FR2977152A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYESTER AND A GLUTAMIDE RESIN - Google Patents
COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYESTER AND A GLUTAMIDE RESIN Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2977152A1 FR2977152A1 FR1155943A FR1155943A FR2977152A1 FR 2977152 A1 FR2977152 A1 FR 2977152A1 FR 1155943 A FR1155943 A FR 1155943A FR 1155943 A FR1155943 A FR 1155943A FR 2977152 A1 FR2977152 A1 FR 2977152A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- composition according
- weight
- composition
- glutamide
- resin
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 57
- ZDXPYRJPNDTMRX-GSVOUGTGSA-N D-glutamine Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@H](N)CCC(N)=O ZDXPYRJPNDTMRX-GSVOUGTGSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
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- 239000000539 dimer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- QIVRABJQTNPYAI-QFIPXVFZSA-N (2s)-n,n'-dibutyl-2-(dodecanoylamino)pentanediamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@H](C(=O)NCCCC)CCC(=O)NCCCC QIVRABJQTNPYAI-QFIPXVFZSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 7
- OVUBDKNXJHOLMI-ZVAWYAOSSA-N (2s)-n,n'-dibutyl-2-(2-ethylhexanoylamino)pentanediamide Chemical compound CCCCNC(=O)CC[C@@H](C(=O)NCCCC)NC(=O)C(CC)CCCC OVUBDKNXJHOLMI-ZVAWYAOSSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
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- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N Linoleic acid Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-IXWMQOLASA-N linoleic acid Natural products CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C\CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-IXWMQOLASA-N 0.000 claims 1
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- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- HGKOWIQVWAQWDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(16-methylheptadecyl) 2-hydroxybutanedioate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C HGKOWIQVWAQWDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
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- GYDYJUYZBRGMCC-INIZCTEOSA-N (2s)-2-amino-6-(dodecanoylamino)hexanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCCC[C@H](N)C(O)=O GYDYJUYZBRGMCC-INIZCTEOSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NRTKYSGFUISGRQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (3-heptanoyloxy-2,2-dimethylpropyl) heptanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)(C)COC(=O)CCCCCC NRTKYSGFUISGRQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001195 (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- JSOVGYMVTPPEND-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecyl 2,2-dimethylpropanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)(C)C JSOVGYMVTPPEND-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LCVHZNSIAYNAGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C LCVHZNSIAYNAGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229920002050 silicone resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002379 silicone rubber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000012265 solid product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003784 tall oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[phenyl-bis(trimethylsilyloxy)silyl]oxysilane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](O[Si](C)(C)C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)C1=CC=CC=C1 LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/85—Polyesters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
La présente invention concerne une composition comprenant : (a) au moins un polyester issu de la réaction entre un dimère d'acide carboxylique en C -C , au moins un alcanediol et éventuellement au moins un monoalcool, et (b) au moins une résine glutamide constituée d'un N,N'-dialkyl acylglutamide. Elle a également pour objet l'utilisation cosmétique de cette composition pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de la peau du visage et/ou du corps et/ou des lèvres.The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one polyester derived from the reaction between a C -C -carboxylic acid dimer, at least one alkanediol and optionally at least one monoalcohol, and (b) at least one resin glutamide consisting of a N, N'-dialkyl acylglutamide. It also relates to the cosmetic use of this composition for the care and / or makeup of the skin of the face and / or body and / or lips.
Description
1 Composition cosmétique comprenant un polyester et une résine glutamide Cosmetic composition comprising a polyester and a glutamide resin
La présente invention concerne une composition comprenant : (a) au moins un polyester issu de la réaction entre un dimère d'acide carboxylique, au moins un alcanediol et éventuellement au moins un monoalcool, et (b) au moins une résine glutamide constituée d'un N,N'-dialkyl acylglutamide. Elle a également pour objet l'utilisation cosmétique de cette composition pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de la peau et/ou des lèvres. The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one polyester derived from the reaction between a carboxylic acid dimer, at least one alkanediol and optionally at least one monoalcohol, and (b) at least one glutamide resin consisting of N, N'-dialkyl acylglutamide. It also relates to the cosmetic use of this composition for the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips.
Pour assurer une application plus commode sur la peau ou les muqueuses, certaines compositions cosmétiques se présentent sous forme de gel ou sous forme solide, notamment sous forme de bâton ou de pain. Il en est notamment ainsi de certains rouges à lèvres et déodorants. La formulation de ces compositions doit être optimisée pour qu'elles satisfassent à des impératifs de facilité d'application (caractère glissant), de confort (absence de dessèchement), d'absence de résidus à l'application (traces blanches) et de stabilité dans le temps et à la température. To ensure a more convenient application to the skin or mucous membranes, certain cosmetic compositions are in the form of gel or in solid form, especially in the form of stick or bread. This is notably the case with certain lipsticks and deodorants. The formulation of these compositions must be optimized so that they satisfy requirements of ease of application (slipperiness), comfort (no drying out), absence of residues on application (white traces) and stability in time and temperature.
