FR3092757A1 - Composition cosmétique huileuse contenant des particules comprenant un colorant et un polysaccharide - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique huileuse contenant des particules comprenant un colorant et un polysaccharide Download PDF

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FR3092757A1
FR3092757A1 FR1901528A FR1901528A FR3092757A1 FR 3092757 A1 FR3092757 A1 FR 3092757A1 FR 1901528 A FR1901528 A FR 1901528A FR 1901528 A FR1901528 A FR 1901528A FR 3092757 A1 FR3092757 A1 FR 3092757A1
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cosmetic composition
particles
wax
composition
oil
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FR3092757B1 (fr
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Virginie Boulier
Melvyn LE KERNEAU
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Sensient Cosmetic Technologies SAS
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Sensient Cosmetic Technologies SAS
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Composition cosmétique huileuse contenant des particules comprenant un colorant et un polysaccharide La demande concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant : - plus de 5 % en poids de particules obtenues par séchage par pulvérisation d'une solution comprenant au moins un colorant et au moins un polysaccharide, où la solubilité dans l'eau desdites particules à 25°C est supérieure à 1 g/l et le diamètre moyen desdites particules, tel que mesuré par diffraction de laser, est inférieur à 20 µm, - au moins une huile acceptable en cosmétique, qui confère une bonne intensité de coloration et une bonne résistance au frottement lorsqu'elle est appliquée sur la peau, les paupières, le visage ou les lèvres, un procédé de maquillage de la peau, des paupières, du visage ou des lèvres, par utilisation de ladite composition cosmétique et l'utilisation de telles particules dans des produits cosmétiques. Figure pour l'abrégé : aucune

Description

Oily cosmetic composition containing particles
comprising a dye and a polysaccharide
The present invention concerns an oily cosmetic composition, preferably an oily make-up composition, comprising at least a dye.
Most of the cosmetic compositions, in particular make-up compositions comprise dyes to provide color when applied on the skin, eyebrow, face, or lips. Dyes create gentle, subtle, soft, restful effect when used at low concentration and they will stain the skin at high concentration. Most dyes, permitted in cosmetics are water soluble which make them easy to use in water.
Formulating non-aqueous based compositions comprising water soluble dyes is tough because of the low solubility of the dyes in oily phases. Besides, the coloring strength and/or coverage power of non-aqueous cosmetic compositions comprising water soluble dyes is usually much lower than the one of aqueous cosmetic compositions comprising dye(s). Hereafter, “(s)” means one or several components. For example “dye(s) means one or several dyes when a mixture of dyes is used. The challenge is to formulate cosmetic composition, especially a make-up composition, with high color strength with water soluble dyes or oil soluble dyes (without staining).
Moreover, one of the challenges of cosmetic compositions is the friction resistance thereof.
Accordingly, there is a need for an oily cosmetic composition comprising a dye which is easy to be formulated and which provides a good coloring strength and a good resistance to friction when applied on the skin, eyelids, face, or lips.
To this end, according to a first object, the invention concerns a cosmetic composition comprising:
- more than 5% by weight of particles obtained by spray drying a solution comprising at least a dye and at least a polysaccharide,
wherein the water solubility of said particles at 25°C is higher than 1g/L and the mean diameter of said particles as measured by laser diffraction is lower than 20 µm,
- at least a cosmetically acceptable oil.
The cosmetic composition comprises particles obtained by spray drying a solution, preferably an aqueous solution, comprising at least a dye and at least a polysaccharide. The particles thus comprise at least a dye and at least a polysaccharide. Typically, the dye(s) is(are) trapped in the polysaccharide(s). The particles thus differ from “treated colorant” which consists of colorant particle the surface of which is coated with a polysaccharide.
A dye is color soluble (solubility higher than 1g/L at 25°C) in the media in which it is used, whereas a pigment is not soluble (solubility lower than 1g/L at 25°C) in the media in which it is used. A dye is 100% soluble at the dosage at which it gives color, this dosage being different depending on the nature of the dye. The dye of the particles can be chosen among natural dyes, synthetic dyes and mixtures thereof. The dyes are preferably chosen among those listed on the official regulations in the different parts of the world and and natural extracts having colors, typically extracted from plants or obtained through biotechnology or other enzymatic process. Examples of dyes are FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Blue No. 2, FD&C Green, No. 3, FD&C Red No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow, No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Blue, No. 9, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Green, No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange, No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Orange No. 17, FD&C Red No. 4, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C, Red No. 8, D&C Red No. 9, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red, No. 19, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red, No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red, No. 31, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 39, FD&C Red, No. 40, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, Ext. D&C, Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 11, D&C Brown No. 1, Ext. D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Blue No, 6 and D&C Yellow No. 10. Fruits and vegetables also contain dyes including chlorophylls, anthoxanthins, betacyanins, carotenoids such as xanthaphylls, carotenes, flavonoids such as flavones anthocyanidins (e.g., cyanidin, pelarganodin, delphinidin, malvidin, paenidin), anthocyanin. For example, anthocyanin is present in fruits and vegetables such as, but not limited to, strawberries, pomegranates, red radish and purple sweet potato, cranberries, cherries and berries, and is responsible for their red color.
