FR2993777A1 - PHOTO-PROTECTIVE COMPOSITION - Google Patents
PHOTO-PROTECTIVE COMPOSITION Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2993777A1 FR2993777A1 FR1257186A FR1257186A FR2993777A1 FR 2993777 A1 FR2993777 A1 FR 2993777A1 FR 1257186 A FR1257186 A FR 1257186A FR 1257186 A FR1257186 A FR 1257186A FR 2993777 A1 FR2993777 A1 FR 2993777A1
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- oil
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- polyester
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 80
- 230000003711 photoprotective effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 14
- 244000037433 Pongamia pinnata Species 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- 235000004599 Pongamia pinnata Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 239000000539 dimer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 19
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- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 230000006378 damage Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 51
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 claims description 51
- 150000001335 aliphatic alkanes Chemical class 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 11
- -1 fatty acid esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 claims description 6
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- LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octyldodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCCCC LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N Linoleic acid Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- 150000002762 monocarboxylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 abstract description 5
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- BANXPJUEBPWEOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methyl-Pentadecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C BANXPJUEBPWEOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicon Chemical group [Si] XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- NRTKYSGFUISGRQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (3-heptanoyloxy-2,2-dimethylpropyl) heptanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)(C)COC(=O)CCCCCC NRTKYSGFUISGRQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 239000010475 evening primrose oil Substances 0.000 description 1
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- NLMOQNHZOQGLSZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N heptyl undec-10-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCC=C NLMOQNHZOQGLSZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940086561 heptyl undecylenate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- SFFVATKALSIZGN-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-7-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC SFFVATKALSIZGN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UQEAIHBTYFGYIE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexamethyldisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C UQEAIHBTYFGYIE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XXMIOPMDWAUFGU-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,6-diol Chemical compound OCCCCCCO XXMIOPMDWAUFGU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RQSINLZXJXXKOH-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexyl 2,2-dimethylpropanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)(C)C RQSINLZXJXXKOH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940100463 hexyl laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000399 hydroalcoholic extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920006270 hydrocarbon resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920006007 hydrogenated polyisobutylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000005984 hydrogenation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000001261 hydroxy acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 1
- 238000001727 in vivo Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002917 insecticide Substances 0.000 description 1
- VKPSKYDESGTTFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N isododecane Natural products CC(C)(C)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C VKPSKYDESGTTFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940100554 isononyl isononanoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N isooleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KUVMKLCGXIYSNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopentadecane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C KUVMKLCGXIYSNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JMMWKPVZQRWMSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropanol acetate Natural products CC(C)OC(C)=O JMMWKPVZQRWMSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940011051 isopropyl acetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GWYFCOCPABKNJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N isovaleric acid Chemical compound CC(C)CC(O)=O GWYFCOCPABKNJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940119170 jojoba wax Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000021374 legumes Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010469 macadamia oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010445 mica Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052618 mica group Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000013336 milk Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008267 milk Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 230000021332 multicellular organism growth Effects 0.000 description 1
- JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Triacontane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- JMFMMOJGRYVJMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N octan-3-yl 2,2-dimethylpropanoate Chemical compound CCCCCC(CC)OC(=O)C(C)(C)C JMFMMOJGRYVJMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GYGAZRPDUOHMAF-KHPPLWFESA-N oleyl acetate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOC(C)=O GYGAZRPDUOHMAF-KHPPLWFESA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002540 palm oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N palmitic acid group Chemical group C(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)(=O)O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940057874 phenyl trimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000008845 photoaging Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003495 polar organic solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003229 poly(methyl methacrylate) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920006122 polyamide resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001083 polybutene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004926 polymethyl methacrylate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001451 polypropylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- IHWPQGIYXJKCOV-UHFFFAOYSA-N pongamol Natural products C1=CC=2OC=CC=2C(OC)=C1C(=O)C=C(O)C1=CC=CC=C1 IHWPQGIYXJKCOV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940035652 propanediol dicaprylate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003223 protective agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000008159 sesame oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011803 sesame oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- LIVNPJMFVYWSIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon monoxide Inorganic materials [Si-]#[O+] LIVNPJMFVYWSIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920002050 silicone resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002379 silicone rubber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011780 sodium chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003784 tall oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[phenyl-bis(trimethylsilyloxy)silyl]oxysilane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](O[Si](C)(C)C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)C1=CC=CC=C1 LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- RNWHGQJWIACOKP-UHFFFAOYSA-N zinc;oxygen(2-) Chemical class [O-2].[Zn+2] RNWHGQJWIACOKP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/85—Polyesters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
La présente invention concerne une composition photo-protectrice renfermant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, une huile de karanja et au moins un polyester issu de la réaction entre (i) un dimère d'acide carboxylique en C -C , (ii) au moins un polyol et (iii) éventuellement au moins un monoalcool en C -C et/ou au moins un acide monocarboxylique en C -C . Elle concerne également l'utilisation de cette composition pour prévenir les dommages de la peau et/ou des cheveux dus aux UV. Elle concerne enfin un mélange constitué d'huile de karanja et du polyester précité, destiné à la fabrication d'une composition photoprotectrice.The present invention relates to a photoprotective composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a karanja oil and at least one polyester resulting from the reaction between (i) a C -C -carboxylic acid dimer, (ii) at least one a polyol and (iii) optionally at least one C -C 8 monohydric alcohol and / or at least one C -C monocarboxylic acid. It also relates to the use of this composition to prevent damage to the skin and / or hair due to UV. Finally, it relates to a mixture of karanja oil and the aforementioned polyester, for the manufacture of a photoprotective composition.
Description
Composition photo-protectrice La présente invention concerne une composition photo-protectrice renfermant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, une huile de karanja et au moins un polyester issu de la réaction entre (i) un dimère d'acide carboxylique en CH-C", (ii) au moins un polyol et (iii) éventuellement au moins un monoalcool en C8-C32 et/ou au moins un acide monocarboxylique en C8-C36.The present invention relates to a photoprotective composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a karanja oil and at least one polyester resulting from the reaction between (i) a CH-C "carboxylic acid dimer, (ii) at least one polyol and (iii) optionally at least one C8-C32 monoalcohol and / or at least one C8-C36 monocarboxylic acid.
