FR3042707A1 - AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ORGANOSILANE OR OLIGOMER OF THE SAME ORGANOSILANE AND A HYDROPHOBIC COATED PIGMENT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: a) at least one aqueous phase, and b) at least one hydrophobic coated pigment, and c) at least one organosilane of the following formula (I) and / or one of its oligomers: in which: R4 represents a halogen, a group OR 'or R'1; R5 represents a halogen, a group OR '' or R'2; R6 is halogen, OR '' 'or R'3; R1, R2, R3, R ', R ", R' '', R'1, R'2, R'3 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, optionally bearing additional chemical groups such as acidic or amine groups, wherein R1, R2, R ', R' 'and R' '' may further denote hydrogen, and at least two of R4, R5 and R6 being different from R groups '1, R'2 and R'3.

Description

AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ORGANOSILANE OR OLIGOMER OF THE SAME ORGANOSILANE AND A HYDROPHOBIC COATED PIGMENT

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising: a) at least one aqueous phase, and b) at least one hydrophobic coated pigment, and c) at least one organosilane of formula (I) and / or one of its oligomers which will be defined below in detail.

Preferably, the invention relates to a composition of the foundation type. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition such as as previously defined

The skin is not a smooth and solid surface, and has reliefs and microreliefs such as pores, fine lines, wrinkles, pimples, scars, dry areas, which form a somewhat bumpy surface. Quite often, this surface, with its irregularities, forms a very pleasant to look at but the irregularities are such that sometimes the surface is judged unsightly. The application of a make-up composition such as a foundation is the most effective approach to beautify an irregular skin by allowing to hide stains and dyschromias, to reduce the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and pores. wrinkles, and hide pimples and traces of acne, in this respect coverage is one of the main properties sought. Pigments are used in these compositions. However, they tend to accumulate in reliefs such as pores and wrinkles and accentuate relief imperfections. It is therefore important to be able to improve the distribution of pigments on the surface of the skin to correct this accentuation. On the other hand, commonly used foundations include at least one aqueous phase such as oil-in-water emulsions or water-in-oil emulsions. It is important that the pigments present in these compositions have good dispersibility in order to obtain a stable and homogeneous composition. On the other hand, foundations in the form of oil-in-water emulsion often have poor covering properties.

Hydrophobic coated pigments are widely used in foundation as they provide better adhesion, better hold, they also have a better cosmetic application. These pigments are traditionally used in water-in-oil emulsions but this type of formula lacks freshness

Thus, there is still a need to provide novel aqueous makeup formulations of a keratinous material, in particular skin, based on hydrophobic coated pigments that effectively hide the imperfections of the colon without accentuating the relief imperfections and in which the stability and the homogeneity of the composition, the dispersibility of the pigments and their distribution on the surface of the keratin material are improved. It is also sought to obtain compositions based on hydrophobic coated pigments which provide the application with a good feeling of freshness.

Alkoxysilanes, such as aminoalkylalkoxysilanes, are known in cosmetics, in particular in patent US4344763, in patent US5750092 in self-tanning products, in hair products, in particular for hair styling, conditioning or hair care, in documents EP1216018, EP1267801, EP2343041, in US Pat. WO2012 / 038880 application for nail polish, in the application WO2013 / 160364 for the care of the skin. Alkoxysilanes are also known for hydrophobically treating pigments in JP2012072139, JP2012001500, KR20110054363.

In the course of its research, the Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that the objective indicated above could be achieved with a composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, especially for coating keratin materials, more particularly makeup and / or care products. keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising: a) at least one aqueous phase, and b) at least one hydrophobic coated pigment, and c) at least one organosilane of formula (I) and / or one of its oligomers which will be defined later in detail.

In the compositions of the invention, the hydrophobic modified pigments in combination with an organosilane of formula (I) and / or an oligomer of said organosiloxane may be dispersed finely and homogeneously. After application to the keratinous material, in particular to the skin, they are distributed uniformly over the surface of the skin and allow, by good coverage, to effectively mask the imperfections of the colon, while avoiding accumulating in the reliefs such as wrinkles or pores.

This discovery is the basis of the invention.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising: a) at least one aqueous phase; and b) at least one hydrophobic coated pigment, and c) at least one organosilane of formula (I) and / or one of its oligomers which will be defined later in detail.

Preferably, the invention relates to a composition of the foundation type. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition such as as defined previously Definitions

In the context of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" is understood to mean the skin (body, face) and the lips. More particularly, the term "keratinous material" is understood to mean the skin.

By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to divert the consumer from the skin. use this composition.

By organosilane is meant an organic compound comprising a single silicon atom.

ORGANOSILANES AND THEIR OLIGOMERS

The organosilane (s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from the following compounds of formula (I) and / or their oligomers:

(I) wherein: R4 is halogen, OR 'or R'1;

Rs represents a halogen, a group OR "or R'2; R6 represents a halogen, a group OR '' or R'3; R 1, R 2, R 3, R ', R ", R'", R '1, R' 2, R '3 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group optionally bearing groups additional chemical groups such as acidic or amine groups, R-1, R 2, R ', R "and R'" may further denote hydrogen, and at least two of R 4, R 5 and R 6 groups being different from R 'groups 1, R'2 and R'3.