When the make-up composition is especially intended for the lips, at least one of the dye of the composition is preferably a red dye, most preferably a natural red dye.
The particles can comprise one or several dyes. The natures, number and proportions of dyes is adapted depending on the desired color.
The particles comprise at least a polysaccharide, notably at least a polysaccharide the water solubility of which at 25°C is higher than 1g/L. The preferred polysaccharide is chosen from maltodextrin, dextrin, trehalose dehydrate, arabic gum, cellulose, cyclodextrin, starch, starch esters such as starch sodium or aluminum octenyl succinate, and mixtures thereof, maltodextrin being the most preferred polysaccharide.
The weight ratio of dye(s) versus the polysaccharide(s) within the particles can vary from 1/99 to 99/1.
The particles can furthermore comprise one or several additives chosen from:
- an antioxidant such as sodium ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, di-alpha tocopherol,
- a flavor and/or a taste making ingredient such as sucrose, vanillin, stevia
- a polyol such as glycerol, butylene glycol or mixtures thereof,
- an emulsifier such as polysorbate 80, sucrose laurate or mixtures thereof,
- a pH modifier such as citric acid, potassium hydroxide or mixtures thereof,
- and mixtures thereof.
The particles can consist of one or several dye(s), of one or several polysaccharide(s) and of optional additive(s) as described above.
The water solubility of the particles at 25°C is higher than 1g/L, preferably higher that 10g/L. Such a water solubility is required so that the particles get solubilized when brought into contact with an aqueous solution.
The mean diameter of the particles is lower than 20 µm, notably lower than 15 µm preferably lower than 10 µm. The mean diameter is generally higher that 1 µm. The mean diameter is measured by laser diffraction in dry state, for example with a Granulometer laser M3000 with the sample preparation with aero. The particles are blown and spread on a surface, then the mean diameter is measured.
The particles are obtained by spray drying a solution comprising at least a dye and at least a polysaccharide. Such particles are also commercially available, for example as Natpure XFine from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.
The weight proportion of particles within the cosmetic composition depends on the intended coloring strength but is more than 5% in order to obtain a good coloring strength. Generally, the cosmetic composition comprises at least 10% by weight, notably from 10 to 50% by weight, typically from 10 to 40% by weight, preferably from 15 to 30% by weight of said particles.
The cosmetic composition also comprises at least a cosmetically acceptable oil, which is preferably chosen from dimethicone, caprylyl glycol, caprylic/capric tiglyceride, cyclopentasiloxane, helianthus annuus seed oil, paraffinum liquidum cocos nucifera oil, glycol distearate, simmondsia chinensis seed oil, olea europaea fruit oil octyldodecanol, argania spinosa kernel oil, aloe barbadensis leaf extract, ethylhexyl palmitate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, squalene, isopropyl myristate, petrolatum, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl palmitate, glyceryl oleate, ricinus communis seed oil, glycine soja oil, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isododecane, diisostearyl malate, paraffin, glyceryl caprylate isohexadecane, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclomethicone, macadamia ternifolia seed oil, isononyl isononanoate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, tridecyl trimellitate, hydrogenated polydecene, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, hydrogenated vegetable oil, trioctyldodecyl citrate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, tribehenin, triethylhexanoin, glyceryl stearate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, rosa canina fruit oil, lanolin oil, lanolin, propanediol dicaprylate, Argania Spinosa Kernel oil, C10-18 triglycerides, coconut Alkanes, coconut oil, cocos nucefera (coconut) oil, diheptyl succinate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl oleate, glycine soja (soybean) oil, Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) seed oil, jojoba seed oil, limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, mango butter dimer dilinoleyl esters/dimer dilinoleate copolymer, moringa oleifera seed oil, olea Europaea (Olive) fruit oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) oil, pomegranate seed oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel oil, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) seed oil, rubus idaeus (raspberry) seed oil, safflower oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) seed oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil, soybean oil, Squalane, triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Triisostearyl Citrate, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) seed oil, capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, and mixtures thereof.
Some cosmetically acceptable oil may be more preferred depending on the use of the cosmetic composition. For example, the preferred cosmetically acceptable oil of a cosmetic composition for make-up is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, diisostearyl malate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, dimethicone
ethylhexyl palmitate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, ricinus communis seed oil, caprylyl glycol, paraffin, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isododecane, simmondsia chinensis seed oil, squalene, cyclopentasiloxane, tridecyl trimellitate, hydrogenated polydecene, petrolatum, paraffinum liquidum, helianthus annuus seed oil, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, isohexadecane, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, hydrogenated vegetable oil, trioctyldodecyl citrate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, tribehenin, triethylhexanoin, glyceryl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, trihydroxystearin, isopropyl myristate, tricaprylyl citrate, cocos nucifera oil, jojoba esters, stearyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, astrocaryum murumuru seed butter, rosa canina fruit oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, lanolin oil, lanolin, olea europaea fruit oil, helianthus annuus seed cera, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, propanediol dicaprylate and mixtures thereof.
