FR3089798A1 - Perfuming cosmetic composition in the form of a gum - Google Patents

Abstract

Title: Cosmetic perfuming composition in the form of a gum The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous phase: - at least one fatty acid ester of C8-C22 and of glycerol, - at least one glycol ester of C2- C6 and C6-C30 fatty acid, - at least one lipophilic cellulosic gelling agent, - at least one fatty alcohol liquid at room temperature, and - at least 1% by weight of a perfuming substance relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition having a hardness at 25 ° C of between 45g and 100g. The present invention further relates to a cosmetic process for perfuming human keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

Description

Description

Title of the invention: Perfuming cosmetic composition in the form of a gum

The present invention relates to the field of solid perfume compositions intended to perfume keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the hair.

Human beings have always sought to perfume themselves and to perfume the objects which surround them or the places in which they are located, and this, both to mask strong and / or unpleasant odors and to give a good smell.

It is common to incorporate perfume in a number of products or compositions, in particular cosmetic and dermatological. However, depending on the nature of these products or compositions, it is not always easy to incorporate a particular perfume and / or to retain the desired olfactory effects.

[0004] Furthermore, there are perfuming products intended in particular to perfume the skin and / or the hair. Most perfume products are presented in the form of a liquid, the fragrance of which is dissolved by ethanol. In addition, there are solid alcohol-free perfumes on the market presented in the form of cups, which allow the consumer to offer a new gesture and to be less irritating and non-flammable compared to the alcoholic support. The advantage also of a solid form is to be able to apply perfume to a precise place, which a spray does not always allow, and to avoid possible splashes of the perfume.

The perfuming "solids" constituting the state of the art are anhydrous forms, rich in "waxy fatty substances" (or "perfuming balm") or else forms rich in powder, such as compressed powders. These solid forms are often made with waxes and they can leave a greasy impression when applied to the skin or even stain clothing. In addition, they lack freshness on application. However, more and more, users are looking for an impression of freshness, especially in humid climates.

It is therefore increasingly sought to make perfume sticks comprising an aqueous phase in the greatest possible concentration. However, the incorporation of high percentages of odorous substance in solid compositions comprising a significant aqueous phase can cause problems of stability and lack of cohesion.

Also, there remains the need for new solid compositions comprising, in an aqueous phase a high percentage of odorous substance having good stability properties, as well as a playful and attractive texture.

Furthermore, there also remains the need to have new solid compositions which can be used by direct application to the skin which are comfortable, in particular providing a softness effect on the skin after application, and which also have an effect fresh when applied to the skin.

Thus, the first object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous phase:

- at least one ester of C8-C22 fatty acid and glycerol,

- at least one ester of glycol in C2-C6 and of fatty acid in C6-C30,

- at least one lipophilic cellulosic gelling agent,

- at least one fatty alcohol liquid at room temperature, and

- At least 1% by weight of a perfuming substance relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition having a hardness at 25 ° C of between 45g and 100g.

In addition, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for perfuming human keratin materials and in particular the skin, lips, hair, scalp, nails, comprising the application to keratin materials of the composition as defined above. Definitions

The term "cosmetic composition" means a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a compatible medium (non-toxic) and capable of being applied to keratin materials.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin materials” means the skin and its annexes.

By "the skin" is meant the entire skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, cleavage, neck, arms and forearms.

By “appendices” is meant the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, and the hair, in particular the eyelashes and the hair.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "good stability properties" means a composition which exhibits little or no variation in its organoleptic characteristics (appearance, color, odor, texture, etc.), and / or its viscosity after 1 month at room temperature.

By "solid" is meant a composition which does not flow under the effect of its own weight.

By “rubber texture” is meant a texture characterized by a hardness value at 25 ° C of between 45g and 100g, preferably between 45g and 90g.

The hardness of the composition according to the invention is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 25 ° C using the TA-XTPlus texturometer by the company SWANTECH, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder d '' a diameter of 6 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.5 mm / s, and penetrating into the composition at a penetration depth of 5 mm.

The mobile of the texturometer is moved at the speed of 1 mm / s, then after detection of the surface enters the composition at a speed of 0.5 mm / s until a penetration depth of 5 mm. When the mobile has entered the composition to a depth of 2 mm. Then, the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s.