Ces compositions comprennent généralement des huiles (brillantes et/ou émollientes) associées à des gélifiants ou structurants de phase grasse, ainsi que des agents filmogènes et éventuellement des poudres et/ou des pigments. Le choix du gélifiant ou structurant est notamment crucial pour limiter l'exsudation de la composition, qui est susceptible d'entraîner une altération de l'aspect esthétique du produit. Toutefois, un taux de structurant, en particulier de cires, trop 2 élevé entraîne souvent un manque de glissant et un aspect mat de la composition, ainsi qu'une sensation rêche sur la peau ou les muqueuses. These compositions generally comprise oils (glossy and / or emollient) associated with gelling agents or structuring of fatty phase, as well as film-forming agents and optionally powders and / or pigments. The choice of gelling agent or structuring is particularly crucial to limit the exudation of the composition, which is likely to cause an alteration of the aesthetic appearance of the product. However, a rate of structurant, especially waxes, too high often results in a lack of slipperiness and a dull appearance of the composition, as well as a rough feeling on the skin or mucous membranes.
Pour remédier à ce problème, il a déjà été suggéré d'utiliser comme couple huile / gélifiant de phase grasse l'association d'une résine polyamide avec des esters d'hydroxyacides tels que le malate de diisostéaryle (FR 2 816 506). Il a également été proposé d'utiliser une résine polyamide particulière plus liposoluble, à terminaison ester, résultant de la réaction d'un acide dibasique (tel qu'un dimère d'acide), d'une diamine, d'un polyol et d'un alcool gras, en association avec diverses huiles, de préférence hydrocarbonées (US-7,329,719). Ces solutions permettent en outre de préparer des compositions solides transparentes. La stabilité au stockage de ces compositions n'est toutefois pas suffisante, de sorte qu'il a été suggéré, pour limiter leur exsudation, d'associer ces résines polyamides à des résines glutamides (US 2009/0280076). To remedy this problem, it has already been suggested to use as the oil / fatty phase gelling pair the combination of a polyamide resin with hydroxy acid esters such as diisostearyl malate (FR 2816506). It has also been proposed to use a particular liposoluble, ester-terminated polyamide resin resulting from the reaction of a dibasic acid (such as an acid dimer), a diamine, a polyol, and a polyol. a fatty alcohol, in combination with various oils, preferably hydrocarbon (US-7,329,719). These solutions also make it possible to prepare transparent solid compositions. The storage stability of these compositions, however, is not sufficient, so that it has been suggested, to limit their exudation, to associate these polyamide resins with glutamide resins (US 2009/0280076).
Ces résines glutamides sont commercialisées par la société AJINOMOTO, sous les dénominations commerciales EB-21® et GP-1®. Selon leur fournisseur, elles sont destinées à être utilisées notamment dans des rouges à lèvres et des déodorants, pour gélifier des huiles hydrocarbonées telles que le polyisobutène. Il a ainsi été suggéré d'associer ces résines glutamides à un alkyl éther de cellulose et à des huiles telles que le polybutène ou le polyisobutène hydrogéné, toujours en présence de solvants polaires de type alcools gras, pour obtenir un produit solide transparent, présentant une 3 stabilité structurale et de surface sous l'effet des variations de température (US-7,534,446). These glutamidal resins are sold by the company Ajinomoto under the trade names EB-21® and GP-1®. According to their supplier, they are intended to be used in particular in lipsticks and deodorants, for gelling hydrocarbon oils such as polyisobutene. It has thus been suggested to associate these glutamide resins with a cellulose alkyl ether and with oils such as hydrogenated polybutene or polyisobutene, again in the presence of polar solvents of the fatty alcohol type, in order to obtain a transparent solid product having a 3 structural and surface stability under the effect of temperature changes (US-7,534,446).