Preferably, the groups R 1, R 2, R ', R' 1, R '2, R' 3, R "and R '' are chosen from C 1 -C 12 alkyl radicals, C 5 to C 6 alkyl radicals, and alkyl radicals. (C 1 -C 5) aryl from C 5 to C 6, and aryl (C 5 -C 6) alkyl of C 1 to C 6.

Preferably, the groups R 3 is chosen from C 1 -C 12 alkylene radicals, optionally substituted with an amino group, C 5 -C 14 arylene, C 5 -C 14 arylene (C 1 -C 8) arylene, and C 5 -C 14 arylene alkylene groups. in C1-C8.

Among the organosilanes according to the invention of formula (I), mention may be made of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane and N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane and or their oligomers, as well as their mixtures.

More particularly, the organosilane of formula (I) according to the invention is 3-aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES) .APTES may for example be sold by the company Dow Corning under the name XIAMETER OFS-6011 SILANE.or by the Shin-Etsu company under the name KBE-903

The organosilane (s) of formula (I) and / or one of its or their oligomers are preferably present in the composition according to the invention at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

HYDROPHOBIC COATED PIGMENTS

The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting film. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

By "hydrophobic coated pigment" is meant any pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

By "lipophilic compound" is meant any compound that is soluble or dispersible in an oily phase.

By "hydrophobic compound" is meant by any compound insoluble in water.

According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophobic modified pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments.

By "inorganic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Π3Ο5, TiO2, TiO, ZrO2 mixed with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

The particle size of the coated pigment is strictly greater than 100 nm.

For the purposes of the invention, the "size" of a particle means its D50. The D50, or volume mean size, corresponds to the particle size defined so that 50% by volume of the particles are smaller than D50.

The average volume size can be appreciated by diffraction of light using a Malvern MasterSizer laser granulometer, said particles to be evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium such as for example octyldodecyl neopentanoate.

According to one embodiment, the size of the pigment particles according to the invention ranges from 100 nm to 25 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 10 μm.

In the context of the present invention, the hydrophobic modified mineral pigments are more particularly hydrophobic modified pigments of iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

Coating of the pigment

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

For the purposes of the invention, the "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used. The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments. The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment. The coating may be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simply stirring the particles and said surfactant, optionally while hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other particles. ingredients of the makeup or care composition. The coating may be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,578,266.

The chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface pigments.

Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and their mixtures.

Silicone surface agent

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be surface-treated wholly or partially with a compound of a silicone nature.

Silicone surfactants may be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

By "organopolysiloxane compound" is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals bonded to the silicon atoms. i) Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane

Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogensiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

The alkoxy group may be represented by the radical RO- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

A method for surface treatment of pigments with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists in dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent and then adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surface agent may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, especially chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes. ii) Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

Alkoxy functional silanes are especially described by Witucki in "Silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993".

Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137 (OSI Specialties) and Prosil 9202 (PCR) can be used for coating the pigments. The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive end group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino is described in JP 077-196946. They are also suitable for the treatment of pigments. iii) Polymers of silicone-acrylate

Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in US Pat. Nos. 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, and in US Pat. No. 5,219,560 and EP 0 388,582 can be used. . Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers comprising in their structure the following unit of formula (I):

(O) in which the radicals G 1, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical, the radicals G 2, which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 10 alkylene group, G 3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer from 0 to 50; b is an integer ranging from 10 to 350; c is an integer from 0 to 50, provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.

Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics: the radicals G 1 denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical; n is nonzero, and the radicals G2 represent a divalent radical C1-C3, preferably a propylene radical; G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the (C 1 -C 10) alkyl (meth) acrylate type, preferably of the isobutyl (meth) acrylate or methyl (meth) acrylate type.

Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting member, mixed polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type. and of the poly (meth) acrylate type. Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connecting member, poly (meth) acrylate type polymer units. isobutyl. iv) Silicone resins The silicone surface agent can be chosen from silicone resins.

By "resin" is meant a three-dimensional structure.

Silicone resins can be soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.

The nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH 3) 3 SiO 1/2, the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter D signifies a difunctional unit (CH3) 2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms.

The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH3) Si03 / 2

In the units M, D and T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by a group R other than the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or else a hydroxyl group.

Finally, the letter Q signifies a tetra-functional unit S104 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, themselves linked to the remainder of the polymer.

Various resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of substituted radicals, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and size of the hanging chains. By way of example of these silicone resins, mention may be made of: siloxysilicates which may be trimethylsiloxysilicate of formula [(CH 3) 3 X SiXO] xX (SiC> 4/2) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80; polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH 3 SiO 3/2) x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted by a group R as defined above; polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US 5,246,694. By way of examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH 3 SiO 3/2 (T units), which can also be used. up to 1% by weight of (CH 3) 2 SiO 2/2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000; by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3S1O3 / 2 and have Si-OH end groups (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or alternatively under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups.