The hardness value is the maximum compression force measured during the penetration phase, it can be expressed in newton or in grams.

Preferably, the viscosity at 25 ° C of the composition according to the invention is between 5 and 15 Pa.s, preferably between 7 and 14 Pa.s.

The viscosity is measured at 25 ° C using the Rheomat RM180 from Rheometric Scientific at 200 revolutions per minute, 10 minute (s) after the rotation of the mobile M4. Detailed description of the invention

Cosmetic composition

Ester of C8-C22 fatty acid and glycerol

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester of C8-C22 fatty acid and of glycerol.

By "ester of C8-C22 fatty acid and glycerol" means a compound resulting from the esterification formed of one or more fatty acids with glycerol. It can include one, two or three ester bonds.

By "C8-C22 fatty acid" means a linear or branched carboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22, and even better from 16 to 20 atoms of carbon. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid (s) are linear, saturated, and contain from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

The fatty acids can be chosen from caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

In a particular embodiment, the fatty acid ester C8-C22 and glycerol according to the invention can be a mono-, di- or triester of fatty acid C8-C22 and glycerol.

In another particularly preferred embodiment, the C8-C22 fatty acid ester of glycerol according to the invention is in the form:

- i) a mixture of mono- and diesters of C8-C22 fatty acid and glycerol, or

ii) a mixture of mono- and triesters of C8-C22 fatty acid and of glycerol, or

- iii) a mixture of di- and triesters of C8-C22 fatty acid and glycerol, or

- iv) a mixture of mono-, di- and triesters of C8-C22 fatty acid and glycerol.

In particular, the mixture iv) of mono-, di- and triesters of C8-C22 fatty acid and of glycerol comprises:

- from 40% to 55% by weight of C8-C22 fatty acid monoester and of glycerol relative to the total weight of the mixture;

- from 30% to 45% by weight of C8-C22 fatty acid diester and of glycerol relative to the total weight of the mixture; and

- from 5% to 15% by weight of triester of fatty acid C8-C22 and glycerol relative to the total weight of the mixture.

The fatty acids may preferably be chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid, and their mixtures.

Palmitic acid can be present in a concentration of between 47% and 53% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acids, in particular relative to the total weight of palmitic acid and stearic acid.

The stearic acid can be present in a concentration of between 47% and 53% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acids, in particular relative to the total weight of palmitic acid and stearic acid.

Among the fatty acid esters of C8-C22 and glycerol, there may be mentioned the glyceryl stearate marketed under the name DUB GMS 50/50 MB® by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS; or the one marketed under the name CERASYNT SD® by the company ISP (ASHLAND).

The fatty acid esters of C8-C22 and glycerol can be present in the composition according to the invention in a concentration of between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

Ester of C2-C6 glycol and C6-C30 fatty acid

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester of C2-C6 glycol and of C6-C30 fatty acid.

By "C6-C30 fatty acid" means a linear or branched carboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22, and even better from 8 to 18 atoms of carbon.

The fatty acids can be chosen from caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, behenic acid, fatty acids from coconut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the fatty acids are not (poly) hydroxylated.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "glycol" means a diol in which the two hydroxyl groups are carried by different carbon atoms.

The C2-C6 glycols used in the context of the present invention can be chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the glycols are non (poly) oxyalkylenated, in particular non (poly) oxyethylenated and non (poly) oxypropylenated.

By “non (poly) oxyalkylenated glycols” is meant glycols which have not undergone etherification reaction (s) with one (of) (poly) alkylene glycol (s). By way of example, the glycol residues present in the esters of glycol and of C6-C30 fatty acid according to the invention are not polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols

In a preferred embodiment, the C2-C6 glycol esters and fatty acid according to the invention are chosen from non-polyoxyalkylenated C2-C6 glycol esters and saturated fatty acids comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms, C2-C6 non-polyoxyalkylenated glycol esters and of unsaturated fatty acids comprising 18 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

Among the esters of C2-C6 glycol and of C6-C30 fatty acid, mention may be made of butylene glycol cocoate which is an ester of butylene glycol and of coconut oil fatty acid sold under the name COCOATE BG by the company GATTEFOSSE.