Néanmoins, il a été observé que les compositions solides renfermant ces résines glutamides et du poly(iso)butène présentaient encore des problèmes d'exsudation. Pour limiter ces problèmes, le fournisseur de ces résines glutamides recommande de combiner deux polyisobutènes hydrogénés avec des viscosités différentes, et d'ajouter un composé polaire compatible de type ester d'hydroxyacide, tel que le malate de diisostéaryle. Or, les inventeurs ont découvert que la substitution du poly(iso)butène par des polyesters particuliers constituait une alternative avantageuse pour résoudre ce problème d'exsudation. Nevertheless, it has been observed that the solid compositions containing these glutamide resins and poly (iso) butene still have bleeding problems. To limit these problems, the supplier of these glutamide resins recommends combining two hydrogenated polyisobutenes with different viscosities, and adding a compatible polar compound of the hydroxy acid ester type, such as diisostearyl malate. However, the inventors have discovered that the substitution of poly (iso) butene by particular polyesters was an advantageous alternative to solve this problem of exudation.
La présente invention a ainsi pour objet une composition comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable: (a) au moins un polyester issu de la réaction entre un dimère d'acide carboxylique en Cao-C44, au moins un alcanediol et éventuellement au moins un monoalcool, (b) au moins une résine glutamide constituée d'un N,N'-dialkyl acylglutamide. The subject of the present invention is thus a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (a) at least one polyester resulting from the reaction between a carboxylic acid dimer of Cao-C44, at least one alkanediol and optionally at least one monoalcohol (b) at least one glutamide resin consisting of N, N'-dialkyl acylglutamide.
L'invention a également pour objet l'utilisation cosmétique de cette composition pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de la peau et/ou des lèvres. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of this composition for the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips.
30 Elle a encore pour objet l'utilisation d'un polyester tel que défini précédemment, pour améliorer la stabilité au stockage d'une composition solide renfermant au moins un N,N'-dialkyl acylglutamide. 25 4 A titre préliminaire, on notera que, dans la description et les revendications suivantes, l'expression "compris entre" doit s'entendre comme incluant les bornes citées. It also relates to the use of a polyester as defined above, to improve the storage stability of a solid composition containing at least one N, N'-dialkyl acylglutamide. As a preliminary matter, it will be appreciated that in the following description and claims, the term "between" should be understood to include the cited boundaries.
Les constituants de la composition selon l'invention seront à présent décrits plus en détail. The constituents of the composition according to the invention will now be described in more detail.
Résine glutamide Glutamide resin
Par « résine glutamide », on entend, au sens de la présente invention, un N,N'-dialkyl acylglutamide. Des exemples d'un tel composé sont le dibutyl lauroylglutamide, le dibutyl ethylhexanoylglutamide et leurs mélanges, qui sont notamment disponibles auprès de la société AJINOMOTO sous les dénominations commerciales GP-1®et EB-21®. Pour obtenir une parfaite transparence de la composition, on peut en particulier utiliser un mélange de dibutyl lauroylglutamide et de dibutyl ethylhexanoylglutamide dans un rapport pondéral du dibutyl lauroylglutamide au dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide compris entre 30:70 et 70:30, de préférence entre 50:50 et 60:40. Ces résines peuvent être mises en oeuvre sous forme de poudre, sous les dénominations commerciales précitées. En variante, elles peuvent être utilisées sous forme pré-solubilisées dans des alcools gras tels que l'alcool cétylique et l'octyldodécanol, pour former des gels à bas point de fusion (max. 100°C). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "glutamide resin" is intended to mean an N, N'-dialkyl acylglutamide. Examples of such a compound are dibutyl lauroylglutamide, dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide and mixtures thereof, which are in particular available from the company AJINOMOTO under the trade names GP-1® and EB-21®. To obtain a perfect transparency of the composition, it is possible in particular to use a mixture of dibutyl lauroylglutamide and dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide in a weight ratio of dibutyl lauroylglutamide to dibutylethylhexanoyl glutamide of between 30:70 and 70:30, preferably between 50:50 and 60:40. These resins can be used in powder form, under the aforementioned trade names. Alternatively, they may be used in pre-solubilized form in fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol to form low melting point gels (max 100 ° C).
De tels gels sont notamment disponibles auprès de la société AJINOMOTO dans la série AJK. Such gels are available in particular from AJINOMOTO in the AJK series.
La résine glutamide peut représenter de 0,2 à Io% en poids, de préférence de 0,4 à 8% en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 4 à 6% en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition. Polyester The glutamide resin may represent from 0.2 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 4 to 6% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Polyester
Le polyester utilisé selon l'invention est issu de la réaction entre un dimère d'acide carboxylique en Cm- C44r au moins un alcanediol et éventuellement au moins un monoalcool. The polyester used according to the invention is derived from the reaction between a Cm-C44r carboxyl carboxylic acid dimer and at least one alkanediol and optionally at least one monoalcohol.