As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the references SR1000, E 1 170-002 or SS 4230, by the company General Electric or under the references TMS 803, WACKER 803 and 804 by the company WACKER SILICONE CORPORATION.

Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning. By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a silicone compound, mention may be made of: the red iron oxide / dimethicone sold under the reference SA-C 338075-10 by the company Miyoshi Kasei; and

Fluoride surfactant

The pigments may be surface-treated wholly or partially with a fluorinated compound.

The fluorinated surfactants may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups.

The term "perfluoroalkyl radical" is understood to mean an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in the patent application EP 0 486 135 and sold under the trade names Fomblin by the company Montefluos.

Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanolamine sold by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530 can be used.

Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, perfluorinated aromatic hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and perfluorinated hydrocarbon compounds containing at least one heteroatom.

Among the perfluoroalkanes, there may be mentioned the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), there may be mentioned perfluorodecalin sold under the name "FLUTEC PP5 GMP" by Rhodia, perfluoro (methyldecalin), perfluoro (C3-C5 alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro (butylcyclohexane).

Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo [3.3.1] nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo [3.3.1] nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene. .

Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene. By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, mention may be made of: yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601 by the company Daito Kasei; the red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L by the company Daito Kasei; black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL 100 by the company Daito Kasei; titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 T1O2 CR 50 by the company Daito Kasei; yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether sold under the reference Iron oxide yellow BF-25-3 by the company Toshiki; DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference D & C Red 7 FHC by Cardre Inc.; and the DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under the reference T 9506 by the company Warner-Jenkinson.

Fluoro-silicone surface agent

The pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a fluoro-silicone compound.

The fluoro-silicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes.

As perfluoroalkyl silanes, mention may be made of LP-IT and LP-4T products marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

Perfluoroalkyl dimethicones may be represented by the following formula:

R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group;

Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms; m is selected from 0 to 150, preferably from 20 to 100; and n is chosen from 1 to 300, preferably from 1 to 100. By way of example of commercial references of pigment treated with a fluoro-silicone compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium dioxide 100TA by Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.

Other lipophilic surfactants The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from: i) metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; As metal soaps, mention may be made in particular of metal fatty acid soaps having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The metal soap metal may in particular be zinc or magnesium.

As the metal soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used. ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid; iii) N-acyl amino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group; The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.

Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as, for example, stearoyl glutamate. 'aluminum. This is for example the NAI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi. iv) lecithin and its derivatives such as hydrogenated lecithin such as the HLC surface treatment marketed by LCW; v) triisostearyl isopropyl titanate; By way of examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium tri isostearate (ITT), mention may be made of those sold under the trade reference BWBO-12 (Iran oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-12 (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl). titanium triisostearate), and BWRO-12 (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by KOBO. vi) isostearyl sebacate; (vii) natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes; viii) fatty esters, in particular by jojoba esters; ix) phospholipids; and x) their mixtures.

The waxes mentioned in the compounds mentioned above may be those generally used in the cosmetics field, as defined below.

They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

The term "polar wax" means a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; it may be for example an alcohol, ester, carboxylic acid group. Polyester waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, Fisher-Tropsch waxes are not included in the polar waxes.

In particular, polar waxes have a mean solubility parameter δa of Hansen at 25 ° C such that δa> 0 (J / cm3) 172 and better δa> 1 (J / cm3) 172:

where δρ and 5h are respectively the polar and interaction-specific contributions to Hansen's solubility parameters.

The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by CM HANSEN, "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967): 5h characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); δρ characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

The parameters δρ and ôh are expressed in (J / cm3) 172

A polar wax consists in particular of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P). By way of non-limiting illustration of these polar waxes, mention may be made especially of natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and insect waxes. China, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, japanese wax and sumach wax, montan wax.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated with at least one compound chosen from N-acylamino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; hydrogenated lecithin, fatty esters; and their mixtures.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or a salt thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, especially a stearoyl glutamate. such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, use will be made of hydrophobic modified pigments selected from titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example sold under the reference NAI by MIYOSHI KASEI.

The pigments coated with at least one hydrophobic compound are present in a composition of the invention in a proportion ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 8% to 15%.

More particularly, the composition is an aqueous gel, an emulsion such as an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises at least water and may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at ambient temperature of 20 ° -25 ° C.), for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol. isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; , and their mixtures.

A water that is suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

The overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, is preferably present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 98%, 5% to 95%, better 15% to 80% by weight, preferably 25% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

ACID

According to a preferred form of the invention, the compositions additionally comprise at least one organic or inorganic acid.

This acid may be chosen from lactic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, and phosphoric acid.

This acid is preferably lactic acid. The acid present in the composition according to the invention must be present in an amount sufficient for said composition to have a pH of less than 10.