The C2-C6 glycol ester and the C6-C30 fatty acid may be present in the composition according to the invention in a concentration of between 0.1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Liquid fatty alcohol at room temperature (25 ° C)

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C).

The fatty alcohol according to the invention preferably comprises a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, even better from 18 to 20 carbon atoms .

The fatty alcohol used in the context of the present invention can be chosen from 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, and their mixtures.

The liquid fatty alcohol may be present in the composition according to the invention in a concentration of between 0.5% and 6% by weight, preferably between 1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cellulose lipophilic gelling agent

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic cellulosic gelling agent.

The term “lipophilic gelling agent” within the meaning of the present invention means a compound capable of gelling the oily compounds present in the composition according to the invention. The lipophilic gelling agent can be liposoluble or lipodispersible at a temperature of 25 ° C.

Advantageously, the lipophilic cellulosic gelling agents used in the context of the present invention are anionic or nonionic.

Among the cellulose lipophilic gelling agents, there are the cellulose ethers and the cellulose esters.

Among the cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkyl (Cl-C4) celluloses such as methylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses, methylethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.

Cellulose ethers are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and EthocelTM® (ethylcellulose) by the company DOW, Benecel® (methylcellulose).

Among the cellulose esters, there are in particular organic cellulose esters such as monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates of cellulose, and mixtures thereof.

The lipophilic cellulosic gelling agent according to the invention may be present in a concentration of between 0.01% and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the C2-C6 glycol ester and the C6-C30 fatty acid, the fatty alcohol liquid at room temperature and the lipophilic cellulosic gelling agent are used as a mixture. Mention may in particular be made of the product sold under the trade name of EMULEREE CBG MB® by the company GATTEEOSSE.

Said mixture comprises in particular between 30% and 40% by weight of said C2-C6 glycol ester and of C6-C30 fatty acid, between 50% and 70% by weight of said fatty alcohol liquid at room temperature and between 1% and 5% by weight of said cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent relative to the total weight of the mixture. In particular, said mixture comprises between 30% and 40% by weight of butylene glycol cocoate, between 50% and 70% by weight of isostearyl alcohol, and between 1% and 5% by weight of ethylcellulose relative to the total weight of the mixed.

Perfuming substance

The composition according to the invention comprises at least 1% by weight of a perfuming substance.

By “perfuming substance” is meant any perfume or aroma capable of perfuming the skin and human keratin materials in general, comprising the skin, the hair, the scalp, the lips, the nails.

The amount of fragrance substance (s) will more preferably be from 2% to 35% by weight, better from 3% to 30%, even better 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As a perfuming substance, one can use in the composition of the invention, perfumes and aromas of natural or synthetic origin and their mixtures. As perfumes and aromas of natural origin, there may be mentioned, for example, extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, ilang-ilang), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petitgrain), of fruits ( coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, acore), wood (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac, pink cedar) , herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum , opopanax).

As a fragrance substance of synthetic origin, mention may be made, for example, of compounds of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, aromatic alcohol and hydrocarbon type.

Mention may in particular be made, as esters, of benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, lemonellyl acetate, lemonellyl formate, l geranyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl-benzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, alkylcyclohexyl propionate, propionate styralyl and benzyl salicylate.

As ethers, mention may be made of benzylethyl ether.

As aldehydes, mention may, for example, be made of linear alkanals containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bud.

As ketones, mention may, for example, be made of ionones such as alpha-isomethylionone and methylcedrylketone.

Among the aromatic and in particular terpene alcohols, mention may be made of anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol.

Mention may in particular be made, as hydrocarbons, of terpenes. These compounds are often in the form of a mixture of two or more of these odorous substances.

In addition, one can also use essential oils, flavor components, such as for example the essences of sage, chamomile, cloves, lemon balm, mint, cinnamon leaves, linden flowers, juniper, vetiver, olibian, galbanum, labolanum and lavandin.

Preferably used as a perfume, alone or as a mixture, the essence of bergamot, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone , cyclamenaldehyde, linalol, ambroxane, indol, hedione, sandelice, lemon, mandarin and orange essences, allylamine glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin essence, l essence of sage, betadamascone, geranium essence, cyclohexyl salicylate, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of different perfuming substances is used which in common generate a pleasant note for the user. Among the known olfactory notes, there may be mentioned for example citrus perfumes, aromatics, floral perfumes, musk, fruity perfumes, spices, oriental perfumes, marine perfumes, aquatic notes, chypre perfumes, perfumes woods, ferns and their mixtures.