Les dimères d'acide carboxylique en Cm-C44 sont des oligomères de 2 monomères identiques ou différents, qui sont obtenus à partir de deux acides monocarboxyliques insaturés, linéaires ou cycliques, en Cm-C22, suivant une réaction bien connue de l'homme du métier. Des exemples de tels acides gras insaturés se trouvent habituellement dans les huiles de pin (Tall oil), colza, maïs, tournesol, soja, pépins de raisin, lin, ainsi que les acides eicosapentaénoïque et docosahexaénoïque que l'on trouve dans les huiles de poissons. On préfère utiliser des acides gras en C18 issus des huiles de pin, de soja ou de colza. The Cm-C44 carboxylic acid dimers are oligomers of 2 identical or different monomers, which are obtained from two linear or cyclic unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, Cm-C22, according to a reaction well known to the human being. job. Examples of such unsaturated fatty acids are usually found in tall oil, rapeseed, maize, sunflower, soybean, grapeseed, flax, as well as the eicosapentaenoic and docosahexaenoic acids found in olive oils. Pisces. It is preferred to use C18 fatty acids derived from pine, soya or rapeseed oils.
Ces dimères sont souvent présents en mélange avec des trimères et éventuellement des monomères de ces acides gras. On peut citer, comme exemples de mélanges dimères/trimères d'acides gras, les produits commercialisés par la société CRODA sous la dénomination commerciale Pripol®, par la société COGNIS sous la dénomination commerciale Empol®, par la société OLEON sous la dénomination commerciale Radiacid® et par la 5 6 société ARIZONA CHEMICALS sous la dénomination commerciale Unidyme®. These dimers are often present as a mixture with trimers and optionally monomers of these fatty acids. Mention may be made, as examples of dimer / trimer fatty acid mixtures, of the products marketed by the company CRODA under the trade name Pripol®, by the company Cognis under the trade name Empol®, by Oleon under the trade name Radiacid. ® and by the company ARIZONA CHEMICALS under the trade name Unidyme®.
On préfère selon l'invention utiliser des mélanges d'oligomères comprenant : - 0 à 5% en poids de monomères d'acides gras, - 90 à no% en poids de dimères d'acides gras, et - 0 à 5% en poids de trimères et oligomères supérieurs d'acides gras. It is preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of oligomers comprising: 0 to 5% by weight of fatty acid monomers, 90 to 10% by weight of fatty acid dimers, and 0 to 5% by weight. higher trimers and oligomers of fatty acids.
On préfère en outre que ces oligomères soient présents sous forme hydrogénée, afin d'assurer une meilleure stabilité à l'oxydation et une plus faible coloration de la composition cosmétique. Des exemples de tels produits comprennent ceux commercialisés par la société CRODA sous les dénominations commerciales Pripol® 1006 et 1009, par la société COGNIS sous la dénomination commerciale Empol® 1008 et par la société OLEON sous la dénomination commerciale Radiacid® 0976. It is furthermore preferred that these oligomers be present in hydrogenated form in order to ensure better oxidation stability and lower coloration of the cosmetic composition. Examples of such products include those marketed by the company CRODA under the trade names Pripol® 1006 and 1009, by Cognis under the trade name Empol® 1008 and by Oleon under the trade name Radiacid® 0976.
Pour obtenir le polyester utilisé selon l'invention, le dimère d'acide est copolymérisé avec au moins un alcanediol. Celui-ci peut par exemple être un alcanediol en C2-Cm comprenant une fonction hydroxyle à chaque extrémité de sa chaîne linéaire ou ramifiée. Il peut avantageusement être choisi parmi le 1,3-propanediol, le 2-méthyl-1,3-propanediol, le 1,4-butanediol, le néopentyl glycol (ou 2,2-diméthyl-1,3-propanediol) et le 1,6-hexanediol. On préfère selon l'invention utiliser le 1,3- propanediol. To obtain the polyester used according to the invention, the acid dimer is copolymerized with at least one alkanediol. This may for example be a C2-C18 alkanediol comprising a hydroxyl function at each end of its linear or branched chain. It may advantageously be chosen from 1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol (or 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol) and the 1,6-hexanediol. It is preferred according to the invention to use 1,3-propanediol.
Selon une forme d'exécution préférée de l'invention, le polyester utilisé selon l'invention peut être obtenu 7 uniquement à partir du dimère d'acide (ou du mélange d'oligomères le contenant) et de l'alcanediol précités. Un tel polyester est notamment disponible dans le commerce auprès de la société BIOSYNTHIS sous les dénominations commerciales Viscoplast® Green 3000, Viscoplast® Green 20000 et Viscoplast® 14436H. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyester used according to the invention can be obtained only from the acid dimer (or mixture of oligomers containing it) and the aforementioned alkanediol. Such a polyester is in particular commercially available from BIOSYNTHIS under the trade names Viscoplast® Green 3000, Viscoplast® Green 20000 and Viscoplast® 14436H.