Preferably, the pH of the composition may be between 4 and 9.5.

More preferably, the pH of the composition may be between 5 and 9. The acid may in particular be present in the composition at a content of between 0.1 and 5% by weight, preferably at a content of between 0.5 and 3% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

NON-IONIC HYDROPHILIC GELIIFYING AGENT

In order to improve the stability of the compositions, according to a preferred form of the invention, the compositions additionally comprise at least one hydrophilic nonionic gelling agent.

The term "hydrophilic nonionic gelling agent" in the sense of the present invention, a compound having an ionic group capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The gelling agent according to the invention is hydrophilic and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

The hydrophilic nonionic gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible. The hydrophilic nonionic gelling agent may be chosen from natural or naturally occurring polymeric gelling agents, synthetic polymeric gelling agents, and their natural or naturally occurring polymeric / gelling mixtures.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression "of natural origin" means polymeric gelling agents obtained by modifying natural polymeric gelling agents.

Among the natural or naturally occurring polymeric gelling agents, mention may be made of starch polysaccharides and non-starch polysaccharides.

Amylaceous Polysaccharides Representative non-ionic starch polysaccharides may be particularly mentioned, native starches and nonionic modified starches

Native starches

The starches which can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose (dextrose) units, linked by α (1,4) bonds, of chemical formula (CeH-ioOsV The number of these The motifs and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose, a molecule formed from about 600 to 1000 molecules of linearly-linked glucose, and amylopectin, a branched polymer around every 25 glucose residues (α-linkage). The starch is described in particular in "KIRK-OTHMER ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY, 3rd edition, Volume 21, pages 492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983".

The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the botanical origin of the starches. On average, a sample of native starch consists of about 25% amylose and 75% amylopectin.

Sometimes, there is presence of phytoglycogen (between 0% and 20% of the starch), an analogue of amylopectin but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues. The starch can be in the form of semi-crystalline granules: amylopectin is organized in sheets, amylose forms a less well-organized amorphous zone between the different layers. Amyloidosis is organized into a right helix with six glucoses per turn. It dissociates into assimilable glucose under the action of enzymes, amylases, more easily if it is in the form of amylopectin. Indeed, helical formation does not promote the accessibility of starch to enzymes.

The starches are generally in the form of a white powder insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles ranges from 3 to 100 microns.

By treating it with hot water, we obtain the poisoning. It is used in the industry for its thickener and gelling properties.

The starch molecules used in the present invention may have as botanical origin cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are for example chosen from starches of maize, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea.

The native starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C * Amilogel ™, Cargill Gel ™, C * Gel ™, Cargill Gum ™, Dry Gel ™, C * Pharm Gel ™ by the company Cargill, under the name Amidon de mais by Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.

Modified starches

The modified starches used in the composition of the invention may be modified by one or more of the following reactions: pre-gelatinization, degradation (acid hydrolysis, oxidation, dextrinization), substitution (esterification, etherification), crosslinking (esterification), bleaching.

More particularly, these reactions can be carried out as follows: pre-gelatinization by bursting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum); - acid hydrolysis resulting in a very rapid retrogressive cooling; dextrinisation in an acid medium at high temperature (hydrolysis then repolymerization); crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups); alkaline esterification for the grafting of functional groups, especially C1-C6 acyl (acetyl), hydroxyalkyl C1-C6 (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl, octenylsuccinic.

In particular, it is possible to obtain, by means of crosslinking with phosphorus compounds, mono-starch phosphates (of the Am-0-P0- (OX) 2 type), diamidon phosphates (of the Am-0-PO- (OX) -O-Am type). ) or even triamidon (of the type Am-0-P0- (O-Am) 2) or mixtures thereof. X denotes in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-aminopropanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.

The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

The starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch such as, in particular, corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above.

It is preferable to use diamidon phosphates or compounds rich in diamidon phosphate, in particular the hydroxypropyl ethers of diamidon phosphate, INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, such as the products sold under the trade names FARINEX VA70 C® or Farmal MS 689®. the company AVEBE Stadex; products sold under the trade names STRUCTURE BTC®, STRUCTURE HVS®, STRUCTURE XL® or STRUCTURE ZEA® by NATIONAL STARCH (cornstarch phosphate).

Non-amylated polysaccharides Representative non-starch non-starch polysaccharides may be particularly mentioned, namely non-ionic celluloses and their derivatives, nonionic galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives, in particular the non-ionic polysaccharides. hydroxypropyl guar, and Tara gums.

Nonionic cellulose and derivatives

Cellulosic compound is understood to mean, according to the invention, any polysaccharide compound having in its structure linear chains of anhydroglucopyranose (AGU) residues united by β (1,4) glycosidic linkages. The repetition pattern is the cellobiose dimer. The AGUs are in chair conformation and have 3 hydroxyl functions: 2 secondary alcohols (in position 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (in position 6). The polymers thus formed combine with each other by intermolecular links of the hydrogen bonding type, thus conferring a fibrillar structure on the cellulose (approximately 1500 molecules per fiber).