Elle concerne également l'utilisation de cette composition pour prévenir les dommages de la peau et/ou des cheveux dus aux UV. Elle concerne enfin un mélange constitué d'huile de karanja et du polyester précité, destiné à la fabrication d'une composition photo- protectrice. Le karanja est une légumineuse originaire d'Asie. L'huile de karanja, qui est extraite des graines, est utilisée, dans la pharmacopée ayurvédique, pour les soins de la peau et des cheveux, en particulier pour ses propriétés antiseptiques et antiparasitaires, ainsi que dans le traitement de l'eczéma, du psoriasis et des maladies du cuir chevelu. Elle est également utilisée comme insecticide.It also relates to the use of this composition to prevent damage to the skin and / or hair due to UV. Finally, it relates to a mixture of karanja oil and the aforementioned polyester, for the manufacture of a photoprotective composition. Karanja is a legume native to Asia. Karanja oil, which is extracted from the seeds, is used, in the Ayurvedic pharmacopoeia, for the care of the skin and the hair, in particular for its antiseptic and antiparasitic properties, as well as in the treatment of the eczema, the psoriasis and scalp diseases. It is also used as an insecticide.
D'autres applications karanja sont indiquées dans particulier son utilisation cosmétiques de l'huile de la demande FR 2 762 008, en dans des crèmes hydratantes ou anti-rides. On la retrouve ainsi dans la composition de différents produits cosmétiques sur le marché, y compris des produits solaires.Other karanja applications are indicated in particular its cosmetic use of the oil of the application FR 2 762 008, in moisturizing or anti-wrinkle creams. It is found in the composition of various cosmetic products on the market, including solar products.
Les inventeurs ont découvert, de façon inattendue, que l'association de l'huile de karanja avec un polyester particulier permettait d'augmenter le FPS ou Facteur de Protection Solaire des compositions renfermant cette huile. Ils ont démontré qu'il était ainsi possible de formuler une composition photo-protectrice à base d'huile de karanja ayant un FPS supérieur à 30, y compris des formulations anhydres de type huile solaire qui sont particulièrement recherchées du fait de leur application facile et agréable sur la peau et de leur bonne résistance à l'eau, mais qui ne permettent pas, en général, d'atteindre des FPS supérieurs à 20.The inventors have discovered, unexpectedly, that the combination of karanja oil with a particular polyester makes it possible to increase the SPF or Sun Protection Factor of the compositions containing this oil. They have demonstrated that it is thus possible to formulate a photo-protective composition based on karanja oil having an SPF greater than 30, including anhydrous formulations of the solar oil type which are particularly sought after because of their easy application and pleasant on the skin and their good resistance to water, but which do not, in general, to achieve SPF greater than 20.
La présente invention a ainsi pour objet une composition photo-protectrice renfermant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, une huile de karanja et au moins un polyester issu de la réaction entre (i) un dimère d'acide carboxylique en C20-C44, (ii) au moins un polyol et (iii) éventuellement au moins un monoalcool en C8-C32 et/ou au moins un acide monocarboxylique en C8-C36. Elle a également pour objet un mélange constitué d'huile de karanja et du polyester précité, ainsi que son utilisation pour fabriquer une composition photo-protectrice. La composition selon l'invention permet de conférer à la peau une bonne protection contre les rayonnements UV, en particulier d'obtenir un FPS d'au moins 20, mieux, d'au moins 30, voire d'au moins 50, y compris une protection efficace contre les UVA, à l'aide d'ingrédients cosmétiques qui peuvent être pour au moins 90% en poids d'origine végétale. Elle présente en outre avantageusement une bonne rémanence à l'eau, un aspect transparent ou translucide, un caractère émollient et un toucher glissant sans collant. A titre préliminaire, on notera que, dans la description et les revendications suivantes, l'expression "compris entre" doit s'entendre comme incluant les bornes citées. Les constituants de la composition selon l'invention seront à présent décrits plus en détail.The subject of the present invention is thus a photo-protective composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a karanja oil and at least one polyester resulting from the reaction between (i) a C20-C44 carboxylic acid dimer, (ii) ) at least one polyol and (iii) optionally at least one C8-C32 monoalcohol and / or at least one C8-C36 monocarboxylic acid. It also relates to a mixture of karanja oil and the aforementioned polyester, and its use to make a photo-protective composition. The composition according to the invention makes it possible to give the skin good protection against UV radiation, in particular to obtain an SPF of at least 20, better still at least 30, or even at least 50, including effective protection against UVA, using cosmetic ingredients that can be at least 90% by weight of plant origin. It also advantageously has good water retention, a transparent or translucent appearance, an emollient character and a slippery touch without stickiness. As a preliminary matter, it should be noted that in the following description and claims, the expression "between" should be understood to include the cited boundaries. The constituents of the composition according to the invention will now be described in more detail.
Huile de karanja Par "huile de karanja" on entend selon l'invention, une fraction insoluble dans l'eau, extraite des graines de karanja, qui contient majoritairement des triglycérides d'acides gras. Habituellement, elle renferme également des acides gras libres en quantité tels que l'acidité de l'huile (exprimée en grammes d'acide oléique libre pour 100g d'huile) est comprise entre 5 et 10, et généralement de 0,5 à 4% en poids d'insaponifiables tels que la karanjine et le pongamol qui sont des furano-flavones. L'huile de karanja renferme essentiellement des triglycérides d'acides oléique et linoléique et, en plus faible quantité, d'acides palmitique, stéarique, linolénique, arachidique et béhénique. Cette huile peut être obtenue par pression à froid des graines de karanja, suivant des procédés bien connus de l'homme du métier et classiquement mis en oeuvre pour obtenir d'autres huiles végétales. Elle est utilisée telle quelle après désodorisation suivant un procédé de traitement à la vapeur sous vide et sous azote (tel que celui décrit dans le document FR 2 762 008), sans la soumettre à une ou plusieurs extractions à l'aide de solvants organiques polaires et/ou apolaires. L'huile de karanja utilisée selon l'invention se distingue ainsi des extraits alcooliques et hydro-alcooliques de graines de karanja. Par "karanja", on entend dans cette description la plante encore désignée par les appellations botaniques suivantes : Pongamia pinnata, Pongamia glabra, Millettia pinnata, Derris indica et Gadelupa pinnata. La composition selon l'invention peut par exemple renfermer de 1 à 60% en poids, de préférence de 5 à 50% en poids, mieux, de 15 à 30% en poids, d'huile de karanja, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Le mélange utilisé pour la fabrication de cette composition peut par exemple renfermer de 50 à 80% en poids, et de préférence de 60 à 70% en poids, d'huile de karanja.Karanja oil By "karanja oil" is meant according to the invention, a water-insoluble fraction, extracted from karanja seeds, which contains mainly triglycerides of fatty acids. Usually, it also contains free fatty acids in an amount such that the acidity of the oil (expressed in grams of free oleic acid per 100 g of oil) is between 5 and 10, and generally from 0.5 to 4 % by weight of unsaponifiables such as karanjine and pongamol which are furano-flavones. The karanja oil contains mainly triglycerides of oleic and linoleic acids and, in smaller quantities, palmitic, stearic, linolenic, arachidic and behenic acids. This oil can be obtained by cold pressing karanja seeds, according to methods well known to those skilled in the art and conventionally used to obtain other vegetable oils. It is used as it is after deodorization according to a method of steam treatment under vacuum and under nitrogen (such as that described in document FR 2 762 008), without subjecting it to one or more extractions using polar organic solvents. and / or apolar. The karanja oil used according to the invention thus differs from the alcoholic and hydro-alcoholic extracts of karanja seeds. By "karanja" is meant in this description the plant still designated by the following botanical names: Pongamia pinnata, Pongamia glabra, Millettia pinnata, Derris indica and Gadelupa pinnata. The composition according to the invention may, for example, contain from 1 to 60% by weight, preferably from 5 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, of karanja oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. The mixture used for the manufacture of this composition may for example contain from 50 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 60 to 70% by weight, of karanja oil.