Additional compounds

Hydrophilic gelling agent

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

By "hydrophilic gelling agent" is meant within the meaning of the present invention a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention. The hydrophilic gelling agent can be water-soluble or water-dispersible at a temperature of 25 ° C.

Mention may be made, as hydrophilic gelling agent, of xanthan gum, carrageenans, alginate-based compounds, guar gums, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “alginate-based compound” means alginic acid, derivatives of alginic acid and salts of alginic acid (alginates) or of said derivatives.

Among the xanthan gums that may be mentioned, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare® by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANE ™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry) , under the name NOVAXAN ™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CPKelco.

Among the carrageenans, there may be mentioned in particular those sold by the company Seppic under the name of Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the name of Carragel®, Carralact®, and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill, under the names SATIAGEL ™ and SATIAGUM ™, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names GENULACTA®, GENUGEL® and GENUVISCO®.

The alginate compounds suitable for the invention can be represented, for example, by the products sold under the names KELCOSOL®, SATIALGINE ™, CECALGUM ™ or ALGOGEL ™ by the company Cargill products, under the name Protanal ™ by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name GRINDSTED® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name KIMICA ALGIN® by the company KIMICA, and under the names Manucol® and Manugel® by the company ISP.

Among the guar gums that may be mentioned are unmodified nonionic guar gums which are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum

GH®, Vidogum G® and Vidocrem® by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar® by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name VISCOGUMTM by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by Aqualon; non-ionic guar gums modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups such as those sold under the trade names Jaguar HP 60®, Jaguar HP 105® and Jaguar HP 120® (hydroxypropyl guar), by the company Rhodia, or under the name N-Hance® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company AQUALON.

As gellan gum there may be mentioned in particular that sold under the name KELCOGEL CG LA® by the company CP KELCO.

The hydrophilic gelling agent can be used at a rate of 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Emulsifying polymers

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one emulsifying polymer.

By "emulsifying polymer" is intended to denote, within the meaning of the invention, a polymer having amphiphilic properties, that is to say provided with at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part . Hydrophilic groups and hydrophobic groups are well known to those skilled in the art.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" is intended to denote a compound comprising at least two repeating units, in particular at least five repeating units.

A - The modified carboxyvinyl copolymers

Mention may be made, as emulsifying polymers, of the modified carboxyvinyl copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from carboxylic acids containing a, b-ethylenic unsaturation or their esters, with at least one monomer. (b) ethylenically unsaturated comprising a hydrophobic group.

By "copolymers" is meant both the copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers as those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers such as the terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. The term “hydrophobic group or unit” means a radical with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, these copolymers are chosen from copolymers resulting from poly10 merisation:

[0101] - at least one monomer of formula (1) below:

[0102] [Chem.l]

0Η, = Ο-Ο-ΟΗ

R, O

In which, RI denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, that is to say monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid, and

- at least one monomer of the alkyl ester (C10-C30) type of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to the monomer of formula (2) below:

[Chem.2]

CH, = C - C - OR, I II R „O 2

In which, R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (that is to say acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R3 denoting an alkyl radical in C10-C30, and preferably C12-C22.

The alkyl esters (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, 1 ' dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, these polymers are crosslinked.

Among this type of copolymers, use will be made more particularly of polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:

- mainly acrylic acid,

an ester of formula (2) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3, R3 denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and

- a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known polyethylenic unsaturated copolymerizable monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

Among this type of copolymers, use will be made more particularly of those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) ), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinkable polymerizable monomer, or else those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above. Among the above polymers, acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates /

C10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products marketed by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR-1®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382®, Carbopol EDT 2020®, Carbopol Ultrez 20® Polymer and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2®.

B- Amphiphilic AMPS polymers

As emulsifying polymers, mention may also be made of amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid unit (AMPS).

Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) unit can also be called more simply "amphiphilic AMPS polymers". These polymers comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain.

The fatty chain present in said amphiphilic AMPS polymers may preferably contain from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 7 to 22 carbon atoms.