The degree of polymerization differs enormously depending on the origin of the cellulose; its value can vary from a few hundred to a few tens of thousands.

Cellulose has the following chemical structure:

The hydroxyl groups of the cellulose may partially or totally react with different chemical reagents to give cellulose derivatives having their own properties. The cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these derivatives, there are cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

Among the nonionic celluloses, mention may be made of celluloses or one of its derivatives, in particular ethers or cellulose.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcellulose celluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

Among the nonionic celluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, and more particularly hydroxypropylcellulose, will be used in particular. hydroxyethylcellulose and even more particularly hydroxyethylcellulose.

Nonionic galactomannans

Galactomannans are nonionic polysaccharides extracted from the albumen of leguminous seeds of which they constitute the reserve carbohydrate.

Galactomannans are macromolecules consisting of a main chain of β (1,4) -linked D-mannopyranose units, bearing lateral branches consisting of a single unit D-galactopyranose linked in a (1,6) to the chain main. The different galactomannans are distinguished on the one hand by the proportion of α-D-galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and on the other hand by significant differences in terms of distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain.

The mannose / galactose ratio (M / G) is of the order of 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum and 4 for locust bean gum.

Galactomannans have the following chemical structure:

Among the nonionic galactomannans that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of nonionic guar gums and Tora gums.

Guar gums are characterized by a mannose: galactose ratio of the order of 2: 1. The galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain.

The nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention can be chemically modified or unmodified.

The unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH®, Vidogum G® and Vidocrem® by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name VISCOGUMTM® by Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by Aqualon.

The hydrolyzed nonionic guar gums that can be used according to the invention are for example represented by the products sold under the name Meyprodor® by Danisco.

The modified nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified with hydroxyC 1 -C 6 groups, among which, by way of example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups may be mentioned.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP 60®, Jaguar HP 105® and Jaguar HP 120® (hydroxypropyl guar), by the company Rhodia, or under the name N-Hance® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by AQUALON.

Among the nonionic galactomannans, mention may also be made in particular of Tara gums, such as the commercial product sold under the name Solagum Tara 38553F® by the company SEPPIC.

Among the galactomannans, Tora gums will be used more particularly. II. Synthetic polymeric gelling agents

For the purposes of the invention, the term synthetic means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor derived from a polymer of natural origin.

As is apparent from the following, the polymeric nonionic hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from nonionic associative polymers and in particular nonionic associative polymers of the polyurethane type.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers according to the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from: copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers; copolymers of methacrylates or of C 1 -C 6 alkyl acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain; copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; associative polyurethanes.

The associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic sequences most often of polyoxyethylenated nature (the polyurethanes may then be called polyurethane polyethers) and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic chains alone and / or or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.

In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from Ce to C30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The associative polyurethanes can be sequenced in the form of triblock or multiblock. The hydrophobic sequences may therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These polymers may also be graft or star.

Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylenated groups. In general, the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

According to a preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of the polyurethane type is used as a gelling agent. As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate® FX 1100 (Steareth-100 / PEG 136 / HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) copolymer), Rheolate® 205 to urea function sold by Elementis or the Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol® RM 184 or Acrysol® RM 2020.

Non-ionic fatty-chain polyether polyurethanes, especially Steareth-100 / PEG 136 / HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) Copolymer marketed for example under the trade name Rhéolate® FX 1100 by Elementis, are preferably used.

Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos® T210 with a C12-C14 alkyl chain and the product Elfacos® T212 with a C16-18 alkyl chain (PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate) from Akzo.

The product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas C20 alkyl chain and urethane bond, proposed at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers, mention may be made of Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Elementis. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J proposed by Rohm & Haas.

The associative polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

More particularly still, according to the invention, it is also possible to use an associative polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn® 46 and Aculyn® 44. Aculyn 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl) isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / STEARYL ALCOHOL / SMDI COPOLYMER, and Aculyn® 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / DECYL ALCOHOL / SMDI COPOLYMER.)

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers, mention may be made of the SER AD FX1010, the SER AD FX1035® and the SER AD 1070® from Elementis, the Rheolate® 255, the Rheolate® 278 and the Rheolate® 244 sold by the Company. Elementis company. Aculyn® 44, Aculyn® 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J products, as well as Acrysol® RM 184® from Rohm & Haas, or the Borchi Gel LW 44® from Borchers, and their mixtures.

It is also possible to use Polyurethane-39 which is a copolymer of PEG-140 and hexamethylene diisocyanate with the polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols C12-14 Pareth-10, C16-18 Pareth-11, and C18-20 Pareth-11 as the prouduit commercial sold under the name LUVIGEL STAR® by BASF.