The weight proportion of the oil(s) within the cosmetic composition is preferably from 5 to 95%wt, most preferably from 60% to 95%.
In addition to the dye(s) comprised within the particles, the cosmetic composition can comprise dye(s), pigment(s), lake(s), toner(s) and mixture thereof. These dye(s), pigment(s), lake(s), toner(s) are “free”, i.e. not comprised within the particles.
The cosmetic composition can also comprise silica particles which are optionally surface treated, i.e. silica particles or surface treated silica particles, for example silica particles the surface of which has been treated with a halogen silane, halogen silazane or halogen siloxane. The surface treatment leads to the grafting of chemical groups on the Si of the silanol groups present at the surface of silica particles, said chemical groups being preferably chosen from monoalkylsilylate, dialkylsilylate (such as dimethyl silylate), or trialkylsilylate (such as a trimethylsilylate), the alkyl groups of said monoalkylsilylate, dialkylsilylate, trialkylsilyle comprising preferably from 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Particles of silica (such as AEROSIL®200 or AEROSIL®300 from Evonik), of hydrated silica (such as AEROSIL®R812 or AEROSIL®R812 S from Evonik), of silica dimethyl silylate (such as AEROSIL®R972 or AEROSIL®R974 from Evonik or Covasilic®15 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies), of trimethylsiloxysilicate, of trifluoropropyldimethyl/trimethylsiloxysilicate, of silica dimethicone silylate (such as AEROSIL®R202 from Evonik), of silica caprylyl silylate (such as AEROSIL®R805 from Evonik), of silica cetyl silylate (such as AEROSIL®R816 from Evonik) and mixtures thereof are examples of usable particles, silica dimethyl silylate particles being the most preferred. Silica particles HDK® from Wacker may also be used. Said silica particles act as texturing agent. When dimethylsilica silylate is present, the cosmetic composition can be a lipgloss. Generally, the silica particles have a mean diameter as measured by laser diffraction on solid state from 5 to 100 nm, more preferably from 5 to 50 nm, and/or a specific surface area as measure by Brunauer, Emmett and Teller method (BET)(according to standard ISO 9277 of 2010) from 50 to 500 m2/g. The cosmetic composition can also be free from dimethylsilica silylate, or even from optionally surface treated silica particles.
The weight proportion of optionally surface treated silica particles within the cosmetic composition is preferably from 2 % to 15%wt, most preferably from 4% to 10%.
The cosmetic composition can comprise at least a film forming polymer.. Examples of film forming polymers are polybutene, polyisobutene, trimethylsiloxysilicate, VP/Eicosene copolymer, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer, dilinoleic acid/propanediol copolymer, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimetethicone, ethylcellulose and VP/hexadecene copolymer. The cosmetic composition can also be free from film forming polymers, especially from one or all those listed above.
The cosmetic composition can comprise at least a cosmetically acceptable wax. According to the invention, an oil is liquid at 25°C, whereas a wax is solid at 25°C. Said wax can be chosen from natural or synthetic waxes or mixtures thereof. Examples of waxes are behenyl olivate, cera alba (beeswax), coconut Alkanes, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) seed Wax, Hydrogenated Castor oil, Hydrogenated Olive oil Unsaponifiables, Hydrogenated Vegetable oil, Jojoba Esters, rice wax, Berry wax, Myrica wax, grapeseed wax, Tea wax, Microcrystalline Wax/Cera Microcristallina/Cire Microcristalline, Polyethylene, Paraffin, Ozokerite, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, butyrospermum PARKII (shea) butter. The cosmetic composition can also be free from waxes, especially from one or all those listed above.
When present, the weight proportion of wax(es) within the cosmetic composition is preferably from 2 % to 20%wt, most preferably from 5% to 15%.
The cosmetic composition can comprise other cosmetically acceptable additive, such as taste masking agent(s), pH adjusting agent(s) such as citric acid or potassium citrate, antioxidant such as ascorbyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, filler(s) such as calcium carbonate, emulsifier(s), thickener(s) and mixtures thereof.
The water activity of the cosmetic composition at 25°C is preferably less than 0.6. It can be measured by a Resistive Electrolytic Hygrometer (REH), by a Capacitance Hygrometers or by a Dew Point Hygrometer. The water activity is linked to the water proportion of the cosmetic composition, which is very low. The cosmetic composition generally comprises less than 0.1% by weight, notably less than 0.05% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight of water, most preferably the cosmetic composition is water free. The water proportion can be measured with a Karl Fisher apparatus. Higher amount of water could lead to solubilizing the particles, which is not desired. The particles of the composition should remain intact until they are applied to the skin, eyelid, face, or lips.
The cosmetic composition is preferably a make-up composition, most preferably a make-up composition for the lips, such as a lipstick, a liquid lipcolor or a lipgloss.