The amphiphilic AMPS polymers are in particular chosen from the amphiphilic polymers of at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer (AMPS) and at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated co-monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part having from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 7 to 22 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

The amphiphilic AMPS polymers generally have a molecular weight by weight ranging from 50,000 to 10,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 100,000 to 8,000,000 g / mol and even more particularly from 100,000 to 7 000 000 g / mol.

They can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

When the amphiphilic AMPS polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Mention may be made, for example, as crosslinking agents, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol-diallylether, polyglycol-diallylethers, triethylene glycol-divinyl ether, hydroquinone-diallyl-ether, di (meth) acrylate. ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allylethyl-ethanolpropylene trimethyl ally le (meth) acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols from the sugar series, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of derivatives of phosphoric acid and / or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds.

The crosslinking agents can be chosen in particular from methylene12 bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA).

The crosslinking rate can vary, for example, from 0.01 to 10% by mole and preferably from 0.2 to 2% by mole relative to the polymer.

The amphiphilic AMPS polymers can in particular be chosen from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 nmonoalkylamine or a di-n-alkylamine such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154.

An amphiphilic polymer used in the context of the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated co-monomer chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures thereof.

In particular, said amphiphilic polymer can comprise at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated co-monomer.

An amphiphilic polymer suitable for the invention can comprise at least one hydrophobic part chosen from linear, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, such as for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n- dodecyl, oleyl, branched such as for example isostearic or cyclic such as for example cyclododecane or adamantane.

A hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated co-monomer of the invention can be chosen preferably from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (1) below:

[Chem12]

R ^a —C · —C ---:

H ₂ I o = c

YR ^fc

In which:

- Ra denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl;

- Y denotes O or NH;

- Rb denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain having from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 7 to 22, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

The hydrophobic radical Rb is chosen from linear C7-C22 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl), branched (for example isostearic) or cyclic (for example cyclododecane or adamantane); C7-C18 alkylperfluorinated radicals (for example the group of formula - (CH2) 2- (CE2) 9-CE3); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester such as cholesteryl hexanoate; aromatic polycyclic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene.

Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are more particularly preferred. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic radical Rb can additionally comprise at least one alkylene oxide unit and preferably a polyoxyalkylenated chain.

The polyoxyalkylenated chain may preferably be made up of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly made up solely of ethylene oxide units.

The number of moles of oxyalkylenated units can generally vary from 1 to

30 moles and more preferably from 1 to 25 moles and even more preferably from 3 to 20 moles.

Among these polymers, there may be mentioned:

- crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-16) alkyl (meth) acrylamide units or of (C8-C16) units ) alkyl (meth) acrylate with respect to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A-0 750 899;

- Terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90% by mole of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10% by mole of AMPS units and from 5 to 80% by mole of n- (C ₆ -Ci ₈ ) alkylacrylamide units, relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent US-A-5,089,578;

- the non-crosslinked copolymers of partially or fully neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl or n-octadecyl methacrylate;

- crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers of partially or fully neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide.

As amphiphilic AMPS polymers, mention may also be made of copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl methacrylate, n-hexadecyl and / or n-octadecyl, as well as copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, uncrosslinked and crosslinked.

Mention will more particularly be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic AMPS copolymers consisting of:

2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) units of formula (4): [0138]

[Chem. 4] tiH ------ C — CHjSOsX

In which X is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion

And of units of formula (5) below:

[Chem.5]

C— € Η. _ύ I

O <CH ₂ CH _; O) h4CH ₂ CH (CH, 'tO) pR ^c

In which n and p, independently of one another denote a number of moles and vary from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 25 and more preferably from 3 to 20 provided that n + p is less or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and better still less than 20; Ra denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl and Rc denotes a linear or branched alkyl comprising from 7 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

In formula (4), the cation X more particularly denotes sodium or ammonium.