En variante, il peut être obtenu à partir de ces composés et également d'un monoalcool. Celui-ci peut notamment être choisi parmi les alcools et acides gras saturés en C4-C24, en particulier l'alcool caprylique. Alternatively, it can be obtained from these compounds and also a monoalcohol. This may especially be chosen from saturated alcohols and C4-C24 fatty acids, in particular caprylic alcohol.
On préfère dans tous les cas que le polyester décrit ci-dessus représente de 10 à 7o% en poids, et de préférence de 15 à 50% en poids, par exemple de 20 à 4o% en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition selon l'invention. It is preferred in all cases that the polyester described above is 10 to 70% by weight, and preferably 15 to 50% by weight, for example 20 to 40% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. according to the invention.
Autres constituants La composition selon l'invention comprend un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire un milieu compatible avec la peau ou les muqueuses et éventuellement les phanères en vue d'une utilisation cosmétique, c'est-à-dire qui ne génère pas d'inconfort inacceptable pour l'utilisateur après application, tel que des picotements, des tiraillements ou des rougeurs. Other constituents The composition according to the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with the skin or the mucous membranes and optionally the integuments for cosmetic use, that is to say which does not generate unacceptable discomfort for the user after application, such as tingling, tightness or redness.
Outre le polyester et la résine glutamide décrits précédemment, cette composition comprend en général au moins une huile. Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par "huile" un composé liquide à température ambiante (25°C), et qui, lorsqu'il est introduit à raison 8 d'au moins 1% en poids dans l'eau à 25°C, n'est pas du tout soluble dans l'eau, ou soluble à hauteur de moins de 10% en poids, par rapport au poids d'huile introduit dans l'eau. In addition to the polyester and glutamide resin described above, this composition generally comprises at least one oil. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and which, when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight in water at 25 ° C. ° C is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to less than 10% by weight, based on the weight of oil introduced into the water.
Des exemples d'huiles comprennent : les (poly)esters et (poly)étters et en particulier les (poly)esters d'acides ou d'hydroxyacides en C2-C24 (de préférence en C6-C20) et d'alcools ou de polyols, avantageusement ramifiés, en C2-C24 (de préférence en C6-Cm) et les huiles végétales en contenant, les polyesters d'acide dilinoléique autres que le polyester selon l'invention, les dialkyl carbonates tels que le dicaprylyl carbonate, les acides gras ramifiés et/ou insaturés (tels que les acides linoléique et linolénique), les alcools gras ramifiés et/ou insaturés (tels que l'octyldodécanol et l'hexyldécanol), les huiles de silicone, les huiles fluorosiliconées, les huiles fluorées, ainsi que leurs mélanges. Examples of oils include: (poly) esters and (poly) ethers and in particular (poly) esters of C2-C24 (preferably C6-C20) acids or hydroxy acids and alcohols or polyols, advantageously branched, C2-C24 (preferably C6-Cm) and vegetable oils containing them, dilinoleic acid polyesters other than the polyester according to the invention, dialkyl carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate, acids branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids (such as linoleic and linolenic acids), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols (such as octyldodecanol and hexyldecanol), silicone oils, fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated oils, and as their mixtures.
Parmi ces huiles, comme (poly)esters, on peut notamment citer les mono-, di-, tri- et tétra-esters émollients, tels que l'acétate d'éthyle, l'acétate d'isopropyle, l'acétate d'oléyle, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, l'isononanoate d'éthylhexyle, le néopentanoate d'hexyle, le néopentanoate d'éthylhexyle, le néopentanoate d'isodécyle, le néopentanoate d'isostéaryle, le undécylénate d'heptyle, le diheptanoate de néopentylglycol, le diéthylhexanoate de néopentylglycol, le tétraéthylhexanoate de pentaérythrityle, le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrityle, le dicaprylate de propanediol, le dicaprylate / dicaprate de néopentylglycol, le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate 9 d'isopropyle, le laurate d'hexyle, le mélange de caprate et caprylate de coco, les triglycérides d'acides gras en C8-Cm, et leurs mélanges. Among these oils, such as (poly) esters, mention may especially be made of mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-emollient esters, such as ethyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, acetate of oleyl, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, heptyl undecylenate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate , neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, propanediol dicaprylate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, caprate and coconut caprylate, triglycerides of C8-C18 fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
Des exemples d'huiles végétales sont notamment les huiles de germe de blé, de tournesol, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de maïs, d'abricot, de ricin, de karité, d'avocat, d'olive, de soja, l'huile d'amande douce, de palme, de colza, de coton, de noisette, de macadamia, de jojoba, de luzerne, de pavot, de potimarron, de sésame, de courge, de colza, de cassis, d'onagre, de millet, d'orge, de quinoa, de seigle, de carthame, de bancoulier, de passiflore, de rosier muscat ou de camélia. Examples of vegetable oils include wheat germ, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame, maize, apricot, castor oil, shea butter, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil , millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, rose hip or camellia.