The composition of the cosmetic composition can be adapted depending on the desired formulation of the make-up composition for the lips, as explained below.
According to a first alternative, the cosmetic composition comprises less than 5%wt, notably less than 1%wt, typically less than 0.1%wt, of wax(es), in particular of those listed above. Most preferably the cosmetic composition is free of wax, in particular of those listed above.
Preferably, in this first alternative, the cosmetic composition comprises less than 5%wt, notably less than 1%wt, typically less than 0.1%wt, of film forming polymer(s), in particular of those listed above. Most preferably the cosmetic composition is free of film forming polymer, in particular of those listed above.
Preferably, in this first alternative, the cumulated weight proportions of oil(s) (i.e. of the oil or of the mixture of oils when several oils are present) and of particles, within the cosmetic composition, are higher than 80%, preferably higher than 90%, most preferably higher than 95%, such as higher than 99%, or even of 100%. When said proportion is 100%, the cosmetic composition consists of one or several oils and of particles.
The cosmetic composition of this first alternative is typically a liquid lipcolor.
Such a composition is advantageous in that, when it is applied to the lips and then an aqueous solution (which can be used alone or in combination with an oil, for example it can be an oil in water emulsion or a 2 phase lotion containing oil and water) the pH of which at 25°C is lower than 8 is applied thereon (as in the method for making-up described hereafter), the make-up composition is “non-transferring”, i.e. the color is not-transferred easily to surfaces which come into contact with the lips. For example, the composition and the dye(s) that it contains are not transferred to the glass, on which the made-up person drinks, or to its clothes, or to the cheek or lips of another person after a kiss.
According to a second alternative, the cosmetic composition comprises at least a cosmetically acceptable wax, notably one or several of those listed above. The weight proportion of wax(es) within the cosmetic composition is preferably from 2 % to 20%wt, most preferably from 5% to 15%wt.
Because of the presence of the wax, such make-up composition for the lips does generally not exhibit the advantageous non-transferring properties of the composition according to first alternative. However, it generally tastes less than the composition according to first alternative. Moreover, the composition according to the second alternative generally exhibits a high color strength and a high resistance to water. Such a composition is typically a lipstick. Indeed, a cosmetic composition according to this second alternative exhibits a good texture and a high coverage, and is typically a lipstick.
In this second alternative, the cosmetic composition can comprise a film forming polymer, typically one or several of those listed above, or be free thereof.
According to a third alternative, the cosmetic composition comprises a film forming polymer, typically one or several of those listed above.
In this third alternative, the cosmetic composition generally comprises a optionally surface treated silica particles, preferably dimethylsilica silylate particles.
The cosmetic composition of this third alternative is typically a lipgloss.
According to a second object, the invention concerns a method for preparing the cosmetic composition defined above comprising a step consisting of mixing the particles defined above, at least a cosmetically acceptable oil and optionnally a cosmetically acceptable wax, and optionally the optional ingredients (polymer(s), additive(s) and mixtures thereof).
According to a third object, the invention concerns a method for making up the skin, eyelid, face, or lips comprising the steps consisting of:
(ii) applying a cosmetic composition as defined above, most preferably according to the first alternative described above, to at least a part of the skin, eyelids, face, or lips,
(iii) applying, on at least a part of the applied cosmetic composition, an aqueous solution the pH of which at 25°C is lower than 8,
with the proviso that, when the method is for making up skin, eyelid or face, the method comprises, before step (ii), a step (i) consisting of applying an aqueous compositioncomprising a thickening agent on the part of the skin, eyelids or face on which the cosmetic composition will be applied at step (ii). The aqueous solution applied at step (ii) can be used alone or in combination with an oil, for example it can be an oil in water emulsion or a 2 phase lotion containing oil and water.
The method advantageously provides a make-up with a good coloring strength, a good shine and a good resistance to friction. The coloring strength and resistance to friction are usually higher than those obtained with non-aqueous based compositions comprising dyes currently on the market. This method is particularly suited when a make-up composition for the lips as defined in the first alternative above is used at step (ii).
The occurrence of step (i) depends on the hydration of the surface to be made up. Indeed, the more hydrated the surface on which the cosmetic composition is to be applied at step (ii) is, the more the cosmetic composition adheres to the skin. When the composition is intended to be used on a low hydrated surface, such as skin, eyelids or face or dehydrated lips, the method comprises step (i). However, step (i) is not required for a well hydrated surface, such as hydrated lips.
Accordingly:
  • when the method is for making up skin, eyelid or face, the method comprises a step (i) consisting of applying an aqueous composition comprising a thickening agent on the part of the skin, eyelids or face on which the cosmetic composition will be applied at step (ii), and
  • when the method is for making up lips, step (i) is not required, but is preferably present.
The aqueous composition applied at step (i) can be an aqueous solution, an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-based stick of a water-based gel. It corresponds to a lip primer.
The thickening agent is preferably chosen from cellulose gum, xanthan gum, , hectorite, PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether (which is for example sold as Adekanol GT-730 by the company Adeka) and mixtures thereof. For example, the thickener sold by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies under the name Thickagent LC can be used.
