WO2022084612A1

WO2022084612A1 - Transparent, sulfate-free cosmetic composition having a high fragrance content

Info

Publication number: WO2022084612A1
Application number: PCT/FR2021/051809
Authority: WO
Inventors: Tania THÉODOROU
Original assignee: Chanel Parfums Beaute
Priority date: 2020-10-19
Filing date: 2021-10-18
Publication date: 2022-04-28
Also published as: FR3115208B1; FR3115208A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a transparent, sulfate-free cosmetic composition which has a high fragrance content and comprises a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for cleansing and/or washing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials.

Description

Title: Transparent, sulphate-free cosmetic composition with high fragrance content

Technical area

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a transparent cosmetic composition, without sulphates and with a high perfume content, comprising a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for cleaning and/or washing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials.

Prior technique

[0002] Originally used in household cleaning products as detergents, sulphates are now invading cosmetic care, in particular shower gels and hair care.

[0003]Sulfates belong to the category of anionic surfactants. They have a negatively charged hydrophilic part and a relatively high HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) because they have a more marked hydrophilic tendency.

[0004] Very foaming, sulphates are used in shampoos and shower gels to emulsify and therefore eliminate fat and impurities. The most common are sodium laureth sulfate (SLS) and ammonium lauryl sulfate. It is estimated that more than 90% of shower gels and shampoos use SLS. In fact, sulfates make it possible to lather the products well, promote conservation and stabilize the formulas. They are also inexpensive ingredients.

[0005] However, sulphates are criticized for their irritant potential: they make the skin dry, cause redness and itching and attack the scalp. They could also be the source of scalp irritation and cause itching and/or flaking. They are also criticized for their impact on the environment. [0006]There is thus a particularly strong demand from consumers for cosmetic products free of sulphates and a need to move towards alternative surfactants, which are more respectful of the skin and the scalp as well as of the environment.

[0007] Moreover, while performance criteria have long been the means of judging the quality of a cosmetic product, consumers now expect much more from a shower gel or a shampoo than its simple cleansing or moisturizing. The product benefit shifts towards the fragrance, texture and sensoriality of the product. It is therefore necessary to be able to offer formulas with a high perfume content.

[0008] However, a high perfume content generally leads to cloudiness of the formulas because the perfume emulsifies in the presence of surfactants. These formulas then have a whitish appearance and are therefore not very attractive to the consumer. Indeed, to display their outward sign of tolerance and safety, shower gels and shampoos now prefer to be transparent.

[0009] However, the perfume is a mixture of hydrophobic compounds, so it is difficult to dissolve it in a hydrophilic foaming base. In addition, sulfate-free surfactants are known to be complicated to implement in products in gel form. Indeed, and unlike sulphated surfactants which gel very well in the presence of salts and an amphoteric co-surfactant, sulphate-free surfactants react only slightly to salt and require a greater number of co-surfactants to create a formula under gel form. It is therefore not easy to find the right combination of surfactants that will bring the desired viscosity to the product while remaining transparent with a high perfume content.

[0010] This is also why there is currently no transparent product on the market without sulphates and with a high perfume content. Formulas are either sulfate-free but non-transparent formulas or sulfated forms.

[001 1] Thus, there is always a search for transparent cosmetic compositions without sulphate and with a high perfume content. Summary

[0012] The Applicant has unexpectedly discovered a surfactant system, without sulphates, making it possible, in specific proportions, to obtain a stable, transparent cosmetic composition with a high perfume content.

[0013] A subject of the invention is thus, according to a first aspect, a transparent cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium,

- at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a perfume and

- 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a surfactant system comprising:

• 5 to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, of decyl glucoside

• 35% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate and

• 5 to 20% by weight, of cocamidopropyl betaine, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system.

The surfactant system according to the present invention allows the formulation of a sulfate-free foaming product with a high perfume content having advantageous physico-chemical and organoleptic characteristics. Indeed, the surfactant system according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a composition with a high perfume content, that is to say comprising at least 2% by weight of perfume, transparent and stable.

The invention also relates, according to a second aspect, to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0016] A subject of the invention is also, according to a third aspect, a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair, consisting in applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair, a cosmetic composition according to the invention, then optionally rinsing, in particular with water.