Polyester Le polyester utilisé selon l'invention est issu de la réaction entre (i) un dimère d'acide carboxylique en CH-C", (ii) au moins un polyol et (iii) éventuellement au moins un monoalcool en C8-C32 et/ou au moins un acide monocarboxylique en C8-C36.Polyester The polyester used according to the invention is derived from the reaction between (i) a CH-C "carboxylic acid dimer, (ii) at least one polyol and (iii) optionally at least one C8-C32 monoalcohol and / or at least one C8-C36 monocarboxylic acid.
Les dimères d'acide carboxylique en C20-C44 sont des oligomères de 2 monomères identiques ou différents, qui sont obtenus à partir de deux acides monocarboxyliques insaturés, linéaires ou cycliques, en C10-C22, suivant une réaction bien connue de l'homme du métier. Des exemples de tels acides gras insaturés se trouvent habituellement dans les huiles de pin (Tall oil), colza, maïs, tournesol, soja, pépins de raisin, lin, ainsi que les acides eicosapentaénoïque et docosahexaénoïque que l'on trouve dans les huiles de poissons. On préfère utiliser des acides gras en CH issus des huiles de pin, de soja ou de colza. Ces dimères sont souvent présents en mélange avec des trimères et éventuellement des monomères de ces acides gras. On peut citer, comme exemples de mélanges dimères/trimères d'acides gras, les produits commercialisés par la société CRODA sous la dénomination commerciale Pripol®, par la société COGNIS sous la dénomination commerciale Empol®, par la société OLEON SOUS la dénomination commerciale Radiacid® et par la société ARIZONA CHEMICALS sous la dénomination commerciale Unidyme®.The C 20 -C 44 carboxylic acid dimers are oligomers of 2 identical or different monomers, which are obtained from two linear or cyclic C 10 -C 22 unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, according to a reaction well known to the man of the art. job. Examples of such unsaturated fatty acids are usually found in tall oil, rapeseed, maize, sunflower, soybean, grapeseed, flax, as well as the eicosapentaenoic and docosahexaenoic acids found in olive oils. Pisces. It is preferred to use CH fatty acids from pine, soya or rapeseed oils. These dimers are often present as a mixture with trimers and optionally monomers of these fatty acids. Mention may be made, as examples of dimer / trimer fatty acid mixtures, of the products marketed by the company CRODA under the trade name Pripol®, by the company COGNIS under the trade name Empol®, by the company OLEON under the trade name Radiacid. ® and by ARIZONA CHEMICALS under the trade name Unidyme®.
On préfère selon l'invention utiliser des mélanges d'oligomères comprenant : - 0 à 5% en poids de monomères d'acides gras, - 90 à 100% en poids de dimères d'acides gras, et - 0 à 5% en poids de trimères et oligomères supérieurs d'acides gras. On préfère en outre que ces oligomères soient présents sous forme hydrogénée, afin d'assurer une meilleure stabilité à l'oxydation et une plus faible coloration de la composition cosmétique. Des exemples de tels produits comprennent ceux commercialisés par la société CRODA sous les dénominations commerciales Pripol® 1006 et 1009, par la société COGNIS sous la dénomination commerciale Empol® 1008 et par la société OLEON sous la dénomination commerciale Radiacid® 0976. Pour obtenir le polyester utilisé selon l'invention, le dimère d'acide est copolymérisé avec au moins un polyol, de préférence un alcanediol. Il peut s'agir d'un alcanediol en C2-C10 comprenant une fonction hydroxyle à chaque extrémité de sa chaîne alkylène linéaire ou ramifiée. Il peut avantageusement être choisi parmi le 1,3-propanediol, le 2-méthy1-1,3-propanediol, le 1,4- butanediol, le néopentyl glycol (ou 2,2-diméthy1-1,3- propanediol) et le 1,6-hexanediol. On préfère selon l'invention utiliser le 1,3-propanediol. En variante, le polyol peut être choisi parmi un dimère diol tel que l'alcool dilinoleylique, les (poly)glycérols tels que le diglycérol et les (poly)alkyleneglycols tels que le diéthylène glycol. Selon une forme d'exécution préférée de l'invention, le polyester utilisé selon l'invention peut être obtenu uniquement à partir du dimère d'acide (ou du mélange d'oligomères le contenant) et du polyol précités. Un tel polyester à base d'alcanediol (1,3-propanediol ou 1,4- butanediol en particulier) est notamment disponible dans le commerce auprès de la société BIOSYNTHIS sous les dénominations commerciales Viscoplast° Green 3000 et Viscoplast° 14436H. Un autre polyester à base de polyols, obtenu à partir d'un dimère diol, tel que le produit d'hydrogénation de l'acide dimère dilinoléique, est celui commercialisé notamment par la société BIOSYNTHIS sous la dénomination commerciale Viscoplast® Green 3636.It is preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of oligomers comprising: 0 to 5% by weight of fatty acid monomers, 90 to 100% by weight of fatty acid dimers, and 0 to 5% by weight higher trimers and oligomers of fatty acids. It is furthermore preferred that these oligomers be present in hydrogenated form in order to ensure better oxidation stability and lower coloration of the cosmetic composition. Examples of such products include those marketed by the company CRODA under the trade names Pripol® 1006 and 1009, by the company Cognis under the trade name Empol® 1008 and by the company Oleon under the trade name Radiacid® 0976. To obtain the polyester used according to the invention, the acid dimer is copolymerized with at least one polyol, preferably an alkanediol. It can be a C2-C10 alkanediol comprising a hydroxyl function at each end of its linear or branched alkylene chain. It may advantageously be chosen from 1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol (or 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol) and 1,6-hexanediol. It is preferred according to the invention to use 1,3-propanediol. Alternatively, the polyol may be selected from a diol dimer such as dilinoleyl alcohol, (poly) glycerols such as diglycerol and (poly) alkylene glycols such as diethylene glycol. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyester used according to the invention can be obtained solely from the acid dimer (or mixture of oligomers containing it) and the above-mentioned polyol. Such an alkanediol-based polyester (1,3-propanediol or 1,4-butanediol in particular) is especially commercially available from BIOSYNTHIS under the trade names Viscoplast ° Green 3000 and Viscoplast ° 14436H. Another polyester based on polyols, obtained from a diol dimer, such as the product of hydrogenation of dimer dilinoleic acid, is the product marketed in particular by BIOSYNTHIS under the trade name Viscoplast® Green 3636.