Mention may be made, among the monomers of formula (5):

- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and fatty alcohol C10-C18 polyoxethylenated to 8 EO like the product GENAPOL C-080® sold by the company CLARIANT,

- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and of fatty oxoalcohol in Cilia polyoxyethylenated with 8 EO such as the product GENAPOL UD-080® sold by the company CLARIANT,

- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and of C12-C14 polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol with 7 EO, such as the product GENAPOL LA-070® sold by the company CLARIANT,

- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and of C12-C14 polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol with 11 EO, such as the product GENAPOL LA-110® sold by the company CLARIANT,

- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated in C16-C18 with 8 EO like the product GENAPOL T-080® sold by the company CLARIANT,

- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol in C16-C18 at 15 EO like the product GENAPOL T-150® sold by the company CLARIANT,

- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 11 EO like the product GENAPOL Tl 10® sold by the Company CLARIANT, - esters of (meth) acrylic acid and alcohol polyoxyethylenated fatty acid in C16-C18 at 20 EO like the product GENAPOL T-200® sold by the Company CLARIANT, - esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol in C16-C18 at 25 EO like the product GENAPOL T-250® sold by the company CLARIANT, - esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol in C18-C22 at 25 EO and / or polyoxyethylenated fatty isoalcohol in C16-C18 at 25 EO.

We will choose more particularly:

Those non-crosslinked for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, Ra denotes a methyl and Rc represents a mixture of C12-C14 or C16-C18 alkyl,

[0147] those crosslinked for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, Ra denotes methyl and Rc represents a mixture of C16-C18 alkyl.

These polymers are described and synthesized in application EP 1 069 142.

The amphiphilic AMPS polymers can preferably be partially or totally neutralized with an inorganic base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia or an organic base such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol. , N-methyl-glucamine, basic amino acids like T arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They can in particular be totally or practically completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized at least 80%.

The molar concentration in% of the units of formula (2) and of the units of formula (3) in the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention can vary depending on the desired cosmetic application, for example of the nature emulsion (oil-in-water or water-in-oil) and rheological properties of the desired formulation. It can for example vary between 0.1 and 99.9% by moles.

The distribution of the monomers in the amphiphilic AMPS polymers can be, for example, alternating, block (including multiblock) or any.

By way of indication and without this being limiting, mention may be made in particular of the copolymer of AMPS and ethoxylated C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate (non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from Genapol LA-070 and AMPS) (CTLA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer) marketed under the name ARTISTOLLEX LNC by the company Clariant, the copolymer of AMPS and stearyl methacrylate ethoxylated (25 EO) (copolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate Genapol T-250 and AMPS) (CTLA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) marketed under the name ARISTOLLEX HMS by the company Clariant, ARISTOPLEX SNC (ethoxylated AMPS / methacrylate copolymer AMPS / methacrylate C16 / C18 (8 moles EP 80/20; CTLA name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer) and Aristoflex HMB (AMPS / behenyl ethoxyl methacrylate (25 OE), crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triac rylate (TMPTA).

The emulsifying polymers may be present in an amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight in dry matter relative to the weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0, 2 to 1% relative to the weight of the aqueous phase.

[0154] Additional fatty substances

The composition according to the invention can comprise additional liquid fatty substances (oils), solids, alone or as a mixture.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “additional fatty substance” means fatty substances other than the esters of C8-C22 fatty acid and of glycerol, the esters of C2-C6 glycol and of fatty acid C6-C30 and the aforementioned room temperature liquid fatty alcohols.

As additional oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned, for example:

[0158] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, jojoba oils, babassu oils , sunflower, olive, coconut, brazil nut, manda, corn, soy, squash, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia nut, arara, coriander, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those marketed by the company Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, oil shea butter;

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a fatty acid or a fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 29 atoms of carbon, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2- erucate dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxy stearate, diisostearyl malate, triisoketyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrytyl tetraisostearate;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such that oil

Parléam®;

Silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethyl-siloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenyls; and

- their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of the following oils:

The esters resulting from the reaction of at least one fatty acid containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, even better still from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better still from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms,

The diesters of carbonic acid and of fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as that which is marketed under the name CETIOL CC by the company COGNIS,

[0167] - fatty alcohol ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis),

- Glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms such as 2-ethyl hexyl glycerol ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) such as Sensiva SC 50 from the company Schulke & Mayr GmbH.

In a first embodiment, the additional oils are present in the composition according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition.

In a second embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of additional oil.