[0017] A subject of the invention is also, according to a fourth aspect, the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for cleaning and/or washing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular skin, scalp and hair.

Finally, the invention relates, according to a fifth aspect, to a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside for obtaining a transparent cosmetic composition, free of sulfates, stable comprising at least 2% by weight of perfume.

Brief description of the drawings

[0019] Other characteristics, details and advantages will appear on reading the detailed description below, and on analyzing the appended drawings, in which:

Fig. 1

[0020] [Fig. 1] shows a ternary diagram of a sulphate-free shower gel with different proportions of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate (SMCT), cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) and decyl glucoside.

Fig. 2

[0021] [Fig. 2] compares the sensory properties of a state-of-the-art formulation comprising sulphates with a sulphate-free, transparent and high-fragrance formula according to the invention.

detailed description

[0022] Cosmetic composition

The invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a transparent cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one perfume and at least 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a surfactant system comprising: • 5 to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system, of decyl glucoside

[0024] 5 to 20% by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, relative to the total weight of the surfactant system.

[0025] Cosmetically acceptable medium

[0026] The expression "cosmetically acceptable" designates a medium which does not present any deleterious side effects and in particular which does not produce redness, inflammation, heating, tightness or tingling which is unacceptable for a user of cosmetic products. The medium is thus compatible with the keratin materials of human beings.

[0027] Typically, the keratin materials will be the skin, the mucous membranes, the scalp, the hair, the hair system, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, and preferentially the skin, the scalp and the hair.

The surfactant system in the proportions according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to obtain a transparent and stable cosmetic composition, with a high perfume content.

[0029] Transparency

Advantageously, and while the composition comprises a high perfume content (at least 2% by weight), the surfactant system according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a transparent composition.

[0031] The term "transparent composition" means a composition in which the matrix allows light to pass while causing no or only slight deviations of the light rays.

[0032] The transparency of a composition can easily be assessed with the naked eye. Typically, for the visual assessment of transparency, text is placed behind a 3.5 cm thick sample containing the composition. If the text can be read, the composition is considered transparent. [0033] Typically, the transparency will be assessed visually on D0, after 15 days (D15), after 1 month (1 M), 2 months (2 M), 3 months (3 M), 4 months (4 M), 5 months (5 M ) and 6 months (6M) on samples placed at 5°C, at 40 and 45°C after passing through the ovens, as well as at room temperature.

[0034] High fragrance content

[0035] The term “composition with a high perfume content” is understood to mean a composition in which the perfume is present in a content of at least 2% by weight, preferentially, of at least 3% by weight, more preferentially of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the perfume must not exceed 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the perfume is present in a content ranging from 2 to 10% by weight, preferably from 3 to 6% by weight, more preferably 4 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight. of composition. Preferably, the content is 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "perfume" means any substance or a mixture of odoriferous substances (s) insoluble (s) in water, and therefore considered to be hydrophobic in nature. A possible method to determine the hydrophobicity of substances is to measure their solubility in different solvents or the chromatographic column retention time (by HPLC high performance liquid chromatography) of said hydrophobic substance.

[0039] By “odoriferous substance” is meant a substance that can be detected olfactorily by a subject and/or by olfactometry, according to principles known to those skilled in the art. An example of a method for detecting an odoriferous substance is described in document EP 0003088. Other techniques for detecting an odoriferous substance are applicable, such as the techniques of gas phase chromatography, mass spectroscopy or else infrared absorption analysis. [0040] The term odoriferous substance is also understood to mean a substance which spreads an odor, preferably pleasant for at least 20% of people, in particular a perfume.

[0041] Preferably, the water-insoluble fragrancing substance is a natural or synthetic, more preferably natural, fragrancing hydrophobic substance. More preferably, it is chosen from terpenes, essential oils and natural compounds having odoriferous properties (terpenoids), in particular chosen from aldehydes, esters, ketones, alcohols, phenols, alkenes and ethers.

[0042] The term "terpenes" denotes hydrocarbons whose base element is isoprene, their crude formula comprising a number of carbons that is a multiple of 5, in particular terpenes containing in particular 10 or 15 carbon atoms, used in perfumery.