En variante, le polyester selon l'invention peut être obtenu à partir des composés précités et également d'un mono-alcool en C8-C32, choisi de préférence parmi les alcools linéaires saturés en C=Cm, et plus préférentiellement en C16-C24, tels que l'octyldodécanol.Alternatively, the polyester according to the invention can be obtained from the abovementioned compounds and also from a C8-C32 monoalcohol, preferably chosen from linear alcohols saturated with C = Cm, and more preferably with C16-C24 , such as octyldodecanol.
Un exemple d'un tel polyester est commercialisé par la société BIOSYNTHIS sous la dénomination commerciale Viscoplast® Green 20000. En variante encore, le polyester selon l'invention peut être obtenu à partir du dimère d'acide carboxylique, du polyol précité (de préférence un (poly)glycérol et également d'au moins un acide monocarboxylique en C8-C36, éventuellement hydroxyle, choisi de préférence parmi les acides linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés, en C8-C20 tels que l'acide hydroxystéarique, l'acide isostéarique et l'acide isononanoïque. Des polyesters de ce type sont notamment les produits Viscoplast® Green 1836G et 18361G de la société BIOSYNTHIS. Le polyester selon l'invention ne renferme généralement pas d'autre monomère que ceux décrits précédemment. La composition selon l'invention peut par exemple renfermer de 5 à 30% en poids, de préférence de 8 à 15% en poids, de polyester, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Le mélange utilisé pour la fabrication de cette composition peut renfermer de 20 à 50% en poids, et de préférence de 30 à 40% en poids, du polyester décrit précédemment. Autres constituants Comme indiqué précédemment, la composition selon l'invention renferme un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire un milieu compatible avec la peau ou les muqueuses et éventuellement les phanères, plus particulièrement un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire qui présente une couleur, une odeur et un toucher agréables et qui ne génère pas d'inconfort inacceptable pour l'utilisateur après application, tel que des picotements, des tiraillements ou des rougeurs. A cet égard, on préfère que ce milieu ne renferme pas d'alcool.An example of such a polyester is sold by BIOSYNTHIS under the trade name Viscoplast® Green 20000. In another variant, the polyester according to the invention can be obtained from the carboxylic acid dimer, the above-mentioned polyol (preferably (poly) glycerol and also at least one optionally hydroxylated C 8 -C 36 monocarboxylic acid, preferably chosen from linear or branched, saturated C 8 -C 20 acids such as hydroxystearic acid, isostearic acid and isononanoic acid Polyesters of this type are in particular the products Viscoplast® Green 1836G and 18361G from BIOSYNTHIS The polyester according to the invention generally does not contain any monomer other than those described above. may for example contain from 5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 8 to 15% by weight, of polyester, relative to the total weight of the composition. the manufacture of this composition may contain from 20 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 30 to 40% by weight, of the polyester described above. Other constituents As indicated above, the composition according to the invention contains a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible with the skin or the mucous membranes and optionally the superficial body growths, more particularly a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is, that has a pleasant color, smell and feel and that does not generate unacceptable discomfort for the user after application, such as tingling, tugging or redness. In this regard, it is preferred that this medium does not contain alcohol.
Outre le polyester et l'huile de karanja décrits précédemment, cette composition comprend en général au moins une autre huile. Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par "huile" un composé liquide à température ambiante (25°C), et qui, lorsqu'il est introduit à raison d'au moins 1% en poids dans l'eau à 25°C, n'est pas du tout soluble dans l'eau, ou soluble à hauteur de moins de 10% en poids, par rapport au poids d'huile introduit dans l'eau.In addition to the polyester and karanja oil described above, this composition generally comprises at least one other oil. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and which, when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight in water at 25 ° C. C is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to less than 10% by weight, based on the weight of oil introduced into the water.
Des exemples d'huiles comprennent : les hydrocarbures, les (poly)esters et (poly)éthers et en particulier les (poly)esters d'acides ou d'hydroxyacides en C2-C24 (de préférence en C6-C20) et d'alcools ou de polyols, avantageusement ramifiés, en C2-C24 (de préférence en C8-C20) et les huiles végétales en contenant, les dialkyl carbonates tels que le dicaprylyl carbonate, les acides gras ramifiés et/ou insaturés (tels que les acides linoléique et linolénique), les alcools gras ramifiés et/ou insaturés (tels que l'octyldodécanol et l'hexyldécanol), les huiles de silicone, les huiles fluorosiliconées, les huiles fluorées, ainsi que leurs mélanges.Examples of oils include: hydrocarbons, (poly) esters and (poly) ethers and in particular (poly) esters of C2-C24 (preferably C6-C20) acids or hydroxy acids, and preferably C2-C24 alcohols or polyols (preferably C8-C20) and vegetable oils containing them, dialkyl carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate, branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids (such as linoleic acids) and linolenic), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols (such as octyldodecanol and hexyldecanol), silicone oils, fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.