On entend par "huile de silicone", une huile comprenant au moins un atome de silicium, et notamment au moins un groupe Si-0. Comme huile de silicone non volatile, on peut notamment citer les polydiméthyl- siloxanes renfermant au moins 8 atomes de silicium, les polyalkylméthylsiloxane dont la chaîne alkyle renferme de 8 à 20 atomes de carbone et les huiles identifiées par le nom INCI phenyl trimethicone. Comme huiles de silicone volatiles, on peut citer les cyclomethicones ou cyclopolysiloxanes. The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. Non-volatile silicone oils that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least 8 silicon atoms, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes in which the alkyl chain contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and oils identified by the INCI name phenyl trimethicone. As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of cyclomethicones or cyclopolysiloxanes.
On préfère que la composition selon l'invention renferme au moins une huile polaire choisie parmi : les alcools gras ramifiés, tels que l'octyldodécanol et l'alcool cétylique ; les (poly)esters d'hydroxyacides, tels que le malate de diisostéaryle ; et leurs mélanges. 10 Ces huiles peuvent représenter de 30 à 50% du poids de la composition selon l'invention. It is preferred that the composition according to the invention contains at least one polar oil chosen from: branched fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol and cetyl alcohol; hydroxy acid (poly) esters, such as diisostearyl malate; and their mixtures. These oils may represent from 30 to 50% of the weight of the composition according to the invention.
On préfère par ailleurs que cette composition ne renferme pas d'huile apolaire telle que les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, notamment le polybutène, le polyisobutène hydrogéné, les polydécènes, le polydécène hydrogéné, les huiles de paraffines et leurs mélanges. It is also preferred that this composition does not contain apolar oil such as linear or branched hydrocarbons, especially polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecenes, hydrogenated polydecene, paraffin oils and mixtures thereof.
La composition cosmétique selon l'invention peut en outre contenir au moins l'un des constituants suivants : un autre gélifiant ou structurant de phase grasse que la résine glutamide, en particulier au moins un constituant choisi parmi : une cire végétale, animale ou hydrocarbonée ou bien un alcool gras linéaire tel que l'alcool cétylique ou acide gras linéaire tel que l'acide stéarique, une gomme de silicone, un copolymère oléfinique, notamment de type Kraton®, un élastomère de silicone, une résine polyamide ou un polyester de polyol de haut poids moléculaire un agent filmogène, tel qu'une résine de silicone ou une résine hydrocarbonée ; un actif un agent photo-protecteur ou filtre UV organique ou inorganique ; une charge ; un pigment de structure sphérique et/ou lamellaire, organique ou inorganique (tel que la silice, le talc, le mica...), éventuellement traité hydrophobe et/ou lipophobe ; un colorant un parfum un conservateur et leurs mélanges. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one of the following constituents: another fatty phase gelling agent or structurant that the glutamide resin, in particular at least one constituent chosen from: a vegetable, animal or hydrocarbon wax or a linear fatty alcohol such as cetyl alcohol or linear fatty acid such as stearic acid, a silicone gum, an olefinic copolymer, especially of the Kraton® type, a silicone elastomer, a polyamide resin or a polyol polyester, of high molecular weight a film-forming agent, such as a silicone resin or a hydrocarbon resin; an active agent, a photo-protective agent or an organic or inorganic UV filter; a charge; a pigment of spherical and / or lamellar structure, organic or inorganic (such as silica, talc, mica, etc.), optionally hydrophobic and / or lipophobic treated; a dye a perfume a preservative and their mixtures.
Cette composition est habituellement anhydre, c'est-à-dire qu'elle renferme moins de 5% en poids d'eau, voire moins de 1% en poids d'eau. 11 Elle se présente généralement sous forme solide, de préférence sous forme de bâton ou de pain, ou sous forme de gel transparent. This composition is usually anhydrous, that is to say it contains less than 5% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water. It is generally in solid form, preferably in the form of a stick or bread, or in the form of a transparent gel.