By "terpenoids" is meant derivatives of terpenes, for example alcohols, phenols, ketones, aldehydes, esters or ethers. Terpenes and terpenoids are contained in "essential oils", designating the concentrated liquid, very often fragrant, volatile, produced by plants.

[0044] Essential oils are most often extracted from the organs of the plant by hydrodistillation in particular, but the constituents of these oils are widely synthesized by industry.

The following natural fragrancing hydrophobic substances can in particular be used:

- terpenes: pinenes, camphenes, limonene, cadinene, carene, caryophyllene,

- alcohols: linalool, geraniol, menthol, citronellol, ketones: menthone, carvone, beta-ionone, thujone, camphor, cyclopentadecanone,

- aldehydes: citral, citrannal, citronellal, cinnamic aldehyde, lilial,

- esters: linalyl acetate, menthyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl succinate, phenols: thymol, carvacrol, eugenol, isoeugenol,

- ethers: anethole, eucalyptol, cineol, rose oxide,

- alkenes: limonene. Essential oils can be ylang-ylang oils, bergamot, eucalyptus, lavender, lavandin, lemongrass, patchouli, peppermint, pine, rose, coriander, Shiu, sage, geranium, palmarosa, LitseaCubeba, lemon, lemongrass, orange blossom, grapefruit, lime, tangerine, tangerine, orange, cajeput, camphor, rosemary, green anise, star anise, fennel, basil, tarragon, clove, chilli, thyme, sassafras, wormwood, artemisia, cedar, hyssop, tagetes, rue, elemi, galbanum, juniper berries, cabreuva, guaiac wood, sandalwood, vetiver, ambrette, angelica, iris rhizome, carrot, celery, cumin, lovage, parsley, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, nutmeg, pepper, olibanum, myrrh, Peruvian balsam, styrax, buchu, chamomile or cistus (Jean Garnero, "Essential oils", Engineering techniques, Treaty physicochemical constants, K-345).

[0046] Surfactant system

The composition according to the present invention comprises a surfactant system comprising, preferably consisting of:

- sodium methyl cocoyl taurate which is an anionic surfactant derived from amino acids;

- cocamidopropyl betaine which is an amphoteric surfactant;

- decyl glucoside which is a nonionic surfactant.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “surfactant system” includes all of the surfactants used in the composition according to the invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant system used in the context of the invention consists exclusively of:

- cocamidopropyl betaine which is an amphoteric surfactant;

- decyl glucoside which is a nonionic surfactant.

In the context of the invention, the surfactant system is present, in the composition, in a content ranging from 15 to 25% by weight, preferably from 17 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [0051] For purely illustrative purposes, it will be possible to use sodium methyl cocoyl taurate sold under the trade name "LAURAL TSF" by the company NOF, cocamidopropyl betaine sold under the trade name "TEGO® BETAIN P 50 C" by the company EVONIK INDUSTRIES, the decyl glucoside sold under the trade name “PLANTACARE® 2000 UP” by the company BASF.

It is the specific proportions of the surfactant system according to the invention which make it possible to obtain the transparency and the stability of the cosmetic composition and the integration of a high content of perfume.

In the context of the invention, the surfactant system comprises, preferably consists of:

Preferably, the surfactant system comprises, preferably consists of:

• 10 to 60% by weight, preferably 11 to 55% by weight of decyl glucoside,

• 36 to 83% by weight, preferably 38 to 80% by weight of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, and

• 8 to 15% by weight, preferably 8.5 to 14.5% by weight, of cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0055] Thickening agent

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one thickening agent, for example chosen from guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride and glyceryl oleate & coco glucoside. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as thickening agent, guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride and glyceryl oleate & coco glucoside.

According to one embodiment, the guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride is present in a content ranging from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and the glyceryl oleate & coco glucoside is present in a content ranging from 1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 1.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For purely illustrative purposes, it will be possible to use the guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride sold under the trade name "JAGUAR® EXCEL" by the company SOLVAY, and the glyceryl oleate & coco-glucoside sold under the trade name "LAMESOFT® PO65 MB >> by BASF.

These thickening agents make it possible to increase the viscosity of the product without altering the transparency of the composition with a high perfume content, nor its stability.