Parmi ces huiles, comme hydrocarbures, on peut citer les hydrocarbures volatils ramifiés tels que l'isododécane, l'isohexadécane, ainsi que les hydrocarbures non volatils tels que le polybutène, le polyisobutène hydrogéné, les polydécènes, le polydécène hydrogéné, les huiles de paraffine et le squalane. On peut également citer les alcanes linéaires volatils en C8-C14, issus notamment de sources végétales, utilisés seuls ou en mélanges de deux alcanes différant d'un ou deux atomes de carbone, et en particulier un mélange constitué : (i) de 70 à 99% en poids d'au moins un alcane linéaire choisi parmi les alcanes en C8, Cm, C12 et leurs mélanges, de préférence un alcane en Cn, et (ii) de 1 à 30% en poids d'au moins un alcane linéaire en C14 à C24, de préférence un alcane en C14. Un tel mélange est décrit plus précisément dans la demande de brevet WO 2010/115973 à laquelle on pourra se référer pour plus de détails. Il est également disponible auprès de la société BIOSYNTHIS (nom INCI : COCONUT ALKANES) sous la dénomination commerciale VEGELIGHT® 1214. Comme (poly)esters, on peut notamment citer les mono-, di-, tri- et tétra-esters émollients, tels que l'acétate d'éthyle, l'acétate d'isopropyle, l'acétate d'oléyle, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, l'isononanoate d'éthylhexyle, le néopentanoate d'hexyle, le néopentanoate d'éthylhexyle, le néopentanoate d'isodécyle, le néopentanoate d'isostéaryle, le undécylénate d'heptyle, le diheptanoate de néopentylglycol, le diéthylhexanoate de néopentylglycol, le tétraéthylhexanoate de penta-érythrityle, le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrityle, le dicaprylate de propanediol, le dicaprylate / dicaprate de néopentylglycol, le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'isopropyle, le laurate d'hexyle, le mélange de caprate et caprylate de coco, les triglycérides d'acides gras en C8-C10, et leurs mélanges.Among these oils, hydrocarbons include branched volatile hydrocarbons such as isododecane, isohexadecane, and non-volatile hydrocarbons such as polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecenes, hydrogenated polydecene, paraffin oils and squalane. It is also possible to mention volatile linear C8-C14 alkanes, especially those derived from vegetable sources, used alone or in mixtures of two alkanes differing from one or two carbon atoms, and in particular a mixture consisting of: (i) from 70 to 99% by weight of at least one linear alkane selected from C8, Cm, C12 alkanes and mixtures thereof, preferably a C18 alkane, and (ii) from 1 to 30% by weight of at least one linear alkane at C14 to C24, preferably a C14 alkane. Such a mixture is described more specifically in patent application WO 2010/115973 to which reference may be made for more details. It is also available from the company BIOSYNTHIS (INCI name: COCONUT ALKANES) under the trade name VEGELIGHT® 1214. As (poly) esters, mention may especially be made of mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-emollient esters, such as that ethyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, oleyl acetate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate isodecyl, isostearyl neopentanoate, heptyl undecylenate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, propanediol dicaprylate, neopentyl glycol dicylate / dicaprate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, mixture of coconut caprate and caprylate, triglycerides of C8-C10 fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
Des exemples d'huiles végétales sont notamment les huiles de germe de blé, de tournesol, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de maïs, d'abricot, de ricin, de karité, d'avocat, d'olive, de soja, l'huile d'amande douce, de palme, de colza, de coton, de noisette, de macadamia, de jojoba, de luzerne, de pavot, de potimarron, de sésame, de courge, de colza, de cassis, d'onagre, de millet, d'orge, de quinoa, de seigle, de carthame, de bancoulier, de passiflore, de rosier muscat ou de camélia. On entend par "huile de silicone", une huile comprenant au moins un atome de silicium, et notamment au moins un groupe Si-O. Comme huile de silicone non volatile, on peut notamment citer les polydiméthyl- siloxanes renfermant au moins 8 atomes de silicium, les polyalkylméthylsiloxane dont la chaîne alkyle renferme de 8 à 20 atomes de carbone et les huiles identifiées par le nom INCI phenyl trimethicone. Comme huiles de silicone volatiles, on peut citer les cyclomethicones ou cyclopolysiloxanes.Examples of vegetable oils include wheat germ, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame, maize, apricot, castor oil, shea butter, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil , millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, rose hip or camellia. The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. Non-volatile silicone oils that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least 8 silicon atoms, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes in which the alkyl chain contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and oils identified by the INCI name phenyl trimethicone. As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of cyclomethicones or cyclopolysiloxanes.
Les alcanes linéaires volatils (ayant un point éclair inférieur à 100°C), les huiles végétales, les esters d'acide gras et/ou d'alcool gras tels que le caprylate / caprate de coco et leurs mélanges (tels que le produit Vegelight® 1214LC de BIOSYNTHIS, qui est un mélange d'alcanes linéaires en Cn et C14 et de coco caprylate / caprate) sont préférés pour une utilisation dans la présente invention, en raison de leur origine végétale.Volatile linear alkanes (having a flash point below 100 ° C), vegetable oils, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters such as caprylate / coconut caprate and mixtures thereof (such as Vegelight product) BIOSYNTHIS ® 1214LC, which is a mixture of linear Cn and C14 alkanes and coco caprylate / caprate) are preferred for use in the present invention because of their plant origin.
Ces huiles peuvent représenter de 20 à 80% en poids, de préférence de 30 à 70% en poids et, mieux, de 40 à 60% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. La composition selon l'invention peut en outre contenir au moins l'un des constituants suivants : un gélifiant ou structurant de phase grasse autre que le polyester précité, en particulier au moins un constituant choisi parmi : une cire végétale, animale ou hydrocarbonée ou bien un alcool gras linéaire tel que l'alcool cétylique ou un acide gras linéaire tel que l'acide stéarique, une gomme de silicone, un copolymère oléfinique, notamment de type Kraton®, un élastomère de silicone, une résine polyamide ou un polyester de polyol de haut poids moléculaire ; un agent filmogène, tel qu'une résine de silicone ou une résine hydrocarbonée ; un actif ; un agent photo-protecteur ou filtre UV organique ou inorganique autre que l'huile de karanja ; une charge ; un pigment de structure sphérique et/ou lamellaire, organique ou inorganique (tel que la silice, le talc, le mica...), éventuellement traité hydrophobe ; un colorant ; un parfum ; un conservateur ; et leurs mélanges.These oils may represent from 20 to 80% by weight, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight and better still from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one of the following constituents: a fat phase gelling agent or structurant other than the abovementioned polyester, in particular at least one constituent chosen from: a vegetable, animal or hydrocarbon wax, or a linear fatty alcohol such as cetyl alcohol or a linear fatty acid such as stearic acid, a silicone gum, an olefinic copolymer, in particular of the Kraton® type, a silicone elastomer, a polyamide resin or a polyol polyester high molecular weight; a film-forming agent, such as a silicone resin or a hydrocarbon resin; active ; a photo-protective agent or organic or inorganic UV filter other than karanja oil; a charge; a pigment of spherical and / or lamellar structure, organic or inorganic (such as silica, talc, mica, etc.), optionally hydrophobically treated; a dye; a perfume ; A conservationist ; and their mixtures.