In addition to the thickening agent(s), the aqueous composition applied at step (i) can comprise one or several ingredients chosen from a gelling agent, an emulsifier, an oil, a polyol (such as glycerin, propanediol, butanol and mixtures thereof), an active ingredient for skin care and mixtures thereof.
When step (i) is implemented, step (ii) is preferably implemented at least 5s, typically around 10 s, after step (i). This allows the applied aqueous composition comprising a thickening agent to dry.
The method comprises a step (ii) consisting of applying a cosmetic composition as defined above to at least a part of the skin, eyelids, face, or lips. This step leads to a deposit on said part of a thin film of cosmetic composition, the width of which is usually from 0.1 to 100 µm, notably from 1 to 20 µm.
The method comprises a step (iii) consisting of applying on at least a part of the applied cosmetic composition, preferably on the whole surface of the applied cosmetic composition, an aqueous solution the pH of which at 25°C is lower than 8, notably lower than 7.4, preferably lower than 7, most preferably from 4 to 6.
The aqueous solution can be saliva, the pH of which is usually from 6.5 to 7.4.
The applied aqueous solution preferably comprises citric acid, notably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 0.2% by weight. It can be a fruit juice, pineapple juice being most preferred.
Applying said aqueous solution leads to a change in the texture of the already applied cosmetic composition, which becomes thicker with a brighter color shade and a higher gloss.
Step (iii) allows obtaining a make-up film having a greater flexibility and a better resistance to friction resistance. The make-up film is bright with a high color strength. This was totally unexpected, because generally, applying an aqueous solution, such as a fruit juice, on make-up leads to the deterioration of the make-up. Without wishing to be bound to a specific theory, the inventors consider that, when the aqueous solution is applied, the polysaccharide of the particles forms a film surrounding the dye and allowing the fixation thereof on the skin eyelid, face, or lips.
The friction resistance improvement is particularly observed when the aqueous solution is pineapple juice. Without wishing to be bound to a specific theory, the inventors consider that one of the component of pineapple juice allows obtaining a film having a greater flexibility and a better resistance to friction resistance.
The step order between steps (i), (ii) and (iii) of the method is important. Indeed, The inventors observed that a method consisting of:
  • step (ii) as defined above (applying the cosmetic composition) and then
  • a step of applying a water solution, saliva or pineapple juice with a thickening agent added therein (such a step corresponding to a “combination” of steps (i) and (iii) as defined above),
does not lead to a make up with good coloring strength and a good resistance to friction, contrarily to the method according to the invention.
Carrying steps (i) and (ii) one after the other is also required. Indeed, implementing steps (i) and (ii) simultaneously, i.e. applying on the skin a biphasic composition comprising an aqueous phase comprising a thickening agent and an oily phase consisting of the cosmetic composition as defined above does not provide the advantageous effects described above either. Without wishing to be bound to a specific theory, the inventors consider that the particles of the cosmetic composition get solubilized into the aqueous composition, and this leads to a different make-up than the method according to the invention wherein particles are applied on the skin, eyelids, face, or lips.
The method preferably comprises a step (iv) of mixing the aqueous solution applied at step (iii) with the already applied cosmetic composition, for example with a finger.
The method can comprise, after step (iii), or, if present, after step (iv), a step (v) of applying a lipbalm on at least a part of the applied cosmetic composition. The lipbalm improves the long lasting of the obtained make-up. The make-up obtained at the end of the method advantageously exhibits a bright and intense color, and is friction- and water-resistant.
According to a fourth object, the invention concerns a kit comprising:
  • a first container containing the cosmetic composition as defined above,
  • a second container containing an aqueous solution the pH of which at 25°C is lower than 8, typically as described above, and
  • optionally another container containing an aqueous composition comprising a thickening agent, typically as described above, and/or
  • optionally another container containing a lipbalm.
Such a kit is particularly suited to implement the method for making up the skin, eyelid, face, or lips described above. The cosmetic composition contained within the first container is preferably according to the first alternative described above.
According to a fifth object, the invention concerns the use of the particles defined above in cosmetics, preferably in make-up. The embodiments describes above also apply.
The examples hereafter illustrate the invention.
EXAMPLES
The particles used in the examples are “Natpure Xfine” particles sold by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies. They comprised maltodextrin and arabic gum as polysaccharide, and different dye(s) depending on the example below.
Example 1: Lipstick with plant based dyes
Two lipsticks having the compositions detailed at table 1 were prepared and tested for their water resistance and taste.
Phase Trade name INCI Supplier With Natpure XFine (invention) Red raddish from EP color (comp.)
