate-free, stable cosmetic composition with a high fragrance content. Use according to claim 13, characterized in that the surfactant system comprises
- up to 65% by weight of decyl glucoside, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system,
- at least 35% by weight of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, and
- up to 15% by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system.