On préfère en particulier que la composition selon l'invention renferme au moins un filtre UV inorganique tel que le dioxyde de titane et l'oxyde de zinc micronisés, et/ou au moins un filtre UV organique tel que l'octyl méthoxycinnamate. Cette composition est de préférence anhydre, c'est-à-dire qu'elle renferme moins de 5% en poids d'eau, voire moins de 1% en poids d'eau, mieux, moins de 0,5% en poids d'eau, l'eau n'étant pas ajoutée lors de la préparation de la composition mais correspondant à l'eau résiduelle apportée par les ingrédients qu'elle contient. Elle peut se présenter sous forme de fluide (solution ou dispersion), éventuellement conditionné dans un pulvérisateur ou imprégné sur une lingette, sous forme de gel ou sous forme solide, notamment sous forme de bâton ou de pain. En variante, la composition selon l'invention peut renfermer au moins 5% en poids d'eau et constituer, dans ce cas, un lait, une crème ou une mousse.It is particularly preferred that the composition according to the invention contains at least one inorganic UV filter such as micronized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, and / or at least one organic UV filter such as octyl methoxycinnamate. This composition is preferably anhydrous, that is to say it contains less than 5% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water, better still, less than 0.5% by weight of water. water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the ingredients it contains. It may be in the form of a fluid (solution or dispersion), optionally packaged in a spray or impregnated on a wipe, in gel form or in solid form, especially in the form of stick or bread. Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may contain at least 5% by weight of water and in this case constitute a milk, a cream or a mousse.
Les propriétés photo-protectrices de la composition selon l'invention peuvent être mises à profit aussi bien dans le domaine cosmétique, pour prévenir ou limiter les effets cutanés du photo-vieillissement, en particulier la formation de rides et de taches pigmentaires et le relâchement cutané, que dans le domaine pharmaceutique, notamment pour prévenir ou limiter l'érythème, l'immunosuppression, les photo-dermatoses et les cancers cutanés. La présente invention a donc pour objet 5 l'utilisation cosmétique de la composition décrite précédemment pour prévenir les dommages esthétiques de la peau et/ou des cheveux dus au rayonnement UV, en particulier pour prévenir ou limiter la formation de rides et de taches pigmentaires et le relâchement cutané. 10 Elle a également pour objet une composition telle que décrite précédemment pour une utilisation dans la prévention des dommages cutanés dus aux rayonnements UV, en particulier pour prévenir ou limiter l'érythème, 15 l'immunosuppression, les photo-dermatoses et les cancers cutanés. Outre ses propriétés photo-protectrices, la composition selon l'invention peut renfermer divers 20 ingrédients lui permettant d'être utilisée, dans le domaine cosmétique, comme produit de soin (en particulier anti-âge et/ou dépigmentant et/ou amincissant) et/ou de maquillage de la peau du visage et/ou du corps et/ou des lèvres ou encore comme produit capillaire tel qu'un 25 shampooing, un produit de conditionnement des cheveux rinçable ou non rinçable, ou un produit de coloration capillaire. L'invention sera mieux comprise à la lumière des 30 exemples non limitatifs suivants, donnée à des fins d'illustration uniquement.The photoprotective properties of the composition according to the invention can be used both in the cosmetic field to prevent or limit the cutaneous effects of photo-aging, in particular the formation of wrinkles and pigment spots and sagging skin. , that in the pharmaceutical field, in particular to prevent or limit erythema, immunosuppression, photo-dermatoses and cutaneous cancers. The present invention therefore relates to the cosmetic use of the composition described above to prevent cosmetic damage to the skin and / or hair due to UV radiation, in particular to prevent or limit the formation of wrinkles and pigment spots and sagging skin. It also relates to a composition as described above for use in the prevention of cutaneous damage due to UV radiation, in particular to prevent or limit erythema, immunosuppression, photo-dermatoses and cutaneous cancers. In addition to its photoprotective properties, the composition according to the invention may contain various ingredients enabling it to be used, in the cosmetic field, as a care product (in particular anti-aging and / or depigmenting and / or slimming) and and / or makeup of the skin of the face and / or of the body and / or the lips or as a hair product such as a shampoo, a rinse-off or non-rinse hair conditioning product, or a hair coloring product. The invention will be better understood in light of the following non-limiting examples, given for purposes of illustration only.