A Covalip 94 WP Paraffin (and) Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Ozokerite (and) Paraffinum Liquidum (and) Copernica Cerifa Cera (and) Candelilla Cera (and) Butyl Stearate (and) Ethylene/VA Copolymer (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 20 20
A Eutanol G Octyldodecanol BASF 33 33
B Eutanol G Octyldodecanol BASF 20 20
B Natpure XFine Sunset Red RR315 Anthocyanin (and) Citric acid (and) Maltodextrin Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 20 0
B CD Red radish powder Anthocyanins EP Color 0 20
Water resistance No colored water drop
Taste Less taste Stronger taste
Table 1: Composition of the two lipsticks
Process for the preparation of the lipsticks:
Heat phase A at 85°C Heat phase under mixing
Prepare a dispersion of Natpure XFine with Eutanol G 50/50 with speedmixer 3000 rpm 1 minute weight the quantity for phase B in a crucible
Pour melted phase A little by little into phase B while mixing with a spatula until you get a homogeneous paste
Put the mixture back in the beaker and heat at 75°C while mixing
Once melted and homogeneous, pour into mold
Two other lipsticks having the compositions detailed at table 2 were prepared.
Phase Trade name INCI Supplier % full shade % reduced shade
A Covalip 94 WP Paraffin (and) Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Ozokerite (and) Paraffinum Liquidum (and) Copernica Cerifa Cera (and) Candelilla Cera (and) Butyl Stearate (and) Ethylene/VA Copolymer (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 33.95 26.95
A Radia 7607 Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) butter Oleon 5 5
A DUB MDIS Diisostearyl Malate Stearinerie Dubois 8 8
A Lipocire A SG C10-18 Triglycerides Gattefossé 2 2
A Hailuscent ISDA Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dinoleate Copolymer HAI Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo 5 5
A Eutanol G Octyldodecanol BASF 6 6
B Crodamol IPP Isopropyl Palmitate Croda 20 20
B Natpure XFine Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 20 20
B Covanol White ON 9788 CI77891 (and) Octyldodecanol (and) Stearic acid (and) Magnesium Hydroxide (and) Aluminium Hydroxide (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 7
C Tocopheryl acetate Tocopheryl acetate DSM 0.05 0.05
Table 2: Composition of the two lipsticks
Process:
Heat phase A at 85°C under mixing
Prepare a dispersion of Natpure XFine withisopropyl palmitate with speedmixer 3000 rpm 1 minute. Weight the quantity for phase B in a crucible. Add the white dispersion
Pour melted phase A little by little into phase B while mixing with a spatula until you get a homogeneous paste
Put the mixture back in the beaker and heat at 75°C while mixing
Once melted and homogeneous, pour into mold
Method to evaluate water resistance
The formula is applied on the forearm. Then it is passed through running water for a few seconds.
If the product fades and the water is colored then the product is not water resistant.
If the product does not fade and the water is not colored, it has some water resistance.
Method to evaluate the taste & smell
The formula is smelled directly in the product whichever the texture and the applicator if there is one.
The formula is applied on the lips and tasted by smudging the lips.
Example 2: Lipgloss with plant based dyes
Lipgloss having the composition detailed at table 3 were prepared.
Phase Trade name INCI Supplier %
A Natpure Feel M Eco Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Octyldodecanol (and) Octyldodecyl Myristate Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 47.5
A Sensicrystal Polybutene (and) Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 30
A Indopol H-100 Polybutene INEOS Oligomers 10
A Euxyl PE 9010 Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin Schülke & Mayr 0.5
B Natpure XFine Radish RR318or Natpure XFine Radish RR311 Anthocyanin (and) Citric acid (and) Maltodextrin Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 5
C Covasilic 15 Silica dimethyl silylate Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 6.5
D Propylene carbonate Propylene carbonate 0.5
Table 3: Composition of the lipgloss
Process:
Prepare phase A and and mix until homogeneous
Add phase B slowly into phase A with mixing. Mix until Covasilic 15 is fully dispersed.
Add phase C and mix until homogeneous.
Add phase D and mix for 5 minutes.
Example 3: Make-up method
Demonstration of the improved colored strength of a liquid lipstick according to the invention which comprises particles comprising a dye, compared to a lipstick comprising a free dye.
Demonstration of the improved adhesion conferred by step (i) in case of a dehydrated skin
Liquid lipsticks having the composition described in table 4 have been prepared
Formula at 20% Formula at 5% Formula at 20% Formula at 5%
Beetroot extract (and) maltodextrin (and) citric acid (and) Ascorbic acid(1) 20 5 20 5
Octyldodecanol - - 80 95
Propanediol dicaprylate 80 95 - -
(1): sold under the name “Natpure XFine Beetroot BR312” by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
Table 4: Composition of the liquid lipsticks
Compositions (i), (ii) and (iii) having the compositions and prepared as detailed below were applied subsequently on the forearm.
- composition (i) (aqueous composition comprising a thickening agent) 1g of Adekanol GT-730 is dispersed in 99g of water with a propeller at 1000 rpm. ADEKANOL GT-730 is from NAGASE & CO., LTD and consists of PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Water (and) Potassium Laurate (and) Tocopherol (INCI).