As additional solid fatty substances, in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned for example:

The solid fatty alcohols capable of being used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated (mono) alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture: lauric or lauryl alcohol (or 1-dodecanol), myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol), cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol), stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol), arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (or 1- tetracosanol), ceramic alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol), myricylic alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

The waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from animal, vegetable, mineral waxes, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon wax, olive wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Lisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

We can thus cite microcrystalline waxes in C2 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petrolatum, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugar cane waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as essential blackcurrant flower wax sold by the company BERTIN (Erance); animal waxes such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and their mixtures.

The fatty acid esters and / or solid fatty alcohol esters which can be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol . Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids can be optionally hydroxylated, and are preferably mono-carboxylic acids.

It is also possible to use the esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri-, alcohols, C2-C26 tetra- or pentahydroxyls.

Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isoketyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, sebaçate diethyl, diisopropyl sebaçate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty acid and / or solid fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl, stearyl; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, especially myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and their mixtures.

The additional solid fatty substances are present in the composition according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and / or organic solvents soluble in water at a temperature of 25 ° C such as polyols.

The composition according to the invention can comprise water in a concentration ranging from 40% to 90% by weight, better from 50% to 80% by weight, even better from 60% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention may comprise an organic solvent soluble in water, chosen for example from mono-alcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, and polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as for example glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol , hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of water-soluble organic solvent can range, for example, from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 0% to 15% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition.

Adjuvants

The composition according to the invention may also include the adjuvants customary in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as coloring matters, of the type of water-soluble pigments or dyes, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, moisturizing active agents. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic treatment method

The present invention further relates to a cosmetic process for perfuming human keratin materials and in particular the skin, lips, hair, scalp, nails, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

The cosmetic treatment process is more particularly a cosmetic process for perfuming the skin and / or the hair comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

In a first embodiment, said application step on keratin materials is carried out by rubbing the composition according to the invention on keratin materials, in particular the skin.

In a second embodiment, said step of application to the keratin materials is carried out by removing the composition with the fingers or using a device. The device can in particular be a spatula.

The examples which follow illustrate the invention, and are given purely by way of non-limiting illustration.

In all that follows, the percentages are given by weight unless otherwise stated.

The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ...", "at least of .." or "at most of" must be understood inclusive, unless the opposite is specified.

The examples and figures which follow are offered by way of illustration and without limitation of the field of the invention.

Examples

The compositions No. 1 and No. 2 were prepared according to the invention.

[0202]

[Tables 1]

Phases INCI names Composition according to invention n ° l (m / m) Composition according to invention n ° 2 (m / m) AT WATER qs 100 qs 100 DYE 0.02 0.02 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (D 0.3 0.3 B GELLANE GUM (2) 1.2 1.2 VS ISOSTEARYL ALCOHOL (and) BUTYLENE GLYCOL COCOATE (and) ETHYLCELLULOSE (3) 5 5 POLYMETHYLENE WAX (4) 17 - CETYL ALCOHOL 1.5 - MYRISTYL MYRISTATE - 3 GLYCERYL STEARATE (5) 2.5 2.5 D PERFUME 10 10 CONSERVATIVE qs qs Hardness at 25 ° C (g) 82.4g 48g

(1) CARBOPOL ULTREZ 20 comprising 90% by weight of ACRYLATES / C10-30

ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER, 5% by weight of TRIDECETH-6 and 5% by weight of PEG-30 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE sold by the company LUBRIZOL;

(2) KELCOGEL CG LA marketed by the company CP KELCO;

(0205) (3) EMULFREE CBG MB comprising 60% by weight of isostearyl alcohol, 37% by weight of butylene glycol cocoate and 3% by weight of ethylcellulose sold by the company GATTEFOSSE;

(4) CIREBELLE 505 sold by the company CIREBELLE;

(0) DUB GMS 50/50 marketed by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS;

Method of manufacturing the composition:

The compositions 1 and 2 were prepared as follows:

- Add in phase A previously heated to 65 ° C the acrylic polymer with stirring.

Introduce the component of phase B.

Add phase C heated beforehand to 65 ° C.

Introduce the compounds of phase D.

Cool to room temperature.

Pour the composition thus obtained into a container.