Elle peut constituer un produit de soin (y compris d'hygiène) et/ou de maquillage de la peau du visage et/ou du corps et/ou des lèvres. Il peut notamment s'agir d'un produit hydratant, anti-âge (anti-rides et/ou raffermissant), dépigmentant, amincissant, déodorant ou anti-perspirant, d'un rouge à lèvres ou d'un brillant à lèvres, d'un anticernes, ou encore d'un produit de protection contre les UV. It may constitute a care product (including hygiene) and / or makeup of the skin of the face and / or body and / or lips. It may especially be a moisturizing, anti-aging (anti-wrinkle and / or firming), depigmenting, slimming, deodorant or antiperspirant, a lipstick or a lip gloss, a concealer, or a product of protection against UV.
L'invention sera mieux comprise à la lumière des exemples non limitatifs suivants, donnée à des fins d'illustration uniquement. The invention will be better understood in light of the following non-limiting examples, given for illustrative purposes only.
EXEMPLES Exemple 1 : Rouge à lèvres transparent EXAMPLES Example 1: Transparent lipstick
On a préparé, de manière classique pour l'homme du métier, une composition renfermant les constituants identifiés en majuscule dans le Tableau 1 ci-dessous par leur nom INCI (par référence au Dictionnaire CTFA, 13'' Edition, 2010), dans les pourcentages en poids indiqués en regard de ces constituants. A composition comprising the constituents identified in capital letters in Table 1 below by their INCI name (with reference to the CTFA Dictionary, 13th Edition, 2010) was prepared in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art. percentages by weight indicated next to these constituents.
Tableau 1 Constituant Teneur (~) DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL 2,0 GLUTAMIDE 30 DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE 3,0 OCTYLDODECANOL 20,0 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 25,0 DILINOLEIC ACID / Qsp 100% BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER DILINOLEIC ACID / 15,0 PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER TOCOPHÉROL 0,3 Conservateurs Qs Pigments Qs Exemple 2 : Stick anti-perspirant On a préparé, de manière classique pour l'homme du métier, une composition renfermant les constituants identifiés en majuscule dans le Tableau 2 ci-dessous par leur nom INCI (par référence au Dictionnaire CTFA, 13'' Edition, 2010), dans les pourcentages en poids indiqués en regard de ces constituants. Table 1 Constituent Content (~) DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL 2.0 GLUTAMIDE DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE 3.0 OCTYLDODECANOL 20.0 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 25.0 DILINOLEIC ACID / Qsp 100% BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER DILINOLEIC ACID / 15.0 PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER TOCOPHEROL 0.3 Preservatives Qs Pigments Qs Example 2: Anti-perspirant Stick A composition containing the constituents identified in capital letters in Table 2 below by their INCI name (with reference to the CTFA Dictionary) was prepared in a conventional manner for the person skilled in the art. 13th Edition, 2010), in the percentages by weight indicated opposite these constituents.
Tableau 2 Constituant Teneur (~) DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL 2,0 GLUTAMIDE DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE 3,0 CETYL ALCOHOL 20,0 COCONUT ALKANES Qsp 100 DILINOLEIC ACID / 10,0 PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER ALUMINIUM ZIRCONIUM 18,0 TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLY TALC 6,0 LAUROYL LYSINE 0,5 TOCOPHÉROL Qs Exemple 3 : Brillant à lèvres transparent Table 2 Constituent Content (~) DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL 2.0 GLUTAMIDE DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE 3.0 CETYL ALCOHOL 20.0 COCONUT ALKANES QSP 100 DILINOLEIC ACID / 10.0 PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM 18.0 TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLY TALC 6.0 LAUROYL LYSINE 0 TOCOPHEROL Qs Example 3: Transparent lip gloss
On a préparé, de manière classique pour l'homme du métier, une composition renfermant les constituants identifiés en majuscule dans le Tableau 3 ci-dessous par leur nom INCI (par référence au Dictionnaire CTFA, 13'' Edition, 2010), dans les pourcentages en poids indiqués en regard de ces constituants. A composition containing the constituents identified in capital letters in Table 3 below by their INCI name (with reference to the CTFA Dictionary, 13th Edition, 2010) was prepared, in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art, in the percentages by weight indicated next to these constituents.