According to a preferred embodiment, the associative polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polymers and more particularly from associative polyurethanes, such as LUVIGEL STAR® (INCI name: POLYURETHANE-39, Aculyn 46® (INCI name: PEG -150 / STEARYL ALCOHOL / SMDI COPOLYMER) and Aculyn® 44 (INCI name: PEG-150 / DECYL ALCOHOL / SMDI COPOLYMER.)

Among the hydrophilic nonionic gelling agents, use will be made more particularly of those chosen from hydroxypropyl ethers of diamidon phosphate, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, Tora gums, associative polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof, and even more particularly chosen from hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and hydroxyethylcellulose. , Tara gums, Polyurethane-39 and mixtures thereof.

The hydrophilic nonionic gelling agent is advantageously used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 10% by weight of dry matter and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

According to one particular form of the invention, the composition comprises: a) at least one aqueous phase, and b) at least one hydrophobic coated pigment chosen from titanium dioxides and / or iron oxides, coated with stearoyl glutamate. aluminum, and c) 3-aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES). d) optionally at least one organic or inorganic acid, preferably lactic acid. e) optionally at least one hydrophilic nonionic gelling agent, preferably chosen from hydroxypropyl ethers of diamidon phosphate, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, Tora gums, associative polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof, and even more particularly chosen from hydroxypropyl starch Phosphate hydroxyethylcellulose, Tara gums, Polyurethane-39 and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the composition is an aqueous gel, an emulsion such as an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.

GALENIC FORMS

The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of an aqueous gel or in the form of an emulsion, such as an oil-in-water emulsion (continuous aqueous phase in which an oily phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to obtain an macroscopically homogeneous mixture) or a water-in-oil emulsion (continuous oily phase in which an aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture).

In the case where the composition is in emulsion form, it generally comprises one or more emulsifying surfactants, preferably nonionic surfactants.

For emulsifiers, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O / W emulsions. The HLB or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the surfactant (s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method; HLB is the ratio of the hydrophilic portion to the lipophilic moiety in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in The HLB System. A Time-saving Guide to Emulsifying Selection "(published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).

The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

As examples of W / O emulsifying surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the company Dow Corning, and the alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name " Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid "by Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company

Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name AB IL WE 09® by the company Goldschmidt. It is also possible to add one or more coemulsifiers, which advantageously may be chosen from the group comprising the alkylated polyol esters.

Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugar ethers.

Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.

Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34® by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of emulsifying polyoxyalkylenated elastomeric silicones, such as those mentioned in documents US-A-5,236,986, US-A-5,412,004, US-A-5,837,793 and US-A-5,811,487. These elastomeric silicones are preferably formulated in the form of a gel in a hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylenated elastomeric silicone is often in the form of spherical particles. By way of example of polyoxyalkylenated elastomer silicone, mention may be made of those sold by the company Shin ETSU with the following denominations: - KSG-21® (27% active ingredient) by INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer - KSG-20® (95% by weight active ingredient) INCI name: PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer), - KSG-30® (100% active ingredient) INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-31® (25% active ingredient) INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-32® or KSG-42 or KSG-320 or KSG- 30 (at 25% by weight of active ingredient) INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-33® (at 20% active ingredient), - KSG-210® (at 25% by weight) active) of INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer), - KSG-310®: lauryl polydimethylsiloxane polyoxyethylenated in mineral oil, - KSG-330®, - KSG-340®, - X-226146® ( at 32%% active ingredient) of INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),

Mention may also be made of those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names: DC9010® (9% inactive material) of INCI name: PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer) - DC9011® at 11% of active ingredient.

Among the water / oil emulsifiers, mention may also be made of polyglycerolated elastomer silicones such as those described in document WO-A-2004/024798. As examples of elastomeric silicones, mention may be made of those sold by the company Shin Etsu, with the following trade names: - KSG-710® (25% active ingredient) with INCI name: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer), - KSG-810®, - KSG-820®, - KSG-830®, - KSG-840®,

In a particularly preferred form, the water-in-oil emulsifier Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer sold under the tradename KSG-210 of SHIN ETSU will be used.

For the O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters and / or anhydrides of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; esters of sugar and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, sugar ethers and C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

As glycerol ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate of polyethylene glycol), and more especially polyethylene glycol 40 OE monostearate (CTFA name). PEG-40 stearate), polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use mixtures of these surfactants, for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name ARLACEL 165® by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (mono-distearate). glyceryl) and potassium stearate, sold under the name TEGIN® by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

As fatty alcohol ethers, mention may be made, for example, of ethers of polyethylene glycol and of fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as ethers of polyethylene glycol and of Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols). For example, ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated groups, such as CTFA Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof, may be mentioned.

Mention may be made, by way of examples of mono or polyalkyl esters or sugar ethers, of the methylglucose isostearate sold under the name Isolan-IS® by the company Degussa Goldschmidt or the sucrose distearate sold under the name Crodesta F50® by the company. Croda, and the sucrose stearate marketed under the trademark Ryoto sugar ester S 1570® by Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods. ; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, especially alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearylglucoside mixed with alcohol cetostearyl, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68® by the company Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside sold under the name Montanov 202® by the company Seppic.