[0216] Evaluation of the composition:

A) Evaluation of the stability of compositions no. 1 to 2 (according to the invention):

The stability of the two compositions was evaluated by an olfactory (variation of the odor), visual (salting out, phase shift) and viscosity evaluation at T0 and T + 1 month at room temperature (25 ° C).

The results are presented in the table below:

[0220] [Tables2]

Composition No. 1 according to the invention Composition No. 2 according to the invention Olfactory assessment T + lmonth at 25 ° C No denaturing of the odor No denaturing of the odor Visual assessment T + lmonth at 25 ° C Homogeneous, no salting out Homogeneous, no salting out Evaluation of the viscosity (Pa.s) at T24h at 25 ° C 10.6 7.0 Evaluation of the viscosity (Pa.s) at T + 1 month at 25 ° C 8.6 5.2

Conclusion: Compositions 1 and 2 do not present any variations at the olfactory and visual level. Furthermore, the viscosity remains constant over time. Thus, the compositions according to the invention tested have good stability properties.

B) Evaluation of the fresh effect during the application to the skin of compositions no. 1 and 2 (according to the invention):

The evaluation of the fresh effect was carried out by a panel of 3 people.

The compositions were applied according to the following application method: 1 g of each of compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention were applied to 1 cm ² of skin.

The following notation was used: 0: absence of fresh effect; 5: Very fresh.

The results are presented in the table below:

[0227]

[Tables3]

Composition No. 1 according to the invention Composition No. 2 according to the invention Fresh effect 4 5

Conclusion: It has been found that compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention have a very fresh effect when applied to the skin.

C) Evaluation of the softness of the skin after application (comfort) of compositions no. 1 and 2 (according to the invention):

The evaluation of the softness of the skin after application of compositions 1 and 2 was carried out by a panel of 3 people.

The compositions were applied according to the following application method: 1 g of each of compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention were applied to 1 cm ² of skin.

The following notation was used: 0: rough; 5: very soft.

The results are presented in the table below:

[0234] [Tables4]

Composition No. 1 according to the invention Composition No. 2 according to the invention Softness of the skin 4 4

Conclusion: It has been found that compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention, after application to the skin, give the skin good softness.

Claims (1)

Claims [Claim 1] Cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous phase: - at least one ester of C8-C22 fatty acid and glycerol, - at least one ester of glycol in C2-C6 and of fatty acid in C6-C30, - at least one lipophilic cellulosic gelling agent, - at least one fatty alcohol liquid at room temperature, and - at least 1% by weight of a perfuming substance relative to the total weight of the composition; said composition having a hardness at 25 ° C of between 45g and 100g. [Claim 2] Composition according to Claim 1, in which the said C8-C22 fatty acid and glycerol ester is in the form: - a mixture of mono- and diesters of C8-C22 fatty acid and glycerol, or - a mixture of mono- and triesters of C8-C22 fatty acid and glycerol, or - a mixture of di- and triesters of C8-C22 fatty acid and glycerol, or - a mixture of mono-, di- and triesters of C8-C22 fatty acid and glycerol. [Claim 3] Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which said ester of C8-C22 fatty acid and of glycerol is present in a concentration of between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [Claim 4] A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said C2-C6 glycol ester and C6-C30 fatty acid is non (poly) oxyalkylenated. [Claim 5] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said ester of C2-C6 glycol and of C6-C30 fatty acid is present in a concentration of between 0.1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [Claim 6] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said fatty alcohol which is liquid at room temperature comprises a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, even better than 18 to 20 carbon atoms. [Claim 7] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said fatty alcohol liquid at room temperature is present in a concentration of between 0.5% and 6% by weight, preferably between 1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [Claim 8] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said lipophilic cellulose gelling agent is chosen from alkyl (Cl-C4) celluloses such as methylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses and methylethylcelluloses. [Claim 9] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said lipophilic cellulosic gelling agent is present in a concentration of between 0.01% and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [Claim 10] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from xanthan gum, carrageenans, alginate-based compounds, guar gums, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof. [Claim 11] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one additional solid fatty substance chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes, fatty acid esters and / or solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. [Claim 12] Cosmetic process for perfuming human keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials the composition as defined according to claims 1 to 11. FRENCH REPUBLIC