EXEMPLES Exemple 1 : Compositions cosmétiques On a préparé, de manière classique pour l'homme du métier, les compositions cosmétiques renfermant les constituants identifiés en majuscule ci-dessous par leur nom INCI (par référence au Dictionnaire CTFA, 13èrne Edition, 2010), dans les pourcentages en poids indiqués en regard de ces constituants. Gel de protection solaire PONGAMIA GLABRA SEED OIL 55,0 % OCTYLDODECYL DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER (Viscoplast® Green 20000 de BIOSYNTHIS) 20,0 % COCONUT ALKANES (Vegelight® 1214LC de BIOSYNTHIS) 15,0 % ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 10,0 % Ce gel présente un FPS de 30, mesuré in vitro suivant le protocole HelioTest n°1 (HELIOSCIENCE) et offre en outre une protection efficace contre les UVA (PA+++), évaluée suivant l'HelioTest n°2. Le protocole de ces tests est décrit dans Cosmetic and Toiletries, Vol 18, No. 10, 63-72 (2003). Emulsion fluide solaire TITANIUM DIOXIDE AND COCONUT ALKANES AND POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID AND STEARIC ACID AND ALUMINA AND COCO CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE(Vegelight® TiO2 60 de BIOSYNTHIS) 20,0% DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE (Viscoplast® Green 3636 de BIOSYNTHIS) 1,0% DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER (Viscoplast® Green 3000 de BIOSYNTHIS) 1,0% OCTYLDODECYL DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER AND PHYTOSTERYL SUNFLOWERSEEDATE AND HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE GLYCERIDES (Bioshine® 5000S de BIOSYNTHIS) 6,0% BUTYL OCTYL SALICYLATE 10,0% PONGAMIA GLABRA SEED CIL 6,0% COCOS NUCIFERA CIL 1,0% COCONUT ALKANES AND COCO CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (Vegelight® 1214LC de BIOSYNTHIS) 13,0% CETYL PEG/PPG 10/1 DIMETHICONE 3,5% ETHYL HEXYL GLYCERIN 1,0% SODIUM CHLORIDE 0,8% PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0,6% PROPANEDIOL 4,0% Eau qsp 100,0% Stick lèvres transparent DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER (Viscoplast® Green 3000 de BIOSYNTHIS) 35,0 % DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 20,0 % ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 7,0 % ETHYLHEXYL ISONONANOATE 20,0 % PONGAMIA GLABRA SEED OIL 13,0 % DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE 3,0 % DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL GLUTAMIDE 2,0 % Huile solaire ambrée PONGAMIA GLABRA SEED CIL 65,0 % OCTYLDODECYL DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER 12,0 % COCOS NUCIFERA CIL 22,2 % Parfum 0,8 % Cette composition présente un FPS de 20, mesuré in vitro.EXAMPLES Example 1: Cosmetic Compositions The cosmetic compositions containing the constituents identified in capital letters below by their INCI name (with reference to the CTFA Dictionary, 13th Edition, 2010) were prepared, in a conventional manner for the person skilled in the art, in the percentages by weight indicated opposite these constituents. Sun protection gel PONGAMIA GLABRA SEED OIL 55.0% OCTYLDODECYL DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER (BIOSYNTHIS Viscoplast® Green 20000) 20.0% COCONUT ALKANES (Vegelight® 1214LC from BIOSYNTHIS) 15.0% ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 10.0% Ce gel has a SPF of 30, measured in vitro according to the HelioTest No. 1 protocol (HELIOSCIENCE) and offers in addition an effective protection against UVA (PA +++), evaluated according to HelioTest No. 2. The protocol for these tests is described in Cosmetic and Toiletries, Vol 18, No. 10, 63-72 (2003). Solar fluid emulsion TITANIUM DIOXIDE AND COCONUT ALKANES AND POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID AND STEARIC ACID AND ALUMINA AND COCO CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (BIOSYNTHIS Vegelight® TiO2 60) 20.0% DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE (Viscoplast® Green 3636 from BIOSYNTHIS) 1.0% DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER (Viscoplast® Green 3000 from BIOSYNTHIS) 1.0% OCTYLDODECYL DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER AND PHYTOSTERYL SUNFLOWERSEEDATE AND HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE GLYCERIDES (Bioshine® 5000S from BIOSYNTHIS) 6.0% BUTYL OCTYL SALICYLATE 10.0% PONGAMIA GLABRA SEED CIL 6.0% COCOS NUCIFERA CIL 1.0% COCONUT ALKANES AND COCO CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (BIOSYNTHIS Vegelight® 1214LC) 13.0% CETYL PEG / PPG 10/1 DIMETHICONE 3.5% ETHYL HEXYL GLYCERIN 1.0% SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.8% PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.6% PROPANEDIOL 4.0% Water qs 100.0% Transparent lipstick DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER (Viscoplast® Green 3000 from BIOSYNTHIS) 35.0% DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 20.0% ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 7.0% ETHYL HEXYL ISONONANOATE 20.0% PONGAMIA GLABRA SEED OIL 13.0% DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE 3.0% DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL GLUTAMIDE 2.0% Amber Solar Oil PONGAMIA GLABRA SEED CIL 65.0% OCTYLDODECYL DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER 12.0% COCOS NUCIFERA CIL 22.2% Perfume 0.8% This composition has a SPF of 20, measured in vitro.
Elle laisse sur la peau un film très doux et résistant l'eau. Huile de soin réparatrice COCONUT ALKANES & DIMETHICONOL (Vegelight Si-1517 de BIOSYNTHIS) 69,0 % ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 7,0 % PONGAMIA GLABRA SEED CIL 16,0 % OCTYLDODECYL DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER 2,0 % ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL CIL 5,0 % Parfum 0,8 % TOCOPHEROL 0,2 % Cette huile peut être appliquée sur cheveux secs et abîmés pour réparer leurs fibres et les protéger du soleil. Exemple 2 : Evaluation de l'effet promoteur de FPS du polyester selon l'invention On a mesuré in vitro, comme dans l'Exemple 1, le FPS et l'indice de protection UVA (PA) d'une huile de karanja désodorisée utilisée seule (Composition A), d'une part, et en association avec un polyester selon l'invention, en l'occurrence le Viscoplast® Green 20000 de BIOSYNTHIS (Composition B), dans un rapport en poids de l'huile de karanja au polyester de 65:35, d'autre part. Les résultats de cet essai sont présentés dans le Tableau 1 ci-dessous : Tableau 1 Composition testée FPS UV-A Ratio FPS/UVA A 46,9 18,6 2,52 B 45,6 18,6 2,73 Le FPS moyen de la composition B a également été mesuré in vivo sur 3 volontaires et était de 30.It leaves on the skin a very soft and water resistant film. COCONUT ALKANES & DIMETHICONOL Restorative Care Oil (BIOSYNTHIS Vegelight Si-1517) 69.0% ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 7.0% PONGAMIA GLABRA SEED CIL 16.0% OCTYLDODECYL DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER 2.0% ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL CIL 5, 0% Perfume 0.8% TOCOPHEROL 0.2% This oil can be applied to dry and damaged hair to repair their fibers and protect them from the sun. EXAMPLE 2 Evaluation of the Promoter Effect of SPF of the Polyester According to the Invention The SPF and the UVA protection index (PA) of a deodorized karanja oil used were measured in vitro, as in Example 1. only (Composition A), on the one hand, and in combination with a polyester according to the invention, in this case Viscoplast® Green 20000 from BIOSYNTHIS (Composition B), in a ratio by weight of karanja oil to 65:35 polyester, on the other hand. The results of this test are shown in Table 1 below: Table 1 Composition tested SPF UV-A SPF / UVA Ratio A 46.9 18.6 2.52 B 45.6 18.6 2.73 The average SPF Composition B was also measured in vivo on 3 volunteers and was 30.