Other examples of emulsifying nonionic surfactants for O / W emulsions include polydimethylsiloxanes comprising

both oxyethylenated groups and oxypropylene groups such as polydimethylsiloxane polyoxyethylenated and polyoxypropylenated in the form of a mixture with caprylic / capric triglycerides sold under the trade name ABIL CARE 85® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (INCI name: BIS-PEG / PPG-16 / 16 PEG / PPG-16/16 DIMETHICONE / CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE)

It is also possible to use, in O / W emulsions, surfactants having a low HLB of 3 to 8, in particular POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE (Lameform TGI®) or POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (Dehymuls PGPH®).

According to one particular form of the invention, when the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen will be used: (i) those comprising a fatty chain in the form of a compound PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate PEG-40 stearate; stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, cetostearylglucoside mixed with cetostearyl alcohol. (ii) polydimethylsiloxanes comprising both oxyethylenated groups and oxypropylene groups, in particular BIS-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG-16/16 DIMETHICONE / CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE; (iii) HLB surfactants from 3 to 8, in particular POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE or POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (Dehymuls PGPH®); (iv) their mixtures.

The emulsions according to the present invention comprise at least one oily phase.

OIL PHASE

The emulsions according to the invention contain at least one immiscible organic liquid phase in water called the oily phase. This generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds which render said phase immiscible in water. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.). Preferably, the immiscible organic liquid phase in water according to the invention generally comprises at least one volatile oil and / or a non-volatile oil.

By "oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). . The oil may be chosen from all the oils, which are preferably physiologically acceptable, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable and synthetic oils; in particular volatile and / or nonvolatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.

More precisely, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably 100 to 300,000 mPa.s. By way of example of volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular the originated Οδ-Ο-ιβ isoalkanes oil (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls branched enδ-ΟΙβ esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application by Cognis DE10 2008 012 457. volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity <8 centistokes (8 10-6 m2 / s), and having in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally having alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of caprylyl methicone, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane and octamethyl. trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof. As an example of a nonvolatile oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of caprylic acids / capric such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane; synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicapylyl ether; synthetic esters, especially of fatty acids, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, isdecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; carbonates, such as dicapryl carbonate; - acetates; - citrates; fluorinated oils that may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847752; silicone oils, such as non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular form of the invention, to improve comfort on application and to avoid a greasy effect on the skin, the composition is an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion in which the oily phase comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably at least one volatile silicone oil, and more particularly chosen from dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylylmethicone.

According to one particular form of the invention, the overall oily phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

CHARGE

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or inorganic nature, which makes it possible, in particular, to impart to them additional properties of mattness, coverage, strength and / or improved stability.

By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to makeup.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the process. composition.

Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass microcapsules or ceramic, composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass.

According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mica as a filler.

Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned are polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, polymethylmethacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), hexamethylene diisocyanate / Trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Toshiki Plastic Powder), resin microbeads silicone (Toshiba Tospearl, for example) synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, sodium stearate; zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), powder cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793, polyurethane powders, in particular cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof.

additives

A composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example selected from gums, resins, dispersing agents, polymers, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes , neutralizers, antiseptic agents, UV protective agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectors, and mixtures thereof.

It falls within the routine operations of those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not affected. The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented hereinafter. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass.

EXAMPLES

In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given in% by weight / total weight of the composition.

Examples 1 to 3: Foundation in the form of an aqueous gel

After completion of the aqueous Rayneri gel, the APTES was introduced with stirring at room temperature (20-25 ° C), the acid was then introduced. After a few minutes the pigments were introduced.

A perfectly homogeneous aqueous gel was obtained with a good dispersion in water of the hydrophobic pigments. These gels have a good homogeneous coverage on the surface of the skin.

Examples 3 and 4: Oil-in-water emulsion foundation

The ingredients have been grouped into different phases. Each phase was weighed separately and then introduced according to the following protocol.

The aqueous phase (B) was mixed with Moritz at 1500 rpm in a water bath for 15 minutes. Fatty phase (A) was heated to 70 ° C and stirred with Rayneri at 500 rpm for 15min. After phase A and B at 70 ° C, phase A was introduced into phase B and the emulsion was stirred at 4500 rpm for 10 minutes in a water bath.

The mixture was then stirred at 1800 rpm at room temperature (20-25 ° C) for 15 minutes. The APTES solution (C) was added to the mixture which was then stirred with Rayneri at 500 rpm for 10 min. The pigments, in the form of a pigment paste, are added and the formula is stirred with Rayneri at 1300 rpm for 40 minutes.

Each of compositions 4 and 5 was compared to an identical control formulation but containing in phase C: APTES and lactic acid.

The formulas 3 and 4 applied on the skin are more covering and more homogeneous than the control formula.