Tableau 3 Constituant Teneur (~) DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL 0,4 GLUTAMIDE DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE 0,6 OCTYLDODECANOL 5,0 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 20,0 DILINOLEIC ACID / Qsp 100 PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIISOSTEARATE 25,0 TOCOPHÉROL 0,3 Conservateurs Qs Pigments Qs Exemple 4 : Huile Bébé gélifiée biodégradable15 On a préparé, de manière classique pour l'homme du métier, une composition renfermant les constituants identifiés en majuscule dans le Tableau 4 ci-dessous par leur nom INCI (par référence au Dictionnaire CTFA, 13ème Edition, 2010), dans les pourcentages en poids indiqués en regard de ces constituants. Table 3 Constituent Content (~) DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL 0.4 GLUTAMIDE DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE 0.6 OCTYLDODECANOL 5.0 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 20.0 DILINOLEIC ACID / Qsp 100 PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIISOSTEARATE 25.0 TOCOPHEROL 0.3 Preservatives Qs Pigments Qs Example 4: Biodegradable Gelled Baby Oil A composition comprising the constituents identified in capital letters in Table 4 below by their INCI name (with reference to the CTFA Dictionary, 13th Edition) was prepared in a conventional manner for the person skilled in the art. 2010), in the percentages by weight indicated with respect to these constituents.
Tableau 4 Constituant Teneur (~) DILINOLEIC ACID / 15,0 PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE 0,4 OCTYLDODECANOL 5,0 TOCOPHÉROL 0,3 COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) Qsp 100 FRUIT OIL TOCOPHÉROL 0,3 PARFUM Qs Table 4 Constituent Content (~) DILINOLEIC ACID / 15.0 PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE 0.4 OCTYLDODECANOL 5.0 TOCOPHEROL 0.3 COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) Qsp 100 FRUIT OIL TOCOPHEROL 0.3 PERFUME Qs
Claims (12)
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR1155943A FR2977152B1 (en) | 2011-07-01 | 2011-07-01 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYESTER AND A GLUTAMIDE RESIN |
| PCT/FR2012/051490 WO2013004952A1 (en) | 2011-07-01 | 2012-06-28 | Cosmetic composition comprising a polyester and a glutamide resin |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR1155943A FR2977152B1 (en) | 2011-07-01 | 2011-07-01 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYESTER AND A GLUTAMIDE RESIN |
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| FR2977152A1 true FR2977152A1 (en) | 2013-01-04 |
| FR2977152B1 FR2977152B1 (en) | 2013-07-12 |
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| FR1155943A Active FR2977152B1 (en) | 2011-07-01 | 2011-07-01 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYESTER AND A GLUTAMIDE RESIN |
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Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20050191327A1 (en) * | 2003-12-24 | 2005-09-01 | Wei Yu | Cosmetic composition comprising two different hetero polymers and method of using same |
| US7534446B2 (en) * | 2001-07-19 | 2009-05-19 | Intercos Italia Spa | Solid cosmetic |
| US20090280076A1 (en) * | 2008-05-12 | 2009-11-12 | Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd. | Cosmetics having excellent usability and stability and a method for making the same |
| WO2009147089A1 (en) * | 2008-06-02 | 2009-12-10 | L'oreal | Compositions based on polyester in an oily phase and uses thereof |
| FR2943244A1 (en) * | 2009-03-23 | 2010-09-24 | Oreal | Cosmetic composition, useful for makeup and/or care of keratin material such as skin or lips, and as lipstick, comprises association of polar oil with apolar oil, and wax comprising dicarboxylic acid diester and alcohol, in medium |
Family Cites Families (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2816506B1 (en) | 2000-11-16 | 2003-01-10 | Thierry Bernoud | COSMETIC COMPOSITION THICKENED BY POLYAMIDE RESIN |
| US7253249B2 (en) | 2003-04-22 | 2007-08-07 | Arizona Chemical Company | Ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) in personal care products |
-
2011
- 2011-07-01 FR FR1155943A patent/FR2977152B1/en active Active
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Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US7534446B2 (en) * | 2001-07-19 | 2009-05-19 | Intercos Italia Spa | Solid cosmetic |
| US20050191327A1 (en) * | 2003-12-24 | 2005-09-01 | Wei Yu | Cosmetic composition comprising two different hetero polymers and method of using same |
| US20090280076A1 (en) * | 2008-05-12 | 2009-11-12 | Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd. | Cosmetics having excellent usability and stability and a method for making the same |
| WO2009147089A1 (en) * | 2008-06-02 | 2009-12-10 | L'oreal | Compositions based on polyester in an oily phase and uses thereof |
| FR2943244A1 (en) * | 2009-03-23 | 2010-09-24 | Oreal | Cosmetic composition, useful for makeup and/or care of keratin material such as skin or lips, and as lipstick, comprises association of polar oil with apolar oil, and wax comprising dicarboxylic acid diester and alcohol, in medium |
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| WO2013004952A1 (en) | 2013-01-10 |
| FR2977152B1 (en) | 2013-07-12 |
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