- composition (ii) (composition detailed at table 4)
composition comprising particles at 5%wt:
2.5 g of particles are dispersed in 47.5 g of oil (either propanediol dicaprylate or octyldodecanol) with a speedmixer DAC 150, 1 FVZ commercialized by FlackTek Inc, during 1 minutes, 3000 rpm.
or composition comprising particles at 20%wt:
- composition (iii) (aqueous composition having a pH < 8)
The application of each composition was carried out as follows:
- step (i) : A very fine layer of composition (i) is applied on the skin and allow to dry 10s.
- step (ii): A layer of composition (ii) is applied with fingers or with an applicator on composition (i)
- step (iii): Just after composition (ii) is applied, one small drop of composition (iii) is applied with a finger on composition (ii) and blended with composition (ii) with the finger.
Shear resistance test:
1 minute after application of composition (iii), the surface is touched with clean fingers to assess the adhesion and (non-)transferring properties of the make-up composition. The results are provided at table 2.
  • No adhesion: means all the color can easily transfer on the finger
  • Good adhesion with no transfer: means none of the color transfer on fingers
Good adhesion but transfer: means some of the color will transfer while some will stay on the skin.
Dispersion in Propanediol dicaprylate (1) Dispersion in Octyldodecanol (3)
Steps implemented (ii) + (iii) (i) + (ii) + (iii) (ii) + (iii) (i) + (ii) + (iii)
% of particles in the oil at step (ii) 5% 20% 5% 20% 5% 20% 5% 20%
Natpure XFine Beetroot BR312 (5) 0 0 2 2 0 0 2 2
Natpure XFine Radish RR318 (5) 0 0 2 2 0 0 2 2
Natpure XFine Potato SP313 (5) 0 0 2 2 0 0 2 2
Natpure XFine Radish RR311 (5) 0 0 2 2 0 0 2 2
Beetroot dye in powder form (7) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Red 7 (9) (comp.) 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 -
Red 28 (10) (comp.) 0 - 0 - 0 - 0
Maltodextrine IP DE 10 (11) (comp.) - 0 - 0 - 0 - 0
Natpure XFine Spirulina SL615 - 0 - 2 - - - -
Natpure Xfine Turmeric TU114 - 0 - 2 - - - -
NatpureXfine containing cupper chlorophyline (and) maltodextrine (and) - - - 2 - - - -
EP Color CD Red Radish powder (comp.) - - - 0 - - - -
Natpure XFine with synthetic dye Red 3 2
0: no adhesion
1: Adhesion but transfer
2: Adhesion and no transfer
(1) Dub Zenoat from Stearinerie Dubois
(3) Eutanol G from BASF
(5) from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
(7)Beet powder HC 03605 from Sensient food color
(9) D&C red GZ0079 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
(10) Unipure Red LC328 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
(11) Glucidex DE18-20 or DE10 From Roquette Frère
Table 5: results of the shear resistance tests
Example 4 : make-up method: Demonstration of the improved resistance to friction conferred by step (iii)
On the forearm was applied:
on one location:
composition (i): a 1%wt thickening agent LC aqueous solution (the same than in example 2), then
then composition (ii): a 25%wt dispersion of particles comprising red raddish (Natpure XFine Sunset Red RR315) in octyldodecanol
on another location nearby:
the same compositions (i) and (ii), and then composition (iii) which was a 6%wt citric acid aqueous solution
The skin was then rubbed vigorously with paper towel.
The film obtained by implementing step (iii) resisted to the rubbing, whereas the one obtained by carrying out steps (i) and (ii) only was mostly eliminated. This demonstrates that implementing step (iii) allows improving the resistance to friction of the obtained make-up.
The experiment was repeated, except that pineapple was applied at step (iii) instead of the citric acid aqueous solution. The obtained composition was more resistant to friction than the one obtained by implementing step (iii) with citric acid aqueous solution.
Example 5 : Kit
(i) Lip primer
A lip primer having the composition detailed at table 6 was prepared.
Component Provider INCI Proportion
Thickagent LC Sensient Cosmetic Technologies Cellulose (and) Hectorite (and) xanthane gum 0.5%
Water 99.2%
Preservatives Schulke & Mahr 0.3%
Table 6: Composition of the lip primer
Disperse thickagent LC under stirring in Water and preservatives. Mix well until homogeneous.
This lip primer can be introduced in the third container of the kit.
(ii) liquid lip color
A liquid lip color having the composition detailed at table 7 was prepared.
Component Provider INCI Proportion
Natpure XFine Radish RR311 Sensient Cosmetic Technologies Anthocyanins (and) Citric acid (and) Maltodextrin 30%
Eutanol G BASF Octyl dodecanol 70%
Table 7: composition of the liquid lip color
Process:
Disperse Natpure XFine Red RR315 in octyl dodecanol with a propeller. In the lab, the dispersion is made with a speedmixer DAC 150, 1 FVZ commercialized by FlackTek Inc, during 1 minutes, 3000 rpm.
This liquid lip color can be introduced in the first container of the kit.