EXAMPLE 5 Oil-in-Water Emulsion Foundation

The ingredients have been grouped into different phases. Each phase was weighed separately and then introduced according to the following protocol.

The aqueous phase (B) was mixed with Moritz at 1500 rpm in a water bath at 70 ° C for 15min (The formation of the Hydroxyethylcellulose gel took place in 5 minutes). Fatty phase (A) was heated to 70 ° C and stirred with Rayneri at 500 rpm for 15min. Once phases A and B at 70 ° C, phase A was introduced into phase B and the emulsion stirred at 4500 rpm for 10 minutes in a water bath. The mixture was then stirred at 1800 rpm at room temperature for 15 minutes. The APTES solution (C) was added to the mixture which was then stirred with Rayneri at 500 rpm for 10 min. Pigments in the form of pigment paste were added and the Rayneri stirred at 1300 rpm for 40 minutes.

The composition was compared to an identical control formulation but containing in phase C: APTES and lactic acid.

The formula 5 applied to the skin is more covering and more homogeneous than the control formula

Example 6: Foundation of complexion in water-in-oil emulsion

Phase B2 with APTES was partially prepared: only water and lactic acid were weighed, the APTES was added later. Phase A1 was mixed with Raynerie for 20 minutes at 400 rpm. Phase A2 was added to Moritz at 1000 rpm for 30min. Phase A3 was added, 1600 rpm for about 5 minutes. The APTES was added in phase B2, then phase B2 was added to phase B1. Phase B was added while increasing the speed for the emulsion to be done (4500 rpm). Everything was stirred for 15 minutes.

Composition 6 was compared to an identical control formulation but containing in phase C: APTES and lactic acid.

Formula 6 applied to the skin is more covering and more homogeneous than the control formula

Claims (16)

A composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, comprising: a) at least one aqueous phase, and b) at least one hydrophobic coated pigment, and c) at least one organosilane of the following formula (I) and / or one of its oligomers: (I) wherein: R4 is halogen, OR 'or R'1; Rs represents a halogen, a group OR "or R'2; Rq represents a halogen, a group OR '' or R'3; R 1, R 2, R 3, R ', R ", R'", R '1, R' 2, R '3 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group optionally bearing groups additional chemical groups such as acidic or amine groups, wherein R 1, R 2, R ', R "and R'" may further denote hydrogen, and at least two of R 4, R 5 and R 5 being different from R 'groups 1, R'2 and R's. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the groups R 1, R 2, R ', R' 1, R '2, R' 3, R "and R '" are chosen from the alkyl radicals of C 1 -C 12, aryl from C5 to C10, (C1-C8) alkyl of C5 to C16 aryl and (C5-C14) aryl of C1 to C6 alkyl. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the R3 groups are chosen from C1-C12 alkylene radicals, optionally substituted by an amino group, C5-C14 arylene, C5-C14 alkylene (C1-C8) arylene, and arylene (C5-Cu) C1-C8 alkylene. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the organosilane of formula (I) is chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane and / or their oligomers, as well as mixtures thereof. 5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the organosilane is 3-aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES). 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the organosilane (s) of formula (I) and / or one of its or their oligomers are present in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 10%. % by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the hydrophobic coated pigment is selected from hydrophobic modified mineral pigments and particularly hydrophobic modified pigments of iron oxide and / or titanium oxide. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the hydrophobic coated pigment is coated with at least one compound selected N-acyl amino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; hydrogenated lecithin, fatty esters; and mixtures thereof, more particularly chosen from N-acyl amino acids or their salts, and even more particularly aluminum stearoyl glutamate. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the hydrophobic coated pigment is selected from titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one organic or inorganic acid, preferably selected from lactic acid, acetic acid, citric acid. , tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, and phosphoric acid, and more particularly lactic acid. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one hydrophilic nonionic gelling agent, preferably chosen from natural or naturally occurring polymeric gelling agents, gelling agents. synthetic polymers, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from hydroxypropyl ethers of diamidon phosphate, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, Tora gums, associative polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, hydroxyethylcellulose and tora gums, Polyurethane-39 and their mixtures .. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is in the form of an aqueous gel or emulsion, said emulsion preferably being an oil-in-water emulsion or an emulsion. water-in-oil. 13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that it is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from: (i) those comprising a C18 fatty chain, in particular chosen from the mixture PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-40 stearate; cetostearylglucoside mixed with cetostearyl alcohol. (ii) polydimethylsiloxanes comprising both oxyethylenated groups and oxypropylene groups, in particular BIS-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG-16/16 DIMETHICONE / CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE; (iii) HLB surfactants from 3 to 8, in particular POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE or POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (Dehymuls PGPH®); (iv) their mixtures. 14. Composition according to Claim 12 or 13, characterized in that it is an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion and that the oily phase contains at least one volatile oil, in particular at least one silicone oil. , volatile, in particular chosen from dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, caprylylmethicone. 15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it is a foundation. 16. A process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition as defined according to US Pat. any one of claims 1 to 15.