[0061] Composition in gel form

The compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of a gel, in order, for example, to allow their distribution either by pouring from a bottle, or by pressure from a flexible tube, or by pressure exerted on the pump of a pump bottle. The gel is generally diluted with water at the time of application to the skin, which allows the formation of a foam during the massage or the friction of the composition with the keratin materials such as the skin, the leather scalp or hair.

The term “gel”, within the meaning of the present application, means a composition whose viscosity is at least 280 cP, preferably at least 600 cP, and more preferably at least 900 cP at room temperature. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of between 900 and 3000 cP at room temperature.

The viscosity can be measured by any viscometer and by any method known to those skilled in the art. [0064] Typically, the viscosity of the composition can be measured by any analogue Brookfield viscometer. By way of illustration, the viscosity was measured at ambient temperature, with a Brookfield LVT mobile 2 viscometer at speed 6 for 1 minute.

The viscosity measurement is carried out on the sample remaining at room temperature.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous gel.

[0067] Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. The water used can be sterile demineralised water and/or floral water and/or natural thermal or mineral water.

[0068] Conditioners

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises a conditioner.

Typically, the conditioner will be selected from hydroxypropyl Guar (and) hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, polyquaternium-10 and panthenol.

According to one embodiment, the conditioner is hydroxypropyl guar (and) hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or panthenol.

[0071] For purely illustrative purposes, it is possible to use hydroxypropyl guar (and) hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, sold under the trade name "Jaguar®C162" by the company SOLVAY®, polyquaternium-10 sold under the name commercial “UCARE™ Polymer JR-400” by the company Dow® and the panthenol sold under the trade name “PANTHENOL 75W” by the company BASF.

The composition according to the invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as for example preservatives such as sodium benzoate and chlorphenesin, sequestrants such as phytic acid & sodium hydroxide & sodium citrate, solubilizers such as PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, pH regulators such as citric acid and mixtures thereof.

[0073] The cosmetic composition of the invention may further comprise one or more humectants, including, but not limited to,

- polyols, and in particular glycerol, propylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, sorbito- glycosaminoglycans such as 'hyaluronic acid,

- sugars such as fructose, glucose, mannose, xylose,

- the saccharide isomerate from PENTAPHARM under the trade name Pentavitin®

- amino acids such as glycine, arginine, histidine, alanine, threonine, - lysine, glutamic acid, taurine, proline, serine and their derivatives,

- pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) and its salts, urea and its derivatives, ectoin, glucosamine, creatine, choline, betaine.

When present, the humectant(s) may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.5% to about 7% by weight.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a pH of between 4.5 and 6.

[0075] Galenic

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in a form chosen from a shower gel, a cleansing gel for the skin of the face, a make-up remover gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, a washing gel for the hands, a bubble bath.

[0076] Stability

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is stable.

The term "stable composition" means a composition which retains its organoleptic and physico-chemical properties over time, in particular its transparency and preferably also its pH. The stability is measured for 6 months at 5° C., 40° C., 45° C. after passing through the ovens and at ambient temperature.

The transparency will be evaluated by the visual evaluation method described above.

[0080] For the measurement of the stability, in addition to the transparency, the color can also be evaluated. Typically, if bleaching occurs, the product will be judged unstable. The yellowing is acceptable to it because it is induced by the high perfume content of the composition.

For the composition to be considered stable, the pH should preferably not vary by more than 0.3 pH units.

The pH can be measured by any means known to those skilled in the art, typically with a pH meter.

The pH is also measured on the sample which has remained at room temperature.

The stability of the perfume is evaluated by sensory perception of each sample, the sample placed at 5° C. being considered as a control sample because it is less altered by the aging of the perfume.

The perfume is considered stable if the notes of the perfume at room temperature, at 40° C. and at 45° C. are similar to those of the sample at 5° C., it being understood that a slight deviation is accepted if the fragrance remains recognizable.

Also, will be considered as stable, a composition:

- transparent according to the visual evaluation method and showing no bleaching;

- preferably whose pH does not vary by more than ±0.3 pH units compared to that measured at D0,

- preferably, having perfume notes similar to those of the control sample by sensory perception.

Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are stable after passages in ovens for 6 months, 5° C., 40° C., 45° C. and at room temperature. [0088] Preparation process

A subject of the present invention is also a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition as described above, comprising:

- the addition to water, with stirring and until a gel is formed, of a mixture comprising at least one viscosifier and at least one water-soluble additive,

- optionally, the addition of at least one preservative and at least one sequestrant;

- the addition of the surfactant system according to the invention and of at least one thickener;

- heating the gel thus obtained;

- the addition, while hot and with stirring, of a mixture comprising at least one solubilizer and at least one fragrance;

- optionally, pH adjustment;

- optionally, the addition of QSP water.

[0089] Process for treating keratin materials

The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair, consisting in applying to the said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair, a composition according to the present invention, then optionally rinsing, in particular with water.

[0090]Cosmetic treatment means the care and/or washing and/or cleaning and/or make-up removal of keratin materials.

[0091] The compositions according to the invention are applied to wet hair or skin and a foam generated by massage or friction with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination of the various dirt initially present on the hair, the leather scalp or skin.

[0092] Cosmetic use

A subject of the present invention is also the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for cleaning and/or washing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair.

[0093] Use of the surfactant system

The present invention also relates to the use of a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside to obtain a transparent, stable cosmetic composition comprising at least 2% by weight of perfume.

[0094] Preferably, the surfactant system comprises

The surfactant system, in these proportions, advantageously makes it possible to obtain a transparent, stable cosmetic composition with a high perfume content (that is to say comprising at least 2% by weight of perfume).

Examples

In the examples that follow, the following methods were used.

[0097] Ternary diagram:

The ternary diagram makes it possible to identify the areas where the combination of surfactants makes it possible to obtain a transparent, stable cosmetic composition with a high perfume content.

[0098] On the basis of the percentage of active material of each of the ingredients, it is possible to generate a ternary diagram. The ternary diagram includes three areas:

- The white area corresponds to the combinations of surfactants making it possible to obtain transparent, stable compositions with a high perfume content according to the invention,

- The light gray zone where the product becomes slightly cloudy at basic pH but whitens with the drop in pH, and

- The dark gray area where the compositions are more cloudy (emulsion formation). [0099] Parameters measured

The different parameters were measured on samples at room temperature, and at 5°C, 40°C, 45°C after drying in the oven, for 6 months, on D0, after 15 days (D15), after 1 month (1 M), 2 months (2M), 3 months (3M), 4 months (4M), 5 months (5M) and 6 months (6M).

The transparency was evaluated by the visual evaluation method previously described. The tint of the composition sample was also evaluated.

[0101] The pH is also measured on the sample which has remained at room temperature using a pH meter.

The stability of the perfume is evaluated by sensory perception of each sample by comparison with the control sample.

[0103] Sensory test

A sensory test was carried out in order to compare the quality of the foam obtained by the formula without sulfates and with a high perfume content according to the present invention with respect to the formula containing sulfates. The evaluation criteria were:

- the rate of foam formation;

- the amount of foam formed;

- the aeration of the foam;

- the intensity of the fragrance;

- the ease of rinsing and/or the persistence of a residual film.

This test was carried out on an experienced panel of 15 judges in standardized premises of the sensory analysis laboratory with controlled temperature and humidity.

[0105] The area of application was the arm.

[0106] Example 1: Emulsifying system

The transparency and stability of the formulations listed below were studied, according to the methods previously described.

The amounts are given in % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In each of the formulations (1 to 14) were introduced, in addition to the surfactant system (sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside):

- 4% by weight of perfume;

- 4% by weight of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (solubilizer); - 1.00% by weight of glyceryl oleate & coco-glucoside (viscosity);

- 0.2325% by weight of guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride (viscosity);

- QSP water.

Formulations 1, 6, 10 and 14 of Table 1 comprise the 3 emulsifiers in the amounts according to the invention and make it possible to obtain transparent and stable compositions.

[0109] [Table 1 ]

01 10] The results show that the surfactant system composed of the three emulsifiers in the proportions according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a transparent composition, with a high perfume content and without sulfates, unlike the formulations described below in Table 2.