(iii) Citric acid solution
To be applied with a Varnish Essence
Component Provider INCI Proportion
Natpure Xtra Sensient Cosmetic Technologies Plant extract 0.1%
Water 99.5%
Preservatives Schulke & Mahr 0.3%
Citric Acid 0.1%
This liquid lip color can be introduced in the second container of the kit.
Table 8: Composition of the citric acid solution
(v) Lipbalm
Component Provider INCI Proportion
Covalip 94 WP (1) Paraffin (and) Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Ozokerite (and) Paraffinum Liquidum (and) Copernica Cerifa Cera (and) Candelilla Cera (and) Butyl Stearate (and) Ethylene/VA Copolymer (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid 44
Shea butter (2) Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) butter 5.5
DUB MDIS (4) Diisostearyl Malate 9
Crodamol IPP (5) Isopropyl Palmitate 23.5
Lipocire A SG (6) C10-18 Triglycerides 2
Hailuscent ISDA (7) Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dinoleate Copolymer 5
Eutanol G (3) Octyl dodecanol 11
Table 9: Composition of the lipbalm
This lipbalm can be introduced in the fourth container of the kit.

Claims (11)

  1. Cosmetic composition comprising:
    - more than 5% by weight of particles obtained by spray drying a solution comprising at least a dye and at least a polysaccharide,
    wherein the water solubility of said particles at 25°C is higher than 1g/L and the mean diameter of said particles as measured by laser diffraction is lower than 20 µm, and
    - at least a cosmetically acceptable oil.
  2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide of the particles is chosen from maltodextrin, dextrin, trehalose dehydrate, arabic gum, cellulose, cyclodextrin, starch, starch esters such as starch sodium or aluminum octenyl succinate, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably maltodextrin.
  3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising at least a film forming polymer, preferably chosen from the group consisting of polybutene, polyisobutene, trimethylsiloxysilicate, VP/Eicosene copolymer, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer, dilinoleic acid/propanediol copolymer, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimetethicone, ethylcellulose, VP/hexadecene copolymer and mixtures thereof.
  4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising at least a wax, preferably chosen from the group consisting of behenyl olivate, cera alba (beeswax), coconut Alkanes, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) seed Wax, Hydrogenated Castor oil, Hydrogenated Olive oil Unsaponifiables, Hydrogenated Vegetable oil, Jojoba Esters, rice wax, Berry wax, Myrica wax, grapeseed wax, Tea wax, Microcrystalline Wax/Cera Microcristallina/Cire Microcristalline, Polyethylene, Paraffin, Ozokerite, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, butyrospermum PARKII (shea) butter and mixtures thereof.
  5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising less than 5%wt, notably less than 1%wt, typically less than 0.1%wt, of wax(es), and being most preferably free of wax.
  6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is a make-up composition for the lips and wherein at least one of the dyes of the particles is a red dye.
  7. Method of making up the skin, eyelid, face, or lips comprising the steps consisting of:
    (ii) applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 to at least a part of the skin, eyelids, face, or lips,
    (iii) applying, on at least a part of the applied cosmetic composition, an aqueous solution the pH of which at 25°C is lower than 8,
    with the proviso that, when the method is of making up skin, eyelid or face, the method comprises, before step (ii), a step (i) consisting of applying an aqueous composition comprising a thickening agent on the part of the skin, eyelids or face on which the cosmetic composition will be applied at step (ii).
  8. The method according to claim 7, wherein the cosmetic composition applied at step (ii) is according to claim 5.
  9. The method according to claim 7 or 8, wherein the aqueous solution applied at step (iii) comprises citric acid, and is preferably pineapple juice, or wherein the aqueous solution is saliva.
  10. Kit comprising:
    - a first container containing the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, preferably according to claim 5,
    - a second container containing an aqueous solution the pH of which at 25°C is lower than 8,
    - optionally another container containing an aqueous composition comprising a thickening agent, and/or
    - optionally another container containing a lipbalm.
  11. Use of the particles as defined in claim 1 in cosmetics, preferably in make-up.
FR1901528A 2019-02-14 2019-02-14 Composition cosmétique huileuse contenant des particules comprenant un colorant et un polysaccharide Active FR3092757B1 (fr)

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1810664A1 (fr) * 2006-01-20 2007-07-25 Societe L'Oreal S.A. Composition huileuse colorée
US20130281548A1 (en) * 2012-04-19 2013-10-24 Epc (Beijing) Natural Products Co., Ltd. Compositions comprising a combination of at least one colorant and at least one polysaccharide
WO2018178365A1 (fr) * 2017-03-30 2018-10-04 Sensient Cosmetic Technologies Particules colorées à teneur élevée en pigment

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1810664A1 (fr) * 2006-01-20 2007-07-25 Societe L'Oreal S.A. Composition huileuse colorée
US20130281548A1 (en) * 2012-04-19 2013-10-24 Epc (Beijing) Natural Products Co., Ltd. Compositions comprising a combination of at least one colorant and at least one polysaccharide
WO2018178365A1 (fr) * 2017-03-30 2018-10-04 Sensient Cosmetic Technologies Particules colorées à teneur élevée en pigment

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