Cet essai démontre que le polyester selon l'invention permet d'augmenter significativement le FPS et la protection UV-A conférée par l'huile de karanja, puisqu'il permet d'obtenir un FPS et un indice de protection UVA identiques à une composition comprenant 50% de plus d'huile de karanja. Il est ainsi possible de tirer partie des propriétés photoprotectrices de l'huile de karanja en utilisant une plus faible quantité de celle-ci, et d'obtenir une composition présentant de meilleures propriétés cosmétiques.This test demonstrates that the polyester according to the invention makes it possible to significantly increase the SPF and the UV-A protection conferred by karanja oil, since it makes it possible to obtain a SPF and a UVA protection index that are identical to a composition. including 50% more karanja oil. It is thus possible to take advantage of the photoprotective properties of karanja oil by using a smaller amount thereof, and to obtain a composition having better cosmetic properties.
Exemple 3 : Comparaison de différents agents structurants de phase grasse On a comparé l'effet sur le FPS et l'indice de protection UV-A d'un polyester selon l'invention (Viscoplast® Green 20000 de BIOSYNTHIS), utilisé à raison de 10% en poids, et d'un autre agent structurant de phase grasse, à savoir l'huile de ricin hydrogénée, utilisée à raison de 3% en poids, qui est la quantité maximale utilisable compte tenu de sa viscosité. Chacun de ces structurants était formulé en association avec 30% en poids d'huile de karanja, 25% en poids d'une dispersion d'oxydes de titane et de zinc (à 33% de matière active) et 10% en poids d'huiles végétales gélifiées (Bioshine® de BIOSYNTHIS), dans un milieu constitué d'un mélange d'alcanes linéaires en C12 et C14 et de coco caprylate / caprate (Vegelight® 1214LC de BIOSYNTHIS), la quantité du milieu étant ajustée pour obtenir une teneur totale en ingrédients de la composition de 100% en poids. Les essais ont été réalisés de manière similaire l'Exemple 1, sur une plaque de PMMA.Example 3 Comparison of different fat-phase structuring agents The effect on the SPF and the UV-A protection factor of a polyester according to the invention (Viscoplast® Green 20000 from BIOSYNTHIS) was compared, used at the rate of 10% by weight, and another fatty phase structuring agent, namely hydrogenated castor oil, used in a proportion of 3% by weight, which is the maximum amount that can be used, given its viscosity. Each of these structurants was formulated in combination with 30% by weight of karanja oil, 25% by weight of a dispersion of titanium and zinc oxides (at 33% of active ingredient) and 10% by weight of gelled vegetable oils (Bioshine® from BIOSYNTHIS), in a medium consisting of a mixture of linear C12 and C14 alkanes and coco caprylate / caprate (Vegelight® 1214LC from BIOSYNTHIS), the amount of the medium being adjusted to obtain a content total ingredients of the composition of 100% by weight. The tests were carried out similarly to Example 1 on a PMMA plate.
Les résultats obtenus sont rassemblés dans le Tableau 2 ci-dessous : Tableau 2 Agent FPS UV-A Ratio FPS/UVA structurant Viscoplast® Green 20000 67,4 24,3 2,77 Huile de ricin 38,4 15,7 2,44 hydrogénée -- (plaque 18,9 8,3 2,28 de PMMA) Cet essai démontre que le polyester selon l'invention permet d'augmenter significativement le FPS et la protection UV-A conférée par l'huile de karanja, contrairement à d'autres épaississants de l'art antérieur.The results obtained are summarized in Table 2 below: TABLE 2 FPS UV-A Agent Ratio SPF / UVA structuring Viscoplast® Green 20000 67.4 24.3 2.77 Castor oil 38.4 15.7 2.44 This test demonstrates that the polyester according to the invention makes it possible to significantly increase the SPF and the UV-A protection conferred by karanja oil, unlike other thickeners of the prior art.
Claims (14)
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| PCT/EP2013/065640 WO2014016349A1 (en) | 2012-07-24 | 2013-07-24 | Photoprotective composition |
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR3037796A1 (en) * | 2015-06-25 | 2016-12-30 | Cosmact | ANTISOLAR FILTRATION NATURAL COMPOSITIONS AND USES THEREOF |
| CN112022777A (en) * | 2020-10-22 | 2020-12-04 | 北京唯爱生物科技有限公司 | Rosa roxburghii water replenishing fragment cream and preparation method and application thereof |
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| FR3039063B1 (en) | 2015-07-22 | 2017-07-21 | Biosynthis Sarl | PROCESS FOR ENRICHING PONGAMOL WITH KARANJA OIL |
| WO2017163182A2 (en) * | 2016-03-21 | 2017-09-28 | Gilas Sas Di Carcano Maria Grazia E C. | Enhanced oily mixture for topical use |
| ITUA20162453A1 (en) * | 2016-03-21 | 2017-09-21 | Gilas Sas Di Carcano Maria Grazia E C | OILY MIXTURE FOR TOPICAL USE |
| KR20190018435A (en) | 2016-06-17 | 2019-02-22 | 가부시키가이샤 시세이도 | Lip cosmetic |
| CN110022847A (en) | 2016-11-24 | 2019-07-16 | 荷兰联合利华有限公司 | Cosmetic composition comprising natural active products |
| WO2019068563A1 (en) * | 2017-10-04 | 2019-04-11 | Sophia Morgan | Water free composition and cosmetic use thereof |
| CA3203712A1 (en) * | 2021-01-05 | 2022-07-14 | Emmanuel Paul Jos Marie Everaert | Natural oil-based petrolatum and method of making same |
| WO2023018798A1 (en) * | 2021-08-12 | 2023-02-16 | Aki, Inc | Non-silicone silky fragrance product for hair |
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| FR2944289B1 (en) | 2009-04-10 | 2011-12-23 | Biosynthis Sarl | VOLATILE OIL COMPOSITION |
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| FR2720643A1 (en) * | 1994-06-03 | 1995-12-08 | Clarins | Cosmetic compsn. contg. mixt. of hydroxy-acids |
| US5833961A (en) * | 1996-06-25 | 1998-11-10 | Inolex Investment Corporation | Polyester-based suncreen formulations |
| FR2762008A1 (en) * | 1997-04-15 | 1998-10-16 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | Deodorisation of Pongamia oil for use in cosmetics |
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| FR3037796A1 (en) * | 2015-06-25 | 2016-12-30 | Cosmact | ANTISOLAR FILTRATION NATURAL COMPOSITIONS AND USES THEREOF |
| CN112022777A (en) * | 2020-10-22 | 2020-12-04 | 北京唯爱生物科技有限公司 | Rosa roxburghii water replenishing fragment cream and preparation method and application thereof |
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| WO2014016349A1 (en) | 2014-01-30 |
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