[01 1 1 ] [Table 2]

01 12] Thus, the emulsifying system, composed of the three surfactants, in the proportions according to the invention, makes it possible to obtain transparent products, without sulphate and with a high perfume content.

[01 13] Example 2: Display on ternary diagram

Indeed, the white zone of [Fig. 1 ] corresponds to the transparent products in accordance with the invention (Points 1 , 6, 10, 14 are in the area we are looking for

[01 14] Example 3: Process for obtaining and transparent cosmetic composition with a high perfume content according to the invention

[01 15] The process described below was implemented to obtain a transparent cosmetic composition, in the form of a gel, with a high perfume content, as described in Table 3:

- citric acid has been introduced into water with stirring;

- jaguar® excel was mixed with glycerin. The mixture was then added to water with vigorous stirring until a gel formed;

- addition of sodium benzoate when the jaguar® excel forms a transparent gel;

- addition of the surfactant system according to the invention: plantacare 2000 UP, tego betaine P50C and laural TSF, as well as lamesoft PO65, and heating to 40°C;

- premix the cremophor RH 60 with the perfume at 40°C and shake;

- adjust the pH and do the QSP.

[01 16] [Table 3]

0117] Example 4: sensory test

The transparent composition without sulphates according to the invention and as described in table 5 below was compared with a formula containing sulphates and as described in table 6. [0119] [Table 5]

0120] [Table 6]

0121 ] LAURAL TSF is composed as follows: aqua (water) & sodium methy cocoyl tau rate .

[0122] TEXAPON N70 is composed as follows: sodium laureth sulfate & aqua [0123] TEGO BETAIN P 50 C is composed as follows: aqua (water) & cocamidopropyl betaine & sodium chloride & glycerin & coconut acid.

The PLANTACARE 2000 UP is composed as follows: decyl glucoside & aqua (water).

[0125] LAMESOFT PO65 MB is composed as follows: glyceryl oleate & coco-glucoside & aqua (water) & citric acid & glyceryl stearate & lecithin & tocopherol & ascorbyl palmitate.

[0126] The JAGUAR EXCEL is composed as follows: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride & aqua (water);

[0127] The sulphate-free formula has a slightly less airy foam and a slightly lower fragrance intensity compared to the shower gel comprising sulphates.

However, the two shower gels are not different on the other criteria and particularly, on the speed of formation of the foam, on the amount of foam formed, on the ease of rinsing and the residual film, and those, as it appears from Figure 2.

Thus, the surfactant system according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a transparent cosmetic composition without sulphate, with a high perfume content and stable.

Claims

22 Claims

[Claim 1] Transparent cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium,

[Claim 2] Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the said perfume is present in a content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 3] Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the said surfactant system comprises:

• 10 to 60% by weight, preferably 11 to 55% by weight of decyl glucoside,

[Claim 4] Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it also comprises at least one thickening agent chosen from guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride and glyceryl oleate & coco glucoside. [Claim 5] Composition according to Claims 3 or 4, characterized in that the guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride is present in a content ranging from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 1% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition and the glyceryl oleate & coco glucoside is present in a content ranging from 1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 1.2 to 1,

5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 6] Composition according to Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a gel, preferably in the form of an aqueous gel.

[Claim 7] Composition according to Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises a conditioner, chosen from hydroxypropyl Guar (and) hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, polyquaternium-10 and panthenol.

[Claim 8] Composition according to Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the composition has a form chosen from a shower gel, a cleansing gel for the skin of the face, a make-up removing gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hand wash, bubble bath.

[Claim 9] Process for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair, consisting in applying to the said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair, a composition according to the claims 1 to 8 and then optionally rinsing, in particular with water.

[Claim 10] Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to Claims 1 to 8 for cleaning and/or washing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and the hair.

[Claim 11] Use of a surfactant system consisting of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside for obtaining a transparent cosmetic composition, free of sulphates, stable and comprising at least 2% by weight of perfume . [Claim 12] Use according to claim 13, characterized in that the surfactant system comprises

• 5 to 65% by weight, preferably 10 to 60% by weight of decyl glucoside, • 35 to 85% by weight, preferably 36 to 80% by weight of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, and

• 5 to 20% by weight, preferably 8 to 15% by weight, of cocamidopropyl betaine.